From the Sector

• Circularity at the centre

PG DENIM, the designer project by Paolo Gnutti, is ready for several important events scheduled for the autumn with ground-breaking interpretations and a new – increasingly green – business model. The occasion is its participation in the Blue Zone at Munich Fabric Start (Munich, 3-5 September 2019), a space which is increasingly often reserved for companies and projects with a high innovation rate in the world of denim.

PG DENIM at the German exhibition will be presenting important product innovations, but most notably new concepts developed for the S/S 2021 season. The focus here is on circularity, seen from a dual perspective: the product with the no longer traditional alternation of seasons, and a sustainabilityoriented approach.

Seasons meet

The new PG DENIM approach is geared towards overlapping seasonality, with less and less marked separations between projects dedicated to the spring-summer and fall-winter lines. The collections by PG DENIM can thus be increasingly defined as a “mix of products without seasonality”. Its focal points are innovation alongside the concept behind the initial idea, as opposed to just the season. This trend, explains Paolo Gnutti, CEO and R&D Head at PG DENIM, is also due to registering the fact that seasonality – in terms of environment and trends – is changing at an increasingly rapid pace. As a response to this situation, the choice has been made to design new collections starting from macro-trends and presenting fabrics for garments which are “easy to wear”, suitable for both warm and cold temperatures, in a true melting pot  of weights and sizes.

The lines for the previous season are thus reintroduced and restyled playing with weights and sizes, within a range where flock meets ultra-light fabric bases, or where vinyl is combined with typically summer weights which shift the fabric towards the world of “paper” with crispy touches, resulting in extraordinarily lightweight and strong items at the same time. Also the GARAGE DENIM has been upgraded with fluid and smoothed touched for garments which are easy to wear and have a strong personality.

Partnership with The Denim Window

The PG DENIM season is also enhanced by its partnership in The Denim Window project, which has resulted in a limited series of Creative Capsule Collections, derived from the idea of bringing together companies which had already worked or were working together, trying to highlight – through small capsule collections – the best of what had already been produced by traditional businesses. This has resulted  in three trailblazing capsules, two of which designed in partnership by PG DENIM and companies the likes of M&J Group, Cadica and Greenwear. Several copies of these collections have been made to travel the world, and – after the official presentation in July – they will have a special corner, The Denim Window, in the Bluezone at Munich Fabric Start.

The “Circular Programme” and the five “Rs” of sustainability

Also the PG DENIM approach to accountability in production processes has been enhanced by implementing the “Circular Programme”. As part of our corporate vision, Italian-style production is combined with compliance with what have become known as “the five Rs”, that is to say key concepts underlying the design and manufacturing model: Reduce (everything you are not using), Repair (everything you can), Reuse (anything available to you), Recycle (all that is left), Respect (everything around you).

This is the philosophy underlying each individual process at PG DENIM, and leading to new specific programmes which have been its business focus over the past few months:

1) Reducing the environmental impact during the fabric dyeing phase in reaction and sulphurbased processes, where the use of chemicals has been reduced by 40%, water consumption by 50% and CO2 emissions by 60%, which has also resulted in better penetration and a better result in the crocking process. This has led to producing 10 new articles which will be launched on the market.

2) Recycling all waste from processing and after use, creating a range of garments where cotton is actually obtained from regenerating these two kinds of waste. In this regard, PG DENIM for now is the only company on the market able to process with a percentage of recycled product exceeding 60% of the total, whereas the average for this kind of manufacturing is generally about 35%.

As regards regular production, on the other hand, PG DENIM follows stringent international standards, including Dtox, Reach and Gots in all its processing phases, also using BCI cottons and the Organic Cotton Standard for raw materials. Last but not least, it was recently awarded the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

At Munich Fabric Start, TINTEX introduces a new holistic approach to creating textiles that is built on the company’s DNA since 1998 for market leading, natural based, smart and responsible innovation

TINTEX is a unique fabric expert in materials and processes, and is introducing new levels of service to the market. First with the new Colorau® Natural Dye commercial innovation, and secondly with the TINTEX E-Commerce service that connects creativity with easy, direct-to-designer product sourcing.

The third innovation expands the company vision and influence into garment production with the SMART WARDROBE CO.LAB, a new supply chain cooperation working with three leading Portuguese makers.

But first you come and enjoy the unique touch and feel of the latest TINTEX Naturally Advanced fabrics with on-trend innovations enhanced by the new non-salt Colorau® Natural Dye process. This award-winning coloration technology fuses science, and creative innovation as a responsible evolution of better products that can now supply batches over 20kg.

The new A/W 20/21 collection starts from the concept of “WEME”: a Naturally Advanced offer that represents a multifaceted world. WE and ME refers to more than just the individual, but also about community and a collective spirit that seeks to grow the intellectual and spiritual individual needs in a responsive and collective way. It is a nuanced platform to discover a range of unique developments that embody the TINTEX identity through responsible innovation and creativity. Smart ingredients and processes drive innovation enhanced by the TINTEX unique dyeing and finishing expertise.

The CHTC Fong’s Group is currently making a huge investment in the infrastructure and advanced automation technology required for manufacturing next-generation Industry 4.0 dyeing and finishing machines in China.

Archroma today announced that Vietnam-based Tuong Long Co. Ltd (“Tuong Long”) is the first denim manufacturer in Vietnam to switch 100% of its production to Archroma’s aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo.

Tuong Long Co. Ltd is a textile manufacturer based in Vietnam, whose plant is located near Ho Chi Minh City and employs 600 people producing up to 18,000,000 meters of fabric per year. Tuong Long manufactures and trades woven fabrics, particularly denim and khaki, stretch and non-stretch, for apparel brands in the USA, Japan, Europe, Korea, Taiwan, and Vietnam.

Archroma’s Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liquid dye was first launched in May 2018 as a non-toxic way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans.

During production, some of the aniline stays locked into the indigo pigment and is difficult to wash off the fabric. The remainder of the aniline impurity, approximately 300 metric tons annually, is discharged during dyeing. This can be an issue as aniline is toxic to aquatic life. In addition, exposure levels to factory workers can be high. As a result of its toxicity (more hazardous than alkylphenols) it is now starting to feature on the restricted substance lists (RSL) of some major clothing brands and retailers.

The new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liq was therefore developed as an aniline-free* indigo solution for designers, manufacturers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration.

• Operations, Product Development, Sales and Technical Support Growth

Celine Huang 黄秀蔚 is named Chief Executive Officer for HeiQ Greater China and Ming Wen Liang 梁銘文is named Chief Executive Officer HeiQ Taiwan. Huang, with her background as a general manager of a large player in the same industry brings a total of over 20 years of solid testing lab, agent and country strategies management expertise with an excellent relationship skills with customers, distributors, dealers and end users. She has a chemical engineering degree in dyeing and finishing from China Textile University. Huang has worked in both Australia and China in senior management positions. Huang will lead the group’s Greater China business from the newly created Shanghai office (瑞士海屹科新材料有限公司上海办事处).

Liang will manage mill relations, technical support and distribution at HeiQ Taiwan. She brings close to 20 years of experience in textile and garment production supply chain focusing on sales, material innovation and development, sourcing and production. Liang holds a Bachelor of International Trade from the National Taipei University of Business, Taiwan, speaks Chinese, English and Spanish and has lived in both Taiwan and Argentina. And will be based in the new office in Taipei (瑞士海屹科有限公司).

HeiQ continues to increase its global footprint with the creation of HeiQ Shanghai and HeiQ Taiwan. In addition to HeiQ Hong Kong, these offices aim to provide dedicated technical support in the Greater China area, further broaden its geographical reach in strategic locations and support HeiQ’s brand partners’ manufacturing activities in the region.

STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION, renowned as “Africa’s No. 1 Trade Fair for textile industries”, is gathering Over 1,200 exhibitors from more than 40 countries; with almost 90% of the available space already booked. The trade fair will occupy a space of 50,000 m² of exhibition space, and more than 40,000 trade visitors, delegates and buyers from all over the African continent are expected to attend the event.

STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION will feature the new concept of organizing two consecutive trade fairs; The first trade fair is dedicated to garment processing technologies including Sewing, Embroidery, Fabrics and their Accessories; While the second is dedicated to textile processing technologies including Weaving, Spinning, Knitting, and Dyeing Machinery, Technologies and Spare Parts; The two events are held under the giant brand STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION; and will be held in the prestigious venue Cairo International Conventions and Exhibitions Center- Egypt during the period 27 February - 1 March 2020 and 5 - 8 March 2020 successively.

For eight days, the brightest minds of the textiles technologies business will meet in Cairo to demonstrate the latest industrial know-hows; discuss up-to-date tendencies and set the perception for the future. STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION calls attention to its superior ranking not only through its prominence with the global industry but also by addressing the current challenges being the performance scale for the entire value chain of the African textile industries Bustling, energetic and wide-ranging, STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION is a premium multi-format event with a distinct commercial and business identity; where cutting-edge technologies, products, services and turnkey solutions are provided by global strategic players and technology makers to serve the ever - growing evolving textile markets of Africa.

imogo is a new Swedish company formed by a team with long experience in textile processing technology. It is now boldly aiming to change the face of the textile manufacturing industry with its new Dye-Max spray dyeing technology, to be introduced to the market at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona.

While still at the prototype stage, and with a first full-scale line currently under construction and due to be demonstrated this Autumn before delivery, the DyeMax nevertheless promises to slash the use of fresh water, waste water, energy and chemicals by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems.

Spray cassettes
Its application unit consists of a closed chamber containing a series of spray cassettes with precision nozzles for accurate and consistent coverage, in combination with the patented imogo pro speed valve that controls the volume to be applied. The chamber is equipped with an exhaust system and droplet separator to ensure that the environment around the unit is free from particles.

“The spray cassettes are a key part in the Dye-Max line,” explains Imogo’s founding partner Per Stenflo. “There is one set of spray cassettes for each of the three separate dye dispersion feed lines and they can be easily exchanged without the need for tools in less than a minute. This allows for extremely fast changeovers between different colours without the need for cleaning. And because the spray cassettes are removable, all maintenance can be performed off line. 
After applying the dye dispersion the fabric is rolled onto a shaft and moved to the autoclave for deep dye fixation via heat and pressure.”

The savings in treatment water the Dye-Max achieves are due to the extremely low liquor ratio of 0.5 litres per kilo of fabric Stenflo adds. 

“At the same time, the low liquor ratio and the spray process require considerably less auxiliary chemistry to start with, and all of it is used in the process, which also greatly reduces the production of waste water, with only 20 litres being required for wash at changeovers. The low liquid content in the fabric meanwhile minimises the energy needed for fixation.”

The Dye-Max has a working speed of up to 50m/min with the practical speed determined by the fabric weight and application volume. 
 

STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION 2020; will feature the new concept of organizing two consecutive trade fairs; The first trade fair is dedicated to garment processing technologies including Sewing, Embroidery, Fabrics and their Accessories; While the second is dedicated to textile processing technologies including Weaving, Spinning, Knitting, and Dyeing Machinery, Technologies and Spare Parts; The two events are held under the giant brand STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION.

Set to establish a tangible uprising in motivating employment, inspiring skill development, stirring entrepreneurship in the textiles business segment, achieving economic development and thus conveying new ambitions for younger generations of the African continent, the 2 editions of STITCH & TEX EXPO – AFRICA EDITION 2020 is to be held in the prestigious venue Cairo International Conventions and Exhibitions Center-Egypt during the period February 27th till March 1st 2020 and from 5 till 8 March 2020 consecutively.

TINTEX Textiles presents new exemplary concepts based on a continuous textile research for responsible, ethical-minded fashions. It is born out of heritage and passion to use only good materials and the finest finishing techniques for better textiles in the best spirit of its unique Portuguese culture.

The new S/S 2020 collection starts from the concept of “UNO”: a full Naturally Advanced offer that is gathered together under one emblematic cultural standard, one that refers to unity as a result of the revolutionary generation in a society that embraces uniqueness and differentiation. UNO stands for unification, cross-fertilization, inclusion, just like an orchestra playing in concert with the same purpose. It is the perfect chance to discover a range of unique developments that truly embody the company’s identity, balancing responsible innovation and creativity. Smart ingredients take the lead being enhanced by the TINTEX unique dyeing and finishing expertise.

Starting from the “UNO is…embrace yourself” concept, a unique range of natural fibres are blended with technical qualities for new levels of wellbeing performance. Shirt structures, timeless jerseys and interlocks are born from the transformed polyamide Q-NOVA® by Fulgar with excellent moisture control, and from SeaCell™, that embodies the unique properties of seaweed combined with the unique ROICA™ CF (Clean Fit), a unique odor neutralizing premium stretch yarn by Asahi Kasei.

Do not miss the perfect opportunity to experience the new Naturally Advanced solutions by TINTEX Textiles. A great chance to touch and feel, that is also the best way to get to know something more on the wide range of fabrics that embody responsible innovation and creativity. Smart ingredients take the lead being enhanced by the unique TINTEX’s dyeing and finishing expertise. The seasonal collection that fuses science and innovation, leading the way towards a more conscious evolution is to be presented at Munich Fabric Start.

TINTEX, driven by its strong DNA toward responsible innovation, take the chance to be at Munich Fabric Start to introduce a brand new project who has born in Germany and is now flying at international level thanks to a group of pioneers key players who are implementing it. A unique initiative called THE BLUE LAB, created by the NGO Drip by Drip aimed at developing alternative textile solutions with the lowest possible water footprint, in collaboration with a network of participants. Among the key partners, Lenzing that provides the fibers, Tearfil supplying the yarn, TINTEX realizing the fabrics, Blue Ben creating the garments, Montebelo that works closely with brands, organizations and manufacturers to create responsible fashion products and with Agroho the non-profit organization that is working for marginalized communities in Bangladesh.