From the Sector

Marion Haerty – Following a high-octane run in the season’s second-to-last stop in Andorra, Marion Haerty had secured her title of World Champion even before taking place in the final and infamous Xtreme Verbier.

Victor de le Rue – Under his brother Xavier’s scrutinizing and fatherly eye, pressure was on for the groundbreaking rookie.

Markus Eder – An incredible feat in snowsports, skiers then had one shot each at descending the face littered with cliffs, pillows and other natural features.

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Techtextil 2019: Schoeller launches its new finishing technology called NanoSphere® Plus. The special effect of this new development is its protection against fingerprints and greasy stains. Furthermore, even after being absorbed by the fabric stains are quickly and easily wiped away without washing.

Every human being leaves its marks. In particular, on daily-use items that are picked up or touched often. Especially on textile surfaces, hand and fingerprints in combination with dirt and dust particles leave an unpleasant, greasy dirt film, which is very difficult to clean.

NanoSphere® Plus, developed by Schoeller Technologies AG, the business unit for technologies at Schoeller Textil AG, works on the basis of a functional chain. Textiles are equipped with a matrix finish to reduce the capillary effect in the textile’s fibers. Especially unpleasant sebum residues and dirt that are often released by finger and handprints are less absorbed by the fabric and can be easily wiped away.

Beside the excellent protection against finger and handprints, textiles with NanoSphere® Plus are additionally water and oil repellent, abrasion resistant and extremely durable. The finishing technology rarely affects the look or feel of the fabric.

Non-washable textiles that are often touched by hands or fingers, or fabrics that are in direct contact with the skin benefit most from this new technology. Therefore, NanoSphere® Plus is ideal for woven fabrics and synthetic leather or synthetic suede for bags, covers of electronical devices, head phones, loud speakers or other items in the field of interior equipment.

On March 7th, European Commissioner on the Internal Market, Industry, Entrepreneurship and Small and Medium-Sized Enterprises has been welcomed in Prato by the mayor Matteo Bittoni and by the Councilor for Productive Activities Daniela Toccafondi, together with the economic categories for a meeting organized by the Department of Economic Development with reference to the Fashion System.

By the end of the meeting, the only company visit planned has followed, and brought to the Manteco headquarter. Manteco is a firm leader in the production of wool and recycled fabrics since 1943.  Today led by Matteo and Marco Mantellassi, Manteco is able to value territory, sharing economy, sustainability, internationalization and the use of renewable energies – not only as an investment policy but also as a distinctive element for the identification of the company as an international reference point for the fashion textile sector.

The company visit was attended by European Commissioner Elzbieta Bienkowska, Justina Morek, member of the Commissioner's Cabinet, Beatrice Covassi, director of the Representation of the European Commission in Rome, Slawomir Tokarski, director for advanced and innovative manufacturing in the general direction of the internal market and European Commission industry, MEP Hon. Nicola Danti, dr. Alberto Biginelli, Councilor Daniela Toccafondi; The Mayor of Prato Matteo Bittoni, the Mayor of the Municipality of Montemurlo, Mauro Lorenzini.

The key topic of the meeting has been the circular economy  – that is to consider very close to Manteco – along with some others explored such as the value of Made in Italy, the importance of a responsible approach to reuse and the need for a traceability system. Noteworthy the visit to the Manteco Archive, during which the focus has been on raw materials, with reference to the tradition and experience that today are perfectly combined with the strong innovative drive and creativity. Upon request of the European Commissioner, the corporate approach with a view to circular economy, km0 production system and how it fits into the productive district were also dealt with.
 
«I visited a textile company that recycles or reuses waste materials to produce wool of the highest quality: this is an excellent example of circular economy. The circular economy is an extremely interesting subject everywhere in Europe, because we are leaders in sustainability, and we want our children and ourselves to be able to live in a country that is livable in the future, so that's why it is worthwhile to show stories in Europe of success like this, which is a good practice that we are putting into practice, starting with the big industries and the energy-intensive ones » - Elzbieta Bienkowska -

• Patented technology with bluesign®, ECO PASSPORT, and Skin Friendly certification

Polyester sport and functional textiles treated with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 are protected against “permastink”. Already a holder of the Swiss Technology Award, the Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 odor-management technology can now carry the bluesign® sustainability label, the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and the ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. SANITIZED AG has been a bluesign® system partner for over 10 years.

An unwelcome odor can quickly develop in polyester sport and functional clothing, even if freshly washed. This is “permastink”. It’s a challenge to the textile industry as it generally reduces the attractiveness and market opportunities of sport and functional clothing made from polyester.

The patented, non-biocidal Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 technology provides specific solutions and sales arguments for the end products. It works in two ways: The odor-causing bacteria can’t stick to the textile surface and are washed out completely in a normal wash cycle. This is due to the anti-adhesive “coating” applied in the padding process. This effect has been proven in a test procedure developed in cooperation with EMPA (Swiss Federal Laboratories for Material Science and Technology). Secondly, the treatment has an adsorbing effect. The odors are “trapped” and repeatedly expelled during a normal wash cycle.

No binder, no nano
Another characteristic: The treatment with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 doesn’t apply an additional binder system. As with all of our products, SANITZED AG uses no nano technology. The safety and tolerability have been confirmed by the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. These have now been joined by the bluesign® accreditation.

Denim Expert Ltd. are very proud that they have been accepted to join as a contributor to the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Foundation, The ZDHC missions is to enable brands in the textile, apparel, and footwear industries to implement chemical management best practices and advance towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals by collaborative Engagement, Standard Setting and Implementation.

The main goals are set to eliminate priority hazardous chemicals in products and their manufacture, implement a transparent screening process to promote safer chemistry, implement common tools, best practices and training that advance chemical stewardship, partner with stakeholders to promote transparency of chemical usage and discharge and promote scaling of best practices through engagement with key stakeholders.
 
Under the guidance of the ZDHC Foundation, Denim Expert Ltd. have adopted various initiatives to ensure the zero discharge of hazardous chemicals, including:

• The establishment of traffic signals in the chemical store-room to aid in the safe storage of chemical product.
• The mandatory use of protective gloves when handling chemicals.
• The introduction of a chemical compatibility chart to ensure safe storage of chemicals and highlight their risk factor.
• Visible posting of Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) enabling close follow-up of chemical use.
• The installation of the appropriate ventilation and  temperature control in the chemical storage area.
• Establishment of an emergency response plan, with any potential chemical spillage being monitored by a specially trained technical representative.
• Clear labelling on all chemicals following ZDHC guidance.
• Strict adhesion by all employees to the chemical inventory list.
• Allocation of a designated area for chemical waste disposal and treatment.

With its membership of the ZDHC, Denim Expert Ltd. joins more than 24 signatory brands, 59 value chain affiliates, and 15 associates (including Adidas, Benetton, BURBERRY, C&A, COOP, ESPRIT, Gap Inc. , G-STAR RAW, H&M,INDITEX, Jack Wolfskin, Lbrands, LEVI STRAUSS & CO, LI-NING, MARKS & SPENCER, Hugo Boss, Nike, Primark, Puma, PVH, Target)  who are collectively working together to support implementation of safer chemical management practices.

TRSA recently held its Annual Membership Meeting for the nomination, election and swearing-in of new Officers and Directors.
Jim Buik, president of the Roscoe Co. in Chicago is TRSA’s new chairman. Buik served as vice chairman of TRSA in 2017-2018. The Roscoe Company is Chicago’s leading independent uniform service company.

Jim has been active in linen, uniform and facility services associations. He’s a graduate of TRSA’s Executive Management Institute (EMI). He served on various committees, task forces and boards and was chairman of UTSA, which blended with TRSA, from 2003 to 2005. He has been a pioneer of industry technologies and best practices. Through association programs he has shared Roscoe’s experience in developing these innovations, including marketing automation, wastewater treatment and employee skill certification.

Additional officers and directors sworn in at the meeting:
•    Noel Richardson, Officer-Vice Chair, Shasta Linen Supply, Sacramento, CA
•    Jim Kearns, Officer-Treasurer, Alsco Inc., Salt Lake City
•    Bob Dudley, Director, APPEARA, Norfolk, NE
•    Scott Finkelstein, Director, Ace Uniform Services Inc., Baltimore
•    Dan Sanchez, Director, Medline Industries Inc., Mundelein, IL

In addition, Directors Randy Bartsch, Ecotex Healthcare Linen Service and P.J. Dempsey, Dempsey Uniform & Linen Supply were re-elected for second terms and will be officers serving on the TRSA Executive Committee.

ERIC PIERREJEAN, CEO OF JEC GROUP

Mr. Eric PIERREJEAN, who joined the company in January, has been appointed Chief Executive Officer, succeeding to Mrs. Frédérique MUTEL. He will be in charge of the further development of the company after two decades of growth under Mrs. MUTEL leadership, dedicated to the development and the promotion of the composite materials industry. Before joining JEC Group, Eric PIERREJEAN was Division General Manager at Comexposium from 2011 to 2017. Prior to this, he spent much of his career in sales and marketing positions, spending more than 15 years in the automotive sector (BMW Group, Land Rover) as well as in the sports goods industry (Nike).

ADELINE LARROQUE, EVENTS DIRECTOR FOR EMEA

Mrs. Adeline LARROQUE joins JEC Group as Show Director JEC World and EMEA Events with more than 15 years of Global work experience as she has worked in several countries such as USA, UK, China, India, Qatar and UAE where she has developed a strong skill set in exhibitions and events management. After a successful experience at Reed Exhibitions France and China managing numerous exhibitions in the Aerospace, Material, Security, Maritime, Logistics, Construction and Medical industries, she then worked for Qatar Tourism Authority as Head of Exhibitions driving growth for the Doha Jewellery Show, Qatar Motor Show and Women Fashion exhibitions. Lately, she worked for the Events division of the Daily Mail Group supervising the Abu Dhabi International Petroleum Exhibition and Conference as Event Director.

• Italian expertise, research and green innovation.
• METALBOTTONI ups the stakes with one-of-a-kind interpretations, to enhance its market presence.

At Première Vision Accessories (Paris, 19-21 September) the company presents the new collection VÀNITA, a mix of leatherwear and sportswear, based on Made in Italy craft, with an increasingly wide and coordinated range.

Based on product experience, combining new trends in accessories. The METALBOTTONI strategy is enriched with product novelties which aim at exploring new existing market segments. A strategy which increasingly leads great artisan production skills to meet constant research and expansion of the range, with the world of sportswear becoming more and more pivotal; without forgetting the important sustainable innovations of the NO IMPACT protocol.

No Impact becomes “Committed Accessories”

The guideline for restyling the METALBOTTONI range over the past two years has been the recent implementation of the NO IMPACT corporate sustainability protocol, which has just acquired a new “dress”, associated with the following pay-off: “Committed Accessories”. It is a way of underscoring the constant green development of the company over the past few years, in terms of process and product: use of recycled raw materials, development of finishing without chemicals, implementation of processes which today have allowed to reduce electricity and water consumption to almost zero.

Moreover the range of NO IMPACT proposals for this season has expanded to include not only new metal finishing but also leather label completely made from processing scrap, thus establishing Metalbottoni as “partner for branding elements” also in terms of sustainability. Pure Made in Italy and constant expansion of collections towards sportswear The great skill in metal processing, which for sixty years now has characterised the top-of-the-range quality of METALBOTTONI products, is now combined with constant research work conducted by our in-house Style Office, resulting in new collections which are more and more in line with the trends emerging from major trade fairs. Maintaining a presence on strong markets (central Europe, Northern Europe and United States), increasing the depth of segments and intercepting new ones. This is the main goal also chosen for the Première Vision Accessories Exhibition where, alongside the autumn-winter 2019/2020 collections, there will be a preview of VÀNITA, the new collection dedicated to leatherwear and more.

METALBOTTONI is proving to be one of the most dynamic companies in the accessory industry.

Over the past two years, in fact, it has introduced numerous product and process innovations, aiming at increasing its range especially as regards sportswear accessories. This trend was driven by a substantial increase in demand by read-to-wear and luxury brands in the past two seasons, and today it means new proposals which account for 35% of the range for METALBOTTONI. New collections have been presented in the past two seasons expressly dedicated to the sportswear world, namely GRAVITA, the first line designed by the company for pressure buttons, and MÀRYA, the new beachwear collection. Also the line called LABORA, the classic collection of accessories for fashion and ready-to-wear has been constantly enhanced with proposals combining style and technical performance. This mix of fashion and sport elements is increasingly evident in the company’s product range, for example in the combination of different materials, using metal with nylon or other resins to create new and unique accessories.

Vànita: beyond leatherwear, a world of accessories

The meeting between fashion, luxury and sportswear has produced VÀNITA, the brand new collection which presents a new approach to accessories dedicated to leatherwear, from an allround perspective from luxury to sportswear. Developed starting from solid product research by the company’s in-house Style Office, VÀNITA is a true meeting of styles and elements, a combination of high product standards with unique elegance. This line introduces one-of-a-kind visions for accessories, exploring highly original pathways dedicated to the world of leather. The VÀNITA proposal ranges from accessories for leatherwear and small leatherwear, to those for shoes, bags and the sportswear worlds. There are two main lines within this collection: one is expressly designed for the world of luxury, the other has a more technical and sporty approach. A true mix between artisan metal processing, based on the great METALBOTTONI expertise in this sector, and “ingredients” such as nylon, rubber finishes or innovative 3D processing, which are often combined together.

“Our goal is to offer an increasingly comprehensive range which allows us to explore new segments on the markets where we are present” - says Gregorio Valli, CEO and President of METALBOTTONI S.P.A – “a ‘recipe’ which should be able to integrate our unmatched product expertise with a constant expansion of our range and continuous implementation of our pathway towards corporate responsibility and sustainability”.

Aachen researchers have developed the adaptive textile facade green.fACade, which was presented on 2^nd August 2018 in the Aachen Faculty of Architecture of RWTH Aachen University, Germany. green.fACade is installed in front of a building like a second skin and can permanently reduce nitrogen oxide pollution in cities.

The researchers achieve the reduction of harmful nitrogen oxides (NO and NO2) by coating the facade with titanium dioxide. Titanium dioxide acts as a photo catalyst and enables the oxidation of nitrogen oxides to form washable nitrate (NO3-). Since the facade is also greened, it contributes to the conversion of carbon dioxide into oxygen by photosynthesis. In addition, a green facade creates an optical resting point in the cityscape and reduces urban heat through evaporation cooling. The enclosed pictures demonstrate how the introduction of green.fACade can have an effect. Picture 1 shows the Aachen Central Bus Station after, picture 2 before the possible introduction of green.fACade.

green.fACade is part of the innovative research project "adaptive textile facades", which uses the special properties of textiles. Thanks to its design, textiles can let sunlight and air through, thus contributing to a modern, aesthetic building design. A new feature of the research project is that further elements such as the titanium oxide coating or sun protection elements are integrated into the textile facade and placed in front of the existing building facade. The adaptive textile facade acts independently and thus reduces energy consumption through the positive climatic effects on the building facade.

"Adaptive Textile Facade" is part of a current research series with the aim of developing innovative facade constructions that are climate-neutral and increase the comfort of local residents. The research team consists of the three RWTH fields of architecture (Faculty of Architecture, PhD student architect M.Sc. Jan Serode), medicine (University Hospital RWTH Aachen, Clinic for Ophthalmology, Prof. Dr Walter) and textile technology (Institut für Textiltechnik, Prof. Dr Gries) and was able to contribute its expertise in the best possible way.

This summer the research team was supported for the first time by the Munich architectural office Auer Weber, represented by managing director Philipp Auer: "For us architects, developments in the field of textile outer shells are a special challenge. Here, highly developed textile materials and processing methods are combined with the lightness and grace of fabrics. Adaptive textile facade elements will increasingly turn the "building shell" into a "building skin", a system that not only offers weather, heat and sun protection, but is in constant intelligent exchange with its environment".

The great importance of these topics for the public was documented by the presence of Kirsten Roßels, representative of the Department of Economics, Science and Europe of the city of Aachen.  Ms Roßels explains: "As the city of Aachen, we are delighted with the innovative and future-oriented project ideas that are being developed at Aachen University, such as the adaptive textile facade. These developments underline the importance of Aachen as a city of science and I would appreciate it if these and other technologies could also become visible in Aachen in the future".

Prof. Dr Gries from the Institut für Textiltechnik sums up: "As textile researchers, we see a great opportunity to develop concrete solutions for our urban living spaces together with renowned experts from other disciplines. I'm sure we can make the urban climate more pleasant and reduce pollution."

Asia’s largest biennial event for the entire technical textiles and nonwovens sector will feature some of the industry’s biggest overseas machinery brands. Held on the earlier date of 4 – 6 September this year, the fair will feature an expected 500-plus total exhibitors from around 20 countries & regions.

As the world’s largest producer of technical textiles and nonwovens, China’s demand for production machinery is insatiable. As such, this September’s Cinte Techtextil China has attracted some of the world’s leading machinery brands, particularly in the nonwovens and sewing machinery sectors, ensuring a wide range of sourcing options for both domestic and international buyers.

Overseas producers respond to strong Chinese demand
As the Chinese domestic and export markets’ demand for quality technical textiles and nonwovens products continues to increase, overseas machinery brands continue to enter the country, using Cinte Techtextil China as their starting-out platform. ANDRITZ Nonwoven is just one of those who see the growing potential. “Chinese nonwovens manufacturers are increasingly requiring higher capacities and top-class quality for their nonwovens products for local and export markets,” Mr Laurent Jallat explained. “China is the biggest market in terms of installed capacity, and shows quite promising potential for the future. In the past years, we’ve seen rapid growth in products such as disposable face masks.” ANDRITZ responds to this demand with their neXline spunlace eXcelle line which features state-of-the-art TT card web forming and JetlaceEssentiel hydro entanglement units for high capacity and speed.

The DiloGroup also report an increase in demand for their products in China. “China is one of our biggest markets,” explains Mr Dominik Foshag. “We have procured huge orders from China, as Chinese customers are considering German technology more frequently nowadays. The visitor quality of Cinte Techtextil has been very good in this past, and we think this year’s fair will be also successful as we know many of our customers are going to visit.”

Oerlikon will introduce its spunbond technology to the Chinese market this year, and is expecting to conclude initial contracts at the fair due to increased demand for overseas products. “The Chinese market for nonwovens products is by far the largest and fastest growing national market. Chinese manufacturers are no longer satisfied with lower product quality, but want to exceed Western quality levels, for example. The products must now meet stricter customer requirements and legal standards, some of which are significantly higher than other international standards,” Ms Lena Kachelmaier said.

Truetzschler Nonwovens has also noticed this trend. Ms Jutta Stehr commented: “In the last two or three years, China became one of the pacemakers in the field of nonwovens used in beauty, skin care and hygiene applications. Asian markets have set new standards concerning quality in nonwovens. For instance, making disposable wipes from cotton fibres is a trend originating in Asia. The luxurious feeling of cotton combined with the requirement for eco-friendly products will further drive demand in China and elsewhere. Accordingly, Truetzschler Nonwovens anticipates more inquiries at Cinte Techtextil for its proven carding and spunlacing solutions for cotton nonwovens.”

Weaving machine supplier Itema has also noticed strong demand in China for products made in Italy. “Generally speaking, and especially for technical fabrics, imported machinery is highly evaluated and appreciated by Chinese customers. In recent years, Itema experienced significant growth in the sale of its Made-in-Italy weaving machines in China, and in other APAC countries. Imported machines are synonymous with quality and reliability, and we believe this positive trend will be constant in the future,” Mr Matteo De Micheli outlined.

Weaving machinery exhibitor highlights

• ANDRITZ Nonwoven: their specialty is technologies for drylaid, wetlaid, spunbond, spunlace, needlepunch and textile calendering. At Cinte Techtextil, they will highlight their aXcess product portfolio, which has been especially designed for medium-capacity production. ANDRITZ has developed this range to fit the demands of producers with medium-capacity requirements, particularly in emerging markets. It includes lines and individual machines for needlepunch, spunlace, wetlaid and calendering processes.
• Autefa Solutions: visitors to their booth will experience the company’s expertise as a full line supplier for carded- crosslapped needlepunch lines, aerodynamic web forming technology, spunlace and thermobonding lines. Their nonwovens lines meet customers’ requirements for quality web formation, bonding, active weight regulation and minimal maintenance.
• DILO Systems: a leader in the field of staple fibre nonwoven production lines, DiloGroup will present their latest developments at the fair, including staple fibre production lines, card feeding and cards and crosslappers & needlelooms.
• Oerlikon: they will showcase spunbond solution lines for the production of polypropylene geotextiles. According to the company, spunbond geotextile applications are on the rise as the market is increasingly demanding more efficient processes and products, which means the product requirements are often the same or greater, but with a lower raw material input. Spunbonds are progressively replacing classical carded nonwovens due to their technical and commercial benefits.
• Truetzschler Nonwovens: concentrating on solutions for producing a broad range of hygiene nonwovens including wipes at the fair, they will focus on thermobonding & spunlacing processes and the respective machinery, from fibre preparation down to winding.

Sewing machinery exhibitor highlights

• Itema: making their debut at Cinte Techtextil, they are a leading supplier of weaving machines for technical fabrics production. According to the company, they are the only weaving machine producer to offer technical textile manufacturers the top three technologies for weft insertion: Rapier, Projectile and Airjet.
• Picanol: they use their leading position as producers of weaving machines for other textile products to expand into machines for woven technical textiles by investing heavily in state-of-the-art technology, as well through the modular design of their machine platforms which allow them to serve different industry sectors effectively.
• Lindauer Dornier: featuring in the German Pavilion this edition, they offer a number of weaving machine varieties including rapier, air-jet, open reed weave (ORW) and more. Their rapier weaving machines have set the technological standard in the high quality wool textiles market for decades, and this quality will be on display at their booth with the DORNIER P1 rapier weaving machine.

Domestic brands to watch out for

In addition to these leading overseas brands, a strong line-up of Chinese machinery producers will also feature at the fair, including Changshu Weicheng Non-Woven Equipment and Shijiazhuang Textile Machinery.