From the Sector

By establishing touchpoint textile, drupa has created a special forum to showcase pioneering applications in digital textile printing. The highlight will be the Digital Textile Micro Factory – a fully connected, integrated process chain starting with the customer enquiry and design through to large-format digital textile printing.

touchpoint textile represents drupa’s growing expansion into new markets comprising such segments as packaging production, large-format or industrial and functional printing next to packaging production. All of these segments are undergoing the same transformation processes and offer enormous growth potential. The special forum revolves around the opportunities and challenges of digital textile printing, brings together renowned exhibitors, industry partners and brand owners and provides scope for cross-industry cooperation, new projects as well as product and manufacturing ideas. The operational content partners of touchpoint textile include the German Institutes for Textile and Fibre Research Denkendorf (DITF), as Europe’s largest textile research centre, as well as ESMA, the European Specialist Printing Manufacturers Association.

Digital Textile Micro Factory: on-demand and virtual products – on the path towards sustainable production
In cooperation with 12 partners from industry and research the DITF will demonstrate a Digital Textile Micro Factory live at drupa and, hence, a fully connected, integrated process chain from design to finished product. This will present new possibilities for digitalisation and direct customer involvement, for instance in the form of 3D apparel simulations complete with links to design networks for creative input. Digital workflows and virtual products are integrated directly in the manufacturing process. As a special highlight for all trade visitors the technology partners of this Micro Factory will demonstrate an automated on-demand production, textile printing, cutting and sorting – without any manual interaction. Such decentralised and digitally connected design and production chains will enable the textile industry to respond to customers’ requests and trends in a more targeted manner in future. This means, touchpoint textile 2024 technologically points the way to a future without shelf-warmers. In addition, the carbon footprint for the complete process from virtual development to finished product will be modelled and presented at the trade fair.  

2024 will see the design competition “drupa – textile design talents” being held for the first time. This was conceived of by the DITF and will be implemented by the partner Mitwill. This provides up-coming textile designers and newcomers with a unique opportunity to introduce their ideas and visions to a professional audience.

Broad industry support
A project as comprehensive as the Micro Factory requires many strong partners. The companies “on board” here include: Assyst/Germany (3D simulation for digital apparel twins), Mitwill Textiles Europe/France (creative design network), D.G.I. Digital Graphics Incorporation/South Korea, Multi-Plot Europe/Germany (large-format textile printing), LEONHARD KURZ Stiftung/Germany, Zünd/Switzerland (digital cutting), robotfactory/Denmark, Asco/The Netherlands (presenting an innovative buffer solution between digital printing and cutting, automated sorting of cut parts from the cutter by robotfactory) as well as Brother/Japan (for small-format textile printing and bonding technology). Vaude and berger textiles will be sponsoring the touchpoint. Another key partner is the Albstadt-Sigmaringen University that is supporting the project as a conceptual sponsor and which has set itself the clear mission to incorporate these new topics into its curriculum. This means the staff of the future will be geared up to the new challenges ahead.

Another partner of touchpoint textile is the European Specialist Printing Manufacturers Association (ESMA), which is responsible for the lecture programme. ESMA represents industrial, functional and specialist printing and acts as an organiser of educational events in the field of textile printing. At drupa speakers from research, development, and industry will address issues related to printing and finishing techniques, workflows, market developments and sustainability, to name but a few. The focus will also be on trends and applications that unlock ever new potential through the interplay of digital printing and textile printing substrates. The lectures are divided into the categories Research, Finishing, Print Systems & Hardware, Substrates, Inks & Chemistry and Software & Electronics. Assyst, for example, will deliver talks on the virtual development of apparel as well as the research project ECOShoring, which is funded by the “Deutsche Bundesstiftung Umwelt” – DBU (German Federal Environmental Foundation) and focuses on personalised and on-demand sustainable manufacturing. Other speakers represent Adobe, Balta Group, Barbieri Electronic, Brother, Centexbel, CST, DITF, Fujifilm Speciality Ink Systems, HS Albsig, Kornit Digital, Meteor Inkjet, Mimaki, Mitwill, Multiplot, Print-Rite, RWTH Aachen, Seiko Instruments, Tiger Coatings, Xaar, Zünd and the list is updated on regular basis.

drupa will be held at the Düsseldorf Exhibition Centre from 28 May to 7 June 2024.

The demand for water in Germany is increasing and used water is not being utilized sufficiently. Graywater in particular, i.e. wastewater from showers, bathtubs and washbasins, offers great potential for further use. It can be brought to service water quality on site and reused for flushing toilets or watering gardens, for example. Thanks to flexible 3D textiles, it can even be used in almost any building to save space.

Around 50 to 80 percent of all domestic wastewater is graywater. Until now, large containers and tanks have been needed to reprocess it and return it to the cycle, taking up a lot of space in the building. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) and their project partner ARIS have developed a biological, textile-based system.

It is based on a 3D spacer fabric made of highly durable polypropylene. Its advantage is that it can be installed flat and is therefore extremely space-saving. Thanks to its special system geometry, it can be installed in places that would otherwise remain unused - for example in a new building under the floor of an underground garage, on a flat roof or in the garden. It can be modularly adapted to the water requirements and structural conditions in the respective buildings. "Even vertical solutions on facades are conceivable," explains DITF scientist Jamal Sarsour. This means that the graywater treatment system could be used in densely built-up cities in particular.

The system developed by the project partners requires little maintenance and is therefore particularly cost-effective. Compared to previous solutions, it is characterized by a long lifespan. It therefore contributes to sustainable water use and makes a valuable contribution to the circular economy.

ARIS plans to launch the new textile-based graywater treatment system on the market in 2024.

The project will be presented on June 13, 2024 at the SME Innovation Day of the Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Climate Protection in Berlin.

The research project with the number 16KN080829 of AiF Projekt GmbH, Berlin, was funded by the Federal Ministry of Economics and Climate Protection as part of the Central Innovation Program for SMEs (ZIM) on the basis of a resolution of the German Bundestag.

adidas introduces its 15-piece SS24 Paris Collection ahead of the 2024 clay season. Built to help players adapt to clay court conditions, the collection includes a core 8-piece range of apparel and footwear to help raise awareness of adidas’ annual Move For The Planet activation.

Designed to be played in seasonably warm Parisian temperatures, the collection features HEAT.RDY technology – breathable and lightweight fabrics that maximize airflow, to help keep players feel comfortable on court. Meanwhile increased mobility is unlocked thanks to adidas’ FreeLift Construction – a paneled fabric structure under the armpits – that enables greater freedom of arm movement during play while preventing the hems from riding up.

The pieces have been intentionally paired back, using zero prints to allow other bolder design features to make maximum impact, through striking color blocking, engineered paneling and textured fabrics. White and black panels on the garments emulate classic tennis court lines, highlighted by black bonding seams, meanwhile a stimulating Orange ‘Spark’ is used throughout to foster a sense of joyful energy for players during high-pressure games.

The collection will be worn by athletes including Caroline Wozniacki , Elina Svitolina, Xinyu Wang, Dana Mathewson, Jessica Pegula, Maria Sakkari, Stefanos Tsitsipas , Felix Auger Aliassime, Jason Wu and Martin de la Puente.

At the Techtextil trade fair in Frankfurt, the Chairman of the Walter Reiners Foundation of the VDMA, Peter D. Dornier, presented awards to six successful young engineers. Promotion and sustainability prizes were awarded in the categories bachelor/project theses and diploma/master theses. Academic theses in which, for example, solutions for resource-saving products and technologies are developed are eligible for the sustainability prizes.

The Walter Reiners Foundation awarded Anna Markic a sustainability prize worth 3,000 euros in the Bachelor's category. The topic of her thesis, written at Reutlingen University, was the recycling of carbon fibres.

Mark Zenzinger, Albstadt-Sigmaringen University, received a 3,000 euro promotion award in the Bachelor's category. His topic was the automation of the process chain for the production of welded textile hard goods.
 
Lena Fink from the TU Dresden received another promotion award worth 3,000 euros. Her construction engineering project work focused on a device to simplify the maintenance of braiding machines.

Fabio Bussmann from RWTH Aachen was awarded a promotion prize in the Master's category, worth 3,500 euros. In his thesis, he analysed the life cycle assessments of alternative semi-finished products for geotextiles.

Katharina Maria Ernst, TU Dresden, was honoured with a sustainability prize of 3,500 euros in the Master's category. Her work focused on the development of a suitable process for the treatment of chitosan fibres as an alternative starting product in the production of carbon fibres.

Lennart Hellwig, RWTH Aachen University, was awarded a 3,500 euro prize in the Master's category. He focused on the topic of machine learning using the example of a nonwovens plant.

Archroma is bringing a comprehensive suite of denim solutions to the Bangladesh Denim Expo 2024 at the International Convention Center (ICCB) in Dhaka on May 6 to 7, 2024.

The demand for denim wear is on the rise, accompanied by consumers' heightened expectations for sustainability. Brands looking to meet this demand must not only deliver functional and stylish denim but also minimize environmental impact.

Archroma is presenting a range of planet conscious solutions at the expo, including DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30, DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK, EARTHCOLORS®, as well as their latest SUPER SYSTEMS+ for Denim and the recently launched DENIM HALO concepts.

Polartec, a Milliken & Company brand, underscores its dedication to building a more sustainable future as it pursues the 2025 People, Product and Planet Goals, including certified science-based net-zero targets.

The Milliken & Company 2023 Sustainability Report discloses performance against the diversified global manufacturer’s 2025 Sustainability Goals and Net-Zero Targets and details the company’s key impacts across its people, product, planet, and net-zero measures. It also includes updates on each of the key impact areas Milliken and Polartec adhere to, including:

• People: The company focused on protecting associates by reducing lost-time incidents, strengthened its commitment to an inclusive supply chain by hosting its inaugural Supplier Diversity Event, and surpassed its goal of serving 100,000 community volunteer hours one year ahead of schedule.
• Product: Milliken used sustainability assessments to analyze all new products and made measurable gains in its multi-year commitment to address end-of-life challenges for plastics.
• Planet: Investments in cogeneration, energy efficiency, and renewable energy procurement are keeping the company ahead of schedule relative to its 2025 Greenhouse Gas (GHG) and Renewable Energy Goal; however, paths to achieve its 2025 Landfill and Water Reduction Goals have proven more challenging.
• Net-Zero: Five years of progress on GHG and renewable goals have helped Milliken progress toward its 2030 scope 1 and 2 net-zero targets, and the company has improved its scope 3 accounting to allow for a more detailed and accurate perspective on value chain emissions.

A joint venture between Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL) and Project Plan B, known as Project Re:claim, has begun operations in Kettering, Northamptonshire - the first commercial-scale, post-consumer polyester recycling plant of its kind that provides a solution to the issue of polyester textile waste.

The plant will recycle post-consumer garments and other textiles, and supply the raw material back into the fashion and textiles industries.

The machine was installed in January 2024 and is now fully operational, with polyester pellets being produced from polyester waste. The plant is on track to recycle 2,500 tonnes of unwanted polyester this year, with a further 5,000 tonnes in year 2, and creates polyester pellets which can be spun into yarn for use in textiles along with other industrial applications. The pellets are expected to be integrated into the manufacturing processes of new products later this year.

Computerized flat knitting technologist SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan will exhibit at the upcoming International Exhibition for Garment, Textile Machinery and Accessories (IGATEX Pakistan 2024) exhibition in Lahore, Pakistan.

On display will be SHIMA SEIKI’s N.SSR®072 14G computerized flat knitting machine and SDS®-ONE APEX4 3D design system.

Shown for the first time in Pakistan, SHIMA SEIKI’s new N.SSR®072 computerized jacquard collar machine can produce shaped collars efficiently based on computer-generated designs. N.SSR®072 is based on the workhorse N.SSR®112 garment shaping machine, and offers similar leading technology in an economical yet reliable package.

Design is demonstrated on SHIMA SEIKI's SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system. At the core of the company’s "Total Fashion System" concept, it provides support throughout the supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design, to machine programming, production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is the way SDS®-ONE APEX4 improves on the product planning and design evaluation process by replacing physical samples with digital prototypes. Based on photo-realistic simulations, these virtual samples minimize the need for actual sample-making, realizing significant savings in time, cost and material.

CARBIOS celebrated the groundbreaking ceremony for its PET biorecycling plant in the presence of representatives of local authorities, partner brands and industrial partners who all make up CARBIOS’ ecosystem. Located in Longlaville, in the Grand-Est region of France, CARBIOS' first commercial plant will play a key role in the fight against plastic pollution, offering an industrial-scale solution for the enzymatic depolymerization of PET waste in order to accelerate a circular economy for plastic and textiles. The plant will have a processing capacity of 50kt/year of prepared waste when operating at full capacity. Work is progressing on schedule with significant quantities delivered to customers in 2026.

CARBIOS' technology enables PET circularity and provides an alternative raw material to fossil-based monomers, giving PET producers, waste management companies, public bodies and brands an effective solution to meet regulatory requirements and their own commitments to sustainable development. The plant will have the capacity to process 50,000 tons of prepared PET waste per year (equivalent to 2 billion colored bottles, 2.5 billion food trays or 300 million T-shirts). The plant will create 150 direct and indirect jobs in the region. In October 2023, CARBIOS obtained the building and operating permits for the site. The factory is currently under construction on land officially acquired from Indorama Ventures on 14 February 2024. In February 2024, CARBIOS and De Smet Engineers & Contractors (DSEC) announced their collaboration to manage construction. Several feedstock supply agreements, notably with CITEO and Landbell Group, will secure the vast majority of the raw materials required.  Close to the borders with Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg, the plant's location is strategic for access to nearby waste supplies

North Carolina State University’s Wilson College of Textiles has been making inroads challenging the conventional pad finishing process and significantly reducing its environmental footprint in collaboration with Baldwin Technology Inc. Front and center in its finishing lab is Baldwin’s TexCoat G4™ digital finishing system.
 
For nearly 125 years, the Wilson College of Textiles has been a hub of innovation and learning, transforming students into experts in the world of textiles. As the textile industry grapples with sustainability challenges, the college has embraced new technologies and innovations to address the issue head-on.
 
At the forefront of this transformation is the Zeis Textiles Extension for Economic Development, an arm of Wilson College which serves the textile industry’s prototyping and pilot production needs in its five laboratories – spun yarn, knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing, and physical testing. Collaborations with various textile companies have allowed the university to foster industry partnerships that bring forth groundbreaking ideas.
 
The partnership with Baldwin Technology marks a major milestone for the Raleigh, North Carolina-based college’s efforts to contribute to a more sustainable tomorrow.
 
To tackle the longstanding challenges of unsustainable fashion, NC State has taken the lead in demonstrating to students and industry the transition from the traditional pad finishing process to Baldwin’s TexCoat™ G4 system. It offers an innovative “non-contact” precision spray that significantly reduces water consumption, energy usage and chemical waste.
 
“Instead of needing to take the fabric, dip it into a bath to saturate it, squeeze the excess, dry and cure it, you can now precisely add the exact amount of finish you need on the fabric,” explained Rick Stanford, Baldwin's VP Global Business Development of Textiles. “The TexCoat™ G4 system will reduce the amount of pick-up that’s required to carry the chemical onto the fabric. This will also take a lot less energy to dry the fabric, increasing production speeds.”
 
The adoption of the TexCoat™ G4 system signals a new era for the college, allowing students to actively participate in shaping a sustainable future for the textiles industry. In the global effort to protect the planet and its resources, NC State's Wilson College of Textiles is at the forefront, preparing the next generation of professionals to be the leaders of the sustainable textile movement.