From the Sector

• Award for near-net-shape 3D meshes for use in fibre-reinforced plastics

As part of the JEC FORUM DACH 2022, the AVK Innovation Awards were presented in Augsburg on November 29th. The innovation price in the category "Research/Science" (first place) was awarded to the team of scientists Dipl.-Ing. Dominik Nuss, Dr.-Ing. Cornelia Sennewald and Prof. Dr.-Ing. habil. Chokri Cherif.

With the development of the pull-off-free Jacquard weaving technology including the technological know-how in the field of highly complex 2D and 3D fabric geometries, which has been established at the ITM of the TU Dresden for many years, Dominik Nuss has succeeded in including different yarn lengths locally into the fabric structure solely through targeted variation of the fabric weave. There-fore, it is now possible to produce completely new types of fabrics without additional draping, especially spherically curved fabrics, but also large-format spiral or even curved fabrics. The fact that the required near-net-shape geometry of the component to be reinforced can be reproduced with significantly reduced preforming steps is to be emphasized.

Continuous simulation aided engineering from CAD design to integrally woven 2D and 3D preforms by means of highly complex weave development for spatial constructions is a unique at the ITM, which was indispensable for the development of these promising woven high-tech structures. This technology is completely new and has never been carried out in this way before. The fabric structures are characterised by a high innovation level due to their geometric diversity and purposes. It can be used in numerous applications and further more contributes to the development of completely new fields of application. The technology can be implemented on all Jacquard weaving machines with only an additional device and the preform geometry is only determined by the control of the Jacquard machine. The preform geometry can be used in the full working width of the weaving machine.

Professor Chokri Cherif, Institute Director of the ITM, and his team are very pleased about these continuous research success in the constantly growing research field of 3D weaving technology, which are achieved at the ITM in close cooperation with industry and users. "This award is a special honour for our institute and confirms that the many years of our excellent research in the field of near-net-shape 3D weaving for the fibre-reinforced plastics sector plays a significant role and that we are making a significant contribution to the sustainable and resource-efficient production of lightweight structures with our development".

Studierende des Fachbereichs Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik der Hochschule Niederrhein präsentierten Anfang Dezember bei der Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference 2022 (ADD) Designs auf einer Modenschau. Bei der hybriden Show zeigten Studierende von drei Hochschulen ihre Kollektionen.

Die Studierenden interpretierten mit ihren Outfits vier aktuelle Themen: Creativity, Sustainability, Innovation und Diversity. Gabriela Paranhos Lopes ließ sich für ihre Strick-Kollektion "MOTIRÕ" von Grafiken, Körperbemalungen und Kunsthandwerk brasilianischer Urvölker inspirieren und übersetzte diese in eine zeitgemäße und nachhaltige DOB Strickkollektion. Verarbeitet wurden nur die Pflanzenfasern Bio-Baumwolle und Leinen.

Die Studierenden Franziska Jauch & Gia Phuc Trinh zeigten ihre Kollektion "D4L", die im Rahmen eines Forschungsprojekts entstand. Sie arbeiteten mit flächigen Lasereffekten und Diamond-Finishings, um Denimgewebe emissionsarm zu gestalten. Die Schnittgestaltung und Print-Designs führen wie ein Zeitstrahl durch die Denim- Geschichte bis hin zu einem Zukunftsszenario.

Die Fashion Show wurde in Kooperation mit dem Team der Neo.Fashion.Berlin ausgerichtet, die jährlich die besten Absolventinnen und Absolventen der Fachrichtung Design deutscher Hochschulen in einer „Best Graduates‘ Show“ während der Fashion Week in Berlin der Fachwelt bekannt macht.

„Die Internationale Textiltagung hat als eine der größten Textilkonferenzen eine europaweite Strahlkraft, hier kommen Wissenschaftler und Anwender regelmäßig zusammen. Das Tagungsmotto dieses Jahres „Textile Impulse für die Zukunft“ wird durch die Designtalente richtig gut sichtbar, ein echter Frischekick, um den Blick in die Zukunft zu lenken“, sagt Dr. Maike Rabe, Professorin für Textilveredlung und Ökologie an der Hochschule Niederrhein.

• Lenzing again recognized for sustainable sourcing, innovation and transparency
• Lenzing achieves the highest category for the third time already

The Lenzing Group achieved first place in the “Hot Button Ranking” of the Canadian non-profit organization Canopy, thus confirming its leading role in the areas of sustainability and responsible wood and pulp sourcing. Lenzing can also once again celebrate a dark green shirt, synonymous with the highest category.

In this ranking, which receives a lot of attention in the textile and apparel industry, Canopy evaluates the world’s 34 largest producers of cellulosic fibers in terms of their sustainable wood and pulp sourcing, their efforts with regard to the use of alternative raw materials and their achievements in the protection of ancient and endangered forests. Resource preservation is a key element of Lenzing’s corporate strategy and at the core of its innovation agenda. The sustainable production of TENCEL™, VEOCEL™ and LENZING™ ECOVERO™branded specialty fibers is based on these principles.

Promoting the circular economy
With its REFIBRA™ and Eco Cycle technologies, Lenzing offers solutions for transforming the textile and nonwovens industries towards a circular economy. In line with its vision for the circular economy, “We give waste a new life. Every day.” Lenzing is driving the industry toward a full circular economy by striving to give waste a new life in all aspects of its core business and developing circular solutions together with potential partners inside and outside the current value chain. A milestone on this path is the cooperation with the Swedish pulp producer Södra. The two global market leaders, who have been proactively promoting the circular economy in the fashion industry for many years, are joining forces to give the topic a further boost and make a decisive contribution to solving the global textile waste problem by making fibers from post-consumer textiles.

Today, Lenzing offers lyocell fibers made from 30 percent recycled cotton waste. The company aims to launch lyocell, modal and viscose staple fibers with up to 50 percent recycled post-consumer content on a commercial scale by 2025 and to develop a new circular business model by closing the loops for post-consumer waste. By 2025, the company plans to enter into further partnerships with 25 key supply chain companies.

Grosvenor, an international retail development and investment company, has launched a search for new technologies that promote innovation and create a social customer experience. A major aim of the challenge was to drive retail recovery in a post-pandemic world where bricks and mortar stores saw footfall slump. Zyler’s try-on solution impressed the judges and the companies will launch the technology with Grosvenor’s retail tenants.

Zyler’s patented technology allows customers to see themselves in any outfit with a head and shoulders photo and basic measurements virtually. For retailers, the try-on experience can be embedded into a website or existing app with only a small snippet of code needed.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry convened 500 absorbent hygiene and personal care professionals from 30 countries and throughout the supply chain to participate in the eighth edition of Hygienix™ – the premier event for absorbent hygiene & personal care markets – held in New Orleans, Louisiana, Nov. 14-17.

The program kicked off with recycling approaches for disposable absorbent hygiene waste, followed by business impacts of period product legislation and regulation, new menstrual products, consumer trends, and three finalist presentations for the 2022 Hygienix Innovation Award™.

The event also included presentations from 18 other industry experts along with 13 hours of scheduled face-to-face networking, and 50 tabletop display exhibits and banquet receptions on Tuesday and Wednesday nights.

One highlight of the event was the presentation of INDA’s prestigious Hygienix Innovation Award™ to Egal Pads for Pads on a Roll™ a wrapped super-thin absorbent period pad that dispenses like toilet paper in public bathroom stalls. The product aims to prevent the personal embarrassment of not having a menstrual product when needed.

INDA President Tony Fragnito presented the 2022 INDA Lifetime Service Award to Dave Rousse, INDA President Emeritus, for his long-established service to the nonwovens industry and INDA. Rousse led the acquisition of the INSIGHT conference, and combined the INDA Vision Conference to launch the Hygienix™ conference for the absorbent hygiene and personal care market in 2015, and initiated the purchase of INDA Media.

Hygienix™ 2023 will be held Nov 13-16, in New Orleans, Louisiana .

The Montalvo Corporation, an international industry leader in web tension control products and services based in Gorham Maine, has promoted interim CEO Russ Hall to Chief Executive Officer (CEO).

Hall moves into this new role with over 35 years of business and leadership experience spanning a large variety of previous positions ranging from technical sales and support, customer service, sales management, and executive leadership roles. He has already been involved in and will continue the work of expanding Montalvo’s market share, improving Montalvo’s product line, and strengthening Montalvo’s international presence.  

Russ Hall explains: “It truly is an honor for me to move into this role with Montalvo. I look forward to leading one of the strongest teams Montalvo has had in its history which is focused on innovation and achieving our vision of becoming the global leader in Web Tension Control Systems and solutions. We are expanding our reach into new industries, and we are developing new products and solutions that raise expectations in our industry, while at the same time branching out to offer customers complete solutions for their Web Handling needs through in-house capabilities and an impressive group of business partners”.

The Japanese textile brand ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei Advance continues its eco-high tech path and joins ISPO, the influential fashion and textile fair dedicated to sportwear and athleisure-wear, as part of an Asahi Kasei space within the ISPO Brandnew area, presenting its AW 2024/2025 & SS2024 collections, made of high-tech fabrics implementing new-generation values, with the aim of keeping nature, body and mind in harmony.

2022 is a special time for Asahi Kasei as it celebrates its 100th anniversary. This year at ISPO Munich (28-30^th November), Asahi Kasei Group present its innovation world featuring three of its brands: ECOSENSOR™, ROICA™ and RespiGard™.
 
ECOSENSOR™ presents 47 new references that meet the needs of the contemporary consumer, such as durability, wellbeing and performance. Being capable of combining active climate control, exquisite touch, lightness and comfort with sustainable values, ECOSENSOR™ stands out as a unique eco-high-tech performance proposition in its market. The collection covers the different market applications with 3 items for INNERWEAR, 1 for OUTERWEAR, 13 for SPORT KNIT and 30 for SPORT WOVENS.

New this season is the application of the RespiGard™ by Polypore unique membrane designed for outdoor apparel. Its innovative pore structure is too small for water droplets to penetrate but features high porosity that allows for airflow and moisture evaporation.

In order to show at best the performances and possible applications of the fabrics made with RespiGard™, ECOSENSOR™ will feature at its ISPO space an ad hoc created outfit by the outerwear brand.

Furthermore, the majority of ECOSENSOR™ fabrics are made with sustainable ingredients which are certified by international certifications such as GRS and RCS through a traceable and transparent production process and supply chain.  100% of the stretch articles (representing 35% of the collection) are made with ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei, the recycled stretch yarn made from pre-consumer materials. Even the dyeing and finishing phases - key moments for performancewear - have been certified by international labels such as bluesign® or OEKO-TEX® Standard 100.

• Successful repositioning: BOGNER achieves its best financial year since 2015 following the completion of the two-year performance program.
• Continuity in management: Gerrit Schneider takes over as sole CEO. Heinz Hackl, present Co-CEO, leaves the company by mutual agreement. With former CEO Andreas Baumgaertner and Andreas Gall two experienced advisors move closer to the management.
• Streamlined governance and corporate structure: Arndt Geiwitz hands the company back into the hands of the family after the successful completion of the performance program and takes over the chairmanship of the newly created advisory board. BOGNER operates with GmbH as legal form in the future.

With the financial results in 2021/22, BOGNER has achieved the most successful financial year since 2015. A key contribution to this was provided by the performance program developed with the management consultancy EY Parthenon in July 2020. Since then, it was implemented as planned and successfully promoted profitability and sustainable global growth. In order to create the ideal framework conditions for further success, BOGNER is now simplifying its management, governance and corporate structures.

Gerrit Schneider takes over as sole CEO
Gerrit Schneider, Co-CEO of BOGNER since April 2020 and responsible for Finance, Legal, IT, Operations and HR, will take over the sole CEO role of BOGNER with immediate effect. Heinz Hackl, present Co-CEO of BOGNER and currently responsible for Sales, Design, Marketing and Licensing, will leave BOGNER by mutual agreement.

The former BOGNER CEO Andreas Baumgaertner (2017-2020) will move closer to the management for all product- and design-specific topics and will intensify his advisory role. He has already advised the company in the background in recent years and will now accompany and help to shape the future direction of the brand even more closely. As for the external media presence, BOGNER secures further know-how and experience with Andreas Gall, the former founding CEO and Chief Innovation Officer (CINO) of Red Bull Media House.

Streamlined structures with end of trusteeship and new active advisory board
In addition to the management, BOGNER is also refining its governance structures: With the successful completion of the performance programm, trustee Arndt Geiwitz has achieved the goal he has set together with management and family to bring BOGNER in a strong position. Now he returns the company back to the family. Arndt Geiwitz will remain closely associated with BOGNER and will accompany the company in its further development as Chairman of the newly created advisory board.

Furthermore, BOGNER changes the legal form of the company to a GmbH (limited liability company) and merges individual group companies as part of this step. This simplifies the corporate structures and reduces complexity. As part of this adjustment, BOGNER is setting up an advisory board with supervisory function. The advisory board, staffed with experienced personalities, will advise the management comprehensively on the strategic direction, function as a sparring partner and serve as a supervisory body. In addition to Arndt Geiwitz as Chairman, Christian Laus, a long-standing advisor of the Bogner family and Managing Director of BOGNER Film GmbH, will become a member of the advisory board. Furthermore, Dr. Daniel Heine, Managing Director of Patrimonium Asset Management AG, will join the advisory board. A private debt fund of Patrimonium Asset Management AG as strategic financing partner and BOGNER have signed financial agreements to replace the loan agreement concluded with various banks as part of the performance program.

Medline, a medical product distributor and manufacturer, together with Hologenix® launched a new line of CURAD® Performance Series® orthopedic products powered by CELLIANT® infrared technology.

CELLIANT, the flagship innovation of Hologenix, is a proprietary blend of natural minerals that allows textiles to convert body heat into infrared energy, returning it to the body and temporarily increasing local blood flow and cellular oxygenation. This has been clinically demonstrated to support recovery from physical activity and fatigue, increase endurance and stamina, and boost overall performance in healthy individuals, among other benefits.  

Trusted by athletes, CURAD is the Official Medical Supplier of the IRONMAN® U.S. Series. The new orthopedic products powered by CELLIANT infrared technology are the latest additions to the CURAD Performance Series collection and including different infrared supports designed for the ankle, knee, back, shoulder, as well as multipurpose use.

“This new CURAD Performance Series offering represents a major expansion of CELLIANT infrared (IR) bio-responsive textiles into the sports medicine field,” said Seth Casden, Hologenix Co-Founder and CEO. “We are honored to partner with Medline and look forward to future introductions.”

In addition to the inclusion of CELLIANT infrared technology, Medline has engineered the elastic supports to provide targeted compression for enhanced local circulation that helps reduce swelling, with a contoured fit that won’t slip or shift during normal activities with silicone grips that keep the product in place.

The removable hot/cold therapy supports provide adjustable compression and a gel compress that can be cooled or heated to further reduce swelling and discomfort.

Hosted outside of Copenhagen for the first time in its 13-year history, on 3 November, Global Fashion Summit assembled over 250 stakeholders representing manufacturers, garment workers, retailers, brands, suppliers, NGOs, policy, and innovators in Singapore and online to spur industry action. The Summit was presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), the non-profit organisation that is accelerating the transition to a net positive fashion industry.
 
The latest edition of the Summit was centred around the theme ‘Alliances for a New Era’, building on dialogues from the June edition in Copenhagen and gathering leaders from across the entire value chain to elevate diverse voices and foster alliances within the fashion industry and beyond, to drive sustainable impact.
 
The Summit’s first international edition facilitated more conversations with manufacturer and supply chain voices to discuss crucial challenges and opportunities around working collaboratively with brands on equal terms. The programme featured bold panels, case studies, masterclasses and leadership roundtables reflecting on topics including ‘Data Scarcity: A Crisis of Measurement?’, ‘Disruption for Better Wage Systems’, ’Community and Circularity’, ‘Connecting the EU Textiles Strategy with the Value Chain’ and ‘Our Energy Transformation Moment’.
 
Attendees heard from over 50 speakers including H.E. Sandra Jensen Landi, Ambassador of Denmark to Singapore & Ambassador-Designate of Denmark to Brunei; H.E. Iwona Piórko, Ambassador of the European Union to Singapore; Anne-Laure Descours, Chief Sourcing Officer, PUMA; Baptiste Le Gal, Chief Revenue Officer APAC, Vestiaire Collective; Christian James Smith, Head of Sustainability Stakeholder Engagement, Zalando; Ninh Trinh, Director of Responsible Sourcing & Sustainability, Target; Roger Lee, CEO, TAL Apparel; Wilson Teo, President, Singapore Fashion Council; Edwin Keh, Chief Executive Officer, The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel, Ashila Dandeniya, Founder, StandUp Lanka; and more.

Key takeaways and highlights from the event include:

• Global Fashion Agenda announced a new alliance with BBC Storyworks Commercial Productions to launch a film series on BBC.com, which is currently in the early stages of development. The new series will present human-centric stories focusing on both social and environmental sustainability in the fashion industry. It will be released to a wide audience in 2023.
• Federica Marchionni outlined the crucial need for accurate and robust data to substantiate sustainability claims and credentials but acknowledged that the focus on finding ‘perfect’ data cannot be allowed to stifle progress. Global Fashion Agenda will build upon Summit discussions to reflect on how the industry can accurately measure and communicate sustainability performance and illuminate the data credibility challenges.
• The session ‘Establishing circular fashion systems in Cambodia & Vietnam’ outlined the first steps taken by the Global Circular Fashion Forum to establish circular fashion systems in Vietnam and Cambodia with regional stakeholders, government, brand and manufacturer representation.
• Throughout the Summit, the Innovation Forum connected fashion companies with sustainable solution providers. Exhibitors included Better Work , Circular Fashion Partnership, Compreli, Kno Global, Planatones by Noyon Lanka, Redress Design Award and The ID Factory.
• Through conversations such as ‘Disruption for Better Wage Systems’ and ‘Empowering the Worker Majority’, there was a resounding message for people to consider the real people in the value chain. Ensuring dignified livelihoods for these workers should have the same sense of urgency as emissions reductions.