From the Sector

Sappi Europe received a platinum score in the latest EcoVadis rating. On of the leading global providers of sustainable woodfibre products and solutions retained its top position from the previous year among the leading one per cent of all companies assessed which exhibit high activity and responsibility with regard to corporate social responsibility (CSR).

• Sappi Europe receives top rating for sustainability
• Unlocking the power of renewable resources to benefit people, communities and the planet

As part of its clear strategic goals in relation to sustainability and environmental protection, Sappi reached a new milestone. A market leader in environmentally friendly packaging and graphic papers received a platinum score in this year’s sustainability rating from EcoVadis, establishing itself as one of the top performers, with a score well above the overall average. The EcoVadis rating covers a total of 21 criteria, which in turn are divided into four general areas: environment, labour and human rights, ethics and sustainable procurement.

Encouraging sustainable operations across the entire value chain have been a key part of Sappi’s corporate strategy for many years. Sappi’s entire business model and investments in research and development are based on the use of renewable materials. The environment management approach of the global company includes a variety of strategies designed to improve its ecological footprint. For 2025, Sappi has linked its sustainability targets to the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals. Sappi has long held principles based around People, Planet and Prosperity and with  a heightened focus on seven of the SDG’s they believe they can deliver  real impact and contribute to the global sustainable development agenda.

The platinum rating from EcoVadis demonstrates that Sappi not only talks about sustainability, but actively works towards ensuring it in a very practical way. The whole world is talking about sustainable solutions and looking for alternatives to fossil fuels. Sappi is focused on providing product solutions to the market. A few weeks ago, the market leader presented a number of solutions relating to functional paper packaging as part of its ‘Pro Planet Paper Packaging’ campaign to enable sustainable, high-quality packaging for food and non-food products.

Sappi Europe is extremely proud to have obtained the EcoVadis Platinum rating and while certification and recognition go a long way to helping our work we also acknowledge at Sappi Europe that we are part of a global community that need to continue to strive in all our business areas to create the change needed to help our customers become truly sustainable. The recyclable nature of products derived from woodfibre are essential to creating a more circular economy, where the world’s resources are kept in use longer and more creatively. By responsibly sourcing materials, reducing material waste and emissions , carefully considering product end-of-life, and aiming to use the full potential of trees, we actively promote more sustainable systems explains Sarah Price, Sappi Europe’s Sustainability Manager

RONSE, BELGIUM – Devan today announces new test results confirming the high performance virus-reducing capabilities of its BI-OME fabric coating technology on both unwashed and intensely washed fabrics. According to independent testing, BI-OME is proven to achieve 99% and higher virus reduction, including of SARS-COV-2, on samples before washing and retains 98.5% even after 25 wash cycles.
“In view of the COVID-19 pandemic and fast-approaching autumn/winter flu season, we were keen to provide textile manufacturers with concrete assurance regarding virus reduction performance on washed samples according to ISO 18184. This exceeds the limitations of the post-wash antimicrobial results most commonly shared for other technologies, giving the textile industry a clear, more precise overview of performance and wash durability,” comments Sven Ghyselinck, CEO of Devan.

Over recent months, Devan has worked closely with a series of international third party laboratories to test different fabric substrates against a wide of enveloped viruses. Before washing, samples treated with Devan BI-OME score very good to excellent (99% and higher according to ISO 18184) results on virus reduction. Different substrates, like polyester, cotton and polycottons, were exposed to enveloped viruses like SARS-COV-2 (known to cause COVID-19), Feline Corona, Vaccinia (the EU standard for enveloped viruses) and Porcine Respiratory viruses. After 30minutes, BI-OME already reduced 99.96% of the activity of SARS-COV-2.

After washing, a decrease in virus reduction performance of coating technologies is normal and expected. However, BI-OME is confirmed to deliver only a minimal reduction, retaining up to 98.5% virus reduction even when the fabric is washed 25 times. Devan is further improving its formulas to improve wash resistance even more and at the same time keep the economical add-on cost as low as possible.
Devan’s BI-OME is already endorsed by a wide range of companies. Their collections span diverse applications including bedding, clothing, travel accessories, and transport.

BI-OME is a non-metal non-leaching quat silane-based chemistry. The product is BPR (EU, TR) and EPA registered and Ökotex class 1 registered. Through its nature it is inherently biodegradable.

• Members of TMAS – the Swedish textile machinery association – have adopted a range of new strategies in response to the Covid-19 pandemic, aimed at assisting manufacturers of textiles and apparel to adjust to a new normal, as Europe and other regions emerge cautiously from lockdown.

“Many European companies have been forced into testing new working methods and looking at what it’s possible to do remotely, and how to exploit automation to the full, in order to become more flexible,” says TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson. “Others have been taking risks where they see opportunies and there’s a new sense of solidarity among companies.

“It’s extremely encouraging, for example, that over five hundred European companies from across our supply chain are reported to have responded to the shortages of facemasks and PPE – protective personal equipment – by converting parts of their sites or investing in new equipment.”

New supply chains

Amongst them are TMAS members of the ACG Group, who quickly established a dedicated new nonwovens fabric converting and single-use garment making-up plant to supply to the Swedish health authorities. From a standing start in March, this is now producing 1.8 million square metres of converted fabric and turning it into 692,000 finished medical garments each month.

“In 2020 so far, we have seen new value chains being created and a certain amount of permanent reshoring is now inevitable,” says Premler-Andersson. “This is being backed by the new funding announced in the European Union’s Next Generation EU plan, with €750 billion marked for helping industry recover. As the European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen has stressed, “green and digital” transitions hold the key to Europe’s future prosperity and resilience, and TMAS members have new solutions to assist in both areas.”

Remote working

Automated solutions have opened up many possibilities for remote working during the pandemic. Texo AB, for example, the specialist in wide-width weaving looms for the paper industry, was able to successfully complete the build and delivery of a major multi-container order between April and May.

“Our new Remote Guidance software now makes it possible for us to carry out some of the commissioning and troubleshooting of such new lines remotely, which has been helpful” says Texo AB President Anders Svensson.

Svegea of Sweden, which has spent the past few months developing its new CR-210 fabric relaxation machine for knitted fabrics, has also successfully set up and installed a number of machines remotely, which the company has never attempted before.

“The pandemic has definitely led to some inventive solutions for us and with international travel currently not possible, we are finding better methods of digital communication and collaboration all the time,” says Svegea managing director Hakan Steene.

Eric Norling, Vice President of the Precision Application business of Baldwin Technology, believes the pandemic may have a more permanent impact on global travel.

“We have now proven that e-meetings and virtual collaboration tools are effective,” he says. “Baldwin implemented a home office work regime from April with only production personnel and R&D researchers at the workplace. These past few months have shown that we can be just as effective and do not need to travel for physical meetings to the same extent that was previously thought to be necessary.”

Pär Hedman, Sales and Marketing Manager for IRO AB, however, believes such advances can only go so far at the moment.

“Video conferences have taken a big leap forward, especially in development projects, and this method of communication is here to stay, but it will never completely replace personal meetings,” he says. “And textile fabrics need to be touched, examined and accepted by the senses, which is impossible to do via digital media today. The coming haptic internet, however, may well even change that too.”

Social distancing

The many garment factories now equipped with Eton Systems UPS work stations – designed to save considerable costs through automation – have meanwhile benefited from the unintentional social distancing they automatically provide compared to factories with conventional banks of sewing machines.

“These companies have been able to continue operating throughout the pandemic due to the spaced nature of our automated plant configurations,” says Eton Systems Business Development Manager Roger Ryrlén. “The UPS system has been established for some time, but planned spacing has proved an accidental plus for our customers – with improved productivity.”

“Innovations from TMAS member companies have been coming thick and fast recently due to their advanced know-how in automation concepts,” Premler-Andersson concludes.  “If anything, the restrictions imposed by the Covid-19 pandemic have only accelerated these initiatives by obliging our members to take new approaches.”

Modernized press eases digital printing conversion, signals new era for PCMC and RDP Marathon

Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC)—part of the Barry-Wehmiller Converting Solutions Platform announced the recent installation of the new Signature Series (380V-s) wide-web, high-speed offset  press at J.J. Collins Printers in Charleston, Illinois.
The 380V-s is the first in the series that is replacing the 380V press series, long highly regarded by printers in the longrun documents and high-end promotional graphics markets. The new design incorporates the latest in internet connectivity and touchscreen technology, and allows for easy integration with full or hybrid digital printing.
Designed by RDP Marathon, a recent acquisition of PCMC, the 380V-s represents PCMC’s expansion into providing equipment and services to the offset printing industry. Backed by PCMC’s global sales, manufacturing and service support, RDP Marathon will continue to maintain a sharp  focus on innovation. J.J. Collins Printers—already using an RDP Marathon model 260P blanket-to-blanket, heat-set press for its high-end commercial products—has been providing innovative print solutions  since 1878. Its commitment to using state-of-theart pre-press, press and bindery equipment has ensured the company's position as a leader in the print manufacturing industry.
In addition to the 380V-s, PCMC continues to develop new technologies and applications for a variety of print markets.

At ISPO, AKA – Asahi Kasei Advance keeps the planet fit and healthy at the same time. The cutting edge department of global material innovator Asahi Kasei, unveils ECOSENSOR™, the cutting-edge fabric collection boosting responsible innovation with a “New Eco High-tech Force of Nature” new generation of performance.

Harnessing AKA expertise in yarning a smarter future, the new range focuses on sportwear, urban and athleisure fabrics. “At ISPO we launch the energetic protein fitting perfectly in textiles for clothes with an active imprint, comfort touch and smooth style. From-yarn-to-dyeing and along the whole supply chain, the collection is 100% traceable.” Says Nishizawa Akira, President & Representative Director Asahi Kasei Advance corporation.

Such goals were scored thanks to the renown expertise of Research & Development and energized by constantly and strictly controlled processes that aim to save energy, water and Green House gases emissions. The result is a high-performative collection combining maximum comfort with durability and stretch-ability.

With ECOSENSOR™, Asahi Kasei Advance truly innovates at ISPO as the very first producers choosing the high-performance path with sustainable values. “Like a truly complete athlete, ECOSENSOR™ wins both during the sprint and all along its performance. It’s outstanding light & stretch features match durability.”

Indeed, the flexible and multitasking range is the high-tech solution for sportwear, outerwear and beyond. The collection embraces the casual and sporty mood of active urban surfers as well as that easy-to-wear attitude for a relaxing free-time at home.

Excellent stretch and high-performative features match the adventurous temperament of extreme explorers, while durability and resistance are the key features to weave fabrics for outdoor activities. The target of ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei is to push at maximum the choice towards bluesign® approved and Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified ingredients and production processes, and GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for recycled ingredients, showing the path to sustainability.

Working with the best like-minded apparel partners, AKA has achieved unsurpassed active climate control materials. The unique high-tech and low-impact functionality has been designed to make a real, sustainable difference a better future.

In the latest short film released on the Monforts YouTube Channel – captured at the recent Denim Première Vision show in London – some of the leading global manufacturers discuss their initiatives for more sustainable denim production.

Cone Denim, based in Greensboro, North Carolina, for example, can lay claim to having put in place its first environmental control measures back in the 1940s when the company first started recycling its water.

“It was a method of efficiency even back then, eighty years ago,” says Gabriel Magopat, of the company’s UK customer service centre, “but  producing high quality products is another method of being sustainable and of being efficient, and I think that’s what Cone stands for. We have an amazing history.”

Cone Denim is known for its signature S Gene® stretch denims which have traditionally incorporated polyester components to provide the stretch. It has now partnered with Intrinsic Advanced Materials of Gastonia, also in North Carolina, to introduce patent-pending CiCLO stretch polyester fibres into its denim collections. 

While still being synthetic based, CiCLO polyester is able to biodegrade in marine environments, wastewater treatment plants and landfill conditions, at rates similar to natural fibres like wool. 

This more sustainable solution for stretch is also being introduced to China for the first time by another leading denim supplier, Advance Denim.

“Advance Denim is spending its resources on being the most technologically advanced company in China, and also the most sustainable,” says Mark Ix, the company’s Director of Marketing. “We are investing heavily in our manufacturing to save both water and chemicals to create cleaner products.”

Monforts denim customer Berto is a family-owned company with its main denim mill in Bovolenta, a small rural town near to Padua in the north east of Italy, where respect for the environment has always been a must.

“The family has always been focused on respect for the environment,” says Berto’s Marketing Manager Francesca Palento. “In particular, we have a river next to the company from which we take our water for production and we then return it cleaner than it was before. We are also now producing GOTS and Global Recycling Standard jean produced with yarns made from our own internal waste production.”

Pakistan’s Soorty has recently received Cradle to Cradle Gold certification – the most stringent and exacting sustainable standard currently in existence – for its Pure D range of denims. These are produced using the company’s proprietary Zero Waste Water dyeing technology, in combination with the most advanced Monforts finishing machines. 

“Our very latest collection is called Climate Jeans, because every single product we now produce draws attention to the climate emergency we are living through right now,” says Eda Dikman, Soorty’s Marketing Communications Manager. “Sustainability is very important to us because we produce at scale and all of the actions we take reflect on the planet.”

• Elleti Group takes center stage at Denim PV to present a special project realized in partnership with MYR, and to share a selection of iconic garments belonging to M.O.D.E, the company’s Museum of Denim.
• Collaboration will be the main theme of the two-day event, involving not only the leading company’s expertise in garment-making but also its tradition, starring M.O.D.E in its firstever collaboration with a trade show and in Alessio Berto’s  RE-TRACE workshops series.

London – When it comes to long-established traditions in the denim industry, Elleti Group stands out as one of the main key players: strong in the business since the 80’s, the company is highlyspecialized in laundry and garment-making services while covering the entire denim production cycle in its eleven production hub.

Its heritage and approach define a valuable and renowned legacy that is now taking stage at Denim PV on December 3rd and 4th. For the occasion, Elleti Group joined forces and knowledge with MYR, start-up program conceived to digitalize the creative process and connect users, suppliers and final consumers through a digital platform. Both companies will be in the Garments and Finishings area - booth C3,  howcasing an exclusive project to highlight their creativity and competences.

Starting from a selection of bold designs, entirely envisioned and developed with MYR software, Elleti Group worked to recreate their look and fit on six garments, manufacturing each piece according to its signature innovative and responsible approach. Featuring forefront machinery and cutting-edge processing solutions, this relies on a continuous research effort focused on granting high-quality products while increasingly reducing their knock-on effect on both workers and the environment.

The result turned out to be very impactful and inspiring, with denim solutions which proved the mastery of the leading Italian company in the art of washing, cutting and stitching the iconic blue fabric, as well as the great support that MYR software provided in the development of the collections.

M.O.D.E. x Denim PV: an exclusive exhibition to explore the history of denim

Opened on June 19th, M.O.D.E. – Museum of Denim Elleti Group – is a precious resource located within the company’s Headquarters in San Bonifacio (Italy). Here are 106 pieces dating between the second half of the XIX century and the 70s, resulting in an invaluable testimony of how denim evolved through the centuries. For the first-ever collaboration of the Museum with a trade show, a selection of 20 historical garments is exploring three research areas. These are meant to focus on:

• The brand identity of jeans through the main evolutions at Lee;
• The influence of WWII on the design, the creation and the wearing of clothing;
• The history of overall.

Archroma will be at ChromaTexChem India 2019 to present its latest innovations and solution systems aimed to help textile manufacturers with optimized productivity and/or value creation in their markets. Archroma will also moderate a panel at the exhibition official conference on “Sustainable innovation in textile processing”.

At ChromaTexChem, visitors will be able to discover 24 systems developed along the principles of The Archroma Way to help them create value in their textile applications and markets.

Anjani Prasad, Head of Sales, India, Archroma, comments: “With the growing concerns about resource scarcity and product safety, brands and manufacturers in India work with us, because we continuously develop the innovations and solution systems that help them to address these challenges, increase productivity and create value for them. We do that with in mind the planet and its inhabitants, in line with the objectives of “The Archroma way": Safe, efficient, enhanced. Because it’s our nature!”

Communicating brand values and product characteristics in an emotional way and staging them in an appropriate manner is becoming increasingly important for brand manufacturers. To connect with the end consumer, they need to have paperboards that enhance the visual and tactile experience. In response to these needs, Sappi is now introducing the next generation of its popular and proven Algro Design portfolio – with an enhanced paperboard version and a change of name.

More and more consumers want exclusive, customised packaging that reflects a brand’s unique selling points and special character. For even more flexibility and design scope, Sappi is expanding its range of premium solid bleached boards to include an additional variety as of 1 October 2019: Algro Design Advanced. This gives customers a choice of four different reverse side surfaces within the popular Algro Design portfolio, which means one more paperboard variety than before. The paperboards differ with regard to the reverse side coating; the top sides are identical and always double coated. As part of the ongoing development of the popular Algro Design paperboard, the term “Nature” is now added. This further underlines the brand’s natural look on the uncoated reverse side and its haptic character. A specification of this kind is in great demand today, as the reverse side of the paperboard is being used more and more frequently as the outward face of a finished box. The product itself and all properties remain the same.

• Organic Waste Systems and TÜV confirm fiber biodegradability also in fresh water
• All white LENZING™ Viscose, Modal and Lyocell fibers are now certified for all environments
• Global legislators aim at limiting plastic waste persisting in the environment for centuries
• EU Single-Use Plastics Directive partly regulates usage of plastic products
• Biodegradable materials such as wood-based fibers are the best alternative to single-use plastics

The Lenzing Group received confirmation of the full biodegradability of its fibers in fresh water by the independent research laboratory Organic Waste Systems (OWS). The new and existing international certifications conducted by OWS and issued by TÜV Austria verify that LENZING™ Viscose fibers, LENZING™ Modal fibers and LENZING™ Lyocell fibers are biodegradable in all natural and industrial environments: in the soil, compost as well as in fresh and in marine water.

The biodegradability of cellulosic products and the synthetic fiber polyester was tested in fresh water at OWS according to valid international standards, e.g. ISO 14851. At the end of the trial period, LENZING™ wood-based cellulosic fibers, cotton and paper pulp were shown to be fully biodegradable in fresh water in contrast to synthetic polyester fibers. The fact that synthetic materials are not biodegradable leads to major problems in wastewater treatment plants and potentially marine litter. In turn, this not only harms fish and birds living in and close to the oceans but also all marine organisms and us humans.

“The Lenzing Group operates a truly circular business model based on the renewable raw material wood to produce biodegradable fibers returning to nature after use. This complete cycle comprises the starting point of the core value of sustainability embedded in our company strategy sCore TEN and is the ‘raison d’etre’ of our company”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “In living up to this positioning, we not only enhance the business of our suppliers, customers and partners along the value chain but also improve the state of the entire textile and nonwovens industries.”

Both the textile and nonwovens industries face huge challenges with respect to littering. If current trends continue, the oceans could contain more plastic than fish by 2050. Therefore, legislative bodies worldwide can no longer ignore the issue and have moved towards plastics legislation aimed at limiting the vast amount of waste. In response, European lawmakers issued the Single-Use Plastics Directive currently being transposed into national legislation in the EU member states.

Conventional wet wipes and hygiene products mostly contain plastic and were thus identified as one of the product categories to be singled out. Less polluting alternatives are generally encouraged by NGOs and legislators, e.g. products made of biodegradable wood-based cellulosic fibers. Plastic waste including microplastic can persist in the environment for centuries. In contrast, biodegradable materials are the best alternative to single-use plastics because they fully convert back to nature by definition and thus do not require recycling.