From the Sector

CALZEDONIA chooses products belonging to the GREEN LABEL line by ILUNA GROUP for its new Eco Collection of tights. They are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) and OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certified and made with recycled yarns.

The ingredients used in the collection are:

• Q-NOVA® by Fulgar, an eco-sustainable nylon 6.6 fiber obtained from regenerated raw materials through a mechanical process that does not involve the use of chemical materials. It has been certified with the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and for some time now has been part of the HIGG INDEX, the index developed by SAC (Sustainable Apparel Coalition) evaluating the environmental impact of the entire life cycle of a garment;
• ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei, one of the first recycled stretch yarns certified with Global Recycled Standard (GRS).

This collaboration confirms Iluna's commitment to creating products with a environmental responsibility thanks to a technological and corporate system that covers the entire perimeter of production, from materials to processing, dyeing and finishing. An industrial reality that increasingly integrates the value of responsibility, as demonstrated by the fact that the percentage of sustainable production has risen from 3% in 2018 to 52% in 2021.

• The “new normal” by Südwolle: responsible, seasonless and high performance

The concept of seasonality in the F/W 2023/24 collection is increasingly vague, in favour of more functional categories in terms of performance, sustainability, innovative content and style.

Yarns are predominantly pure wool or blends, corresponding with the new concept of “dressing well” which is gaining ground among consumers – an individual style that promotes wellbeing at various times of the day, a fluid, personal idea of elegance, that fits daily activities with ease.

The new formal replaces the traditional suit with “smart casual” jackets and trousers -comfortable, and carefully cut, they feature quality materials that guarantee wearability as well as durability. Focus on these factors makes for more informed and less impulse buying.

The renewed interest in heritage is met with Südwolle's wool know-how and its basic essentials, updated to make them more sustainable by choosing certified fibres and chlorine-free anti-shrink treatments, for products with a longer lifespan thanks to domestic washing at low temperatures.

Sustainable innovation attentive to performance and durability goes hand in hand with the selection of earth-friendly recycled, recyclable and traceable materials blended with natural fibres.

Overview of the collection
The words inspiring the new collection are: sustainable, responsible, natural, recycled and high-performance.

A leading position goes to the OTW® line of weaving yarns made with Omega Twist® technology, developed and patented by Südwolle Group, which gives yarns enhanced performances in terms of reduced pilling, greater elasticity, strength and durability.

Espresso TEX Nm 48/2 (100% untreated wool,20.5μ) was created to value the authentic naturalness of wool. Made with undyed, untreated merino wool, it is a twisted yarn for weaving, ideal, for example, for flannel suits and jacket. It is available in 4 shades of brown obtained by mixing different percentages of untreated raw wool and undyed, naturally brown wool.
Eolo Nm 24/2 (100% wool 20.5 µ) is an example of circular production and reuse of recycled wool within the Karma project. Starting with in-house pre-and post-production waste, a partly carded, partly combed, product is created at Südwolle Group facilities where this type of process can be carried out.

Rhein GOTSNm 64/1 and Nm 64/2 (100% wool 19.5 µ) is the new pure woolyarn with GOTS –Global Organic Textile Standard certification, which certifies its organic provenance. The same traceable origin applies to Lerici GOTS X-COMPACT®Nm 60/1 (70% GOTS certified wool 19.5μ, 30% Schappe Mulberry silk), a glossy yarn with reduced pilling effect for improved anti-abrasion performance, obtained with X-COMPACT® spinning technology.

Performance paired with reduced energy consumption is the added value of SRP ClarkNm 60/2 (48% wool 23.5μ, 44% cationic polyester, 8% Donegal viscose), also available in a stretch version. The cationic polyester can be dyed blended with the wool, making double dying unnecessary and so saving on water and energy consumption. The addition of pre-dyed red, green or brown Donegal viscose to the blend creates a fluid look enhanced with slubbing and micro-nep effect.

Rosvic Nm 40/2 (98% wool 19.5μ, 2% Lycra®44 dtex) is a twisted yarn with Basolan treatment for comfort fabrics. It has a slightly textured surface with a contrasting or tone on tone micro mouliné pattern.

Key players among the circular knitting and hosiery yarns are Basak Nm 80/1(80% wool TEC. 20% polyamide 2.2 dtex), OTW® Barone GRS Nm 60/2(60% wool 23.5 µ TEC, 40% RENU™ recycled cationic polyester 2.2 dtex) and OTW®Concorde Nm 88/2(100% wool 19.3 µ TEC), available in the new colour cards.

Im Rahmen seiner Wachstumsstrategie „CLAIM 5" von HUGO BOSS (MDAX: BOSS) realisierte das Unternehmen das erste nachhaltigkeitsbezogene Investment der Gruppe in Form einer Beteiligung von 5 Millionen USD an HeiQ AeoniQ LLC, einer hundertprozentigen Tochtergesellschaft der in London notierten HeiQ Plc (LSE: HEIQ).

Die Investition wird durch eine zusätzliche Vereinbarung in Höhe von 4 Millionen USD ergänzt, die der Erreichung der vereinbarten Ziele unterliegt. Die strategische Partnerschaft wird HUGO BOSS dabei helfen, die ehrgeizigen Nachhaltigkeitsziele des Unternehmens zu erreichen, darunter das Ziel der Klimaneutralität im eigenen Verantwortungsbereich bis 2030 und in der gesamten Wertschöpfungskette bis 2045. Darüber hinaus legt das Unternehmen besonderen Wert auf die Etablierung eines End-to-End-Kreislaufwirtschaftsmodells. Mittel- bis langfristig konzentriert sich HUGO BOSS auf das Potenzial, die derzeit verwendeten Polyester- und Nylonfasern durch die zellulosehaltigen HeiQ AeoniQ-Fasern materiell zu ergänzen und zu ersetzen.

Vor der Kapitalbeteiligung von HUGO BOSS erklärte sich The LYCRA Company bereit, als exklusive Vertriebspartnerin für das HeiQ AeoniQ-Garn eine meilensteinabhängige Technologiegebühr zu zahlen und sich zu verpflichten, ihr umfassendes Textilwissen und ihren Zugang zu den Marktkanälen zu nutzen, um diese neue Technologie für einen breiten Einsatz in der Bekleidungsindustrie vorzubereiten.

Der Großteil des eingebrachten Kapitals wird für die Vergrößerung und Kommerzialisierung dieser bahnbrechenden Technologie verwendet. In diesem Zusammenhang wird die HeiQ AeoniQ LLC ihre erste kommerzielle Giga-Fabrik in Mitteleuropa bis Ende 2024 errichten und baut derzeit ihre Pilotanlage für die kommerzielle Faserproduktion aus, die für Q2 2022 geplant ist.

HeiQ AeoniQ Zellulosegarn aus klimafreundlichen Rohstoffen
HeiQ AeoniQ (Aeon: Streben nach ewiger Kreislauffähigkeit) – ein Endlosgarn aus Zellulose, das das Potenzial hat, mit Polyester- und Nylonfasern zu konkurrieren – stellt eine revolutionäre, erstmals auf dem Markt erhältliche und skalierbare, geschützte Bekleidungstechnologie dar, die die Herstellung eines nachhaltigen Zellulosegarns ermöglicht, das auf Kreislauffähigkeit und Recycling ausgelegt ist und erdölbasierte Fasern ersetzen könnte.

HeiQ AeoniQ-Garne werden aus zellulosehaltigen Biopolymeren hergestellt, die während des Wachstums Kohlenstoff aus der Atmosphäre binden. HeiQ AeoniQ-Garn ist dazu bestimmt, bestehende Filamentgarne auf Erdölbasis zu ersetzen, wie z.B. Polyester und Nylon, die über 60 % der weltweiten jährlichen Textilproduktion von 111 Mio. Tonnen ausmachen. Der weltweite Markt für Polyester- und Nylonfasern hat einen geschätzten Wert von 135 Milliarden USD mit einem CAGR von >3,5 % im nächsten Jahrzehnt (Statista). Für jede durch HeiQ AeoniQ substituierte Tonne Polyester und Nylon können potenziell bis zu 5 Tonnen CO2 eingespart werden.

Im Vergleich zu konventionellem Polyester, Nylon, Baumwolle und konventionellen regenerierten Zelluloseprodukten hat die Produktion von HeiQ AeoniQ-Garnen das Potenzial, die Umweltauswirkungen der Faserproduktion zu verändern, da sie zirkulär angelegt ist, 100% erneuerbare Energie für die Herstellung verwendet, einen geschlossenen Recyclingkreislauf von mehr als 99,5% der Produktionsfaktoren aufweist, keine giftigen Chemikalien verwendet und keine Ackerflächen, Pestizide oder Düngemittel für ihre Rohstoffe benötigt.

Over 400 employees work hard every day to improve the environmental performance of Radici Yarn’s site. Through teamwork and continuous improvement in energy efficiency, Radici Yarn has obtained ISO 50001 Energy Management Systems certification, which attests to the organization’s commitment to contain and progressively reduce energy consumption.

Radici Yarn, one of the companies in the RadiciGroup Advanced Textile Solutions Business Area, is engaged in the production and sale of polyamide 6 polymer, PA6 and PA66 continuous filament and staple yarn, and other synthetic fibres, including products made of recycled or bio-based materials.

All the processes - polymerization and spinning (Villa d'Ogna plant), as well as warping and draw-warping (Ardesio plant) - are run under constant monitoring with the goal of achieving maximum energy efficiency and lower consumption. Both sites are powered by two hydroelectric power plants owned by Geogreen, a RadiciGroup partner and energy supplier. The share of energy consumption from renewable sources and reduced environmental impact (natural gas) sources  is constantly increasing.

The energy issue has always been a priority for Radici Yarn, whose products serve numerous sectors, including automotive, clothing and furnishings.

"Already at the beginning of the 1990s, Radici Yarn started investing in cogeneration, the simultaneous production of electricity and steam,” pointed out Laura Ravasio, energy manager of Radici Yarn SpA. “We have recently started up an advanced trigeneration plant – a highly efficient system that produces not only electricity and steam, but also chilled water for our production processes. One of the first results recorded in 2021 was a 30% reduction in water consumption. Thus, ISO 50001 certification seemed like the next logical step to take in formalizing a long-term approach to energy.”

The ISO 50001 certification, which is voluntary and valid for a period of three years, was added to the ISO 14001 Environmental and ISO 9001 Quality Management system certifications previously achieved by Radici Yarn.

Strict protective measures will make the industry meeting possible at the International Conference on Cellulose Fibres in Cologne on February 2 and 3, 2022. The latest innovations will be shocased: from hygiene and textiles to non-wovens and carbon fibre alternatives to lightweight construction applications. Online participation is also possible.

Cellulose fibres show an increasingly expanding wide range of applications, while at the same time markets are driven by technological developments and political framework conditions, especially bans and restrictions on plastics and increasing sustainability requirements. The conference provides rich information on opportunities for cellulose fibres through policy assessment, a session on sustainability, recycling and alternative feedstocks as well as latest development in pulp, cellulose fibres and yarns. This includes application such as non-wovens, packaging and composites.

Live at the conference, host nova-Institute and sponsor GIG Karasek GmbH will grand the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award to one of six highly interesting products, ranging from cellulose made of orange and wood pulp to a novel technology for cellulose fibre production. The presentations, election of the winner by the conference audience and the award ceremony will take place on the first day of the conference.

The conference sessions reflect the current topics of industry and research. “Strategies and Market Trends” provides an overview of the rapid development of cellulose fibres and their technological progress across the fibre market. An analysis of the key cost components of these fibres to benchmark against current cost levels will highlight future opportunities and challenges for novel textile fibres. The session will conclude with an overview of the industry's recent strategies to defossilize the fibre market.

The session “New Opportunities for Cellulose Fibres in Replacing Plastics”, focusses on questions such as: “What impact does the ban on plastics in single-use products have on the industry?” and “What are the latest regulatory issues and policy opportunities for cellulose fibres?”. This part of the conference presents new opportunities for the replacement of fossil-based insulating materials with cellulose-based technologies suitable for use in a variety of applications, from aerospace to mobility and construction.
Institutefor Ecology and Innovation

“Sustainability and Circular Economy” highlights crucial issues with regard to the overall goal of keeping the environmental impact of cellulose fibres low. A core theme of the session is the responsible use of wood and forests. With this objective, the five speakers discuss the importance of circular concepts for cellulose feedstocks. Exciting insights into the important “Hot Button Report” are offered by Canopy. The “Hot Button” report enables the producers of cellulose fibres to better understand the impact their raw materials have on forests and the climate development worldwide.

The full conference programme is available at www.cellulose-fibres.eu/program.

Comber machines from Trützschler are already trusted by customers across the textiles industry and around the globe. The TCO 21 is the latest addition to their portfolio and was built to boost productivity,  ensure quality and support increased automation.

High productivity and raw material savings
One of the key benefits of the TCO 21 is its advanced processing speed. This next-generation combing machine is able to produce at a rate of up to 600 nips per minute. the TCO 21 can also be coordinated with Trützschler’s JUMBO CANS (Ø 1.200 mm). They not only reduce yarn defects due to fewer piecings which leads to quality improvements, but also offer a higher efficiency because of their larger dimensions. This, for example, has positive effects on the number of necessary cans and can transports – and results in lower personnel costs.

Excellent yarn quality
The TCO 21 comes with COUNT MONITORING as standard. This feature makes it possible for the machine operator to define limits for count variations via an easy-to-use display. Trützschler’s DISC MONITOR system of sensors measures the count continuously, and the machine alerts the operator and switches off if the limit is exceeded. In addition, the COUNT MONITORING function also includes spectrogram analysis.

Customers can further strengthen their focus on quality by choosing to add the COUNT CONTROL function to the TCO 21. It is managed via the same easy-to-use display, and offers automatic sliver count measurement, as well as spectrogram analysis. It also automatically regulates the main draft during production to balance count variations and ensure the desired sliver count. This feature is particularly attractive for customers who manufacture blends of cotton and synthetic, as it can also be used to avoid variations in the overall yarn composition.

Automatic optimization
The TCO 21 joins the TCO 12 from Trützschler as an combing machine that offers automatic PIECING OPTIMIZER technology, and that finds the right piecing setting without a single laboratory test, because of two functions: First by adjusting the piecing time in the combing cycle (timing function). Whereas the resetting of the detaching point (piecing time) is usually a very time-consuming task, it now takes only a few minutes and is performed automatically at a push on a button. Second the customer is helped to select specific detaching curve types (curve function) for their unique requirements.

Easy operation
The TCO 21 is simple to operate and maintain. The SMART TOUCH display is fast and intuitive, and a Radio-Frequency Identification (RFID) sensor quickly identifies each user and adapts the information on the display to their individual needs. The multi-colored T-LED display provides visual indications of the machine’s status or quality parameters over large distances which enables the operator recognizing them at a glance in the entire spinning mill. The TCO 21 is built with original Trützschler electronics that ensure high performance and durability: Their intelligent cooling system, that has already proven itself in the draw frame TD 10, contributes to a longer service life by reducing the operating temperature of electronic power components. Even if components have to be replaced at some point, the customer can keep their spare parts inventory small, because they can switch also electronics spare parts flexibly between different machine types, e.g. cards and draw frames. The option to add an automatic greasing function completes the easy operation of the TCO 21.

Building a strong future. B.I.G. Yarns reveals significant investment in its next-generation Polyamide (PA) technology to help global carpet tile manufacturers meet the demands of the contract market. In addition to this key investment, the company also announces its decision to become a new producer of polyester (PET) yarns for the automotive industry.

The two announcements reinforce the business’ leadership in yarn innovation and commitment to being at the forefront of supporting changing end-market needs.

B.I.G Yarns is stepping up its focus on developing and producing one-step 3Ply PA yarns using next-generation technology to answer needs for flexibility and broader design options in the carpet tile segment. Total production capacity for one-step 3Ply yarns will increase by > 20% through new lines installed at the plant in France, creating higher output and greater supply security by serving customers from all three of its global plants.

The new lines use B.I.G. Yarns’ cutting-edge PA yarn technology which expands design, contrast and colour freedoms for carpet tile manufacturers, and increases flexibility in lot sizes. These advances enable customers to respond quickly to developments in the contract market. In addition, the new technology features a higher level of automation which improves ergonomics for B.I.G. Yarns’ employees. Importantly, it also optimizes energy use which contributes in energy savings at the French site specifically. The new production lines will be deployed from mid-2022.

To enhance support for a future of more sustainable automotive interiors, B.I.G. Yarns will enter into PET yarn production for the first time and offer a portfolio of PET yarns by the third quarter of 2022. These will be available for automotive applications alongside its EqoCycle® recycled-based PA6 yarns.

Kai-Chieh Kuo, PhD student at the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University, was awarded the German Textile Mechanical Engineering 2021 Best Master's Thesis Award for his master's thesis entitled "Modification of the tube weaving process of fine yarns for the production of woven ultra-low profile stent grafts". The prize is endowed with 3,500€. Peter D. Dornier, Chairman of the Board of the Walter Reiners-Stiftung (Foundation), virtually presented the award on the occasion of the ADD International Textile Conference on 9 November 2021.

Minimally invasive endovascular aortic repair (EVAR) with textile stent-graft systems is nowadays a clinically established therapy procedure for the treatment of abdominal aortic aneurysms (AAA) – pathological bulges of the aorta. Due to the thick profile of the folded stent graft systems, there is currently a high risk of injuring narrowed or highly angulated access vessels from the inside during implantation. Stent graft systems with smaller profiles could provide an improvement, which could overcome complicated access routes through a lower bending stiffness. One possible approach for reducing the system profiles is the use of thin-walled tubular woven fabrics made of ultrafine multifilament yarns (≤20 dtex) as graft material.

Up to now, it has not been possible to process the fine yarns with the required high thread density (>200 threads/cm) and the available weaving technology in order to guarantee sufficient tightness against blood.

In his master's thesis, Kai-Chieh Kuo made high-density tubular weaving of ultra-fine filament yarns possible for the first time by means of suitable modifications to a shuttle loom as well as adaptations in the weaving preparation. In particular, he developed a new innovative reed technology that reduces warp thread friction during the shedding process and thus improves the process stability of the dense tube weaving process of fine yarns.

With the help of the process modification, it was then possible to produce high-density, thin-walled tubular woven fabrics, which were positively evaluated with regard to their suitability for a stent graft. Above all the potential of these tubular fabrics lies in their extremely thin-walled fabric profile, which seals well against blood. By using these new types of tubular fabrics as graft material for stent grafts, the system profile of the folded stent graft system can be reduced without having to compromise the blood tightness of the implant. The technology developed by Mr Kuo is not only applicable to stent graft systems, but also offers great possibilities for use in all other endovascular implants such as trans catheter heart valves, covered stents and small-lumen vascular prostheses.

Global energy consumption reached a record high in 2019, following a 40-year trend for rapidly increasing energy demand that was only halted by the Coronavirus pandemic. It’s estimated that more than 80 % of this energy is still generated from fossil fuels that produce CO2 emissions and contribute to climate change. Renewable energy offers a solution to this problem, but saving energy whenever possible is an even more effective approach. That are the motives for Trützschler to develop the intelligent card TC 19i, which sets a new benchmark for energy-efficient carding.

The intelligent Trützschler card TC 19i features the unique T-GO gap optimizer, which continuously and automatically monitors and adjusts the carding gap to an ideal position during production. Innovative drive- and air technology further reduce energy consumption of the TC 19i.

The most energy-intensive elements in a carding machine are the drive, the dust suction process and the compressed air system. Permanent suction is needed to remove dust and cotton waste in key places. Smart optimization of these areas has made the intelligent card TC 19i a benchmark for energy efficiency in carding because it uses less electricity, lower suction pressure and less compressed air than other machines, while providing the highest production rates currently available on the market.

In a head-to-head comparison between the TC 19i and a high-performance card from a competitor, the TC 19i consumed at least 10 % less energy per kilogram of material produced when manufacturing rotor yarn from a cotton and cotton waste mix. The compared energy values included electric power consumption and energy required for suction and compressed air and were measured in both cards at the same production of 180 kg/h. A 10 % reduction in energy per kilogram of sliver produced, as proven here by TC 19i, can have a significant impact on a spinning mill’s profitability; annual savings worth a five-digit sum are frequently possible, depending on factors such as the output of the mill. The customer trial also showed TC 19i’s excellent reliability at the customer’s usual production rate of 180 kg/h, and even demonstrated stable performance at 300 kg/h in the same application. Because the TC 19i with T-GO gap optimizer realizes maximum production rates at no compromise in quality, manufacturers can reduce their energy demand and investment costs drastically: Less machines are needed to achieve the desired output, and energy consumption per production is reduced.

This improvement was made possible by a long and sometimes challenging innovation process involving mathematical models of air flows, as well as flow simulations and prototypes. By combining the final flowoptimized parts in the TC 19i, Trützschler’s experts have developed a card that operates with suction pressure of just -740 Pa and with an air requirement of only 4200 m³/h. This translates into 40 % less energy demand for air technology compared to the latest high-performance competitor model.