From the Sector

• Interfilière Paris, 6th-8th July 2019, booth D60

Able to offer an alchemy of design and sustainable innovation, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of the Parisian tradeshow for lingerie with a range of innovations capable of combining innovation, aesthetics and quality. "Ethical" lace and stockings, where quality standards go hand in hand with fashion content, respecting both the environment and humans, an offer already selected among the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking Exhibition of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, for its value in the field of responsible innovation.

Experts in the production of stretch lace since 1985, ILUNA today represents the largest European laces’producer. Thanks to the effectiveness of their responsible innovation strategy, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko –Tex®).
A relevant achievement for the firm that, thanks to the Green Label collection, now even richer, make responsible innovation an asset for production that focuses on smart ingredients as ROICA Eco-Smart™ family and Q-Nova® by Fulgar.

A range that culminates today in the launch of an athleisure and sporty-chic capsule collection that perfectly fit the contemporary modern wardrobe, result of a qualified and totally traceable supply chain, from yarn up to garment, based on design, sustainability and performance.

Of major interest is the fact that the Iluna fashion R&D based its strategic choice for the AI2020/2021 on the extension of the offer with new Black label’s developments between lace and embroidery, the premium R&D line.

The range of new Ultralight multicolor laces offers jacquardtronic and textronic 4 or 5 colours galloons with a 3D effect. The change of the color of thread in the background as well as in the design gives life to unique coordinated solutions for creatives. The match between expectations of brands and retailers are met always keeping as a priority the contemporary design, that is integrated to unique strategy committed to responsibility both at corporate and product level.

To ILUNA smart innovation is not just a project, its space at Interfilière where visitors will have the chance to discover the new collection and above all to experience and touch latest boundaries of lace smart innovations pursued staying true to the values the brand. Iluna team is pleased to welcome you with a special cadeaux created in collaboration with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei.

Artisan craft, experience and high eco-technological specialization: the great tradition of fabrics for shirts which styles the future.

Search for quality, the ability to interpret elegance and a product inspired by tradition, though always trendy: these are the distinctive traits which define the vocation of Canclini 1925, a point of reference worldwide for shirt fabric manufacturing. This expertise is implemented through dynamic creativity and 100% Made in Italy artisan  craft. These are the foundations which make the history and capability of Canclini 1925 unique, as standard bearer for everlasting style.

All this results from an authentic family tradition which, for three generations, has been the driving force of the company, shaping each collection. This passion is at the service of tireless search in terms of style and technology which underlies the whole Canclini 1925 innovative approach. The goal is to offer, through its fabrics, an inimitable experience, “creating wellbeing” and emotion through touch alone, respecting the environment and humans.

Founded in 1925, Canclini has always been a company able to combine extraordinary creativity and product care, established as a silk factory in the Como region. This tradition was renewed in the 1960s with the shift to the cotton sector, aiming more and more at customer service, developing a partnership and trust relation. Working with Canclini 1925 means reaching into the tradition of a family which has always been passionate about its work, dynamic, creative and focused on continuous innovation.

These are distinctive and qualifying elements in the Canclini 1925 approach. An approach which, in line with the research and development pathway on which the company has always invested substantial resources, also involves considerable attention the topic of environmental and social accountability. This commitment is confirmed by numerous and prestigious certifications in the company portfolio, starting from the careful selection of raw materials to its social commitment. More specifically, Canclini 1925 has been awarded the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), SUPIMA COTTON (the Pima “Gossypium Barbadense” cotton, classified as Extra-long Staple) certifications, following the Standard 100 by OECO-TEX®, BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and GRS (Global Recycle Standard). A comprehensive range of tools which, combined with its in-house know-how and expertise capital, enhances the portfolio of Canclini 1925 branded innovations.

This accountability approach also encompasses the social area with the association “Un sorriso in più” (“One extra smile”). Founded and managed by the company, it is a non-profit organisation engaged in projects which include assistance in nursing homes to elderly persons without family ties, as well as in the support to children living difficult and disadvantaged family situations, focusing its activity on “human life quality”. The uniqueness generated by this meeting between tradition and innovation is the driving force behind corporate research, as well as the truly distinctive reason for its style and technology development. The high-performance looms and technologies used make the company strong and flexible enough for contemporary market requirements. The trademark passion of the Canclini family completes the picture within which the company operates, true to an approach which is at the same time artisan and high-tech, a point of reference in Italy and worldwide.

Thanks to its substantial manufacturing capacity, Canclini today is present on all of the most influential shirt markets worldwide, and – with its new Blue 1925 line - also in the denim world. In this way the company has succeeded in positioning itself among major players in textile manufacturing, authentically Italian because of its farsighted  business vision, care for details and production flexibility. It is the approach which – over the years - has allowed the group to take over important enterprises in the sector, for example Hausmann-Moos and Profilo Tessile, Maglificio Mida and Grandi & Rubinelli.
According to Simone Canclini, CEO of Canclini 1925: “What characterises the Canclini 1925 spirit is first and foremost genuine passion driven by our inspiring principles: quality, style and service. These elements have allowed us to become and remain a point of reference worldwide, to rediscover the everyday – basic and exciting – emotion of choosing a special shirt”.

Miles Johnson and Creative Room™ designed a capsule collection “Light on the Land”, for men and women to showcase ISKO™’s R- TWO™ program.

As the world’s leading ingredient denim brand, ISKO™ is at the forefront of the sustainable and responsible fashion movement. ISKO™, who loves to partner with likeminded designers, brands and retailers in the  industry that have a passion for Responsible Innovation™, is proud to announce its partnership with renowned British fashion designer Miles Johnson. Together they have created a visionary collection that will be launched at a private showing event on September 12th, at the Fremin Gallery in New York City.

For those who love denim and cherish the planet, this partnership is a perfect match as  Miles is known for prioritizing sustainability and responsibility in his work. Miles has held leadership positions such as Design Director at Levi Strauss & Co. and Senior Creative Director of Product Design and Development at Patagonia, Inc., where he served as a pioneer in creating clothing using sustainably sourced materials. For this capsule collection, Miles worked side by side with ISKO™’s Research & Development team utilizing the ISKO R-TWO™ program which combines a mix of reused and recycled materials. The reused cotton comes from ISKO™’s own production loss, which they continuously track and trace. This has the CCS (Content Claim Standard) certification. They combine this reused cotton with recycled polyester derived from PET bottles. Depending on the content, fabrics can have the RCS (Recycled Claim Standard) certification or GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

The creative direction for the collection takes form with “Light on the Land” and the whole collection is made using low impact materials and responsible finishing techniques. Miles and the ISKO™ team carefully crafted 34 designs at the Creative Room™ in Italy. The styles incorporate responsible design principles which include:

• Minimal washing;
• Removable trims made of eco-metal;
• Natural based buttons and labels;
• Green bar tacks;
• Embroidered rivets.

Environmental messages are embroidered on six of the pieces, by the artist Giulio Miglietta. The garments are built to last and the more you wear these pieces, the more beautiful they become.

“CO.LAB was created as a prompt answer responding to the very end-users increasing demand for responsible and sustainable products.” Explains C.L.A.S.S. founder GiusyBettoni. “From here, we realised it was fundamental to create an innovation wardrobe and smart platform open to companies willing to make a difference in the textile and fashion business. We teamed up with TINTEX, the leading manufacturer of ‘naturally advanced’ jersey fabrics, and other leading  garment manufacturers such as Becri, Confetil and Pedrosa & Rodriguesto create a multileveled set of skills ranging from fabrics making to style development, production as well as marketing and communication. All in name of design driven by sustainability.”

• Circularity at the centre

PG DENIM, the designer project by Paolo Gnutti, is ready for several important events scheduled for the autumn with ground-breaking interpretations and a new – increasingly green – business model. The occasion is its participation in the Blue Zone at Munich Fabric Start (Munich, 3-5 September 2019), a space which is increasingly often reserved for companies and projects with a high innovation rate in the world of denim.

PG DENIM at the German exhibition will be presenting important product innovations, but most notably new concepts developed for the S/S 2021 season. The focus here is on circularity, seen from a dual perspective: the product with the no longer traditional alternation of seasons, and a sustainabilityoriented approach.

Seasons meet

The new PG DENIM approach is geared towards overlapping seasonality, with less and less marked separations between projects dedicated to the spring-summer and fall-winter lines. The collections by PG DENIM can thus be increasingly defined as a “mix of products without seasonality”. Its focal points are innovation alongside the concept behind the initial idea, as opposed to just the season. This trend, explains Paolo Gnutti, CEO and R&D Head at PG DENIM, is also due to registering the fact that seasonality – in terms of environment and trends – is changing at an increasingly rapid pace. As a response to this situation, the choice has been made to design new collections starting from macro-trends and presenting fabrics for garments which are “easy to wear”, suitable for both warm and cold temperatures, in a true melting pot  of weights and sizes.

The lines for the previous season are thus reintroduced and restyled playing with weights and sizes, within a range where flock meets ultra-light fabric bases, or where vinyl is combined with typically summer weights which shift the fabric towards the world of “paper” with crispy touches, resulting in extraordinarily lightweight and strong items at the same time. Also the GARAGE DENIM has been upgraded with fluid and smoothed touched for garments which are easy to wear and have a strong personality.

Partnership with The Denim Window

The PG DENIM season is also enhanced by its partnership in The Denim Window project, which has resulted in a limited series of Creative Capsule Collections, derived from the idea of bringing together companies which had already worked or were working together, trying to highlight – through small capsule collections – the best of what had already been produced by traditional businesses. This has resulted  in three trailblazing capsules, two of which designed in partnership by PG DENIM and companies the likes of M&J Group, Cadica and Greenwear. Several copies of these collections have been made to travel the world, and – after the official presentation in July – they will have a special corner, The Denim Window, in the Bluezone at Munich Fabric Start.

The “Circular Programme” and the five “Rs” of sustainability

Also the PG DENIM approach to accountability in production processes has been enhanced by implementing the “Circular Programme”. As part of our corporate vision, Italian-style production is combined with compliance with what have become known as “the five Rs”, that is to say key concepts underlying the design and manufacturing model: Reduce (everything you are not using), Repair (everything you can), Reuse (anything available to you), Recycle (all that is left), Respect (everything around you).

This is the philosophy underlying each individual process at PG DENIM, and leading to new specific programmes which have been its business focus over the past few months:

1) Reducing the environmental impact during the fabric dyeing phase in reaction and sulphurbased processes, where the use of chemicals has been reduced by 40%, water consumption by 50% and CO2 emissions by 60%, which has also resulted in better penetration and a better result in the crocking process. This has led to producing 10 new articles which will be launched on the market.

2) Recycling all waste from processing and after use, creating a range of garments where cotton is actually obtained from regenerating these two kinds of waste. In this regard, PG DENIM for now is the only company on the market able to process with a percentage of recycled product exceeding 60% of the total, whereas the average for this kind of manufacturing is generally about 35%.

As regards regular production, on the other hand, PG DENIM follows stringent international standards, including Dtox, Reach and Gots in all its processing phases, also using BCI cottons and the Organic Cotton Standard for raw materials. Last but not least, it was recently awarded the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

• Ice, style and performance

These are the keywords which describe the new eclectic creations by the Riri Group for the Fall Winter season 2020-2021: a journey through the winter, its atmosphere and its colours Mendrisio, September 2019 - Première Vision Paris (17 - 19 September) will set the stage for the new proposals for the Fall Winter 2020-21 collection by the Riri Group, a leading brand in the zip and button manufacturing sector for high couture and outdoor apparel. A preview of the new collection by the Swiss group will take place at Munich Fabric Start (3 – 5 September).

COLOURS, MATERIALS AND TEXTURES

Winter landscapes and polar tones have inspired the colours of this new collection: nuances of grey, azure and white remind us of the typical tones of ice; also dominant is the presence of blue, intense and rich in contrast thanks to the attractive green inserts; black interventions are then harmoniously inserted as part of the colour palette, creating an appealing interplay of colour references. Tapes, pullers and chains provide new pleasant tactile sensations and unexpected visual inputs, through the search for always new processing methods the iceberg effect reproduced with a laser system, the texture reminding us of snake skin, from marble effect to horn processing, and freehand diamond turning, as well as the three-dimensional drop varnishing and the stylish mother-of-pearl effect.

NOVELTIES

The guiding thread for the new “Winterstorm” collection is the use of nuanced colours and ‘ice-like’ effects, reminding us of winter landscape and climates, as in the new Decor Cristal zip with transparent chain or in the Aquatyre zip, available also in a new luminescent version. Among the new creations, the Metal 3H zip stands out: the smallest and most innovative in the collection, lightweight and with a streamlined design. The provocations for this fall-winter have reached extreme levels, with a zip made of synthetic fur and incorporated buttons, whose cover can be removed and then reapplied, to face polar temperatures with a touch of glamour. Alongside the most fashionable novelties, the research by the Riri group does not cease to surprise in the outdoor sector also as regards buttons. This is confirmed by Rislide, the snap closure with a nylon body and Zama button. The innovative b-lock pressure button – with high lateral hold – has been restyled with a silicone shaped head in three colours. As part of a collection characterised by style and performance elements, it is definitely worth mentioning Zero, also in its invisible version: this button – thanks to its elegant design, combines practicality and style without compromising on performance.

At Munich Fabric Start, TINTEX introduces a new holistic approach to creating textiles that is built on the company’s DNA since 1998 for market leading, natural based, smart and responsible innovation

TINTEX is a unique fabric expert in materials and processes, and is introducing new levels of service to the market. First with the new Colorau® Natural Dye commercial innovation, and secondly with the TINTEX E-Commerce service that connects creativity with easy, direct-to-designer product sourcing.

The third innovation expands the company vision and influence into garment production with the SMART WARDROBE CO.LAB, a new supply chain cooperation working with three leading Portuguese makers.

But first you come and enjoy the unique touch and feel of the latest TINTEX Naturally Advanced fabrics with on-trend innovations enhanced by the new non-salt Colorau® Natural Dye process. This award-winning coloration technology fuses science, and creative innovation as a responsible evolution of better products that can now supply batches over 20kg.

The new A/W 20/21 collection starts from the concept of “WEME”: a Naturally Advanced offer that represents a multifaceted world. WE and ME refers to more than just the individual, but also about community and a collective spirit that seeks to grow the intellectual and spiritual individual needs in a responsive and collective way. It is a nuanced platform to discover a range of unique developments that embody the TINTEX identity through responsible innovation and creativity. Smart ingredients and processes drive innovation enhanced by the TINTEX unique dyeing and finishing expertise.

Art-Invest und Breuninger holen das Modemagazin in die Landeshauptstadt und feiern gemeinsam 40 Jahre Vogue.

AM 6. SEPTEMBER 2019: VOGUE JUBILÄUM AM KÖ-BOGEN DÜSSELDORF

Die Modeinstanz Vogue kommt nach Düsseldorf: Am 6. September 2019 steht die nordrhein-westfälische Landeshauptstadt ganz im Zeichen von Mode und Lifestyle. Gemeinsam mit dem offiziellen Sponsor Mercedes-Benz Rhein-Ruhr, holen die Kö-Bogen-Eigentümer Art-Invest sowie der Department Store Breuninger das führende deutsche Modemagazin Vogue für ein Fashion-Festival zurück nach Düsseldorf, um gemeinsam das 40. Jubiläum der Modeinstanz zu feiern. Talks mit der Vogue Redaktion, Fashion Präsentationen sowie exklusive Mercedes-Fahrzeugpräsentationen laden Fashion- und Lifestyle-Begeisterte an den Düsseldorfer Kö-Bogen.

• Undergarments, pajamas and bed linens tested for months
• Moisture management of fibers reduce sweating and hence itching
• Soft and smooth fibers lead to fewer skin injuries

The Lenzing Group has been providing both financial support and textiles made of its fibers to DEBRA Austria, the patient organization for “butterfly children”. The TENCEL™ branded lyocell and modal fibers which are being used are particularly soft and smooth and therefore very skin-friendly. In turn, they help to improve the quality of life for the “butterfly children”.

In recent months, several patients with the skin disorder Epidermolysis Bullosa (EB) have tested leggings, undergarments, pajamas, leggings, quilts and bed linens made of TENCEL™ fibers and have found them to be comfortable and skin-friendly. The skin of EB patients is fragile like the wings of a butterfly. For this reason, coarse fibers, scratching seams, buttons, zippers and fibers which hardly or do not at all absorb sweat frequently lead to additional blisters and sores and increased itching. In contrast, TENCEL™ fibers feature particularly good moisture management and thus support the nature temperature-regulating properties of the body.

Reinach, Switzerland  - Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, recently launched at the ITMA exhibition its new Foron® SP-WF, a range of high wet-fast disperse dyes for sportswear and active wear applications.

The Foron® SP-WF dyes are especially suited for the coloration of polyester fibers and microfibers, and polyester/elastane blends, in exhaustion application.
The Foron® SP-WF dyes were developed in compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable, economically and ecologically.

The new product is at the core of Archroma's Fast Sport, a coloration system for polyester knitted sportswear, providing the best fastness in the shortest possible time with a reduced environmental footprint.
The Foron® SP-WF range which includes primary and ternary color grades has been developed to fulfil the high color wet fastness and performance requirements of sportswear manufacturers and brands.
Moreover, the core ternary color grades enable deep shades at lower dyeing temperatures on sensitive polyester/elastane fabrics without causing excessive fiber damage, saving energy resources and meeting the high fastness demand of leading brand companies.

When using Foron® SP-WF dyes as part of the Fast Sport system, manufacturers can in many cases have the potential to significantly reduce their consumption of time, energy, chemical, and water, as well as their CO2 emissions.

“We see a growing demand for apparel in the sportswear and active wear segment, reinforced with the now installed athleisure trend,” says Mark Dohmen, Head of Archroma’s Competence Center Automotive and Synthetic Dyes. “Consumers want deep color that stays put on the fiber and brands are defining their requirements accordingly. With our Foron® SP-WF, we can offer to manufacturers of sportswear textiles a solution that combines high levels of wet fastness with high productivity and low resource consumption. Because it’s our nature!”