From the Sector

The Aachen-based start-up SA-Dynamics is developing sustainable, bio-based and biodegradable insulation materials made from aerogel fibres, thereby setting new standards in resource-saving construction. Dr Sascha Schriever (Institut für Textiltechnik ITA), Maximilian Mohr (ITA), Dr Jens Hofer (ITA Postdoc) and Dr Christian Schwotzer (Department for Industrial Furnaces and Heat Engineering IOB), who trained at RWTH Aachen University, were awarded first place in the KUER.NRW Business Plan Competition 2023 and prize money of €6,000.

SA-Dynamics relies on the impressive properties of aerogel fibres: they have excellent insulating properties, are lightweight, durable, robust, versatile and can be processed very well on conventional textile machines thanks to their flexibility. This makes them comparable to polystyrene, but still sustainable, as SA Dynamics uses bio-based and biodegradable raw materials.

"We can revolutionise the construction world with bio-based aerogel fibres," explains ITA founder Dr Sascha Schriever proudly. "If all insulation materials in construction are converted to bio-based aerogel fibres, all builders can realise their dream of a sustainable house."

SA Dynamics has come a good deal closer to its founding goal by winning the KUER.NRW 2023 business plan competition. The spin-off from Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) and Department for Industrial Furnaces and Heat Engineering (IOB) at RWTH Aachen University is scheduled for spring 2025.

The Fashion for Good museum in Amsterdam marks its 6 year journey with a special fashion exhibition focused on circularity, called What Goes Around Comes Around. Honing in on how circularity plays out in different circles of influence, the exhibition showcases inspirational displays that make tangible what a circular fashion industry will look like.

What Goes Around Comes Around pays homage to the extraordinary work of pioneering artists, innovators and designers working to shift the fashion industry with new solutions. The exhibition opens January 27, 2024 and will be open to the public for 5 months. It is the grand finale, as the Museum is closing its doors. As such it will be the Museum’s final call to collective action, which the fashion industry still so highly needs.

“We are highlighting three areas in What Goes Around Comes Around", explains curator Sophie Jager-van Duren at the Fashion for Good Museum. “First: new work by local artists Atelier Reservé and The Patchwork Family, design collectives working towards circularity, demonstrating what is happening right now. We are also showing looks from established designers BOTTER, Ronald van der Kemp and Marga Weimans, Yuima Nakazato and Nicole McLaughlin. Second, the community, with an installation for visitors to participate in, planting the seed that we need each other to change the fashion system. Lastly, the industry - honing in on examples of innovations and technologies. We invited designers to create new work with circular materials including Living Ink, MIRUM, Altmat and Biophilica.”

Today’s fashion industry is caught in a vicious cycle of ‘take-make-waste’ and this system has a growing negative impact on people and the planet. For instance, in Europe, the average consumer is responsible for 15 kilos of textile waste per year and these numbers are increasing. To address this, we need action from individuals, the industry and society alike to go from a linear take-make-waste model into one that is circular by design.

The Fashion for Good Museum is inviting anybody to come visit its final exhibition and learn from concrete examples, to understand the current state of the fashion industry, gain the tools for taking individual or collective action and be inspired by circular fashion available today.

Designing for circularity means designing without creating waste or pollution, as all materials are continually reused instead of discarded. A circular system is restorative and regenerative and reduces pressure on natural resources. The ultimate goal of the exhibition is to put circularity into practice, help people envision a circular economy based on community practices and empower visitors to take collective action, starting in the museum but extending to their homes and daily lives.

Through the exhibition and its public programme, which consists of interactive workshops and educational events, the museum functions as a community space where visitors are invited to learn, gain new perspectives and are exposed to inspiring examples, building the skills and knowledge to create positive change. The upcoming few months there are multiple events, educational toolkits and other opportunities to join us, all open for the public, keep an eye out on our website and social media channels for the latest updates.

The exhibition is open for the public from Saturday 27th of January until June 5th 2024, marking World Environment Day on June 5th as the final closing day of the museum.

A new research project links some of Denmark's leading researchers in PFAS remediation with artificial intelligence. The goal is to develop and optimise a new form of wastewater and drinking water treatment technology using artificial intelligence for zero-pollution goals.

In a new research and development project, researchers from Aarhus University aim to develop a new technology that can collect and break down perpetual chemicals (PFAS) in one step in a purification process that can be connected directly to drinking water wells and treatment plants.

The project has received funding from the Villum Foundation of DKK 3 million, and it will combine newly developed treatment technology from some of Denmark's leading PFAS remediation researchers with artificial intelligence that can ensure optimal remediation.

"In the project, we will design, construct and test a new, automated degradation technology for continuous PFAS degradation. We’re also going to set up an open database to identify significant and limiting factors for degradation reactions with PFAS molecules in the reactor," says Associate Professor Xuping Zhang from the Department of Mechanical and Production Engineering at Aarhus University, who is co-heading the project in collaboration with Associate Professor Zongsu Wei from the Department of Biological and Chemical Engineering.

Ever since the 1940s, PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) have been used in a myriad of products, ranging from raincoats and building materials to furniture, fire extinguishers, solar panels, saucepans, packaging and paints.

However, PFAS have proven to have a number of harmful effects on humans and the environment, and unfortunately the substances are very difficult to break down in nature. As a result, the substances continuously accumulate in humans, animals, and elsewhere in nature.

In Denmark, PFAS have been found in drinking water wells, in surface foam on the sea, in the soil at sites for fire-fighting drills, and in many places elsewhere, for example in organic eggs. It is not possible to remove PFAS from everything, but work is underway to remove PFAS from the groundwater in drinking water wells that have been contaminated with the substances.

Currently, the most common method to filter drinking water for PFAS is via an active carbon filter, an ion-exchange filter, or by using a specially designed membrane. All of these possibilities filter PFAS from the water, but they do not destroy the PFAS. The filters are therefore all temporary, as they have to be sent for incineration to destroy the accumulated PFAS, or they end in landfills.

The project is called 'Machine Learning to Enhance PFAS Degradation in Flow Reactor', and it aims to design and develop an optimal and permanent solution for drinking water wells and treatment plants in Denmark that constantly captures and breaks down PFAS, while also monitoring itself.

"We need to be creative and think outside the box. I see many advantages in linking artificial intelligence with several different water treatment technologies, but integrating intelligence-based optimisation is no easy task. It requires strong synergy between machine learning and chemical engineering, but the perspectives are huge," says Associate Professor Zongsu Wei from the Department of Biological and Chemical Engineering at Aarhus University.

Archroma is showcasing its planet conscious innovations and solution systems at this year’s Colombiatex de Las Américas, being held from January 23 to 25, 2024.

Archroma is using its attendance at Colombiatex 2024 to introduce a new concept that promises to help the region’s brands and mills optimize their productivity, add value to their products and create a positive impact on the environment: Super Systems+.

The Super Systems+ solutions offer great performance, including end-product durability, while meeting sustainability targets with cleaner chemistries that comply with current and anticipated industry regulations or deliver resource savings, or both. Solutions are currently available for popular end-use segments, from denim to cotton and poly-cotton knits.

For black denim with a cleaner environmental footprint, brands and mills can choose DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK to create unique shade and wash-down effects with an overall impact reduction of 57% compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid.* For authentic blue denim, Archroma’s aniline-free** pre-reduced DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ produces coveted indigo colors with the same performance and efficiency as conventional indigo dye, but in a more planet-friendly way.

To embrace circularity and create natural shades on cellulosic-based fibers including cotton, kapok, linen and viscose, brand owners can now turn to Archroma’s patented EarthColors® technology. It makes high-performance biosynthetic dyes from non-edible natural waste, such as almond shells, bitter orange residues and cotton production byproducts, helping conserve natural resources. For next-generation processing of polyester and its blends, Archroma’s ERIOPON® E3-SAVE all-in-one auxiliary combines pre-scouring, dyeing and reduction clearing in a single bath to achieve substantial savings of water, energy and time.

For weather protection and stain resistance that is both economically and environmentally sustainable, Archroma Super Systems+ draw on an extensive portfolio of fluorine-free durable water repellents.

* Ecotarrae lifecycle analysis
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods

Solvay has announced capacity expansions at its Resolest®* and Solval® units, specifically designed for recycling residues from the flue gas cleaning process using the market-leading SOLVAir® solution. The rising demand for this advanced technology stems from the enforcement of stringent environmental standards governing emissions across various industries. By the end of 2025, Resolest® is poised to undergo a significant 60% surge in recycling capacity. Likewise, commencing January 2024, Solval® is set to witness a substantial 30% increase in its capacity.

Growth, digitalisation and re-commerce – the forthcoming INNATEX (the international trade fair for sustainable textiles) is devoted to highly topical themes. From 20 to 22 January 2024 at the Messecenter Hofheim Rhein-Main near Frankfurt, over 200 exhibitors will be meeting up with retailers, experts and journalists. The motto for the winter trade fair is GROW, representing the call for sustainable, social and commercial growth that will not be possible without the green fashion movement.

Optimistic expectations despite the challenges
According to Alexander Hitzel, INNATEX Project Manager, and the organisers, MUVEO GmbH, various new trends are opening up that might, if exploited strategically, unlock new business areas. These range from ‘quiet luxury’, travel, internationalism and focused storytelling to services for specific target groups. On the Monday, members of the expert panel will be discussing re-commerce with the Hessen Retail Federation in the Community Lounge.

From storytelling to digital tools – the INNATEX themes
“Second-hand is in fashion,” says Julia Frings of IFH Köln. “Sales of used and recycled products have been on an upward trend for some years now and with the rising importance of sustainability, their relevance will continue to grow. There is great potential in this area for the trade to reach new target groups and expand the range on offer. To be successful, though, it is essential to have a concept tailored to the needs of consumers.”

Alongside Julia Frings of IFH Köln, other Federation panellists will include Steffen Riegel of Hessnatur. The first Lounge Talk at the start of INNATEX will deal with Strategies for Sensible Growth, borrowing from the motto for the fair. This topic will be followed by Fair Wages in the Global South, Storytelling as a Strategy, and Digital Trends.

Brand portfolio and partners of INNATEX
The collaboration with the Hessen Retail Federation, like that with Fashion Changers and Greenstyle Munich, has already proved its worth at previous fairs, as a way of adding variety to a well balanced fair programme. The new collaborative partners include AMD Academy of Fashion and Design (AMD) in Wiesbaden, the Fashion Campus 2030 Initiative and the Enterprise Europe Network (EEN, a network promoting internationalisation among smaller and medium-sized businesses).

The brand portfolio includes fashion for all generations, tastes and occasions. Labels exhibiting for the first time include businesses such as Fuza Wool from Denmark with its high quality traditional knitwear, and the hemp-based accessories of 8000Kicks from Portugal. The DESIGN DISCOVERIES comprise Anfisa Roumelidi, C/OVER and Consci.

Devan will showcase the newest additions to their R-Vital NTL Range and Thermic High Cooling technology.

R-Vital® NTL enables textile manufacturers to boost their textiles with a range of active, natural ingredients that have a positive effect on the body and mind. Elements such as Chamomile oil and Arnica Montana are absorbed by the skin and have relaxing, moisturizing or hydrating effects. The biobased content of the R-Vital well-being technology is +97%, readily biodegradable (OECD 301B).

R-Vital® NTL Regenight™: Devan and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics join forces to launch a ground-breaking technology, R-Vital NTL Regenight™, a technology which improves sleep quality and also improves nighttime skin recovery. Using an upcycled oil soluble fraction obtained from Australian Tea tree oil distillation process, Regenight™ acts through both inhalation to improve nighttime rest and through topical action to provide skin recovery.

Tested in real-life context using proven biometric technology, the dual action provided individually by Regenight™ proposes a breakthrough approach to reduce the impact of poor-quality sleep on the skin.

R-Vital® NTL Chamomile oil: Chamomile oil is known for its moisturizing and soothing properties. Additionally, this oil is believed to have antioxidant and inflammatory properties. Furthermore, chamomile oil is renowned for its calming effects and potential to reduce stress and anxiety, helping improve sleep quality.

R-Vital® NTL Warming: Engineered to deliver a gentle warmth, the R-Vital NTL Warming technology ensures a cozy and comfortable sleeping experience. This blend is a solution that infuses a sense of warmth, promoting physical and emotional well-being.

R-Vital NTL Arnica Montana: Harnessing the natural benefits of Arnica Montana, this ingredient, is celebrated for its potent healing and recovering properties.

At Heimtextil Devan will also present a new high cooling technology that provides an optimal and refreshing sleeping climate, ensuring a cool and restful night's sleep. Thermic High Cooling is based on reactive microencapsulated Phase Change Materials (PCMs). The smart heat exchange mechanism keeps the body within its comfort zone. This makes the body suffer less from night sweats, and results in a longer, healthier and more comfortable sleep with fewer awakenings. This new formulation with high cooling level and high solid content, presents around 30% more cooling than standard PCM formulations. One padding allows to achieve high cooling level (no need to run multiple applications). A Bio-based version is also available - Thermic® Bio, where the PCMs are derived from sustainable, natural sources.

The Tuscan tannery Vesta Corporation has presented to its stakeholders a report outlining its current commitment and future objectives, with a view to innovating, safeguarding and fostering high-end leather material processing.

Ever since it was founded in 1966 in Ponte a Egola, the Tuscan hub for the production of leather for vegetable tanned soles, Vesta has been a supplier and partner of haute couture and sportswear brands, from lightweight calf and half-calf leather, to heavy leathers made with hind and rump hide, for leatherware and shoes.

To draft this Report, reference was made to the “Global Reporting Initiative Sustainability Reporting Standards” established by the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI). The information in the balance sheet refers to the year 2022 (from 1 January to 31December 2022). Wherever possible, data for the previous year are included, to allow for a comparison of data over time and to assess the trend of Vesta activities. Sustainability is an objective-driven process. This means that comparing data allows for concretely measuring the company’s progress, as it pursues this accounting process year after year.

The improvement actions already implemented by Vesta involve corporate responsibility from an environmental, social and governance perspective. An example are the improved heating and processing plants (which entails the construction of a new tumbling department based on 4.0 technology). This guarantees significant energy, water and economic savings. Along with numerous corporate certifications, the company has passed the Raw Material Traceability test with a score of EXCELLENT, as well as the Carbon and Water footprint analysis.

As confirmation of its commitment to improving corporate performance levels, Vesta has been upgraded from BRONZE (2020) to GOLD in 2023, as assessed by the Leather Working Group (which measures leather manufacturers’ environmental performance for ecological production and for a systemic management of quality, environmental, safety and ethical factors).

Becoming energy-independent is a major step in the pipeline, involving the installation of a photovoltaic plant. This is complemented by the implementation of a project aimed at totally compensating its CO2 emissions for the year subject to accounting and certification. This neutrality will be achieved through the acquisition of credits deriving from projects certified by the United Nations. For example, with the construction of an important hydro-electric plant to which Vesta is contributing. With regard to production, corporate research is currently focused on developing solutions to reduce water and energy use. It is also implementing circular trends by adopting an increasing number of bio-based products, to guarantee the most sustainable end-of-life and waste management for its products.

Panda Biotech announced that building construction is complete and the official commissioning process to bring its Panda High Plains Hemp Gin™ (the “Panda Hemp Gin”) project online began in early Q4. The commissioning process marks the final stage before beginning commercial operations in Q1 2024 at the 500,000 square foot Wichita Falls, Texas facility. The Panda Hemp Gin will process 10 metric tons of industrial hemp per hour to produce textile-grade fiber, hurd, short-fiber hurd mix, and a nutrient-rich co-product that will be pelletized. The facility is expected to be the largest hemp decortication center in the Western Hemisphere and among the largest in the world.

Using only renewable energy sources, the engineering and production process at the Panda Hemp Gin has been certified green by Mid-South Engineering Company, in accordance with the International Capital Market Association’s Green Bond Principles. Panda Biotech has also partnered with Oritain, a scientific traceability company, to bring the most traceable hemp grown 100 percent in the United States to market.

Additionally, Panda Biotech is actively signing contracts with producers to grow the hemp feedstock for the 2024 growing season, as well as purchasing hemp fiber that has already been harvested or processed. The company recently unveiled an unmatched pay-to-grow program for producers to begin growing Panda hemp. With up-front, guaranteed money and agronomy support, Panda producers also receive tested and proven seed at no cost, successfully mitigating the risk producers may assume and underscoring Panda’s commitment and promise to the farming community. The benefits of growing hemp are substantial, as it is an excellent rotational crop that remediates the soil and provides a competitive margin.

“Each piece of the Panda Hemp Gin production line, including the three miles of overhead pneumatic duct lines, refining, blending, mechanical cottonization, hurd bagging and storage, baling, and more, must be individually started, checked, balanced, and commissioned,” says Panda Biotech Executive Vice President Scott Evans. “Currently, all equipment is individually being brought online to be officially placed in service.”

HeiQ’s biobased textile technologies are set to show how they can change the sleep environment for the better while meeting an increasing demand for sustainable solutions that are in tune with nature. HeiQ Skin Care, HeiQ Allergen* Tech, HeiQ Cool, and HeiQ Mint are going to be showcased at the Heimtextil show in Frankfurt beginning of January.

HeiQ presents a complete set of tailored textile technologies that is said to improve the sleeping environment: "Unlocking Better Sleep". Therefore, HeiQ introduces a range of innovative products designed to enhance the quality of a comfortable night’s rest through sustainable and biobased solutions.

According to a recent study by the School of Architecture, Victoria University of Wellington (New Zealand), “individuals spend more than 50% of their time at home in the bedroom”. Another research from the Fatigue Countermeasures Laboratory, NASA Ames Research Center (United States), concluded that “sleep is critical to health and daytime functioning. For individuals to achieve optimal sleep, they must have access to a sleep environment that allows them to achieve quality sleep.” These are strong indicators that we should treat sleep with the highest importance that it deserves.

The flagship products leading this positive change are the 100% biobased cosmetic technology HeiQ Skin Care, the plant-based deodorizer HeiQ Mint (botanical freshness), the dual action cooling solution HeiQ Cool, and HeiQ Allergen Tech that reduces exposure to inanimate allergens through active probiotics. These biobased innovations are set to redefine the sleep experience and contribute to overall well-being.

HeiQ Skin Care is the most recent addition to HeiQ’s portfolio - a synbiotic textile finish promoting a balanced microbiome for glowing skin. Unlike conventional products, HeiQ Skin Care utilizes pre- and probiotics integrated into a biobased matrix, offering long-lasting cosmetic benefits. It is particularly suited for products that are in direct and long contact with skin, such as pillowcases, duvet covers or bed sheets, acting as a cosmetic care session during sleep.