From the Sector

Chomarat, a leader in technical textiles and composite reinforcements, is developing its Coatings & Films business at its French sites. The Group has just acquired an extruder and a graining line to increase its production capacities and develop new, more efficient solutions, particularly in the field of TPO (polyolefin thermoplastics). These two technological investments are part of the €35 million investment plan announced by the Group in mid-2017.

AN EXPANDED OFFER WITH THE NEW GRAINING LINE
The graining line gives texture to the coated textile and provides a differentiation of appearance or a functionalization, such as non-slip or durability. "We will use this new technology to broaden the scope of material we process (including the production of TPO sheets with or without backing), and to improve the perceived quality by a better grain definition," explains Philippe Chomarat, Director of the Coatings & Films business at Chomarat. This technological investment enables the Group to increase its production capacities and offer new solutions for the automotive and luxury bag markets.

INCREASING PERFORMANCE WITH THE NEW EXTRUDER
The new extruder increases the Chomarat production capacity for coated textiles and allows production in larger widths. The technology consumes less energy and emits very low level of VOCs, in line with the Group's sustainable approach. It also supplements existing solutions for developing biosourced coated fabrics. "This is a strategic investment for Chomarat, as in addition to PVC, we will be able to work with new materials such as TPO, TPU and new biosourced materials. We will offer innovative solutions for all our markets—pipes, luxury bag, automotive and protection," concludes Philippe Chomarat.

• Latex-free: UltraBond allows 100% recyclable thermal bonded nonwovens
• Sustainability & cost-efficiency: significant reductions in CO2 emissions and energy and water consumption for manufacturers of needlepunched exhibition & contract flooring
• UltraBond debuts at Domotex 2019 Stand B56 Hall 11

Beaulieu Fibres International (BFI) unveils a unique opportunity for carpet manufacturers to create fully recyclable needlepunch carpets, and benefit from production and resource savings, without influencing performance.

Launched at Domotex 2019, new UltraBond is a patented polyolefin bonding staple fibre that eliminates the need for latex or other chemical binders to bind nonwovens. It opens up a new path for creating 100% polypropylene (PP) needlepunch carpets which meet the same performance requirements as traditional latex-bonded carpets while reducing the end-of-life environmental impact. Functional properties such as pilling resistance, resistance to wear and abrasion, and also UV resistance are guaranteed.

Using UltraBond manufacturers finally gain the potential to cost-efficiently produce 100% recyclable carpets. In addition to the general benefits of making recycled PP available for the plastics production chain and reduced waste generation, environmental advantages and financial savings arise from a total lack of water and less energy use. As a 100% dry process, thermal bonding uses no water and results in a total absence of waste water. There is also a reduction in the VOC level of the carpet. This all leads to a significant reduction in a needlepunch carpet’s ecological footprint.

The sustainability benefits are quantified through lifecycle analysis (LCA) of an exhibition carpet application – among the primary applications for needlepunch carpets. Evaluations show that the absence of water consumption directly translates into a large energy saving of 93% when using UltraBond compared to a latex bonding solution, and also a potential annual water saving of over 20 million litres for 100 million m2 of exhibition applications in the EU. Without the addition of any other bonding agent, CO2 emissions are reduced by 35% over the full production process.

Karena Cancilleri, Vice President Beaulieu Engineered Products, Beaulieu International Group, commented, “Recyclability and achieving a greener, more cost-effective production process without compromising on current performance levels are significant unsolved topics within today’s carpet industry. By eliminating the need for latex and chemical binders through UltraBond, we offer needlepunch manufacturers a breakthrough they have been looking for that boosts environmental and economic sustainability. We see textile flooring as just the beginning. Together with our customers, we look forward to exploring the potential of this unique thermal bonding fibre in other applications such as laminated nonwovens or as an alternative to dry powders.”

Discover more about UltraBond from the Beaulieu Fibres International team at Stand B56 Hall 11, Domotex 2019 in Hannover, Germany from January 11-14, 2019.

For SEEK’s 10thBirthday we want to give something to those who are usually overlooked. Together with One Warm Winter, we are wrapping up Goodie Bags for the homeless and taking them where they are actually needed – to the streets. That’s why we are asking brands to donate old collection pieces, samples, stock, etc.
 
“We are really happy to team up with One Warm Winter for our SEEK donation initiative. We want to counteract the omnipresent throwaway mentality. Every step counts. Homelessness is a growing issue, especially in Berlin – we hope to bring some warmth to the city streets.”
– SEEK Team
 
“With the GiveBag the fashion industry is setting an important example in terms of awareness and sustainability. Ultimately, these bags are filled with what is often left out by the economy: true charity.”
– Dominic Czaja, One Warm Winter
 
The huge One Warm Winter GiveBag will be filled on all three show days (15–17 January) in front of the SEEK location at Arena Berlin. Every donor will receive a donation receipt and stay informed about the next steps. The GiveBags will be handed out to people in need by the SEEK team and One Warm Winter at the next charity event.

Additional support will be provided by TOMS with a requested voluntary donation in exchange for a nice hot coffee. The end sum will be matched by TOMS and donated directly to One Warm Winter.
 
“Giving is at the heart of everything we do at TOMS, but it’s projects like this that are in our own backyard that hit home the most. Homelessness is one of the issues closest to our hearts, so we couldn’t be more honoured to work with SEEK and One Warm Winter this season to lend a hand to our friends in Berlin that need it most.”
– Lisa Hogg, TOMS EMEA Marketing Director
 
The reaction from the SEEK brands towards our initiative has been amazingly positive – almost all of them are actively and enthusiastically participating by donating garments that cannot be sold anymore.
 
“Palladium Boots is very excited about this call for action and being able to take part in supporting the cause. City terrain is what we are built on and we are glad to gift a little warmth and particularly the gesture of humanity together with SEEK and One Warm Winter.”
– Melanie Bruss, Marketing Manager, Palladium Boots D, AT & NL
 
“The entire CHIEMSEE family is amazed by this initiative! It’s a great feeling to pass on some warmth and distribute it more fairly. Thank you SEEK and One Warm Winter for the idea – the fashion industry definitely needs more of those!”
– The CHIEMSEE family

• The world’s leading exhibition for additive manufacturing takes place in Frankfurt am Main every year
• With 26,919 visitors, Mesago, organiser of Formnext in Frankfurt, reported a new record with numbers up by 25% on the previous year.

This year Perlon was amongst the 632 exhibitors from 32 countries for the first time, which, represented by Pedex GmbH from Wald-Michelbach, was a co-exhibitor on a stand for companies from the German region Hesse (Hessen Trade and Invest GmbH - HTAI). Some visitors were surprised to discover that the world leading manufacturer of synthetic filaments is also active in the 3D printing filament field. That the Perlon Group, known innovation and market leader in many fields of application, with its decades of experience in the development and manufacture of filaments, has entered into the 3D printing market was well received.

The fact we actually entered the market 6 years ago, was only known to a few experts in the field. In this time, Pedex GmbH had been producing a wide range of performance filaments for a well-known German 3D printer manufacturer, who since then has distributed exclusively under its own brand. The decision, to out ourselves as producer and supplier was taken in summer 2018. This new direction has two main aims, firstly to establish ourselves in the market as a manufacturer of Perlon® 3D printing filaments, producing both small batches and high volume on an industrial scale for professional applications, but secondly and most specifically to continue along the path as a toll manufacturing partner with long-term contracts on an industrial scale.

As a partner with universities/institutions and member of various research networks, we are close to the quickly advancing developments in this field, which is why we were really pleased to welcome Dr. Andreas Baar and Dr (Ing) Thomas Neumeyer onto our stand. They are both members of RESOPT3D (Netzwerk für ressourcenoptimierten 3D-Druck), Germany’s strongest user network for 3D technologies.

Together with Conspir3D in Rheinheim and its owner Jan Giebels, who 10 years ago was a co-founder of the company German RepRap, we were able to forge a partnership to distribute Perlon® 3D printing filaments. With his support we could competently advise trade visitors about filaments and 3D printing as a collective proactive team.

Next year, Formnext will take place from 19th to 22nd November 2019 for the first time in exhibition halls 11 and 12 at the Exhibition Centre in Frankfurt am Main. This will be a debut exhibition for the USA which will be exhibiting as first partner country at Formnext. The USA has a long tradition in the field of additive manufacturing and is one of the most important international exhibiting nations.

Emphasis on Process, Third-Party Validation and Outcome-Based Testing

Canadian Linen and two U.S. AmeriPride Services Inc.’s locations have recently earned have earned the Hygienically Clean Food Safety certification, reflecting their commitment to best management practices (BMPs) in laundering as verified by on-site inspection and their capability to produce hygienically clean textiles as quantified by ongoing microbial testing. The company’s Canadian Linen and Uniform Service facilities in these locations have earned the Hygienically Clean Food Safety certification:  

• Alberta: Edmonton and Lethbridge
• British Columbia: Victoria and Vancouver/Burnaby
• Manitoba: Winnipeg
• Nova Scotia: Halifax
• Ontario: Etobicoke, London, North York and Ottawa
• Quebec: Quebec City
• Saskatchewan: Regina and Saskatoon

The recently-certified U.S. AmeriPride laundries are located in Vernon, Calif. and Durant, Miss.  
The certification confirms the laundry’s dedication to compliance and processing garments and linens using BMPs as described in its quality assurance documentation, the focal point for inspectors’ evaluation of critical control points (CCPs) that minimize risk. The independent, third-party inspection must confirm essential evidence that:

• Employees are properly trained and protected
• Managers understand legal requirements
• OSHA-compliant
• Physical plant operates effectively

In addition, these facilities each passed three rounds of outcome-based microbial testing, indicating that their processes are producing Hygienically Clean garments and other reusable textiles with diminished presence of harmful bacteria. To maintain their certification, laundry plants must pass quarterly testing to ensure that as laundry conditions change, such as water quality, textile fabric composition and wash chemistry, laundered product quality is consistently maintained.
This process eliminates subjectivity by focusing on outcomes and results that verify textiles cleaned in these facilities meet appropriate hygienically clean standards and BMPs for animal processing, dairies, fruit/vegetable, bakeries, grain and other food and beverage industry segments.
These Vernon, Calif. and Durant, Miss. locations of the AmeriPride chain join these laundries who have previously received the Hygienically Clean Food Safety certification:

• Tuscumbia, Ala.
• Bakersfield and Fresno, Calif.
• Twin Falls, Idaho
• St. Cloud and Minneapolis, Minn.
• Amarillo Texas

Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points (HACCP) practices are examined in the Hygienically Clean Food Safety inspection process, evaluating the plant’s techniques for:

• Conducting hazard analysis
• Determining CCPs, monitoring their control, correcting them if not under control
• Validating and verifying HACCP system effectiveness
• Documenting and record-keeping to show ongoing conformance

On-site inspections also evaluate practices relevant to handling and processing textile products used in food manufacturing/processing establishments for adherence to U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) directives. Introduced in 2014, Hygienically Clean Food Safety brought to North America the international cleanliness standards for laundering garments and other textile products for food manufacturing used worldwide by the Certification Association for Professional Textile Services and the European Committee for Standardization.
Twelve of the company’s U.S. locations have achieved the Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification:

• Little Rock, Ark.
• Phoenix and Watkinsville, Ga.
• Twin Falls, Idaho
• Topeka, Kan.
• Bemidji and Minneapolis, Minn.
• pringfield, Mo.
• Omaha, Neb.
• Roswell, N.M.
• Memphis, Tenn.
• Lubbock, Texas

The company’s Canadian Linen and Uniform Service facility in Lethbridge, Alberta, is also Hygienically Clean Healthcare-certified.
In January 2018, Philadelphia-based Aramark Corp. announced the completion of its acquisition of AmeriPride, making AmeriPride a wholly owned subsidiary. Aramark’s uniform rental and career apparel business is headquartered in Burbank, Calif.

CHOMARAT, the expert in composites reinforcements, is the partner of BABOLAT with its multiaxial carbon, C-PLY™ Hexagonal. Indeed, the specialist racket sports goods manufacturer is launching the new version of the BABOLAT’s Pure Aero. A combination of ultra-modern design and high performance, this tennis racket for champions has made an appearance on the courts of the Rolex Paris Masters. “We are very proud to be chosen by BABOLAT. Our new carbon reinforcement, added to the heart of the racket, enables better control and makes each shot more precise and stable,” says Pascal JOUBERT DES OUCHES, Sports Equipment Market Director at CHOMARAT.

C-PLYTM HEXAGONAL, THE PERFECT ALLIANCE OF PERFORMANCE & DESIGN
The addition of C-PLY™, CHOMARAT’s multiaxial carbon reinforcement, to the core of the BABOLAT’s Pure Aero has increased the racket’s stability while enhancing its performance. The specificity of the reinforcement lies in its stitching thread. “This unique thread brings out the color of the resin pigments because it has been designed to remain visible after its impregnation. It also contributes to extra reinforcement and an exceptional design!” concludes Pascal JOUBERT DES OUCHES.

TRSA recently held its 105th Annual Conference & Exchange from Oct. 16-18 at The Meritage Resort & Spa in Napa, CA. Nearly 250 linen, uniform and facility services executives and guests gained insights from presentations on technology and family business, plus thought-provoking panel discussions and break-out sessions. They also participated in social events and in the recognition of industry leaders at the Annual Industry Awards Dinner.

Attendees raved about the program, which drew a net promoter score of 74 (anything above 50 is considered excellent). “TRSA's Annual Conference is an excellent opportunity to catch up with old friends, make new connections in the industry, celebrate those who have contributed to our industry and learn about new best practices,” said Jim Buik, president of the Roscoe Co., Chicago. Gerard van de Donk, managing director of ABS Laundry Business Solutions/LSI Inc., added that the conference offered attendees a prime opportunity for networking. “Every time it is valuable to meet and talk with the executives in our industry,” he said. “That is helping us to define our road map toward creating history together.”

The conference began with a keynote address by Vivek Wadhwa, a technology expert and columnist for The Washington Post and Bloomberg BusinessWeek. Wadhwa’s speech looked at technological innovations. Specifically, he examined how those advances are disrupting industries today and how they will continue to do going forward. From the outset, Wadhwa promised a stirring glimpse of what’s to come. “I’m going to take you on a tour of the future,” he said. “I’m going to tell you why this is the most amazing and scary time in human history.” He proceeded to do just that, elaborating on a range of topics from medical/genetic engineering breakthroughs to progress in robotics, water treatment, nanotechnology, energy and more. For example, he noted that the cost of solar energy is dropping exponentially. Within five years, he predicted that the costs for both solar technology and battery storage units will drop by 50% or more.

Chomarat has specialized in scrim reinforcements for construction materials for more than 50 years. Now, it has invested in a new pilot production line to develop its next generation of reinforcements. Unique in the market and designed entirely by CHOMARAT’s teams, this technological innovation was born by the Group’s body of technological know-how. Conceived for the development of next generation cement board and roof-waterproofing reinforcements, the machine is versatile for developing materials for new markets. The new line will become operational in early 2019 at CHOMARAT’s construction plant in Anderson, South Carolina, USA.

A technological innovation for higher performance
The new pilot line will enable CHOMARAT to accelerate its development projects focusing on cost, performance and sustainability. The Group’s goal is to launch a new generation of laid scrim reinforcements for construction materials, with incomparable performance. “We are working on all the parameters (technological, chemical formulations, textile fibers) to optimize the performance of CHOMARAT scrims, such as protecting glass against alkali in cement or increasing impact resistance and water repellency. We plan to stay in front of economic and environmental challenges facing the construction market,” explains Raphaël PLEYNET, Director of Composites & Construction Europe at CHOMARAT.

“This pilot scrim line is a key element in the Group’s global innovation and development strategy. The technological developments achieved on this equipment will enable us to lead through innovation, meet the challenges to come for construction materials, and enhance our value to the market” adds John LEATHAM, Director of Sales and Marketing at CHOMARAT North America.

Combining expertise from textile and chemical-formulation technologies
The scrims designed and developed by CHOMARAT are reputed for their advantages: dimensional stability, laminating quality with other materials (film or veils), excellent mechanical performance, and very good protection against the alkalinity of cement. “CHOMARAT’s knowhow in laid-scrim manufacturing is based on the combined expertise in textile and chemical-formulation technologies. With this new pilot technology, CHOMARAT will be able to build on these two advantages and propose even better-performing materials!” concludes Philippe SANIAL, Director of Research & Technologies at CHOMARAT.

• At Kingpins Show Amsterdam (24-25 October) the new “Committed Accessories” dedicated to denim take centre stage.

For the appointment with the exhibition dedicated to denim Metalbottoni focuses on its new range of increasingly green accessories which have captured the attention of the northern European brands most attentive to sustainability in the world of jeans and elsewhere. A range of proposals which, in recent months, has progressed remarkably, following the rules established by the corporate responsibility protocol called NO IMPACT.

This is a responsible approach underlined by the promise “Committed Accessories”, but also a strategic choice with a view to approaching those markets which so far have appeared to be most keen on the subject, for example northern Europe, Benelux and the United States, California in particular. This means that Metalbottoni is acting with increasing assertiveness on those scenarios where it has been present for a long time, in order to increase the segments depth, intercepting new ones, thanks to its wide-ranging eco-compatible proposal.

NO IMPACT: “Committed Accessories” expanded

It is the constant search for sustainable innovation that reveals the extent of the progress made over the past few months by Metalbottoni. For the Kingpins Show exhibition, there are many novelties in store from the company, extending its range in terms of sustainability. Firstly, there is the new MONSTER line eco-processing, special for pure denim, which – apart from metal – includes new material solutions developed through high-profile collaborations.

Also the LEATHER ACCESSORIES line is extending its range of sustainable materials. The line of tags and rear waistband labels is enhanced through interpretations based on two new eco-friendly materials: recycled jacron and cork. For denim designed to be 100% green, also in accessories. Sustainable proposals are increasingly integrated throughout the Metalbottoni range, for example the new glossy and satin finishing developed for the line LABORA on exclusive metal accessories.

Partnerships with brands from northern Europe: Bik Bok and Kings of Indigo

One of the most important collaboration in sustainable fashion is the one with the Norwegian brand Bik Bok. The brand that was founded in 1973 dedicated to young women, today offer accessible trend driven fashion through a network of over 200 single-brand stores in Norway, Sweden, Finland and Austria. The brand has since 2017 chosen to use only BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) certified cotton for their in house premium denim brand Never Denim. For Never Denim Metalbottoni has realized a series of jeans buttons and personalized rivets, all entirely produced according to the NO IMPACT protocol; which means recycled raw materials, no use of chemical agents, through processing and machinery that minimize the use of water and electricity, resulting 100% from photovoltaic panels. All these features are part of a capsule developed for the new AW 2018 collection for Never Denim entirely made with Fair Trade certified cotton. Thanks to this project, the No Impact becomes an integral part of a collection that is aimed at a very large, young and aware public.

Another important brand which has chosen the new NO IMPACT metal accessories is Kings Of Indigo, the Dutch denim mill which is presenting top-quality jeans, inspired by traditional American style, combined with Japanese attention to detail, which today has as many 250 authorised dealers in 12 countries, with a very strong focus on northern Europe.

More and more sportswear for the new Monster SS 2020 collection

The great Metalbottoni classic dedicated to denim confirms the trend of strongly merging with the world of sportswear. The MONSTER line introduces the style developments of the SS 2020 season, with the range being more and more influenced by technical and sports interpretations, alongside sustainable production processes based on the NO IMPACT protocol. The new MONSTER proposals include items made of non-metal material, using sustainable processes, of natural origin and 100% biodegradable; these accessories are similar in appearance to traditional polyester, interpreted in a responsible way, developed through a series of special and unique effects. Also the button, rivet and small plate range has been restyled, having always been the core of the MONSTER line. Today the number of solutions available increases  hanks to new vintage finishing, developed on metal accessories, which are also totally green. “The denim world is moving in a clear direction: that of sustainability.” says Maria Teresa Ricciardo, Creative Director at Metalbottoni, “This is true in particular for some markets, which are strategic for us, and where we are proving increasingly successful, thanks to constant product and process research from a green  perspective, which Metalbottoni today is able to offer within the framework of the NO IMPACT pathway which we have been pursuing for a long time”.

A new important partnership marks the path of Itema towards a greener future for the whole denim production chain. Prosperity Textile, one of the main denim producers worldwide, has chosen for its new facility one of the most interesting and sustainable-oriented Itema technologies, iSAVER™ equipped on the Itema R95002denim. Prosperity Textiles is, in fact, one of the early adopters of this new technology chosen for the new plant that the world-famous indigo fabrics producer will open in Vietnam, and that will be exclusively equipped with the latest Itema weaving machine model, demonstrating once again its green, future-oriented approach.

Thanks to its partnership with Itema, Prosperity Textiles makes again a step forward in terms of sustainable innovation, as one of the first denim producers able to successfully turn - even the weaving production - green. A partnership that is planned to be showcased in some of the most important textiles exhibitions worldwide focusing on Asian and denim markets. A path that starts with KingpinsShow, Amsterdam (October 24-25) where the Chinese denim producer will put into the spotlight this brand-new solution aimed at further increasing the eco-driven approach of the company; an important appointment is also in the Itema calendar: the ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 exhibition, Shanghai (October 15-19) where the Italian company showcased the important green step-forward in denim weaving processes and the full range of its innovations.

iSAVER™: the ideal green tool for denim weaving
This new technology, developed by ItemaLab™, the Itema Advanced Innovation Department, isable to completely eliminate the left-hand weft waste, allowing to insert the weft yarns in the fabric without the need of additional yarns. iSAVER™ significantly reduces raw material waste, leading to tangible benefits in terms of machine’s efficiency, cost reduction and energy saving.

Just consider that the weaver will gain a minimum saving of € 2.000 per year per machine, and our planet will gain even more. In fact, for the first time in the weaving industry, a sustainable approach when choosing the weaving equipment is now possible. Thanks to iSAVER™, 1.000 Kg of cotton per machine per year – the 3% of the total raw materials - will be saved, thus avoiding the waste of 20 million liters of water, equivalent to 400.000 showers.

Numbers are clear: the introduction of iSAVER™ clearly sets a new benchmark in terms of sustainability within denim fabric production. Furthermore, the iSAVER™ is one of the key features of the Itema R95002denim, the rapier weaving machine born and designed to weave denim guaranteeing to weavers superior textile quality, outstanding user-friendliness and tangible energy and raw materials saving.

A joint eco-driven path
Itema, understanding very well the importance of saving resources and energy to drive the textile production in the direction of a more conscious manufacturing, focused its attention to develop breakthrough weaving solutions and in 2018 introduced to the market the iSAVER™, a revolutionary device dedicated specifically to denim fabrics able to eliminate the waste selvedge on the left-hand side of the fabric.

This is one of the reasons-why Prosperity Textiles has chosen to adopt this extraordinary technology for its new facility. Today Prosperity Textiles is one of the main denim producers worldwide, counting 1,300 employees and 20 offices worldwide. Moreover, a second state-of-theart denim mill will be inaugurated in Vietnam by the end of 2018.
What makes Prosperity able to stand out on a global scale, is not simply its products high quality but the ability to conciliate flawless denim fabric production with a sustainability-oriented mindset that permeates every stage of their textile supply chain.

Prosperity, indeed, adopted innovative green manufacturing concepts through all stages of the company’s operations, from product development, raw materials procurement and processing, to natural resources and energy utilization including waste management. Prosperity’s denim production is based on the employment of best quality yarns available on the market, while still targeting the most sustainable sources, from BCI to organic, recycled cotton, and from Tencel™ Lyocell to Sustans™, in 2017, more than 20 million yards fabric sales from Prosperity are with sustainable fibers inside.
The introduction of eco-friendly dyeing and finishing practices allows the company to create beautiful indigo shades and performance denims, with less water and energy consumption compared to the traditional systems. Last year, Prosperity produced 20% more fabrics than 2016, yet the water and electricity use and greenhouse gas emission was down by 11.5%, 7.9% and 5.4% respectively.

In this continuous process of improvement and contribution to a greener industry and planet, plays a central role the recent renewal of the historic partnership and strategic alliance with Itema – the leading manufacturer of cutting-edge weaving solutions – which represents the natural evolution of a constant process of research for partners able to support Prosperity Textiles’ growth as a sustainable company.
Up to now, all innovations and efforts done in this regard addressed the traditionally more polluting steps of the denim production. In fact, if the development of green technologies is nowadays spread in many fabric processing stages, such as finishing and dyeing, weaving was not yet capable to provide sustainable solutions to weavers.