From the Sector

With the growing demand among brands and consumers for plastic-free materials and ingredient transparency, VEOCEL™, the flagship specialty nonwovens brand of Lenzing Group, showcased LENZING™ Lyocell Dry fiber at Hygienix 2023. LENZING™ Lyocell Dry fiber which is not classified as “plastic” according to EU SUPD, meets the growing interest for plastic-free nonwoven products across the industry and among consumers. Additionally, along with being an environment-friendly solution, the fiber delivers high-performance dryness and comfort which makes it the optimum fiber choice for absorbent hygiene applications.

Comprised of mostly fossil-based materials, absorbent hygiene products are an essential part of many consumers’ daily lives. With heightened concerns towards environmental impact, the product segment has been undergoing a change caused by shifting consumer preferences, increased consciousness and concerns towards plastic waste, and technology advancement. LENZING™ Lyocell Dry fiber has embraced these changes without compromising on quality or performance.

LENZING™ Lyocell Dry is a cellulosic environment-friendly wood-based alternative to fossil-based fibers. Besides offering great performance features such as liquid management, dryness, gentle-on-the-skin comfort, softness, and quality, LENZING™ Lyocell Dry helps to meet the needs of customers who are aiming to produce plastic-free applications or end products that do not harm the planet without compromising on performance or comfort.

Featuring Lenzing’s unique Dry technology, LENZING™ Lyocell Dry’s hydrophobic characteristics and liquid-controlling properties make it the ideal fiber for absorbent hygiene products. Its high-performing hydrophobicity makes it the optimal choice for a wide range of applications, including baby diapers, feminine care and personal hygiene products as well as adult incontinence products.

The fiber has consistently been tested by Lenzing as the softest* fiber among cellulosic fibers in both dry and wet stages. LENZING™ Lyocell Dry will enable brands and manufacturers to deliver quality hygiene products that provide a high level of comfort, softness, and dryness.

*Lenzing AG softness panel test

Researchers at the ITA, the University of Bonn and Heimbach GmbH have developed a new method for removing oil spills from water surfaces in an energy-saving, cost-effective way and without the use of toxic substances. The method is made possible by a technical textile that is integrated into a floating container. A single small device can remove up to 4 liters of diesel within an hour. This corresponds to about 100 m2 of oil film on a water surface.
 
Despite the steady expansion of renewable energies, global oil production, oil consumption and the risk of oil pollution have increased steadily over the last two decades. In 2022, global oil production amounted to 4.4 billion tons! Accidents often occur during the extraction, transportation and use of oil, resulting in serious and sometimes irreversible environmental pollution and harm to humans.

There are various methods for removing this oil pollution from water surfaces. However, all methods have various shortcomings that make them difficult to use and, in particular, limit the removal of oil from inland waters.

For many technical applications, unexpected solutions come from the field of biology. Millions of years of evolution led to optimized surfaces of living organisms for their interaction with the environment. Solutions - often rather unfamiliar to materials scientists and difficult to accept. The long-time routine examination of around 20,000 different species showed that there is an almost infinite variety of structures and functionalities. Some species in particular stand out for their excellent oil adsorption properties. It was shown that, e.g., leaves of the floating fern Salvinia molesta, adsorb oil, separate it from water surfaces and transport it on their surfaces (Figure 1, see also the video of the phenomon.).

The observations inspired them to transfer the effect to technical textiles for separating oil and water. The result is a superhydrophobic spacer fabric that can be produced industrially and is therefore easily scalable.

The bio-inspired textile can be integrated into a device for oil-water separation. This entire device is called a Bionic Oil Adsorber (BOA). Figure 2: Cross-section of computer-aided (CAD) model of the Bionic Oil Adsorber. The scheme shows an oil film (red) on a water surface (light blue). In the floating cotainer(gray), the textile (orange) is fixed so that it is in contact with the oil film and the end protrudes into the container. The oil is adsorbed and transported by the BOA textile. As shown in the cross-section, it enters the contain-er, where it is released again and accumulates at the bottom of the container. See also the video regarding the oil absorption on the textile, source ITA).
 
Starting from the contamination in the form of an oil film on the water surface, the separation and collection process works according to the following steps:

• The BOA is introduced into the oil film.
• The oil is adsorbed by the textile and separated from the water at the same time.
• The oil is transported through the textile into the collection container.
• The oil drips from the textile into the collection container.
• The oil is collected until the container is emptied.

The advantage of this novel oil separation device is that no additional energy has to be applied to operate the BOA. The oil is separated from the surrounding water by the surface properties of the textile and transported through the textile driven solely by capillary forces, even against gravity. When it reaches the end of the textile in the collection container, the oil desorbs without any further external influence due to gravitational forces. With the current scale approximately 4 L of diesel can be separated from water by one device of the Bionic Oil Adsorber per hour.

• It seems unlikely that a functionalized knitted spacer textile is cheaper than a conventional nonwoven, like it is commonly used for oil sorbents. However, since it is a functional material, the costs must be related to the amount of oil removed. In this respect, if we compare the sales price of the BOA textile with the sales prices of various oil-binding nonwovens, the former is 5 to 13 times cheaper with 10 ct/L oil removed.
  Overall, the BOA device offers a cost-effective and sustainable method of oil-water separation in contrast to conventional cleaning methods due to the following advantages:
• No additional energy requirements, such as with oil skimmers, are necessary
• No toxic substances are introduced into the water body, such as with oil dispersants
• The textiles and equipment can be reused multiple times
• No waste remains inside the water body
• Inexpensive in terms of the amount of oil removed.
• The team of researchers from the ITA, the University of Bonn and Heimbach GmbH was able to prove that the novel biomimetic BOA technology is surprisingly efficient and sustainable for a self-controlled separation and automatic collection of oil films including their complete removal from the water. BOA can be asapted for open water application but also for the use in inland waters. Furthermore, it is promising, that the textile can be used in various related separation processes. The product is currently being further developed so that it can be launched on the market in 2-3 years.

ITMA ASIA + CITME, Asia’s leading trade fair for textile machinery, took place in Shanghai with a considerable presence of VDMA member companies. The round about 40 exhibiting VDMA members covered nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning and manmade fibers, nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting & hosiery, finishing & dyeing and textile processing. They were part of a strong German presence with a total of around 60 German exhibitors – including non-machine manufacturers.

During a press conference on the first day of the show, Dr. Janpeter Horn, chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association and managing director of August Herzog Maschinenfabrik expressed: “After years of cancelled or postponed trade fairs and travel restrictions, this year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME is the first edition of the show that can be attended not just by Chinese but by visitors from various countries and regions. The event is a good opportunity to meet customers and partners again in person and not just on a screen. ITMA ASIA + CITME provides a good chance to deepen the already good relations with China and other Asian countries further and to set-up new partnerships.”

Dr. Horn continued to present latest facts and figures about the German textile machinery industry. Between January and August 2023, the overall exports of textile machinery and accessories summed up to 1.7 billion euros, which was a slight decrease compared to the same period in 2022. The shipping to almost all major markets decreased between January and August: China: 440 million € (2022: 453 million €), Turkey: 205 million € (2022: 265 million €), USA: 177 million € (2022: 144 million €), India: 170 million € (2022: 228 million €).

Numerous VDMA member companies have production sites in the major Asian markets China and India and serve their customers in these countries from there. A latest VDMA business climate survey among the textile machinery companies in China showed, that 75% of all participants assessed their current business situation as either good (6%) or satisfactory (69%). For the coming quarter, 50% of the companies see the market to decline. Asked about the business situation during the next six months, 44% of the companies expect the market to remain stable, 56% expect the situation to become worse. This is also reflected in the HR of the companies: 63% expect the number of employees to remain unchanged.

RUDOLF HUB1922 makes a move in response to the escalating demand for genuinely sustainable technologies, particularly from forward-thinking segments within the textile and apparel industry. In a showcase at Denim by Premiere Vision Milan, RUDOLF HUB1922 presents a pioneering range of textile chemistry that embodies true evolution.

This chemistry marks a milestone in addressing the pressing need for sustainable solutions. By harnessing raw materials derived from organic waste, plastic waste, and renewable feedstock, RUDOLF's latest textile innovations stand poised to transform the industry, promising a substantial reduction in its environmental footprint.

Alberto De Conti, Head of RUDOLF HUB1922, emphasizes the radical nature of evolutionary textile chemistry, stating, "RUDOLF's approach tackles the challenge of waste generation head-on by transforming waste materials into valuable resources". The diversion of waste and renewable feedstock away from landfills and incinerators to fuel textile chemical production is a game-changer, that diminishes the industry's reliance on non-renewable resources and endorses a circular economy model.

The successful integration of chemicals derived from organic and plastic waste, as well as renewable feedstocks, necessitates effective communication and education. Herein lies the significance of fostering collaborative efforts within the industry. De Conti underscores this point, stating, "Collaboration among scientists, fashion designers, and manufacturers is paramount. It propels a collective shift towards sustainable practices, making eco-friendly fashion the standard and minimizing the industry's environmental impact".

On 23-24 November, Recover™, Evlox and Jeanologia will showcase their new recycled denim capsule collection, REICONICS, at Denim Première Vision in Milan.

The collection is the result of a collaborative project between the three companies, combining expertise from each specialist business to improve circularity in the denim industry, from fiber to finish.

It aims to inspire and bring value to the industry by creating truly circular products through a process that implements eco-design, transparency, process measurement, traceability, and scalability.

Made from Recover™ recycled cotton fiber and Spanish cotton, the REICONICS collection is GRS certified and is a tribute to the classic denim fabrics that have been successful in past decades.

It includes a range of premium denim fabrics developed by Evlox, and a total of 14 final garments that will be exhibited at Premiere Vision Denim. Each piece in the collection displays a variety of finishes generated using technology by Jeanologia, reducing water and energy consumption, and eliminating damaging emissions and discharge.

Just one jacket in the REICONICS collection, using 32% Recover™ recycled fiber and Jeanologia finishing technology, saves up to 240 liters of water; compared to a jacket made with virgin cotton and treated with traditional finishing technique.

The Fashion for Good Museum has opened its doors for the new pop-up exhibition News From The Future. As part of a new Educational Programme and Toolkit - developed by the Fashion for Good Museum team - a selection of up-and-coming talents composed of Dutch fashion students and emerging designers have been asked to respond to the question: “what could the future of fashion look like?” Their answers are revealed in the exhibition in the form of garments, videos, installations and more. This is a future-forward exhibition where you can explore different fashion perspectives beyond the climate crisis, giving hope and, perhaps, a reality check.

Post-consumer waste, overconsumption and the pollution of our waterways are just some of the industry issues we are currently facing. Mirrored against rising temperatures and increasingly unstable weather conditions, the global shift as a result of climate change is inevitable. What does this mean for our future generations? How do we move forward from here? This raises one central question: What does the future of fashion look like?

News From The Future, the new exhibition at the Fashion for Good Museum, invited Dutch students and new creative voices to reflect on these questions. The emphasis on emerging talent is a common thread throughout the exhibition’s and the look and feel is designed by upcoming graphic designer Sara Biatchinyi.

Participating artists and designers include students from art and fashion schools across the Netherlands from the University of the Arts Utrecht, Zadkine MBO, MBO Rijnland and Saxion College. The students’ work was chosen after they participated in the educational programme “Classroom of the Future: the Stories Behind Cotton”. This programme was developed by the Fashion for Good Museum’s Curator and Education Coordinator Alyxandra Westwood and Education and Fashion consultant in sustainability Yophi Ignacia founder of The Future Mode, in collaboration with the aforementioned schools.

To further enhance these narratives, and to facilitate and promote a space for connection between emerging talent, the Museum invited Current Obsession Magazine - an interdisciplinary jewellery platform and magazine - to co-curate an installation and reflect on the future of jewellery. Over the course of the exhibition the Fashion for Good Museum will come to life hosting an art auction, panel discussion and a weekly updated installation, showcasing emerging talent. All of these elements together will collectively address the sustainable and regenerative design practices in both the Fashion and Jewellery industries.

Designer Kevin Paraiso (Paris/Benin) showcases a creative workshop in the museum, featuring looks from his Cosmic Summer .Dolkrey collection, which was presented during Spring/Summer ‘23 of Paris Fashion Week. “Cosmic Summer reflects on our desire to bring vibrant colours and a sense of uplift to the fashion of today and tomorrow. A cosmic news from the future.” A hopeful collection, with future-forward elements seamlessly integrated from the use of deadstock, circular materials and an on-demand tailoring business model with inhouse printing - presents a positive outlook.

Launching “Classroom of the Future: The Stories Behind Cotton”
The educational programme “Classroom of the Future: the Stories Behind Cotton'' has been developed into an open source toolkit for MBO and HBO education. The toolkit is live and available to download from the Fashion for Good Museum website as of the 30th of November 2023.

It consists of a set of six lessons all exploring the various aspects of cotton with specific emphasis on people and planet. The toolkit brings together different forms of interactive tools for the classroom: videos, podcasts,  lesson plans and workshops. The content shows the perspective of local and international makers and innovators working to create a better and fairer fashion system.
The programme was part of and based on the previous museum exhibition Knowing Cotton Otherwise (2022-’23) and invited students to reflect on the  exhibition themes - water, transparency, agriculture, climate, processing, origin, labour/forced labour and end-of-use - through their own perspective. The educational methodology and goals within the programme were developed to level the field between MBO and HBO students, reflecting a more realistic image of what it's like working in the professional field. During the programme students worked together equally, challenging the segregated Dutch education system and aiming for new results.

News From The Future is open to the public at the Fashion for Good Museum at Rokin 102 in Amsterdam.

The appetite for responsible sourcing shows no sign of slowing with Europe's fastest-growing platform, Source Fashion expanding again for its next edition with a 50% increase in exhibitors to over 320 from around the world.

The gateway to the UK fashion industry, Source Fashion takes place on 18th - 20th February at Kensington Olympia London putting international manufacturers and suppliers at the fingertips of UK brands.

Source Fashion offers a unique experience for decision-makers in buying, sourcing and procurement, with the reassurance of knowing that every exhibitor has been audited to ensure sustainability and transparency remains at the heart of their business model. The next show unites manufacturers from the UK, India, Portugal, Turkey Madagascar, China, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Peru, Philippines, Ethiopia and many more. The show will also see the debut of manufacturers from Mongolia, Lithuania, and Tunisia.

Suzanne Ellingham, Director of Sourcing of Source Fashion says; "Visitors will love the quality, diversity and variety of producers, makers and manufacturers from around the world with the best of the best in terms of high-quality knitted apparel, luxury wool knits, leather, denim, and more across our sectors including Fabrics, Accessories, Sportswear, Garment Manufacturers, Packaging, Yarns, Trims and Fixtures, plus Design & Technology."

Connecting global manufacturers and suppliers to buyers who want the security in knowing every conversation is one that could lead to a new range creation, Source Fashion is the gateway to retail for manufacturers and suppliers from across the world. From raw materials, fabrics, trims, and packaging, all the way through to contract manufacturers offering in house design services, the show brings the inspiration and tools together in one exciting destination to bring new ranges to life.

The July 2023 show welcomed some of retail's biggest names. Buyers, sourcing managers, product developers, technologists, and designers from brands and retailers including John Lewis, Mountain Warehouse, Fila, Selfridges, H&M, Lipsy, Lyle & Scott, Joules, FILA, Perry Ellis, JoJo Mamman Bebe, Monsoon, Fatface, Lulu Guinness, Next, Sainsburys, Vivienne Westwood, Stitch Fix, ASOS, Bella Freud, Burberry, Fat Face, Hackett, Harrods, NBrown, Monsoon and many more came to explore and source from Source Fashion's diverse mix of audited exhibitors.

With a content stage dedicated to presenting and discussing the latest trends, innovations, and topics in responsible and sustainable manufacturing from internationally renowned industry professionals, as well the inspirational Source Catwalk shows, Source Fashion is the must-attend event for the fashion community.

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), in cooperation with the Hague-based UpRights Foundation, launches the GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Certified Entities. This landmark publication is a crucial step forward in the promotion of sustainability, human rights and ethical business conduct in the textile sector.

Clear Guidance for GOTS Certified Entities Based on Recognised International Standards
The GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Certified Entities is based on the recognised international frameworks, including the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector (2018) and the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights (UNGPs). The Handbook offers GOTS Certified Entities clear guidance on integrating due diligence processes into their operations, thereby helping them to comply with domestic due diligence laws such as the German Supply Chain Law, French Vigilance Law, and upcoming EU legislation.

A Comprehensive Blueprint
The GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Certified Entities was developed as a structured roadmap, leading Certified Entities through the process of establishing and refining their management systems. The emphasis of the Handbook is on a holistic due diligence approach, ensuring that GOTS-certified companies not only identify but also proactively prevent and effectively mitigate potential adverse impacts on human rights and the environment. The Handbook ensures that GOTS Certified Entities are equipped with the knowledge and tools to respond to potential challenges, transforming them into leaders in responsible business conduct within the textile sector. The GOTS 7.0 criteria, bolstered by this Handbook, paves the way for a more sustainable and socially conscious business approach in the textile sector.

OECD Standards Assessment
GOTS is currently undergoing the OECD Alignment Assessment, a three-stage process that will result in a reputable, independent evaluation of the GOTS Criteria's alignment with the OECD's due diligence guidance documents. The process includes a Standards Assessment, an Implementation Assessment and a Credibility Assessment. As GOTS enters the Standard Assessment phase, it effectively showcases its dedication to sustainable practices, in line with the comprehensive international framework for responsible garment and footwear supply chain laid out in the OECD Due Diligence Guidance. This process, supported by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development, began in July 2023 and is expected to be completed in January 2024.

Kelheim Fibres, a manufacturer of specialty viscose fibres, showcases its latest developments at this year's Global Fiber Congress in Dornbirn. The focus is on innovative solutions that not only promote environmental sustainability but also strengthen the European supply chain.

In his presentation "Towards high performing plant-based AHP products - a joined approach of Pelz and Kelheim Fibres," Dr. Ingo Bernt, Project Leader of Fiber & Application Development at Kelheim Fibres, together with Dr. Henning Röttger, Head of Business Development at PelzGROUP, introduces the development of a plastic-free yet high-performance panty liner. The water-repellent Kelheim specialty fibre Olea plays a crucial role in both the top and backsheet of the panty liner. This product emerged from the ambition to offer eco-friendly alternatives to conventional disposable hygiene solutions without compromising on product performance.

A similar approach is pursued in the second presented project. Under the title "Performance Fibres meet Sustainable Design - example of a reusable Baby Diaper," Natalie Wunder, Project Leader from Kelheim Fibres' New Business Development team, together with Caspar Böhme, Co-Founder of Sumo, introduce the washable and reusable SUMO diaper. Made from biobased materials and featuring a unique construction with Kelheim specialty fibres, this combination offers double environmental benefits compared to conventional disposable baby diapers.

Both the panty liner and the SUMO diaper are manufactured entirely in Europe, resulting in shorter transportation routes and a reduced CO2 footprint. Moreover, these innovations contribute to strengthening the European textile and nonwovens industries by fostering innovation within Europe.

Spinnova has decided to evaluate its existing strategy to prioritise areas that in the short- to medium-term deliver the fastest time to positive cashflow generation and that create the most value for the company’s stakeholders.
 

The company expects to conclude the assessment of its strategy in the coming months, after which the results will be presented in more detail including key actions and any changes to medium- and long-term business targets. Financial guidance for full year 2023 is unchanged.

Spinnova’s unique sustainable technology is a key differentiator. To recognize the value of its technology offering, the company has decided to review opportunities to expand the licensing of its technology to new customers. In the future, Spinnova sees great potential in developing circular raw materials such as textile waste and agricultural waste, as well as recycled SPINNOVA® fibre. Initial tests show that refining these raw materials into micro fibrillated cellulose (MFC) may be more efficient than refining other raw materials Spinnova has worked with. The company has received significant interest from customers wanting to build plants that convert multiple circular raw materials into SPINNOVA® fibre.

Together with Suzano, Spinnova is gathering the learnings from the first Woodspin plant to support the decision making for the next Woodspin factory investment. At the same time Spinnova continues to further develop the technology concept to reduce capital expenditure per tonne of fibre produced compared to the first Woodspin plant. While Suzano develops its MFC process it is expected that the first Woodspin facility will mainly be used for R&D to test new MFC batches and that commercial production volumes will be limited in the short term. The market opportunity and ambition level with Suzano to scale Woodspin’s production capacity remains unchanged

Spinnova will continue to have the option to invest into all future Woodspin and Respin plants, as per the respective joint venture agreements. The company will evaluate whether it participates in these investments based on the value it creates for Spinnova’s shareholders compared to other opportunities to invest Spinnova’s capital. Regardless of whether Spinnova invests its own capital into future plants, Spinnova will continue to be the exclusive technology provider to Woodspin and Respin, and they will continue to be important technology customers of Spinnova.