From the Sector

Ananas Anam, the provider of innovative low-impact textile solutions made from pineapple leaf waste, announced the appointment of Manel Echevarria as the new CEO. The Spanish executive who had previously worked as CEO for Grupo Excens Sports and Lacoste Iberia, as well as in senior executive roles for Swarovski and MontBlanc, will lead the global business from its European research and production site near Barcelona in Spain.

At the beginning of the year, the company reported the successful closing of a funding round led by HALTRA Group, a family-backed sustainable investment firm in Luxembourg and a group of strategic investors, including the French Compagnie Fruitière, one of the leading producers in Europe and major fruit producer in the Africa-Caribbean-Pacific region, as well the global automotive technology supplier Forvia, and Asahi Kasei Corp, a leading Japanese multinational group working in innovative materials and technologies.

“The appointment of Manel Echevarria as a seasoned CEO with an impressive track-record in the fashion and luxury industry marks another important milestone in setting Ananas Anam up for the next phase of growth” says Dr. Christian Kurtzke, Chairman of Ananas Anam. “Following our investment in the development of an impressive portfolio of next-generation innovative biodegradable, traceable and sustainable materials, and into the setup of its network of strategic partners on the supply and shareholder side, Manel will provide the leadership for driving growth and industrial scale of this pioneering sustainability brand amidst a continued challenging global market environment in fashion, interiors and automotive.”

With Ananas Anam’s core portfolio of innovative materials, the company has successfully collaborated with well-known brands including Nike, Hugo Boss, H&M, Paul Smith and Cat Footwear and sustainable-fashion pioneers like Ecoalf to drive innovation in footwear, as well as with fashion brands like Carolina Herrera in the area of bags and accessories, substituting animal leather in the product design with its vegan, cruelty-free, low-impact and sustainable pineapple leaf fibre based textiles. In July 2023, at the Premiere Vision exhibition in Paris, the company presented the next generation of Piñatex as well as its breakthrough innovation Piñayarn as a biodegradable, traceable and sustainable yarn, and introducing Anam PALF, as a commercially available premium textile grade pineapple leaf fibre, opening up a world of new applications and markets.

“Driving the sustainability transformation in fashion, as well as in interiors and automotive has become a key priority on the agenda of brands and OEMs around the world,” says Manel Echevarria, CEO Ananas Anam. “I am proud to have the opportunity to lead the company in this decisive time, and I am looking forward to collaborating with our exceptional Spanish founder, Dr Carmen Hijosa, and Josep Taylor in Spain, with Bruno de Penanster and his team in the UK, as well as with Chuck Lazaro and his team in the Philippines to turn this amazing sustainability ambition and purpose into a reality.”

Devan, part of Pulcra Chemicals, has announced its R-Vital NTL technology.

R-Vital NTL enables textile manufacturers to boost textiles with a versatile range of micro-encapsulated active ingredients. This functional finish provides added value for textiles and allows manufacturers to create products that differentiate them from competitors. Furthermore, the bio-based and biodegradable well-being technology achieves a durability of 50 washes.

The main concept behind micro-encapsulation is that active ingredients, present on textiles, are gradually released on the skin. When using the textiles or while wearing the clothing, the microcapsules burst by friction and release their assets. Since not all capsules break at the same time, a continuous and gradual release of the actives is obtained.

The natural range comprises five distinct products, each with specific attributes:

• Aloe vera: Known for its skin-smoothing and softening properties.
• Avocado seed oil: Known for its skin-moisturizing capabilities.
• CBD: Known for its relaxation properties.
• Multivitamin: A blend of provitamin D, vitamins C and E, and ginger.
• Vitamin E: Known to offer protection against free radicals and premature aging

Inspired by an elegant alpine express that carries its passengers through vibrant cities and breathtaking mountain landscapes, BOGNER presents its Fall/Winter 2023 collection, where modern, technical materials meet elegant, iconic silhouettes for a winter season full of activity, luxury and positivity.

BOGNER interprets the winter look with tailored pieces for sporty as well as relaxed activities for the journey to the mountain, on the mountain and after the mountain with light, natural fabrics like flannel, cashmere and various luxurious yarns like lambswool and jacquard knits.

Overall the BOGNER Fall/Winter 2023 collection offers a wide range of elegant and active styles - for sporty skiing and relaxed après ski adventures.

PrimaLoft, Inc., a leader in advanced material technology, is expanding its  Active Insulation Range by adding four new Active Evolve styles, reaffirming its commitment to providing cutting-edge solutions that meet the evolving needs of consumers.

Originally launched in 2018, PrimaLoft Active Evolve is a line of insulating fabrics that is designed to evolve performance, design, and sustainability. Combining the lightweight warmth of insulation with the breathability of fabric, this technology is developed to perform in a wide range of activities, regardless of intensity or season. From pushing yourself during a cross country ski tour, to working up a sweat hiking to the next peak, PrimaLoft Active Evolve keeps you in your comfort zone – even when you’re pushing yourself out of it.

Several products in the Active Evolve line can be used as a next-to-skin fabric. This enables brands to forego liner fabrics, which means heat and moisture are more efficiently managed, breathability is supported, and user comfort is maintained. In addition to achieving optimal performance during aerobic activity, this yields a wider utility and year-round use, all while allowing brands to use less overall material when designing a garment, reducing footprint and waste.

PrimaLoft Active Evolve offers several advantages to designers. It enables them to utilize the full spectrum of color, incorporate unique patterns, and provides greater flexibility in fabric selection. Additionally, Active Evolve eliminates the need for quilting in the design process. Products within the Active Evolve line are made from up to 100% post-consumer recycled content, including three of the four new styles.

With more than a dozen brand adoptions thus far, PrimaLoft Active Evolve’s adaptability for the user, range of use across activities, and seasonal timing, is quickly making this one of the most versatile products in the PrimaLoft portfolio. For Fall/Winter 2023-2024, key partner brands beside Sitka and Löffler will include CP Company, Eddie Bauer, Endura, Martini Sportswear, OMM, Quiksilver, Ziener and more.

Riri, which became part of Oerlikon Group on March 1, presents its FW 24-25 collection, which embraces plastic and metal trends.

Metal Trends: GALACTIC SHINE, TEXTURIZED BLACK and AMBER GLAZE
As a result of joining the Oerlikon Group, specializing in surface engineering, polymer processing, and additive manufacturing, Riri is accelerating its transition to new processes related to surface treatments, particularly the PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) technology, a physical process that significantly reduces impacts on the environment. PVD processes can be appreciated particularly on sliders and buttons where gold and shiny black finishes stand out. Silver textures, science fiction-inspired surfaces and shapes, and glossy, brushed finishes in shades of gray and very light gold: GALACTIC SHINE brings to earth a sidereal experience, witness from a journey where the atmosphere becomes rarefied and elegance takes shape among metalized leather tapes, gold PVD pullers, organic cotton, and gleaming inox. Black also shines in the TEXTURIZED BLACK selection, in tone-on-tone contrasts that create plays of light and shadow, thanks to metallic effects, glossy black PVD treatments, tapes and galvanic in shades of black. The atmosphere becomes warmer by varying on amber tones, the absolute protagonists of the AMBER GLAZE mood, which offers a different interpretation of elegance through bright amber tones, rose gold, diamond prints and geometric patterns.

Plastic Trends: GHOSTLY ICE and SPRAY VANISHED
GHOSTLY ICE features accessories that refer to the skiing theme, offering an algid beauty made up of transparent surfaces and icy effects, a theme in which the sustainability of mono-materials coexists with the elegance of the end result. The color inspirations are totally different, but sustainability and elegance remain unchanged in the SPRAY VANISHED zipper selection, in which vibrant multicolored effects communicate joy and vitality through iridescent PVD effects and the use of recycled materials, such as the polyamide of the patented B.Lock button.

The PREMIUM and SEEK teams around Anita Tillmann and Jörg Arntz prove their skills with the success of the new Trend and Event Platform. The format, newly shortened to just two days, showed a total of 450 curated, international brands of the new generation, with 250 brands at PREMIUM and 200 brands at SEEK. The motto was quality over quantity. In addition to the brands, the focus was clearly on the know-how of experts from sustainability, tech, and business. If you didn't discover or learn anything new in the last two days you missed out. Visitors from all over the world came to Station Berlin to see what the Premium Group had come up with for this edition - and it did not disappoint.

PREMIUM reinvents itself
The newly curated brand portfolio with many international and unexposed brands were very well received by the community and invited buyers and visitors to explore a diverse, exciting, and coherent brand landscape. The atmosphere was characterised by lightness, lots of sunshine, and good conversations.

For the first time, PREMIUM and the Fashion Council Germany joined forces to present the showroom "CURATED by Fashion Council Germany" with avant-garde designers from Germany and Ukraine. The tech format Yonnaverse addressed the most important innovations for profitability and sustainable growth through digital progress. The event took place physically, digitally, and in the Metaverse.

Iranian artist and milliner Maryam Keyhani showed what surrealism marketing and tangible art can look like with her oversized hat, which floated happily over the grounds and caused surprised faces. The installation by the Italian designer Innerrraum from Berlin was dedicated to Anita Tillmann in gratitude for her international success. Artists such as Sophie Douala from France, Claudia Gillies from New Zealand, and Grycja Erde from Ukraine were a welcome addition in making the PREMIUM visit an experience.

The diverse portfolio also included a range of beauty brands and the beauty lounge offered much-loved make-up, hair and nail touch ups. There were also many new things to discover in the retail sphere. Vintage & Rags presented a new retail concept for second-hand fashion and SPSR showed how to take retail entertainment to the next level through unique live consumer engagement. On the Content Cube stage, Daniel Steindorf, the former owner of Überfahrt, spoke with Inga Klaassen from J'N'C about hospitality fusion, community, and retail, next to other speakers.

SEEK put a stronger focus on sustainability
As in previous editions, a relaxed and positive mood prevailed at SEEK. The community was happy to finally fall into each other's arms again. SEEK convinced with high-quality and original brands and an even stronger focus on sustainability. For the first time, SEEK's brand portfolio consisted of 50% sustainable brands, further strengthening the Conscious Club and allowing it to flourish. The Conscious Club was supported by the sustainability experts from studio MM04, whose 202030 - The Berlin Fashion Summit Denim Pop-up ensured a full Content Cube.

Decision-makers and fashion professionals discussed the learnings of the denim transformation, the new green claims of the EU textile strategy as well as pragmatic solutions on how to remain and act more sustainable and competitive as an industry and individual brand. As a counterpart to Black Friday, Cold Friday, initiated by Dojo Cares, was presented as the "biggest awareness campaign since sales days have existed". Fair fashion and fair working conditions were the focus of the final conference of the "Good Clothes Fair Pay" press conference by Fashion Revolution, which was also part of the Conscious Club. On top of a lot of sustainability inspiration, for the first time there was a space for D2C brands such as VGB and ADR Atelier Roupa, who were involved both as brands and as speakers in the content programme. For two days, two stages were filled with talks and panels with the most relevant themes from fashion, lifestyle, culture and business. Gen Z, Gen Y and Gen Alpha met for espresso martinis and club culture vibes at "Platte raves the Ground" to discover and stage the coolest styles of the scene.

OETI – a member of the internationally active TESTEX Group – has bought the German company ECS to expand its service portfolio in the field of personal protective equipment (PPE).

OETI has been offering testing services for textile work clothing since 1983 – for about 40 years. Since the introduction of CE labelling for personal protective equipment and the enactment of the PPE Directive by the European Union in 1993, OETI has not only been testing textile personal protective equipment, but now on also certifies it in conformity with EU standards. In 1995, OETI was certified in Brussels as a Notified Body (0534) for type-examinations and quality assurance monitoring of personal protective equipment end products. Testing and certification is carried out in accordance with the current PPE Regulation (EU) 2016/425.

Testing and Certification Body for Eye and Face Protection, based in Aalen, was founded 15 years ago and is a globally active institution for testing and certification of eye and face protection equipment. The company is one of the leading independent testing institutions for personal protection products in laser applications and for welding work.

ECS tests and evaluates occupational health and safety goggles with and without a filter action, passive and active switching protection filters and shields for welders, and laser protection filters, goggles, and shields. The company also tests the optical properties of sunglasses, sports glasses, ski goggles, swimming goggles and motorbike goggles.

With OETI’s takeover, the ECS location in Aalen is retained, and all employees will continue working at ECS. The new Managing Director of ECS GmbH as of 1 July 2023 is Dipl.-Ing. Rolf Diebolder.

‘We are present on the European market, on the American market and, via a representative office, on the Chinese market. With the aid of the new distribution channels through OETI and TESTEX, we want to steadily advance ECS’ expansion and be present on all five continents’, says Managing Director Rolf Diebolder, explaining his strategic plans for ECS. ‘I would like OETI and ECS to develop a joint strategy in order to be able to offer existing and new customers of both companies a complete package which, when combined, will give us a unique selling point in the marketplace’, says Diebolder.

Diebolder also sees further potential in the cooperation with regard to protective laser clothing. According to him, this is where the laser laboratory commissioned by ECS could be used to make textiles laser-safe. In the future, there will be more and more ‘hand-held’ devices, i.e. laser welding devices, for which gloves and protective jackets are needed.

Bangladesh will stage the world’s first climate conference for the fashion industry this autumn, on 12 October. The Bangladesh Climate Action Forum will convene policy makers, garment manufacturers, fashion retailers and other industry stakeholders to look at solutions for decarbonising global textile supply chains.

The event will focus on technological and financial challenges around reducing emissions. Most of the world’s leading fashion brands have now set ambitious targets for reducing supply chain emissions. These targets relate to 2030 by which time many brands aim to reduce emissions by 50 per cent, and 2050 where most fashion brands aim to be carbon neutral.

The Bangladesh Climate Forum Action will examine causes of climate crisis, its urgency, impacts we have already seen, and what we can expect under both businesses as usual and rapid decarbonisation scenarios.

Also presenting at the event will be the Government of Bangladesh, which will address Bangladesh’s actions to mitigate the impacts of the climate crisis. Bangladesh is particularly vulnerable to climate change and is ranked the seventh extreme disaster risk-prone country in the world according to a report from the Global Climate Risk Index 2021. Tropical cyclones, tornadoes, floods, coastal and riverbank erosion, droughts and landslides are the major climate-induced hazards in Bangladesh.

The Bangladesh Climate Forum Action will also look at approaches towards decarbonization, including NetZero goals and timelines. Speakers will discuss globally recognised pathways for electricity/transportation/industry decarbonisation.

Renewable energy will also be under discussion. If fashion brands are to hit climate targets, it is imperative that supply chains switch to renewable energy and away from gas and fossil fuels. The event will look at challenges around the de-carbonisation of the electricity grid in Bangladesh, as well as the rate of transition toward renewable resources by garment factories, including solar power.

A key element of the event will be evaluation of practical solutions for Bangladesh’s RMG industry. It will profile specific solutions such as energy efficiency, machine upgrades, the electrification of thermal loads, direct power purchase agreements and biomass fed thermal systems. It will also discuss the challenges faced in the industry including business climate (and cycles), pricing, financing challenges, target setting and execution, policy opportunities, knowledge gaps and availability/scaling of solutions.

Financial challenges around decarbonisation of supply chains are significant, and it is far from clear who will pay for the technological upgrades required. While some investment support systems exist – such as lower interest financing – these are not always available, accessible or affordable for the majority of the RMG companies.

The event will explore financial options, changes to business/pricing models, opportunities for de-risking/underwriting investments, direct investment and other tools that need to emerge to address financial challenges and plug the funding gap. The event will also explore opportunities to decouple climate action from business cycles so that the 2030 targets can be met.

PrimaLoft Inc., a leader in advanced material technology, announced the reorganization of its European sales management team. Effective June 1st, Leonardo Loro has promoted to the position of Sales Leader, Europe. Additionally, the company welcomes Mario Vlietinck as the new Territory Manager for France, Benelux & Denmark.

To further streamline operations and maximize opportunities, PrimaLoft is also implementing a territory reorganization to better align existing sales talent with market opportunities. These moves will strengthen the company’s sales strategy in the region.

Leonardo Loro will lead the European sales team and report directly to Chris Humphris, SVP, Global Sales. "With over a decade of experience as the sales and marketing manager for the southern European market, including France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal, Leonardo has demonstrated exceptional skills in building customer relationships and identifying new business opportunities. His invaluable contributions to our sales efforts make him the ideal candidate to lead and elevate our business in Europe", said Humphris. In his new leadership role, Loro will continue to manage brands in Italy and Spain, as well as military sales efforts in Europe.

Mario Vlietinck joins the PrimaLoft team and will be responsible for managing and developing business relationships with PrimaLoft brand partners in France, Benelux & Denmark. Vlietinck brings a wealth of knowledge in sales and the outdoor industry, previously serving as the head of Apparel & Footwear for Katoen Natie, as well as working for brands such as Reebok, Merrell, and Vannese. "Mario’s background in product development, business development, and international sales positions him as a great asset to our company goals,” said Humphris. Vlietinck will report to Leonardo Loro.

Sales Territory Reorganization
Wim Neels, VP of business development for fashion and lifestyle, will be responsible for all Fashion & Lifestyle brands across Europe, with the exception of Italy & Spain, which remain the responsibility of Leonardo Loro.

Bartosz Lassak will expand his territory responsibility to include outdoor performance brands in the United Kingdom, in addition to Eastern Europe and Turkey. He will also handle any opportunities from North Africa, as well as any brands located outside of other European coverage.

Valerie Raths Goesel will oversee the management of all outdoor performance brands in the Germany, Austria, and Switzerland region.

Mats Jengard will remain the territory manager for Scandinavia (Norway, Sweden, Finland & Iceland), focusing outdoor performance brands.

At the 14th edition more than 4,500 visitors from the retail industry gathered in Mumbai from 1 to 3 June to exchange views on the latest products and solutions specifically for the Indian retail market. Exhibitors on over 7,500 m2 demonstrated where the future of the Indian retail sector is headed. This year's event offered new product segments and profiles, bringing the spotlight to sustainability and focusing on the growth of the overall industry.

The Indian retail market is one of the fastest growing retail markets in the world and a key driver for the Indian economy, something that was also reflected by numerous positive conversations where fruitful synergies were created and long-term relationships were established. Appealing retail design, shopper marketing strategies and visual merchandising were the highlights of the exhibits on the show floor. The trade visitors were also distinguished by a high level of decision-making skills and brand experience expertise.

Thomas Schlitt, Managing Director, Messe Düsseldorf India, points out: “We are very delighted with the brilliant response received from the retail industry for In-store Asia 2023. The event has yet again made its mark by bringing together relevant business opportunities for both exhibitors and visitors. In-store Asia 2023 had something for everyone looking to network and learn from peers and associates in the industry. The event has always been a key meeting point for bellwethers, innovators, distributors, brands and retailers. The 2023 edition has been greatly appreciated for the futuristic ideas and solutions presented both on the expo floor as well as through the dialogues at the convention. I am certain that the connections made here will result in great business prospects for all.”

Elke Moebius, Director Retail & Retail Technology at Messe Düsseldorf, also draws a positive conclusion: “In-store Asia has again confirmed its position as a platform for retail innovations, impressive customer journeys, and shopper-focused strategies that stage physical stores as vibrant, appealing shopping destinations that can captivate and thrill shoppers. Everyone attending here could feel this sense of new departures and investment in the Indian retail sector.”

The 3-day event was accompanied by a Convention under the heading “Humanise, Hybridise, Hyper Localise Retail Experience” where more than 30 speakers delivered talks on such topics as retail research, visual merchandising, shopper marketing and design innovations, to name but a few. Another highlight was the presentation of the coveted VM & RD Retail Design Awards, for which India’s top talents from the Retail Design, Visual Merchandising and Manufacturing sectors competed with each other in 23 distinct categories of store design and window display. At the VM Challenge, six teams of visual merchandisers from renowned brands and companies demonstrated the day before how they conceptualise and realise a shop window within one hour under a given theme and design brief.