From the Sector

Two new research labs are being built by AkzoNobel at its Sassenheim site in the Netherlands to further propel the company’s product development.

Work is about to start on building a technology center for Powder Coatings, while a new polymer lab has just opened which will develop innovative resin technologies for all the company’s businesses.

The total investment in the Sassenheim site – AkzoNobel’s largest global R&D center – amounts to around €8 million. The facility already houses the biggest R&D teams in Europe for the company’s Decorative Paint and Automotive and Specialty Coatings businesses. The addition of the two new labs will help the company further build on its global reputation for product development focused on providing creative solutions for customers.

The recently opened polymer lab – part of the company’s Research organization – will accommodate 15 scientists. It will mainly focus on the development of more sustainable polymer technologies and new coatings to support AkzoNobel’s ambition to halve carbon emissions across the value chain by 2030.

AkzoNobel employs around 3,000 R&D professionals worldwide in 70 laboratories, with more than €1.25 billion having been spent on research and development over the last five years.

With the aim to help the denim industry reduce the environmental impact of its wastewater and move towards circularity, Archroma, G-Star RAW and Advance Denim have renewed their joint commitment to the production of aniline-free denim apparel based on Archroma’s DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30.

Their joint aim is to produce high-quality denim in authentic blue shades without the aniline impurity carried through from the synthesis of standard synthetic indigo. In traditional denim production, this aniline remains bound with the indigo pigment on the fabric; the remaining aniline is discharged during the dyeing and washing process. This can be a problem because aniline is toxic to aquatic life and two-thirds of aniline waste currently ends up in wastewater discharge where it could potentially pollute waterways and the ocean.

Archroma developed DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 to answer this key challenge. A 30% pre-reduced indigo solution, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 makes it possible to produce indigo-dyed denim without aniline impurities throughout the process.

Easy to use with automated dosing, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 reduces the water needed for preparation, washing and wastewater treatment compared to indigo grains. It also reduces hazardous chemical consumption while allowing high reproducibility and creating the authentic and iconic deep indigo shades traditionally associated with denim.

G-Star RAW is working towards making 20% of its entire collection from Cradle to Cradle Certified® fabrics by 2025. Its partnership with Archroma and Advance Denim contributes to this goal, since the aniline-free DENISOL® holds a Gold Level Material Health Certificate from the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute. DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 is also compliant with other eco-standards and the requirements of leading retailers and brands.

Advance Denim, G-Star RAW and Archroma have previously collaborated to launch collections based on Archroma’s EarthColors® technology, which upcycles plant waste from the herbal industry to create sustainable colorways.

The “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2024” held in Cologne on 13-14 March demonstrated the innovative power of the cellulose fibre industry. Several projects and scale-ups for textiles, hygiene products, construction and packaging showed the growth and bright future of this industry, supported by the policy framework to reduce single-use plastic products, such as the Single Use Plastics Directive (SUPD) in Europe.

40 international speakers presented the latest market trends in their industry and illustrated the innovation potential of cellulose fibres. Leading experts introduced new technologies for the recycling of cellulose-rich raw materials and gave insights into circular economy practices in the fields of textiles, hygiene, construction and packaging. All presentations were followed by exciting panel discussions with active audience participation including numerous questions and comments from the audience in Cologne and online. Once again, the Cellulose Fibres Conference proved to be an excellent networking opportunity to the 214 participants and 23 exhibitors from 27 countries. The annual conference is a unique meeting point for the global cellulose fibre industry.  

For the fourth time, nova-Institute has awarded the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” Award at the Cellulose Fibres Conference. The Innovation Award recognises applications and innovations that will lead the way in the industry’s transition to sustainable fibres. Close race between the nominees – “The Straw Flexi-Dress” by DITF & VRETENA (Germany), cellulose textile fibre from unbleached straw pulp, is the winning cellulose fibre innovation 2024, followed by HONEXT (Spain) with the “HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0)” from fibre waste from the paper industry, while TreeToTextile (Sweden) with their “New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre” won third place.

Prior to the event, the conference advisory board had nominated six remarkable innovations for the award. The nominees were neck and neck, when the winners were elected in a live vote by the audience on the first day of the conference.

First place
DITF & VRETENA (Germany): The Straw Flexi-Dress – Design Meets Sustainability
The Flexi-Dress design was inspired by the natural golden colour and silky touch of HighPerCell® (HPC) filaments based on unbleached straw pulp. These cellulose filaments are produced using environmentally friendly spinning technology in a closed-loop production process. The design decisions focused on the emotional connection and attachment to the HPC material to create a local and circular fashion product. The Flexi-Dress is designed as a versatile knitted garment – from work to street – that can be worn as a dress, but can also be split into two pieces – used separately as a top and a straight skirt. The top can also be worn with the V-neck front or back. The HPC textile knit structure was considered important for comfort and emotional properties.

Second place
Honext Material (Spain): HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0) – Flame-retardant Board made From Upcycled Fibre Waste From the Paper Industry
HONEXT® FR-B board (B-s1, d0) is a flame-retardant board made from 100 % upcycled industrial waste fibres from the paper industry. Thanks to innovations in biotechnology, paper sludge is upcycled – the previously “worthless” residue from paper making – to create a fully recyclable material, all without the use of resins. This lightweight and easy-to-handle board boasts high mechanical performance and stability, along with low thermal conductivity, making it perfect for various applications in all interior environments where fire safety is a priority. The material is non-toxic, with no added VOCs, ensuring safety for both people and the planet. A sustainable and healthy material for the built environment, it achieves Cradle-to-Cradle Certified GOLD, and Material Health CertificateTM Gold Level version 4.0 with a carbon-negative footprint. Additionally, the product is verified in the Product Environmental Footprint.

Third Place
TreeToTextile (Sweden): A New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre
TreeToTextile has developed a unique, sustainable and resource efficient fibre that doesn’t exist on the market today. It has a natural dry feel similar to cotton and a semi-dull sheen and high drape like viscose. It is based on cellulose and has the potential to complement or replace cotton, viscose and polyester as a single fibre or in blends, depending on the application.
TreeToTextile Technology™ has a low demand for chemicals, energy and water. According to a third party verified LCA, the TreeToTextile fibre has a climate impact of 0.6 kg CO2 eq/kilo fibre. The fibre is made from bio-based and traceable resources and is biodegradable.

The next conference will be held on 12-13 March 2025.

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, announces its membership to Paris Good Fashion, the association that unites over 100 French players in the sector - brands, designers and experts - around their commitment to sustainable fashion. CARBIOS is the first recycling technology supplier to join, demonstrating the importance given to recycling to achieve textile circularity. By contributing its solution for the biorecycling of polyester, the world's most widely used and fastest-growing textile fiber, CARBIOS aims to contribute Paris Good Fashion’s mission, which focuses on concrete actions, best practice sharing and collective intelligence to accelerate change in the fashion industry.

CARBIOS will be particularly involved in the association's project to set up a working group dedicated to the development of a "fiber-to-fiber" industry, one of Paris Good Fashion's top priorities over the next five years. While only 1% of textiles are currently recycled fiber-to-fiber (circular), this working group will identify levers for significantly increasing the share of recycled fibers in the industry.  Polyester currently follows a linear model from which we need to break out: virgin polyester is made from petroleum, and recycled polyester from PET bottles. After use, most of these products end their lives in landfill or incineration. A circular, "fiber-to-fiber" industry will give new life to textiles and reduce the environmental impact associated to their end-of-life management.

Building on a renewed five-year strategy, Fashion for Good selects ten new innovators for its 2024 programme to receive tailored support validating their technologies. This cohort represents an increased focus on novel footwear material and recycling technologies, man-made cellulosics, and nylon recycling.

The 2024 Innovation Programme provides support based on the development stage and ambitions of each innovator, matching them with relevant industry partners to drive technology and impact technology and impact validation as well as investing activities.

The selected innovators joining the 2024 Innovation Programme are:

• Algreen Ltd: Algreen co-develops alternative materials from algae and biobased sources that can replace fossil-based products such as PU.
• Balena: Balena creates biodegradable partly biobased polymers for footwear outsoles.
• Epoch Biodesign: Epoch Biodesign is an enzymatic recycler of PA66 and PA6 textile waste.
• Fibre52: Fibre52 is a bio-based solution replacing traditional bleach prepared-for-dyeing and dye processes.
• Gencrest BioProducts Pvt Ltd: Gencrest works with various agri-residues to convert them into textile-grade fibres using their enzymatic technology.
• HeiQ AeoniQ: HeiQ AeoniQ™ is a continuous cellulose filament yarn with enhanced tensile properties.
• Nanollose - Nullabor: Nullarbor™Lyocell is developed from microbial cellulose which is converted into pulp pulp to produce a lyocell fibre with their partner Birla Cellulose.  
• REGENELEY:  REGENELEY pioneers advanced shoe sole recycling technologies by separating and recycling EVA, TPU, and rubber components found in footwear.
• Samsara Eco: Samsara Eco is an enzymatic recycler of PA66 and PET textile waste.
• SEFF: SEFF Fibre produces cottonised fibres and blends of hemp fabrics utilising a patented HVPED process.

• Three out of four business units with record sales and results
• Carbon Fibers business weighs on the Group's profitability
• Group sales of €1,089.1 million (-4.1%) and adjusted EBITDA of €168.4 million (-2.5%) in a difficult market environment
• Sales and earnings forecast for 2023 achieved despite drop in demand from key market
• 2024 further capacity expansion in graphite components for silicon carbide-based semiconductors

In fiscal year 2023, SGL Carbon achieved the sales and earnings targets set at the beginning of the year despite the drop in demand from the important wind market and an increasingly challenging economic environment. Group sales decreased slightly by €46.8 million (minus 4.1%) to €1,089.1 million (previous year: €1,135.9 million). At € 168.4 million, adjusted EBITDA, a key performance indicator for the Group, was also down slightly (minus 2.5%) compared to the previous year (€172.8 million) but was clearly within the forecast range for 2023 of €160 to 180 million.

While the positive sales development of the Graphite Solutions (+€53.5 million to €565.7 million), Process Technology (+€21.6 million to €127.9 million) and Composite Solutions (+€0.8 million to €153.9 million) business units had a positive effect, the Carbon Fibers business unit had a negative impact on Group sales with a sales decline of €122.3 million to €224.9 million.

Outlook
The global economy will continue to face comparatively high interest rates and subdued growth prospects in 2024. Tighter financing conditions, weak trade growth and a decline in business and consumer confidence are also weighing on the economic outlook. In addition, heightened geopolitical tensions are contributing to increased uncertainty.

SGL Carbon expects different developments in our key sales markets in 2024. The most important sales and earnings driver will be demand for specialty graphite components for the semiconductor industry. In contrast, all indicators currently suggest that demand for carbon fibers for the wind industry will remain weak in 2024 and that the Carbon Fibers (CF) business unit will therefore continue to record operating losses. Even if demand picks up, SGL Carbon assumes that Carbon Fibers will require additional resources to make the most of market opportunities. With this in mind, teh company announced on February 23, 2024, that they are reviewing all strategic options for Carbon Fibers. These also include a possible partial or complete sale of the business unit.

SGL Carbon's sales forecast for the financial year 2024 takes all four operating business units into account, as the company is only at the beginning of evaluating the strategic options for CF. In line with the assumptions outlined, SGL Carbon is therefore expecting Group sales at the previous year's level (2023: €1,089.1 million).

In the earnings forecast, SGL Carbon has taken into account underutilization of production capacity in the Carbon Fibers business unit and the associated high idle capacity costs. The projected operating loss of CF will have a negative impact on the adjusted EBITDA of the SGL Carbon Group in 2024. Due to the expected positive development of Graphite Solutions, SGL Carbon anticipates an adjusted EBITDA of between €160 million and €170 million for fiscal year 2024, taking into account all four operating business units. Should the process of reviewing all strategic options for the CF business unit result in a sale, the forecast of adjusted EBITDA in 2024 would be between €180 - 190 million.

STFI will be presenting high-end textile products and solutions at Techtextil 2024. The highlights from current research results and innovations provide an insight into the digitalisation of textile production, show applications for 3D printing and smart technical textiles and provide examples of particularly sustainably designed products as well as innovative approaches for protective and medical textiles.

The central highlight of STFI's presence at Techtextil is a robot system that demonstrates the automated processing of a bobbin frame on a small scale. The pick-and-place application demonstrates camera-supported gripping of the bobbins. The robot is part of the STFI's “Textile Factory of the Future” which demonstrates automation solutions for the textile industry in a laboratory environment.

From the field of sustainable products and solutions, a sleeping bag with bio-based and therefore vegan filling material and a natural fibre-based composite element for furniture construction, in which LEDs and capacitive proximity sensors for contactless function control have been applied using embroidery technology, will be on show. Printed heating conductor structures demonstrate current research work for the e-mobility of the future, as the individually controllable seat and interior heating should ultimately reduce weight and save energy compared to conventional heating systems.

While a protective suit for special task forces protects against the dangers of a Molotov cocktail attack, a shin guard and a knee brace with patellar ring illustrate the process combination of 3D printing and UV LED cross-linking. Other highlights from lightweight textile construction include the rib of a vertical rudder of an Airbus A320 and a green snowboard made from recycled carbon fibres.

Groz-Beckert offers interested machine builders various cooperation opportunities to jointly develop new products or improve existing ones. In collaboration with Vanguard Pailung, a manufacturer of ultra-high-speed knitting machines for body-size products, Groz-Beckert has developed an innovative slider needle for a new generation of machines. Groz-Beckert's Technology and Development Center (TEZ) provides the appropriate framework for so-called co-development projects.

In June 2022, Vanguard Pailung approached Groz-Beckert with a cooperation request. Together with Groz-Beckert, the company wanted to develop a new needle solution for an innovative ultra-high-speed machine. Together with an innovative slide needle, the new machine was to exceed the speed and productivity of known knitting systems of large circular knitting machines.

Machine and needle development ran in parallel and were closely coordinated. The first field tests took place in the Vanguard Pailung laboratory in Monroe/NC, USA in February 2023. The successful development was presented to a wide audience for the first time at ITMA 2023 in June.

Unlike latch needles, slide needles do not form the stitch via a needle latch, but via a slide that is controlled by its own channel. The advantage of this is that the needle can withstand high speeds, as there is no latch impact, which in turn increases productivity.

The use of the new slide needle in ultra-high-speed machines ensures a particularly high level of process reliability. With the new needle variant, the closer is guided safely and precisely in the groove in the needle shank. At the same time, the base of the needle shank is closed, which ensures maximum stability. The slider needle reliably prevents the so-called latch impact and thus makes a decisive contribution to process reliability. Its use ensures a uniform and speed-independent loop structure, even at maximum speeds.

Ahead of UEFA Euro 2024™, adidas unveils the latest series of technical performance kits for Belgium, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Scotland, Spain, and Wales.

Each of the jerseys are built to inspire a sense of pride and belonging, blending traditional elements with modern style to create something new for the next generation of players, including:

• Fresh application of national colours and exploration into new bolder hues – for example, the ‘Tricolore’ for Italy's home and away shirts, and a vibrant colour scheme for Germany’s away kit
• Recoding traditional patterns and applying them in fresh ways. This includes a modern interpretation of tartan in the Scotland shirt, and patterns reflecting the carnation - the national flower – which adorn the base of Spain’s home and away kits 
• Introducing fresh symbols to traditional federation wear, such as the Belgium away kit which celebrates the nation’s rich art and design culture, specifically cartoonist, Hergé, and the comic character he is famously known for; Tintin. Inspired by Tintin’s iconic outfit, a royal nod is found on the back of the collar with a golden crown that glimmers against a bright blue backdrop  
• Across the collection, a blend of dynamic shapes and colours express the jubilation and hope that fans and players share ahead of, and during, a major tournament

Each jersey includes either HEAT.RDY technology, optimized to keep players feeling comfortable, or AEROREADY technology, sweat-wicking or absorbent materials that keep players feeling dry. Lighter crests and additional mesh panels are also applied, helping improve airflow and comfort, to help players focus on the game at hand.

The adidas Euros kit collection will be available from from March 14, 2024.

KARL MAYER has already produced a wide range of electrically conductive warp-knitted items for a wide variety of applications in the TEXTILE-CIRCUIT division of its TEXTILE MAKERSPACE, including a sensor shirt, a gesture control system and a conductive charging station. In order to drive the topic of wearables forward, the textile machine manufacturer has signed a cooperation agreement with the Grabher Group and delivered an MJ 52/1-S to the specialist for high-tech textiles in Lustenau. Managing Director Günter Grabher officially inaugurated the key machine for project work in the smart textiles sector in May 2023.

The machine is involved in various research projects, but is also available for new projects and tasks. The smart textiles competence team at KARL MAYER and Grabher is looking forward to supporting the ideas and work of interested parties also outside the research network with its know-how and the possibilities of the MJ 52/1-S.

The MJ 52/1 S is also an extremely flexible project machine. The 138″ model in gauge E 28 produces a wide range of warp-knitted fabrics and incorporates conductive material directly into the textile surface - exactly where it is needed and with the structure that is required. The basis for the tailor-made fiber placement is KARL MAYER's string bar technology. The system for controlling the pattern guide bars ensures a fast, established textile production process and a high degree of pattern freedom.