From the Sector

• Pioneering pilot project conducted with Hong Kong based brand Chicks
• A large majority of consumers wants brands to disclose their supply chain
• Transparency ensured from fiber-to-retail

The Lenzing Group has made a huge leap forward in introducing blockchain technology, allowing for a new level of transparency and traceability in the textile industry. After joining the platform of the technology company TextileGenesis™ earlier this year, the world market leader in specialty fibers made from the renewable raw material wood presented the first pilot at this year’s Fashion Summit in Hong Kong on September 05, 2019. This pioneering pilot project was conducted in close cooperation with TextileGenesis™, WWF and Hong Kong based brand Chicks.

Oerlikon Barmag recently signed contracts for two orders with a total of 120 spinning positions for manufacturing polyamide POY yarn with Chinese yarn manufacturers. What makes this so special is the fact that all positions will be equipped with the EvoQuench radial quenching system for polyamide.

With this, two well-known yarn manufacturers are now committing to the EvoQuench concept to produce polyamide yarn, equipping themselves for the efficient manufacture of microfiber yarns in the process. The benefits of radial quenching vis-à-vis conventional cross-flow quenching when manufacturing microfibers are well-known from polyester processing: manufacturing outstanding quality in a more production-reliable manner, i.e. with fewer yarn breaks, is a convincing argument and makes producing polyamide microfibers considerably more efficient. “Used to create fabrics, the materials feel very pleasant to the touch”, comments Stephan Faulstich, Head of Development POY Process at Oerlikon Barmag, who has held the results of the currently sole operator of such a system in his hands. “I can imagine this will be used above all in the manufacture of sports apparel and underwear.”

• Production capacities increased to 320,000 tons p.a.
• Investments of EUR 60 mn enhance self-sufficiency and strengthen autonomy from market prices
• Project serves as a significant economic driver in the region

Lenzing AG, producer of pulp and fibers from the renewable raw material wood, has concluded its expansion and modernization drive at the pulp plant at the Lenzing site. The company invested EUR 60 mn for this purpose, increasing production capacities for dissolving pulp extracted from beech wood from 300,000 to 320,000 tons per year. The coming on stream of the additional pulp capacities over the past weeks strengthens Lenzing’s self-supply of pulp in accordance with the sCore TEN corporate strategy.

“The successful expansion brings us closer to achieving our strategic objective of increasing our self-supply of pulp to a level of 75 percent, thus making us even more resistant to price fluctuations in sourcing pulp”, says Stefan Doboczky, CEO of the Lenzing Group. “We are also pleased that this project enables us to make a further significant contribution towards strengthening the Lenzing site as well as the regional economy”, Mr. Doboczky adds.

The expansion drive was completed in less than two years. In addition to 100 Lenzing Group employees, numerous external partner companies from Upper Austria and neighboring regions were involved in implementing the project. About 40,000 working days were needed by external companies in order to install the delivered machinery on site. The Lenzing Group secured additional jobs due to the pre-production work required in the factories of these suppliers.

In line with the corporate strategy of the Lenzing Group, the self-supply of dissolving wood pulp will be successively increased in the coming years to 75 percent of consumption. At present, Lenzing’s own pulp plants in Lenzing and Paskov (Czech Republic) cover 60 percent of the Group’s pulp requirements. The Lenzing site primarily makes use of beech wood which is not suitable for producing furniture, whereas it mainly relies on spruce wood in the Czech Republic. The remaining dissolving wood pulp is sourced from a variety of hardwoods and softwoods from international partners. In this case, in the spirit of sustainability, Lenzing applies procurement rules which are just as strict as when it purchases wood for its own pulp production.

As the role of lingerie in fashion and athleisure continues to augment, the desire for garments that will meet a new set of values for contemporary consumer lifestyles will flourish.  

ROICA™ - the pioneer of innovative stretch fibres, took this year’s Interfilière visitors on an inspirational journey, aimed at encouraging weavers, designers and brands to “engineer” their portfolio of products in new and exciting ways. The company sets a whole new standard in how creativity and responsibility can come together for a new generation of wardrobe solutions dedicated to the contemporary consumer, carving out a new kind of fashion future.

Below some unique developments born from the collaboration among ROICA™ and key premium brands:

COSABELLA produced by Collezioni SRL: The brand sells in over 100 countries, with a premium collection of 2000 styles for every sector of lingerie and leisurewear. Latest styles use a delicate floral lace by Tessitura Colombo Antonio made with ROICA™ V550 belonging to the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family for their more luxurious upscaled lines.

Livy selects Iluna Group’s contemporary graphic stretch lace with ROICA™ EF for the precious “BELLAGIO” line that includes a soft triangle bralette, a padded bra, a brief and a body for optimal comfort. The must-have range has a stunning aesthetic which represents the unique appeal of this lifestyle brand.

Sarah Borghi: the worldwide known brand of luxury Italian fashion hosiery, tights, and socks. They've dedicated more than 40 years scrutinizing the finest yarns and evolving technologies and breathing flawless life into their unique range of luxurious fashion. Today, Gizeta Calze S.r.l., owner of this brand, has developed the first line made out of sustainable ingredients that will be launched at the ROICA™ booth during Interfilière. The collection, developed in Italy by Almatex, blends together key smart fibers such as ROICA™ EF and Q-Nova®, and ROICA™ V550 with  AMNI SOUL ECO®. 

Vitamin A: the Californian brand offers a unique swimwear line rooted in female empowerment. Vitamin A’s beachwear is made with the finest materials and finishes, ensuring a product that will fit and wear beautifully for years to come. Among the  incorporated more sustainable high-performance fabrics shines a unique jacquard development by Maglificio Ripa with a 3D texture made with the GRS certified premium responsible stretch ROICA™ EF and Q-NOVA® by Fulgar. Vitamin A is a member of 1% For The Planet and  donate to environmental organizations who work to protect our oceans.

Wolford was one of the first brands to explore the real value of ROICA™. Known for its exceptional European Skinwear including legwear, lingerie and bodywear, the company has been striving to develop fully degradable items at the end of the product lifecycle. On top of last year’s award for being Cradle to Cradle Certified™ at GOLD Level certification for the biological cycle, Wolford was also recognised for its technical cycle using Econyl® yarn made by Aquafil (always blended with ROICA™ V550).

Each brand Partner brings a different yarn story firmly into the limelight, and all feature ingredients from the ROICA™ portfolio of yarns respecting the company’s commitment to ‘responsible innovation’, and which all boast important sustainable certifications.

Reinach, Switzerland  - Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, recently launched at the ITMA exhibition its new Foron® SP-WF, a range of high wet-fast disperse dyes for sportswear and active wear applications.

The Foron® SP-WF dyes are especially suited for the coloration of polyester fibers and microfibers, and polyester/elastane blends, in exhaustion application.
The Foron® SP-WF dyes were developed in compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable, economically and ecologically.

The new product is at the core of Archroma's Fast Sport, a coloration system for polyester knitted sportswear, providing the best fastness in the shortest possible time with a reduced environmental footprint.
The Foron® SP-WF range which includes primary and ternary color grades has been developed to fulfil the high color wet fastness and performance requirements of sportswear manufacturers and brands.
Moreover, the core ternary color grades enable deep shades at lower dyeing temperatures on sensitive polyester/elastane fabrics without causing excessive fiber damage, saving energy resources and meeting the high fastness demand of leading brand companies.

When using Foron® SP-WF dyes as part of the Fast Sport system, manufacturers can in many cases have the potential to significantly reduce their consumption of time, energy, chemical, and water, as well as their CO2 emissions.

“We see a growing demand for apparel in the sportswear and active wear segment, reinforced with the now installed athleisure trend,” says Mark Dohmen, Head of Archroma’s Competence Center Automotive and Synthetic Dyes. “Consumers want deep color that stays put on the fiber and brands are defining their requirements accordingly. With our Foron® SP-WF, we can offer to manufacturers of sportswear textiles a solution that combines high levels of wet fastness with high productivity and low resource consumption. Because it’s our nature!”

The italian Company Filidea s.r.l., specialized in technical and performing products made out of natural, synthetic and artificial fibers, announces the acquisition of Hoftex CoreTech GmbH from the German group Hoftex. The agreement was signed on May 18th, the closing time for this acquisition is fixed on September 1st. Through this acquisition, Filidea confirms its international dimension, consolidates its leadership within the sector of technical yarns and expands its presence in the European territory.

The last frontier of innovation in racing suits made with yarns in Metamicro is the model Prime SP-16+, designed in collaboration with the Team McLaren Honda F.1

The spinning mill Filidea, joint venture between Marchi & Fildi spa and Abalıoğlu Holding A.Ş specialized in technical and high performance yarns with natural and synthtic fibers, is parter of Sparco, italian Company leader for the production of automotive components and technical apparels for the most important world Championships. The cooperation between the two Companies located in Piedmont, northern Italy, is focused on the supply of yarns with Metamicro in an exclusive composition, that are used for the production of the racing suits Sparco of the Premium range for Formula 1 and the World Rally Championship. The fire resistant yarn Metamicro based on aramidic fibers are a product of the latest generation, for their production it is necessary a special spinning line. The production is following the strict Sparco standards. Sparco controls all the production chain of racing suits, from Filidea, who has the competence to dye all the yarns with aramidic fibers in its own dyeing plant, to the woven fabric, produced and dyed in its own plant, to the woven fabric made by the italian Company TAT, till the production of garments. The process is always improved and tested.

Metamicro yarns are made by an high peformance spinning process. They are used for the production of fire resistant fabrics, that make a protection barrier for the body against flames and high temperature. The very fine micronage allows the production of very light fabrics with thick texture, the perfect base for light and comfortable suits. These features assure easier movements to the driver and the maximum protection from fire, keeping high breathability.

Filidea has invested on its production capacity of corespun yarns with XLANCE® technology, fiber used for the production of longlasting workwear apparel with an excellent fitting.

The spinning mill Filidea, joint venture between Marchi & Fildi spa and Abalıoğlu Holding A.Ş specialize in technical and high performance yarns with natural and synthtic fibers, is increasing its production of blends with XLANCE®.

XLANCE® is the innovative elastolefin fibe, elastic, chlorine and UV resistant. It finds application on workwear and outdoor clothing, with natural and comfort fitting. The comfort stretch feature follows the the body’s natural movement during the day-to-day work. Workwear clothing are so light, resistant and with a contemporary look. Resistance to abrasion and to frequent industrial laundry cycles with chemical products meet the needs of several professional sectors. XLANCE® is produced by ©Xlance srl, Company located in Varallo Pombia (province of Novara – Piedmont – Italy) that found in Filidea the perfect partner for the development of specific yarns, that are getting more and more requested. An innovation that is getting more important thanks to the cooperation of the two textile Companies located in Piedmont. Filidea has been producing XLANCE® yarns since 2009 and has now a great know-how. The Company to strengthens its leadership in technical yarns, for the main applications on protetictive garments, workwear, sportswear, racing and automotive. Filidea has developed and consolidated several partnerships for the creation of complete supply chains and the collaboration with ©Xlance is a perfect example.

• Clean Technology. Smart Factory.

Remscheid – Oerlikon invites all visitors to this year's ITMA in Barcelona on a journey into the future of manmade fiber production. From 20 to 26 June 2019, the world market leader will show all its guests its vision of a sustainable and automated manmade fiber production in a virtual 4D showroom at its 1,000 m² stand in Hall 7, A101: "Clean Technology. Smart Factory." is the motto of the future. And this is only a stone's throw away from reality at the stand. Because today Oerlikon is presenting four world premieres for efficient machine and plant concepts in a new, innovative industrial design. Together with numerous other innovations, all this forms the new DNA of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment.

The challenges for the manmade fiber industry are manifold and Oerlikon shows its customers solutions:

1. Choosing the right business model
Price pressure on fiber and yarn manufacturers is growing due to global market consolidation. Here it is important to position oneself correctly. Are you producing polyester, nylon or polypropylene for the niche market and skimming off good margins with innovative products and ingenious material properties, or are you looking for business success through economies of scale in the volume market such as the constantly growing apparel sector? Oerlikon has the right answers for both business models. And the most important thing: the market leader supplies all solutions from a single source. See for yourself at the world premieres of the machine and system concepts of WINGS FDY PA6, BCF S8 Tricolor and the revolutionary eAFK Evo texturing machine.

2. Finding alternatives for good personnel
Finding good operators in the manmade fiber industry is becoming increasingly difficult, even in emerging industrial nations such as China, India and Turkey. The solution is obvious. What, for example, the automotive industry achieved years ago with the 3rd Industrial Revolution is now also taking its course in the textile industry. And at the same time it is even shifting up a gear. In the next step, automation in combination with digitization will lead to new, sustainable production. Oerlikon will be showing how automation and digitization interact at ITMA. Self-learning machines and systems, artificial intelligence (AI), remote services and edge computing are just a few of the key words in the digital half of the new Oerlikon Manmade Fibers DNA.

3. Guarantee quality and traceability
The qualities of the fibers and yarns must meet the highest demands and their production must be traceable throughout the textile value chain. This no longer only plays an important role in the automotive industry, where safety is of paramount importance. Other branches of industry that use fibers, yarns and nonwovens also want to know where the raw materials they produce for consumer articles come from. Legal regulations are demanding this more and more frequently. Oerlikon offers optimal solutions with its DIN ISO certified manufacturing processes. More than half of the world's manmade fiber producers are convinced every day that the qualities produced on Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven equipment are right – and all visitors to ITMA can do the same on site.

4. Efficient and sustainable production
In the future, the materials produced from manmade fibers must become part of a further improved global recycling economy. The recycling of polyester – with over 80% market share the most frequently used manmade fiber in the world – has not only been on the agenda since today. Oerlikon already has solutions at hand: from PET bottles to fibers and filaments, to textiles and carpets. ITMA is the next step. With the VacuFil® Oerlikon in cooperation with the subsidiary company BBEngineering presents the world premiere No. 4 – a recycling solution within a running polyester production with a waste-free approach.

Vision becomes reality
The Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment thus demonstrates what the ITMA in Barcelona promises as the world's leading trade fair for textile machinery and plant construction: "Innovating the world of textiles – sourcing for a sustainable future". In Hall 7, A101, this is already reality.

This year’s Annual General Meeting of Lenzing AG resolved today, Thursday, April 17, 2019, to distribute a dividend of EUR 3.00 per share as well as a special dividend totaling EUR 2.00 per share. On balance, the dividend will amount to EUR 5.00 per no-par value share for the 2018 financial year (compared to EUR 5.00 per share in the previous year). The dividend payment is scheduled to take place on April 25, 2019, whereas ex-dividend day is on April 23, 2019.

The Annual General Meeting also adopted a resolution discharging the members of the Management Board and the Supervisory Board for the 2018 financial year, and also resolved upon the remuneration to be paid to the Supervisory Board members for the 2018 and 2019 financial years. KPMG Austria GmbH Wirtschaftsprüfungs- u. Steuerberatungsgesellschaft was appointed to serve as the auditor of the annual and consolidated financial statements for the 2019 financial year.

Effective at the end of this Annual General Meeting, Hanno Bästlein, the previous Chairman of the Supervisory Board, as well as Christoph Kollatz have retired from the Supervisory Board at their own request. “We would like to thank Hanno Bästlein and Christoph Kollatz for their dedicated work on the Supervisory Board of Lenzing AG. Thanks to their expertise, they made a major contribution to important strategic decisions in the company. During his four years as Chairman of the Supervisory Board, Hanno Bästlein decisively supported the strategy of the Lenzing Group and thus contributed to the enhanced resilience of the company based on the expansion with specialty fibers”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of Lenzing AG.

• Christian Bruch and Stefan Fida proposed to serve as new members of the Supervisory Board
• Hanno Bästlein and Christoph Kollatz will resign from their positions on the Supervisory Board at the upcoming Annual General Meeting

Prior to the Annual General Meeting of the publicly traded company Lenzing AG scheduled for April 17, 2019, the Nomination Committee dealt with the future composition of the Supervisory Board. It has proposed that the Annual General Meeting appoint Christian Bruch to serve on the Supervisory Board. Mr. Bruch has been a member of the Executive Board of Linde AG since 2015 and a member of the Management Committee of Linde plc since 2019. The graduate in mechanical engineering will contribute his extensive experience in plant engineering and various technical and management positions in internationally operating industrial companies. The Viennese lawyer Stefan Fida has also been nominated as a future member of the Supervisory Board.

As previously announced, Hanno Bästlein will resign from his position on the Supervisory Board at the upcoming Annual General Meeting in order to be able to increasingly devote his attention to his own business activities. Christoph Kollatz will also step down from the Supervisory Board for professional reasons at the Annual General Meeting in April 2019.

“We would like to thank Hanno Bästlein and Christoph Kollatz for their dedicated work on the Supervisory Board of Lenzing AG. Thanks to their expertise, they made a major contribution to important strategic decisions in the company. During his four years as Chairman of the Supervisory Board, Hanno Bästlein decisively supported the strategy of the Lenzing Group and thus contributed to the enhanced resilience of the company based on the expansion with specialty fibers”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of Lenzing AG.