From the Sector

Haelixa has partnered with C&A, one of Europe’s leading fashion retailers, to advance the traceability of its organic cotton. The partnership stems from C&A’s commitment to working with others in the apparel industry to pilot and scale innovation. C&A’s targets include supporting the growth of organic cotton without synthetic pesticides and fertilisers, resulting in cleaner waterways, healthier ecosystems, and lower farmer costs.
 
The partnership between Haelixa and C&A began in 2022 with a pilot project, and since then, they have continuously worked together to trace raw materials. The result is this agreement with Haelixa to mark their organic cotton for the next three years. Using Haelixa’s DNA markers, C&A can trace the journey of its organic cotton from farm to finished garment. According to the C&A Sustainability Report, they are working with other organisations to foster organic cotton farming.  
 
Alexandre Saus-Salas, Head of Sourcing at C&A, commented, “Transparency and ethical sourcing are crucial in our supply chain. As part of our commitment to traceability, we have begun implementing Haelixa DNA within our organic supply chain. This gradual rollout will continue over multiple seasons in 2025, with an impact foreseen over the next three years.”
 
Haelixa’s solution utilises DNA markers to create a tamper-proof, verifiable traceability that tracks organic cotton throughout the supply chain. The cotton, sourced through CottonConnect, is marked with unique DNA, which acts as a specific identifier. Once applied, the cotton is tested throughout the supply chain to verify the material using forensic PCR tests. Traceability with the fiber-forward approach ensures the final garment materials are authentic.  
 
The marking ensures the authenticity of organic cotton and mitigates the risk of sourcing from regions associated with forced labour.  Using the Haelixa markers enables C&A to make reliable statements about the presence of organic cotton in its products marked at the field level (in the ginning process).
 
Patrick Strumpf, CEO of Haelixa, noted, “Trust is the foundation of transparent storytelling. By tracing organic cotton from farm to finished garment, we empower brands like C&A to tell an authentic story, fostering greater consumer confidence in their sustainability efforts.”
 
This project is one of the initiatives that C&A has undertaken to enhance accountability through its supply chain. One of the goals listed in their Sustainability Report is enabling customers to make informed choices by increasing transparency around products and the company. The traceability of organic cotton demonstrates that innovation can support business success through customer trust.

Unveiled at the forthcoming Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris trade fair, from 10 to 12 February at the Paris-Le-Bourget Exhibition Centre, the trend book for the Spring-Summer 2026 season opens up new creative worlds where emotion attempts to regain the upper hand over pure materials.

Entitled Néocène, the new forward-looking journey proposed by Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud, the artistic directors of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, explores a world undergoing profound change. Conceived against a backdrop of severe economic, social and environmental tensions, this document is the result of cross-referencing and analysing emerging signals detected and interpreted by a panel of stylists, designers, graphic artists, authors and scenographers. In four major themes, it sets out an aesthetic framework to help fashion designers and buyers develop their spring-summer 2026 collections.

1 wardrobe, 4 universes
A new era without humans, the Néocène is a clean slate, an indefinable horizon that obeys only the laws of physics. New shapes, new colours: each theme in this trend book reflects a creative universe organised around specific materials and 3 “star colours” in 6 intermediate shades. Presented in the introduction, these colours provide a glimpse of the palette for the collections to come.

#1 Quantum.
In this universe of atoms, everything is just energy, chance and freedom. This first proposal plunges back into the heart of substance with fluid, heated and incandescent materials, on the edge of solid and liquid. The soft textures and expanded forms are particularly at home here, and express themselves in a radiant, sunny colour system: spicy flavours, tones of tan and caramel are very present.

#2 Gravity.
“The structure of the universe [...] An invisible interdependence.” This theme plays on the multiple meanings of gravity: a heaviness that is both physical and emotional. Mineral and sandy materials, repetitive or sequential geometrical patterns, all find their place here, as do aqueous aspects and biomimetic and animal-inspired forms. The colour palette here is clearly diaphanous and serious, natural and diffuse.

#3 Relativity.
This proposition should be seen as a deepening of the previous theme, until the propositions are reversed: “Ugly has become beautiful [...] Stillness accelerates”. A world of oxymorons in which graphic motifs express a mummified vegetal world, supported by lines shaped like imprints, draped textures, embroideries intended as traces of an anterior world. The colours are those of ash, tattoo ink, animal... The blues and mauves are dark and intense.

#4 Magnetism.
In stark contrast to the other universes, this axis exalts order and renewal, and brings lightness, even fragility, to the creative approach. Transparency is assertive, as are floral motifs and curved, ample and comfortable lines. The colour palette is in tune with the emotion of the theme: marshmallows, sweet flavours, peach and blush pink are at the heart of the theme.

A new layout to maximize synergies
The return of the Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris shows to Halls 2, 3 and 4 of the Paris-Le-Bourget Exhibition Centre is accompanied by an exciting new space organisation to make the buying experience even more efficient and inspiring. At the heart of hall 2, the Trends Forum will captivate visitor with its four dynamic themes, and will also house all key services, including the Agora for engaging conferences and lively round-table discussions, as well as inviting restaurants. In terms of products and services, some Texworld and Apparel Sourcing sectors have been brought together to promote synergies, with coherent areas devoted to women's clothing (Hall 4) and outdoor-sportswear-casualwear (Hall 3). This layout not only makes the Apparel Sourcing offering easier to navigate but also optimises the entire sourcing process, providing a more streamlined and productive experience.

Last week, the White House announced that President Joe Biden would not implement a tariff rate quota on imports of fine-denier polyester staple fiber (PSF) in response to a section 201 safeguard case filed by U.S.-based fiber producers.

The President announced an import quota only on imports of fine-denier PSF under the temporary importation under bond (TIB) program, which is predominately used in woven textiles and apparel and is not expected to impact nonwovens.

President Biden opted not to implement a tariff rate quote or other measures that were recommended by the U.S. International Trade Commission citing that other industries, including nonwoven manufacturers, would be negatively impacted by such actions, President Biden’s proclamation stated that:

“While the USITC Commissioners recommended that I impose a tariff-rate quota on fine denier PSF imports, I have determined not to do so…[t]herefore, I have decided to tailor this safeguard remedy to TIB entries of fine denier PSF. Furthermore, I have determined not to impose a tariff-rate quota on imports of fine denier PSF in the interest of balancing the competing interests of domestic fine denier PSF manufacturers and the impact of the safeguard remedy on downstream United States producers, including manufacturers of textiles, defense products, and consumer products, that rely on fine denier PSF.”

This decision comes after several U.S.-based nonwovens producers commented to the White House Trade Policy Staff Committee and the USITC that the nonwovens industry would be harmed by actions that would raise the costs of fine-denier PSF. INDA submitted comments outlining the concerns of many nonwovens producers. Government affairs director Wes Fisher testified before the Trade Policy Staff Committee at the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative hearing on September 30th.

ALLIED Feather + Down (AF+D), a leader in high performance, ethically sourced, and recycled down, announced that their new 1000 Fill Power ExpeDRY down jacket is a 2024 ISPO Award winner.

Created in partnership with Japanese-based textile trading company MN Inter-Fashion, the jacket is made from an extremely rare, traceable 1000 fill power down treated with ALLIED's industry-first ExpeDRY water-resistant, chemical-free technology that more effectively speeds drying via FUZE® Technology’s proprietary gold microparticle treatment. The fabric by Pertex, one of the lightest textiles available, makes up the shell and liner.

With the exceptional lightness of the 1000-fill power down and extremely light weight 5d Pertex fabric, AF+D has succeeded in creating a parka that feels like wearing a cloud. The ExpeDRY technology, which is quickly replacing other water resistant treatments as the industry standard for extreme performance in down insulation, ensures this jacket will remain lofty in any urban or mountain setting, no matter the conditions.

The award-winning 1000 Fill Power jacket joins a growing line of ALLIED apparel that is specifically designed with a look to the future, where the lines between fashion and performance outerwear continue to blur. The complete ALLIED collection is currently available for sale in Japan and Europe. 

Global Fashion Summit, the international forum for sustainability in fashion, presented a special Shanghai Gala edition on 7 November during the China International Import Expo (CIIE). The event was presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) and Chinamind NEXT and gathered key local and international fashion industry stakeholders for an evening of compelling discussions during a gala dinner at The St. Regis Shanghai Jingan.
 
Global Fashion Summit: Shanghai Gala was centred on the theme, ‘Unlocking the Next Level’, and built on insights from the Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition held in May. By hosting the Summit in Shanghai—a dynamic city that melds tradition with innovation and sets global trends—the event aimed to promote dialogue and cross-country collaboration to influence sustainable practices on an international scale.
 
Throughout the evening, guests heard from distinguished speakers from companies including COACH, H&M Group, Piaget China, Chinamind NEXT, Décor Global, Erdos Cashmere Group, Target, Balian Group, and more. Discussions addressed critical topics such as ‘Circularity at Scale’, ‘Shaping Sustainable Retail’, and ‘Ambition to Action’, spotlighting key strategies for accelerating the implementation of sustainability across the fashion value chain.
 
At the event, GFA announced the publication of The GFA Monitor 2024 - a resource designed to guide industry leaders towards creating a net positive fashion industry. Launched ahead of COP29, this year's publication serves as a streamlined update, highlighting both significant advancements and ongoing challenges in the industry.
 
Federica Marchionni, CEO, Global Fashion Agenda, says: “The inaugural edition of Global Fashion Summit in China marked an evening of profound thought leadership, demonstrating the opportunity for the industry to convert ambitious goals into meaningful actions with ripple effects felt across communities and ecosystems worldwide. In this new era, we are forging critical dialogues and alliances at the Summit, which we plan to build upon at our next Summit in Copenhagen next year.”
 
Ms. Lynn Fu, CEO, Chinamind NEXT, remarked, “The arrival of Global Fashion Summit in Shanghai as the most respected summit in the sustainable fashion industry, marks a significant milestone. It has sparked profound discussions among participants on the theme of Unlocking the Next Level. As the world’s largest consumer of apparel and textiles, China has a substantial impact on driving sustainable industry trends and cultivating consumers’ green preferences. When Chinese fashion companies and international brands collaborate more passionately on their sustainable visions, profound and enduring benefits for the industry will be delivered.”
 
During the event, GFA also announced the official launch of ticket sales for the upcoming Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2025, scheduled for 3-5 June next year. The theme for the 2025 edition was revealed as ‘Barriers and Bridges’, which will guide the discussions and actions planned for next year’s summit.

For the first time, a piece of clothing is made entirely from textile waste – no bottles, no packaging, no virgin plastic. 100% biorecycled fibers. By developing and industrializing CARBIOS’ enzymatic depolymerization technology to achieve 100% “fiber-to-fiber” recycling, the consortium collectively advances the textile industry's shift towards a circular economy.

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, and its “fiber-to-fiber” consortium partners On, Patagonia, PUMA, Salomon, and PVH Corp., parent company of Calvin Klein, unveil the world’s first enzymatically recycled polyester garment made from 100% textile waste using CARBIOS’ pioneering biorecycling technology.

This technological feat contributes to advancing textile circularity when, today, the majority of recycled polyester is made from PET bottles, and only 1% of fibers are recycled into new fibers.  The collective achievement marks an important milestone for the consortium’s ultimate aim of demonstrating fiber-to-fiber closed loop using CARBIOS’ biorecycling process at an industrial scale, and marks an important step forward for the textile industry’s shift towards a circular economy.

A plain, white T-shirt was a deliberate choice to showcase the technological achievement that made its production possible from mixed and colored textile waste.  By using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology, polyester is broken down using enzymes into its fundamental building blocks which are reformed to produce biorecycled polyester whose quality is on par with oil-based virgin polyester.  Petroleum can now be replaced by textile waste as a raw material to produce polyester textiles, that will in turn become raw materials again, thus fueling a circular economy, with the added benefit of a lower carbon footprint and avoidance of landfill or incineration.

The t-shirt’s production began with all consortium members (On, Patagonia, PUMA, PVH Corp. and Salomon) supplying rolls and production cutting scraps to CARBIOS in Clermont-Ferrand, France.  This textile waste consisted of some mixed blends with cotton or elastane, as well as various treatments (such as durable water repellent) and dyes which render them complex to recycle using conventional methods. The collected waste was deconstructed into its original monomers, PTA and MEG, using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology at its pilot facility. The resulting monomers were then repolymerized, spun into yarn and woven into new fabric by external partners, demonstrating the seamless integration into existing manufacturing processes.  The resulting sports t-shirt made from 100% textile waste meets the quality standards and sustainability objectives of the apparel brands present in the “fiber-to-fiber” consortium.

CARBIOS’ demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand, France, has been up and running since 2021, and its first commercial plant, the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant, is currently under construction in Longlaville, France.  In addition, CARBIOS recently announced several letters of intent with PET producers in Asia and Europe, confirming global interest in its biorecycling technology and advancing the international roll-out of its licensing model.

In recent years, Vietnam has rapidly transformed into one of the world’s key textile producers, solidifying its position as the world’s third-ranked exporter behind China and Bangladesh. With a history rooted in silk textile craftsmanship and currently embracing wide ranging modern textile production, the country’s thriving sector offers tremendous growth prospects for both domestic and international businesses. In a bid to harness the potential in Vietnam and Southeast Asia, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will return from 26 – 28 February 2025, with a renewed focus on promoting sustainability and digital transformation.

Vietnam's textile and apparel sector comprises approximately 7,000 companies and employs over three million workers, with 80% of production capacity used for export and 20% for domestic consumption. Progress is aided by well-developed logistics networks, skilled labour and a stable political environment. As its textile industry evolves, several key trends are influencing its future direction, reflecting a growing emphasis on sustainability and technological advancement, and leading to new opportunities for exhibitors and buyers across the value chain at Vietnam’s comprehensive textile showcase.

Major trends shaping Vietnam's textile market reflected at VIATT
More Vietnamese enterprises are adopting eco-friendly materials, including organic cotton, recycled polyester, and Tencel, while numerous global brands manufacture in Vietnam, and have committed to the "Fashion Industry Charter on Climate Action", aiming to achieve net-zero carbon emissions by 2050.

To further advance sustainable initiatives in the domestic and international textile industry, VIATT 2025 will introduce Econogy Hub, a dedicated platform for innovative, eco-friendly suppliers and service providers to connect with like-minded visitors. The show’s other new Texpertise Econogy features will include the Econogy Finder, an independent verification tool to help sustainable exhibitors effectively communicate their green credentials, and Econogy Talks, the overarching category for eco-focused seminars, forums, and product presentations.

Apart from sustainability, the Vietnamese textile industry is also embracing advanced technologies in design and manufacturing. The launch of the fair’s Innovation & Digital Solutions Zone will provide a centralised platform for exhibitors to showcase innovations such as 3D printing, AI-driven design, and digital printing, which enable manufacturers to boost efficiency and customise products to meet specific market demands.

As well as the introduction of two new product zones, the India Pavilion, organised by The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), will also make its debut at VIATT 2025. Additionally, the Japan and Taiwan Pavilions have confirmed their return, with the Japan Pavilion recognised by VIATT’s visitors as a standout showcase within Southeast Asia's textile fair landscape. Overall, the fair will feature a diverse range of exhibitors across apparel, home textiles, and technical textiles, with many showcasing innovative and sustainable products.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), covering the entire textile industry value chain.

Utilizing renewable materials* and formaldehyde-free chemistries, the industry-first Archroma NTR Printing System combines newly created pigment black and customized auxiliaries for enhanced sustainability, comfort and durability
 
Archroma, a company in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, introduced the NTR Printing System to make bio-based pigment printing commercially possible for the first time. Based on renewable raw materials and designed for safer chemistry, it helps apparel and textile brands reduce their environmental footprint while producing brilliant black shades on garments that deliver both comfort and durability.

Bio-based pigment printing is an emerging technology that is attracting major interest from brands that want to use pigments derived from natural sources, such as plants, in the production of environmentally conscious textiles. Until now, however, bio-based pigments have not delivered color fastness that is comparable to synthetic pigments, and color quality and production performance have not been sufficient to support commercial-scale production.

Archroma’s NTR Printing System is the first to utilize renewable feedstock across pigment dispersion, binder and fixing agent. Crucially, it ensures good wet-rubbing and dry-rubbing fastness, with outstanding softness on all kinds of fabrics. Furthermore, it is suitable for most popular application technologies, including printing, coating and continuous pigment dyeing, with outstanding runnability for production efficiency.

“These properties make the new NTR Printing System ideal for the highly competitive denim market, where sustainability, comfort and durability are important; for knits, where very soft handfeel is essential; and on babywear, where both exceptional softness and safety are required,” Joaquin Femat, Market Segment Director for Printing, Archroma, said.

The result of more than two years of research and development, the innovative new NTR Printing System required Archroma to create customized binding and fixing agents to ensure fastness for the pigment black dispersion comparable to current petroleum-based printing systems. All three printing elements are partially based on renewable feedstock to reduce reliance on non-renewable petrochemicals. Archroma also developed the new system to avoid toxic input streams and impurities, including formaldehyde. Two successful bulk trials were conducted with Textprint S. A. and Jeanologia.

The NTR printing system comprises the following highly efficient and robust printing elements:

• PRINTOFIX® BLACK NTR-TF: A non-gelling pigment black with 79% renewable carbon content*, designed for use in textile applications with no impact on fastness levels.
• HELIZARIN® NTR-SS: A formaldehyde-free super-soft binder with 40% renewable carbon content, designed to ensure very good overall fastness levels.
• LUPRINTOL® FIXING AGENT NTR-HF: A formaldehyde-free fixing agent with 40% renewable carbon content**, designed for high wet fastness in rubbing and laundry.

All three elements are currently being evaluated for compliance with globally accepted standards like bluesign®, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). The system also supports major industry restricted substances list (RSL) requirements.

Rajiv Sharma has been appointed as the new Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of Archroma with key responsibility for the Textile Effects business, effective October 1, 2024. Current Group CEO Mark Garrett will transition to the Archroma Board of Directors.

Rajiv Sharma comes to Archroma following a 14-year tenure with Coats Group plc, where he was Group Chief Executive for the last eight years. As head of the UK-listed company, which is the world leader in thread manufacturing and structural components for apparel and footwear, Mr. Sharma created a platform for profitable growth and shaped a company culture based on customer centricity, innovation, digitalization and sustainability.

In parallel with these leadership changes, Archroma’s Packaging Technologies business will be established as a focused business activity from October 1, 2024, with the aim of increasing its focus on the packaging business and accelerating its development. It will continue under the leadership of its CEO, Sameer Singla, who will report directly to the Archroma Board of Directors. Packaging Technologies has also delivered substantial growth with more dedicated leadership over the past two years and the organizational changes will help both Textile Effects and Packaging Technologies continue to focus on best serving their respective customers and markets.

Dow has announced the launch of DOWSIL™ IE-9100 Emulsion for durable water repellent (DWR) finishing, the latest addition to the Dow Ecolibrium™ Brand portfolio, as a product for high-performing water repellent fabrics.

An 81% bio-based silicone-organic hybrid formulation honored with both the R&D 100 Award and the SEAL Sustainable Product Award, DOWSIL™ IE-9100 Emulsion is designed to match the water repellency performance of fluoro-containing emulsions, making it a good option for high-performance outerwear fabrics, including athleticwear, outdoor garments and equipment, personal protective equipment, and footwear.

DOWSIL™ IE-9100 Emulsion offers formulators and brand owners key performance advantages expected of performance apparel and technical textiles, including the ability to tailor the level of water repellency to match the specific end-use needs. It also boasts excellent water-based stain protection and color fastness as well as good tape adhesion and logo printability. It can be applied across a wide range of fibers, both natural and synthetic, and helps maintain the breathability of fabrics and membranes to maximize comfort. Additionally, it is compatible with standard manufacturing processes, allowing for ease of use for finishing mills and is certified OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT.

On October 10th at 10 a.m. CEST / 4 p.m. CST, Isabelle Riff, along with Yusuke Kuwana and Jacob Milne, Dow Scientist, Textiles, will present the specifics of this new product during a dedicated webinar titled “Advancing textiles’ durable water repellency with silicone hybrid, bio-based technology.”