From the Sector

In the latest technology innovation from members of TMAS (the Swedish textile machinery association), ACG Kinna and ACG Nyström have teamed up with Juki Corporation – the world’s leading sewing machine manufacturer – in the development of a new automated line concept that can considerably speed up the production of finished filter bags.

Woven or nonwoven filter bags employed in a wide range of industrial processes may be under the radar as products, but they represent a pretty significant percentage of technical textiles production.

According to a recent report from BCC research, a leading US analyst covering this sector, industrial filtration represented a $555 million market in 2019 and some of the key areas where such filter bags are employed include:

• Metal fabrication, with effective filtration required for manual and automated welding, thermal cutting, blasting and machining, especially for coolant filtration.
• The process and energy industries, including foundries, smelters, incinerators, asphalt works and energy production plants.
• Other key manufacturing fields – often where dust is generated – including the production of timber, textiles, composites, waste handling and minerals, in addition to chemicals, food production, pharmaceuticals, electronics and agriculture.

Line integration
The new SFL-2000 line is the result of a four-year development project between Juki Central Europe, headquartered in Poland, and the two ACG companies.

It is capable of handling a wide range of different filter media, and as an all-in-one solution, can produce high quality and accurate seams to pre-defined parameters, with optional modules allowing for customised constructions.

In the latest short film released on the Monforts YouTube Channel – captured at the recent Denim Première Vision show in London – some of the leading global manufacturers discuss their initiatives for more sustainable denim production.

Cone Denim, based in Greensboro, North Carolina, for example, can lay claim to having put in place its first environmental control measures back in the 1940s when the company first started recycling its water.

“It was a method of efficiency even back then, eighty years ago,” says Gabriel Magopat, of the company’s UK customer service centre, “but  producing high quality products is another method of being sustainable and of being efficient, and I think that’s what Cone stands for. We have an amazing history.”

Cone Denim is known for its signature S Gene® stretch denims which have traditionally incorporated polyester components to provide the stretch. It has now partnered with Intrinsic Advanced Materials of Gastonia, also in North Carolina, to introduce patent-pending CiCLO stretch polyester fibres into its denim collections. 

While still being synthetic based, CiCLO polyester is able to biodegrade in marine environments, wastewater treatment plants and landfill conditions, at rates similar to natural fibres like wool. 

This more sustainable solution for stretch is also being introduced to China for the first time by another leading denim supplier, Advance Denim.

“Advance Denim is spending its resources on being the most technologically advanced company in China, and also the most sustainable,” says Mark Ix, the company’s Director of Marketing. “We are investing heavily in our manufacturing to save both water and chemicals to create cleaner products.”

Monforts denim customer Berto is a family-owned company with its main denim mill in Bovolenta, a small rural town near to Padua in the north east of Italy, where respect for the environment has always been a must.

“The family has always been focused on respect for the environment,” says Berto’s Marketing Manager Francesca Palento. “In particular, we have a river next to the company from which we take our water for production and we then return it cleaner than it was before. We are also now producing GOTS and Global Recycling Standard jean produced with yarns made from our own internal waste production.”

Pakistan’s Soorty has recently received Cradle to Cradle Gold certification – the most stringent and exacting sustainable standard currently in existence – for its Pure D range of denims. These are produced using the company’s proprietary Zero Waste Water dyeing technology, in combination with the most advanced Monforts finishing machines. 

“Our very latest collection is called Climate Jeans, because every single product we now produce draws attention to the climate emergency we are living through right now,” says Eda Dikman, Soorty’s Marketing Communications Manager. “Sustainability is very important to us because we produce at scale and all of the actions we take reflect on the planet.”

DOMO Chemicals, a global leading player in engineering nylon materials towards sustainable solutions, today announced its transition plan for the function of Chief Executive Officer. The Board of Directors of DOMO has appointed Yves Bonte to succeed current CEO Alex Segers during February 2020. Mr. Segers has held the CEO position at DOMO since the Company started its chemical activities in 1994 and will continue to play an important role in the transformation of Solvay’s European Performance Polyamide and DOMO into one company. Closing of the acquisition of Solvay’s European performance Polyamide Business by DOMO is expected to take place on January 31st.

Alex Segers commented, “I feel privileged to have been given the opportunity to work with the DOMO team over the past twenty-six years, which has really been an incredible journey. We are now entering the next level for the company by integrating very soon the European Performance Polyamides Business from Solvay. In Yves we have found the ideal person to pass the baton to. We look forward to a seamless transition.”

Gregory De Clerck, Managing Director of Domo Investment Group and Member of the Board of DOMO Chemicals commented, “I would personally like to thank Alex for his leadership in the successful growth and transformation of DOMO from an upstream nylon 6 specialist into a full integrated engineering materials company developing innovative and sustainable solutions in the Polyamide Industry. We are excited to welcome Yves Bonte to DOMO as the new CEO and Chairman of DOMO Chemicals. We believe he is the ideal person to lead the next chapter of the Company’s growth and transformation process. Alex will continue to significantly contribute to the success of new DOMO.”

Yves Bonte joins DOMO from Yara, the leading fertilizer company and a provider of environmental solutions where he held the role of Executive Vice President Industrial recently named New Business since January 2010, and was responsible for a business generating appr. 20% of Yara’s total revenue of 12.9 billion USD. Prior to Yara, he held a variety of business leadership, commercial and operations roles at Lyondell Basel and Exxon Chemicals. Since 2018 Yves is as Board Member of DOMO.

“I have a true passion for innovation and sustainability, and I am thrilled to join DOMO as its next CEO,” Yves Bonte commented. “The Company has established itself as a leader in sustainable polyamide based on its strong technology-driven product portfolio with a solid foundation to further build upon. I believe DOMO is uniquely positioned to support its customers’ manufacturing processes in a cost effective and sustainable manner. The recently announced long-term strategy and planned investment will position DOMO to reach new levels of growth and success.”

• Group sales increases by approximately 6 percent compared to the prior year period to 832 million euros due to organic growth in the market segments Digitization, Energy and Chemicals
• Group recurring EBIT at around 54 million euros; adjusted for a positive one-time effect in the prior year approximately on the comparable level of the prior year
• Business unit Composites – Fibers & Materials (CFM) deteriorated substantially in the third quarter 2019 due to the weak development in the market segments Textile Fibers, Wind Energy and Industrial Applications; Graphite Materials & Systems (GMS) developed better than expected on the very good level of the prior quarter reaching overall a record high level in 9M/2019
• Free cash flow from continuing operations improved significantly in the first nine months
• Impairment testing triggers a non-cash impairment charge of approximately 75 million euros in CFM in the third quarter
• Revised guidance of October 25, 2019: Recurring EBIT at CFM in a negative mid-to-high single digit million euros amount and on Group level at 45 to 50 million euros
• Countermeasures initiated to improve earnings of CFM
• Dr. Michael Majerus, Spokesman of the Board of Management of SGL Carbon: ”The structural growth drivers remain intact in our strategically relevant markets. The countermeasures to improve earnings of CFM will be implemented consistently.”

In the third quarter 2019, the business units of SGL Carbon developed very differently. While Graphite Materials & Systems (GMS) showed better than expected results, Composites – Fibers & Materials (CFM) deteriorated compared to the two previous quarters. This is attributable to the weaker development in the market segments Textile Fibers and Industrial Applications. In total, sales revenue in the first nine months 2019 grew by approximately 6 percent to reach 832 million euros. Recurring Group EBIT after nine months reached approximately 54 million euros. Adjusted for a positive one-time effect in the prior year, this was comparable to the prior year level.

In its ad-hoc notification of October 25, 2019, the company revised its guidance for recurring EBIT of CFM downwards to a negative mid to high single digit million euro amount. On the Group level the company now expects a recurring EBIT at 45 to 50 million euros. Due to the lower starting point in 2019 as well as the ongoing weakness in the market segments Textile Fibers and Industrial Applications in the business unit CFM a non-cash impairment charge in the amount of approximately 75 million euros was recorded in the third quarter 2019. In recent years acquired assets of the former joint ventures with BMW and Benteler were not affected by this impairment. In addition, the impairment charge of CFM led to a valuation allowance on deferred tax assets in the amount of 7.4 million euros. Against this background, SGL Carbon now expects a net result of approximately minus 100 million euros for fiscal year 2019.

• Bangladesh’s biggest denim expo takes place 5-6 November
• The show runs concurrently with the Sustainable Apparel Forum Bangladesh
• From 4-6 November, Bangladesh becomes the perfect meeting point for stakeholders in the global apparel industry

DHAKA - Responsibility is the theme of the 11th Bangladesh Denim Expo which takes place on 5th and 6th November at International Convention City in Bashundhara, Dhaka. The event, now firmly established as one of the world’s leading denim trade shows, runs alongside the Bangladesh Sustainable Apparel Forum.

Bangladesh Denim Expo

Around 100 exhibitors from 11 countries, including host Bangladesh, will participate in this year’s denim expo. Other participating countries are china, Japan, Italy, India, Singapore, Brazil, Spain, Pakistan, Turkey and Germany.

H&M Group is collaborating with Bangladesh Denim Expo for the forthcoming 11th edition of the event and a number of guest speakers will be present from the company, including Pierre Borjesson, head of sustainability, global production. Other guest speakers include Andrew Olah, the founder of Kingpins Denim show, Alice Tonello, R&D director with the Tonello Group, world renowned denim designer, Piero Turk and Jordi Juani, Asia regional director with Jeanologia.

Through a series of product displays, presentations, seminar sessions & panel discussions, the Expo will encourage healthy debate and interaction among exhibitors and visitors to champion a more responsible denim industry. One of these, of course, is sustainability and within this sits the issue of responsibility – an overriding theme of this year’s event. Denim manufacture faces huge challenges with regards its social and environmental responsibility, with production techniques having potentially far-reaching ramifications for the environment as well as people involved in the production process.

However, the industry and its supply chain are making impressive progress on these issues with Bangladesh – now the world’s largest producer of denim – leading the way in terms of addressing some of the sustainability challenges relating to denim production, including excessive use of water and chemicals. Mostafiz Uddin is the organiser of Bangladesh Denim Expo. Uddin has watched with interest the evolution of the denim industry, with each Expo marking continued and gradual progress being made by the more progressive players in the industry.

Uddin says: “The way that business and product development is conducted can have far reaching consequences on the environment, on the people that make the product and the product’s end use & life-span. “It is the duty of all stakeholders in the apparel industry to acknowledge this responsibility and to analyse our business practices, for the benefit of all.” Emphasising the theme of responsibility within Denim Expo is the fact that revenues from the expo support the running and presentation of the Sustainable Apparel Forum.

Sustainable Apparel Forum

The Sustainable Apparel Forum (SAF) is the biggest annual sustainable apparel event in Bangladesh. Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) along with Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) as co-organiser will jointly carry out the 2nd edition of the SAF on 5th Nov 2019.

This is the second edition of the Sustainable Apparel Forum, with the first-ever forum held in 2017 in Dhaka. The objective of this year’s forum is accelerating the momentum of sustainability in Bangladesh apparel industry.

The forum will see more than 50 speakers gathered from Bangladesh and overseas sharing expert opinions across five panel discussions covering current issues in the country’s apparel industry. These include human resources, transparency in business, water conservation, purchasing practices, sustainable chemical management, waste management, circular economy in textiles and climate change to name a few.

Additionally, the conference will host several knowledge building technical presentations from renowned organisations which will cover different issues relating to sustainability, including waste management, protection of the environment and better working conditions.

Speakers at the show include Md. Shahriar Alam, MP, Honourable State Minister, Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Bangladesh, H. E. Benoit Préfonatine High Commissioner, High Commission of Canada, Bangladesh, and Dr. Rubana Huq President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers’ and Exporters’ Association, Sheikh Fazle Fahim, President, Federation of Bangladesh Chamber of Commerce & Industries, Pierre Börjesson, Head of Sustainability – Global Production, H&M Group, Tuomo Poutiainen, Country Director, International Labor Organization, Peter McCallister, Executive Director, Ethical Trading Initiative and H.E. Winnie Estrup Petersen Ambassador, Embassy of Denmark, Bangladesh.

Prior to this year’s conference, the Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in Bangladesh and the Sweden Embassy in Bangladesh will also co-host two roundtable discussion in collaboration with BAE and in association with BGMEA on 4 November, 2019, while H&M, Better Work Bangladesh and C&A Foundation are partners in the event.
The conference will be followed by showcasing different innovative, sustainable & best work practices in RMG manufacturing factories in Bangladesh. Following the discussions, a series of recommendations will be made, and a Sustainability Roadmap for the Bangladesh apparel industry will be formulated.

This year’s SAF promises to be the biggest yet. Added by Mr Mostafiz Uddin in the recent press briefing for the event: “The title for this year’s Sustainable Apparel Forum is enabling sustainability through policy and leadership. The time for talking on sustainability issues is over. It is now time for actions. That’s why the focus of this year’s show is on practical, pragmatic actions the textile industry can adopt to improve its environmental footprint.”

Singapore - Huntsman Textile Effects today confirmed that it has joined the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme as a Contributor. This adds a new dimension to Huntsman’s long-standing efforts to promote sustainable chemistry and best practice in the textile and footwear industries and help lead the sector’s shift to a cleaner and more transparent global supply chain.

Huntsman Textile Effects is proud to be joining over 25 leading brands working together to drive industry-wide change in responsible chemicals management and commits to working on this task in a collaborative and open manner.

As a ZDHC Contributor, Huntsman Textile Effects has uploaded detailed safety and sustainability information of its key products onto the ZDHC Gateway Chemical Module. This will support brands and mills in selecting products and practices to make their supply chains more sustainable. Huntsman Textile Effects will also continue to work to help brands improve their competitiveness while protecting consumers, workers and the environment.

The addition of industry-leader Huntsman Textile Effects to the ZDHC Contributor base represents a significant strengthening of ZDHC as a robust, broad-based solution with the potential to harmonize the industry’s approach to sustainable chemistry and the elimination of hazardous chemicals.

“Huntsman Textile Effects firmly believes that collective action is the best way forward for our industry and that working with ZDHC will help us further accelerate the shift to a cleaner and more transparent supply chain,” said Rohit Aggarwal, President, Huntsman Textile Effects. “As one of the world’s leading suppliers of sustainable textile dyes, inks and chemicals, we have seen time and time again that brands and mills that embrace sustainability can also boost their productivity and competitiveness and reduce costs. Our approach has always been to marry environmental and economic sustainability for a stronger, cleaner and more viable textile sector.”

Huntsman Textile Effects has been a leader in promoting sustainability through continuous innovation and industry collaboration for many years. It champions an inclusive and holistic approach that ensures compliance to industry regulation and standards and considers the impact of the textile value chain on the ecosystem, economy and society at large.

Die Vereinbarung umfasst die Bereiche Technische Kunststoffe in Frankreich und Polen, Hochleistungsfasern in Frankreich, Polymer- und Zwischenprodukte in Frankreich, Spanien und Polen.

• Die Übernahme wird das nachgelagerte nylonbasierte Geschäft mit technischen Werkstoffen von DOMO Chemicals deutlich stärken und einen europäischen Marktführer von Format hervorbringen.
• Die starke Reputation der Marke Technyl® wird das Polyamid-Portfolio von DOMO perfekt ergänzen.

DOMO Chemicals und Solvay haben heute eine Vereinbarung zur Übernahme des europäischen Performance-Polyamid-Geschäfts von Solvay unterzeichnet. Die Vereinbarung umfasst die Bereiche Engineering Plastics in Frankreich und Polen, High Performance Fibers in Frankreich, Polymer- und Zwischenprodukte in Frankreich, Spanien und Polen. Die Vereinbarung beinhaltet auch ein Joint Venture zwischen BASF und DOMO in Frankreich zur Herstellung von Adipinsäure.

• For Soft Vibrant And Durable Pigment Prints

Reinach, Switzerland - Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, has recently launched at the ITMA exhibition its new Helizarin® LTC New liq, a formaldehyde-free* low temperature curing binder for pigment printing on all kinds of fibers.

Prints are increasingly popular in apparel and interior textiles, as they allow us to express ourselves through vibrant colors and patterns. Consumers are especially drawn to the soft touch of an elegantly printed fabric.

Creating soft and vibrant prints can however be challenging for textile manufacturers: Pigment printing is usually applied to the fabric with a binder that often contains formaldehyde, needs a high temperature for curing, and can make the fabric harsh to the touch.

That is why Archroma developed its new Helizarin® LTC New to allow textile manufacturers to address these challenges.

The innovation was developed in compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable, economically and ecologically.

Helizarin® LTC New is a binder designed for low temperature curing or no curing. This allows to reduce the fixation temperature and time compared to conventional pigment printing processes. In addition, manufacturers will not experience the change of shades that sometimes occur with high temperature processes.

When using Helizarin® LTC New, textile manufacturers can therefore improve the productivity of their printing process and reduce their energy consumption.

Helizarin® LTC New is also a welcome solution for textile manufacturers who do not have curing equipment, since it offers similar to better fastness than commodity binders that have been treated through a full process, and excellent fastness on synthetic fibers such as polyester and polyamide.

When it comes to the final result on the fabric, Helizarin® LTC New allows the creation of soft and durable prints for premium quality articles.

The new product will be the core of Archroma's Cool Print, a complete formaldehyde-free* system that keeps printed textiles soft and durable, and the planet cooler.

The system, which combines Helizarin® LTC New with Luprintol® softening and fixing auxiliaries and Printofix® pigment preparations, allows manufacturers to realize potential savings of up to 30% in processing time, 45% in energy consumption and 44% CO2 emissions – compared to benchmark pigment printing.

Helizarin® LTC New, as well as the Cool Print system, is formaldehyde free* and registered under REACH. It can be used in line with the ZDHC & bluesign® requirements, is compliant with the Oeko-Tex Std 100 Class 1 standard for baby wear, and with the MRSL of the most major brands.

“Helizarin® LTC New was developed by Archroma’s R&D team together with experts at our Global Competence Center for Printing, based in Barcelona, Spain”, says Joaquin Femat, Head of Business Development for Printing, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, at Archroma. “As The Archroma Way is based on Safe, Efficient and Enhanced as its three pillars, we designed an innovation that offers our customers a balanced combination of resource optimization, safe handling, and controlled effluent. Because it’s our nature!”
 

• Borealis’ EverMinds™ ambition moves industry one step closer to plastics circularity thanks to new recycling technology and improved recyclate
• Borealis also announces significant material improvements to existing Purpolen® recyclate materials

Borealis, a leading provider of innovative solutions in the fields of polyolefins, base chemicals and fertilizers, announces the introduction of a new plastics recycling technology, Borcycle™. This evolving technology will be used to produce high-quality compounds made of recycled polyolefins (rPO) such as the newly-launched Borcycle™ MF1981SY, an rPO with over 80% recycled content intended for use in visible appliance parts. Borealis also announces a series of significant material improvements to existing recyclates in the established Purpolen™ brand portfolio. These market launches and product improvements are important technology advancements and thus accelerate the transformation to a circular economy of plastics. Borealis and its wholly-owned subsidiary, mtm plastics, will showcase the new Borcycle technology and recyclate innovations at the K 2019 in October.

Borealis is leading the industry by applying its Visioneering Philosophy™ to the development and implementation of novel polyolefins-based solutions that enable plastics reuse, recycling, and recovery, and by designing for circularity. These wide-ranging activities are gathered under the symbolic roof of EverMinds™, the Borealis platform dedicated to promoting a more circular mind-set in the industry. By capitalising on its profound expertise in virgin polyolefins and collaborating with value chain partners, Borealis keeps discovering new opportunities for business growth within the circular economy.

Advancing technology to bring about polyolefin circularity

The new technology, Borcycle, transforms polyolefin-based waste streams into recyclate material such as pellets. As a transformative technology, it complements the existing Borealis virgin polyolefins portfolio with a range of pioneering, circular solutions. It unites state-of-the-art technology with the profound Borealis polymer expertise gained over decades.

As a scalable and modular technology, Borcycle has been developed to meet growing market demand for high-quality recyclate. Leading appliance brand owners, for one, have pledged to increase the amount of recycled plastics in their goods. Yet until recently, producers have not been able to rely on a consistent supply of high-quality recyclate. The Borcycle technology will help address this challenge. Compounds made using the Borcycle technology deliver high performance, add value and offer versatility. Producers and brand owners in a range of industries will profit from the availability of high-quality recyclate that helps them meet environmental and regulatory challenges.

“Advancing technology is crucial if our aim is to implement value-creating solutions in the circular sphere,” claims Maurits van Tol, Borealis Senior Vice President, Innovation, Technology & Circular Economy Solutions. “‘Building tomorrow together’ means innovating, collaborating, focussing on the customer, and above all – taking action. The launch of our new recycling technology Borcycle is tangible proof of our commitment to achieving plastics circularity.”

New and improved recyclate for high-end applications

Borcycle™ MF1981SY is the first of several upcoming launches of rPO solutions made under the umbrella of the Borcycle technology. Borcycle™ MF1981SY will be available to Borealis customers in Europe. The compound is an exciting addition to the rPO portfolio because it is a 10% talc-filled compound that contains over 80% recycled material. It offers an ideal balance between stiffness and impact. The compound is especially suited for use in visible black parts, for example in small appliances.

Like its relatives in the mtm plastics family of recyclate materials, Borcycle™ MF1981SY is a truly sustainable offering. Recyclates from mtm save approximately 30% of CO2 emissions compared to virgin materials.

A number of significant improvements have been made to existing recyclate grades in the Purpolen portfolio.

“Mechanical recycling is presently a most eco-efficient method to implement the principles of the circular economy,” explains Guenter Stephan, Head of Mechanical Recycling, Borealis Circular Economy Solutions. “Borealis and mtm plastics are leveraging their respective areas of expertise to make significant progress in achieving polyolefin circularity by upscaling recycling output and ensuring the reliable supply of high-quality plastics recyclate for European producers, in particular.”

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, will be at ITMA to launch its latest innovations and system solutions aimed to help textile manufacturers with optimized productivity and/or value creation in their markets.

Archroma offers a wide portfolio of dyes and chemicals aiming to increase sustainability and innovation along the entire value chain, from fiber to finish.

Archroma is reputed for its continuous flow of ground-breaking innovations, such as the EarthColors®, a range of dyes made from non-edible natural waste from the agricultural and herbal industry, Inkpresso®, a digital printing system that enables ink mixing on site and on demand, Smartrepel® Hydro, a nature-friendlier protection that keeps cotton, polyester and polyamide textiles dry, the Color Atlas, a revolutionary color system comprising of a physical and online library of 4,320 new colors developed on cotton poplin.

More recently, Archroma introduced the purest indigo, Denisol® Pure Indigo, an aniline-free* synthetic pre-reduced liquid indigo launched in 2018, Appretan® NTR, a new nature-based binder for nonwovens, and Fadex® AS New, a new “super UV protector” for automotive & transportation textiles, both introduced in May 2019.

At ITMA, Archroma will present 24 solution systems and 5 innovations, and will hold “Innovation & Solutions Sessions” at its booth to present them.

The systems and innovations presented by Archroma have all been selected for their compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable.