From the Sector

• Swiss weaving machinery manufacturers are in the forefront of novel application development

Shoes and electronic calculators are probably not the first products people would associate with the textile weaving process. But they certainly signpost the future for woven fabrics, as two examples of the ever-wider possibilities of latest technology in the field. Fashion and function already combine in the increasing popularity of woven fabrics for shoes, and this is a present and future trend. Calculators in fabrics? That’s another story of ingenious development, using so-called ‘meander fields’ on the back and keys printed on the front of the material.

These glimpses of the outlook for modern weavers are among the highlights of developments now being pioneered by Swiss textile machinery companies. All weaving markets require innovation, as well as speed, efficiency, quality and sustainability. Member firms of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association respond to these needs at every point in the process – from tightening the first thread in the warp to winding the last inch for fabric delivery. They also share a common advantage, with a leading position in the traditional weaving industry as well as the expertise to foster new and exciting applications.

Technology and research cooperation
The concept of a ‘textile calculator’ was developed by Jakob Müller Group, in cooperation with the textile research institute Thuringen-Vogtland. Müller’s patented MDW® multi-directional weaving technology is able to create the meander fields which allow calculator functions to be accessed at a touch. A novel and useful facility, which suggests limitless expansion.

Today, the latest woven shoes are appreciated for their precise and comfortable fit. They score through their durability, strength and stability, meeting the requirements of individual athletes across many sports, as well as leisurewear. Stäubli is well known as a leading global specialist in weaving preparation, shedding systems and high-speed textile machinery. Its jacquard machines offer great flexibility across a wide range of formats, weaving all types of technical textiles, lightweight reinforcement fabrics – and shoes.

It’s possible to weave new materials such as ceramics, mix fibers such as aramid, carbon and other, and produce innovative multi-layers with variable thicknesses. Such applications put special demands on weaving machines which are fulfilled by Stäubli high-performance TF weaving systems.

Great weaving results are impossible without perfect warp tension, now available thanks to the world-leading electronic warp feeding systems of Crealet. Some market segments in weaving industry today demand warp let-off systems which meet individual customer requirements. For example, the company has recognized expertise to understand that geotextile products often need special treatment, as provided by its intelligent warp tension control system. Individual and connective solutions are designed to allow external support via remote link. Crealet’s warp let-off systems are widely used in both ribbon and broadloom weaving, for technical textiles applied on single or multiple warp beams and creels.

Functional, sustainable, automated
Trends in the field of woven narrow fabrics are clearly focused on functionality and sustainability. The Jakob Müller Group has already embraced these principles – for example using natural fibers for 100% recyclable labels with a soft-feel selvedge. It also focuses as much as possible on the processing of recycled, synthetic materials. Both PET bottles and polyester waste from production are recycled and processed into elastic and rigid tapes for the apparel industry.

For efficient fabric production environments, it is now recognized that automated quality solutions are essential. Quality standards are increasing everywhere and zero-defect levels are mandatory for sensitive applications such as airbags and protective apparel.

Uster’s latest generation of on-loom monitoring and inspection systems offers real operational improvements for weavers. The fabric quality monitoring prevents waste, while the quality assurance system significantly improves first-quality yield for all applications. Protecting fabric makers from costly claims and damaged reputations, automated fabric inspection also removes the need for slow, costly and unreliable manual inspection, freeing operators to focus on higher-skilled jobs.

Smart and collaborative robotics (cobots) offer many automation possibilities in weaving rooms. Stäubli’s future oriented robotics division is a driver in this segment with first effective installations in warp and creel preparation.

Control and productivity
Willy Grob’s specialized solutions for woven fabric winding focus on reliable control of tension, keeping it constant from the start of the process right through to the full cloth roll. Continuous digital control is especially important for sensitive fabrics, while performance and productivity are also critical advantages. In this regard, the company’s large-scale batching units can provide ten times the winding capacity of a regular winder integrated in the weaving machine.

The customized concept by Grob as well as design and implementation result in great flexibility and functionality of the fabric winding equipment – yet another example of Swiss ingenuity in textile machinery.  
There is even more innovation to come in weaving – and in other segments – from members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association in future! This confident assertion is founded on an impressive statistic: the 4077 years of experience behind the creative power of the association’s member firms. It’s proof positive that their developments grow out of profound knowledge and continuous research.

• 75% recycled content yarn with no performance compromise
• A circular, endlessly recyclable solution for contract, automotive and residential carpets
• Significant resource efficiency in EqoCycle production compared to virgin-based PA6 yarn: 58% reduction in fossil fuel use; 27% less energy consumption; 37% CO₂ emission reduction

B.I.G. Yarns announces its latest development, EqoCycle, a fully recyclable PA6 yarn with 75% recycled content, offering the same high-quality performance of virgin PA6 yarn. The new recycled yarn mainly based on post-industrial waste supports contract, automotive and residential carpet manufacturers with a drop-in circular solution to reduce the ecological footprint of their end products.

EqoCycle is made with recycled granulates derived from pre-consumer recycled and regenerated PA6, certified by Control Union for Global Recycled Standard (GRS) Certification. The use of less virgin materials implicates a decrease of fossil fuels by 58% and a 27% decrease in energy consumption. On top, EqoCycle yarns allow a reduction of 37% of CO₂ eq./kg compared to the fossil based yarns. The environmental impacts of EqoCycle with 75% recycled content were calculated through an LCA analysis, verified according to ISO 14025 and EN 15804+A1 and published in an Environmental Product Declaration (EPD registration number S-P-02415).

Customers have the assurance that for every 1.000 tons of EqoCycle yarn, 13,562 barrels of oil are saved and 2.700 tons of CO₂ emission are reduced, compared to PA6 traditionally made from virgin materials.

Emmanuel Colchen, General Manager Yarns Division, comments: “EqoCycle is a perfect example of how higher resource efficiency in our industry can promote greater circularity in our customers’ industries. Minimizing waste, re-using materials, and saving energy and carbon emissions in production, it provides our customers and carpet brands with a new sustainable alternative that won’t compromise their end-product performance but will support their increasing focus on CO₂ reduction and global warming potential. All part of our wider commitment to encourage decoupling from the need for only virgin feedstocks and moving towards a circular economy for yarns and soft flooring industries.”

EqoCycle is the latest circular solution in B.I.G. Yarns’ PA6 portfolio, joining EqoBalance PA6, based on biomass balance renewable resources, which offers up to 75% CO₂ reduction. Both exemplify the company’s on-going investment in developing new products that better serve customers’ needs in a sustainable way. B.I.G. Yarns fully pursues opportunities to support and solve the global environmental challenges through innovation, investment and collaboration, as part of its sincere belief in, and broader commitment to, Social Responsibility.

The innovation of EqoCycle and EqoBalance PA6 aligns with the company’s active integration of the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) into its business activities, creating value for customers and engaging employees and value chain partners.

Technologies with an excellent environmental performance throughout the entire product life cycle – that is what “Autoneum Pure.” stands for. In future, components that meet the highest standards in terms of sustainability and eco-friendliness can be identified at a glance under this label. This also includes the innovation “Mono-Liner” for wheelhouse outer liners.

As innovation leader in acoustic and thermal management, Autoneum continuously invests in the development and production of resource-saving components that make cars lighter and thus more climate-friendly. In view of an increasing sustainability awareness and the correspondingly greater information needs on environmentally-friendly vehicle components, the Company has now launched Autoneum Pure. The label determines particularly sustainable technologies, thereby guiding car manufacturers in product selection for future models.

Autoneum Pure is based on a comprehensive set of criteria assessing the sustainability performance of a product in all four phases of its life cycle: material procurement, production, use and end of life. For example, components with a high content of recyclable materials or those that achieve significant weight savings compared to comparable standard components qualify for the “Autoneum Pure.” label. Autoneum already offers various multifunctional technologies that meet the high standards for Autoneum Pure products: Ultra-Silent for underbody systems or battery undercovers, Di-Light for carpet systems, Prime-Light and IFP-R2 for inner dashes and floor insulators as well as Hybrid-Acoustics PET for e-motor encapsulations and engine-mounted parts, which was launched in fall 2019.

With Mono-Liner, the latest innovation for wheelhouse outer liners is also included in the Autoneum Pure portfolio. Among other things, the Mono-Liner-based components convince thanks to their lightweight construction, thereby contributing to lower vehicle weight with correspondingly less fuel consumption and emissions. The excellent life cycle assessment is also based on their particularly resource-saving manufacturing: Production cut offs of the components, which consist to a large extent of recycled PET fibers, can be processed into pellets and completely returned to the manufacturing process as fibers. An SUV and a crossover model from a US vehicle manufacturer already benefit from Mono-Liner wheelhouse outer liners.

Anahid Rickmann, Head of Corporate Communications & Responsibility, explains: “With Autoneum Pure we are the first automotive supplier to establish a sustainability label in the field of acoustic and thermal management. Autoneum Pure is part of the Company's Advance Sustainability  Strategy 2025 and sets industry standards in product communication.”

Major technological changes to Oerlikon Neumag’s RoTac³ tangling unit produce even more efficient BCF yarn tangling. On the one hand, the tangling nozzle has been flow - optimized, allowing the air pressure to be lowered by approximately 10 percent compared to its predecessor while maintaining the same knot strength. Furthermore, the nozzle bearing arrangements have been improved. Consequently, either higher speeds or nozzle rings with greater numbers of holes can be used, generating more knots in the yarn.

Even at high production speeds, tangling knots can be set considerably more evenly with the RoTac³ than in the case of other conventional tangling units. Frequent tangling dropouts are now a thing of the past. This ensures better yarn quality and has a positive impact on further processing. The result: the carpet has a visibly more even appearance.

Stable and efficient yarn production is hugely important to yarn manufacturers. Not only does the evenness of the tangling knots make the investment interesting, so too does the energy efficiency of the RoTac³. The tangling unit requires up to 50 percent less energy for generating compressed air. Against the background of rising energy prices, this represents an excellent prerequisite for optimizing production costs.

Oerlikon Neumag has been able to secure various retrofit contracts since the launch of the RoTac³ in 2015. And new systems are predominantly equipped with RoTac³. The RoTac³ is included in the standard scope of delivery for the newer BCF S8 system. The tangling unit is available as an option both for the single-end Sytec One system and the three - end S+ and it can also be retrofitted on request.

A close eye on quality with the Eye Compact II

Eltex of Sweden AB, a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, reports solid success with its Eye Compact II yarn monitoring system for carpet tufting machines, since its launch at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona last June.

The sensor units of the Eye Compact II,Brian Hicks, Eltex CEO explains, have been successfully miniaturised to approximately a third of the size of those with the established Compact system, allowing them to be mounted on the very latest high speed tufting machines that are graphics driven, with limited space at the puller rollers.

Early stage prevention
Unlike the sensor systems that are employed at later positions on tufting machines – in order to detect faults in the formed fabric – Eye Compact II technology is about prevention at an earlier stage, through the detection of missing yarns.

Critically, the sensors need to be installed after the last puller roller and before the tufting needles, because otherwise the roller could still be feeding yarns that will not been successfully taken by the needles. This is only possible with the extremely slim Eye Compact II units, which can also be positioned either above or below the rollers.

Guarantee
Another benefit is that the sensors can be arranged more closely together, with each of them monitoring 16 yarn positions, and their robustness ensures that once fitted, there is little the technicians or operators need to do.

Automatic
The Eye Compact II system easily learns pattern changes and displays the number of yarns involved to the operator for confirmation, and different parameters for different yarns groups can also even be set if required. With its research and development work primarily carried out at its headquarters in Osby, Sweden, and North American sales and service operated from its subsidiary in South Carolina, the manufacturing plant of Eltex has been located at Templemore in Ireland since 1976, providing significant advantages in terms of high flexibility and logistical services to customers on both sides of the Atlantic.

The Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment will be presenting itself at the Egy Stitch & Tex 2020 between March 5 and 8, 2020 in Cairo – with a clear focus on the needs of the African market. In Hall 1, Stand B2 The Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag experts will also be showcasing the comprehensive product and service portfolio of the world market leader for manmade fiber systems at the stand of Oerlikon’s representative ATAG Export & Import.

The spotlight of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment’s trade fair attendance will be on two core technologies: the new generation of Oerlikon Barmag eAFK Evo texturing machines is to be unveiled within the African market for the very first time. It promises higher speeds and productivity with consistently high product quality, along with lower energy consumption and simpler operation vis-à-vis comparable market solutions. In particular, the numerous value-added features include two that convince with cutting-edge technology: the optimized, innovative EvoHeater and the EvoCooler, a completely newly-developed active cooling unit.

The second technology focus offers new opportunities for the Egyptian market and the Middle Eastern markets in particular: with Oerlikon Neumag’s BCF S8 monocolor and tricolor system, the segment will be unveiling its new carpet yarn production flagship. Superlative spinning speeds, up to 700 individual filaments, finer titers of up to 2.5 dpf – the performance data and technological finesse of the new system have already made a huge impression at numerous trade fairs and roadshows over the past year. The tricolor’s core component is the new, patent-pending Color Pop Compacting unit (CPC-T) for even more flexible and more even color separation. With the CPC-T, individually-controllable air pressures for each color provide pre-tangling, which accentuates the colors and hence makes more than 200,000 different shades possible. Whereas it has been very difficult to manufacture strongly color-separated or color-accentuated BCF yarns from polyamide 6 to date, this will in future be possible thanks to the CPC-T system. As a result of the new design, the CPC-T is now also suitable for processes with low yarn tensions.
 
Expanded product offering for manufacturing carpet yarns
Know-how covering all relevant technologies deployed in manmade fiber spinning plants enables Oerlikon – as the world’s only manufacturer – to expand its range of products and services for making carpet yarns. The POY- and texturing-based system concept is designed for a carpet and home textiles segment that demands particularly soft and bulky polyester yarns with BCF-like properties. Here, the aim is to produce yarns with titers of max. 1300dtex and typically more than 1,000 filaments, with typical products including, for example, 1300dtex f1152, 660dtex f1152 and 990dtex f768. The machine concept comprises the well-known WINGS HD POY winder, along with the eAFK Big-V texturing machine.

Oerlikon Neumag promises more flexibility in the color pattern design of carpets with the latest carpet yarn system BCF S8 at DOMOTEX 2020 in Hanover. All trade fair visitors can convince themselves of the possibilities for product differentiation in Hall 11, Stand A36.

Multi-colored carpets are becoming increasingly popular and the desire for significantly more flexible color mixing variants for product differentiation is increasing. Oerlikon Neumag has focused on this and developed the BCF S8, a platform that leaves nothing to be desired when it comes to the color separation of tricolor yarns - from mélange to strongly separated.

Over 200,000 different shades out of three colors
The core component in this process is the new, patent-pending Color Pop Compacting Unit (CPC-T) for an even more flexible and even color separation. Individually controllable air pressures per color in the CPC-T provide a pre-tangling, which results in an accentuation of the colors and thus enables over 200,000 different shades.

Color Pop Compacting also for PA6 yarns
Until now, it was difficult to produce highly color-separated or accentuated BCF yarns from polyamide 6, but in the future, this will be possible thanks to the CPC-T. Thanks to the new design, the CPC-T is now also suitable for processes with low thread tensions.

PIAVE MAITEX, recognized as a preferred partner for the global textile industry, brings on the successful path of responsible and smart innovation and presents its unique line “AGAIN”, during the MarediModa fair in Cannes.

During the Functional Fabric Fair, the trade-exclusive event where the latest trends in fabric development for the functional textile industry are showcased, PIAVE MAITEX presents AGAIN a smart and technically advanced line, that balances performances, functionality and sustainable features, formed of highly performing jerseys. Two premium Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified sustainable ingredients have been involved in the production of AGAIN: the premium stretch fiber ROICA™ EF – part of ROICA Eco-Smart™ Family – constructed out with more than 50% pre-consumer recycled content and perPETual high quality sustainable polyester born from a cost-effective process that reverses engineer consumer waste PET bottles.

In addition to the two key high-tech, responsible and GRS certified raw materials, the Italian manufacturer will present a new development characterized by sustainable water-saving printing, with the possibility to be color-customized. Moreover PIAVE MAITEX will showcase the unique and innovative combination of two AGAIN articles to obtain an entirely sustainable bonded fabric with the possibility of personalized colour combinations. The range of functional fabrics, dyeable and transfer printable, perfectly combines creativity, innovation, real performance and sustainability all at once offering unparalleled comfort, performance, and tenacity.

With the announcement of the eligible vehicle models, the World Car Awards 2020 kickedoff today at the IAA Motor Show in Frankfurt, Germany. This year again, the majority of contenders is equipped with lightweight components for acoustic and thermal management from Autoneum. The world’s leading automobile industry awards will be presented at the New York Motor Show in the spring of 2020.

A total of 46 new vehicle models have passed the initial screening and are now contenders for trophies in the categories “World Car of the Year”, “World Luxury Car”, “World Performance Car”, “World Urban Car” and “World Car Design of the Year”, including five new fully-electric models alone. Whether it’s a lightweight underbody, a noise-absorbing carpet system or a heat-reducing engine encapsulation – most of the eligible vehicles benefit from Autoneum’s innovation leadership in thermal and acoustic management. Autoneum’s expertise extends to new forms of mobility such as electric vehicles: Also thanks to numerous Autoneum components, Jaguar’s fully-electric SUV “I-PACE” impressed the jurors for the World Car Awards 2019, which was the first model ever to be named “World Car of the Year”, “World Car Design of the Year” and “World Green Car” at the same time.

On the occasion of today’s eligibility announcement, Autoneum CEO Martin Hirzel said: “Once again, the contenders are testimony to our innovation leadership. The World Car Awards also confirm our forward-looking approach: Nominated e-models feature Autoneum components as well. Welcoming our industry’s transformation early on, we today supply environmentally sustainable, lightweight components for most electric models available worldwide.”

Gerry Malloy, President of the World Car Awards Association, added: “As a market leader, Autoneum is the ideal partner for us. Our shared commitment to innovation was a decisive factor in forming a partnership back in 2014. Nowadays, this is a crucial aspect for manufacturers and suppliers who wish to remain successful in times of industrial and technological change.”

The World Car Awards, which have been presented annually since 2004, are the world’s leading nd most widely recognized automotive industry awards. A jury comprising of more than 80 international automotive journalists selects winners in five categories. The winners of the 2020 World Car Awards will be announced in April next year at the New York Motor Show.

During the Functional Fabric Fair, the trade-exclusive event where the latest trends in fabric development for the functional textile industry are showcased, PIAVE MAITEX presents AGAIN a smart and technically advanced line, that balances performances, functionality and sustainable features, formed of highly performing jerseys. Two premium Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified sustainable ingredients have been involved in the production of AGAIN: the premium stretch fiber ROICA™ EF – part of ROICA Eco-Smart™ Family – constructed out with more than 50% pre-consumer recycled content and perPETual high quality sustainable polyester born from a cost-effective process that reverses engineer consumer waste PET bottles.