From the Sector

Officina+39, an Italian sustainable chemical developer, attends Superstudio Più in Milan to show its technical progress and share its concrete contribution to a more Trustainable™ denim. Under the spotlight, among multiple innovations, the latest addition to the Officina+39 family: the brand-new NOVASCRAPER INDIGO.

NOVASCRAPER INDIGO, the new technology for classic aesthetics
NOVASCRAPER INDIGO allows to give a natural vintage look to denim garments through laser finishing, an actual innovative alternative to manual scraping. NOVASCRAPER INDIGO guarantees a natural effect with unparalleled quality and accuracy, requiring less manpower and less rejection rate when compared to manual scraping.

The Sixth Sense: less water, more Trustainability
Officina+39 and Tejidos Royo joined forces to create a denim line that drastically reduces water consumption: this is “The Sixth Sense”, a project concretely inspired by the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development and specifically by its SDG6, calling to action to ensure access to water and sanitation for all. Officina+39 personally accepts this global challenge by contributing to the realization of “The Sixth Sense” with its AQUALESS MISSION. Featuring three cutting-edge laundry products for one innovative process, AQUALESS MISSION combines the application of REMOVER BC, AQUALESS AGED – a waterless compound to give denim abrasion effects –, and OZ-ONE POWDER – an advanced product to give garments a bleached yet eco-friendly treatment in a dry application, for a worn and distressed look. Compatible with conventional washing and treatment machinery, it allows for water consumption savings up to 75%.
Focused on driving sustainability in the textile industry, Tejidos Royo uses low-impact fibers and yarns as a raw material and the implementation of foam-dyeing technology with its Dry Indigo®, the first-ever technology to foam-dye denim with zero water use and no water discharge.

CircularKromia: a colorful path for preloved garments
At Officina+39 the word “waste” becomes synonymous with opportunity, a source to create something new, fostering true, Trustainable™ circularity. This is the background to the collaboration with Atelier Riforma, an innovative startup born in Turin (Italy) with a social vocation. Through the contribution of Officina+39’s RECYCROM™, it has been possible to obtain new pigment and dyestuff pulverizing discarded garments and pieces usually difficult to recover through tailoring transformation alone. The collection made it possible not to generate any waste, no new raw materials were required to create CircularKromia.

The Circle Book 2: the power of collaboration and circularity
A collective project gathering a total of ten companies with common goals focused on transparency and circularity in denim design, The Circle Book is now in its second edition that culminated in CULTURE.IN, a circular capsule collection transparently made from recycled and degradable materials.

Officina+39 opens its doors, with Lenzing and Meidea
In the evening of October 13, the recently inaugurated brand-new headquarters of Officina+39 in Biella opened their doors to welcome denim personalities, brands, designers and partners to show where Officina+39's innovative technologies are created, to network and celebrate while preparing new steps towards the design of a more circular and – of course – Trustainable™ fashion Industry.

• From C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021 to Special Project at WHITE Milan, the streetstyle Portuguese brand shows urban outfits for everyday heroes fighting for the environment, with a holistic approach to sustainability

After being rewarded with the 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award, the Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to present its Spring/Summer 2022 collection developed with C.L.A.S.S. ecohub support. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte has worked in close contact with the Milanese hub in order to create a 40 pieces collection where the approach to materials, suppliers, new business models and communication could include and support a holistic view of the sustainable values aligned with style, performances, look and touch and Duarte identity.

The inspiration behind the collection is the superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog, an English Cocker Spaniel - which is the World Keeper fighting against the environmental issues mankind has generated. Like a protector of sustainability, it battles modern monsters as Smog Man, Fire Man, Deforestation Man and Wave man, who respectively represent the issues of air pollution, climate change, forest destruction and water overconsumption. A very simple, direct and engaging way of talking about hot topics and simple, direct solutions.

The collection is made of 20 outfits, mainly unisex apart from some of them typically feminine as the crop tops. Hints of bright red and mustard yellow are alternated with denim, grey and pale azure tones, blending in with the colorful prints. Accents of black - used in inserts or as piping - seem to emphasize the outline of the garments. The different textures of the materials create a sense of movement, further enhanced by the unique patterns. All the garments’ prints are exclusively designed by the designer, following each collection inspiration: this time, they recall urban landscapes and the appeal of big metropolis, with Tadao as protagonist in prints, patches and ankle socks.

Among the most representative Duarte outfits we find:

• A matching sweater with trousers made of Newlife™, a yarn 100% made In Italy coming only from post- consumer, traceable plastic bottles.
• A unisex oversized bomber is crafted from Newlife™, lined with precious 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami and matched with printed neoprene hoodie and shorts.
• Long-panelled unisex coat and trousers made with ReLAST® denim by Candiani, a responsible textile featuring a premium recycled stretch yarn, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei. The coat is lined with a fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami in 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter.
• The same sustainable stretch yarn is implied in the responsible tulle by Iluna Group, and featured in a shorts and top women’s ensemble, paired with a neoprene printed bomber. The tulle is skillfully matched with 100% Tencel™ back in the loop fabric by Maeba International underneath it.

Ana Duarte is part of a new generation of designers with a new approach to sourcing and production: her research goes into different kind of business models to fit her responsible innovation and style needs at the same time. That’s why in her collection we can find amazing and unique combination of organic, recycled, Back in The Loop, innovative materials that are the right choice for the look&touch and the performance she’s looking for. The result is cool yet respecting people and the environment in full traceability thanks to certified and sometimes even circular solutions. Working with components from various sources and business models requires a certain expertise and a particular sensibility we find in Ana Duarte’s design solutions and in her responsible interpretation of streetwear.

• Hightech textiles for future-oriented construction projects

Building shells, bridges, staircases, façades ... construction projects are exposed to enormous mechanical loads. Often there are also considerable climatic or environmental influences. This has prompted the increasing use of fibre-reinforced materials in construction projects. After all, besides many other exciting properties, they offer high mechanical rigidity, low weight and excellent corrosion resistance.

Tapes, tubulars, sections and 3D woven textiles by vombaur form the perfect basis for these innovative building materials. The seamless round or shaped woven narrow textiles made of high-performance fibres are extremely loadable because they have neither seams nor welds – and therefore no undesirable breaking points. Their surface properties are identical over the entire length. In challenging tasks, composite textiles by vombaur offer a lightweight solution that is as reliable as it is durable.

Safe and durable solutions for challenging applications
The potential applications for lightweight components in the construction industry are as numerous as the project ideas of the planning and construction teams.
•    Ropes and tensioning elements made of carbon fibre reinforced plastic (CFRP)
•    Reinforcement of building structures made of concrete, steel, wood or other materials
•    Sustainable restructuring of constructions and urban districts for bridges and buildings
•    CFC slats as reinforcements in case of repairs
•    (Filled) GRP pipes made of seamless round woven tubes by vombaur as columns/pillars
•    CFRP sections as steel girder substitutes
•    Hollow profiles with individually designed cross-sections
•    Glass fibre reinforced connecting elements for glazing to minimise expansion differences between the connecting element and the glass
•    Individual light wells

Implementing visions – with composite textiles by vombaur
As your development partner, vombaur facilitates innovative composites projects for challenging applications. In innovative and safety-sensitive industries such as automotive and aviation, chemical and plant engineering.  The composites experts at vombaur develop, create samples of and manufacture woven tapes and seamless round or shaped woven textiles by vombaur – in collaboration with the customer's enterprise development teams and individually for the respective projects. This is how novel and unique lightweight components made of high-performance textiles are created for visionary lightweight construction projects.

"Fibre-reinforced composites are the ideal material for future-oriented construction projects," explains Dr.-Ing. Sven Schöfer, Head of Development and Innovation at vombaur. "Their outstanding technical properties and design possibilities open up new and fascinating perspectives for construction projects. From building construction to civil engineering, from bridge construction to interior design. As an experienced development partner for sophisticated lightweight components, we at vombaur contribute our seamless solutions to these kinds of future-oriented projects."

DyStar is pleased to announce the release of its eleventh annual Sustainability Performance Report. The report is written in accordance with the GRI Standards: Core option, while using the Integrated Reporting <IR> framework to communicate how DyStar drives value creation across multiple stakeholder groups in six capital categories, namely financial, manufactured, intellectual, natural, human capital and social capital.

In FY2020, COVID-19 has continued to present its challenges, such as the shortage of raw materials and rising freight costs. Gloomy global demand has also resulted in some raw and product material wastage in production plants worldwide, leading to increased non-hazardous waste output for FY2020. DyStar recognizes these global factors in play and will continue to make active efforts within the organization’s capability to reduce its environmental footprint in the years ahead.

The Group has set its sight on achieving the 2025 sustainability target of reducing its production footprint by 30% from 2011 levels for every ton of production. “We will continue to innovate and develop a wide range of products and processes that improve environmental performance and reduce carbon footprint across our value chain”, said Mr Xu Yalin, Executive Board Director of DyStar Group.

Mr Eric Hopmann, CEO of DyStar Group added: “We are also developing various projects in anticipation of future demands from customers as well as adopting more environmentally friendly technologies and improve our workflows and processes. Some of our projects include traceability programs, adopting renewable energy technologies, and digitalizing our business processes.” Understanding the importance of collaborative efforts to drive sustainability across the value chain, DyStar seeks to continually support industrial innovations and develop strategic partnerships to work towards becoming a sustainable and trusted leader in the industry.

European Textiles and Clothing (T&C) industry coming out of the Covid19-crisis, but facing new challenges ahead. This recovery may however be disrupted by the current supply chain and energy problems. Latest economic data on the European T&C industry confirm further recovery from the corona pandemic. The textile activity has now surpassed its pre-pandemic level from Q4 2019 (+3.6%); the clothing sector still remains 11.5% below, but continues to improve.

In quarter-on-quarter terms, the EU turnover showed signs of improvements across the sector. The textile turnover increased by +3.3% in Q2 2021, after slightly contracting in Q1 2021. Similarly, the business activity in the clothing sector expanded by +7% in Q2 2021, after increasing by +1% in the previous quarter.
 
In the 2nd quarter 2021, the EU-27 trade balance for T&C improved, resulting mostly from an increase of export sales across third markets and a drop of textile imports. T&C Extra-EU exports boomed by +49% as compared with the same quarter of the previous year. T&C Extra-EU imports went down by -26% as compared with the same quarter of the previous year, following a decrease of imports from some main supplier countries. EU imports from China and the UK collapsed due to a combination of Brexit and weaker demand in Europe.
 
During the second quarter of 2021, job creation was slowly stabilising in the textile industry (-0.2% q-o-q), while employment in the clothing sector continued to be affected by lower levels of production activity in industry during the first part of the year (-1.2%). When compared to its pre-pandemic level in Q4 2019, EU employment in Q2 2021 was still 4.4% down in textiles and 11.8% down in clothing.

However, this fragile recovery is hampered by higher shipping costs and prices’ increase in raw materials and energy. The cost of energy, in particular gas, has increased more than 3 times since the beginning of this year. Since the announcement of the EU’s “Fit for 55” package, we have seen CO2 prices rising above €60. This inevitably has an impact on the industry’s competitiveness, especially in a global context. The future recovery is also threatened by some factors limiting production, such as shortage of labour force and equipment, which are putting additional pressure on T&C industries.

Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented on these latest figures: “Our companies have shown great resilience during the pandemic, and their latest export performance is an encouraging sign of recovery. This recovery may however be disrupted by the current supply chain and energy problems. Once again, recent developments show that this transition towards more sustainable production can only work if organised in a global context, avoiding carbon leakage and with an effective level playing field. This must be considered in the upcoming EU Textiles Strategy.”

With PicConnect, a new fully digital platform, Picanol is offering a wide range of features, from industrial IoT to service-related applications. PicConnect is a web-based application that can be accessed through a web browser on any device and it functions as the gateway to all Picanol’s digital services. The platform is cloud-based and it allows connecting the Picanol weaving machines to the platform in order to leverage its full extent of possibilities.

“PicConnect enables weavers to quickly react to changes in the weaving room, and it will have an immediate impact on the performance of the weaving machines. It will not only change how weavers interact with their machines but also the way they interact with Picanol. For this reason, Picanol can boldly state that PicConnect is bringing weavers into the era of intuitive weaving,” comments Johan Verstraete, Vice President Weaving Machines.

The first four applications that will be launched as part of PicConnect are: production monitoring, energy monitoring, style administration, and PartsLine, which is Picanol’s new online webshop.

• HIGHER, FASTER, FURTHER ! During the first physical Frankfurt Fashion Week in January 2022, PREMIUM GROUP will show more novelties than ever.

The anticipation is rising! With the actual move to Frankfurt in January 2022, Anita Tillmann, Jörg Arntz and the teams will not only present further developed versions of the PREMIUM and SEEK fashion fairs, but will also celebrate a major B2C festival for the first time with THE GROUND.

More than ever, the Berliners‘ passion for people and fashion, but also for business and trading, is at the heart of all their events. And where better to combine all this than in the power metropolis of Frankfurt am Main.

„No city in Germany - no city in Europe - stands for business relevance and trading power as much as Frankfurt am Main,“ explains Tillmann. „We now have a unique opportunity to actively shape the future together. PREMIUM GROUP provides the industry with the platform, the brands with the creative content. In addition, we do what we do best, introduce the right players to each other and connect them. We bring together the movers and shakers who have the same drive as we do. With this new mix of location, entertainment, creative industry and trading focus, we are creating a unique momentum after the pandemic - January is when the big deals are made and the c ourse is set for the future.“

To achieve this goal, the PREMIUM GROUP teams have also given the proven successful formats PREMIUM and SEEK a new coat of paint. More space, new areas and shorter distances provide visitors with a completely new trade event experience. Trends, brands and events can be discovered together with new and well-known partners - for the first time all in one place!

And PREMIUM, which is already entering its 19th year in January, is also showing a new side in Frankfurt. Instead of being spread out like in Station-Berlin, in Frankfurt all brands show their collections in one big hall. „We are so excited to finally unite all exhibitors in one hall. This way we create a universe with many different worlds - colorful and exciting,“ says Wiebus. „We are in close exchange with all the protagonists throughout the year and continue to develop the concepts together. The entire industry is positive about coming together in Frankfurt. Everyone is keen to experience and create something completely new! We offer the framework for this - that is our strength.“

And the Berliners have another surprise in store for the Frankfurt debut: With THE GROUND, they are organizing a large fashion festival for young end consumers for the first time. Responsible for the event concept, in addition to Tillmann, Arntz and the PREMIUM GROUP- team, is B2C expert Kai Zollhöfer, who already made the Bread & Butter by Zalando a crowd puller. “THE GROUND is a B2C festival aimed at a young, purpose-driven generation. This new generation has a strong stance on current social and environmental challenges and expects brands to reflect them. The overriding themes at THE GROUND are therefore sustainability, diversity and equality”, said Zollhöfer.

The 3-day event offers brands the opportunity to interactively exhibit purpose-driven stories and products. In addition to the thematic focus on fashion, brands from the fields of wellbeing, beauty, mobility and technology will also present innovative products and solutions.

Archroma celebrates 8 years of leading the way to a sustainable world, with innovations and solutions aimed at creating added value sustainable for its partners, consumers and the planet.

Archroma came to life on 1st October 2013 from textile, paper and emulsions businesses acquired from Clariant by SK Capital Partners.
Building on decades of commitment to developing safer eco-friendlier chemistry, Archroma has become in the past 8 years a prominent name for more sustainable colors and performance, collaborating with leading brands such as Primark, G-Star, Patagonia, Esprit and more.

Archroma has introduced innovations, such as the EarthColors® made from non-edible plant waste from the food and herbal industry, Denisol® Pure, an indigo for aniline-free* denim, aniline being a category 2 carcinogen substance, and Smartrepel®, a PFC-free* water repellent solution. The company is also about to launch a new plant-based softener.

The company started to develop holistic solutions designed to bring innovation and performance, whilst reducing the impacts on water, energy and other natural resources. The savings generated by these 70+ system solutions are demonstrated by Archroma's proprietary ONE WAY Impact Calculator, a tool launched in 2012 and continuously upgraded to simulate and optimize the footprint of application processes.

Archroma also recently launched CASUAL X SMART, a sulfur dyeing system for trendy wash-down effects to make clothes that look smart at home and at work. The colors won't fade in the washing cycle, and the application process allows resource savings of up to 33% water, 21% energy and 35% chemical usage compared to a benchmark reactive & pigment garment dyeing.

With ONE WAY, a brand can calculate how much impact their current production and the Archroma Way collection will have on water, energy, chemical, raw material or CO2 footprint.

The rescheduled Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles, now taking place from 9 – 11 October, will once again provide the industry with insight into the future through its fringe programme’s four categories: Design Inspiration, Business O2O, Textiles & Technologies and Industry Empowerment. And with the Online Business Matching sourcing platform returning this edition, buyers worldwide can still participate in the fair.

Each of the fringe programme’s four categories – Design Inspiration, Business O2O (online to offline), Textiles & Technologies and Industry Empowerment – features a mix of conferences, seminars and presentations that reflect the future of the home textile industry. Highlights of each category are included below, while further details can be found on the fair’s website: https://intertextile-shanghai-hometextiles-autumn.hk.messefrankfurt.com/shanghai/en/programme-events.html.

Since 2019, Messe Frankfurt has been working with the Conscious Fashion Campaign and United Nations Office for Partnerships as part of the Texpertise Network and supports the UN Sustainable Development Goals. The goals will be presented gradually at global textile events in order to highlight the most pressing challenges facing the textile and fashion industry worldwide.

Industry Empowerment: antimicrobial technologies and licensing in the home textile sector

Growing awareness of health and hygiene has increased the demand for antimicrobial and other functional textiles. Seminars hosted by the Chinese Industry Association for Antimicrobial Materials & Products will further discuss the increasing prominence of these textiles, as well as how the adoption of new antimicrobial textile technologies is expected to evolve in the future. In addition, experts will share the new trends of licensing and IP with case studies for the furniture companies and fabric brands.

2022 China Home Textile Trends

The China Home Textiles Trend Area will feature the research of the China Home Textile Association, The Department of Home Textile Trend Research and Promotion and Concept & Style Fashion Project Group Italy who shared their knowledge, inspirations and exchanged their visions of trend evolutions considering consumer demand, retail expertise, the contract market and new technologies.

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Autumn Edition 2021 will be held concurrently with Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition, Yarn Expo Autumn, PH Value and CHIC at the National Exhibition and Convention Center. Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Autumn Edition is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA).

Hexcel has collaborated with HP Composites S.p.A (HP Composites), a world leader in the production of carbon fiber components for automotive and motorsports, to develop carbon fiber Class A body panels. Hexcel HexPly® XF surfacing technology is being extensively used by the Italian component producer to manufacture external body panels and other components for supercars such as Alfa Romeo’s stunning new supersport sedans, the Giulia GTA, and GTAm.

With five production plants in Italy, HP Composites has built an impressive track record of high-performance composite successes on both road and racetrack. HP has combined this processing expertise with Hexcel HexPly® XF3 surfacing material, HexPly® M47, and HexPly® M49 prepregs, working to the highest standards set by the most prestigious supercar OEMs and leading motorsport teams.

Hexcel’s automotive composites portfolio is the result of decades of industry experience and the creation of strategic partnerships to develop and optimize leading-edge technologies. HexPly XF3 is an epoxy prepreg surface material, developed with processing input from the HP Composites team to address the challenges of producing high-quality Class A automotive body panel surfaces with excellent resistance to aging tests.

Applied as the first ply in the mold and after curing at 120-180˚C in an autoclave, HexPly XF3 produces a smooth part surface with no porosity, that requires minimal preparation for painting.

HexPly XF3 is supplied in an easy-to-handle roll format with good tack and drapability. After curing, it can be easily prepared for painting with a rapid sanding process. HP Composites has incorporated automated robotic sanding techniques for this finishing stage with the paint-ready HexPly XF3 surface providing excellent paint adhesion according to EN ISO 2409.

HP Composites typically uses autoclave processing for HexPly XF3 parts, maximizing weight savings and structural performance of the final components. In addition, HP has also developed its own proprietary press and compression molding processes, including Air Press Moulding® technology, compatible with HexPly XF3 and other HexPly prepregs for higher volume production series that require increased production rates.

“Our long-term experience has given us a detailed understanding of the critical features that influence how prepregs and surfacing technologies interact with different production processes,” said Abramo Levato, General Manager, HP Composites S.p.A. “The relationship we have with Hexcel is both highly technical and highly supportive. As a result we have a complete material package for high-quality Class A body panels that are formulated specifically with our requirements in mind.”

“Combining the expertise of HP with a strong technical interaction and collaborative dialogue, Hexcel and HP were together able to develop the optimum HexPly XF surfacing technology,” said Claude Despierres, VP Sales and Marketing, Hexcel. “With HexPly XF3 we satisfy the toughest industry standards.”