From the Sector

Retailers invest in emotionalisation and digitalisation +++ Top theme: linking online with offline shopping +++ Focus on sustainability +++ Accompanying Stages and Specials received very well

The World’s No.1 Retail Trade Fair, EuroShop 2020, drew to a close on Thursday (20 February 2020) after five successful days in Düsseldorf: 2,300 exhibitors from 57 nations reported of very good leads and concluded business deals. Furthermore, lively follow-up business is expected. 94,000 visitors travelled to the Rhine to gather information on the line-up of products, trends and concepts for retailers and their partners featured in 16 exhibition halls.  

“We are delighted that EuroShop once again successfully proved to be the most relevant platform for the global retail community when it comes to trends, inspirations and networking. Our exhibitors deserve the highest praise for their loyalty. With their innovative power they again proved the major attraction for an entire industry,” said Erhard Wienkamp, Managing Director at Messe Düsseldorf, voicing his great satisfaction with EuroShop 2020 results.

Exhibitors especially applauded the high international attendance at EuroShop. 70% of the EuroShop audience travelled to Düsseldorf from abroad. Large delegations came for example from Brazil, Australia and New Zealand. Trade visitors from a total of 142 countries attended EuroShop 2020.

“This high level of international interest clearly documents the dynamism of the global retail world and the exceptional position EuroShop enjoys as its economic engine,” said Michael Gerling, Chairman of the EuroShop Advisory Board and CEO of the EHI Retail Institute Cologne.

“The success of eCommerce is a real encouragement for retailers: they have understood they have to give their shoppers good reasons beyond the ranges to enter their stores. This competition has taken retail as a whole to the next quality level. Investment is being made in shop fitting so as to create customer journeys,” explains Gerling who adds: “Beyond this, retail digitalisation is booming. It enables retailers to offer their shoppers even more services and link online and offline channels, on the one hand, while simplifying process flows, logistics and lots more, on the other.” At EuroShop 2020 digital transformation was therefore a key focus, also in terms of achieving the highest energy efficiency and sustainability possible.

Exhibitors underlined the high level of expertise among visitors at the event, especially their pronounced decision-making powers, because 70% of the trade fair guests were in international top management. Many of them also used their visit to EuroShop to learn about best practice cases and forward-looking trends in retail at the in total eight Stages. The varied programme of lectures held on the individual Stages on such topics as Retail Technology, Architecture and Store Design or Expo & Event was well attended across the board. Meeting with the same high level of approval were the numerous Specials at EuroShop, including the Start-up Hub, the Designer Village and Premium City.

Numbers speak for themselves here: 96% of trade fair visitors were satisfied with their visit to the trade fair. Just as many confirmed the outstanding position of EuroShop as a trend barometer, networking platform and largest event for the retail sectors.

Due to the current situation associated with the Coronavirus 19.000 visitors less attended this time than at the record event 2017.

The next EuroShop will be held in Düsseldorf from 26 February to 2 March 2023.  

     Experienced people-centric leader to strengthen product and service capabilities

The leadership team of Baldwin Technology Company Inc. has appointed Joe Kline as its new President and CEO, effective January 17, 2020. Baldwin is a leading global manufacturer of innovative process-automation technology for the printing, packaging and converting industries. Acting CEO Kyle Chapman will continue as Baldwin’s Chairman, and devote greater focus to BW Forsyth Partners’ rapidly expanding portfolio. In 2012, Forsyth acquired thenpublic Baldwin and took it private.

Prior to joining Baldwin, Kline served as the president of a division in Eaton’s electrical sector. In addition, his previous experience includes commercial leadership roles at Eaton, Duke Manufacturing and Emerson. He holds a bachelor’s degree in electrical engineering from Ohio University and a Master of Business Administration in international business from Saint Louis University.

Kline’s appointment follows the 2019 appointments of four Baldwin business segment presidents: Rich Bennett at AMS Spectral UV, Tomas Anderbjer at Baldwin Precision Applications, Vince Balistrieri at Baldwin Vision Systems, and Matt Shishikura at Baldwin Japan.

The integrated sustainable network making fashion circular, Made in Italy and 100% traceable

World leading textile manufacturer Manteco presents its sustainable path for a better future: The Manteco System. A strategy and a vision shaping the company’s sustainable imprint since 1943. The system consists in the development and engineering of a production network involving 100 partner-companies from the whole supply chain “We all team up responsibly to create premium collection based on transparent , traceable  circular economy practices,” comments Matteo Mantellassi, co-CEO of Manteco.
 
To achieve meeting the demand for fair and sustainable fashion that consumers believe in, and is expected  from our clients, the company and its partners have created and accomplished to a Protocol of Sustainable Values and Commitments in line with the highest standards of the global market.

“On a hand, the protocol preserves the unique ‘genius loci’ of our territory – it respects the heritage of all our partners, from the smaller businesses to the more structured ones - on the other hand, it works like a shared compass of sustainable values, allowing the whole supply chain behind Manteco products to stand out and be competitive on the global stage” adds Mantellassi.
 
The protocol and its monitored and traceable system cover virtuous management of resources – e.g. Water, energy and chemical products - waste management and low production impact on the environment but also responsible standards in terms of employment, quality of the working environment, equal rights and anti-discrimination policies.

One of the key  results of such commitment and sustainable development is the creation of an upgraded version of the recycled wool  MWool™: a top ingredient made from premium recycled wool process guaranteed by the Manteco System.The System works like a symphony where management, measurement and controls  are not there just to test  the quality of each single phase of processes or  products , but to make sure and offer the complete traceability of Manteco production.  From raw material, to yarn, spinning, finishing, testing and final fabric.

Some productions tips about Manteco:

•  5.3 million kg of raw materials processed annually.
•  6.860 tests on raw material per year.
•  34.400 tests on finished products.
•  100% made in Italy system completely based in the Prato district since 1943.
•  Total transparency and traceability thanks to a highly skilled management system.

With a turnover of over 91m Euro in 2019 and an annual growth of 17,80% since 2012, Manteco SpA is the 4th textile company in Italy, listed in the TOP30 companies of the Italian fashion system. “The unique Manteco system adds value to our products while highlighting the sustainable path we share with all our partners both upstream and downstream”.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) issued a statement today on the Trump administration’s announced action plan to increase enforcement and penalties against counterfeit goods sold online and imported to the U.S.

“This is a very important and long overdue move on the part of the administration to increase enforcement activity and penalties against counterfeit goods sold online and imported into the United States,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “We commend the administration for making a commitment to bolster efforts to crack down on counterfeits, particularly in the textile and apparel sector, which has been hit hard by fake imported products for decades.”

Nearly two million shipments of goods are exported to the United States duty free each day-- often from countries with poor labor, human rights and environmental track records—under a provision known as Section 321 de minimis. This provision allows goods valued below an $800 threshold to enter the U.S. duty free when imported directly to an individual on a single day.  

“This massive increase in de minimis shipment trade poses significant security risks and threats to public health and safety, while incentivizing customs fraud and creating a loophole to our entire tariff structure,” Glas said. “Our concerns regarding the de minimis loophole are exacerbated by the belief that the domestic textile industry and other U.S. manufacturing interests are directly and negatively impacted, particularly since e-commerce sites like Amazon and others are using de minimis as a duty-free portal into the U.S. for products under $800.”

Furthermore, CBP’s own annual report on intellectual property seizures, including large volumes of counterfeits, revealed that U.S. authorities made seizures totaling $1.4 billion in fiscal 2018. Over 90 percent of all intellectual property (IPR) seizures occur in the international mail and express shipment environments, according to the report, which is a common method of shipping by e-commerce sites.

Chinese products accounted for 46% of all IPR seizures with a total Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) value of $761.1 million in FY 2018. Apparel and accessories were the top counterfeit products seized by U.S. authorities, accounting for 18% of all seizures in FY 2018 with an MRSP value of $115.2 million.

“We think this is an important step forward by the administration to deepen the analysis on de minimis products--- that are often not thoroughly examined and undercut our domestic manufacturing industries,” Glas said. “We don’t know what the products are, where they are coming from, whether they meet U.S. safety requirements, who is making them or the country of origin. We believe it is long past time for the administration to address the issue of de minimis shipments and counterfeiting head on.”

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) lauded Senate passage today of the U.S.-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA).

“We are pleased the Senate voted swiftly to approve USMCA--a trade deal that we expect to significantly bolster textile exports to Mexico and the Western Hemisphere,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas.

Mexico and Canada are the two largest export markets for the U.S. textile and apparel industry, totaling nearly $11.5 billion for the year ending Nov. 30, 2019, according to government data.

“USMCA is a win for the textile industry,” Glas said. “The improvements it makes to the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) will only serve to generate more business for domestic producers and create more jobs and investment in the U.S.”
NCTO worked with the administration during negotiations on USMCA and secured several provisions in the trade deal including stronger rules of origin for certain textile inputs and increased U.S. customs enforcement.

U.S. textile executives are ramping up to take advantage of the modifications in USMCA and some plan to build new business or expand existing business in areas such as pocketing, sewing thread and narrow elastics.

“Our member companies, making some of the most advanced textiles in the world, have long supported USMCA and are eagerly awaiting implementation of the trade deal,” Glas added. “We urge quick implementation of USMCA and thank the administration and Congress for their hard work to get the deal across the finish line.”

The USMCA updates and modifies the NAFTA and makes significant improvements, including:

• Creation of a separate chapter for textiles and apparel rules of origin with strong customs enforcement language.
• Stronger rules of origin for sewing thread, pocketing, narrow elastics and certain coated fabrics.  Under the current NAFTA, these items can be sourced from outside the region – USMCA modernizes this loophole and ensures these secondary components are originating to the region.
• Fixes the Kissell Amendment Buy American loophole, ensuring that a significant amount the Department of Homeland Security spends annually on clothing and textiles for the Transportation Security Administration is spent on domestically produced products.

Electronics For Imaging, Inc. has named veteran print technology executive Dr. Douglas Edwards as its Chief Technology Officer (CTO). Edwards replaces longtime technology leader Ghilad Dziesietnik, who recently retired after nearly 25 years with EFI - the last 14 as CTO. Edwards, who assumes his new duties today, has had an extensive career as a senior print executive and R&D technologist. Immediately prior to this appointment, Edwards was CEO of Cambridge, England-based Xaar plc, a leading developer of inkjet print head technologies for industrial printing, and Chairman of Xaar 3D Ltd - the company's 3D printing joint venture with Stratasys Ltd.

“Hot Button Report”, the Canadian non-profit organization Canopy particularly highlights the innovative strength of the Lenzing Group, its active contribution to forest conservation and high level of transparency.

In the “Hot Button Report” issued by the Canadian non-profit organization Canopy, the Lenzing Group was once again rated number one in the world, thus confirming its role as the sustainability trailblazer in the textile industry. In this widely recognized ranking, Canopy grades the world’s 32 largest producers of wood-based fibers with respect to their success in achieving sustainable wood and pulp sourcing. Wood and the pulp derived from it are the most important raw materials underlying Lenzing’s sustainable production of cellulosic fibers.

“We are extremely proud of this top ranking. It underlines our leading position as a sustainability trailblazer in the manufacturing sector and in the fiber industry in particular. It gives our customers the confidence that we have created the right structures to prevent the sourcing and use of wood from ancient and endangered forests”, says Stefan Doboczky, CEO of the Lenzing Group. “Environmental protection and the prudent use of resources are an integral part of our responsibility to nature and society”, he adds.

Lenzing primarily convinced the non-profit organization Canopy this year thanks to its innovative strength used to promote the circular economy in the textile industry, its active contribution towards protecting the forests and preserving biodiversity as well as its high level of transparency in pulp sourcing.

Lenzing received a total of 26.5 points (up 3.5 points from the previous year) and was thus given the “light to mid green shirt” rating. This means that in using the wood-based cellulosic fibers produced by the Lenzing Group, there is only a very minimal danger that wood is derived from primeval forests and endangered forest areas. In the Wood and Pulp Policy published by Lenzing, the company confirms that it only sources wood and pulp from non-controversial sources.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber though finished sewn products, provides initial comments on the Phase One deal on 301 tariffs reached between the United States and China today.

“We look forward to reviewing the details of the agreement as it becomes available, including the intellectual property enforcement mechanisms agreed to by both countries.  We have long supported the administration’s efforts to re-balance our trade relationship with China that has significantly eroded our U.S. manufacturing base for decades,” Kim Glas, President and CEO of the National Council of Textile Organizations said.

The proposed announcement means that 301 duties on textile inputs will remain at a 25 percent tariff. Meanwhile, penalty duties on finished apparel and textile products implemented on Sept. 1st will be reduced from 15 percent to 7.5 percent, and proposed duties on finished products set to be put in place on Dec. 15th will no longer go into effect.

“NCTO has strongly supported applying tariffs on finished products as key negotiating leverage since textile and apparel production is a key pillar of the Chinese manufacturing economy.  Finished apparel, home furnishings and other made-up textile goods equate to 93.5 percent of U.S imports from China in our sector, while fiber, yarn and fabric imports from China only represents 6.5 percent, according to government data.  Today’s announcement reduces tariffs on finished products at the same time it keeps tariffs in place on key inputs that aren’t made in the U.S. such as certain dyes, chemicals, and textile machinery. We believe a wiser approach would be to maintain penalty duties on finished Chinese products while reducing 301 duties on key inputs that are used by U.S. manufacturers. Doing so will maintain maximum leverage on China to reach a more comprehensive and enforceable intellectual property agreement, while reducing input costs for U.S. manufacturers.  As domestic textile companies fight to compete with China and their illegal trade practices, it is important that U.S. manufacturers should be the first to see penalty duties removed on inputs not made in the United States.

As we review this Phase One agreement, it is important that the administration strike the proper balance of maintaining its leverage with China by keeping duties on finished product until a final strong and enforceable deal with China is completed.  We look forward to reviewing and analyzing the deal in more detail.”

Myant Inc. and Osmotex AG have agreed to enter into a joint venture for the commercialization of Osmotex’s HYDRO_BOT active membrane technology across various textile-based applications. The integration of HYDRO_BOT with Myant’s existing portfolio of textile-based sensing and actuating capabilities opens up new possibilities across a wide range of domains including sweat/moisture management and thermal regulation.

HYDRO_BOT technology is capable of moving 200 liters of fluid across a square meter of textile every hour via an electroosmotic process, providing a practically limitless ability to manage moisture in textile applications. Applied in conjunction with Myant’s existing capability to deliver heat via textile and to achieve effective passive moisture wicking via novel knitted structures, the combination of technologies is poised to dramatically improve the ability to regulate body temperature in applications such as personal protective equipment for workers in heavy industry, protective gear for workers in hot desert-like climates, performance wear like snow suits or skiing apparel in cold climates, footwear, motorcycling apparel, and more. In addition to apparel, significant market opportunities exist in the moisture management as applied to the automotive industry and in the healthcare industry.

“The creation of this joint venture between Myant and Osmotex reinforces our mission to develop textiles as bidirectional interfaces to the human body capable of optimizing health and performance across all spheres of life,” said Tony Chahine, founder and CEO of Myant. “Our team is excited to begin integrating HYDRO_BOT into our textiles and bringing this transformative technology to market.”

“We are excited to be working together with Myant to realize the full potential of the HYDRO_BOT technology,” said Joacim Holter, Managing Director and Chairman of the Board for Osmotex AG. “Myant’s ability to integrate our technology and to produce at scale all under one roof made them an ideal partner to help make our vision a reality.”

• Acquisition drives market growth
• Additional sales channel for BASF customers and partners
• Access to new materials and technologies for customers of BASF and Sculpteo

To continue to expand its position as a leading service provider in the additive manufacturing sector, BASF New Business GmbH has formally agreed to acquire the online 3D printing service provider Sculpteo. The agreement was signed on November 14, 2019 and is expected to become effective in the next few weeks pending regulatory approval by the relevant authorities. The acquisition of the French 3D printing specialist based in Paris and San Francisco will enable BASF 3D Printing Solutions GmbH, a wholly-owned subsidiary of BASF New Business GmbH, to market and establish new industrial 3D printing materials more quickly. Sculpteo’s management team fully supports the acquisition and will remain in place to provide customers and partners with this expanded service spectrum.

For around a decade already, Sculpteo has operated an online platform with integrated production for the manufacturing of prototypes, individual objects, and serial production components with a range of different additive manufacturing technologies. Customers in various industrial sectors around the world use the Sculpteo service to produce new components rapidly and reliably.

BASF will develop the existing Sculpteo 3D printing platform further into a global network. For customers and partners, BASF 3D Printing Solutions will thus be able to offer an additional channel for marketing their services and expanding their own customer bases.

"Through the acquisition of Sculpteo, we can provide customers and partners with even faster access to our innovative 3D printing solutions. In addition, our customers will benefit from an extended range of services”, explains Dr. Dietmar Bender, Managing Director BASF 3D Printing Solutions. “Together with Sculpteo, we are pursuing our goal of establishing additive manufacturing as a proven technology for industrial mass production", says Bender.

Combining the strengths of both companies will provide Sculpteo's existing customers with access to a more extensive portfolio of 3D printing materials. "We are excited to join the BASF team and thus benefit from BASF’s outstanding R&D to provide our customers with innovative solutions”, says Clément Moreau, CEO and Co-Founder of Sculpteo. Moreau will stay with Sculpteo as CEO.

Beyond this, the Sculpteo Design Studio and BASF’s technical experts will collaborate to be able to support customers in their 3D printing projects from the early planning phase right through to the final printed part. This will enable BASF to offer its customers end-to-end industrial 3D printing solutions.