From the Sector

In the fourth quarter of 2023 Italian textile machinery orders index, drawn up by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, appears to be stationary compared to data recorded for the same period in 2022. In terms of absolute value, the index stood at 82.4 points (basis: 2015=100).

This is the result of an upswing in orders from foreign markets, counterbalanced by declining orders on the domestic front. While orders in Italy decreased at 18% rate, a 4% increase was observed abroad. The absolute value of the index on foreign markets amounted to 77.9 points, whereas it came in at 126.2 points domestically. Overall for the fourth quarter, the average order backlog yielded 3.7 months of assured production.

For the whole 2023 year, the index declined 25% overall compared to the 2022 average (absolute index of 82.4). On the home front however, the index dropped 24% (absolute index of 124.5), while slipping 25% abroad (absolute index of 78.4).
 
ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè commented: "The orders index for October – December 2023, as elaborated by our Economics Department, confirms an intake of orders that is still weak, with a negative trend in demand for machinery that is ongoing for the domestic market."

Nonetheless, the orders index abroad shows a slight increase. We estimate that the global geopolitical context is still a source of concern,” continued Salvadè, specifying that, “For the first nine months of 2023, Italian exports on major global markets (i.e. China, Turkey, India and the United States of America), confirm a widespread decline. However, some positive signs emerged in the fourth quarter of last year, as reflected by the latest orders index. For 2024 we expect a consolidation of this trend reversal."

INDA announces Sustainability as a primary focus for 2024. This strategic initiative, backed by resounding support from INDA’s leadership, is a direct response to feedback from association members affirming that sustainability remains one of the nonwovens industry’s highest priorities.

INDA’s sustainability endeavor will center around three core pillars crucial to the industry’s future: Responsible Sourcing, End-of-Life Solutions, and Innovations in Sustainability. This multifaceted initiative will introduce a spectrum of new and enhanced offerings, including:

• Webinars addressing sustainability issues impacting members and the industry.
• Specialized technical and government affairs committees enabling members to collaborate on sustainability opportunities and challenges.
• The inaugural release of a comprehensive sustainability report from INDA’s Market Intelligence department.
• A dedicated sustainability special edition of the International Fiber Journal, produced by INDA Media.
• Sustainability programming at INDA events, including a dedicated focus at the IDEA® 2025 conference.

Textiler Mittelstand ächzt unter Regulierung und Nachfrageschwund: „Das Maß ist voll“, sagt Martina Bandte, Präsidentin von Gesamtmasche. „Ein Großteil des Kostendrucks geht auf das Konto einer realitätsfernen Regulierungspolitik. Das treibt bereits jeden Tag Firmen in die Insolvenz. Wir verwalten uns zu Tode.“

Mit -25,9 Indexpunkten verzeichnet der Geschäftsklimaindex der deutschen Maschenindustrie zum 1. Quartal 2024 ein Allzeittief und spiegelt damit eine noch schlechtere Stimmung wider als im Corona-Lockdown. Die Erwartungen für die nächsten Monate sehen dabei noch düsterer aus als die Beurteilung der aktuellen Lage. Sämtliche Indikatoren – von den Umsätzen über die Erträge, Preise, Auftragseingänge bis hin zur Kapazitätsauslastung und der Personalstärke – befinden sich im negativen Bereich. Über 42 Prozent der Hersteller rechnen mit fallenden Umsätzen im In- und Ausland. Gleichzeitig erwarten drei von fünf Unternehmen weiter fallende Erträge.

„Die Flut von Auflagen macht das Wirtschaften am Standort unrentabel“, sagt Martina Bandte. „Für das Erfassen von Daten, das Verfolgen von Lieferketten und die Einhaltung von unzähligen Berichtspflichten wenden wir bald mehr Zeit auf als für produktive Tätigkeit. Gleichzeitig kostet uns die Aufblähung des Verwaltungsapparats Milliarden.“ Für größte Verunsicherung sorgen derzeit verschiedene EU-Gesetzesinitiativen zur Kreislaufwirtschaft und zum Öko-Design von Produkten. Dabei steht der textile Mittelstand bereits jetzt vor dem Bürokratie-Kollaps. „Helfen kann nur ein sofortiger Stopp weiterer Auflagen und Verordnungen. Alles andere ist Politikversagen. Was wirtschaftlich nicht machbar ist, ist auch nicht nachhaltig. Unternehmer, die weiterhin in unternehmerischer Eigenverantwortung und Freiheit bestehen wollen, werden das mit Nachdruck über ihre Netzwerke kommunizieren.

Der Referentenentwurf des Bürokratieentlastungsgesetzes sieht die Reduktion von Schriftformerfordernissen vor – gehe im Arbeitsrecht aber nicht weit genug, so der südwestdeutsche Arbeitgeberverband.

Am 11. Januar 2024 hat das Bundesministerium für Justiz seinen Referentenentwurf des Vierten Gesetzes zur Bürokratieentlastung (BEG IV-E) veröffentlicht. Der Entwurf sieht auch Gesetzesänderungen im Bereich des Nachweisgesetzes vor.

Die von Südwesttextil bereits im letzten Jahr geforderte Nachbesserung des Eckpunktepapiers findet sich im Referentenentwurf nicht wieder. Aus Perspektive des Arbeitgeberverbands gehen die vorgesehenen Änderungen nicht weit genug. Im Referentenentwurf wird weiterhin lediglich die elektronische Form als Ersatz für die Schriftform vorgesehen.

Die schriftliche Aushändigung der wesentlichen Arbeitsbedingungen kann somit weiterhin nur unterbleiben, wenn ein Arbeitsvertrag in elektronischer Form abgeschlossen worden ist. Um den Formvorgaben des Nachweisgesetzes zu genügen, reicht die Textform also weiterhin nicht. Südwesttextil-Hauptgeschäftsführerin Edina Brenner betont die Position des Verbands: „Im Arbeitsrecht lässt die Bundesregierung eine signifikante Stellschraube der Bürokratieentlastung aus. Die praktische Reduktion des Aufwands durch die elektronische Form geht nicht weit genug und könnte durch die Zulassung der im Geschäftsverkehr üblichen und anerkannten Textform signifikant erhöht werden. Die Nachbesserung des Referentenentwurfs ist für einen echten Bürokratieabbau dringend geboten.“

Wie bewerten Sie das Jahr 2023 und die Aussichten für 2024? Wie stehen Sie zur vieldiskutierten Idee, die Sommersaison zu verlängern und damit später Herbst/Wintermode zu präsentieren? Welche digitalen Vertriebskanäle nutzen Sie (noch)? Welche Rolle spielen nachhaltige Sortimente bei Ihren Kunden? Und wo sehen Sie aktuell die größten Problemfelder der Branche?    

Dies sind einige der Fragen aus der aktuellen BTE-Unternehmerumfrage. Jedes Unternehmen aus dem Textil-, Schuh- und Lederwarenhandel ist zur Teilnahme eingeladen. Alle Antworten werden vertraulich behandelt.

Die Fragen sind in wenigen Minuten zu beantworten. Der BTE bittet um eine rege Beteiligung, um ein möglichst repräsentatives Bild der Branche zu erhalten und die Wünsche und Forderungen der Unternehmen noch besser vertreten zu können. Die Ergebnisse werden voraussichtlich im Februar veröffentlicht. Auf Wunsch erhalten die Teilnehmer eine separate Auswertung zugemailt, es ist aber auch eine anonyme Teilnahme möglich.   

Die Fragen sollten idealerweise online beantwortet werden, der entsprechende Link ist auf der Startseite der BTE-Homepage www.bte.de zu finden, dort steht der Fragebogen auch zum Download bzw. Ausdruck bereit. Der BTE bittet um eine Beantwortung bis 25. Januar 2024. 

This year’s edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME proved to be a success for the exhibiting VDMA member companies. Measured by booked square metres, Germany had the largest contingent, among the foreign exhibitors. More than 40 VDMA member companies were exhibiting their innovative products in Shanghai.

Dr. Janpeter Horn, chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association noted: “Although facing a difficult market situation, this year’s edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME has exceeded the expectations, both in terms of the number of visitors and the quality of the talks. The significant number of foreign visitors to the fair was particularly pleasing.”

Solutions were demonstrated for more sustainable textile productions by most of the exhibitors, and here the VDMA members presented their technologies for saving water, energy and raw materials under the heading “Smart technologies for green textile production.”  

Dr. Uwe Rondé, CEO, Saurer Intelligent Technology AG explained: “Saurer is satisfied with both the number of visitors and the quality of the discussions. Our booth was full from morning to evening with customers focused on latest technologies within the three mega trends: recycling, automation and digitalisation. Although machine utilisation in the spinning mills is still well below average, people are already gathering information and thinking about what to invest in once the market recovers.”

Benjamin Reiners, owner of Reiners + Fürst stated: „This year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME has exceeded our expectations by far. Especially the first day - a Sunday - has brought many high-quality customers and exclusively decision makers to our booth. We estimate about 20% international customers mainly from Bangladesh, Egypt, India, Iran, Pakistan, Uzbekistan and Vietnam. All customers agreed that the market situation at the moment is difficult, capacity usage is between 50-75% in the ring spinning sector and improvement is expected not before the 2nd half of 2024. Nevertheless the general spirit is very positive.“

“This ITMA ASIA was a great success for Trützschler. We welcomed a large number of Chinese visitors to our booth, as well as a significant number of interested international visitors”, said Dr. Bettina Temath, Head of Global Marketing Trützschler Group SE.

Georg Stausberg, CEO of the polymer processing solutions division and chief sustainability officer of the Oerlikon Group stated: „We can look back on a successful show where we were able to meet many of our customers not only from China, but also from Pakistan, India and Indonesia, for example.”

“A very well-attended trade fair, with interesting discussions, great innovative topics, in line with the modern and rapidly developing China" noted Wolfgang Schöffl, head of product line weaving machines and member of the extended management, Lindauer Dornier.

The VDMA Textile Machinery Association and VDMA China were present at the fair, to support the members e.g. with regard to IPR. With the help of a VDMA expert and a contracted law firm, the member company Sahm submitted a complaint application for patent infringement disputes during the exhibition to the onsite IPR office. Both parties, Sahm, and the Chinese company, that used patented design without permission reached an agreement: The Chinese company had to stop displaying functions and designs involving patent infringement on site which meant the removal of some structural parts and the covering of key components protected by patent protection.

Dr. Harald Weber, managing director of VDMA Textile Machinery concluded: “Asia, and China in particular, represent the primary foreign markets for the VDMA member companies in the sector. The Chinese market is the main destination for their exports. Other major export destinations in Asia include India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan. ITMA ASIA + CITME provides a unique platform to showcase technologies for customers directly in Asia. The VDMA member companies are looking forward to the coming edition of the fair from 14 to 18 October 2024 in Shanghai.”

The latest survey of VDMA members' subsidiaries in China gives reason to hope that the economic situation in the Chinese textile industry could also improve significantly in the second half of the year. In addition, European textile machinery manufacturers are urged to be present on the most important market and at the trade fair and to offer Asian customers most advanced technology for their demanding challenges.

2024 is a turning point for the European textiles and clothing industry: From 6 to 9 June 2024, European citizens will vote for a new European Parliament and, based on the results, a new European Commission will be formed. In view of this important election, EURATEX publishes a Manifesto, presenting 15 requests which will help to ensure a competitive European textiles and clothing industry.

The textile and apparel industry is making a substantial contribution to European wealth, jobs and growth. Europe counts 192,000 companies employing 1.3 million workers with a turnover of €167 billion and over €67 billion of exports. Entrepreneurship should be recognised as the foundation for a competitive textile industry, offering high quality and sustainable products, based on innovation, creativity and design. European policy makers should recognise such role to textiles and apparel companies and have an open dialogue to create better framework conditions to operate in the internal and global markets.

To realise that vision, the industry and policy makers need to work together on a mix of policy measures and initiatives, which are coherent and offer a transparent and predictable framework for our companies, and make them more resilient and competitive.

These policies should focus around four points:

Develop and implement a “smart” EU industrial policy
Europe should create policies which enhance competitiveness, instead of creating administrative burdens. To EURATEX, each new piece of legislation should undergo a “competitiveness test” to critically look at the impact of the new rules. Europe should also create a favourable environment to promote education and jobs in the industry. The EU textile industry currently employees 1,3 million people, 30% of which is above 50 years old. A critical bottleneck for the textile industry is to attract (young) people and make sure these people have the right set of skills, to operate in a changing textile ecosystem. EURATEX also asks the EU to invest in innovation and digitalisation as they are key to the European competitive advantage. Not only, as the last years have proved, Europe should provide companies with access to sustainable energy at lower prices.

No sustainability without competitiveness
The EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles is pushing our sector towards new business models with a lower environmental footprint. To realise that ambition, no less than 16 regulatory proposals are on the table, each of them with a different timetable, managed by different departments of the European Commission. EURATEX is committed to sustainability, but asks for economic realism. This set of new regulations needs to be coherent, enforceable, feasible and applicable for SMEs, and not push textile companies out of the market. Moreover, some member states are moving forward faster and some legislations will be decided at national level, creating fragmentation of the market. Such scenarios will hamper Europe and its possibilities to grow.

Ensure free and fair trade
With $224 billion in sold merchandise, Europe is the second major world exporters of textiles and clothes after China ($321 billion). It is therefore important that the global market should be open, free and fair for our industry to continue to thrive. Besides the support to FTAs in general, EURATEX wants to emphasise that all trade agreements should offer effective market access for EU companies and a level playing field in these markets. A free and open market should go hand in hand also with protection against free riders. The EU must always consider enforcement and enforceability when making new laws; it should also take action together with the member states for a better coordination with harmonised criteria for action among Customs Authorities.

Incentivise the Demand for sustainable textiles
Sustainable textile products typically come at a premium price, making it difficult for many consumers and buyers to purchase such products. Many surveys across Europe confirm that around 50% of interviewees do not purchase sustainable fashion products and the main reason is price. EURATEX believes that, to create a demand and help consumers to buy a (genuine) sustainable textile product, there should be standard requirements and fiscal incentives. Public authorities should also implement green public procurements, by increasing the importance of sustainability criteria in their evaluation grids.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), spanning the entire spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber to finished sewn products, commended Congress for passing the Fiscal Year 2024 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA), legislation that will help preserve the Berry Amendment supply chain and direct the Department of Defense to expand its procurement of domestically-made textile goods for military use.

“We applaud the House and Senate for getting NDAA across the finish line and are pleased the legislation will now go to President Biden for his signature,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “NCTO sincerely thanks Rep. Don Davis (D-NC) for sponsoring language expressing concern about offshoring textile manufacturing and highlighting the need for the DOD and Defense Logistics Agency (DLA) to procure more domestically-produced textile goods for military use. The language also requires the DOD to report on the feasibility of requiring American-made home textile goods to be used on military installations.”

“We also want to thank Rep. Joe Courtney (D-CT) who sponsored language expressing concern about economic factors impacting the capacity of the U.S. textile industry to meet DOD requirements and calling on the agency to assess labor shortages, contract forecasting and lack of investment in manufacturing capabilities and report back to Congress.”

Finally, this NDAA report language calls for DOD to report to Congress its assessment of the textile industry as it relates to labor shortages, contract forecasting and lack of investment in manufacturing capabilities.

“The domestic textile industry and supply chain are vital to the warm industrial base for the production of critical items that contribute to our nation’s health and safety. It is imperative that Congress and the administration continue to support this industry—a key contributor to our national defense that supplies over 8,000 products a year to our men and women in uniform—through expanded government procurement of American-made items. The NDAA is critical to supporting this manufacturing base,” Glas said.

from both inside and outside of Asia. Looking ahead, the stage will be set once again at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai) next year, allowing exhibitors and buyers from the industry to match their trading needs onsite. Thanks to the resumption of global travel and the ongoing industry recovery, the next Autumn edition is slated to attract even more multinational fairgoers and diverse home and contract textile collections. The fair will return in 14 – 16 August 2024.

A recent study showed a significant rise in corporate travel in 2023, driven largely by the resurgence of live business events and the easing of restrictions following several turbulent years. Adding to this, the Chinese government has announced several measures in a bid to attract more international visitors, including a simplified visa application process as the latest initiative.
 
As one of the largest economies in the world, China is renowned for producing high-value products across the home textile spectrum, making Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles an essential stop for global suppliers and buyers aiming to kick off the next business season.  
 
Emerging markets have become a significant focus for the industry in recent years. China's exports of home textiles to the ASEAN market amounted to around USD 2.09 billion in the first quarter of 2023, with an increase of 18% year-on-year; of which around USD 1.38 billion was exported in finished goods, seeing a rise of over 42% year-on-year[3]. With this growth in trade, buyers from fast growing emerging markets are expected to increasingly benefit from the Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles platform to fulfil their sourcing needs.
 
The upcoming Autumn edition will continue to comprise a wide range of home textile products, including bedding & towelling, rugs, table & kitchen linen, upholstery & curtain fabrics, editors, home textile technologies and textile design.
 
Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Autumn Edition is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA).

 INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, has released an upgraded, more user-friendly version of their International Nonwovens Directory. With enhanced search and navigation features, nonwoven professionals can easily source suppliers or manufacturers based on their product needs.

Some of the search categories include:

• Raw material suppliers
• Nonwoven material suppliers
• Machinery and equipment suppliers
• Converters
• Brand owners and marketers
• Service providers