From the Sector

The European Textile and Clothing industry (EURATEX) welcomes the proposed reforms to the EU's customs system, emphasizing the need for a modernized framework that addresses the challenges of the digital age and fosters a level playing field.

“Customs play a critical role in safeguarding fair competition within the EU Single Market and ensuring that products meet our environmental and safety standards,” states Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General. “We recognize the need for a reformed system adapted to the 21st century, particularly considering the growth of e-commerce and the increasing complexity of regulations.”

EURATEX highlights key priorities for a successful reform:

• Phasing Out De Minimis Exemption: EURATEX strongly supports abolishing the €150 import duty exemption for small consignments. This exemption has been exploited by e-commerce companies, creating unfair competition for European manufacturers. EURATEX urges immediate action to eliminate this loophole, rather than waiting until 2028.
• Harmonization and Streamlining: The organization calls for a unified customs regime across the EU, with simplified procedures and reduced administrative burdens for businesses, especially SMEs. This includes avoiding duplication of efforts and ensuring seamless interoperability between different customs information systems.
• Data Security and Transparency: EURATEX emphasizes the importance of robust data security measures within the proposed EU Data Hub. Clear regulations on data access, ownership, and cybersecurity safeguards are essential. Open collaboration between industry and policymakers is crucial in designing the Data Hub for optimal functionality.
• Effective Implementation of Trust & Check Trader (T&CT): The T&CT status offers potential benefits for companies through features like self-assessment. However, EURATEX raises concerns about practical implementation, particularly for SMEs struggling to obtain existing Authorized Economic Operator (AEO) statuses. Providing support for SMEs in obtaining this status is crucial.
• Interoperability and Data Sharing: EURATEX emphasizes the importance of the EU Data Hub's interoperability with various IT systems. Also, a uniform central IT network facilitating national and other legal requirements would be a significant step forward.
• Structured Dialogue with Stakeholders: The establishment of the EU Customs Authority (EUCA) is seen as a positive development for coordinating customs enforcement across the EU. EURATEX recommends a dedicated dialogue between the EUCA and stakeholders, including industry representatives, to improve overall coordination and effectiveness.

In sync with the fair’s 30th anniversary, the sourcing platform will host around 12 fringe events for fairgoers to stay ahead of the curve, under the following segments: Design Inspiration, Business O2O, Textiles & Technologies, and Industry Empowerment. Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles has joined forces with Danish trend agency SPOTT trends & business to present the design theme for 2025 – ‘Healing Home’ – together with eight trend directions set to captivate the home textiles market. Set to be a hotspot for in vogue sourcing and industry exchange, the show will take place at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai) from 14 – 16 August 2024.

To help home textile industry players set the tone and direction for the upcoming business season, the fair will present Trends 2025 along with leading trend agency SPOTT trends & business, to illustrate the ‘Healing Home– Spaces for Thriving Living’ theme that marks the path ahead for the evolving sector. This concept conveys the idea of a home that promotes a remedial, prosperous lifestyle, improving peoples’ general health and well-being, with several key factors contributing to the overarching theme:

• Eight key directions: Age-Old Crafts, Nature-Tech Synergies, Regenerative Possibilities, Wellbeing Spaces, Colourful Gatherings, Bio-Engineered Innovations, Transitional Practices, and Circular Systems.
• Five key colours: deep burgundy, warm terracotta, light creamy shade, saturated nostalgic green, and vaporous blue.

The founder of SPOTT trends & business, Ms Anja Bisgaard Gaede, will be onsite to share insights related to these new design trends. Fairgoers are invited to join her interactive trend tour, and physically experience the concepts steering the industry's future.

With the intention of sparking further design inspiration for industry players, an expert panel discussion of Chinese interior architects and designers, InterDesign Forum, will be held on the afternoon of Day 1. Focusing on design trend topics related to sustainability, Mr Shen Lei, Founder and Design Director of Interior Architects Design and the Chinese representative of the Intertextile International Lifestyle Trend Committee, will lead the discussion. Adding an international perspective, Ms Anja Bisgaard Gaede will join them for the accompanying round table talk.

In addition to serving as a gateway for efficient sourcing, the show will inspire fairgoers through its fringe programme, with various formats and topics unpacking current talking points.

Highlighted sessions include:    

• Round table discussion: Bridging Borders: A Designer x Producer Talk on Sustainability – a dialogue between designers and manufacturers, exploring how to collaboratively overcome sustainability challenges and reconcile the demands of both sides, from both Eastern and Western perspectives.
• Econogy Talks: selected exhibitors, including 3M, Advansa and many more, as well as a representative from Indorama will showcase their innovative green products, giving attendees in-person insights into some of the market’s latest sustainable developments in the Sustainable Fibre Forum. Additionally, a Messe Frankfurt representative will explain the Texpertise Econogy concept, the combination of economy and ecology that represents the sustainability activities in the company’s Texpertise Network. The discussion will show how crucial sustainability is for the economic success of a business today, and indicate how fairgoers can benefit from such an approach.

Beyond the subject of a greener textile industry, other topics will be explored at various events. With more to be announced in the coming weeks, the following seminars hosted by international experts will provide the latest trends and market updates:

• Bridging Worlds: Design Strategies for Success in Middle Eastern Markets: Ms Esra Lemmens (Day 1)
• How Psychology Impacts the Way We Design Spaces: Ms Pallavi Dean (Day 1)

Moreover, the 10th Home Textiles and Furniture Industry Ecological Integration Forum will bring together home textile and furniture brands to explore cross-industry collaboration and provide one-stop home solutions. The 30th China Home Textiles Design Festival & Designer Recommended Brand Awards will showcase the latest trends and achievements in home design, allowing participating brands to gain recognition from designers. Meanwhile, the 7th China International Fibre Art Exhibition will invite influential artists from home and abroad to present diverse contemporary fibre artworks; and the China Intangible Cultural Heritage of Textile Exhibition will showcase some remarkable displays.  

Der Wirtschafts- und Arbeitgeberverband tagte am 11. Juli 2024 mit abwechslungsreichem Programm und Blick in die Zukunft im CARMEN WÜRTH FORUM in Künzelsau.

Im Spannungsfeld zwischen globalen Konflikten und nachhaltiger Transformation lud der Verband Mitglieder und Gäste zur Jahrestagung in das CARMEN WÜRTH FORUM nach Künzelsau ein. In seiner Ansprache an die Mitglieder erklärte Präsident Arved Westerkamp den Bedarf, sich als Unternehmen zielgerichtet und innovativ den Herausforderungen der Zukunft zu stellen. Der Green Deal mit zahlreichen Initiativen bedeute für die Branche veränderte Rahmenbedingungen.

In seiner anschließenden Begrüßung der Gäste des öffentlichen Teils der Tagung bekräftigte Arved Westerkamp: „Hier hat Textil Zukunft – das werden wir mit nachhaltigen Produktkreisläufen und High-End-Wertschöpfungsstätten ebenso unter Beweis stellen, wie mit einer Willkommenskultur für Fach- und Nachwuchskräfte aus dem In- und Ausland.“
 
Im Rahmen der Mitgliederversammlung wurde Südwesttextil-Vizepräsident und Schatzmeister Mathias Eggle verabschiedet. Der langjährige OLYMP-Geschäftsführer verabschiedet sich nach 40 Jahren in der Bekleidungsindustrie in den wohlverdienten Ruhestand. Bei den Zuwahlen wurde Maximilian d’Huc, Senior Vice President Human Resources, Paul Hartmann AG, neu ins Präsidium des Verbands gewählt. Der Vorstand des Verbands wird durch Beatrice Lederer, Geschäftsführerin, Jörg Lederer GmbH, Melanie Röger, Geschäftsführerin, Würth MODYF GmbH & Co. KG, und Alexander Hoffmann, Director HR, Legal & Compliance, Olymp Bezner KG ergänzt.
 
Neben einer Führung durch das Würth Museum 2 oder der Logistik der Würth Gruppe, bereicherte Prof. Dr. Dr. Dr. h.c. Franz Josef Radermacher mit seiner Keynote „Mit Verantwortung wachsen – Globalisierung im Textilsektor gestalten“ das Programm. Die Gäste ließen den Sommerabend bei Livemusik auf der weitläufigen Piazza umgeben vom Skulpturengarten des CARMEN WÜRTH FORUMs ausklingen.

The start to the premiere of the CHINA WAVE pavilion at Pitti Uomo 106: the first stop of the "2024 China National Garment Association Overseas Programme" was a complete success for the participating designer labels from China. The Chinese brands impressed the international fashion world with their exclusive and extraordinary collections at the Costruzioni Lorenesi in the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. The famous fashion journalist, Suzy Menkes, was also impressed by the creations.

The styles and current looks from from VALLEYOUTH, KB HONG BY K-BOXING, RAXXY, JDV, FENGGY, BLACKHEAD, KEYONE BY HATTERSHUB, TYPETAIL impressed buyers, fashionistas and media representatives alike with their design expertise, creativity and product quality. The combination of contemporary styles with traditional Chinese elements, as seen in the collections of KB HONG by BY K-BOXING, JDV and VALLEYOUTH, among others, attracted international audience from Italy, Germany, France, Great Britain, Spain, Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates, the USA, Mexico, Canada, Australia and many more.

Among those welcomed to the pavilion was Suzy Menkes, who emphasised the combination of tradition and modernity in collections such as those from KB HONG by BY K-BOXING and VALLEYOUTH in the CHINA WAVE pavilion. VALLEYOUTH's new collection was presented by fashion photographer Acielle from style du monde at Vogue World, while fashion blogger Augusto Ferretti commented on the brands' designs as "artistic sculptures". The appearance of the famous Chinese actor and singer AYUNGA as a testimonial for the new KB HONG by BY K-BOXING collection at Pitti Uomo attracted particular attention.

Further stops of the "2024 China National Garment Association Overseas Programme" are Who's Next in Paris and TheOne Milano in Milan in September.

The next CHINA WAVE presentation at Pitti Uomo is planned for January 2025.

• “Natural Materials: The Path Towards Brand Responsibility” Panel Discussion Comes to Functional Fabric Fair in NYC

As global regulations and increased customer concern drive the demand for sustainable products, forward thinking brands are increasingly turning to natural materials as a sustainable alternative.

This panel will spotlight how newer biomass-based textiles are complementing established materials like down and wool to not only enhance performance but also to meet evolving consumer demands for eco-friendly products.

Hosted by textile industry communications agency Formidable Media and scheduled for Tuesday, July 16, this panel will provide an inside look at how natural materials can be leveraged to grow brand responsibility while elevating textile performance.

The discussion will feature insights from leaders in sustainability and textile innovation, exploring the opportunities and challenges in adopting natural materials within supply chains. Attendees can expect a deep dive into the latest advancements and best practices that are shaping the future of responsible sourcing and manufacturing in the textile sector.

Panelists include:

• Matthew Betcher, Creative Director, ALLIED Feather + Down
• Monica Ebert, Business Development and Sustainability, Manager, Woolmark
• Sharon Perez, Senior Business Development Manager, Lenzing Group
• Chad Kelly, President, eVent Fabrics

TradeBeyond, a provider of supply chain solutions, has announced its latest AI-powered innovation, its PO Line Risk Rating. This toolset revolutionizes quality management and risk assessment by leveraging artificial intelligence to analyze thousands of historical data points, providing businesses with accuracy and efficiency in managing their supply chain’s quality risks.

Part of TradeBeyond’s Pivot88 platform, its PO Line Risk Rating functionality uses advanced machine learning algorithms to continuously improve risk assessments for quality failures. By employing predictive analytics to evaluate multiple risk factors such as product type, materials used, country of origin and many others, the system assigns a percentage risk score to each purchase order line, indicating the likelihood of quality issues or delays. This allows businesses to proactively identify and address high-risk PO lines.

This functionality provides critical insights and reporting on the most significant risk factors affecting each PO line. Risk ratings are displayed as part of users’ existing workflows, enabling better planning and prioritization of inspections and audits. Customizable risk thresholds allow quality managers to set their own parameters for risk levels, ensuring that resources are allocated effectively and strategically.

The 2nd Textiles Innovation Conference held by KARL MAYER North America proved to be a complete success. The trade event took place from June 25 to 27, 2024 at the headquarters of the KARL MAYER GROUP subsidiary in Greensboro, North Carolina. The conference boasted a turnout with over 200 attendees, exhibitors, and keynote speakers. While the majority hailed from many states across the USA, the event also attracted a global audience, including participants from Italy, Canada, Mexico, and other countries. The central theme: the importance of textiles made in the USA, their value and influence on global markets.

The conference brought together leading industry brands and academic institutions to delve into the future of product development and sustainability in textiles. KM.ON, Black Swan, Meta, and Supreme shared a convergence of ideas, challenges, and groundbreaking advancements shaping the textile landscape. NC State and Kent State universities highlighted their efforts in developing local talent and enhancing research capabilities to meet industry demand for regional supply chains. Manufacturing Solutions Center, Southern Textile Association, and AFFOA (Advanced Functional Fabrics of America) explored research capabilities and technology testing to foster funding opportunities and generate ideas for the future.

The recipe for success also included a lecture program. The conference kicked off with a keynote speech from New Balance, a brand that empowers people through sport and craftsmanship. New Balance MADE U.S., their premium collection manufactured domestically, reflects their commitment to quality and community impact. On day two Kenny Wilsey, Sourcing Director at Dillard’s, shared his expertise to ensure adherence to quality standards and social compliance requirements for private label brands. To complete the speaker series, Allison Hicks, Lead Knit Engineer at Under Armour, inspired attendees with her innovative approach to performance footwear, apparel, and accessories.

Important topics at the conference were sustainability and digitalization: Unifi showcased high-performance fibers made from recyclable materials and pre- or post-consumer waste management initiatives. KM.ON, the digital solution company of the KARL MAYER GROUP, displayed artificial intelligence applications for quality control, supply chain optimization, and predictive maintenance for warp knitting and knitwear production.

The Textile Innovation Conference program was rounded out by an exhibition of selected textile supply chain partners. These business partners supplemented the information about innovation presented in the lectures and performance demonstrations of the latest STOLL flat knitting and KARL MAYER warp knitting machines.

Forschern des Sächsischen Textilforschungsinstituts e.V. (STFI) ist es gemeinsam mit internationalen Partnern gelungen, den Wirkstoff der Graviolapflanze so aufzubereiten, dass dieser für den Einsatz in Textilien verwendet werden kann. Die Stachelannone, wie die Pflanze auch genannt wird, ist in ihrer tropischen Heimat als Heilpflanze bekannt.

Abgeleitet aus den Megatrends Gesundheit, Wellness und Nachhaltigkeit besteht allgemein ein sehr großes Interesse an Textilien mit integrierten natürlichen, pflanzlichen Wirkstoffen. In der Naturmedizin werden die Blätter des tropischen Graviolabaumes (Annona muricata) zur Verbesserung des Wohlbefindens und zur Behandlung zahlreicher Krankheiten eingesetzt. Die Wirkung der Graviolapflanze ist hauptsächlich auf die enthaltenen aktiven Wirkstoffe Acetogenine zurückzuführen. Gewinnung, Aufbereitung und Einsatz dieser Wirkstoffe für textile Anwendungen waren bisher noch kein Forschungsgegenstand.

Ziel des Projektes GRAVIOLA war die Entwicklung neuartiger Textilien, die mit Wirkstoffen der Graviolapflanze ausgerüstet sind. Das Aufbringen der aktiven Wirkstoffe wurde auf zwei verschiedenen Wegen untersucht: eine direkte Ausrüstung der Textilien mit Beschichtungssystemen, in die Graviolawirkstoffe integriert wurden, und die Applikation von Mikrokapseln, welche mit Acetogeninen beladen wurden. Bei der direkten Beschichtung wurden Dispersionssysteme mit verschiedenen Bindemitteln verwendet. Diese Systeme wurden anschließend durch Imprägnierung per Foulard auf die Textiloberflächen aufgebracht. Bei der Mikrokapselmethode wurden die extrahierten Wirkstoffe aus Graviola in Mikrokapseln, kleiner als 100 Mikrometer, eingeschlossen. Textile Flächen wurden mit diesen Mikrokapseln und geeigneten Bindemittelsystemen ausgerüstet.

Durch die Einbindung von wässrigen Mikrokapsel-Suspensionen in geeignete Bindemittelsysteme wurden die Mikrokapseln so fixiert, dass eine problemlose Verarbeitbarkeit des Textilmaterials gewährleistet und die Freisetzung des Wirkstoffs über einen definierten Zeitraum aufrechterhalten werden kann. Die entwickelte stabile Ausrüstung für Maschenware und Vliesstoffe berücksichtigt wesentliche Textileigenschaften wie Farbechtheit, Wasserbeständigkeit und Reibung sowie humanökologische Anforderungen.

Mit Inhaltsstoffen der Graviola ausgerüstete Textilien bieten aufgrund ihrer entzündungshemmenden und gesundheitsfördernden Wirkung einen dermatologisch breit gefächerten Einsatz im Wellness- und Gesundheitsbereich sowie eine nachhaltige Verwendung im Textillebenszyklus.

Hergestellt wurden Funktionsmuster auf Basis a) von Mikrokapseln und b) von Graviola-Extrakten: „Sheet Masks“ aus Viskosevliesstoffen für den Beauty und Wellnesssektor sowie Single-Jersey-Gestricke mit Graviola-Extrakt und verkapselten Wirkstoffen, kombiniert mit Aloe Vera-Öl, für therapeutische Bekleidung zur Hautbehandlung.

Kooperationspartner
In diesem CORNET-Forschungsvorhaben kooperierten die deutschen Forschungsstellen Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V. (STFI), Chemnitz (Deutschland), und Fraunhofer-Institut für Angewandte Polymerforschung (IAP), Potsdam (Deutschland) mit der tschechischen Forschungsstelle INOTEX, Dvůr Kralove n.L. (Tschechien). Das Projekt wurde von den Forschungsvereinigungen Forschungskuratorium Textil e.V. (FKT), Berlin (Deutschland) und Clutex - klastr technické textilie, Liberec (Tschechien) unterstützt.

Südwesttextil-Vizepräsidentin Donata Apelt-Ihling ist für ihr unternehmerisches und ehrenamtliches Engagement für Branche und Gesellschaft mit dem Bundesverdienstkreuz am Bande geehrt worden.

Seit 1982 Gesellschafterin im Familienunternehmen, der Alfred Apelt GmbH, ist Donata Apelt-Ihling seit 2006 Vizepräsidentin von Südwesttextil. Ihr Engagement für die Branche weitete die Dipl.-Betriebswirtin als Mitglied im Vorstand der Landesvereinigung Baden-Württembergische Arbeitgeberverbände e.V. seit 2008 und als Mitglied des Präsidiums des Gesamtverbands der deutschen Textil- und Modeindustrie e.V. seit 2009 aus. Die Themen Bildung, Arbeitsmarktpolitik, europäische Integration und die Förderung der Beziehungen zu den europäischen Nachbarn sind der Unternehmerin dabei ein besonderes Anliegen. Seit 2021 ist Donata Apelt-Ihling Mitglied des Präsidiums der fusionierten Unternehmer Baden-Württemberg und stärkt damit die Wahrnehmung der Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie auf Landesebene.

Über ihre Verdienste um die baden-württembergische und deutsche Wirtschaft hinaus, hat Donata Apelt-Ihling soziale Verantwortung und persönlichen Einsatz insbesondere in den Bereichen Integration, Bildung und Jugend gezeigt. Beispielhaft dafür sind die Gründung der „Oberkircher Lesepaten“ zur Leseförderung und Integration von Kindern mit besonderem pädagogischem Bedarf, ihr Engagement im Kinderschutzbund, insbesondere in der Flüchtlingsbetreuung, und ihre Schirmherrschaft des RheumaPreises.

Donata Apelt-Ihling erhielt das Bundesverdienstkreuz am Bande im Rahmen einer feierlichen Verleihung in Oberkirch. Die Laudatio hielt Marion Gentges MdL, Ministerin der Justiz und für Migration des Landes Baden-Württemberg. Südwesttextil dankt seiner Vizepräsidentin für ihr ausdauerndes und herausragendes
Engagement und gratuliert zu der Auszeichnung.

Salvation Army charity shops have won two major awards from the Charity Retail Association for Outstanding Charity Retailer of the Year, and Environmental and Sustainability at the CRA Annual Conference held at the Harrogate Convention Centre on 26th June 2024.

This is the second time the charity has won the Outstanding Charity Retailer of the Year Award in the past four years - winning it outright in 2022 and 2024, and also being shortlisted in 2021 and 2023.

The Environmental and Sustainability Award sets out specific criteria that organisations must demonstrate, including the introduction of green policies, and new ways of dealing with textile recycling.

Both award categories focused on retail initiatives and key achievements over the previous 12 months. SATCoL recently announced its highest trading results and a record-breaking donation to its parent charity of over £11.2m.

In 2022 SATCoL launched its 5-Year Strategic Plan under the theme of ‘Dare to CARE’ – this included new performance measures for People, Planet and Profit. CARE represents SATCoL's values of Compassion, Accountability, Respect and Equality. The company continues to invest in its donation centres and refurbishing more high street shops – 10 new donation centres opened and 9 high street shops were refurbished in the year 2022-23.

SATCoL has also invested heavily in innovations including FibersortTM, an automatic sorting process that identifies and sorts second-hand garments by fibre type, and Project Re:claimTM, a commercial-scale polyester recycling plant designed to recycle end-of-life textiles. Project Re:claim is a joint venture with Project Plan B.