From the Sector

• Swiss weaving machinery manufacturers are in the forefront of novel application development

Shoes and electronic calculators are probably not the first products people would associate with the textile weaving process. But they certainly signpost the future for woven fabrics, as two examples of the ever-wider possibilities of latest technology in the field. Fashion and function already combine in the increasing popularity of woven fabrics for shoes, and this is a present and future trend. Calculators in fabrics? That’s another story of ingenious development, using so-called ‘meander fields’ on the back and keys printed on the front of the material.

These glimpses of the outlook for modern weavers are among the highlights of developments now being pioneered by Swiss textile machinery companies. All weaving markets require innovation, as well as speed, efficiency, quality and sustainability. Member firms of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association respond to these needs at every point in the process – from tightening the first thread in the warp to winding the last inch for fabric delivery. They also share a common advantage, with a leading position in the traditional weaving industry as well as the expertise to foster new and exciting applications.

Technology and research cooperation
The concept of a ‘textile calculator’ was developed by Jakob Müller Group, in cooperation with the textile research institute Thuringen-Vogtland. Müller’s patented MDW® multi-directional weaving technology is able to create the meander fields which allow calculator functions to be accessed at a touch. A novel and useful facility, which suggests limitless expansion.

Today, the latest woven shoes are appreciated for their precise and comfortable fit. They score through their durability, strength and stability, meeting the requirements of individual athletes across many sports, as well as leisurewear. Stäubli is well known as a leading global specialist in weaving preparation, shedding systems and high-speed textile machinery. Its jacquard machines offer great flexibility across a wide range of formats, weaving all types of technical textiles, lightweight reinforcement fabrics – and shoes.

It’s possible to weave new materials such as ceramics, mix fibers such as aramid, carbon and other, and produce innovative multi-layers with variable thicknesses. Such applications put special demands on weaving machines which are fulfilled by Stäubli high-performance TF weaving systems.

Great weaving results are impossible without perfect warp tension, now available thanks to the world-leading electronic warp feeding systems of Crealet. Some market segments in weaving industry today demand warp let-off systems which meet individual customer requirements. For example, the company has recognized expertise to understand that geotextile products often need special treatment, as provided by its intelligent warp tension control system. Individual and connective solutions are designed to allow external support via remote link. Crealet’s warp let-off systems are widely used in both ribbon and broadloom weaving, for technical textiles applied on single or multiple warp beams and creels.

Functional, sustainable, automated
Trends in the field of woven narrow fabrics are clearly focused on functionality and sustainability. The Jakob Müller Group has already embraced these principles – for example using natural fibers for 100% recyclable labels with a soft-feel selvedge. It also focuses as much as possible on the processing of recycled, synthetic materials. Both PET bottles and polyester waste from production are recycled and processed into elastic and rigid tapes for the apparel industry.

For efficient fabric production environments, it is now recognized that automated quality solutions are essential. Quality standards are increasing everywhere and zero-defect levels are mandatory for sensitive applications such as airbags and protective apparel.

Uster’s latest generation of on-loom monitoring and inspection systems offers real operational improvements for weavers. The fabric quality monitoring prevents waste, while the quality assurance system significantly improves first-quality yield for all applications. Protecting fabric makers from costly claims and damaged reputations, automated fabric inspection also removes the need for slow, costly and unreliable manual inspection, freeing operators to focus on higher-skilled jobs.

Smart and collaborative robotics (cobots) offer many automation possibilities in weaving rooms. Stäubli’s future oriented robotics division is a driver in this segment with first effective installations in warp and creel preparation.

Control and productivity
Willy Grob’s specialized solutions for woven fabric winding focus on reliable control of tension, keeping it constant from the start of the process right through to the full cloth roll. Continuous digital control is especially important for sensitive fabrics, while performance and productivity are also critical advantages. In this regard, the company’s large-scale batching units can provide ten times the winding capacity of a regular winder integrated in the weaving machine.

The customized concept by Grob as well as design and implementation result in great flexibility and functionality of the fabric winding equipment – yet another example of Swiss ingenuity in textile machinery.  
There is even more innovation to come in weaving – and in other segments – from members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association in future! This confident assertion is founded on an impressive statistic: the 4077 years of experience behind the creative power of the association’s member firms. It’s proof positive that their developments grow out of profound knowledge and continuous research.

HIGHTEX International Technical Textiles and Nonwoven Trade Fair, which is planned to be held on June 22-26, 2021 was decided to postpone to June 14-18, 2022, considering the effects of the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic in the world. This postponement decision was taken as a result of intense discussions and evaluations with our participants and sector representatives.

The HIGHTEX Organization Team made the following statements: “We as HIGHTEX Organization Team, our priority is to protect your valuable exhibitors and visitors’ investments and all rights, not our commercial earnings. In this regard, we believe that all of our participants will find this compulsory postponement decision taken for the HIGTEX Exhibition justified and will understand.”

HIGHTEX 2022, which will be held in Istanbul Tuyap Fair and Congress Center between 14- 18 June 2022, simultaneously with the ITM 2022 Exhibition.

HIGHTEX 2022 being the first and only exhibition in its field in Turkey will host the world's leading technical textile and nonwoven manufacturers in Istanbul for 5 days.
HIGHTEX 2022, where many companies from Turkey and abroad will exhibit their latest technologies and products; will be visited by many industry professionals from medical to ready-to-wear, from decoration to cosmetics, from automotive to defense.

• Elasticated melange tape by JUMBO-Textil for exacting requirements

Reliable functionality, select aesthetics, exceptional comfort – the new elasticated melange tape from JUMBO-Textil can really do a lot – and looks extremely good doing it.

Great functionality and an elegant design
To create this innovative elasticated tape, different premium-quality yarns are woven into a high-performance tape for especially exacting demands in terms of comfort and visual appeal. The elasticated material offers amazing performance and robustness beyond its elegant, shimmering melange look and its pleasant, fabric-like feel.

•    Ideal for all applications on visible textile surfaces
•    Premium fabric-like aesthetic and feel
•    Shimmering melange effect
•    Can be manufactured in many individual types and fabrications
•    Additional designs possible: water repellent, flame retardant, etc.
•    For applications in vehicle interiors, functional clothing, the furniture industry, medical technology, and much more

Wide range of applications in numerous industries
The new melange tape is specially designed and made for all visible applications: from multimedia holding tapes or document retainers in vehicle interiors to the functional and attractive cuff on sleeves, trousers or braces of outdoor or work clothing through to tensioning straps on backpacks, in exoskeletons or upholstered furniture.

"Elasticated tapes are often developed and considered primarily from a functional point of view. In our case it is different: our new melange tape combines great functionality with an elegant design and shows that elasticated narrow textiles can also be aesthetic highlights," as Patrick Kielholz, Business Development Manager at JUMBO-Textil emphasises. "The potential applications for our melange tape are almost limitless. Exciting solutions are available for almost all industries."

The most important properties at a glance:

Colours: grey melange, black melange; optionally, various other colour options
Sample: single-colour melange; optionally, longitudinal stripes, melange
Width, Standard: 40.0 mm
Width, Customized: 10 mm – 320 mm
Elasticity: up to 60%

• 75% recycled content yarn with no performance compromise
• A circular, endlessly recyclable solution for contract, automotive and residential carpets
• Significant resource efficiency in EqoCycle production compared to virgin-based PA6 yarn: 58% reduction in fossil fuel use; 27% less energy consumption; 37% CO₂ emission reduction

B.I.G. Yarns announces its latest development, EqoCycle, a fully recyclable PA6 yarn with 75% recycled content, offering the same high-quality performance of virgin PA6 yarn. The new recycled yarn mainly based on post-industrial waste supports contract, automotive and residential carpet manufacturers with a drop-in circular solution to reduce the ecological footprint of their end products.

EqoCycle is made with recycled granulates derived from pre-consumer recycled and regenerated PA6, certified by Control Union for Global Recycled Standard (GRS) Certification. The use of less virgin materials implicates a decrease of fossil fuels by 58% and a 27% decrease in energy consumption. On top, EqoCycle yarns allow a reduction of 37% of CO₂ eq./kg compared to the fossil based yarns. The environmental impacts of EqoCycle with 75% recycled content were calculated through an LCA analysis, verified according to ISO 14025 and EN 15804+A1 and published in an Environmental Product Declaration (EPD registration number S-P-02415).

Customers have the assurance that for every 1.000 tons of EqoCycle yarn, 13,562 barrels of oil are saved and 2.700 tons of CO₂ emission are reduced, compared to PA6 traditionally made from virgin materials.

Emmanuel Colchen, General Manager Yarns Division, comments: “EqoCycle is a perfect example of how higher resource efficiency in our industry can promote greater circularity in our customers’ industries. Minimizing waste, re-using materials, and saving energy and carbon emissions in production, it provides our customers and carpet brands with a new sustainable alternative that won’t compromise their end-product performance but will support their increasing focus on CO₂ reduction and global warming potential. All part of our wider commitment to encourage decoupling from the need for only virgin feedstocks and moving towards a circular economy for yarns and soft flooring industries.”

EqoCycle is the latest circular solution in B.I.G. Yarns’ PA6 portfolio, joining EqoBalance PA6, based on biomass balance renewable resources, which offers up to 75% CO₂ reduction. Both exemplify the company’s on-going investment in developing new products that better serve customers’ needs in a sustainable way. B.I.G. Yarns fully pursues opportunities to support and solve the global environmental challenges through innovation, investment and collaboration, as part of its sincere belief in, and broader commitment to, Social Responsibility.

The innovation of EqoCycle and EqoBalance PA6 aligns with the company’s active integration of the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) into its business activities, creating value for customers and engaging employees and value chain partners.

A technology to reduce 75% of the water typically used in denim and garment laundry processes, this innovation is evidence of the commitment by Officina+39 to a more sustainable production and planet.

An Italy-based reality with a thirty-year experience on research and chemical application in the textile sector, Officina+39 brings to the table its latest innovation, launched in occasion of Kingpins 24 Flash: the AQUALESS MISSION. It features three products for one innovative process suitable for conventional machines: REMOVER BC, a laser booster, AQUALESS AGED, a waterless compound to give denim abrasion effects and OZ-ONE POWDER, an advanced product to give garments a bleached yet eco-friendly treatment, for a worn and distressed look.

REMOVER BC
This special compound increases laser effect on indigo or dischargeable dyestuff, saving time and energy for a swifter production. Due to the speedy process it also prevents fabric tearing whilst focusing on giving a used look.

AQUALESS AGED
Ideal to give abrasion effects on denim, this waterless treatment has a reduced impact on the environment and can be applied in combination with Oz-One powder both on black and indigo denim.

OZ-ONE POWDER
The sustainable (chlorine and potassium permanganate free) way to give denim that distressed and worn look, with no need of water or high temperatures.

AQUALESS MISSION meets the needs of the industry to reduce water in manufacturing operations, pledging to meet UN’s 2030 SDG 6 of clean water and sanitation, and by doing so protects the planet and its resources.

• BIONIC-FINISH®ECO Fluorine-Free, Water Repellent Finishes for Ultimate Performance

In recent years, many scientists have shifted from favoring a “primordial soup” in pools of water to hydrothermal vents deep in the ocean as the original source of life on Earth. Regardless what the real beginning really was, water was certainly involved in the process some 3,5bln years ago. And since then, Mother Nature designed many ways to benefit of water and to be sheltered from it. Many engineering challenges humans face can be solved by turning to those 3,5bln years of experience and by using natural design as springboard. That’s biologically inspired engineering or, in short, bionics. BIONIC-FINISH®ECO of RUDOLF GROUP is Mother Nature’s work reproduced on textiles and apparel to protect us from water. To perform.

Back in 2003, RUDOLF GROUP borrowed from Mother Nature the idea of dendrimers (from dendron, Greek word for ‘tree’), molecules made of multi-functional branches that interact among themselves, co-crystallize, and self-organize into highly ordered, multicomponent systems. These hyper-branched polymers attach to the textile and embed fluorine-free, durable water-repellent performance.
In 2021 BIONIC-FINISH®ECO comes as a reviewed and extended family of unique nonhalogenated, APEO-free, fluorine-free formulations suited for different materials and designed for different applications and needs. Still very much based on patented dendrimer technology, the new and strengthened BIONIC-FINISH®ECO’s product portfolio:

• Provides non-fluorinated and highly durable water repellent textile finishes for high-performance, professional applications (e.g. when brushing resistance is required);
• Delivers highly efficient and durable performance with low application amounts thus not affecting fabric feel and appearance (e.g. when remarkable softness is important);
• Fulfills a range of challenging technical requirements (e.g. minimal impact on flame retardant properties of technical fibers);
• Is suitable for both sportswear and outdoor applications, as well as for casual apparel and fashion clothing;
• Is bluesign® approved, ZDHC chemical gateway certified and compliant with most RSLs;

BIONIC-FINISH®ECO new portfolio includes universal and versatile solutions targeting the most standard requirements, as well as customized solutions that meet more demanding and specific expectations such as improved resistance to dry-cleaning. “None of us can entirely predict where our voyage will lead” says Dr. Gunther Duschek, RUDOLF GROUP Managing Director. “However, BIONIC-FINISH®ECO of RUDOLF GROUP will always be the fluorine-free, durable water repellent for ultimate  performance. As it is today”.

• 100 % Recyclinggarn in Originalfaserqualität
• Ressourcen- und CO2-Einsparungen
• Wirtschaftlich und nachhaltig

Das langjährig bewährte Geogitter Fortrac T ist ab sofort auch in der ecoLine verfügbar. Der HUESKER Gruppe ist es gelungen, das Geogitter für die Bewehrung von Erdkonstruktionen aus 100 Prozent recycelten PET-Garnen herzustellen. Zuvor hatte das Unternehmen bereits erfolgreich einen weiteren Produktklassiker, die Asphaltbewehrung HaTelit C eco, ebenfalls aus PET-Recycling-Garnen, in der ecoLine eingeführt.

„Unsere Geogitter der ecoLine erfüllen dieselben hohen Qualitätsstandards wie das Ursprungsprodukt aus Originalfasern. Fortrac T eco wird aus hochmodulen Polyestergarnen hergestellt und hält Zugkräften bis 1.600 kN/m stand“, erklärt Sven Schröer, Geschäftsführer für die weltweiten Vertriebs- und Anwendungstechnikaktivitäten der HUESKER Gruppe im Bereich Geokunststoffe.

Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC), part of Barry-Wehmiller, has announced the launch of its ION digital conversion system.

This new flexible inkjet printing solution provides superior print quality for many platforms, including labels, folding cartons, flexible packaging and other specialty printing markets. With industry-leading 1600 by 1585 dpi native resolution, the system can print in various modes at speeds up to 668 feet per minute.

The ION digital conversion system is powered by Memjet’s DuraLink® technology. DuraLink combines long-life printheads, pigment ink and flexible modules that can be configured from 8.5-inch print widths up to 60 inches. DuraLink’s aqueous pigmented ink-set offers a durable, water and light-fast solution for a variety of digital print needs. With these features, PCMC can quickly and easily develop solutions for high-volume commercial, packaging and industrial printing markets.

The ION is a fully modular system and is available as a mono-color print-bar and full-color printing platform with expanded gamut printing.

“We are excited to add ION digital to our product portfolio,” said Rodney Pennings, PCMC’s Printing, Coating and Laminating Sales Director. “The combination of PCMC’s vast experience in flexographic printing with Memjet’s breakthrough inkjet technology results in a powerful solution for our customers in a variety of print and packaging markets.”

Flexibility, product uniformity and automation are the keys to success for coating businesses in today’s rapidly-changing technical textiles industry, explained Jürgen Hanel, Monforts Head of Technical Textiles, at the recent 1st World Congress on Textile Coating.

Introducing the latest Montex®Coat magnetic roller coating option to virtual delegates from around the world at the conference organised by International Newsletters, Hanel explained why this technology makes perfect sense now

“The magnetic roller system allows a wide range of coatings and finishes to be carried out, while being easy to handle for operators and much easier to clean at the end of the process,” he said. “It provides textile finishers with an expanded range of options due to the fully-adjustable positioning of the magnet within the roller and with four different magnet positions possible, can be set to operate both as a direct coating system and as an indirect coater.”

With traditional dip coating systems, he added, as well as with many standard knife coating technologies, there is always a difference in the tension between the centre and the edges of the wide width fabrics being treated – and hence the amount of pressure with which the coating is applied. With the use of a magnetic roller, equal pressure is applied across the full width of the fabric, with consistent results even at wide widths of over 2.4 metres. In addition, adjusting the roller surface, rather than changing the coating formulation to match the required add-on and viscosity for each coating effect required, leads to much higher output from the line.

Cleaner and less wasteful
The contribution of such flexible and resource-saving new technologies to a cleaner and less wasteful textile industry was a key theme at the congress – held virtually across the four afternoons of February 11th, 12th, 18th and 19th – as was digitalization and the many advantages it is providing.

“A typical integrated Monforts coating line is automated from the inlet feed to the winder,” Hanel told delegates. “Adjustments can also be made simply and easily from the touchscreen and with the new hand-held remote controller which has recently been introduced for the Montex®Coat unit.”

Manual adjustment, he added, is time consuming and needs the attention of an experienced operator or the reproducibility will not be accurate between coating operations. The adjustment by motors allows each coating to be stored and downloaded again for 100% reproducibility.

The motors can be fully controlled from the touchscreen and all necessary adjustments carried out remotely, making switching from one process to another extremely quick and easy.
The accuracy that is now being demanded by today’s most exacting customers is met with an optional carbon fibre roller – especially in dealing with the winding tension required in the processing of materials such as prepregs for composites and other heavyweight fabrics. Typical applications for the Montex®Coat include the finishing of tents and awnings, black-out roller blinds and sail cloth, automotive interior fabrics and medical disposables. Full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments can all be accommodated.

“The World Congress on Textile Coating was characterised by some very stimulating presentations and forums between the speakers and a global audience of textile specialists,” Jürgen Hanel concluded. “It truly reflected the high level of positive changes now taking place in not just textile coating, but the entire textile industry. I look forward to the next edition, which hopefully will be a face-to-face event for even deeper level discussions and debate.”

Sächsische Mittelständler kämpfen mit Innovation und Know-how im Bereich der FFP2-Masken gegen minderwertige Qualität aus Asien.

„Den Mittelständlern wurden von der Bundesregierung viele Millionen für die Entwicklung von textiler Schutzausrüstung in der Pandemie versprochen. Doch angekommen ist bei den Textilern in Sachsen bis jetzt nichts“, stellt Dr.-Ing. Jenz Otto, Hauptgeschäftsführer des Verbandes der Nord-Ostdeutschen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie e.V. (vti), enttäuscht fest. Während die deutschen Bürger in den Apotheken nach wie vor Masken aus China mit teilweise fragwürdigen Kennzeichnungen auf die Gutscheine der Bundesregierung erhielten, würden für die Qualitätsmasken „made in Germany“ internationale Vertriebswege aufgebaut.

Sächsische Textilunternehmen aus dem vti-Verbandsgebiet, die den Aufrufen der Regierung zur Produktion von Schutzausrüstung im Frühjahr 2020 mit Euphorie, viel Enthusiasmus, hohen Investitions- und Entwicklungskosten gefolgt sind und den Versprechungen vertraut haben, seien bei der Förderung leer ausgegangen.

Das weltweit agierende Unternehmen Norafin Industries (Germany) GmbH (Norafin) führt die Tradition der Textil- und Vliesstoffindustrie fort.
Als die Corona-Pandemie im Frühjahr 2020 in Deutschland ankam, entstand ein neuer Produktionszweig bei Norafin.

Der Vliesstoffspezialist Norafin fand sich mit dem Anlagenbauer XENON Automatisierungstechnik GmbH aus Dresden zusammen. Beide Unternehmen entwickelten eine High-Tech-Maskenproduktionsanlage, die zertifizierte FFP2-Masken vollautomatisiert, ohne manuelle Arbeitsschritte produziert. Ab Juni waren 20.000 Alltagsmasken „Nora LIGHT“ pro Woche mit der ersten Pilot-Anlage möglich. Mittlerweile ist bereits der Nachfolgetyp mit einer Kapazität von 250.000 Masken pro Woche in Betrieb.

Die zertifizierte FFP2 Maske „Nora F“ filtert mindestens 94 Prozent der Partikel und Aerosole größer als 0,6 μm. Damit minimiert sie für den Träger und sein Gegenüber das Corona-Infektionsrisiko im geforderten Standard.Die Maske besteht aus vier Schichten Spezialvliesstoff. Die Außenlage (100 Prozent PET) sorgt für Stabilität und eine erste Filterung von Staub, die doppelte Mittellage (100 Prozent Polypropylen) sichert die Filtration der Aerosole ab und die Innenlage (ebenfalls 100 Prozent PET) transportiert die Feuchtigkeit der Atemluft nach außen.

Diese Masken können auch in der industriellen Anwendung in rauen Arbeitsumgebungen für den sicheren Arbeitsschutz im Umgang mit Glasfasern, Metall, diversen Kunststoffen und Ölnebel sorgen.

Die nächste Innovationsstufe der „Nora F“ ist mit drei Schwerpunkten bereits fest geplant. Dabei stehen die Nachhaltigkeit mit recyclingfähigen und kompostierbaren Materialien, die antivirale und bakterielle Funktionalität sowie der Tragekomfort im Blickpunkt des Entwicklungsteams um Marc Jolly, Head of R&D und Johannes Loos, Business Unit Manager bei Norafin.

André Lang, Geschäftsführer von Norafin, und sein Team sind hochmotiviert an die Entwicklung und Herstellung der Masken gegangen, haben viele Zusatzschichten mit den XENON-Ingenieuren für die Maske „made in Saxony“ aufgebracht und jeweils hohe sechsstellige Summen investiert. Umso enttäuschter war das Team als der Ablehnungsbescheid für die Förderung der sächsischen Maskenproduktion vom Bundeswirtschaftsministerium einen Tag vor Weihnachten ankam.
Norafin geht daher jetzt auch eigene internationale Vertriebswege.

Dr.-Ing. Jenz Otto vom vti plant für die Unterstützung der Vertriebsaktivitäten der Unternehmen aus dem Verband auch in diesem Jahr wieder eine Präsentationsveranstaltung mit Anwendern textiler Gesundheits- und Schutzausrüstung am 28. September 2021 in Chemnitz.