From the Sector

• Oerlikon presents its expanded nonwovens product portfolio at the IDEA 2019 in Miami

Neumünster – Oerlikon presents its complete nonwoven plant portfolio for the production of airlaid, meltblown, spunbonded and hybrid materials at this year’s IDEA in Miami from 25–28 March. The focus of its presentation will be on solutions for hygiene, medical and other disposable nonwovens. Visitors to this year’s IDEA can inform themselves on the wide range of products at Oerlikon’s exhibition stand (no. 1724).

Two strong partnerships for disposable nonwovens

While two years ago the Nonwoven business unit of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment focused almost exclusively on solutions for technical applications, the company has now expanded its product portfolio to include solutions for disposable nonwovens by establishing strong partnerships.

Oerlikon & Teknoweb Materials – two strong partners for the nonwoven industry

As early as spring 2017, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers' Nonwoven business unit had entered into a strategic partnership with the Italian company Teknoweb Materials. Teknoweb Materials is an established technology supplier in the field of wipes and other disposable nonwovens. With its LEVRA technology, the company has its own patented, particularly efficient manufacturing process for wipes. It also has extensive process know-how on the making and further processing of these nonwoven materials. The Nonwoven business unit of Oerlikon’s Manmade Fibers segment completes this partnership with its well-established machine and plant solutions. Teknoweb Materials will also be represented at IDEA at the Oerlikon exhibition stand (no. 1724).

Cooperation with Shaoyang Textile Machinery

For spunmelt systems solutions for hygiene and medical applications, Oerlikon has been in cooperation with the Chinese machine and plant manufacturer Shaoyang Textile Machinery since Autumn of last year. The goal of these cooperation partners is to advance the international marketing of spunmelt plants outside of China. Oerlikon Manmade Fibers’ Nonwoven business unit contributes its plant engineering know-how and is responsible for product and process guarantees. Oerlikon also assumes the overall project responsibility as well as world-wide customer service outside of China. In return, Shaoyang, with its headquarters in the city of the same name in the Hunan province, supplies the plant technologies.The advantage for the customer: competitive solutions at an attractive price level with comparatively low investments.

With portfolio expansion and future development of the industry in sight, the organisers of Texprocess India and Gartex India have entered into a strategic alliance to form a unified industry platform ‘Gartex Texprocess India’. The event will be part of Messe Frankfurt’s Texpertise Network leveraging on the group’s strong global network and expertise in the sector.
 
Leading in both apparel consumption and exports, India holds the second largest textile manufacturing capacity globally with the textile machinery sector witnessing a growth of 8-10 percent year on year. As the world's second largest exporter of textiles and clothing projected to reach USD 300 billion by 2024, Indian apparel manufacturers are moving towards increasing their manufacturing capacities and upgrading technology, giving rise to automation garmenting processes to enter the Indian market. Having made its debut in 2016, both Texprocess India and Gartex India received tremendous response from the industry with leading associations and companies in the garment and textile machinery sector coming forward to support the shows.
 
At the internationally renowned Texprocess, exhibitors from around the world converge to present the latest machines, plants, processes and services for the manufacture of garments and textile and flexible materials. While Texprocess India was launched as a pavilion to create an innovation platform for garment-manufacturing and textile processing at Techtextil India tradeshow in Mumbai, Gartex India exhibition was held annually in New Delhi and has grown wider in scope covering not just garment and textile manufacturing value chain but has also added segments like innerwear manufacturing zone, Laundry & Denim show along the way in addition to digital textile printing, embroidery and other existing verticals. With the merger of the two strong textile trade fair brands, the organisers, Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and MEX Exhibitions, aspire to work in collaboration for India’s textile industry development, facilitating global sourcing and networking in the textile value chains.

TINTEX Textiles presents new exemplary concepts based on a continuous textile research for responsible, ethical-minded fashions. It is born out of heritage and passion to use only good materials and the finest finishing techniques for better textiles in the best spirit of its unique Portuguese culture.

The new S/S 2020 collection starts from the concept of “UNO”: a full Naturally Advanced offer that is gathered together under one emblematic cultural standard, one that refers to unity as a result of the revolutionary generation in a society that embraces uniqueness and differentiation. UNO stands for unification, cross-fertilization, inclusion, just like an orchestra playing in concert with the same purpose. It is the perfect chance to discover a range of unique developments that truly embody the company’s identity, balancing responsible innovation and creativity. Smart ingredients take the lead being enhanced by the TINTEX unique dyeing and finishing expertise.

Starting from the “UNO is…embrace yourself” concept, a unique range of natural fibres are blended with technical qualities for new levels of wellbeing performance. Shirt structures, timeless jerseys and interlocks are born from the transformed polyamide Q-NOVA® by Fulgar with excellent moisture control, and from SeaCell™, that embodies the unique properties of seaweed combined with the unique ROICA™ CF (Clean Fit), a unique odor neutralizing premium stretch yarn by Asahi Kasei.

Am Gemeinschaftsstand des Aachener Zentrums für integrativen Leichtbau (AZL) in Halle 5A Stand D17 demonstriert das Institut für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen University (ITA) vom 12.-14. März 2019 in Paris seine Kompetenzen in den Bereichen Glasfasern, Preforms und Carbon Composites.
Die Exponate stammen aus unterschiedlichen Anwendungsfeldern und adressieren die Branchen Automotive, Luft- und Raumfahrt und Maschinenbau.

1. Innovative Glasfaserforschung am ITA
   Der modulare Aufbau der neu entwickelten, induktiv beheizten Glasfaserproduktionsanlage ermöglicht hohe Flexibilität in der Forschung und das Induktionssystem eine deutlich schnellere Bedienbarkeit. Erstmalig werden am Stand des ITA Glasfasern live auf der JEC World hergestellt. Zu den Neuheiten der Anlage gehört das induktiv beheizte Bushing. Es hat ein flexibles Design und besteht aus einer Platin-/Rhodium-Legierung (Pt/Rh20) zum Einsatz für Hochtemperaturgläser. Die Glasfaserproduktionsanlage wurde so konstruiert, dass sich neue Konzepte und Ideen schnell erproben lassen.
    
2. DrapeCube – Umformung textiler Halbzeuge
   Der DrapeCube bietet eine kostengünstige Konstruktion zur Herstellung von Faservorformlingen aus textilen Halbzeugen. Er kommt zum Tragen bei der Fertigung von Preforms für Prototypen und in der Kleinserie und eignet sich für Unternehmen, die in der von faserverstärkten Kunststoffen (FVK) tätig sind.
   Bei der Produktion von FVK-Bauteilen wird im Preformingprozess ein Großteil der späteren Bauteilkosten definiert. In kleinen und mittelständischen Unternehmen wird dieser Prozessschritt oft noch manuell ausgeführt. Daraus resultieren hohe Qualitätsschwankungen und Bauteilpreise. Besonders bei hochbelasteten Strukturbauteilen führt die Qualitätsschwankung dazu, dass die Bauteile überdimensioniert sind. So wird das Leichtbaupotential von faserverstärkten Kunststoffen zu wenig genutzt.
   Eine Lösung bietet das aus der blechumformende Industrie adaptierte Stempelumformverfahren zur Formgebung von Verstärkungstextilien. Dabei wird das Textil zwischen zwei Formhälften (Patrize und Matrize) eingelegt und automatisiert umgeformt. Dieses Verfahren kommt aufgrund hoher Anlagen- und Werkzeugkosten fast ausschließlich in der Großserie zum Einsatz. Das ITA hat die Formgebungsstation DrapeCube entwickelt, die eine kostengünstige Alternative bietet und in der Lage ist, den aktuellen Stand der Technik für die Formgebung textiler Halbzeige vollständig abzubilden. Am Stand werden die Prozessschritte in einem Video demonstriert.
    
3. Kohlenstoffaserverstärkter Kunststoff (CFK)-Preform
   Der CFK-Preform besteht aus Carbon-Multiaxial-Gelege, das durch expandiertes Polystyrol (EPS) umgeformt ist, um die Drapierqualität zu optimieren. Durch die schonende, textilgerechte Umformung mittels Schaumexpansion können Preforms in erhöhter Qualität hergestellt werden. Erstmalig wurde die Schaumexpansion genutzt, um Preforms so umzuformen, dass die Drapierqualität im Vergleich zur klassischen Stempelumformung verbessert wird.
   Die Vorteile des so umgeformten CFK-Preforms liegen in der Einsparung von Anlagenkosten, da das Investment viel geringer ist. Dazu wird der Verschnittanteil reduziert, weil eine endkonturnahe Fertigung ermöglicht wird. Darüber hinaus wird der Ausschuß verringert, da weniger Fehler im Textil entstehen.
   Zielgruppe sind die Hersteller von faserverstärkten Bauteilen, insbesondere für die Klein- und Mittelserie, bei denen die klassische Stempelumformung nicht wirtschaftlich ist.
    
4. Gestickter Preform mit integriertem Metallinsert
   Die 12k Carbonfaserrovings werden durch das Spezial-Stickverfahren Tailored Fibre Placement (TFP) zu einem Preform abgelegt. Beim weiteren Lagenaufbau wird der Insert nicht nur unter den Rovinglagen integriert, sondern durch zusätzliches Umschlaufen fixiert. Der hochintegrative Preformingansatz bietet die Möglichkeit zur Reduktion von Gewicht und Prozessschritten sowie zur Steigerung der mechanischen Performance.
   Bisher wurden Inserts geklebt oder es waren Bohrungen im Bauteil notwendig. Aufgeklebte Inserts sind durch die Klebefläche limitiert. Das Einkleben von Inserts in Bohrungen zieht hohe Bohrerabrasion und damit hohen Werkzeugverschleiß nach sich.
   Die Vorteile des gestickten Preforms mit integriertem Metallinsert bestehen in der Reduktion von Verschnitt durch TFP-Preforming und der Steigerung der spezifischen Ausreißkraft. Dazu besteht die Möglichkeit, die Herstellung integrativer Preforms zu automatisieren. Damit ist der Preform mit integriertem Metallinsert interessant für die Zielgruppe Automotive und Luft- und Raumfahrt.

Kornit Digital Ltd. (NASDAQ: KRNT), a company that develops, designs and markets innovative digital printing solutions for the global printed textile industry, today announced it has received an order from DTG2Go, a Delta Apparel, Inc (NYSE American: DLA) company and leader in the direct-to-garment printing and fulfillment marketplace.  
 
The order follows several months of beta-testing of the recently released Kornit Atlas system by DTG2Go, during which Kornit was able to showcase the enhanced features of the most advanced industrial direct-to-garment solution available on the market.  Key features of the Atlas include high volume throughput, attractive cost of ownership and featuring the new NeoPigment™ Eco-Rapid inkset specifically designed for sustainability and retail-quality digital textile printing. Per the agreement, DTG2Go will take delivery of 10 Atlas systems in 2019, along with a significant number of HD upgrades for DTG2Go’s existing Kornit Avalanche systems.  
 
Kornit’s Chief Executive Officer, Ronen Samuel commented, “We are honored to expand our partnership with Delta Apparel as a key technology supplier as they expand their reach with digital printing. Delta’s unique platform strikes at the core of the changing needs in the retail supply chain, by offering a vertically-integrated digital print fulfillment model with quick delivery at an affordable price. The inclusion of the Atlas will greatly enhance the options and capabilities that Delta will be able to offer its customers. The all-new industrial Atlas has leading-edge technology with annual production capacity of over 350,000 impressions and optimizes production efficiency at the best cost of ownership available. We look forward to working collaboratively with Delta to deliver on this order and expand on this important relationship.

Gianluca Croci's priority will be to support Lectra's French customers in their transformation towards Industry 4.0
Lectra announces the appointment of Gianluca Croci as Managing Director, Lectra France. Based in Paris, Gianluca Croci reports to Fabio Canali, President, Southern Europe & North Africa.

Gianluca Croci has more than 20 years of experience in the fashion industry. He began his career in 1998 in the department store chain La Rinascente before joining the Giorgio Armani group in 2002, where he managed, from 2006 to 2015, the Belgian and French subsidiaries. Gianluca Croci later held management positions for major fashion and luxury brands, such as Roberto Cavalli and Marcolin, and was recently the Sales & Marketing Director for Technogym France, a designer of sports equipment.

Gianluca Croci will fulfil Lectra's promise to fashion companies in France: to facilitate the digitalization of their know-how in order to empower them to make a successful transition to Industry 4.0. This ambition is being realized by the 2018 launch of the revolutionary solution, Fashion On Demand by Lectra, which enables fashion companies to customize a garment or make it to measure. This end-to-end personalization offer—the first of its kind—complements a portfolio that is known to solve the pressing challenges confronting the fashion industry. The latest, Kubix Link, developed by Kubix Lab, a start-up acquired by Lectra in January 2018, is an innovative platform for managing product information.

"France is known worldwide for being a leader in fashion and technological innovation. It is a country where brands, retailers and manufacturers have already begun their transformation towards Industry 4.0. I am proud to support our customers’ pursuit of greater connectivity and collaboration in their operations, as well as in assisting them to make the shift to personalization," says Gianluca Croci.
Gianluca Croci and his teams are committed to providing their French customers with the high level of expertise and service that characterizes Lectra's value proposition.
Gianluca Croci's efforts are also tied to the dynamic activities of Lectra Southern Europe & North Africa. There are many synergies in the region’s fashion industry, ranging from the sharing of expertise between French and Italian companies to the integration into their ecosystem of the Moroccan and Tunisian subcontractors.

"Our regional organization enables us to be closer to our customers’ challenges and to provide them with the support they need to achieve their ongoing targets. Gianluca Croci will lead the French teams and contribute to the region's growth," says Fabio Canali. "His extensive experience with major Italian and French companies brings new energy to the development of Lectra France.”
Gianluca Croci is a graduate of the European Institute of Business Administration (INSEAD), Fontainebleau (France), and the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan (Italy).

Since 1931, Bemberg™ is a new material definition for responsible luxury. The one for cool exquisite comfort, whose smart heritage is born in a circular economy.

Made by Asahi Kasei, the company is the sole maker of this one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural material, with a unique and precious touch and feel.

Starting from September 2018, Asahi Kasei has launched the Bemberg™ brand in Europe, with an openness and positive approach that facilitates a stronger, more focused role in the market while supporting our partner’s strengths too.

Enhancing core values through a more refined product and process in order to support our partner’s mission to materially benefit the whole supply chain with beautiful products and a straight communication. This is the key motivation behind the launch of the Bemberg™ global brand, taking the next steps on a journey that redefines the future of contemporary luxury with this unique fiber.

This is the reason why manufacture is playing a key role in the global role out of the latest Bemberg™ innovations. Pioneering partner mills for apparel textiles featured at the booth include: A-GIRLS, Alberto Bardazzi, DEBS, Ekoten, Euromaglia, Fiveol Textil, Infinity, Ipeker, Jackytex, Lanificio Europa, Matias & Araujo, Sidonios Knitwear, SMI Tessuti, T.B.M. Group, Tessitura Uboldi Luigi, Texteam and Tintex Textiles. Key lining developments are presented by Brunello, Gi Tessil Foderami, Gianni Crespi Foderami Manifattura Pezzetti and Tessitura Marco Pastorelli.

Color Solutions International, a member of the DyStar® Group, has issued their COLOR ANALYSIS report for Autumn/Winter 2020.

The trend and color experts at CSI are delighted to bring you the sixth issue of the Color Analysis report. New for this season, the experts at Color Solutions International have delved deeper by giving more detail for each color using their proprietary Relative Color Popularity process (RCP). RCP is a marriage of color validation with trend color forecasting. The RCP report has been organized into four categories to help validate your color selection.

In this issue, 54 ColorWall™ colors are featured along with additional color validation, color evolution, and direction by hue. "This season’s Color Analysis for Autumn/Winter 2020 found its inspiration in our heritage and reconnection of our roots. We look from the past to present day reality to shape the themes of trends reflected in the spirit of time we are living in. From a time gone by to this moment of now, themes take shape as they transform historic elements into modern day life, intertwining together to create a new existence full of creative energy and vitality.

Reminiscent of a time gone by, all that we consider heritage to be, has developed into a level of loyalty and trust over time. The quality in make and the care that goes into construction found in the ideas of heritage goods begin to resurface into a lifestyle of quality over quantity. In the present and future looking forward, we also continue to explore innovative lifestyle trends as we are becoming more conscious about the environment and the impact our choices have.

China is the world's largest producer and exporter of nonwoven fabrics, as well as having the largest consumer market for products made from nonwovens, making the upcoming biennial China International Nonwovens Expo & Forum (CINE – supported by Techtextil) the place to be for industry players from 3 – 5 June. This year’s event will relocate to a different venue, the Shanghai Convention & Exhibition Center of International Sourcing, located conveniently between Hongqiao airport and downtown Shanghai.

“The nonwovens market has been one of the fastest growing sectors of the Chinese textile industry over the last decade, and we expect this to continue in the coming years,” Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of the fair’s co-organiser, Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, commented. “The demographic changes, evolution of the manufacturing sector and greater awareness of environmental protection that have driven growth in China, among other factors, are also evident in a number of markets in the region, particularly Southeast Asia, so we anticipate production growth will remain strong to meet export demand, even if the Chinese economy slows further.”

Reports by the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA), the Freedonia Group and Smithers Pira support this. Nonwovens output in China grew year-on-year by 9.67% for the first 11 months of 2018, exceeding the corresponding figure for 2017 of 8.71%, while demand for nonwovens is predicted to reach 4.9 million metric tons in 2022, a 6.9% per year increase over this period.

Turning to the region, in 2015 Asia occupied 43.1% of the global nonwovens market – with China alone accounting for more than half of the share – with this figure expected to increase to 47.1% in 2020. The Freedonia report also notes that healthy growth in markets nearby to China such as India, Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines and Vietnam will also fuel nonwovens output in the country to meet export demand.

Globally, nonwovens demand is expected to increase 4.4% per year to 12.2 million metric tons in 2022, with developing regions being the main driver of this, in particular within Asia-Pacific. In the PP nonwovens sector, output is predicted to nearly double between 2013 and 2020, with the major drivers of this growth being baby diaper, adult incontinence and feminine hygiene products. In the durable nonwovens sector, annual growth of 6 to 7% for the period 2017 – 2023 is also anticipated for filtration, engineering construction and packaging uses.

The international home textiles industry has enjoyed a promising start at Heimtextil in Frankfurt am Main, which finished Friday, 11 January. The challenging economic situation and uncertainty in the retail sector were countered by a positive and confident mood at the world’s leading trade fair.

3025 exhibitors from 65 countries* took the international trade fair for home and contract textiles to a 15-year high: ‘Exhibitors and visitors accepted the new trade fair concept with great enthusiasm and confirmed the trade fair’s position as the world’s most important meeting place for the industry. The quality of the decision-makers impressed the exhibitors, as did the number of new business contacts from 156 countries, especially international ones – thus enabling Heimtextil to set a new benchmark’, says Detlef Braun, Member of the Board of Management of Messe Frankfurt. ‘Around 67,500 visitors* ensured that there was a busy atmosphere in the halls, despite a slight decline due to various reasons, such as difficult travel conditions on account of the storms in the alpine region and airport strikes in Germany’. [*For comparison, 2018: 2,975 exhibitors from 64 countries; 68,584 visitors from 135 countries, FKM-tested)]

3025 exhibitors from 65 countries* took the international trade fair for home and contract textiles to a 15-year high: ‘Exhibitors and visitors accepted the new trade fair concept with great enthusiasm and confirmed the trade fair’s position as the world’s most important meeting place for the industry. The quality of the decision-makers impressed the exhibitors, as did the number of new business contacts from 156 countries, especially international ones – thus enabling Heimtextil to set a new benchmark’, says Detlef Braun, Member of the Board of Management of Messe Frankfurt. ‘Around 67,500 visitors* ensured that there was a busy atmosphere in the halls, despite a slight decline due to various reasons, such as difficult travel conditions on account of the storms in the alpine region and airport strikes in Germany’.

One topic that occupied both exhibitors and visitors was the current and future economic situation. A further challenge is the increasingly evident changes that are happening in trade. Increasing revenues and revenue shares in online retailing stand in the way of the efforts made by the stationary retail trade to maintain their inner-city businesses. ‘The small business specialist trade, but also department stores and multibrand stores, and thus the heart of our visitor target groups, are under pressure from the constantly increasing levels of e-commerce. With Heimtextil and our consumer goods fairs in general, we offer these retailers in particular clear perspectives and diverse inspiration in an ambiguous world’, continues Braun.

Heimtextil made it easier for its visitors to access valuable inspiration and business momentum thanks to an optimised trade fair concept and the associated new hall structure. ‘The new concept brought more visitors to the stand’, was the feedback from Andreas Klenk, Managing Director of Saum & Viebahn from Kulmbach in Franconia about hall 8.0 which offered textiles editeurs and manufacturers of curtain and sun protection systems a common platform for the first time. ‘It was the right decision to merge the different segments. We had high quality discussions with respect to both export and domestic business, and are satisfied with the trade fair’.

As part of the new concept, Heimtextil expanded its unique product range across the entire exhibition site and also included the new hall 12, which has been an additional architectural highlight on the Frankfurt exhibition grounds since September.

Top international companies from the Bed & Bath Fashion segment presented their wares here. For the company Curt Bauer from Aue in Saxony, the première of the new hall was a successful one. ‘We're very enthusiastic about the new hall 12. The product range there was very well received. We are very satisfied with the quality of visitors to our stand. In addition to a good frequency of German visitors, we are particularly pleased about growth from China and Russia’, says Managing Director Michael Bauer.

Natural materials, PET and ocean plastics 
Heimtextil set a standard in terms of sustainability: after the first global climate protection agreement for the textile industry was signed by 40 leading fashion companies, organisations and associations at the World Climate Conference in Katowice last December, the focus in Frankfurt was also on environmental progress in the textile industry. Numerous exhibitors presented progressive solutions, for example in the recycling of PET bottles and ocean plastic as well as in the use of certified natural materials. ‘Sustainability was the theme for us at this year’s Heimtextil. Major media players visited us and the 'Green Tour’ guided tour stopped by. We presented many things, including our first vegan duvet and fair silk products, all 100 per cent produced in Austria’, says Denise Hartmann, Marketing Manager at Hefel Textil. The topics of water consumption in the textile industry and microplastics also increasingly came to the fore. The exhibitor directory ‘Green Directory’ alone contained around 150 progressive companies listing sustainably produced textiles. The offer was supplemented by its own lecture series as well as theme-specific tours, which provided valuable impetus and
underpinned the pioneering green position of the trade fair.

Sleep becomes new lifestyle theme
Heimtextil also focused on sleep as one of the upcoming lifestyle trends. While a balanced diet and sufficient exercise are now a natural part of a healthy lifestyle, restorative sleep is still neglected* although it is one of the most important building blocks for long-term physical and mental well-being. At Heimtextil, a number of new products and aspects came to the fore that help people become sensitised to and analyse their sleep behaviour and promote healthy sleep. Around the redesigned hall 11.0 and in the adjoining lecture area ‘Sleep! The Future Forum’, representatives from the national and international bed industry enjoyed attractive product presentations and superb speeches on the topics of sustainability, hospitality, sport and digital.

In addition to the renowned trend show, the trade fair also focused on contract business, particularly in the hotel and hospitality sector, as well as decorative and upholstery fabrics, digital printing solutions and wallpapers.

The next Heimtextil in Frankfurt am Main – its 50th edition – will take place from 7 to 10 January 2020.

*According to a forsa investigation commissioned by the Techniker Krankenkasse