From the Sector

Penn Textile Solutions GmbH is one of the world's leading manufacturers of elastic fabrics for under-wear, corsetry, sportswear and swimwear, as well as highly functional textiles for technical applications. The fully integrated company with its own warping, circular knitting, warp knitting, dyeing and finishing facilities currently employs around 150 people.

Penn has long relied on Mahlo
Penn has relied on the cooperation with Mahlo for years. The manufacturer of measuring, control and automation systems for web-shaped goods has decades of experience in the field of process control. Until the summer of 2020, the textile manufacturer had been using a basis weight measurement system in the stenter frame outlet with beta radiation and manual control. "When the krypton preparations had passed their half-life, we had to make a decision: Exchange or replace the system right away", says operations manager Franz Schütte. They sat down with Mahlo representatives and looked for the best solution. Since the systems had already reached a high operating age and the measurement was limited to the basis weight, a new concept was decided upon. "Mahlo made us the best price-performance offer." The new system should be even more efficient and easier to operate for the special makes..

The compression zones of the functional fabric create corresponding distortions within the textile surface in its raw state, which have to be smoothed out in the fixing process. This work is now taken over by a process control system. The Mahlo Famacont PMC-15 with two measuring points automatically controls the leading of the stenter frame by continuously and contactlessly determining the mesh density. In addition, the Patcontrol PCS-20 process control system ensures that the dimensions of the different zones are recorded and also automatically controlled. "The previous beta-radiation facility was not able to collect this kind of data," explains the Penn operations manager. Another important aspect for the textile manufacturer: the complete and costly radiation protection is no longer necessary with the new systems.

Despite very good experience with Mahlo in the past, every change naturally involves a risk. Penn did not have to rely on theoretical considerations, however, but carried out tests in advance with appropriate sample material in the Mahlo test laboratory. The results convinced the decision-makers.

Members of TMAS – the Swedish textile machinery association – are proving instrumental in pioneering new sustainable processes for the dyeing, finishing and decoration of textiles.

The wasteful processes involved in these manufacturing stages are only one component in the development of viable circular supply chains for textiles that are now being established in Sweden.

At the recent Conference on Sustainable Finishing of Textiles, held across three separate afternoons on September 30^th, October 1^st and October 7^th, delegates heard that Sweden will introduce extended producer responsibility (EPR) for waste textiles and clothing at the beginning of 2022, ahead of the adoption of a similar European Union-wide EPR system in 2025.

New fibers
Swedish companies are also active in the development of new fibers derived from waste clothing, building on the country’s legacy leadership in pulp and paper production.

At the Sustainable Finishing of Textiles Conference, however, it was said that all of the environmental gains made by such sustainable new fibers can potentially be cancelled out in the further processing they are subjected to – and especially in resource-intensive conventional dyeing, finishing and decoration.

TMAS members Baldwin Technology and Coloreel have both developed solutions to address this issue.

TexCoat G4
During the conference, Baldwin’s VP of Global Business Development Rick Stanford explained that his company’s TexCoat G4 non-contact spray technology significantly reduces water, chemistry and energy consumption in the finishing process. It consistently and uniformly sprays chemistry across a fabric surface and applies it only where needed, on one or both sides.

Instant coloring
Coloreel’s CEO Mattias Nordin outlined the benefits of his company’s technology which enables the high-quality and instant coloring of a textile thread on-demand and can be paired with any existing embroidery machine without modification. This enables unique effects like shades and gradient to be achieved in an embroidery for the first time.

• Order intake of CHF 698.6 million in third quarter 2021
• Order intake of CHF 1 673.9 million after nine months
• Acquisition of the three Saurer businesses on schedule
• Credit lines renewed early
• Outlook 2021

The positive market dynamics, which Rieter has already reported on several occasions, continued in the third quarter of the current year. Rieter recorded an order intake of CHF 698.6 million in the third quarter of 2021 (2020: CHF 174.4 million).

The order intake of CHF 1 673.9 million after nine months corresponds to an increase of 294% compared to the prior year period (2020: CHF 425.1 million).
 
The market development is broadly supported at the global level and is based on a catch-up effect from 2019 and 2020 in combination with a regional shift in demand. Rieter believes that a major reason for this regional shift in demand is the development of costs in China. This is leading to increased investments outside the Chinese market. The orders came primarily from Turkey, Latin America, India, Pakistan and China. Overall, Rieter is benefitting from its innovative product range and the global positioning of the company.

The Business Group Machines & Systems achieved an order intake totaling CHF 1 281.6 million in the first nine months of 2021 (+447%).*

In the first nine months of 2021, the Business Group Components recorded an increase of 95% to CHF 227.0 million, while the Business Group After Sales posted an order intake of CHF 165.3 million, an increase of 123% compared to the prior year period.*

Acquisition of the three Saurer businesses on schedule
The acquisition of the three businesses from Saurer, which Rieter announced on August 16, 2021, is proceeding according to plan. The incoming orders for these businesses are not taken into account in this trading update.
 
Credit lines renewed early
The Rieter Group arranged the early renewal of the existing committed credit lines (five-year term, totaling CHF 250 million).
 
Outlook 2021*
The first nine months of 2021 were characterized by a rapid market recovery combined with a regional shift in demand. Rieter expects the demand for new systems to gradually return to normal in the coming months.  
 
For the full year 2021, Rieter anticipates sales of around CHF 900 million.

* See attached document for more information.

Digital printing is gaining in importance and increasingly relegating conventional printing methods to the bench. In the new episode of the Blue Couch Series, Sappi and the Durst Group, two seasoned industry leaders, explain what is behind the success of this printing method and which markets offer the greatest future potential for digital printing.

The new challenges manufacturers are currently facing include a growing demand for faster production and delivery, an ever-increasing variety of products, small production volumes and the trend towards more personalised campaigns.

In the latest episode of the Blue Couch Series, Andrea Riccardi, Head of Product Management at Durst, as well as Paola Tiso, Sappi’s Head of Sales Digital Solutions, and Luis Mata, Sales Director Packaging & Digital Solutions, will be talking about how digital printing can meet market demands for timely production with shorter runs and high flexibility, while reducing production costs through changed production processes.

One focus will be on the growing market for corrugated boards. Viewers will learn how the exponential growth of e-commerce and the growing pressure for more sustainable solutions are fuelling innovations for the digitalisation of packaging. The other main topic, digital dye sublimation printing, also offers a wide range of benefits to manufacturers in the interior design, decoration, visual communication, sports and fashion sectors and supports the industry's requirements to produce more sustainably.  

The “Digital Printing – far more than just a printing process” episode will air on 2 November at 10am (CET) at: www.sappi-bluecouch.com.

Hexcel has collaborated with HP Composites S.p.A (HP Composites), a world leader in the production of carbon fiber components for automotive and motorsports, to develop carbon fiber Class A body panels. Hexcel HexPly® XF surfacing technology is being extensively used by the Italian component producer to manufacture external body panels and other components for supercars such as Alfa Romeo’s stunning new supersport sedans, the Giulia GTA, and GTAm.

With five production plants in Italy, HP Composites has built an impressive track record of high-performance composite successes on both road and racetrack. HP has combined this processing expertise with Hexcel HexPly® XF3 surfacing material, HexPly® M47, and HexPly® M49 prepregs, working to the highest standards set by the most prestigious supercar OEMs and leading motorsport teams.

Hexcel’s automotive composites portfolio is the result of decades of industry experience and the creation of strategic partnerships to develop and optimize leading-edge technologies. HexPly XF3 is an epoxy prepreg surface material, developed with processing input from the HP Composites team to address the challenges of producing high-quality Class A automotive body panel surfaces with excellent resistance to aging tests.

Applied as the first ply in the mold and after curing at 120-180˚C in an autoclave, HexPly XF3 produces a smooth part surface with no porosity, that requires minimal preparation for painting.

HexPly XF3 is supplied in an easy-to-handle roll format with good tack and drapability. After curing, it can be easily prepared for painting with a rapid sanding process. HP Composites has incorporated automated robotic sanding techniques for this finishing stage with the paint-ready HexPly XF3 surface providing excellent paint adhesion according to EN ISO 2409.

HP Composites typically uses autoclave processing for HexPly XF3 parts, maximizing weight savings and structural performance of the final components. In addition, HP has also developed its own proprietary press and compression molding processes, including Air Press Moulding® technology, compatible with HexPly XF3 and other HexPly prepregs for higher volume production series that require increased production rates.

“Our long-term experience has given us a detailed understanding of the critical features that influence how prepregs and surfacing technologies interact with different production processes,” said Abramo Levato, General Manager, HP Composites S.p.A. “The relationship we have with Hexcel is both highly technical and highly supportive. As a result we have a complete material package for high-quality Class A body panels that are formulated specifically with our requirements in mind.”

“Combining the expertise of HP with a strong technical interaction and collaborative dialogue, Hexcel and HP were together able to develop the optimum HexPly XF surfacing technology,” said Claude Despierres, VP Sales and Marketing, Hexcel. “With HexPly XF3 we satisfy the toughest industry standards.”

• Kornit Digital and threeASFOUR Give Shape to the Future of Fashion and Technology with the KUNDALINI Collection at New York Fashion Week
• Event will showcase how fashion technology transforms creativity and expression, and eliminates wasteful overproduction prominent in the fashion industry

Kornit Digital Ltd. (NASDAQ: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile production technologies, announced today a collaboration with fashion designers threeASFOUR. The new collection, KUNDALINI, premiered today during New York Fashion Week, demonstrating exceptional capabilities for designers in the fashion industry to express brilliance, creativity, and extraordinary quality by using Kornit’s sustainable, on-demand fashion production technologies.

Founded in 2005, threeASFOUR has built a legacy of fusing cutting-edge technology with traditional craftsmanship to create pieces that are both fashion and art. The intricate designs in the KUNDALINI collection unlock the full value of Kornit’s innovative and cutting-edge technology and showcase the power of the digital-first approach for fashion. The entire collection was produced using Kornit’s revolutionary MAX technology, which offers never-before-seen digital decoration and design capabilities.

Working closely with Kornit, threeASFOUR was able to maintain complete design freedom in accordance with their vision, while producing quickly and significantly eliminating waste. Using Kornit technologies enabled their designers to shrink design cycles to mere days—or even hours in some cases—which is inconceivable in the traditional ways of producing fashion.

“Collaborating with top global designers like threeASFOUR demonstrates that fashion production can be cleaner and more sustainable, while also being efficient and more responsive to inspiration and creativity,” said Ronen Samuel, Kornit Digital Chief Executive Officer. “Following the massive success of Tel Aviv Fashion Week, we are now creating exhibits and partnerships in New York, Los Angeles, London—and other global fashion hubs that need to adopt eco-conscious digital means of production. This collaboration with threeASFOUR is another step on our journey to become the operating system for on-demand sustainable, proximity fashion.”

“We’ve built our brand on pushing boundaries, advancing social progress, and uniting fashion with nature and with self, while experimenting with technological innovations,” said Adi Gil, Creative Director at threeASFOUR. “Our vision for more sustainable and meaningful fashion unites us with Kornit Digital, whose technologies seem to have been designed from the ground up to help us achieve our goals. We’re excited about the infinite design freedom that Kornit on-demand production solutions offer the fashion industry, and how it could help grow our brand and raise our profile and accessibility in the marketplace.”
Kornit Digital’s on-demand production ecosystem uses considerably less water and energy and generates far less greenhouse gas emissions relative to traditional analog production processes. As the cornerstone of an efficient micro-factory production model, Kornit’s technology uses safe and sustainable consumables to enable proximity production, eliminating the logistical waste, vulnerability, and time to market associated with multinational supply chains.

The Swiss group presents three creative inspirations to explore new shapes, colors, materials and define a new offer featuring a variety of solutions and ideas.
A tribute to health and to balance with nature, to the advanced goldsmith craftsmanship and to the effortless sophistication of industrial luxury: the FW 2022-23 collection by Riri Group is a true kaleidoscope of shapes, colors and materials, where three different creative inspirations meet – Biophilic, Stones&Gold and Industrial Luxe – for a high-end line of accessories.

All three paths are the result of state-of-the-art techniques, of an R&D effort and of the renowned expertise of the Swiss group. Part of the offer is also a selection of pieces by Cobrax Metal Hub, among which stand out buckles and locks with peculiar shapes and finishing.

Looking to the new season with a positive and enthusiastic attitude, the Group continues to work towards an increasing sustainability when it comes to products and processes. The collection, in fact, is a further step toward Riri’s path of green responsibility that the company has taken to bring actual improvement in its sustainable performance. This year, Riri Group published its first Sustainability Report, calculated in compliance with Global Reporting Initiative Standard (GRI), and adopted recycled polyester as production standard for zips’ tapes.

Biophilic
A way to honor love for life, this line emphasizes the importance of physical and mental wellbeing, answering the questions raised during the challenges faced in the last year. Balance with nature becomes a concrete product circularity operation resorting to manufacturing processes with a low environmental impact and to organic and biodegradable materials. Among them stands out recycled polyester for zips which is Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified, Global Organic Textile Standard certified organic cotton and other alternative fibers, such as nettle, a natural resource that is a great alternative to synthetic fibers. Rivets, zips, buttons and metal components are made of stainless steel, which guarantees durability and resistance, 100% recycled copper and aluminum – light, ductile and resistant to oxidation. Among the most interesting solutions are rice peel powder – used on buttons’ overseals – and eco-sustainable thermoplastic polyurethane, obtained from renewable raw sources.

Stones & Gold
Sophistication and advanced craftsmanship mark the pieces of this creative path which, inspired by goldsmith and glyptic craft tradition, reveals a delicate sense of positivity and richness. Gems, lapis lazuli, marble, and mother-of-pearl are protagonists of a refined selection of accessories designed to amaze and catch the eye, resembling actual jewels. Essential the use of gold, especially in its liquid form: dominating zips and buttons’ finishes, this precious and versatile metal becomes a decorative feature on printed tape.

Industrial luxe
The third proposal embodies the unique style and timeless elegance that have always defined Riri’s products, embellishing them with new engineering details which makes them very relevant. The accessories come with golden and black finishes, both glossy and matt, and explore shapes developed to bring life to a range of luxury accessories with a sophisticated industrial aesthetics. A dominating role goes to stainless steel, along with a selection of impactful and elegant tapes which includes jacquard options, for a retro-futuristic look that is revealed also through the use of mechanical elements, such as screws and etched metal sheets, and in the clean and boxy shapes of pullers and buttons.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry announces “On-Demand” video access to presentations recorded from the 2021 World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference held July 12-15 in Atlanta.  The high-quality program content includes sessions on: sustainability, market and consumer trends, industry policies and regulations, flushable wipes, and innovations in substrates, preservatives, and packaging.  It also includes the product presentations and announcement of the World of Wipes Innovation Award®  and of the presentation of the INDA Lifetime Technical Achievement Award.  Each speaker’s presentation is approximately 30-minutes in length and includes Q & A’s recorded live following the session. The On-Demand WOW program content is available for purchase and viewing for 90 days by visiting https://www.pathlms.com/inda/courses.

Professionals interested in advancing their knowledge of the multi-billion dollar wipes market sector may purchase the entire program containing 31 speaker presentations, or select among nine individual sessions here or for more information visit https://www.inda.org

The 2022 edition of Cinte Techtextil China has been confirmed to take place from 6 – 8 September at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre. 2021 saw 366 exhibitors and 14,868 visits recorded at the June hybrid event, which offered in-person and digital options for suppliers and buyers.

This year’s edition of Cinte Techtextil China marked the first time the fair was held annually, and the second year physical and online participation options were available, with both aspects well received by exhibitors and visitors.

Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd elaborated: “The response from our exhibitors this year was the Chinese market is still growing strongly, and having an annual edition allows them to benefit from these opportunities on a more regular basis. The domestic economy has shown strong resilience over 2020 and so far in 2021, and this has allowed the technical textiles and nonwovens sector to maintain the growth momentum it has experienced over the past years. As more economies return to normal in 2022, we expect export orders for the sector to receive a further boost which will benefit those overseas companies with business in the Chinese market.”

Cinte Techtextil China’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span the full range of potential uses of modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also span the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions.

The Lenzing Group recorded a significantly improved development of its operating result in the first half of 2021. The preliminary EBITDA (earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization) more than doubled year-on-year to EUR 217.8 mn (compared to EUR 95.6 mn in the first half of 2020).

The currently positive environment is still characterized by a high level of uncertainty regarding the COVID-19 pandemic. Despite the continued limited visibility, the Managing Board of the Lenzing Group raises the outlook for the 2021 financial year.

Taking into account the above factors and due to the very positive development of the first half of the year, the Lenzing Group expects the EBITDA in 2021 to reach at least a level of EUR 360 mn.

The results of the Lenzing Group for the first half of 2021 will be published on Wednesday, August 04, 2021.