From the Sector

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an order from the Turkish insulation felt manufacturer Şiteks to supply a complete needlepunch line for its production plant in Tekirdag.

With this investment, Şiteks will expand its production capacity to meet the international demand for needlepunched nonwoven insulation products in the automotive and construction sectors. The line is scheduled to start up in the first quarter of 2025. This is the second line that Şiteks has purchased from ANDRITZ.

The ANDRITZ needlepunch eXcelle line for Şiteks can process different types of fibers, including natural fibers, and is specifically designed to meet the customer’s requirements in terms of productivity, quality, and sustainability.

Şiteks Şişmanlar Tekstil San. ve Tic. A.Ş, a member of the Hassan Group, is one of Europe’s largest manufacturers of thermal and acoustic insulation felts. Its products are used in a wide range of applications in the automotive, white goods, construction, and mattress and furniture industries.

Jeanologia has been honored with the title of 'Best Business Project' in the inaugural edition of the Spanish Fashion Academy Awards, aimed at recognizing and highlighting the key players in the Spanish fashion industry.

At a gala celebrating Spanish talent, Jeanologia emerged as a leading authority in sustainability and technology applied to fashion. The accolade from the Spanish Fashion Academy acknowledges Jeanologia's global vision and leadership, as well as its ability to catalyze positive change in the global fashion industry. Chosen from over 400 contenders and endorsed by the votes of 129 distinguished founding academics, the award reflects the recognition of Jeanologia's influence in the sector.

The award ceremony, held on Thursday, June 13, at Madrid's Teatro Fernán Gómez Centro Cultural de la Villa, attracted prominent figures from the Spanish fashion scene and marked a significant moment in Spanish fashion, paying homage to the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga, a pivotal figure who would have turned 129 in 2024.

Enrique Silla, CEO and founder of Jeanologia, accepted the award statuette, a design by Helena Rohner inspired by Balenciaga's iconic headdress.

Mayer & Cie. presented an overview of its current portfolio in the circular knitting sector at the ITM in Istanbul. Two machine types – the SF4 3.2 III and the Relanit 3.2 HS II – and various smart solutions that make circular knitting more efficient were on display. knithawk, a tool for the optical detection of knitting defects, met with interest among the visitors. The same was true for knitlink, Mayer & Cie's hub for digital solutions. Spare parts packages and conversion kits are also in demand for the long-term value retention of Mayer & Cie. machines.

Relanit 3.2 HS II
The Relanit 3.2 HS mechanical single jersey machine offers high productivity, especially in the context of elastic plating. It processes a wide range of yarns and qualities reliably. It is suitable for processing recycled yarns. Their energy consumption is up to a third lower than that of a circular knitting machine with conventional technology.

In Istanbul, Mayer & Cie. presented an updated version of its flagship, the Relanit 3.2 HS II. The new open-width take down is the single component that attracted the most interest. It ensures a uniform pull-off tension of the knitted fabric over its entire circumference. The knitted hose is only opened below the take-down rollers. Furthermore, the take-dwon is equipped with two drives: one for tensioning, one for rewinding. Both can be controlled separately.

Another innovation of the Relanit 3.2 HS is aimed at reducing downtimes: The needle with predetermined breaking point, which was developed together with Groz-Beckert, prevents it from breaking uncontrollably and, in the worst case, breaking needle butt. The new spring sinker is also a joint development with Groz-Beckert. This makes the Relanit 3.2 HS II run more smoothly, produce less noise as well as with less wear and tear.

SF4-3.2 III for lightweight three-tread fleece knitted fabrics
With its SF4-3.2 III, Mayer & Cie. is addressing a trend in the clothing industry that is reflected beyond Turkey: lightweight, elastic three-thread knitted fabrics in both pure cotton and blends.

New Control 5.0 machine control system
Both ITM machine exhibits were on display with the new Control 5.0 machine control system. Control 5.0 is a prerequisite for using knitlink, the hub for Mayer & Cie's digital applications. In this function, the machine control system attracted interest from various large customers.

In the standard SmartControl version, as shown in Istanbul, a so-called Smart Knob is attached to each machine foot. From there, all the functions that the machine operator needs for his work are available. More in-depth settings, such as those made by the knitting manager, are only possible from a mobile device. Any number of Mayer & Cie. machines can be operated from this at the same time.

knithawk
knithawk, a tool for optical defect detection, inspects the knitted fabric as it is produced. It sits in the single jersey machine directly at the knitting point. If knithawk detects a serious or recurring error, the machine is stopped. The tool also creates an error log.

Machine-specific upgrade and conversion kits
With its upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. brings technological innovations to existing machines. These range from machine-specific upgrades, such as the Performance Kit for existing Relanit 3.2 models to the Senso Blue RS lubrication system.

In addition to the upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. offers conversion kits for popular machine types. Two are currently available: for the MV4 3.2 II/MBF 3.2 and the S4-3.2 II/ SF4-3.2 III.

As part of the European Erasmus+ project AddTex, the partner organisations organised several hackathons at the universities of Boras (Sweden), UPC (Spain), PIN (Italy) and TUS (Ireland) in May. The aim is to connect students with real challenges in the industry and promote innovation in the areas of ecology, sustainability, digitalisation and design. The participants had received basic information in advance through the 45 training videos and training sessions of the free and public Smart, Digital and Green Skills Academy at https://addtex.eu.

The hackathon at the Italian university PIN (Polo Universitario Città di Prato) was organised and held together with the technical textiles department of the Industrieverband Veredlung - Garne - Gewebe - Technische Textilien e.V. (IVGT). Eight teams competed to develop innovative, sustainable ideas in just a few hours for the German family business Schmitz Textiles GmbH & Co. KG, Emsdetten. Schmitz Textiles, an expert in complete textile solutions for indoor and outdoor use for over 100 years, plans to offer exclusively sustainable products in the medium term and is looking for solutions to continuously increase the existing recycled share of yarns to 100 per cent.

Stefan Schmidt from IVGT presented the challenge via Teams Conference: "We are looking for a new business model for textile recycling at awning manufacturer Schmitz-Textiles in order to increase the existing proportion of recycled yarns and go beyond the exclusive use of recycled PET bottles. Schmitz Textiles has had an awning fabric made from 100% recycled polyester in its range since the end of 2023. The medium-term goal is to switch the entire range of awning fabrics to 100% recycled yarns. The company is looking for suitable solutions to achieve this.

In small teams, the 30 students specialising in eco-design, textiles/sales and textiles/technology developed proposals and presented them in five-minute online pitches. Ralf Bosse for Schmitz Textiles and Iris Schlomski for the IVGT acted as the jury and assessed the individual presentations in the categories of degree of innovation, presentation, industrial application potential and potential for commercial success. Each idea presented and each presentation scored more or less points in the individual categories. In the end, the points scored were added up to determine the winning team, which can further develop its idea together with the company. For Schmitz Textiles, these are Eleonora Boccherini, Ilaria Ioja, Giorgio Gacci and Marianna Butera.

Guangxi Baisheng Textile Co., Ltd. signed an agreement with Rieter to implement the world’s first complete spinning process using Rieter’s latest air-jet spinning technology J 70.

This move will enable the vertically integrated textile company based in Guangxi, China, to further ensure a steady yarn supply for its knitting operations. Rieter’s air-jet spinning machine J 70 features 200 individually automated spinning units that independently manage quality cuts and natural ends down quickly and efficiently. The J 70 also boasts delivery speeds of up to 600 meters per minute and supports up to four lots simultaneously. In addition, Rieter’s latest generation yarn clearer identifies weak yarn during production.

Fashion industry leaders, organizations, and government representatives came together for the 2nd Bangladesh Circular Economy Summit in Dhaka to exchange insights and expertise aimed at advancing circularity within the apparel and textiles sector in Bangladesh.

The Summit, organized by the Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) in collaboration with German development cooperation agency GIZ and in association with the Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in Bangladesh at Radisson Blu Water Garden, Dhaka on June 11, spotlighted the importance and ways of transitioning from a linear economic model to one that prioritizes resource efficiency and waste reduction.

The discussions and engagement at the summit aimed at propelling the transition from a linear to a circular model in Bangladesh’s apparel and textile industries.

The summit began with an inaugural ceremony, followed by four insightful plenary sessions, three engaging panel discussions, and an innovative breakout session. Through these platforms, participants explored strategies to accelerate the adoption of circular practices within Bangladesh’s apparel and textile industries.

Speakers at the Opening ceremony

• H.E. Jahangir Kabir Nanak, Honorable Minister for Textiles & Jute, Government of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh,
• Mr. Siddiqur Rahman, former President of BGMEA
• Mr. Thijs Woudstra, Deputy Head of Mission, Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in Bangladesh
• Mr. Jan Janowski, Deputy Head of Mission, Embassy of Germany in Bangladesh
• Mr. Mostafiz Uddin, Founder & CEO, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange

CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, announced the appointment of Alex Zucchi as its new president. Mr Zucchi was elected at the General Assembly held on 14 June 2024.

Mr Zucchi has been active in CEMATEX, having been involved in the ACIMIT delegation since 2015. He is the immediate past president of ACIMIT, and continues to be a staunch advocate of the sustainability cause, including promotion of the ACIMIT green label and the recycling of textile machinery. Currently, he is the managing director and partner of Ferraro, a manufacturer specialising in finishing machinery.

Following Mr Zucchi's election, the General Assembly expressed its gratitude to the outgoing president, Ernesto Maurer, who led the association with enthusiasm and professional competence for four years. Mr Maurer will continue to be involved in CEMATEX as its vice president.

Portuguese textile entrepreneur, Mario Jorge Machado, has been elected President of EURATEX during its General Assembly on 14 June. The Assembly also nominated Alberto Paccanelli as Honorary President.

Mario Jorge Machado has an extensive career in textiles. Mario is currently a shareholder and director of "Adalberto Textile Solutions, S.A.", where he applies advanced management practices to boost competitiveness and innovation. He has been president of the Textile and Clothing Association of Portugal (ATP) since 2019, and he stands out for his strategic leadership in the textile and clothing sector, promoting innovation and sustainability. He represents ATP on the Board of CIP - Confederação Empresarial de Portugal and chairs CIP's strategic council for the environment and sustainability.

With a degree in Production Polymer Engineering from the University of Minho, his expertise ranges from continuous process improvement to the development of B2B commercial teams and B2C business models. His vision encompasses operational excellence and the implementation of sustainable practices, contributing to the evolution of the textile industry.

The Assembly also nominated Alberto Paccanelli as Honorary President, recognising over a decade of commitment to EURATEX and the European textile industry.

EURATEX General Assembly also elected 4 other members of the Presidency Team: Michael Kamm (ZWILLING Gruppe, Germany), Barbara Cimmino (Yamamay, Italy), Grégory Marchant (UTT, France) and Ismail Kolunsag (Cross Tekstil, Turkey). During the Assembly, EURATEX also welcomed new memberships from CEMATEX and Forschungskuratorium Textil e. V., and a partnership with Reju. (France).

Beaulieu International Group is investing €5 million to transition the fossil based energy supply of its Cushion Vinyl production plant in Wielsbeke, Belgium, to bio mass generated steam supply. A transition to renewable energy. To this end, B.I.G. is collaborating with A&U Energie, a company that converts non-recyclable wood waste into green energy and heat. This strategic move aligns with B.I.G.'s commitment to reach ‘net zero’ for their operations by 2030.

The transition from fossil energy to green steam and the switch to waste gas treatment without direct fossil energy brings significant benefits. First, the switch in technology will lead to 88% reduction in their Belgian Cushion Vinyl carbon footprint related to heat supply and waste gas treatment, compared to the current emissions. Second, the use of steam heating and electric energy provides improved energy efficiency. In addition, the use of steam systems is known for its safety and reliability, providing a safer and more stable heating solution for the Belgian Cushion Vinyl facility. Moreover, the switch to steam and electric energy allows for the use of green electricity in the future, if available.

In addition to transitioning to 100% green energy, Beaulieu International Group is also dedicated to advancing the circular economy. These efforts encompass various initiatives, including increasing the use of recycled and reused materials. For example, 50% of B.I.G.'s PVC floor coverings are already fully recyclable. Additionally, they are actively working to reduce the environmental impact of their solutions by 42% at the end of their life cycle, striving to minimize product emissions to nearly zero, and eliminating pollutants. Recently at the Belgian Flanders Flooring Days, Beauflor launched its Twilight collection, a cushion vinyl floor created with PVC from 100% bio and circular sources resulting in a 40% reduced CO₂ footprint compared to their conventional heterogeneous CV flooring for residential applications

Furthermore, their cushion vinyl brand Beauflor launched the ReLive concept, a specialized program designed for a circular future, ensuring the collection, sorting, and recycling of PVC flooring cutting waste. Currently, this program focuses on post-installation waste and is exclusively available in France, with the goal of expanding its reach to other EU countries.

Through the establishment of strategic partnerships dedicated to finding innovative ways to repurpose waste materials previously slated for incineration, B.I.G. underscores its commitment to sustainable solutions and collaboration with like-minded organizations. 75% of B.I.G.'s post-industrial waste is now being successfully recycled.

The Lectra Group company announced a new collaboration between TextileGenesis, the textile traceability platform and the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC®). It will enable the implementation, via the TextileGenesis platform, of new solutions to ensure the traceability of cellulose fibers from responsibly managed forests.

In fashion, many textiles such as viscose, lyocell and modal use man-made cellulose fibers. These fibers are themselves made from wood pulp, the production of which can contribute to deforestation.

Founded in 1994, the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC®) is an international NGO whose mission is to promote responsible forest management worldwide. In particular, the organization offers certification for products and raw materials which have been obtained from wood grown in responsibly managed forests, and comes from supply chains where social rights of workers, communities and indigenous peoples have been safeguarded.

Amit Gautam, founder and CEO of TextileGenesis, explains: "We've already been working with Man Made Cellulosic Fiber Producers for several years to facilitate, thanks to our blockchain-inspired technology, the traceability of fibers manufactured by the most virtuous producers, and we've integrated their analysis criteria into our platform. By also becoming an FSC® partner today, we're taking things a step further. This new collaboration will support companies in the traceability of FSC certified fibers and support the administration and data management of FSC Chain of Custody certification. All players in the value chain will benefit from increased transparency and much more reliable upstream data. Fashion brands will be able to demonstrate much more easily that their garments use textiles made from responsibly sourced man-made cellulose fibers."

Fabian Farkas, FSC International Chief Commercial Director, adds: “We are seeing a rapid increase in interest in FSC certification from the textile industry, marking a very positive trend. Through this collaboration with TextileGenesis, we aim to simplify the administrative part of FSC certification for companies within the textile supply chain by automating many required data processes. Our goal is to empower brands to identify opportunities for seamless progress in meeting their FSC procurement policies.”

Following the signature in October 2023 of a memorandum of understanding with the International Cotton Association (ICA) and the launch last January of two consortiums with footwear and leather players, and more recently the announcement of its partnership with the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF), the initiator of The Good Cashmere Standard® (GCS), TextileGenesis confirms, with this new collaboration with the FSC®, its central place in the ecosystem of players mobilizing for more sustainable and responsible fashion.