From the Sector

Response to higher material costs worldwide: Global political and economic developments have been leading to rising raw material and energy costs for some time. The textile machinery industry is also affected by this trend. Rieter machines and components consist to a large extent of steel, copper, aluminum and electronics. These materials in particular have seen higher demand and higher prices in recent months.

Rieter has not yet passed on the additional costs to its customers. Since the price trend is proving to be long-term, the company will adjust its prices from March 2026.

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has published a new insights paper, Unpacking Pay Equity in Fashion: Türkiye, examining the drivers of gender pay disparities in one of Europe’s most important fashion sourcing hubs. Launched during a closed-door industry roundtable at the OECD Forum on Due Diligence in the Garment and Footwear Sector in Paris, the insights paper explores how structural factors, including occupational segregation, care responsibilities, and limited data visibility, continue to shape pay outcomes for women in Türkiye’s textile and apparel sector, while highlighting opportunities for coordinated action across policy makers, brands, other buyers, and suppliers.

The insights paper draws on a facility-level survey of 43 Turkish textile and apparel manufacturers, interviews with trade unions and worker associations, and input from social sustainability experts including the Social & Labor Convergence Program (SLCP), the Fair Labor Association (FLA), and the Anker Research Institute (ARI). The findings offer a nuanced picture of pay equity in a sector that employs nearly one million formally registered workers and contributes approximately 7.8% of Türkiye’s national GDP.

Key Findings:
Unpacking Pay Equity in Fashion: Türkiye highlights several key insights into pay equity within the Turkish fashion manufacturing industry:

• Türkiye’s gender pay gap is estimated at between 15.6% and 17.4%. The EU average is around 12%. The insights paper cautions, however, that headline pay gap figures alone can mask deeper structural inequalities within the sector.
• Gender pay disparities are driven largely by structural factors rather than unequal pay for the same work, including occupational segregation, differences in career progression opportunities, cultural norms, access to training, and the distribution of care responsibilities.
• Women remain concentrated in lower-paid production, sewing and quality control roles, while men are more prevalent in higher-paid technical and supervisory positions – a key driver of persistent pay inequalities.
• The insights paper finds that limited measurement and disclosure of gender-disaggregated wage data continues to hinder companies’ ability to identify where inequality sits – and therefore to address it effectively.
• Ongoing economic pressures, including inflation and rising production costs, have placed sustained strain on the sector. Despite this, many manufacturers are making concerted efforts to maintain formal employment, comply with labour laws and protect jobs, demonstrating resilience in challenging conditions.

Closing gender pay gaps is not only a social imperative but a business one. Improving pay equity can strengthen workforce morale, retention and long-term resilience, while supporting alignment with evolving EU regulatory and buyer expectations. As EU pay transparency and due diligence requirements increasingly affect global supply chains, brands sourcing from Türkiye require greater visibility into wage practices across their supply chains.

Federica Marchionni, CEO of Global Fashion Agenda, says: “Pay equity is fundamental to build a fair and resilient fashion industry. This research shows that gender pay gaps in Türkiye’s fashion manufacturing sector are real, but they are also addressable. As progress depends on coordinated actions – from policymakers strengthening enabling frameworks, to brands adopting responsible purchasing practices, and suppliers embedding transparent, gender-responsive wage systems that reflect the realities of women’s working lives – GFA will continue to accelerate impact by mobilising the industry toward a more resilient future.”

The insights paper outlines practical recommendations for policymakers, brands, other buyers and suppliers. These include expanding access to childcare and parental support, strengthening formal employment and oversight of subcontracting, improving gender-disaggregated pay reporting, adopting responsible purchasing practices, and investing in women’s skills development and leadership pathways. Collectively, these actions can strengthen Türkiye’s manufacturing base, enhance women’s economic participation, and advance the fashion industry towards a net-positive future in which pay equity is a lived reality.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas sent a letter House leaders urging them to oppose and block the Secure Revenue Clearance Channel Act, a bill that would essentially reopen a dangerous trade loophole and ultimately harm U.S. textile manufacturers.

“Last year through bipartisan action, Congress voted overwhelmingly to end de minimis after identifying the substantial harms it perpetrated,” Glas states in the letter to Speaker of the House Mike Johnson (D-LA) and Minority Leader Hakeem Jeffries (D-NY). “The House China Select Committee determined in 2023 that Chinese e-commerce platforms were flooding the U.S. with billions of dollars’ worth of goods but had paid $0 in import duties, while American companies comparatively spent millions. Additionally, these platforms were found lacking in due diligence mechanisms to verify that products were not tainted by forced labor in China.”

Last year, Congress passed bipartisan legislation codifying the end of de minimis, effective July 2027. The Trump administration also took action to close de minimis to all commercial shipments globally through executive order, which took effect at the end of August 2025.

“As a result, the volume of small package deliveries has dramatically decreased, duty collections are up, and American consumers and workers are better off,” the letter states.

“Despite clear action from Congress and the administration on the negative impact of express shipment programs for ‘small value’ packages at U.S. ports, some still want to provide duty relief to foreign importers while requiring less information on packages valued at up to $600 — making enforcement impossible and rewarding offshore producers,” the letter continues. “De minimis was labeled ‘China’s backdoor to the U.S.,’ facilitated by an environment where goods were cleared on manifest, packages were not properly inspected or levied duties, and the risk posed was extremely high. The Secure Revenue Clearance Channel Act would recreate many of these same problems, with China being the biggest winner.”

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), which represents the full U.S. textile supply chain from fiber and yarn to fabrics and finished sewn products, lauds a bill introduced today aimed at ending the U.S. Customs & Border Protection’s (CBP) “first sale” rule.

National Council of Textile Organizations President and CEO Kim Glas
“NCTO and the U.S. textile industry strongly support the Last Sale Valuation Act, a bill that would eliminate a harmful CBP rule that significantly lowers duties paid by importers on textile and apparel goods and disadvantages U.S. textile manufacturers in favor of countries that often employ predatory trade practices and fail to provide reciprocal market access.

“We sincerely thank Sens. Bill Cassidy (R-LA) and Sheldon Whitehouse (D-RI) for their leadership on this bill. Closing this loophole will help level the playing field, bolster the U.S. textile industry, and spur more onshoring and investment here and in our Western Hemisphere.”

Luxembourg-based OCSiAl, the global leader in industrial synthesis of graphene nanotubes, announces the appointment of Antigone Loudiadis as a director.
 
An investment entity owned by Ms. Loudiadis made a substantial investment in OCSiAl at the end of 2025. This investment followed an investment earlier that year by a Luxembourg “club” of investors.
 
Ms. Loudiadis founded and led Rothesay Life, one of the UK’s leading pension insurers. Prior to the establishment of Rothesay Life, Ms. Loudiadis was a partner at Goldman Sachs International and cohead of its European Investment Banking Division. Over the course of her 30-year career as a senior financial executive, she led complex structured and M&A transactions and managed senior relationships with governments and multinational institutions.
 
“I am very excited to be joining OCSiAl,” said Ms. Loudiadis. “It’s cutting-edge deep tech that takes established industries—like tires and coatings—to a new level. But it also goes hand in hand with the next step in the development of EVs, data centers, AI, robotics and aerospace.”
 
“I am delighted to have Addy on the board. She brings a rare combination of deep capital markets expertise and firsthand experience in building and governing large, capital-intensive businesses,” said Peter Cuneo, Chairman of the OCSiAl Board. “As OCSiAl accelerates its industrial scale-up and prepares for significantly larger long-term investments, her perspective will be invaluable in shaping our capital strategy, strengthening governance, and engaging with a broader base of global investors.”
 
As advanced materials increasingly take on strategic importance alongside energy and capital, OCSiAl’s current phase of industrial scale-up places the company at the center of this shift.

ECHA Forum’s pilot enforcement project found that 19 % of the checked hazardous mixtures were not notified to poison centres.

Inspectors in 18 EU/EEA countries checked nearly 1 597 mixtures to verify whether industry complies with the obligation to notify hazardous mixtures to national poison centres. This is regulated under the EU’s Classification, Labelling and Packaging (CLP) Regulation. These notifications are crucial for poison centres to provide an adequate medical response in case of exposure to hazardous mixtures. Of all checked mixtures, 19 % were not notified to the authorities. 

Chris Van den hole, the Working Group Chair of this pilot project said: 
“Missing notifications of the necessary information to the poison centres undermine the effectiveness of emergency response. Therefore, inspectors take these findings very seriously and initiated numerous enforcement actions to bring companies to compliance.
“To improve the situation, we have listed recommendations for market actors, authorities and consumers in our report.”

The pilot project also aimed to raise the duty holders’ awareness of their legal obligations, for example, to place the Unique Formula Identifier (UFI) on the label of their products. The 16-digit, alphanumerical UFI code is a vital tool used by the poison centres to rapidly identify a mixture following an accidental poisoning. In 15 % of inspected mixtures, the required UFI was missing from the product label. 

Enforcement actions
Where non-compliance was detected, written advice was the most common enforcement measure applied by inspectors, followed by verbal advice, administrative orders, fines, and even criminal complaints. A number of cases were still under follow-up phase at time of reporting.

Background
According to the CLP Regulation, companies placing hazardous mixtures on the market are obliged to provide information about the composition of those mixtures to the appointed bodies. These bodies make this information available to poison centres so that they can give advice to the citizens or medical personnel in the event of an emergency. The duty to notify applies to mixtures that are classified for human health or physical hazards. For example, mixtures that are corrosive to skin, can cause eye damage or those that are explosive.

The names of companies that placed the controlled mixtures on the market and the products’ brand names were not reported for this project. The main purpose of the project was to harmonise and strengthen the national enforcement at the EU level.

On Monday, February 09, Xu Hongjie signed the purchase agreement for Mayer & Cie. The Chinese entrepreneur is thereby acquiring the company’s entire circular knitting business, including its subsidiaries in Vsetín (Czech Republic) and Jintan (China).

Xu Hongjie comes from a southern Chinese entrepreneurial family that has been running the company Huixing for almost 30 years. Huixing employs around 1,000 people and develops, manufactures and sells circular knitting machines worldwide. With machines under the Mayer & Cie. brand, Huixing aims to enter the premium segment in the future. As development and manufacturing are at the core of the Mayer & Cie. brand, the Albstadt site will continue to be of strategic importance going forward.
 
“We are very pleased that a future perspective has emerged for the company and for everything we associate with it,” says Wolfgang Müller. He has worked at Mayer & Cie. for many years as Head of Sales and, over the past weeks, has worked intensively with his colleagues and Xu Hongjie on a plan for the restart of Mayer & Cie.

The new owner returns his thanks and sincere gratitude to all the employees who supported him throughout the two-month negotiation process. He highlights Wolfgang Müller and Rainer Müller in particular: “They bestowed upon me courage and wisdom, serving as the ever-shining Big Dipper in the long night.”

Restart in several phases
For the company through which he intends to implement the restart of Mayer & Cie., Xu Hongjie has initially chosen the name “Blitzstart” (Lightning Start). The young Chinese entrepreneur does not (yet) speak German, but the 32-year-old did not choose the name by chance: In the coming weeks, the new owner plans to set up a small team to boost sales again and prepare the relaunch.

All employees will need to be rehired, as today’s signing of the purchase agreement marks the dissolution of the former Mayer & Cie. GmbH & Co. KG. For Xu Hongjie, a father of two, this means there will be no Chinese New Year celebrations this year. The holiday is celebrated on 17 February and is comparable in significance to Christmas. “There is a lot to do and very little time,” he says. “We need to make sure the company survives.”

The new owner’s goal is to gradually restart production in spring. In recent days, only assembly work has continued in the facilities on the outskirts of Albstadt-Tailfingen—machines already on order are scheduled to be delivered in the coming days—while production itself has come to a halt. Employees will also need to be brought back on board for this area.

Clear objectives
With Mayer & Cie. and its premium machines for single jersey, double jersey, interlock and jacquard, the Chinese textile entrepreneur intends to continue addressing textile innovators around the world. They should find “intelligent, reliable knitting technologies at Mayer & Cie.—developed in Albstadt, powered by our employees and designed for long-term use,” explains Xu Hongjie.
A customer-centric approach is particularly important to him: “We listen, we implement and we improve—and we do it fast,” says Xu. To underline what he means, he refers to his experience at the family-owned company Huixing: “If our customers have complaints about the machine we delivered, we make it better—once, twice, three times. And we do it as quickly as possible.”

This approach is part of Huixing’s recipe for success: Over the past three decades, the Chinese circular knitting machine manufacturer has established itself worldwide, particularly in the field of mattress ticking fabrics.

Production to remain in Albstadt
Xu Hongjie’s clearly stated goal is for Mayer & Cie. to remain what it is today: a German premium brand, developed and manufactured in Germany. “People love and trust brands with tradition,” says Xu Hongjie. “We are proud of the 120-year history and the technology within this company.”

At the same time, he emphasizes how important agility is to him—especially in development and in turning customer needs into solutions. “Our customers should see us as a partner.” Internal friction, for example caused by complex structures and lengthy processes, is not an option for him. “Simplify, digitize and renew” is the guiding principle.

From competitor to sister company
Huixing, headquartered in Shishi in China’s Fujian province, has evolved from a single machinery manufacturer into a diversified industrial group with a strong global footprint. With advanced manufacturing at its core, the group operates seven large-scale production sites, covers more than 300,000 square meters of modern facilities and has expanded its activities beyond textile machinery into areas such as software development, AI applications and industrial internet services.

With the acquisition of Mayer & Cie., Xu Hongjie is bringing together two strong names in circular knitting — a 120-year-old German premium brand and a fast-growing Chinese industrial group. Xu Hongjie describes the move as a landmark step guided by his “1+1=11” philosophy: not a simple addition, but a “chemical reaction, that unlocks synergy far beyond the expected”.

“We are honored to join Mayer, a great platform, and become part of this big family,” he says, stressing that the company’s core R&D and manufacturing base will remain in Albstadt, Germany. Xu Hongjie also underlines the cultural fit between the two organizations: “The more I have gotten to know the people at Mayer & Cie., the more I have felt like being part of a family — a family that knows its values and stands up for them.” He concludes: “In Chinese, Huixing means ‘connecting stars’. That is exactly what we aim to achieve with this step.”

The new owner
Xu Hongjie, aged 32, comes from the Chinese owner family behind Huixing, a family-run circular knitting machine manufacturer founded in 1998 with around 1,000 employees. He studied Business Management in China and the United Kingdom. This cross-cultural background enables him to understand the efficiency of Chinese manufacturing while respecting the technical rigor of German industry.

He has been actively involved in the family business for more than ten years, most recently focusing on sales and international business development. In addition to his entrepreneurial role, Xu serves as Chairman of the Shishi Young Entrepreneurs Association, where he is committed to supporting and mentoring the next generation of business leaders. He is also a member of the Quanzhou Municipal People’s Congress, representing the city of Shishi.

“The launch of VIATT's inaugural Trend Forum marks an important new step for this fair,” stated Ms Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. “Leveraging Messe Frankfurt’s nearly three decades of leadership in coordinating apparel and home textiles trend forecasting – a track record of consistently setting industry benchmarks – we are now extending this unparalleled expertise to enlighten the entire textile value chain. Utilising the expertise of our top-level trend curators, this holistic approach is designed to deliver unparalleled insights, foster robust innovation, and empower businesses to anticipate and shape consumer preferences with greater precision and relevance.”
 
Acting as a unified set of principles that flows seamlessly across sectors, the LIFESTYLE TRENDS shape fashion choices, home interior design, and interactions with technical products and interfaces.
 
Mr Kai Chow, Lead Curator, VIATT Trend Forum and Creative Director of MUSEATIVE, explained the unique approach: “Rather than treating fashion, home, and technology as separate worlds, the Trend Forum presents lifestyle trends as a shared design language – one that shapes what we wear, how we live, and how we engage with the products around us. Instead of presenting trends in isolation, it demonstrates how a single mindset can influence products, spaces, and technologies simultaneously. Because these themes are rooted in human behaviour, they naturally scale across sectors – creating one coherent language that connects what we wear, how we live, and the materials and technologies that support everyday life.”
 
In this vibrant tapestry for S/S 2027, ARTISANSHIP is set to elevate style into a rarefied realm of artistry, with NeIlyRodi™ Agency bringing the four distinct themes to life:
 
TO WORK
This theme slows the rhythm of the city and transforms metropolitan living into an oasis of calm. In fashion, garments take the shape of fluid tailoring, softly draped dresses, and minimal separates. Interiors echo this sentiment, with cushions, throws, and drapery that create restorative sanctuaries within dense cityscapes.
 
It is expressed through a colour palette of soft, natural hues, accented by slate blue and black. Fabrics are notably soft, tactile, and sustainable. Design direction emphasises minimalist botanicals, tonal motifs, and organic lines. Applications span tailored separates, light outerwear, and city-chic loungewear in fashion; cushions and drapery for the home; and aesthetically innovative, wellness-tracking technical textiles.
 
TO RELAX 
Celebrating the season’s carefree spirit, this theme encapsulates the romance of leisure, expressed through light, airy, and deliberately imperfect fabrics. This mood is liberated by a jubilant blend of airy pastels and sun-soaked brights, including mint, aqua, and teal for freshness, a soft touch of blush and pink, and optimistic pops of vivid yellow and orange.
 
Fabrics include linen, cotton voile, chambray, and organic blends. Design direction highlights hand-drawn botanicals, romantic florals, nautical strips, and country checks. Applications include airy curtains and casual throws for the home; relaxed fashion pieces; and tech innovations focusing on functional performance, wellness tracking, and circular materials.
 
TO HAVE FUN
This theme presents an unapologetically dramatic counterpoint, unfolding a world of grandeur, decoration, and glamour. Terracotta, sage, and lavender establish a grounded base, while golden ochre, crimson, cobalt, and royal purple electrify the narrative with jewel-like vibrancy, balanced by the mysterious depth of deep teal and midnight blue. 
 
Luxurious fabrics and textures include ornate brocade, jacquard, beading and jewel. Design direction features baroque florals, ornate geometrics, and embellished surfaces. Applications span statement bedding and dramatic drapery for interiors; evening gowns and statement accessories in fashion; and textural, 3D-printed, and light-emitting textiles in tech.
 
TO CREATE
Being the most personal and expressive of the S/S 2027 narratives, this theme champions individuality and cultural storytelling. It blends earthy-warm colours with bold vibrancy, where terracotta reds, golden yellows, and forest greens echo artisanal roots, while teal and indigo provide modern contrast.
 
Fabrics and textures are notably natural and textural, encompassing hemp, bamboo blends, patchwork, and circular/recycled textiles. Design direction draws from cultural motifs, alongside painterly abstracts and hand-painted details. Applications range from fashion-forward layered streetwear and boho ensembles; to bold rugs and artistic throws for the home; to AI and digital design integration, protective textiles, and real-time data integration in tech.
 
Overall, trends will be an important aspect of the fair’s fringe programme. Mr Kai Chow will present the VIATT Lifestyle Trends Spring/Summer 2027 Seminar, along with two Trend Forum Introduction Tours taking place on 26 and 27 February in Hall B. The first tour will occur right after the seminar on Day 1 – ideal for fairgoers seeking more in-depth analysis.
 
In addition, the Thai Industrial Hemp Trade Association (TiHTA) will return to the fair to host a seminar focused on design and trends. The association aims to captivate global buyers with fashion designs that leverage organic raw materials and promote sustainable fashion made from hemp fibres. 
 
Meanwhile, Style Republik, Vietnam’s fashion media dedicated to championing and empowering the country’s fashion talents, will also lead a panel discussion on upcoming local fashion trends.
 
The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE). VIATT 2026 will be held from 26 – 28 February 2026.

DIGEL AG is strengthening its national and international presence with two new, representative locations in Düsseldorf and Munich, set to open for the Spring/Summer 2027 order season. With these two showrooms, the menswear company is making a clear statement for growth, internationality, and brand strength in the premium segment.

The new showroom in Düsseldorf is located in one of Germany’s most prestigious menswear environments, in the immediate vicinity of brands such as Boss, Strellson, and PVH. Spanning 550 square meters—around 30% larger than before—the two brands Digel and Digel Move will in future offer an exclusive brand experience in an urban lifestyle setting. In addition to order activities, the location will also be used as an event venue, for the DIGEL Academy, and for VIP customer events. Thanks to Düsseldorf’s central location and international character, more than 60% of export customers can be optimally served here, with further growth potential.

The new showroom in Munich will also take the Digel and Digel Move brands to the next level. Located in Lodenfrey Park and surrounded by leading premium labels, a modern space with a loft character and industrial style is being created—perfect for presenting the Digel DNA in an authentic and inspiring environment. Munich will not only become an important order location, but also a venue for exclusive press events, academy formats, and customer experiences.

With these new showrooms, DIGEL underscores its ambition to further expand premium menswear internationally while simultaneously fostering creative and collaborative exchange with retail partners and the press.

“With Düsseldorf and Munich, we are creating two exceptional spaces that make our brand emotionally tangible. Both locations combine aesthetics, functionality, and inspiration—exactly what DIGEL stands for,” explains Jochen Digel, CEO of DIGEL AG.

Ontex Group NV, a leading international developer and producer of personal care solutions, introduces a new adult incontinence range developed to offer superior protection while being gentle on the skin. The first products –Sensitive Pants, Sensitive Slip and Sensitive Form – will become gradually available for healthcare institutions across Europe.

Recent European research conducted by Ontex among more than 2,500 people living with incontinence shows that dermatitis and skin irritation remain widespread and have a meaningful impact on daily life. Almost 1 in 2 people living with incontinence have experienced dermatitis or skin irritation in the intimate area; with many describing significant discomfort and effects on confidence and wellbeing. Despite this high prevalence, “Around 80% of caregivers are not trained to recognize dermatitis. Education and better product design are key to preventing complications.” says Dr. Maria Panourgia, Geriatrician at the Milton Keynes University Hospital (UK).

These findings underline the urgent need for affordable, qualitative incontinence products that actively support skin health. The new Sensitive range has been developed precisely to answer this need—combining trusted protection with dermatological care to help prevent irritation and keep skin as healthy as possible.

To address the educational need, the Sensitive range is complemented with expert training advise on how to recognize, prevent and treat dermatitis related to incontinence. This is offered both through Ontex’s network of nurse advisors and through the online training platform Ontex Academy.

Sensitive range: powerful protection that respects the skin
The new Sensitive range combines proven incontinence protection with dermatological care. 

Sensitive Pants offer:

• Topsheet enriched with botanical ingredients – helps to prevent skin irritation
• Innovative Y-core technology – for instant dryness
• Faster absorption – up to 2.5x faster than previous iD or Serenity pants
• Hypoallergenic design – gentle on fragile skin
• Odour control technology – for lasting freshness and confidence

Tatiana Bumachar Carvalho Pastori, Sr Marketing Manager Adult Care concludes: “the Sensitive range was developed to help people with incontinence to live their everyday life more comfortable. At the same time, it offers professional caregivers a product they can rely on, making it easier for them to deliver the best possible care, supported by our training opportunities.”