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• The important trade fair platform for entry into the Chinese consumer market with China's most influential consumer group for the fashion and beauty sector with the strongest growth in consumption - the millennials - as target group
• The international fashion showcase for decision makers with an overview of na-tional and international fashion brands
• Strategic market development through comprehensive visitor marketing for inter-national brands at CHIC

 
CHIC, China International Fashion Fair presents around 800 exhibitors in an exhibition space of approx. 50,000 sqm (CHIC in March 100,000 sqm) in two halls from 27 to 29 September 2018 at the National Exhibition & Convention Center in Shanghai.
The current conditions for international fashion companies in the Chinese market offer significant improvements for international brands. Import tariffs will be lowered from 15.9% to 7.1% to further promote the import and upgrade of the industry.  

The McKinsey study "THE `Chinese consumer´ no longer exists” defines Chinese consumers no longer as interested only in low prices, but as selective, healthconscious with diverse shopping hab-its and preferences. The fashion awareness changes to an individual sense of style, influenced by international and national trends. China's millennials are the WORLD'S most influential consumer group, with a 16% share of the population, driving consumption growth in the Chinese market and contributing more than 20% from today until 2030.  
 
According to the edition's motto "New Makers", Asia's leading fashion fair is picking up on the latest changes in the Chinese fashion market and providing the essential tools for the Chinese market. The new, young design of the fair, which was launched in March this year at CHIC, is being ex-panded. The individual sections of CHIC present the latest trends in the Chinese and international fashion market. CHIC connects and brokers partnerships and launches the new generation gar-ment industry, which builds on high-tech strategies and interlinks industrial production with modern information and communication technologies, relying on intelligent, digitally networked systems in self-organized production.

The individual fashion areas of CHIC  
FASHION JOURNEY puts the focus on interna-tional exhibitors. In addition to the large Italian pavilion, the French pavilion "Paris Forever" and the Korean show-inshow "Preview in China", in-dividual participants from Poland, the UK, France, Italy, Spain, Japan and the USA use CHIC as a bridge in the Chinese market. The next German group participation is planned for March 2019, whereby Germany will also be rep-resented with individual brands such as ESISTO in the area NEW LOOK.

IMPULSES, CHIC's designer section, features emerging designer brands such as Junne, Hua Mu Shen, King Ping, Anjaylia, Mao Mart homme, Tuffcan, etc.

The SUSTAINABILITY ZONE, first showcased at CHIC in the fall of 2017, is receiving even greater emphasis due to the increasing environmental and health awareness of Chinese consum-ers, featuring sustainable supply chain solutions, sustainable innovation and sustainable fashion collections. Programs such as Chemical Stewardship 2020, Carbon Stewardship 2020, Water Stewardship 2020 and Circular Stewardship 2020 are presented. The womenswear section NEW LOOK of CHIC presents next to the leading Chinese brands like AVRALA, and CMH also international brands like Saint James from France, ESISTO from Ger-many, Trenz Eight from Canada or PN JONE, USA.

Beside the suppliers of classic menswear, URBAN VIEW, the menswear section, also includes casualwear brands like NRDMA and SUPIN as well as bespoke companies like H. Pin& Tack, Jin Yuan Yang, Fa Lan Qian Mu, Long Sheng and DANDINGHE.
CHIC YOUNG BLOOD shows young lifestyle brands, KID'S PARADISE offers e.g the largest fashion group in China for children's fashion XTEP KIDS.

SECRET STARS (fashion accessories), SHANGHAI BAG (bags), HERITAGE (leather & fur), SUPERIOR FACTORY (ODM) and FUTURE LINK (services) complete the fashion offer at CHIC. FUTURE LINK gathers fashion service providers for among others supply chain solutions, smart retail and smart production, RFID, laser technology and data utilization.

Visitor management
On the rise in China's retail scene, multi brand and custom stores are the fastest growing offline sector. The number has increased significantly in the last five years from less than 100 to more than 5,000 stores. Exclusive shopping experiences and an individual offer are important. Custom-ers value a wide range of products: a mix of international and national exclusive brands is the most common concept.

The high investments of the CHIC organizers in the visi-tor management for the fair pay off: CHIC has a per-sonalized trade visitor database of over 200,000 con-tacts, which are used intensively for the visitor marketing in the run-up to the fair for a commercial matching for the exhibitors. At the fair, VIP match making activities will take place especially for selected international brands, that will have the opportunity to present them-selves there and make the relevant contacts in the Chi-nese trade. Meetings are organized among others with multi brand stores and buyers such as The Fashion Door, Dong Liang, Jing Dong, VIP Shop and department stores, and retailers such as Carrefour, Amazon, De-cathlon, Wang Fujing, etc. An important tool for the CHIC visitor marketing is social media; for this special programs are run, in which individual brands are pre-sented to prospective visitors.    

CHIC is visited by representatives of all distribution channels for distribution in the Chinese market, at the last event in autumn 2017 more than 65,722 visitors from all over China and other nations were registered at the CHIC, with a significant increase in multi brand stores.
 
Seminars and shows
The future of fashion business in China will be discussed in a panel of experts as part of CHIC TALKS. Furthermore, a trend seminar from WGSN for FW 2019 and a workshop on bag and shoe production from the Moda Pelle Academy are planned.

CHIC shows provide an overview of selected international brands.

CHIC is organized by Beijing Fashion Expo. Co. ltd. and China World Exhibitions, supported by China National Garment Association, The Sub-Council of Textile Industry (CCPIT) and China World Trade Center.

• Sudanese and Chinese investors want to secure raw material supplies

Nairobi (GTAI) - Ethiopia has further successes in attracting textile companies: One British company is planning to invest USD 100 million, one Chinese company even plans to invest USD 220 million. This means that the textile sector is increasingly becoming a self-starter, as donors increasingly want to supply domestic industry with pre-products. Meanwhile, those who invest should not only raise the financial means, but also the raw material cotton, according to market experts.

The Ethiopian textile and clothing market has two new entrants: the British Intrade Co. UK Ltd. and the Chinese Wuxi No. 1 Cotton Investment Co. Ltd, Intrade intends to build a textile and clothing factory in the Mekelle Industrial Park (Tigray Regional State), which was opened in July 2017. Initial cost estimates are around USD 100 million. Intrade is an offshore company of the Sudanese Mahgoub-Sons Group. The company has reached an agreement with the Ethiopian Investment Commission to invest USD 200 million in three projects. The textile project is to be completed in 16 months.

Security of supply for cotton is becoming an issue
The Sudanese group is not only interested in textile production, but also with lucrative supply transactions for its own cotton. They have the capacity to supply 500,000 tons of long staple quality cotton annually, Wagdi Mirghani Mahgoub, Managing Director of Intrade says. The supply of raw cotton has become an increasing problem for the emerging Ethiopian textile industry since some Asian countries ordered export stops for the raw material, including the PR China and India. The African Plantation, which cultivates 33,000 hectares of agricultural land in Sudan, also belongs to the Mahgoub-Sons Group.

However, Wuxi No. 1 Cotton Investment has announced the second and larger textile investment of 2018: a textile factory will be opened shortly in the Dire Dawa Industrial Park. In a first phase, USD 80 million are planned, followed by further investments totaling USD 140 million. The company intends to install state-of-the-art textile machines to produce and supply goods for the demanding markets in Europe, Japan, South Korea and Southeast Asia. According to their own statements, partners are leading world machinery brands. Wuxi is already pursuing a project in the Ethiopian city of Adama and also has plans to grow cotton in Ethiopia.

Ethiopia is considered the first textile address in Africa
"Clothing companies are nomads," an industry consultant knows, "they go where it is cheapest for them. If wages and ancillary costs rise too much in countries like Bangladesh or the PR China, the caravan moves on." South of the Sahara, only Mauritius has made a name for itself as a producer of high-quality clothing. Attempts to establish larger-scale textile and clothing companies in Namibia and Lesotho have so far been unsuccessful. Meanwhile, Kenya and Ghana have production conditions that are far too expensive.

Ethiopia offers several advantages at the same time: Wages and ancillary costs are extremely low and far below those in China. The US Centre for Global Development found out that a worker in Ethiopian sweatshops earns an average of USD 909 a year. In Bangladesh, however, it is US$ 835 and in Tanzania and Kenya even US$ 1,776 and US$ 2,118 respectively. Another advantage: Ethiopian seamstresses are considered to be extremely hardworking and reliable. In addition, there is a tradition in textile and clothing production as well as in leather processing and thus there is a basic pool of trained specialists.

Infrastructure is making huge progress
Meanwhile, the supply of domestic cotton and leather needs to be expanded, because in the drought years 2016 and partly 2017 the supply of cotton was insufficient. The government is cooperating and is increasingly listening to the needs of producers. The infrastructure is currently undergoing sustained improvement, in particular the transport routes to the neighboring seaport of Djibouti, from where Europe can be reached more quickly than from the Far East. And, last but not least, the Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa has a capable air traffic hub with a dozen direct flights to the EU, including Frankfurt and Vienna. In addition, there is a modern air freight center.

Just as important as the delivery routes are the comparatively modern production conditions in the newly emerging industrial centers throughout the country. Everything here is "Made in China": fences, access controls, roads, electricity and water supply, waste and sewage disposal, workers' settlements. From a European perspective, this may look like Chinese dominance, but from an Ethiopian perspective it creates jobs, feeds families and earns foreign exchange. Under better working conditions than in Bangladesh, experts mean.

According to the ideas of the Ethiopian government, the country is undergoing a transformation process: away from an agrarian-based economy and towards an industrial state. By 2025, the country is expected to reach middle-income status and to become Africa's largest industrial production hub. To achieve this, Ethiopia is investing heavily in roads, railways and power generation, health and education, urban and rural development and the creation of industrial clusters.

Customs advantages in the USA and Europe
Ethiopia has so far benefited from the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) of the USA, which, for example, allows savings of 16.8 percent in import duties on cotton trousers and 30 percent on synthetic shirts. Ethiopia also has duty-free access to the EU market under the Everything but Arms initiative. Fears that US President Donald Trump might stop AGOA have not yet come true.

Source: Comtrade

German exports can be expanded
German sales representatives of technology for the textile, clothing and leather industry are not yet well positioned in Ethiopia. According to preliminary figures from the Federal Statistical Office (SITC 724), only EUR 2.84 million of relevant technology where sent to Ethiopia in 2017, though 169 percent more than in the previous year.

Source: Comtrade

• Eports grow slowly
• Industry needs new concepts

Dhaka (GTAI) - The garment industry is the main industry in Bangladesh. The state of the companies has improved since 2013 - when a building with several factories collapsed. Domestic and foreign companies have invested in new processes. Government and associations want to further increase the security. Exports are growing slower. The international competition forces the companies to produce not only more sustainable, but also more efficient and innovative.

On April 24th 2013, north of the Bangladeshi capital Dhaka, the Rana Plaza building collapsed, housing five clothing factories. The disaster claimed 1,138 lives and more injuries. The disaster in-cised deep into the country's largest industrial sector. The massive problems with building and safety as well as violations of workers' rights became internationally visible at once and then vigor-ously tackled.

Foreign companies have invested heavily in the textile and clothing industry in recent years, with a record high in the year after the disaster. According to the Central Bank, foreign direct investment (FDI) in the textile and clothing industry in June 2017 reached a respectable USD 2.6 billion. Com-panies from South Korea have been the largest contributors with USD 766 million, followed by Hong Kong investors with USD 448 million and the United Kingdom with USD 243 million

      *) Financial year from July 1st to June 30th

Several successful programs for more security
Government and international organizations responded with many measures and initiatives at Rana Plaza. The International Labor Organization (ILO) launched programs to improve work-ing conditions. Buyers and industry representatives were looking for solutions.

International traders, trade unions and non-governmental organi-zations finally signed a binding agreement for more fire and building safety in 2013 (Accord on Fire and Building Safety). Employees of Accord have since reviewed more than 1,600 tex-tile and garment factories. Approximately 86 percent of the iden-tified deficiencies were eliminated according to an interim report dated January 2018. Accord will expire in November 2018 after five years. Some participants of the alliance have agreed an ex-tension of the program of three years.

In particular North American importers launched the Alliance (Al-liance for Bangladesh Worker Safety) program in 2013. The Al-liance has since reviewed 666 factories that, as of February 2018, have remedied approximately 87 percent of the deficien-cies. The program will expire also after five years in May 2018.
Representatives of industry and government, trade unions, ILO, the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and international buyers want to co-ordinate the control and rehabilitation measures together. The BGMEA and the government rely on the NI National Initiative, which they developed together with ILO. The Department of Inspection of Factories and Establishments is responsible for NI controls. Under the NI program 1,500 factories have been inspected which are working for do-mestic customers. The program is to be extended to exporting companies and will replace Accord and Alliance.

Workers demand more rights and higher wages
The government made it easier to found and to engage in trade unions after the Rana Plaza disas-ter. According to observers, the approximately 4 million workers in the textile and clothing industry continue to have little formal organization and went repeatedly on strike for higher wages.

A government commission recently increased the monthly minimum wage in the garment industry from Taka 3,000 to 5,300 in 2013. This amount corresponds currently with EUR 52 only. (1 EU-RO = Taka 102.13, exchange rate of March 5th 2018). Trade unions demanded tripling of the minimum wage at the beginning of 2018, because unskilled workers are given this low pay when they are first employed, which is barely enough to survive. The reward grows only later with the skills and experience.

Employees often change their jobs. According to observers, the fluctuation should average be-tween 5 and 7 percent per month. Fair wages and good working conditions would give a good in-fluence on this issue in the companies concerned.

Bangladesh is the second largest exporter of clothing after China
The globally active clothing retailers are buying in Bangladesh on a large scale. Some have offices with hundreds of employees. Major clients include Inditex (Spain), H & M (Sweden), C & A and Tchibo (Germany).

Clothing exports, however, stagnated in the financial year 2016/17. One reason for the weak growth was the strengthened exchange rate. Taka's national currency increased against the US dollar, making exports more expensive and less competitive.

The government is targeting an export growth of 8.1 percent to USD 30.2 billion in 2017/18. The industry is on track indeed, reaching 7.8 percent in the second half of 2017 compared to the same period of the year before. The most important customers are the USA and Germany.

*) Financial year from July 1st to June 30th
Sources: Export Promotion Bureau, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association

Exports from this emerging country enjoy exemption from duty in many developed countries. The European Union grants duty-free and quota-free access. Australia and Japan grant preferential access to the Generalized Scheme of Preferences (GSP). , The USA however has suspended the GSP status in 2013 and imposed tariffs and duties on imports from Bangladesh.

Companies want to grow and become more efficient
The Association of Garment Export Companies BGMEA estimates that over 3,000 garment factories work exclusively for international clients. Another 800 to 1,000 companies sew for local retailers who sell clothing to the country's 160 million inhabitants.

There are no data on company sizes or on the companies with the highest turnover. Clothing companies are mostly registered as private companies and do not publish business figures. The larger ones belong to local conglomerates operating in different economic sectors.

The companies are investing in more modern production facilities to process larger orders faster and at lower unit costs. Imports of machinery and equipment for the textile and clothing industry totaled USD 1.4 billion in 2015. The BGMEA believes that the garment industry has increased its purchases of equipment since.

The added value along the local textile chain is expandable. Simple fabrics and materials are produced locally. The production capacities for fabrics however are not sufficient and need to be increased. The clothing industry is also switching to higher quality synthetic fiber products. Producers hope for higher margins, if, for example, they produce clothing made of elastic fibers or functional clothing made from mixed fibers.

Many pre-products are imported from China and South Korea. Imports however are difficult due to the limited handling capacities of seaports and airports. Logistics costs are high. The clothing sector still has some challenges to overcome.

• As of today, textile interior design is the focus of international attention at Heimtextil in Frankfurt am Main.
• From 9 to 12 January 2018, representatives from industry, commerce, design, architecture and the hotel industry will gather at the world's leading trade fair for home and contract textiles.

‘With 2,975 exhibitors from 64 countries (2017: 2,949)*, Heimtextil is on a growth course for the eighth consecutive year and is continuing its remarkable success story in a challenging market. Over the next few days, we will be experiencing a globally unique design show with a variety of product innovations and textile inspirations by international market leaders’, says Detlef Braun, CEO of Messe Frankfurt. A high-calibre event programme with well-known guests and renowned industry experts will highlight themes relating to furnishing trends and design, architecture and the hotel industry.

Martin Auerbach, Managing Director of the Association of the German Home Textiles Manufacturers, is pleased about the continuation of the trend towards more materiality in private and public spaces. ‘Home textile products are again significantly more visible than they were a few years ago. This confirms the signals we have observed over the past one to two years,’ says Auerbach happily. ‘The diversity of home textiles products, designs and colours makes the international trade fair platform for home textiles a trailblazing annual event to start the year. Although the economy over the past year is likely to remain below expectations – not all of the figures from German industry are available yet – the overall mood in the sector is good’.

VIP guests: Barbara Schöneberger presents wallpaper collection   

In hall 3.0, DecoTeam is celebrating its 30th birthday and inspiring with a varied programme, exciting trend showcases and renowned guests such as TV presenter Enie van de Meiklokjes and star chef Alexander Hermann. Highlights in hall 3.1 include presentations by international textile manufacturers such as Alhambra / Tormes Design from Spain, Damaceno & Antunes / Evo Interior Fabrics from Portugal, Fryett's Fabrics from the UK, Kobe from Germany and Wind from Belgium. Visitors can also look forward to the world's largest wallpaper presentation with international market leaders and celebrity guests. Star entertainer Barbara Schöneberger presents her first collection for the wallpaper factory Gebr. Rasch.

VDT targets wallpapering world record

In cooperation with Heimtextil, the Association of the German Wallpaper Industry (VDT) is aiming for a world record in continuous wallpapering on a 100-metre-long action area. In hall 5.1 (east side), the area will be wallpapered both day and night from 8 to 12 January. Through this, the audience will experience how wallpaper can create atmosphere and noticeably enhances rooms. Trade visitors, journalists and manufacturers are invited to join in with celebrity guests such as interior designer and RTL presenter Resi Colter.

Upholstery: new presentation area in hall 4.2

The upholstery section in hall 4 will see renewed growth in the number of exhibitors thanks to the participation of well-known manufacturers such as Beaulieu Fabrics from Belgium, Konrad Hornschuch from Germany, Luilor and Vigano from Italy and Dina Vanelli from Turkey. Due to the great demand, presentation possibilities for high-quality upholstery and decorative fabrics have been created for the first time in hall 4.2. Trevira is also present here with a promising highlight. For the first time in several years, the company will take part in a big community presentation with its CS partners. These include Engelbert E. Stieger and Getzner Textil from Austria, Jenny Fabrics and Swisstulle from Switzerland, Pugi from Italy and Spandauer Velours from Germany.

Bed, bath & table: Wide range of ready-made products

The home textiles sector also impresses with its strong range. In halls 8 to 11, around 1,500 suppliers will be presenting ready-made products in the bed, bath and table segments. The bedding offer stands out here as the world's largest range of such products.

Hall 8.0, which is completely booked out, has become the central contact point for the bedding industry. Numerous market-leading companies such as Irisette, Billerbeck and Frankenstolz will be present. Mascioni from Italy and Dún or Fior from Iceland are new to the fair. In Rössle & Wanner, Heimtextil also welcomes a renowned supplier of premium mattresses and a market leader in the field of manually and motor-driven adjustable slatted frames. Rössle & Wanner will exhibit its Röwa brand products in Galleria 1.    

Home collections by international fashion labels such as Joop Living, Marc O' Polo and Esprit can be seen in hall 11.0. In addition, premium providers will also be presenting their new products in a lifestyle-oriented environment. The companies will present their contemporary and modern as well as classic and elegant approaches in hall 11.1. Among those represented with collections of the highest quality are Schlossberg from Switzerland, Collection Stiegler and Curt Bauer from Germany, Kas International from Australia, Martinelli Ginetto from Italy, Sorema from Portugal and Welspun from the UK.

Heimtextil will also be introducing a new product group:

the “All about pets” section presents selected suppliers of textiles and accessories for animals. In Galleria 0, beds for dogs and cats, pillows, cosy blankets and much more are on offer. Darling Little Place and Studio am Meer from Germany, Lex & Max from the Netherlands and Volentis from Switzerland will be among the exhibitors.

“Interior. Architecture. Hospitality”: contract furnishing as a top theme

A central role in the trade fair’s programme is played by the range of contract furnishings and fittings, which Heimtextil sums up under the title “Interior.Architecture.Hospitality”. With the Interior.Architecture.Hospitality Expo, Heimtextil is launching a new event format in hall 4.2. The following renowned suppliers will be presenting their textile products and material solutions in an exclusive setting: Drapilux-Schmitzwerke, Low & Bonar, Gerriets and Maasberg from Germany, Forster Rohner from Switzerland, Chieftain Fabris from Ireland as well as The Cotting Group (Griffine) and Senfa from France. They are aimed specifically at architects, interior decorators, interior designers, project planners and hoteliers. The Expo's offer encompasses both aesthetic and functional answers to questions regarding modern, sustainable design, as well as fire protection regulations and structural requirements. A four-day lecture programme, guided tours of the exhibitors and a special catalogue of exhibitors (the “Contract Guide”) also provide in-depth information on the subject of contract furnishings.

Carpet show reveals benefits of textile floor coverings

Whether in hotels, restaurants, theatres, on trains or in private residences – with textile flooring, rooms can be designed to be comfortable, warm underfoot and individual. The numerous advantages of textile floor coverings will be showcased in a tangible way at Heimtextil 2018. With its presentation in hall 4.2 “Carpet by Heimtex”, the German Association of Home Textile Manufacturers is targeting architects and contract decision-makers in an architectural environment in particular. Employees of the Heimtex member companies such as Findeisen, German Rugs, Object Carpet, TOUCAN-T, Vorwerk and Weseler Teppich will offer advice on acoustics, modularity and design in relation to textile floor coverings.

Heimtextil “Theme Park”: the furnishing trends of the future

The programme highlight for those interested in design is the “Theme Park” in hall 6.0. In this trend and inspiration area, visitors and exhibitors alike can look forward to a wealth of material innovations, colour trends and new designs. The overarching theme is “The Future is urban”. An accompanying programme of talks and guided tours will give far-reaching insights into new design projects. For the 2018/19 season, a team of seven international design studios have isolated the most important themes from various general trends. The London-based studio Franklin Till was in charge of the design of the “Theme Park” in hall 6.0.

• Companies want stay away from cheap contract manufacturing

Istanbul (GTAI) - The highly export-oriented Turkish textile and clothing industry wants to increase its competitiveness on world markets by investing in design. The hitherto widespread contract manufacturing for foreign brand manufacturers is losing importance in favor of own collections. With a law from 2016, the Turkish state explicitly promotes investment in design.

The Turkish textile and clothing industry is going through a structural change: While the garment industry was once particularly interesting because of the comparatively low labor costs for contract manufacturing orders from Western companies, Turkish manufacturers are increasingly working as designers for international clients. In addition to well-known Turkish fashion manufacturers such as Ipekyol, Vakko and Zorluteks, more and more Turkish textile companies are also manufacturing and marketing their own brands. In parallel, they are expanding their online sales network. For example, Ipekyol intends to close half of its stores in the next 20 years.

In order to meet the changing demand of foreign cooperation partners, Turkish clothing companies are increasingly investing in research and development projects, as the Turkish business magazine Ekonomist reports.

For example, Hassan Tekstil (http://www.hassan.com.tr) based in Istanbul, founded in 2017, has a 45-member R & D department. The company, whose revenues of USD 232 mio in 2016 were generated 35 percent from exports, plans to spend1.5 percent of its revenue on R & D activities.    

Another company that is increasingly investing in R & D and design is TYH Tekstil (http://www.tyh.com.tr) in Istanbul. This purely export-oriented company with a turnover of around USD 100 mio (2016) employs 15 fashion experts. About 1.5 to 2 percent of sales, which will reach around USD 130 mio in 2017, will be used for design projects and the development of collections, according to the Economist's report. In addition to contract manufacturing for well-known international brands such as Gant and COS, TYH Tekstil also developed its own brand Roqa for women's outerwear. Meanwhile, 20 to 25 percent of exports are from the supply of private label products.

Innovative workwear for security forces

According to Economist, another manufacturer with increasing R & D activities is Narkonteks (http://www.narkonteks.com) in Izmir. This company, which does not produces for international companies only, produces also goods under its own brand "Blackspade". Narkonteks also supplies customers in the Netherlands with technical textiles for security personnel. The manufacturer employs 30 engineers for its R & D activities. Of the targeted sales of TL 100 mio in 2017, 1.5 percent will be spent on R & D activities.

In 2016 Narkonteks generated around TL 80 mio. (1 Euro = 4.50 TL). The company Farb Textile (http://www.farbetextile.com) in Izmir, which sews for European fashion companies such as Bestseller, Inditex and Mango, emphasizes increased design activities also, according to Economist. About 60 percent of the production are own brands. The turnover of TL 100 mio (2016), should be increased to TL 130 mio.
 
One of the larger R & D investors is the clothing manufacturer Taypa Tekstil in Istanbul (http://www.taypa.com.tr) with a turnover of EUR 100 million, which exports about 80 percent of its production. The parent company TAy Group, which supplies large fashion houses such as Levis, Inditex and Tommy Hilfiger, uses 5 percent of its revenue for research and innovation projects and employs 25 designers, writes the magazine Ekonomist. The share of own brands in sales of currently 21 percent is to be increased to 50 percent in the foreseeable future.

Taypa invests in major project in Algeria

In addition to the existing production in Egypt Taypa Tekstil manufactures in Serbia and Algeria. In a clothing factory in Kraljevo, Serbia, EUR 35 mio should be invested over the next five years. A large-scale project called "TayalSPA" is being planned in Algeria for the construction of an integrated textile and clothing factory in the Sidi Khetab industrial zone in the province of Relizane. According to Taypa CEO Burak Karaarslan, quoted in the business paper "Dünya", this project, with an support of 50 percent by the Algerian government will receive investments totaling USD 2 billion in three phases until 2023.

USD 800 mio will be invested in the recently started initial construction phase. The company will start with yarn production first. Thereafter, from the end of 2018, the production of denim and other fabrics will commence. After completion of the first phase, the annual production will reach 30 million meters of denim and non-denim fabrics, 14 million meters of fabrics for shirts, 3,200 tons of knitwear and 30 million pieces of ready-made garments.    

Government encourages investment in research and development

The Turkish state has been promoting investments in design since 2016: By Law No. 6676 of February16th 2016 (Government Gazette "Resmi Gazete" No. 29636 of 26.02.16) amending Law No. 5746 of 28.02.08 on the promotion R & D activities, in contrast to the previous practice, investment in design projects were concluded in the government support. Thus, companies that employ at least 15 people (previously 30) in the R & D sector can benefit from tax and customs privileges. Imported products for research projects are exempt from import duties.

Comprehensive support measures in the form of project-based grants for the marketing of Turkish brands abroad also include Regulation No. 2016/1 of the Turkish Monetary Credit and Coordination Council, which was announced in the Official Gazette No. 29898 of November 24th 2016. The implementation of subsidies is the responsibility of the Ministry of Economy.

According to figures from the Ministry of Science, Industry and Technology, there are a total of 38 R & D and 29 design centers nationwide in the textile and clothing industry.

Germany is most important target market

Turkey is a major exporter of textiles and clothing. According to official statistics, the country exported USD 24.3 billion worth of textiles and clothing in 2016 (including USD 16.7 billion in ready-to-wear articles). The export association IHKIB is targeting USD 60 billion in ready-to-wear exports in 2023. In apparel, Germany is the most important customer with a share of 18.8 percent. For textiles and textile raw materials, the country is the fourth largest market for Turkish exporters with 5 percent.     

Source: Export Association IHKIB; Turkish Ministry of Economy

Source: IHKIB; Ministry of Economy

Source: IHKIB; Ministry of Economy

Source: IHKIB; Ministry of Economy  

• New hall configuration and venue layout
• Keynote theme “UNIQUE YOUNIVERSE” brought to life in amazing immersive display zones by exhibitors, artists and emerging designers 
• New Friday-to-Monday run of the show

• New event format for interior design:
  Interior.Architecture.Hospitality Expo
• Exhibitors showcase their range of services relating to the focal theme “customised”

Textile solutions for interior design, architecture and hotel furnishing convince above all in terms of their flexibility, functionality and sustainability. With the Interior.Architecture.Hos-pitality Expo, there is now a new exhibition format dedicated to this issue. The Expo will take place in Frankfurt from 9 to 12 January 2018 within Heimtextil, the world's leading trade fair for home and contract textiles.

Selected suppliers will present their textile products and material solutions in the exclusive surroundings of the new Expo in hall 4.2. In this way, they can position themselves to specifically target interior designers, hoteliers and project planners. The Expo's offer encompasses both aesthetic and functional answers to questions regarding modern, sustainable design, as well as fire protection regulations and structural requirements.
Exhibitors at the Expo will present their products relating to the “customised” theme in the form of individual customer-oriented solutions. New products and innovations in acoustic textiles, modular carpets and wall coverings are also included. Trade visitors can discuss their current projects directly with the exhibiting companies in order to find solutions for their concrete design or application-related questions. The first brand companies to announce their participation include Drapilux and Low & Bonar.
 
Interior.Architecture.Hospitality – focal theme: contract furnishing
With the Expo, Heimtextil is expanding its range of offers for the contract segment, bundling them under the title “Interior.Architecture.Hospitality”. In addition to the Expo, this also comprises a high-quality presentation and training program for interior designers, architects and hotel furnishers, the Architecture.Hospitality Lectures and Interior.Architecture.Hospitality Tours, and guided tours of the trade fair that are tailored to the specific interests and requirements of architects or hoteliers. The starting point for the guided tours is the Interior.Architecture.Hospitality Salon in the centre of hall 4.2, which also invites colleagues to network with each other. Well-known industry partners have been secured both for the tours and lectures, such as the Association of German Interior Designers (BDIA), the industry event organiser hotelforum management, trade magazine AIT, the Allgemeine Hotel und Gaststättenzeitung (AHGZ) and, for the first time, the international architect network World Architects.

Inspiration and innovation within the vicinity of the Expo
Hall 4.2 is also the location for a new special presentation on textile floor coverings initiated by the Association of the German Home Textiles Industry (Heimtex). The themes of modularity, acoustics and design are showcased in an architecture-focused environment using textile floor coverings. Architects and contract furnishers will receive comprehensive and expert advice on these three main themes as well as all other issues relating to carpets.
The innovative fibre manufacturer Trevira will also be present in hall 4.2 for the first time as part of a big community presentation comprising 18 participating firms, including Engelbert E. Stieger, Johan van den Acker, Pugi, Spnadauer Velours, Swisstulle and Torcitura Lei Tsu.
A globally unique range of upholstery and decorative fabric offers with over 400 exhibitors can be found in hall 4 in the direct vicinity of the Expo. Visitors to the Expo will benefit from its proximity to the stands of high-quality international suppliers such as Deltracon and Muvantex from Belgium, Erotex from Israel, Loro Piana and Tali from Italy and Blom Liina Maria from Finland. The upholstery and decorative fabrics provide a comprehensive product offer that meets the highest aesthetic and functional requirements of interior design.

• Japan replaces Germany as the most important supplier of textile machines
• Digitization is the trend of the future

Beijing (GTAI) - China, the largest apparel export apparel nation, is losing international market share due to rising personnel costs. The companies react with increased automation and production dis-placements. While imports of textile machines from Japan are gro-wing, deliveries from Germany are falling above average. The next wave of modernization will involve more digitization.

Internationally, the PRC is by far the largest exportation nation of clothing. According to UN Comtrade after decades of ascent the peak seems to have crossed in 2014 with a record share of global clothing exports of 39.3%. Since then things are developing slowly but continuously downwards. In 2016, the Chinese share was estimated to be 37.1% (compared to 3.8% in Germany).  China loses market shares particular in favor of ASEAN countries such as Vietnam, Bangladesh or India. 

1) from 2014 estimation of world export; 2) based on information provided by partner countries; Source: UN Comtrade

Domestic textile machine manufacturers catching up

In fact, the Chinese textile industry is under considerable pressure because of the increase in personnel expenses. According to a Euromonitor study, the hourly wages of Chinese workers tripled between 2005 and 2016 from USD 1.20 to USD 3.60. Thus the People's Republic not only left classic emerging countries like Thailand ( USD 2.20 ) or Mexico (USD 2.20) behind  - not to mention USD 0.70 in India - but is already approaching individual European countries like Portugal (USD 4,50).

More information (in German) on wages and salary costs in China can be found at:
http://www.gtai.de/GTAI/Navigation/DE/Trade/Maerkte/Geschaeftspraxis/lohn-und-lohnnebenkosten,t=lohn-und-lohnnebenkosten--vr-china,did=1718070.html

Many companies face the challenge by greater automation. The Chinese textile companies can increasingly rely on textile machinery made in the country itself. While in 2016, according to official statistics, investments in the sector rose by 8.5% year on year to Yuan 1,142.4 billion (RMB, around USD 172 billion, 1 USD =6.642 RMB, annual average price in 2016), imports of textile machinery fell by 12.5% to USD 2.8 billion. However, there are no statistics on the extent to which sales are distributed by purely local companies or to those with a foreign background.

The fact is that, for example, German textile machine manufacturers have invested heavily locally in recent years in order for being able to meet the needs of their local customers. Against this backdrop, Germany was still able to defend its top spot with an import share of 29.5% against Japan in 2016, but had to cope with a strong minus of 30.6%, while the Japanese increased by 5.8%. Italy, ranked third and the most important Europe an competitor recorded a drop of 16.1%.

Source: China Customs, GTAI calculation

In the current year 2017, however, the Japanese seem to take the rank of the competitor Germany with an increase of 51% in the first four months. The overall textile machinery import grew by a strong 19.7% after the weak previous year before. Import from Germany however did not benefit from this and fell by 8.9%. As a result the German share of machinery supply decreased from 29.5% (2016 as a whole) to 25.0% in the first four months of 2017, while Japanese companies increased their share from 26.9% to 31.9%.

Source: China Customs, GTAI calculations

Production shift continues

Many Chinese textile companies are also thinking about a dislocation production - either to cheaper foreign countries or to the more favorable Chinese hinterland. In 2016, the Autonomous Region of Xinjiang became the main destination for new settlements in the western part of the People's Republic. On average, two new textile factories were opened every day in Xinjiang.

The regional textile industry office in Xinjiang is expecting an even greater run for 2017, thanks to massive political and financial support. Many jobs however are not created there. On-site visitors report about state-of-the-art facilities operated by only a few specialists. The political message is clear: Chinese textile production should remain in the country, be of a higher quality and, if necessary, be reoriented in the direction of technical textiles.However, at least private fashion manufacturers are skeptical about whether the politically favored "Go-West" actually pays for them. Because there too, wages are likely to rise sooner or later, according to the justified Apprehension.

The fact that Vietnam, Bangladesh, South Korea and Cambodia have entered the league of important PRC purchasing countries within a few years is a result not least of the fact that Chinese (and other) manufacturers already have dislocated production capacities. They return their products from there for sale to China.Nevertheless, the very large displacement wave so far has not yet happened. In fact, certain limits are imposed on the shift, since the target countries often encounter their capacity limits. Added to this is the extraordinary advantageous network of the various production stages in China: from cotton harvesting to textile processing and final finishing.

Future theme digitization As part of the country-wide "Made in China 2025" strategy, the textile industry is trying to exploit the many and new opened possibilities of digitization. In view of the increasing individualization of consumption, more machines will probably be required in the future, which are, for example, able to knit sweaters according to the size, color and pattern of the individual customer. In principle, intelligent networking of production, real shops and e-commerce are seen as the challenge of the future.

• But industry continues to be in a crisis
• Germany leading textile machinery supplier again

Teheran (GTAI) - Iran's large, traditional textile and clothing industry fights against foreign competition. Although the manufacturers are protected against imports by import tariffs, industry representatives and the Ministry of Industry are talking about massive illegal imports. In order to improve competitiveness, investments in new plants are necessary, but the companies often lack the necessary financial resources. Textile machines from Germany are in high demand.

Although the Ministry of Industry reports growth for several sectors of the textile and clothing industry for 2015/16 (Iranian year 1394, 03. 21.15 to 03. 20.16), the increased production level remains far below capacity. The data on the average utilization varies greatly, but no estimate is more than 50%, some company representatives report even 30% only. The industry also suffers from quality problems, which are mainly due to the outdated machinery park.
According to official data, there are almost 10,000 factories with about 290,000 employees in the textile and clothing sector. The industry, which is characterized by private ownership, is by government announcements often referred to as a promising economic sector with potential. Nevertheless, according to criticism it is lacking in the necessary support.

Approximately 400 mostly medium and large textile and clothing manufacturers are organized in the Association of Iran Textile Industries (http://aiti.org.ir). The spectrum of the association members ranges from cotton spinning and weaving mills to producers of acrylic and polyester yarns, synthetic fibers, machine-made carpets, wall-to-wall carpet floors, woolen and other blankets and bedspreads, clothing and up to manufacturers of textile machines and spare parts.

The main problem of the Iranian textile and clothing industry is the competition from abroad, particularly from the PR of China and Turkey. The re-exports via the Dubai trade hub have to be added too. Partially high import tariffs are intended to protect the domestic market, but a large part of the imports arrives illegally into the country. A duty of 55% is currently levied on clothing and a reduced rate of 33% applies to deliveries from Turkey. For fabrics 32% are due.

Great interest in modern technology
The Iranian textile industry wants to strengthen its competitiveness both on the domestic and international markets through the modernization of its machinery. The great interest of the sector companies in new technology shows the strong response to conferences and seminars offered by European associations and companies.

In April 2015, the  GermanTextile Machinery Association VDMA organized a symposium in Tehran in anticipation of the strong easing of Iran sanctions. About 1,100 local company representatives were able to study the offers from the 36 German textile machinery and accessories manufacturers.
The event showed the interest of the Iranian companies to look for solutions to improve their mostly old, often decades old facilities.

A considerable part of the machinery park came from Europe as already used equipment. A problem were the continuing export controls also. According to industry representatives replacement procurements were made difficult because many parts are classified as dual-use goods. Organizations from Italy and Switzerland also have organized information events for Iran's textile industry.

Machinery import decreased again
The interest in modern technology however leads to limited investments only. Due to the weak financial strength of a large part of the industrial enterprises, intensified state support measures, in particular favorable loans, are requested. The banks lend credits to textile companies with great restraint only and demand high interest rates. According to Iranian customs despite the difficult situation textile and clothing machinery worth USD 324 million were imported in 2015/16. However - this was 11% less than in 2014/15 (USD 364 million).

Source: Eurostat

Germany is traditionally the leading textile machinery supplier in Iran, followed by Italy. However, the sanction phase brought a turnaround in favor of Asian suppliers. According to VDMA calculations, the most important suppliers of textile machinery exported to Iran in 2013 a value of EUR 85 million only (excluding dryers, and clothing and leather technology), of which 33% were attributed to the PRC, followed by Germany (16%), Turkey (12%), Korea (Rep., 7%) and Italy (5%). Deliveries of clothing and leather technology amounted to EUR 113 million in 2013, led by Korea (Rep.) with 53%, the PRC reached 36%, Germany came to 0.3% only.

The VDMA data for 2015 show for textile machinery Germany as the leading supplier again. At the textile machinery exported to Iran German suppliers accounted for a share of 30%, the PRC fell to 22%, Turkey reached 12%, Korea (rep.) 6% and Italy 4 %. In the clothing and leather technology the Chinese-Korean dominance remained in 2015 (PRC: 49% from EURO 131 million and Korea (rep.): 41%)..

Source: China Customs

According to Eurostat exports of textile, clothing and leather industry machines of the EU28 Group to Iran increased between 2013 and 2015 from EUR 38 million to EUR 89, with Germany accounting for 42% respectively 55%. Italy delivered EUR 10.4 million in 2015 (2014: EUR 14.0 million, 2013: 6.3 million). The deliveries of the EU28 Group and Germany also were declining in 2016.

Destination Mauritius - rebuiding former relationsships

Island of dreams in the middle of the Indian ocean for some travellers neighbouring the last European outpost, French overseas department La Réunion, a destination for reliable production of textiles and apparel for the European, notably German fashion market, this is the spectrum
of associations that Mauritius evokes in the heads of people. Mauritius looks back on a long time experience in producing textiles and apparel since its independence from Britain in 1968. Republic since 1992 the group of islands is one of the very few stable democracies in Africa.

Arvind Radhakrishna, CEO of Enterprise Mauritius, the organiser of the Mauritius day, April 5, 2017 at Düsseldorf Fashion House II, gives it a strong regret that the relation between Mauritius and Germany, mainly based on knitwear, dating back in the early 70ies nearly came to an end. The amount of textile exports into Germany in 2015 was just about 30 million Euros and counting. Anyhow this does not represent the strength of the Mauritian apparel industry which is a hub in the region with own inland production completed by production plants on the neighbour island Madagascar, in South Africa and some even in Bangladesh to serve a lower price level, which cannot be achieved with Mauritian production itself. In 2015, domestic exports to Europe accounted for 40 %, USA: 24% and South Africa: 21%. Charming is the fact that the delivery of Mauritian goods is duty free.

Strong support by the government

Interested buyers are heartily invited to come and see with their own eyes what the Mauritian textile and apparel industry can offer. This industry is one of the strong pillars of the gross domestic output. Others are tourism and - up and coming - the lapidary and jewellery industry. Traditional fields of production are spices, sugarcane products including rum or cosmetics.

To foster textiles and apparel exports the government sponsors airfreight costs by 40%, part of a holistic program in the speed to market scheme. To compare the benefits of Mauritius as a sourcing destination compared for example with China, besides the shorter distance, is that the minimum order quantities per style are much smaller than in China, the quality standard is high, the social compliance is given. Mauritian companies must spend 1% of their gains for Corporate Social Responsibility – CSR projects. Certificates such as BSCI, SA8000 or WRAP are common. Free entry to the EU market is guaranteed by the EU partnership agreement. And - a point that should not be neglected - most of the companies offer creative services executed by their inhouse design departments or people. This makes it clearer why the textile and apparel industry had been a strong engine for economic growth in Mauritius.

Main products are: T-Shirts, Polo Shirts, Shirts, Trousers & Denim, Pullovers & Cardigans, Formal Suits, Beachwear & Underwear, and Childrenswear etc. Main material used: cotton and its blends. There is a strong focus on knitted fabrics and jerseys of all kind paired with woven denims. The price segment of Mauritian clothing mainly ranges in the lower middle range. There is a high awareness for sustainability. The exporting companies aim to use eco-friendly substances in resources saving production processes. Laser technology for effects on denim is widely in use.

A look to the companies presenting

• FINE TEXTILES LTD
  Contact: Mamade Nohur 
  Tel.: +230 2661092/57321079
  E-mail: finetextileltd@gmail.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Polo shirts/T-shirts/Sweat shirts
  Minimum order: 600 pcs. per colour
  Fine Textiles mostly produce menswear. They distribute their garments under own label M*RIYANO and private label for their customers. The own label is calculated to compete with the Chinese market. Time from sample to delivery takes about 5 to 6 weeks.

• FIREMOUNT TEXTILES LTD / FM DENIM LTD
  Contact: Sangeeta Gobin
  Tel.: +230 2075836
  Email: sangeeta@firemount.mu
  Website: www.firemount.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim fabrics & Denim and Twill Jeans pants/Jackets/shirts/Shorts/Dresses
  Minimum order: 6000-7000 yd. fabric or 2500-3000 pcs. of jeans per order
  Certifications: WRAP
  The company is fully vertical and the biggest supplier of apparel in Mauritius, still growing, looking for direct relations to retailers. Due to the latest technologies available, the company aims to fulfil the needs for sustainable production. Stretch, even power stretch is used in nearly every jeans style.

• TEX KNITS LTD
  Contact: Suresh Radha
  Tel.: +230 2865577
  Email: info@texinternational.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim trousers, jackets, shirts etc. /Knitted garments for ladies, men and children
  Minimum order: 800 pcs. per style/colour
  Certifications: Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit (SMETA)
  The knits company is part of a group offering garments in a broad range. To serve the UK market they run an office in London. The company puts a strong focus on design input for the international clients. Production plants in Madagascar and Bangladesh serves different price ranges.

• PALMAR LTEE
  Contacts: Yannick Capiron (Knits), Genevieve Marie Figaro (Denim)
  Tel.: +230 401 7000
  Email: y.capiron@palmar.intnet.mu; gfigaro@palmar.intnet.mu
  Type: CMT & Final Product
  Products: Jeans, Chinos, Shorts, Dresses, Skirts for kids, Women & Men
  Minimum order: 600 pcs. for jerseys; 800 pcs. for jeans
  Over two thirds of the production is for menswear. The company is a family business which takes special interest in sustainable and resources saving production. The knitting department is fully
  vertically integrated. A fair trade line is being offered, pure organic is in development.Contact: Ranil Gunasekara
  Tel.: +230 4130034
  Email: camdenimltd@gmail.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim jeans for men, women, children and toddlers
  Minimum order: 1200 per style
  The company solely works for private labels. The main market until now is South Africa. The production is going to be shifted to a higher percentage of eco-friendly production, representing 17% for the time being. Prices range in the upper middle segment.

• TARA KNITWEAR LTD
  Contact: Fabiola Law
  Tel.: +230 2123715/52553621
  Email: fabiolalaw@taragroup.intnet.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: T-shirt, polo shirt, sweat shirt, hoody, short, pant, skirt, dress, baby grow, baby/kid swear accessories (beanie, bootie, blanket, sleeping bag, headband), sleepwear, loungewear
  Minimum order: Basic styles: 4000 units. Fancy styles: 1000-2000 units
  Certifications: BSCI
  Tara is very design oriented with a big in house design department open for design services to customers too. The company's organisation is vertically integrated. Modern equipment such as the
  Eton Mover system enables the company to react fast and operate Fast Track orders too.

• BEACHWEAR EXPORTS
  Contact: Mr. G.M Toolsee
  Tel.: +230 4545600
  Email: girdhar@beachwear.intnet.mu/beachwear@intnet.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Swimwear and related products
  Minimum order: 300-500 units per style
  Certification: BSCI, SMETA, SEDEX
  All production is for private label. The company features as the leading supplier of swim and beach wear in Mauritius. Well known international brands are customers from US to Europe, mainly in Italy, France and UK as well as South Africa and Zimbabwe.