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GDS on the fairground of Messe Duesseldorf © Messe Duesseldorf/ctillmann
14.02.2017

SHOE SECTOR BIDS FAREWELL TO GDS

7 to 9 February 2017 saw the last GDS being held on the premises of Messe Düsseldorf. This was the 123rd edition of the tradition-rich event. Since Tuesday afternoon we have also known something else for sure, too: not only the organiser and venue will change but also the name. The Igedo Company will present its shoe trade show at Areal Böhler as Gallery SHOES.

7 to 9 February 2017 saw the last GDS being held on the premises of Messe Düsseldorf. This was the 123rd edition of the tradition-rich event. Since Tuesday afternoon we have also known something else for sure, too: not only the organiser and venue will change but also the name. The Igedo Company will present its shoe trade show at Areal Böhler as Gallery SHOES.

In keeping with this “passing of the baton” the evening event of GDS was also held at Areal Böhler on the first day of the trade show. Speaking before many representatives of the shoe sector, Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, President & CEO of Messe Düsseldorf, used the opportunity to acknowledge the efforts by the GDS team: “Kirstin Deutelmoser and her team have undertaken extraordinary efforts over the years and introduced innovations into the shoe shows time and again. And even the last event was designed with full professionalism and provided visitors with a comprehensive overview of the market. My thanks also go to the sector: GDS only managed to remain such an outstanding meeting point for decades on end thanks to the support from trade and industry. I wish the Igedo Company the best of success for its new concept.”

During the press conference on the first day of the trade show Kirstin Deutelmoser, Director of GDS and tag it!, referred to GDS’ longstanding tradition on the one hand, and the fundamental changes occurring in the footwear sector, on the other: “Around the turn of the millennium GDS registered most visitors. People came to Düsseldorf to discover the new collections and – just as importantly – to network.
But over the past few years the world started turning faster. New players entered the market. The retailscape experienced constant change. And since trade shows are also always mirror images of the market this extreme dynamism within the footwear sector also impacted GDS.
Its own history proved a burden rather than a benefit: regardless of how much you alter a GDS – it will always be measured by its own most successful edition.
We therefore decided it was time for a complete “re-boot”; and to create something new you have to be free of existing structures and traditions. This is why we will hand over the shoe trade show after this GDS to the Igedo Company thereby enabling a complete re-start with completely new structures and signals.
I thank all of those who have accompanied and supported us over so many decades – especially our customers, exhibitors and visitors alike, the many partners of GDS and my great team.
I wish the Igedo Company and Ulrike Kähler, in particular, great success with the new format. And my particular hope is that the sector will make use of the opportunities that come with the re-launch of a footwear trade show.”

GDS with Powerful Farewell Programme

The last GDS offered visitors a comprehensive range of information. 600 brands presented their new collections and the trade show had prepared all the trends of relevance to the 2017/18 Autumn/Winter season for retailers offering concrete services for purchasing and merchandising with the GDS Trend Talks, Trend Codes and Trend Spots.
A special focus for coming Autumn/Winter are sturdy laced and biker boots. Weather permitting, futurist sneakers will also be determining the look on our streets – either in clean white or with prints, another trend theme displayed by many exhibitors.

The talks delivered by the Innovation and Education Institute SLEM headquartered in the Netherlands revolved around manufacturing rather than design. Visitors learnt which technologies will change the future of footwear production.

Alain-Fabien Delon (22), son of legendary actor Alain Delon, caused one last flurry of camera flashes at GDS, when he strolled through the STUDIO Halls during the Press Walk and browsed the latest men’s styles. The exhibitors befittingly used GDS as a stage to present their brands with catwalk shows or dance performances. 

Fashion bloggers and influencers made sure the new footwear trends were also shared on social media. How this actually works was illustrated in detail to interested retailers and manufacturers at the Social Media Consulting sessions.

The first Gallery SHOES will be held from 27 to 29 August 2017. Relevant details will be published at www.igedo.com.

The Poles like new Clothes for themselves © Hardy5 / pixelio.de
22.11.2016

THE POLES LIKE NEW CLOTHES FOR THEMSELVES

  • German fashion demanded
  • Shoe chain CCC is expanding

Warsaw (GTAI) - The demand for textiles, clothing and footwear is developing particularly dynamic in Poland in 2016. These items are also popular Christmas gifts. Despite strong competition, Germany remains the third-largest foreign supplier of clothing and continues to grow. The German online retailer Zalando is building its first huge logistics center in Poland. The Discounter KiK is opening further branches. The domestic shoe chain CCC is expanding.

  • German fashion demanded
  • Shoe chain CCC is expanding

Warsaw (GTAI) - The demand for textiles, clothing and footwear is developing particularly dynamic in Poland in 2016. These items are also popular Christmas gifts. Despite strong competition, Germany remains the third-largest foreign supplier of clothing and continues to grow. The German online retailer Zalando is building its first huge logistics center in Poland. The Discounter KiK is opening further branches. The domestic shoe chain CCC is expanding.

Retail sales of textiles, clothing and footwear are the fastest growing of all product groups in Poland. According to the Statistical Office (GUS) (http://stat.gov.pl), the real growth rate reached 15.8% in the first three quarters of 2016 compared to January to September 2015. The total retail sales rose by 5.3% in the same time. The forthcoming Christmas business is expected to further stimulate the demand for fashion items. The in the current year introduced children's allowance also will heat the purchase power of the Poles.

Sales value of clothing and footwear in Poland (in Zl billion)
2012 2013 2014 2015 1) 2016 2) 2017 2)
28.7 28.9 31.8 33.4 35.3 37.1

1) Estimation, 2) Forecast
Source: Market research company PMR

First and foremost, growing is the demand for common items in the lower, middle and upper segment. Clothing manufacturers however in the luxury category do not benefit from the rising demand. According to the consulting firm KPMG, the poles spent in 2015 about 14.3 billion Zloty (Zl, about EUR 3.4 billion, 1 EUR = 4.1841, average price 2015) for luxury goods, including Zl 2,065 billion for clothing and accessories. These, however, form an important product group and rank second behind passenger cars (ZI 6.974 billion).

The largest domestic clothing company LPP  also felt the fact that the demand potential in the precious segment is limited. The company is known for its brands for everyone, especially "Reserved", which generates almost half (47%) of its revenues. At the beginning of 2016 LPP launched its new premium brand "Tallinder". After the sales however remained below the expectations, LPP announced the gradual abandonment of this project in September 2016.    

Tallinder was supposed to compete with the established gents brands and suppliers of other high-quality clothing names like Vistula, Bytom and Prochnik. The market leader in men's clothing Vistula, which also includes the jewelry chain "W.Kruk" and the brand of women's wear Deni Cler, expects in 2016 (2015) an increase of ZI 590 (518)  million and of its net profit to ZI 37.0 (28.3) million. Bytom follows far behind with projected revenues of ZI 154 (131) million and a net profit of EUR 14.1 (12.4) million.
 
CCC is aiming abroad

Due to the growing demand, the number of specialist stores for clothing is growing, according to GUS us to around 37,100 until the end of 2015 (2014: 35,900) . At the same time the number of stores for shoes and leather goods, which amounted to 8,200 (8,300) in 2015, fell slightly. One reason for this is the proliferation of relevant trade chains, such as the shoe chain CCC, which contributes to a consolidation, and the increasing online trade.

In 2016 alone CCC opens around 40 new stores in Poland and increases its sales area by 20 to 30% annually. In 2016 this will increase by 105,000 sqm and 2017 by 120,000 sqm (net). The trade chain is looking for additional franchisees in other European countries, now also in Asia and the USA. In the Russian Federation CCC wants to open large salons with about 1,000 square meters. According to the chain founder Dariusz Milek in an announcement of the daily paper Rzeczpospolita the presence in Ukraine, Belarus, Kazakhstan and Central European neighbors should be increased too.

The branch networks in Germany and Austria should not be increased further in the near future; In Austria there are already almost all of the targeted total 70 CCC stores.  Due to the lack of profit in these two countries, their share of the group’s total income, which is expected to reach some ZI 3.2 billion in 2016, should not exceed 10%. CCC also relies on e-commerce. After the trade chain had already acquired the online shop for shoes eobuwie.pl, it wants to start in spring 2017 with its own e-shop.

Polish imports of clothing exceed exports. The two main suppliers of textiles, China and Bangladesh, were able to further increase their deliveries to Poland in 2015. Germany also achieved growth and finished third. Slovakia has multiplied its exports. Among the customer countries Germany was by far the most important player with a further significant increase in its demand. The other ranks were followed by the Netherlands, Czech Republic, Austria, Sweden and other mostly European countries.

Polish foreign trade with clothing made out of woven fabrics (Zl million)
Customs tariff 6201 to 6209 2013 2014 2015
Import, thereof from: 5,392.4 6,910.0 8,589.6
.PR China 2,115.3 2,532.3 2,915.8
.Bangladesh 758.4 1,019.2 1,243.5
.Germany 522.1 607.7 745.4
.Turkey 290.6 404.3 570.9
.Slovakia 25.0 82.6 396.9
.India 258.8 329.9 366.7
Export, thereof to: 5,895.4 6,830.1 7.894.9
.Germany 2,997.3 3,677.7 4.388.0

Source: Central Statistical Office CIS

Germany is not only characterized by high-quality clothing and well-known brands in Poland. The in Europe leading chain KIK is spreading further in the neighboring country. By the end of 2017 the number of stores should increase to 200. Its first store in Poland KIK opened in March 2012.

E-commerce is likely to give further impetus to the German supply of clothing. The large online retailer Zalando is setting up its first logistics center in Poland in Gryfino in the area of the special economic zone Kostrzyn-Slubice (Küstrin-Frankfurt / O.) for an amount of EUR 150 million. According to the property developer Goodman, it will be the largest logistics area occupied by a single company in Poland. At the same time, it is one of the most extensive BTS (built-to-suit) projects in the country, in which an object is fully built according to the requirements of the future user. Its opening is scheduled for the second half of 2017. Zalando wants to supply from there Poland, the Nordic countries and a part of Germany.

Polish foreign trade with knitted clothing (in Mio. Zl)
Customs tariff  6101 to 6114 2013 2014 2015
Import, thereof from: 5,191.6 6,748.2 8,404.7
.PR China 1,574.1 1,970.7 2,378.5
.Bangladesh 903.2 1,258.8 1,583.4
.Germany 538.1 723.8 927.5
.Turkey 512.9 628.7 796.5
.Cambodia 235.4 464.3 586.7
Export, thereof to: 4,521.4 5,108.9 6,299.0
Germany 1,888.0 2,343.8 2,996.3

Source: Central Statistical Office CIS

 

Usbekistan invests USD 115 Millions in its shoe and leather industry © Vera/ pixelio.de
20.09.2016

UZBEKISTAN INVESTS USD 115 MILLION IN THE SHOE AND LEATHER INDUSTRY

Industry Association is searching for Business Partners

Tashkent (GTAI) - The Central Asian Republic of Uzbekistan is launching a new initiative for the modernization and expansion of its shoe and leather industry. Until 2020 numerous projects are planned to open foreign offering parties sales opportunities. In addition to machinery and equipment various supplies such as shoe parts, materials and chemicals are required. The majority of the sector companies concentrated in the industrial association O'zbekcharmpoyabzali.

Industry Association is searching for Business Partners

Tashkent (GTAI) - The Central Asian Republic of Uzbekistan is launching a new initiative for the modernization and expansion of its shoe and leather industry. Until 2020 numerous projects are planned to open foreign offering parties sales opportunities. In addition to machinery and equipment various supplies such as shoe parts, materials and chemicals are required. The majority of the sector companies concentrated in the industrial association O'zbekcharmpoyabzali.

The shoe and leather industry of Uzbekistan is facing a new wave of investment. In the years 2016-2020 the implementation of 82 projects for the establishment of new or for the expansion and modernization of existing capacities is planned. The commissioning of 48 new production facilities and the technical renewal or extension of 34 factories is provided. The for the projects necessary investments are estimated at USD 115 million.

Numerous business opportunities for foreign companies

The expansion and modernization projects offer a range of business opportunities to foreign companies. This applies to the supply of shoe parts, auxiliaries and additives, accessories and chemicals (tannins, fat accumulating and degreasing agents, aniline and pigments) as well as machinery and equipment, including used technology. In the tanneries and shoe factories mainly following types of equipment are required:

  • Vacuum dryer
  • Spiral blade for excarnation and planers
  • Electronic instruments for measuring the leather Surface
  • Slotting machines and squeezing machines
  • Sewing machines for shoe production
  • Hydraulic cutting machines
  • Splitting machines for shell Elements
  • Equipment for shoe assembly

In addition, some companies strive for the establishment of joint ventures with foreign capital participation.

Industry association O'zbekcharmpoyabzali coordinates investment projects

Behind the expansion and modernization program of the sector stands the Uzbek Association of Leather and Shoes O'zbekcharmpoyabzali. The majority of the companies of the industry are concentrated under its umbrella. The association today includes more than 80 manufacturers of raw material leather / finished leather (production of hard leather / foot and insole leather and soft leather / upper leather, including mainly chrome leather goods and Russia leather / fine calf leather for shoes), women, men, and children's footwear and gallantry leather accessories.

The in 2010 founded industry part-association is the central buying organization of raw- material leather and coordinates investments in the shoe and leather industry of the country. The association takes similarly care as its sister organization, the state joint stock company for the textile and clothing industry O'zbekyengilsanoat, which is comparable in the area of responsibility with as a small specialized ministry. 

A special professional association, which mainly would take care of the interests of private independent leather and shoe manufacturers, is not available in the country. Shoe producers, which are operating outside of the industry organization, represent about one third of the shoe production in Uzbekistan.

Annual production is expected to increase to USD 0.5 billion until 2020

The production of goods of the O'zbekcharmpoyabzali enterprises is expected to reach a volume of USD 140 million in 2016. In comparison to 2010 that would be a tenfold. In 2016 8.7 million pair of shoes are expected to be produced (2010: 3.1 million pairs). The expectation for 2020 is a production of goods in an amount of USD 476 million. Exports are assumed to rise from USD 191 (forecast for 2016) to USD 301 million in 2020. Shoes and other leather goods are currently being exported to the PR of China, to Pakistan, Turkey, India, Kazakhstan, Korea (Rep.), Italy, Spain and the United Kingdom. 

But - the new industry program remains far behind the original goals. The investment program for the period 2011 to 2015 provided an increase of shoe production by 120% to 14.2 million pair in comparison to 2011. The production of leather should rise by 90% (to 468 million qdm), of leather clothes by 720% as well as leather accessories by 40%.

From 2008/09 the industry showed a clear uptrend. However, the situation in the industry began to worsen again in 2012/13. As the main reasons for this market experts identified this mainly with liquidity problems of the companies, major difficulties in currency conversion and associated restrictions on the procurement of supplies from abroad and a general deterioration of the business climate in the country.
The production of leather, footwear and leather goods accounts now for only a fraction of the production of the late 1980s and early 1990s. In 1990 the companies still produced about 50 million pairs of shoes per year.

Die Produktion von Leder, Schuhen und Lederwaren macht heute nur einen Bruchteil der Produktion von Ende der 1980er und Anfang der 1990er Jahre aus. Im Jahr 1990 produzierten die Unternehmen noch circa 50 Mio. Paar Schuhe pro Jahr.

Contact addresses:

O´zbekiston charm va poyabzal ishlab chiqarish korxonalarining O´zbekcharmpoyabzali uyushmasi
(Association oft he leather and footwear enterprises of Usbekistan O´zbekcharmpoyabzali)
Mustakillik kuc., 109, 100192 Taschkent
Contact: Maksudshon Mansurow, chairman, Sharifshon Scheralijew, deputy chairman
Tel.: 00998 71/23052-80, Fax: -83
E-Mail: info@uzcharm.uz,  Internet: http://www.uzcharm.uz 

2017 Spring/Sommer Trends at the GDS shoe fair in Dusseldorf © Messe Düsseldorf / ctillmann 
02.08.2016

STEEP CAREER FOR SNEAKERS

Sneakers remain the megatrend par excellence in spring / summer 2017. There is no boredom coming up yet. The new shoe collections present themselves varied and innovative: Safari and ethno themes are reinterpreted. Soft romantic and playful decorations set new accents. Newcomers with potential are Mules and Sabots.

Sneakers remain the megatrend par excellence in spring / summer 2017. There is no boredom coming up yet. The new shoe collections present themselves varied and innovative: Safari and ethno themes are reinterpreted. Soft romantic and playful decorations set new accents. Newcomers with potential are Mules and Sabots.

While the consumer mood was positive in the first half of 2016 - the shoe retail sector unfortunately could barely benefit of it in many places. Sales in the first six months were two percent lower than last year. The weather conditions were anything but sales promotional: the last winter months were too mild, spring on the other hand was too cool. But this is just one of many causes for the sagging sales of shoe retailing. Deplored also is the loss of appeal of the inner cities and, related with this, the increasing trend of shoe purchasing in the Internet. For the stationary shoe trade this development represents a strong challenge which needs to be mastered. Hope puts the sector on the trend toward shortened trouser forms that lead more attention towards footwear. In the new season the shoe trade has to and wants to invest in target group-oriented shopping ambiance and in marketing methods to provide quality incentives. In many places the product mix has been send back to the testbed. Many traders therefore took advantage of the just ended GDS shoe fair in Dusseldorf in order to learn about the new trends for spring / summer 2017.

Sneakers continue their successful rise and belong to the generational and gender comprehensive trend shoes. The convenient slippers are now being used as footwear for the whole family, from the youngest to the elderly. This trend has often more to do with a sporty look than a sporty use, for many shoe wearer convenience has become a self-evidence. Clean and purist styled models standing next to styles of material mix: glitter, ornamental stones, mesh, metallics, reptile embossing, lasercut and neoprene come in use for the shoes. White soles are an important feature of the new sneaker.

Mules score in a new variety. In trend are toe gripers as well as mules in tube optics and wide (cross) bandages. For purchase incentives models with an anatomic formed footbed and soft uppers (like cork) should care.

Sabots, Mules and Babouch types are indispensable for the new season. The models are mostly flat and come along with slim borders. Very trendy are open toe shown mules with block heels.

Previously Espadrilles were worn only during the (beach) holiday, in the meantime these flat treads have blossomed into absolute trend-outfits. No wonder, because the new models are not only very comfortable, but super stylish also! Particularly noble shafts in a material mix like leather plus metallics come along. Trendy are also Espadrilles made out of linen, exotic printed, trimmed with stripes or sequins and pearls. Non-slipping rubber soles make the Mediterranean shoes now all-weather fit, regardless whether flat, with plateau or wedge.

Loafer with their androgynous variants like Brogue, Budapest and Monk remain important in the coming spring / summer season. It is important that the shoe is light. Filigree, unlined models made of soft suede compete with models with voluminous bottoms.

Sandals are an indispensable part of any summer collection. In addition to models with platform and wide drums are sportier variants. For innovations are sandals with block heels, T-clips and high-front cuts. Hardly to overlook are Lace-up Sandals, a mix of Roman-sandal and Ballerina.

The ethnic and safari trend remains unbroken in spring / summer. Shaft designs with colorful pompons, tassels, embroidery, pearls and braiding determine the optic. Thick, profiled soles ("Briquette plateau") or soles with "shark tooth" profiles have entered the mainstream. Ideal for women who like to “grow” a few centimeters without walking on high heels.

With the great demand for sneakers, the portion of high-tech materials is growing. Leather naturally will not be relinquished for shoes, especially not as soft nappa and suede. Very smooth and glossy surfaces are there among reptile embossing.

The color spectrum in the spring / summer 2017 is discreet. Monochrome color images produce a sustainably-quality look. From pearl gray to titanium ranges the gamut of grays. In addition there are clear, creamy tones with a touch of rosé, sandy shades and powdery-bright models.

Regardless whether as high heel or sneaker - metallic colors of "subtly iridescent" to "mega-glittery" light up many shoes. Silver, bronze and gold are not only trendy in fashion clothes, even the feet are decorated with it in the new season.

Workshop „Green Shoes for a Sustainable Life“  © Messe Duesseldorf
19.07.2016

INTERNATIONAL FOOTWEAR WORKSHOP “GREEN SHOES FOR A SUSTAINABLE LIFE” TO BE HELD DURING GDS

From 26 to 28 July 2016 trade visitors from the shoe sector will be able to learn about the current trends and innovations revolving around shoes and accessories at GDS – Global Destination for Shoes & Accessories in Düsseldorf. Since the awareness of sustainability in the European footwear sector is increasing and seen as a long-lasting trend in business strategies, the European Confederation of the Footwear Industry (CEC) together with the other European partners of the “Step To Sustainability” project call upon footwear companies to participate in the International Footwear Workshop on Sustainability. The workshop entitled “Green Shoes for a Sustainable life” will be organised at the GDS shoe fair on 28 July 2016. During the workshop, companies will learn how they can increase their business value and sales whilst having a positive influence on social and environmental conditions by adopting sustainable strategies.

From 26 to 28 July 2016 trade visitors from the shoe sector will be able to learn about the current trends and innovations revolving around shoes and accessories at GDS – Global Destination for Shoes & Accessories in Düsseldorf. Since the awareness of sustainability in the European footwear sector is increasing and seen as a long-lasting trend in business strategies, the European Confederation of the Footwear Industry (CEC) together with the other European partners of the “Step To Sustainability” project call upon footwear companies to participate in the International Footwear Workshop on Sustainability. The workshop entitled “Green Shoes for a Sustainable life” will be organised at the GDS shoe fair on 28 July 2016. During the workshop, companies will learn how they can increase their business value and sales whilst having a positive influence on social and environmental conditions by adopting sustainable strategies.

The workshop is being organised by the EU funded project “Step To Sustainability”, the aim of which is to create and pilot a new occupation and qualification profile and corresponding training course in the area of sustainable manufacturing in footwear. The project addresses the needs of companies wishing to engage in sustainable manufacturing by elaborating a new qualification profile, which will equip students with the necessary skills and competences to deal with sustainability issues and contribute to increasing the competitiveness of footwear manufacturers.

Applying sustainability to industry is also an important step to take. Environmental sustainability is certainly increasing in the European footwear sector. The footwear industry contributes to and is affected by the environmental degradation and social challenges that society is now facing. What initially was considered as an external environmental regulation to comply with, meaning an obligation, is now becoming part of the DNA of some companies. By introducing positive changes in production choices, companies can increase the popularity of their products and brand among consumers and business partners alike.

Carmen Arias Castellano, General Secretary of the CEC - European Confederation of the Footwear Industry stated: “Not only the environment benefits from a sustainable strategy. It also enhances social responsibility and will allow businesses to enjoy numerous advantages such as increasing revenue and cutting costs, increasing employee attraction and retention rates, creating a healthy workplace leading to greater productivity, and enhancing relationships with stakeholders and communities.”

At the workshop, there will be a presentation on the results of the Step To Sustainability project by a Portuguese SME, which participated in the pilot, as well as two panels of relevant industry representatives, who will explain best practices in the footwear sector. The first panel will focus on the manufacturing phase with presentations from El Naturalista and BATA Brands as well as the organisation LeatherNaturally; while the second will present the retailers’ approach to ensuring sustainability with contributions from Deichmann, Zumnorde, and Avocado Store GmbH.: www.cec-footwearindustry.eu

PAKISTAN’S TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY HAS TO INVEST © Jerzy Sawluk / pixelio.de
07.06.2016

PAKISTAN’S TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY HAS TO INVEST

  • INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION INCREASES
  • COMPANIES HAVE TO MODERNIZE PRODUCTION AND INCREASE DEPTH OF PROCESSING

Dubai / Islamabad (GTAI) - Pakistan's textile and clothing industry has urgently to invest. The international competition has intensified. The companies need to modernize their technology and increase their processing depth. The country wants to get away from the production of simple fabrics and yarns. The GSP Plus agreement with the EU and an improvement in the security situation have improved the investment climate. In high-end machines Pakistan is dependent on imports. 

  • INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION INCREASES
  • COMPANIES HAVE TO MODERNIZE PRODUCTION AND INCREASE DEPTH OF PROCESSING

Dubai / Islamabad (GTAI) - Pakistan's textile and clothing industry has urgently to invest. The international competition has intensified. The companies need to modernize their technology and increase their processing depth. The country wants to get away from the production of simple fabrics and yarns. The GSP Plus agreement with the EU and an improvement in the security situation have improved the investment climate. In high-end machines Pakistan is dependent on imports. 

Pakistan's textile and clothing industry expects better sales opportunities abroad in the next few years, particularly with the European Union. Early 2014 Pakistan has received from the EU the GSP Plus status (Generalized System of Preferences) that allows the country to supply goods at a lower rate of duty or even with a completely duty exempt in the EU. Particularly the textile and clothing industry benefits from the agreement, as the sector provides almost 80% of Pakistan's exports to the EU. The government even hopes on additional exports for the sector worth USD 1 billion per year.

Following the latest available trade figures, Pakistan increased in 2014, the year in which the GSP Plus agreement came into force, its total exports of clothing by almost 10% to around USD 5 billion. Official figures of exports to the EU are not available. According to the foreign trade statistics, in any case exports to Germany have increased in clothing by 13% to almost USD 500 million, in textiles by 18% to USD 434 million and in footwear by 27% to USD 34 million.

Pakistan's export of textiles, clothing and footwear (USD million)
SITC Productgroup 2013 2014 Change 2014/2013
Export        
65 Textiles 9,341 9.077 -2,8
84 Clothing 4,549 4.991 9,7
85 Shoes 109 132 21,1
26 Textile Fibres 370 308 -16,8
..2631 Cotton 217 181 -16,7
Import        
65 Textiles 1,245 1.545 24,2
84 Clothing 68 86 26,0
85 Shoes 67 84 25,2
26 Textile Fibres 1,369 1.287 -6,0

Source: UN Comtrade

Demand for textile machinery rises
Market observers anticipate increased investments in machinery. A particular dynamic effort is expected in the demand for textile printing machines, dyeing machines, tenter frames and other finishing techniques. Positive for the investment climate will be the effect of the expected increase in textile exports to the EU and the improvement of the security situation. In recent years power shortages and a precarious security situation have inhibited the production and investment activity.

The market for textile machinery (SITC 724) grew significantly since 2014. In the country itself only relatively simple machines are being manufactured. High-end equipment is mostly imported. The import of textile machinery rose to USD 585 million in 2014, an increase of 17% compared to 2013.

Import of Textilmaschinen*)
Year Value (in Mio. US$)
2014 585
2013 498
2012 439
2011 488
2010 455
2009 217
2008 385

*) SITC 724, including pieces
Source: UN Comtrade

German machinery manufacturers are losing market share
The PR China has superseded Japan as the major supplier of textile machinery in 2014. In fact Japan was able to increase its deliveries vigorously (+ 23%), but the Chinese succeeded to get even higher gains (+ 41%). The suppliers from Switzerland and India have also increased their exports to Pakistan significantly. German machinery manufacturers however were not able to benefit from the increasing demand.
Import of textile machinery by main supplier countries (in USD million, change over previous year and supply share in %) *)
Land   2014 Veränderung 2014/2013 Anteil
VR China 145 40.7 24.8
Japan 139 22.6 23.7
Schweiz 75 55.2 12.8
Deutschland 71 -24.9 12.1
Italien 50 9.3 8.6
Indien 15 28.0 2.6
Gesamt 585 17.5 100

*) SITC 724, including pieces

Investments urgently needed
Competition from PR China, Bangladesh, India and Sri Lanka has intensified. Pakistan's textile industry needs to modernize and upgrade, to increase its productivity and the added value. Pakistan covers the entire value chain from fiber preparation from to the end product. Despite this well-position predominantly simple products are being produced. Only an estimated 40 companies are vertically integrated and cover the entire textile processing.
With an annual harvest of about 13 million bales Pakistan is the world's fourth largest cotton producer. In addition about 600.000 tons of synthetic fibers are being manufactured in the country. According to reports there are 21 manufacturers of filament yarn with a capacity of 100.000 t; the production is supported by a PTA plant with a capacity of 500.000 t.

Export of the textile industry by product group 07-01-2014 – 31-03-2015 (Changes compared to the same period of last year and in %)
Product Value (in Mio. US$) Change Share
Knitwear 1,792 7.5 18
Readymade Garment 1,548 8.5 15
Bed Wear 1,570 -2.4 15
Towels 580 1.8 6
Tent, Canvas, Tarpaulin 105 82.0 1
Made-ups (Other Textiles) 486 -0.5 5
Cotton Cloth 1,860 -26.5 18
Cotton Yarn 1,461 2.0 14
Raw Cotton 142 -9.4 1
Art-Silk& Synthetic Textile 274 -17.0 3
Other Textile Products 350 0.0 4
Summe 10,168 -1.6 100

Sources: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics; TMA - Towel Manufacturers Association

Yarn production has lost competitiveness
According to sector experts In the past decade yarn manufacturers made no larger investments to upgrade their production, although money would have been available for such investments.  The reason for that should have been the heavy competition from China, India and Bangladesch.  Ten years ago Pakistan used to be one of the most efficient yarn manufacturers worldwide. Because modernization investments failed to materialize, this technique applies as outdated in Pakistan today.

The companies complain about high production costs and are demanding more favorable electricity tariffs and protectionist measures against import competition. A negative effect on the production and the investment climate in the country also have the electricity shortages and the tense security Situation.

The textile sector in Pakistan is characterized by numerous large textile companies with quite a large number of small businesses opposite which mostly belong to the so-called informal sector. The informal sector, for example, includes small family companies or small productions, which are not taxable. The informal sector produces mainly simple products for the domestic market. It works with discarded equipment of the larger companies, imported used machinery or cheap equipment from China. The official statistics do not take the informal sector into account.

Import of textile machinery by product and top supplier countries (in USD thousands, change compared to the previous year in%)
SITC Productgroup 2013 2014 Veränd.
724.3 Sewing machines, from 18.508 31.034 67,7
  PR China 9.795 19.925 103,4
  Japan 2.596 3.694 42,3
  Vietnam 479 911 90,3
  Germany (Rank 5) 856 750 -12,4
724.4 Spinning and other machines for textile processing, from 255.311 258.348 1,2
  Japan 74.961 61.771 -17,6
  Switzerland 36.203 57.814 59,7
  Germany (Rank 3) 64.086 46.545 -27,4
724.5 Weaving machines, from 121.860 179.424 47,2
  Japan 29.997 68.090 127,0
  PR China 31.305 53.706 71,6
  Italy 6.666 11.275 69,1
  Germany (Rank 6) 5.290 6.097 15,2
724.6 Auxiliary machines, from 30.953 36.801 18,9
  PR China 8.797 11.935 35,7
  Germany (Rank 2) 6.429 4.880 -24,1
  Japan 2.055 3.614 75,9
724.7 Machines for dying, washing, drying, from 61.620 64.825 5,2
  PR China 9.855 12.455 26,4
  Italy 14.867 11.527 -22,5
   Germany (Rank 3) 16.652 11.494 -31,0
724.8 Machines for leather processing and footwear manufacturing, incl. parts, from 5.854 8.722 49,0
  Italy 3.674 4.985 35,7
  PR China 1.542 2.338 51,6
  Finland k.A 192 k.A.
  Germany (Rank 5) 29 140 381,6
724.9 Parts for textile machines, from 3.996 5.760 44,2
  PR China 2.107 2.854 35,5
  Germany (Rank 2) 617 669 8,4
  Italy 528 661 25,3
CRISIS HITS RUSSIAN FASHION MARKET HARD © derProjektor / pixelio.de
24.05.2016

CRISIS HITS RUSSIAN FASHION MARKET HARD

  • Sales decreases
  • Middle Price Segments affected most
  • Online Sale of Clothing growing

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of apparel and home furnishings will continue to decline in 2016. Lower real income leads to falling demand. Russian customers buy fewer clothes and are increasingly watching the price. Most sales shrink in the medium price segment. Fashion chains react on the declining market volume by closing stores and focus on profitable locations. In contrast, the online trade is growing. In comparison to the year before Russia's clothing market shrank in 2015 year by 9% to a volume of Rubles 1.4 billion. Converted into USD the decline was even 43%. The discrepancy between the value in Rubles and in USD is due to the drastically fallen value of the Russian currency.

  • Sales decreases
  • Middle Price Segments affected most
  • Online Sale of Clothing growing

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of apparel and home furnishings will continue to decline in 2016. Lower real income leads to falling demand. Russian customers buy fewer clothes and are increasingly watching the price. Most sales shrink in the medium price segment. Fashion chains react on the declining market volume by closing stores and focus on profitable locations. In contrast, the online trade is growing. In comparison to the year before Russia's clothing market shrank in 2015 year by 9% to a volume of Rubles 1.4 billion. Converted into USD the decline was even 43%. The discrepancy between the value in Rubles and in USD is due to the drastically fallen value of the Russian currency. For the textile and clothing industry, the Ruble devaluation means a fundamental change in the general framework: more expensive imports, lower personnel costs in Russia and rising export opportunities.
 
Customers change from the middle to the lower price segment
In addition, the real income of the Russian population declines and thus the purchasing power. Russian customers buy less clothing and watch more and more the price. Sales shrink at the most in the medium price segment. Many customers orientate themselves on low-price segments (mass market), which will increase in 2016 by 5 to10% to a share of 65 to 70%, the Fashion Consulting Group predicts. The proportion of the premium and luxury segment remains unchanged.
An average Russian household has cut its spending on clothing and home textiles by 30 to 50%, experts estimate. Especially the suppliers of imported textiles and clothing got to feel this, their prices had to be increased most, what damaged the business of foreign brand suppliers. In 2015 the Russian imports of textiles and clothing fell by 25%. This tendency continues in 2016.
    
Distribution networks in the stationary trade become thinned 
Because of the price pressure manufacturers and retailers in the fashion market shorten their staff, negotiate discounts for the shop rental, reduce the collections, simplify cuts and save on quality. While many Russian brands used to buy their materials in the EU and in Turkey, designers and producers now can only afford cheap synthetic fabrics from China. The advertising budgets were slashed in 2015 by 40 to 45%. Moreover clothing suppliers react by closing stores and concentrate on most profitable locations. Since 2014 more than eleven international brands have left the Russian market. These include Gerry Weber from the middle price segment, Laura Ashley, Chevignon and Seppälä; from the mass market segment Esprit, New Look, OVS, River Iceland and Wendys.  
 
Marks & Spencer closed 3% of its stores, Mango 7%, Gloria Jeans 12%. The largest drop in the number of stores are reported from the brands Vis-a-Vis (-65%), Motivi (-40%), Savage (-29%) and Incity (-17%). Maratex closed its franchise stores for clothing brands like Esprit, New Look, OVS and River Iceland 2015 in Russia. The Finnish Stockmann sold its seven department stores in Russia for EUR 5 million to Reviva Holdings Ltd. (owner of the franchise store chain Debenhams) and gave up the business of its brands Lindex and Seppälä.
 
Adidas has closed 2015 167 of its 1,100 shops in Russia, planned are 200. The German sportswear manufacturer acquired 2015 the central warehouse Chekhov-2 with an area of 120,000 square meters in the Moscow region. The purchase price is supposed at a total between USD 70 and 100 million. The Finnish Kesko informed in February 2016 that it wants to sell the Russian Intersport chain because of poor financial results.

The retail chain Modny continent (brands: Incity, Deseo) reduced the number of its stores by 35. At the end of the first quarter of 2016 they still owned 301 stores. The Melon Fashion Group disposed in 2015 27 unprofitable stores, for this they opened 37 new ones. Melon owned December 31st 604 stores throughout Russia (befree 234, Zarina 203, Love Republic 167), of which 134 are franchise stores (befree 56, Zarina 44, Love Republic 34). A new concept of the stores - larger retail space and more modern design – should help against the crisis.
The Spanish designer brand Desigual closed its Russian stores end of September 2015, but they remain on the market in multibrand stores. A similar course is followed by other brands. 

Eleven fashion brands enter the Russian market in the first half year of  2016
A small gleam of hope: Eleven fashion brands announced to enter the Russian market in the first half year of 2016. This happened already at the end of 2015 with budget brands like Cortefiel, Superdry and Violetta by Mango. H & M, Monki, Uniqlo and Forever 21 want to continue to expand in Russia.
Already in 2015 the number of H & M stores grew in Russia by 35% to 96 stores. On April 28th 2016 the menswear house Henderson opened a new salon in the shopping center "Zelenopark" in Zelenograd near Moscow. With this Henderson (brands: Henderson, Hayas) is now represented in 164 major shopping centers in 56 Russian cities. Hugo Boss inaugurated on April 8th 2016 a new shop in the Outlet Village Pulkovo.

The vertically integrated chain Gloria Jeans has changed it’s headquarter at the beginning of 2016 from Rostov-on-Don to Moscow and rented there 3,500 square meters in the Arma plant. Until the end of 2016 Gloria Jeans plans to extend on 5,000 square meters and further to 10,000 square meters until 2017. The capital should serve as a gateway to the world market: Gloria Jeans plans to open an office in Hong Kong. The company has eight regional offices and two large logistics complexes in Novosibirsk and Novoshakhtinsk.

International brands, planning to enter the Russian market in first half of 2016
Nr. Brand Country Profile Shopping mall Price segment
1 Demurya     France/Russia Clothing Smolenskij Passash Premium
2 John Varvatos USA Clothing Crocus City Mall Premium
3 Il Gufo Italy Clothing for children ZUM Premium
4 Barbour United Kingdom Clothing GUM upper middle
5 Armani Exchange Italy Clothing Mega, Aviapark middle
6 Veta Estland Clothing Streetretail, Kamenoostrowskij middle
7 Love Stories Netherlands Underwear Einkaufszentrum "Modny Seson" middle
8 Victorias Secret Pink USA Underwear, clothing Evropejskij middle
9 Hunkemöller Germany Underwear Mega middle
10 Undiz France Underwear Mega lower
11 Aigle France Clothing, shoes Street retail, Olimpijskij pr-t middle

Source: Retail.ru

Online sale with clothing is growing – Chinese suppliers are expanding
In contrast to the declining sales in the stationary apparel trade, the demand in outlets and on the Internet is rising. The number of visits and the average amount of receipts at the Fashion House Outlet Centre Moscow has risen by two times since July 2013, director Brendon O'Reily reports. The Fashion House Group offers online shopping since 2016.

The association of Internet trading companies (http://www.akit.ru) estimates that sales on the Internet in 2015 were Rubles 760 billion (+ 7%). The share of clothing and footwear was 35 %. Already in 2014 the online trade had grown by a third. Online stores are operated by KupiVIP, Lamoda and Finn Flare. Alone at KupiVIP the number of orders increased by 45% to a volume of Rubles 16.5 billion in 2015.

Manufacturers and distributors therefor boost the online trade. The government wants to promote the export of Russian goods and is planning a large Internet trading platform. Models are Alibaba (China) and JD.com. However Russian customers are buying increasingly from Asian webshops. Only in 2014 the popularity of online orders in China increased threefold.

Contac addresses
Fashion Consulting Group
(Consulting, Marketing, PR)
125009 Moskau, Maly Gnezdnikowskij pereulok 4
Tel.: 007 495/629 74 25, -629 76 23
E-Mail: info@fashionconsulting.ru, Internet: http://www.fashionconsulting.ru

Russian Buyers Union
119034 Moskau, ul. Prechistenka 40/2, Gebäude 3, Büro 110
Tel.: 007 499/350 51 40
E-Mail: info@buyersunion.ru, relations@buyersunion.ru
Internet: http://www.buyersunion.ru

 

Sales of Apparel are rising in Poland - despite Price Pressure © Hardy5 / pixelio.de
03.05.2016

SALES OF APPAREL ARE RISING IN POLAND - DESPITE PRICE PRESSURE

  • Import from Germany growing / Domestic Chains expanding

Warsaw (GTAI) - The outlook for sales of clothing and footwear in Poland is favorable. Domestic chains such as LPP, Bytom, Vistula and Monnari are opening additional stores. In 2016 the shoe chain CCC is investing around EUR 33 mio in new sales areas, including in Germany. The western neighboring country is by far the biggest buyer of clothing from Poland. Increasingly popular too is fashion from Germany, which occupies the third place among supplying countries.

  • Import from Germany growing / Domestic Chains expanding

Warsaw (GTAI) - The outlook for sales of clothing and footwear in Poland is favorable. Domestic chains such as LPP, Bytom, Vistula and Monnari are opening additional stores. In 2016 the shoe chain CCC is investing around EUR 33 mio in new sales areas, including in Germany. The western neighboring country is by far the biggest buyer of clothing from Poland. Increasingly popular too is fashion from Germany, which occupies the third place among supplying countries.

In Poland the demand for clothing and footwear is steadily growing. The market research firm PMR (http://www.pmrpublications.com) expects in 2016 sales worth of Zloty 35.3 billion (approximately EUR 8.2 billion, 1 Euro = 4.3283 Zl, as of April 22nd  2016). The price war however is very tough due to the higher US dollar exchange rate, the dealers can hardly pass their higher costs on to the customers. This concerns mainly imported commodity goods from the Far East, while the outlook for the upscale segment outfitters is better.

Value of sales of clothing and footwear (in PLN billion)
2012 2013 2014 20151) 20162) 20172)
28.7 28.9 31.8 33.4 35.3 37.1

1) Estimation, 2) Forecast
Source: market research company PMR

The company for classic clothing Bytom (http://www.bytom.com.pl, from the same city (Bytom – Beuthen)) that serves the upper segment, wants to create an offer for the masses. It lowered its prices in March 2016. In order to reach more customers, it plans to increase its sales area of from 10,300 square meters in spring 2016 to 15,000 square meters by the end of 2018. The number of its stores should simultaneously rise from 97 to 120.

Bythom will avoid quality losses through savings in the purchasing of clothing. According to Michal Wojcik, chairman of the company, negotiations with representatives of procurement markets are on the way. In 2019 the retail sales of Bytom should reach around 250 million PLN, double as much as in 2015 (123 million PLN). The company will serve the middle segment between large markets with  
mass-production goods and expensive boutiques with domestic and foreign luxury brands.

The two great rivals Bytom and Vistula (http://vistula.pl) from Krakow (Krakau) are receiving increasing competition by smaller companies. Vistula was able to win in 2016 the soccer star Robert Lewandowski for promotional activities, he will appear in suits of the company.

The stockbroker office of the Bank BZ WBK believes in good opportunities of the smaller chain Monnari  (http://www.emonnari.pl), which could double its sales area until 2019. With the proliferation of the growing clothing and footwear chains a consolidation of the retail structure goes along, and the total numbers of stores will overall decrease.

The chains Vistula, Bytom and Monnari are expanding domestically only, where they expand their retail spaces annually by 10 to 25%. Since only one third of the by Vistula and Bytom sold collections are being settled on a USD basis, they are not hurt as much by the strong upvaluation of the US currency as LPP, the manufacturer of mass-products. This company buys almost its entire collection in the  
Far East in US currency. In the case of the footwear chain CCC, the proportion is 40 to 50%.

Number of shops for clothing and footwear
  2010 2011 2012 2013 2014
Clothing 32,100 30,700 29,400 28,700 28,400
Shoes  

7,610

7,464 7,215 7,029 6,86

Source: Bisnode

CCC strives towards west

The retail chain CCC (http://ccc.eu), which is also represented abroad including in Germany and Austria, has acquired for more than ZL 200 million the online shop for shoes eobuwie.pl (http://www.eobuwie.pl). By 2016 a further strong expansion is planned, for which it wants to raise about PLN 140 million. The sales area should become 27% net bigger with at least 100,000 square meters. This was announced by the deputy chairman of CCC, Mr. Piotr Nowjalis.

The majority of the new area (77,000 square meters) is planned abroad, where 110 stores should be opened. In the focus here are Germany, Austria and Romania. Domestically CCC is planning a new sales area of 23000 square meters for 40 stores. These plans represent an acceleration compared to 2015, when the total sales area had increased by 66,000 square meters net (+ 22%). At the end of 2015 there were at home and abroad 773 CCC stores with a total of 372,000 square meters. 

Forecasts for and results of apparel and footwear chains (in PLN million)
Company Revenues 2015 Revenues 2016 *)   Net income 2015   Net income 2016 *)
LPP 5,130 6,062 352 510
CCC 2,407 3,043 237 271
Vistula 517 565 31.5 38.5
Monnari 214 258 35.5 34.5
Bytom 131 160 13.3 16.1
CDRL 183 201 14.2 14.9
Gino Rossi 278 301 6.7 10.0
Wojas 220 240 6.3 8.4

*) Forecast of the press agency Bloomberg, February 2016
Source: Newspaper Rzeczpospolita

According to a forecast of Bloomberg, the most important apparel and footwear companies will improve their results in 2016. Leader LPP supplies with its brands Reserved, Mohito, Cropp, House and Sinsay a wide audience. To the upscale segment belongs the new brand Tallinder, which is being offered since February 2016 in a first store in Gdansk (Danzig). Beginning in 2019 there should be 30 sales stores for the brand Tallinder, which then will compete with Vistula, Bytom and Prochnik.   

Market shares of classic man’s wear 2014 (in %)
Vistula und Wolczanka Bytom  Prochnik  Übrige
30 14 6 50

Source: Newspaper Rzeczpospolita

In 2016 LPP wants to increase its retail space at home and abroad by 11 to 13%, that is about 90,000 square meters. End of the year thus 1,716 shops could belong to the company. To date, 23% of the sales area of LPP is in the Russian Federation and Ukraine. The profits there were again impacted by the devaluation of the local currencies against the Zloty.

Foreign trade increases

The Polish imports of clothing exceed the exports. Especially Asian countries could increase their deliveries in 2014, but also Germany belongs to the leading suppliers and attained growth. Among the importing countries Germany plays by far the most important role. The followers are the Netherlands, Czech Republic, Austria, Sweden and other, mostly European countries.

Foreign trade with clothing from woven fabrics (in PLN mio)
Custom tariff 6201 bis 6209 2012 2013 2014
Import, including 5,251.0 5,392.4 6,910.0
PR China 2,319.4 2,115.3 2,532.3
Bangladesch   666.6 758.4 1,019.2
Germany 278.8 522.1 607.7
Turkey  333.0 290.6 404.3
India 264.5 258.8 329.9
Export, including   5,416.9 5,895.4 6,830.1
Germany 2,628.9 2,997.3 3,677.7

Source: Central Statistical Office GUS

Although Poland supplies clothing to Germany at a large extent, it is not easy for the companies to settle in the western neighboring country with own shops and their own brands. LPP opened its first store in Germany in September 2014, in spring of 2016 there were already twelve. In three years there should be 30 stores. In 2015 the German LPP stores generated approximately 94 million PLN, but probably without profit because of investment costs and advertising.

Foreign trade of knitted and crocheted clothing (in PLN mio)
Zolltarifposition 6101 bis 6114 2012 2013 2014
Import, including 4,990.3 5,191.6 6,748.2
PR China   1,575.2 1,574.1 1,970.7
Bangladesch   963.9 903.2 1,258.8
Germany 349.2 538.1 723.8
Turkey 479.3 512.9 628.7
Cambodia 278.4 235.4 464.3
Export, thereof 4,150.1 4,521.4 5,108.9
Germany 1,794.8 1,888.0 2,343.8

Source: Central Statistical Office GUS

In 2015 Polish exports of apparel, accessories and other textile products and footwear continued to rise.

Export of garments, accessories, textiles and footwear (in PLN billion)
  2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Apparel, Accessoires, Textiles 12.0 13.5 13.9 15.1 17.3 21.4
Shoes 1.6 1.9 2.4 3.0 3.3 4.0

Source: Central Statistical Office GUS

Village www.kappisdesign.de
22.03.2016

IMPORT BAN OF USED CLOTHING TO PROMOTE EAST AFRICAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Observers doubt the Success of the planned Measures / Ambitions in the Automotive Industry

Nairobi (gtai) - The countries of the East African Community will prohibit the import of used clothing and used shoes in three years. Long since defunct textile and clothing industries so revived. It is also planned to impede the import of used cars, in order to promote a local car assemblers. In particular, the Ugandan President Yoweri Museveni dreams of building its own car industry.

The East African Community (EAC), who is also Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda and Burundi belong alongside Uganda, other countries serve as role models. So to have led to building lively textile industries in Ghana, Egypt, Ethiopia, India and Vietnam, such a ban.

Observers doubt the Success of the planned Measures / Ambitions in the Automotive Industry

Nairobi (gtai) - The countries of the East African Community will prohibit the import of used clothing and used shoes in three years. Long since defunct textile and clothing industries so revived. It is also planned to impede the import of used cars, in order to promote a local car assemblers. In particular, the Ugandan President Yoweri Museveni dreams of building its own car industry.

The East African Community (EAC), who is also Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda and Burundi belong alongside Uganda, other countries serve as role models. So to have led to building lively textile industries in Ghana, Egypt, Ethiopia, India and Vietnam, such a ban.

Used clothing is very popular East Africa. With luck, you can get hold of well-preserved Western European branded goods or shoe sizes, as they are locally not available for little money. Many teenagers from expensive villas suburbs of capitals makes a kick out, used T-shirts to buy exotic printing at prices equivalent to 0.45 euros. Thanks to the second-hand imports contribute even male slum dwellers naturally a western suit and girls or young women from a wide array chic western clothes.

German exports of rags of SITC 269 in countries of the East African Community
(in million euros)

Customer Country 2014 2015 *)
Kenya 8.61 7.74
Uganda 4.92 4.48
Tanzania 1.87 4.81
Rwanda 0.12 0.14
Burundi 0.31 0.02
Total 15.83 17.19
German Exports worldwide 390.64 388.55

1) Primarily apparently used clothing, blankets and kitchen linen of textile materials and shoes that are loose presented in bulk or bales. 2) provisionally
Source: Destatis

Politicians promise hundreds of thousands of new jobs
While East African politicians boast of being able to create in this way hundreds of thousands of jobs, incite economists from: "The reasons why people in East Africa are happy to buy used clothes easily enumerated," said Scolastica Odhiambo, an economics professor at the Kenyan Maseno University: "It is less expensive, of good quality and provides diversity." The regional textile industry have meanwhile not have the capacity to meet the demand. In addition, they do not produce quality  in the eyes of the local population. The only local manufacturer of shoes, meanwhile, the company Bata that however mainly produces shoes for students and a local SME. In the upper price segment Bata, however, is dependent on imports.

In a period of three years, it is the opinion of observers simply impossible to expand the local textile industry so that it can meet the demand both quantitatively and qualitatively. This time is also too short to find alternative employment for hundreds of thousands of second-hand clothes dealer who live with their families from the Mitumba business (Mitumba = bales).

Industrial decline since the 1980s
If the East African states really want to try willing to build a powerful textile industry, they would almost from scratch start. The East African cotton production was mid- 1980 even at the height. Tanzania had  then 700,000 bales (à 185 kg) produces cotton, reports the weekly "The East African", Uganda and Kenya 400,000 100,000. Then it was just gone downhill. Kenya had last only 25,000 bales (2014), Uganda 150,000 bales (2015) and Tanzania produced 30,000 bales (2014).

East African textile factories and Entkörnungswerke for cotton (ginneries) have shut down or run down for the most part. The main reasons included industry experts, a lack of organization of the agricultural sector, high production costs, the inadequate use of quality inputs and over-reliance on a rain irrigation. Then in 1991 came yet added the liberalization of the sector: Cheap Used clothes conquered henceforth
the market.

Uniforms instead of fashion chic?
How difficult is the situation, be seen using the example of single Rwandan textile factory L'Usine Textile du Rwanda (UTEXRWA). 1984 began its operation,the 75-million-US $ - Investment. But for an average Rwandans were and are the products simply too expensive. Finally, the utilization was only at 20%, sales fell to an estimated $ 2 million to 3 million US. Almost all substances are already imported: cotton
fabrics from the East African neighbors, polyester materials from South Africa, Taiwan, Korea and Indonesia (Rep.).

To prevent the utter collapse of the company, the Rwandan government will soon raise the import tariffs on clothing gradually from 35% to 100%. Rwandan clothing retailers see the highly critical: UTEXRWA could neither quantity nor quality and certainly not fashionable Chic deliver, not now and not in ten years. Over military and school uniforms are not there, they say.

Prohibitions instead of better frame conditions
Foreign observers speak of a typical East African policy Quick shot: Because the governments want to defuse the ticking time bomb of rapidly rising unemployment, they sat on activism without the  consequences to sufficiently discuss. If East Africa wants to strengthen its industry, it must improve the framework. Bureaucracy, corruption, nepotism and monopolies are the ones that prevent the development of competitive industries for decades.

The winner of the new policy is expected to - be the PRC, which is expected to fill along with other low-cost producers, the expected supply vacuum - again. Clothing stores in the Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa to show where we are headed: The cheapest Chinese commodity, wherever you look. The new Ethiopian textile and footwear industry is meanwhile mainly from Chinese companies which produce exclusively for export. to copy this model to other East African countries, however, is likely to fail, say industry insiders. Kenya and Tanzania are far too expensive, not to mention the landlocked countries of Uganda, Burundi and Rwanda throughout.

German exports of machinery for textile, apparel and leather production
in selected East African countries (EGW 847; EUR million).

Abnehmerland 2013 2014 2015 *)
Mauritius 5.44 3.39 4.17
Uganda 0.60 0.56 1.67
Ethiopia 0.48 6.68 1.14
Kenya 0.93 1.72 0.91
Tanzania 0.61 0.47 0.56
Madagascar 0.02 0.05 0.04
Total 8.08 12.87 8.49

*) provisional; Quelle: Destatis

Protectionism to promote motor vehicle industry
Even more questionable than the East African textile policy is rekindled desire to raise its own automotive industry launched. Hopefuls nationalist politicians in Kenya is the "Mobius", an all-terrain vehicle primitive, which is equipped with a small engine from the Nissan NP200 pick-up truck. Students of Uganda Makerere University have meanwhile introduced with the help of the US Massachusetts Institute of
Technology two concept studies, the "Kiira EV Smak Car" and "Kayoola Solar Bus". While the Kenyan "development" is reminiscent of the technical status of the 2nd World War, set the Ugandan vehicles
conscious on renewable energy.

Although these backyard experiments also not likely to have the lowest commercial opportunities, they nevertheless serve currently as an excuse for protectionist import barriers, which resulted in imports are likely to be more difficult in favor of a local assembly of CKD kits.

Supply chains in Asia are in motion © Tokamuwi/ pixelio.de
08.03.2016

SUPPLY CHAINS IN ASIA ARE IN MOTION

  • Vietnam is largest beneficiary
  • Relocation closer to sales markets

Hong Kong (gtai) - For global consumer product manufacturers, Asia has developed an important role as a procurement region. Large parts of production have been displaced in recent decades into the region and here traditionally mainly to China. The rising costs in China however lead to a strategy adjustment. Thus the production moved on to cheaper locations and a shift back closer to the end customer began. Free trade arrangements support this trend.

  • Vietnam is largest beneficiary
  • Relocation closer to sales markets

Hong Kong (gtai) - For global consumer product manufacturers, Asia has developed an important role as a procurement region. Large parts of production have been displaced in recent decades into the region and here traditionally mainly to China. The rising costs in China however lead to a strategy adjustment. Thus the production moved on to cheaper locations and a shift back closer to the end customer began. Free trade arrangements support this trend.

Labor costs in China will not move down again. Even when the economic growth increasingly weakens, China's coastal regions are already often too expensive for wage-intensive productions. The world's largest location of the manufacturing sector will anyway leave its dependence of exports and will generate more growth through domestic consumption. The remaining companies are therefore increasingly focused on Chinese customers. Has the textile industry heard the signals already several years ago and shifted away, now the electronics companies have started to search.

But – the relocation of production is not so easy, the experts agreed upon at the discussion panel Shifting Supply Chains in Asia on the Asian Financial Forum (AFF) in Hong Kong. Because no country, except India, offers such a workforce. But neither the infrastructure and the investment climate can match, nor the country has any interest in low-production stages. Furthermore China has set up a supply industry without any comparison.

Relocation trends slow down

Even Bangladesh, established for a long time as a cheap location for clothes, is losing its attractiveness - experts say. Besides fundamentally difficult production conditions especially scandals like collapsing factories are responsible. No western clothing manufacturer likes to be associated with that repute today. While Indonesia was generally judged for being rather little investment friendly, the Philippines would provide a better reputation than years ago. So in addition to numerous Japanese producers also German companies have moved from southern China to the special areas of the Philippines.

Due to wage cost increases by an average of 15% per year, China with it’s the low-wage area has catapulted itself in a large extent out of the market. In times of rising productivity this was compensated for a while but at last the model came to its limits. The empire of the middle will therefore make the leap to a consumptionbased growth based on production of high-tech and on the provision of services. It is still
unclear whether this leap across the "middleincome trap" will succeed. Many emerging countries are caught in this trap, and the growth is flagging.

German buyers order less in China

Accordingly German retailers are increasingly reducing their imports from China and buy more and more in other countries. This is the result of a member survey of the Foreign Trade Association of German Retailers (AVE), at which for the most part textile and shoe retailers participated. 80% of the respondents have already reduced their import volume from China in 2015, 90% of the companies said they are
planning to source from other supply regions. The merchants are seeing a shift to countries like Myanmar (78%), Bangladesh (67%) and Vietnam (56%).

Vietnam, which already benefited in recent years from the relocation, was still recommended on the AFF as a top location. The country with the highest economic growth in Southeast Asia in 2015 would have risen in the 1st half of 2015 to the fourth-largest exporter of textiles, the Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex) analyzed. For shoes it is already the third largest supplier worldwide. Based on mega investments from Samsung, now the electronics industry came out of the starting blocks and should attract more activities. Experts cite especially the mixture of young, growing populations with low labor costs as an important locational advantage.

Vietnam benefits from Free Trade Agreements (FTA)

A thrust Vietnam's attractiveness currently receives through free trade agreements which are in a final stage. So a free trade agreement with the European Union was signed in December 2015 which was followed early February 2016 by the Trans Pacific Partnership (TPP). The latter agreement, which includes next to ten other Pacific neighbors the United States, should bring a large benefit for Vietnam. For the Vietnamese consumer goods manufacturers the US is the most important market, the large retailers in the United States can move their procurements very fast.

As an underdeveloped member Vietnam is likely to get larger portions of the value chain in the textile and electronics area at the ratification (and even before). The country is still missing a developed supplier structure. This is just happening to be built in the textile sector, there are investments in capacity for yarns, fabrics and dyeing going on. For Samsung, the largest foreign investor, all components are still coming
from China. And only when a large proportion of the added value comes from TPP member states, the low duty will become applicable.

While the purchasing power is not quite so big in Europe, costs play an important role also there. But next to it the control of the supply chain and the flexibility has developed a greater role, rapid changes of trends and collections are determined by customers and the Internet. Therefore also here a shift back, closer to the markets, has begun. Romania and Bulgaria have established themselves in the middle of
Europe as a "low-wage locations". But even there the population is characterized by aging. Accordingly labor forces will become scare and wages will rise. Ukraine is traded as a new location.

Africa still with small potential

Little potential the experts from the Supply Chain Panels evidence the location of sub-Saharan Africa. This was tested by some buyers or producers, but the results would not be convincing. The views however diverge. Some Chinese companies are already partly on site and American manufacturers are monitoring the further development. So, for example, the VF Corporation, the largest denim retailer in the world, is buying in Africa. Only Ethiopia would have potential - according to a representative. But the infrastructure, investment climate and working morale could not be comparable.

So - basically serious alternatives to the established locations are lacking. Therefore, due to the scarcity of labor, costs and thus the final prices will rise. Even in Vietnam the minimum wage increased by 15% in 2015. But when it will be hardly possible to turn at the purchase screw, the companies need to position themselves better in marketing and sales, so a large clothing buyer. Therefore social media must be used in order to come closer to the customer and, for example, to develop individualization as a selling point.

The buying hotspots for clothes for the upcoming years (survey early 2015)
Country Named among the Top-3
Bangladesh 48%
Vietnam 33%
India 30%
Myanmar 30%
Turkey 30%
PR China 23%
Ethiopia 13%
Indonesia 10%
Egypt 5%
Sri Lanka 5%
Tunesia 5%

Source: McKinsey survey of chief purchasing managers

Shoes must glitter in winter 2016/17 © Messe Düsseldorf GmbH / ctillmann
16.02.2016

SHOES MUST GLITTER IN WINTER 2016/17

Paint, glitter and metallic effects should provide the highlights at the foot in the coming autumn / winter 2016/2017. In addition, deep shades of red and the trend color cognac and camel. Otherwise it is said: more volume, more profile. Androgenic shoe types conquer the shoe racks.

Paint, glitter and metallic effects should provide the highlights at the foot in the coming autumn / winter 2016/2017. In addition, deep shades of red and the trend color cognac and camel. Otherwise it is said: more volume, more profile. Androgenic shoe types conquer the shoe racks.

While the chilly autumn weather in September and in the first half of October still brought good sales for winter shoes and boots, the mild November and December thwart the retailers bill. Especially snow shoes and boots became shop keepers at many places, especially small and medium size enterprises had to record a decline in sales. Although the online trade had to fight with the same weather conditions, initial figures however indicate, that the online shoe trade was able to register last year a sales growth of around seven percent. The stationary trade is looking for new concepts, is even more intensely dealing with its assortments and suppliers and aims to react therefore with a proper weighting of new footwear trends. Many traders took advantage of the just ended GDS shoe fair in Dusseldorf in order to learn about the new trends for autumn / winter 2016/17: The hippie look with its inspirations from the 1970s finds its continuation. Folkloric elements are implemented with much attention to details: fringe, fur, embroidery and patchwork will be found not only on shoes but on boots as well. Velvets, animal prints, tapestry, floral or abstract patterns enhance the detail-note of the theme. Snake prints are found not only subtly used as an ornament, but all over the entire shoe. Pumps and ballerinas are interpreted feminine with curved heels. Hip, although probably not a bringer of numbers, the overknee, to be carried with the tunic dress.

Trendy remain androgynous types of footwear such as Budapest, Broques, Monks and Loafer, that are perfectly suited to types of trousers as the culotte and the new over long pants. Their soles are partly very distinctive but extremely light. Loving details such as perforations, tassels, straps ensure modernity. The new bootees convince thru reduced optics and different shaft heights: They range from almost ankledeep over classic variants to medium-high boots which are worn narrow to the leg. Copped and round boot strips stay, new are square forms. At heels block-heels and slightly tapered shapes are in vogue, the soles are ultra-light and come in their fashionable variants as plateau or wedge soles.

The sneaker is an indispensable part of the shoe closets and remains unbeatable in the coming autumn / winter. In the new season it will appear cleaner and with fewer details. Tone in tone leo, metallics and suede will be mixed with a little paint, which gives the new sneakers an extravagant touch. Matt-gloss and 3D effects give the sneakers a high fashion look. For the colder months the sneaker comes in a material mix with fur and a warm interior design. Neoprene, mesh and leather produce in combination with 3D printing a new trendy image. Side zipper, damping and padding ensure greater comfort. For the soles lightweight, flexible PU or mix variants remain important. Fashionably are darker soles or soles in a dirty look in addition to the white and light soils.

In the new season the classic black and will not disappear from the shoe cabinets, even though black will not be traded as the ultimate trend color in the new season. Buying impulses should be given by stone, timber and mineral tones as well as cognac and camel, rust and deep shades of red and khaki, olive and denim tones. Color gradients and strong contrasts create a new appearance. Gloss and glitter are back in the trend, through glittering colors as well as through pearls and strass.

The choice of materials by the designers for the new shoe fashion is versatile as seldom before, they like to mix in the new season: animated, soft qualities with haptic and structure, next to very clean, smooth qualities. It will be patched, stitched, printed, embossed, patterned and flocked. The trendy shoe materials include leather qualities in natural optics, often with noticeable grain pattern. Lizard embossments are back in vogue, especially crocodile and python. Soft suede and nubuck qualities are a must. Exceptional finish effects and fantasy embossments are very trendy. 3D is not just an issue for new high-tech qualities,
but can also be seen as brocade, bouclé, lace or jacquard pattern.

Rapidly growing German Fashion Export to China © Maclatz/ pixelio.de
09.02.2016

RAPIDLY GROWING GERMAN FASHION EXPORT TO CHINA

  • Volumes considerably upgradeable
  • Italy loses Top Position to North Korea

Beijing (gtai) - Chinese consumers appreciate German goods from cars to saucepan. Fashion "Made in Germany" is only now discovered. German providers benefit from the good image of their country of origin - and from the desire of the growing middle class to afford something "good". Local production usually has a rather bad reputation. However there is a lack of presence, German brand names are hardly known. Despite the high growth rates the sales potential is by far not yet exhausted.

  • Volumes considerably upgradeable
  • Italy loses Top Position to North Korea

Beijing (gtai) - Chinese consumers appreciate German goods from cars to saucepan. Fashion "Made in Germany" is only now discovered. German providers benefit from the good image of their country of origin - and from the desire of the growing middle class to afford something "good". Local production usually has a rather bad reputation. However there is a lack of presence, German brand names are hardly known. Despite the high growth rates the sales potential is by far not yet exhausted.

German Fashion in the PRC is coming: according to Chinese custom statistics in the first ten months of 2015  Chinese purchases from Germany of knitted and crocheted clothing and garments (HS-Pos. 61) rose by a whopping 31.8% and by 5.1 % in other apparel and clothing accessories (HS-Pos. 62). This is all the more remarkable because the total imports for clothes grew in the same period by 3.6% only, - and China across all sectors even recorded a stately import reduction by 15.7%.

But a sales volume of USD 5.6 million USD of a total import of products of these HS headings of USD 4.9 billion is rather negligible. In fact, German fashion brands, with a few exceptions such as Hugo Boss and Escada, are yet barely visible in the PRC. A really good positioning was reached by Adidas only.

Main delivering country for the PRC was Italy until September 2015, its highly quality textiles and clothing are greatly appreciated. It shipped in the first ten months of 2015 sector products worth USD 688.7 million. However, given the ongoing austerity and anti-corruption policy the Italian imports tend downwards significantly (-11.6% compared to the same period last year).

Luxury purchases are shifted abroad

The Shanghai Daily wrote in October 2015, Chinese luxury purchases have been shifted to abroad at two-thirds since 2012. In Paris, Milan, London, New York or Tokyo one can buy anonymously and also cheaper than on the mainland. In addition, there is a trend away from the "quasi everywhere" available "big names" to new, less known, more individual designers.

At least there seems to be a still unabated propensity abroad: For example, the Financial Services Global Blue reported an increase in tax refunds of Chinese tourists in August 2015 of 65.6% (July: + 73%) compared to the same month of the previous year.

Detached from the top position was Italy in October from Korea (Dem. P.R.) with USD 663.9 million. On the third and fourth place follow Vietnam (USD 587.5 million) and Bangladesh (USD 364.7 million). The success of these three countries is probably due to an already shifted production capacity of Chinese manufacturers, which bring their products back to China to sell them there.

Chinese imports of clothing
(in USD million, change in % compared to the previous year period)
HS-Pos. Designation 2012 2013 2014 January til
October 2015
Change
61 Apparel and clothing accessories, knitted or crocheted, coming from 1,344 1,666 2,067 1,894 9.9
  .Vietnam 87 169 242 280 39.9
  .Italy 231 267 296 226 -8.2
  .Bangladesch 63 89 144 146 20.2
  .Korea (Dem.) 67 88 119 139 34.3
  .Germany 5 2 2 2 31.8
62 Apparel and clothing accessories, not knitted or crocheted from 2,664 3,141 3,559 3,034 0.1
  .Korea (Dem.VR) 373 499 622 525 -4.8
  .Italy 514 577 631 463 -11.6
  .Vietnam 154 236 310 307 18.9
  .Bangladesch 90 142 191 219 30.7
  .Germany 5 4 4 3 5.1
  Total 4,009 4,807 5,626 4,927 3.6

Source: China Customs

As in many other areas of consumer goods in the “Dress-Question” Germany does not utilize its opportunities on the Chinese market. According to sector insiders “here could happen much more" - not least because of the excellent reputation that the label "Made in Germany" enjoys among Chinese consumers.

The recommendation is - and this was repeated on the last "Chic" once again -   to see China not only as a procurement market but increasingly as a sales market too. In the words of a German leather jacket provider: "Twenty  years ago we bought leather from China, now we sell leather to China."

"Light Luxury" demanded

The "big" Italian or French brands such as Gucci, Armani or Chanel remain inaccessible for the most. Fashion "Made in Germany" can cover a niche in the medium price range that is affordable for the growing urban middle class, that also would like to buy "something international" and has come to appreciate German products from automobiles to saucepan. For them German fashion is not for luxury, but for good execution respectively processing and good material. At the same time other competitors are active in this field. In a similar notch for example, the Dutch men’s wear supplier Suitsupply abuts, which opened in Shanghai in the summer. 

Fake products are not an alternative for this clientele. In fact, the Chinese consumer does not make its decision for a German product due to the low price, but rather by the desire to acquire a piece of excellent quality. This then may cost something and stands out from the mainstream, whether through innovative materials, unusual combinations of materials, individual or humorous cuts or by a special design. Increasingly demanded are accessories such as matching belts, bags or shoes. As a micro-trend in the younger generation applies also wearing hats - and who wants to leave is going to the popular Octoberfest in a real Dirndl.

Sales price at least three times the purchase price

German manufacturers take advantage from the "demographic factor": the Chinese society is aging rapidly. Accordingly the demand is shifting away from "more funky and young" goods towards timeless, trendy-fashionable, quality orientated clothing, which then may be slightly more expensive - and it de facto also is. Experiential German import goods become more expensive due to transportation, customs and usual trading margin up to at least three times the buying price.

However, as successful niche products yes, - for the masses German goods therefore are not suitable. This may apply to lovingly designed eco-slippers as well as for trendy hats or quality handbags in a "Light-luxury segment". Not seldom the one or the other gap in the market can only be detected by local presence - so for example - each country has its own "house shoe culture", with which one must learn to deal with as a provider.

According to the experience of many exhibitors, sometimes Chinese buyers like with high standards masterfully crafted products even more than the Germans themselves. Moreover it is advantageous, to be able to offer customers next to the actual product, "a story". So it absolutely impresses, when a company is family-run by the fourth generation - or high craftsmanship can be documented with a film.