From the Sector

Dow introduces DOWSIL™ IE-8749 Emulsion, a new generation of durable water repellent finishes for fabrics based on silicone chemistry.

Studies conducted on a variety of textiles substrates based on DOWSIL™ IE-8749 Emulsion treatment demonstrate improved fabric retention compared to standard silicone finishes – thereby providing continued water repellency after multiple washes. Unlike many conventional finishes, DOWSIL™ IE-8749 Emulsion finish does not need to be regularly heat treated to restore the water repellency performance, which is a key advantage for the durability of the final product.

By incorporating a DOWSIL™ IE-8749 Emulsion treatment into their finishing processes, textile finishers receive greater control over the hand feel of the fabric - an important parameter driving consumer choices today. Depending on specific need, this can range, from a very soft hand feel that is characteristic of silicone when used alone, to a firmer hand with the addition of cross linkers.

The technology powering DOWSIL™ IE-8749 Emulsion was developed through a collaboration between Dow and Nicca Chemical.

Swedish commission dyeing company 7H Färgeri is looking to propel itself to the forefront of sustainable fabric production with the installation of the first industrial scale imogo Dye-Max spray dyeing line.
Currently under construction, the line will be delivered in the first week of March to the 7H plant close to the Swedish city of Borås. It will have a full working width of 1.8 metres with an operating speed of up to 50 metres for the reactive dyeing of cellulosic fibre-based fabrics. In addition, it will be capable of carrying out the application of a wide range of fabric pre-treatments and finishing processes, providing the company with unbeatable flexibility in production.

A proven Mini-Max laboratory unit for pre-determining application volumes and colour matching will also be delivered as part of the contract.

With the potential to slash the use of fresh water, wastewater, energy and chemicals by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems, the DyeMax has gained considerable attention since the concept was outlined and a prototype machine constructed in 2019.

Pilot scale trials have subsequently been carried out with many well-known international textile companies and their brand partners.
The application unit of the Dye-Max consists of a closed chamber containing a series of spray cassettes with precision nozzles for accurate and consistent coverage, in combination with the patented imogo Pro Speed valve that controls the volume to be applied.

Control and precision
“We are achieving an extremely low liquor ratio of around 0.5-1 litres per kilo of fabric and we fully control the pickup, applying precisely what is required to the specific fabric,” says imogo founding partner Per Stenflo. “Compared to traditional padders there is no contamination of the dyebath or dilution of the dye liquor to worry about.
Fast changeovers with virtually no waste together with a high production speed enable a high productivity and unmatched production flexibility. The system is also equipped with an exhaust system and droplet separator to ensure that the environment around the unit is safe and free from particles.

The imogo Mini-Max meanwhile frees up valuable production time by avoiding wasteful pre-runs. The user simply sets the recipe with the Mini-Max and transfers the parameters to the Dye-Max recipe database for the system to be fully production ready.

7H Färgeri was founded in 1935 and has established itself as the Nordic region’s most complete dyeing and processing plant, specialising in technical and functional textiles for the automotive and soft furnishings sectors, as well as functional and protective clothing.

The family-owned business is now run by brothers Johan and Peter Engelmann.
“We are pleased to be pioneering a sustainable first for the dyeing industry,” said Johan Engelmann. “Our goal is to offer the market products and services with the highest quality in the most climate-smart and sustainable way, and imogo’s spray technology will give us the opportunity to offer innovative new services and products to both existing and new customers. It will be a very exciting journey.”

World Congress on Textile Coating
On February 12th Per Stenflo will make a presentation entitled ‘Transforming Textile Dyeing’ during the online World Congress on Textile Coating which is held over four days, between February 11th and 19th.

• As of 1st February, 2021, Benoit Moutault has resumed the position as Group Vice President Business Field Textile (Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs) from Ralf Kattanek.

He reports to the CEO of the CHT Group, Dr. Frank Naumann, Chairman of the Board. Benoit is a French citizen, 45 years old, and has been working at CHT since 2014. He is experienced in various leadership positions within the global market of textile chemicals.

Dr. Frank Naumann: "We are very happy to continue our successful cooperation with Benoit. He takes over a highly important and strategic role for the CHT Group."

• Inspiring Interiors

Textiles are an inseparable part of the interior as they give a room atmosphere and good acoustics. But which fabric is best suited for which purpose? This month's drapilux  recommendation is drapilux835 and is aimed at classic and modern hotels as well as offices, healthcare facilities and hospitals.

• Nature-inspired lightness: drapilux 835

The translucency of drapilux 835 conveys openness, lightness and a sense of character. This  was  how  Holger  Schön,  Commercial  Property  Manager  at drapilux, described the series. That is the reason why this fabric, with its versatile floral patterns, adorns the four walls of the commercial property manager’s own home: “We live in the suburbs in a rural setting. Consequently, we chose a design with poppies, as this pattern harmonises well in the natural surroundings in which we live.” The fabric also plays a part in the hygiene chain thanks to the intelligent added function of drapilux bioaktiv. Silver ions on the surface of the fibres kill over 99 percent of any bacteria located on textiles.

Lectra announces its plan to acquire the entire capital and voting rights of US-based Gerber Technology. A key Industry 4.0 player in the fashion, automotive and furniture industries, Lectra designs smart industrial solutions – software, equipment, data and services – that help brands, manufacturers and retailers develop, produce and market their products.

The acquisition, if and when consummated, would allow Lectra to complement its market position and continue to enhance its offerings based on Industry 4.0 technology that will enable its customers to boost the productivity and profitability of their operations. After the French work council of Lectra is consulted and the binding documentation is signed, completion of the acquisition shall remain subject to merger control clearance and other customary conditions and shall be submitted to Lectra shareholders for approval.

The proposed combination would occur at an opportune time for both companies and their customers. The current uncertain economic climate and unprecedented challenges that fashion, automotive and furniture companies are facing due to the COVID-19 pandemic make it more important than ever for them to transform, digitalize and optimize their operations.

For over 50 years, Gerber Technology has used its proprietary technologies and deep domain expertise to provide integrated software and automated hardware solutions to companies around the world, including over 100 Fortune 500 companies in 134 countries.

The strategic combination of Gerber Technology and Lectra will create a premier advanced technology partner, able to quickly meet changing customer needs and deliver even more value through seamlessly integrated solutions. Together, the two companies will have a large installed base of product development software and automated cutting solutions in operation, with a worldwide presence and a long list of prestigious customers.

Consolidating the two companies’ research and development capabilities will enable the combined company to accelerate development of Industry 4.0 technologies and help its expanded customer base seize the full potential of these innovations.
Integrating the technology of the two companies will endow them with the resources to anticipate and address rapidly changing market conditions.

Key transaction terms

Under the proposed acquisition, Lectra would acquire all outstanding shares of Gerber Technology on a cash-free debt-free basis for an upfront payment of 175 million euros – through a combination of cash and debt – plus 5 million newly issued Lectra shares to AIPCF VI LG Funding, LP (“AIPCF VI LG”), an affiliate of American Industrial Partners that is Gerber Technology’s sole shareholder. This would represent a total amount of about 300 million euros based on Lectra’s closing share price on February 5, 2021. No contingent consideration is contemplated.

Gerber Technology’s revenues was 165 million euros in 2020.

Thanks to the strong value creation deriving from significant synergies, Lectra expects the transaction to be accretive for shareholders from 2022.

Upon closing, Daniel Harari would own c. 14.6% of the Lectra shares and AIPCF VI LG would own c. 13.3%.

Lectra’s Board of Directors would welcome a director representing AIPCF VI LG.

Daniel Harari would continue to be the Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Lectra. Gerber Technology Chief Executive Officer, Mohit Uberoi, would assume special advisor to Daniel Harari role until end-2021.

Lectra’s shareholders would be invited to vote on the issuance of the 5 million new Lectra shares reserved to AIPCF VI LG at a dedicated Extraordinary Shareholders’ Meeting which is currently expected to be held on April 30, 2021. A report containing additional information will be made available to the shareholders prior to the Extraordinary Shareholders’ Meeting.

Lazard is acting as exclusive financial advisor to Lectra, and Latham & Watkins as legal counsel to Lectra.

Goldman Sachs is acting as exclusive financial advisor to AIPCF VI LG, and Ropes & Gray LLP, Baker Botts LLP and Gide Loyrette Nouel A.A.R.P.I. as legal counsel to AIPCF VI LG.

2020 results, update on the 2020-2022 strategic roadmap and guidance for the coming years will be disclosed on February 10, 2021.

Lectra management will discuss the transaction, provide forward-looking guidance for the combined company upon closing of the transaction and answer questions from the financial community during the February 11, 2021 webcast Analyst Conference meeting in French starting at 8:30 am (CET - Paris).

Royal DSM announces that its DSM Engineering Materials business will launch mass-balanced bio-based Arnitel®, a thermoplastic elastomer, together with Sympatex Technologies. In this way, DSM Engineering Materials is taking the next step on its sustainability journey and enabling its customers to transition to a more circular and bio-based economy.

To address growing consumer and legislative demand for lower carbon footprint and more sustainable feedstock, the sports and apparel value chain is increasingly integrating bio-based materials into its designs. By offering a new range of mass-balanced bio-based Arnitel®, DSM Engineering Materials is enabling membrane manufacturer, Sympatex Technologies to meet these demands and make more sustainable choices.

DSM’s bio-based Arnitel® is manufactured with bio-based feedstock using a mass-balance approach¹. The end product contains more than 25% bio-based content by weight.

Sympatex uses Arnitel® to manufacture its waterproof, windproof, and breathable membranes for sports applications. The transition to bio-based feedstock will maintain the unique functional properties of Arnitel® and will enable Sympatex to easily shift to a more sustainable solution with a lower carbon footprint without having to requalify materials.

¹ Mass balance accounting is a well-known approach that has been designed to trace the flow of materials through a complex value chain. The mass balance approach provides a set of rules for how to allocate the bio-based and/or recycled content to different products to be able to claim and market the content as ‘bio’-based or ‘recycled’-based. Source: Ellen MacArthur Foundation (Mass Balance White Paper).

Reinach, Switzerland, and Westlake, Ohio, 2 February 2021 - Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced a strategic partnership with technology innovator CleanKore, aiming to advance sustainable dyeing processes throughout the denim supply chain.

The agreement will allow Archroma and CleanKore to promote the benefits of each other’s technologies. This includes Archroma’s robust catalog of dyes and specialty chemicals along with CleanKore’s patented process of dyeing yarns at the denim mill that completely eliminates the need for potassium permanganate (PP) spray and laser booster to achieve the bright white abrasion effect in the garment finishing process. The result is a large and circular bright white core with a small ring of indigo dye. The technology does not just eliminate the chemicals associated in the PP spray and laser process, which is much safer for denim workers, it also allows to save significant amounts of water and energy throughout the manufacturing process from fabric to garmenting.

CleanKore initially looked at eliminating potassium permanganate due to its being classified as hazardous if inhaled or ingested, or in case of contact with the skin or the eye. It is also considered very toxic to aquatic life. No new equipment or capital expenses are needed to implement the CleanKore technology, which works on all denim fabric, including dark indigo, sulfur top/bottom and sulfur black.

This is where Archroma comes into the picture. Its global technical team of denim coloration specialists will provide support to denim mills seeking to implement the CleanKore technology and develop the desired looks and effects - with the right colors and chemical systems for their production set-up.

CleanKore estimates that the technology allows to save up to 15 liters of water per garment, or the equivalent to the drinking needs of 5 people per day, and up to 0.51 kWh of energy per garment, or the equivalent of five 100-watt light bulbs on for 1 hour. The CleanKore technology also leads to a 10% to 20% increase in production throughput, as a result of a faster garment wash-down and the elimination of PP spray.

For CleanKore CEO Darryl Costin Jr., the announcement comes at an ideal time for CleanKore: "We have successfully proven the technology with mill partners such as Arvind and other denim mills in Pakistan, Bangladesh, China, Vietnam, Thailand and the United States. The response from the industry has been overwhelmingly positive. Having a partner in Archroma, one that is highly respected for their innovation and emphasis on sustainability throughout the industry, will allow us to take CleanKore to the next level.”

Umberto Devita, Global Indigo Manager at the Archroma Global Competence Center for Denim & Casualwear, adds: "CleanKore is perfectly aligned with the 3 pillars of 'The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced'. 'Safe' through the elimination of a potentially harmful substance and the protection of the denim workers, 'Efficient' through the reduction of resource consumption, improved productivity and cost-effective profile. And 'Enhanced' through the gorgeous colors and effects allowed with Archroma's innovations and systems, in particular our aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo and Diresul® sulfur dyes. We look forward to help promoting an innovation that will help with many of the challenges facing our denim customers throughout the world. Because it’s our nature."

• ITM of TU Dresden – your research partner in the field of virtual product development at ISPO Munich
• ISPO Munich Online 2021 – the world´s leading sports business platform from February 1st to 5th 2021

The Chair of Assembly Technology for Textile Products of ITM presents itself for the first time at ISPO Munich Online 2021 – showcasing its expertise in the field of virtual product development. Its know-how in the determination of material parameters, digital data processing, and data transfer will be presented as well as its competencies in 3D/4D body shape recording via scanning, data animation for the 3D product development for functional clothing, and simulation for wear comfort/usage visualization. The Chair of Assembly Technology for Textile Products of ITM has manifested its leading global position in the virtual product development sector by successfully completing a variety of national and international interdisciplinary research projects.

Researchers of the Chair of Assembly Technology for Textile Products have been actively involved in the preparation and digital representation of material samples for the ISPO Textrends Forum. Thus, the material parameters of the ISPO Textrends Award textiles were determined for 3D fit simulations in Vidya (Assyst/Vizoo), automatically analyzed, and digitally processed by the specially developed "Material Analyzer" software. This software in addition to other state-of-the-art CAE infrastructure, such as the recently installed 4D Scanner Move4D, are essential for the further establishment and promotion of its leading position in the field of digitalization and virtual product development for garments for high-tech applications.

The researchers involved eagerly await future collaborations in this promising field of research. This pilot project presented at ISPO 2021 was coordinated by the company FOURSOURCE Group GmbH, thus enabling the characterization and 3D visualization of the award-winning materials that are presented to all visitors at ISPO 2021.

• DushaGreya is a well-known brand from talented Moscow-based designer, Natalia Dushagreya, who puts her all into her unique creations.

Combining her outstanding creativity with cutting-edge digital printing technology, Natalia has been delighting women with eye-catching, comfortable clothes, which boast unparalleled individuality and vivacity for several years. “The quality of digital prints surpasses that of traditional fabrics, both in the variety of colour compositions and in the contrast and clarity when printing small details or complex geometric elements. Digital technology makes it possible to achieve exceptionally smooth colour transitions, which is almost unattainable when using analogue printing methods. As a designer, I make sure to fully leverage the advantages of digital printing when designing and producing my collection”, says Natalia.

By the time the DushaGreya brand begun, Natalia and her like-minded associate and father, Alexander Kordovatov, already had experience in the field of sublimation printing and knew that printing on fabric for subsequent tailoring would be carried out using this technology. However, no third-party performers could be found that would meet the quality and deadline requirements of the brand, so they decided to purchase new equipment and start printing at their own site. 

Alexander says. “We also found out that Smart-T (Mimaki's distributor in Russia), the supplier of this equipment in Moscow, is highly rated by the industry community and customers due to its professional expertise, first-line service support, and highly qualified engineers.” At the end of 2019, Smart-T installed the highly anticipated Mimaki Tx300P-1800 direct textile printer at the DushaGreya facility. Today it prints fabrics for dresses, skirts, T-shirts, fleeces, jumpers, hoodies, trench coats, and other midwear.

"Mimaki Tx300P-1800 is the only printer in the Mimaki line that allows us to print on natural fabrics without pre-processing,” Alexander comments. “This gives us the ability to produce short, original print runs at no extra cost, which is vital in achieving our goals. The TP400 pigment inks used in this printer have an expanded colour gamut, so the prints are always bright and saturated.”

A polybutylene succinate (PBS) polycondensation system was commissioned at Yingkou Kanghui Petrochemical Co. Ltd. in Dalian in the Chinese Liaoning Province at the beginning of January 2021. The PBS system, for which Oerlikon Barmag Huitong Engineering supplied both equipment and engineering, has a daily production capacity of 100 tons

It is used to manufacture high-viscosity chips for biodegradable films. Consequently, Yingkou Kanghui, a subsidiary of the Hengli Group, is catering to rising demand for biodegradable polymer products – demand that is increasing not just in China, but across the globe. Yingkou Kanghui Petrochemical Co., Ltd., founded in 2011, predominantly produces polyester chips and films. By expanding its portfolio to include the manufacture of PBS products, the enterprise is positioning itself as a pioneer of biopolymer production: In view of the large quantities of plastic waste not just in the oceans, biopolymers are considered the materials of the future.

The new plant at Yingkou Kanghui Petrochemical Co, Ltd. was production-ready with the support of Oerlikon Barmag Huitong Engineering within less than 14 months following contract signing.