From the Sector

For the second year running, Global Standard is taking consumers #BehindTheSeams this September, highlighting the sustainable and social qualities of GOTS-certified products – from runway fashion to hygiene products and so much more in between. Building on the success of last year, #BehindTheSeams 2024 has expanded to take over the entire month, Sept. 2-30, with more education on the people and practices making sustainable textiles, plus giveaways planned each day.

Throughout September, Global Standard introduces daily giveaways on Instagram, featuring partnerships with GOTS-certified brands such as Frugi, FC St. Pauli, LangerChen, Natracare, Mandala, Dedicated, and more. Additionally, a giveaway will be hosted on behindtheseams.eco, where visitors can learn about sustainability by answering daily questions while earning entries. The grand prize is a sustainable trip to Paris. This includes train travel, a two-night stay at the eco-friendly Eden Lodge Paris and a private fitting for a custom GOTS-certified jacket by John Preston, the only brand offering made-to-measure GOTS-certified fashion.

#BehindTheSeams is also spotlighting "organic in-conversion" farming and urging brands to support farmers during the critical transition period from conventional to organic. In this campaign, GOTS has partnered with the Organic Cotton Accelerator, an organisation dedicated to supporting farmers throughout the cotton supply chain as they make the shift to and sustain organic practices. Together, GOTS and OCA want to send a message that brands can bolster the organic cotton supply by investing in and buying organic in-conversion cotton.

Polartec, a Milliken & Company brand and the creator of innovative and sustainable textile solutions, introduces PEOPLE, the second chapter in Polartec’s "Beyond Begins Today" campaign. Featuring Sierra Quitiquit (Pro Skier, Influencer and Environmental Activist), Helgi Oskarsson (CEO, 66°North), and Tyler Maheu (Senior Account Manager, Polartec), chapter two explores the role of People and how each individual's voice contributes to building a more sustainable future.

As a global initiative through which Polartec aims to raise awareness and unity around important universal themes including sustainability, diversity and positive change, "Beyond Begins Today" leverages static and multimedia content published on multiple touchpoints and channels throughout the year. Chapter 2: People, is the second of three chapters that comprise this global initiative, with the first and third chapters dedicated to Planet and Product respectively. Viewed singularly or as a whole, the content is rooted in the underlying premise that the future is what we make it; extending to the fundamental belief that if we change behaviors, we can change the narrative. For our Planet. For our People. For our Products.

"Beyond Begins Today" looks at how Polartec fabrics are made to last, and to be used and enjoyed from one generation to the next and beyond. It explores the monomaterials, repurposed plastic and the plant-based nylon membranes that Polartec uses to set new standards for high performance fabrics; the ambitious climate-related objectives across the entire value chain that exceed existing mandates.

eVent Fabrics, a company in waterproof and breathable technologies, is looking to the future and offering their partner brands eVent BIO and eVent alpineST technologies. Both are made without PFAS and are compliant with regulations requiring the removal of PFAS chemicals from many consumer products.

eVent BIO
eVent BIO is a bio-based membrane technology that uses sustainable materials to provide all-weather protection and performance. At the laminate technology’s core are renewable plant-based and biomass elements paired with smartly-sourced or recycled face and backer fabrics. Light, tough and flexible, eVent BIO has a reduced carbon footprint and is recyclable when it reaches the end of its lifecycle.

alpineST
alpineST is a sustainable alternative to ePTFE products that provides waterproofness, breathability, and protection in the harshest environments. Created with the planet in mind, alpineST products are built around a fluorine-free membrane laminated to recycled face fabrics. With an initial waterproofness of 25K, alpineST maintains a water column of 20K after dozens of washes.

Trützschler and the Indian company Gimatex have a long relationship that began in 2006. Gimatex has used Trützschler’s IDF in direct spinning and are now using it to turn textile waste into ring yarn.

Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd. operates fully integrated facilities with ginning, spinning, recycling, weaving and processing units in Hinganghat, within India’s cotton-growing region of Vidarbha. It also runs a fabric processing unit in Dholka, near Ahmedabad. Together, Trützschler and Gimatex are working in close collaboration with the shared aim of extending that long history far into the future.

Trützschler’s Integrated Draw Frame (IDF) technology is at the heart of this collaboration. Gimatex is using these solutions to produce high-quality yarn. In particular, IDF enables Gimatex to produce yarns from a wide variety of raw materials – from 100 percent cotton through to polyester, recycled fibers and blends of various different inputs.

Gimatex mainly uses Trützschler IDF to manufacture rotor yarns in a direct spinning process. Direct spinning means shortening the spinning process by eliminating draw frame passages. Fiber slivers are fed directly from the card into the integrated drafting passage. This direct spinning concept uses less electricity and less space than conventional draw frame passages, which helps Gimatex to cut costs while increasing output volumes – with no compromise in quality. Most often, IDF technology is used for rotor and vortex spinning. However, the team at Gimatex is now also one of the first spinning mills in India to develop a special IDF process for producing traditional and recycled ring yarn. This allows the company to leverage the same setup it uses for open-end yarn. The ring yarn produced in this unusual way is mostly coarser varieties and recycling blends for cotton / spandex (lycra) products, with Ne 10s and Ne 16s. The yarn goes through a blow room into a TC 15 card with IDF, before entering a Trützschler TD 10 draw frame, a speed frame and a ring frame.

Neste is expanding its logistics infrastructure for liquefied recycled raw materials at its refinery in Porvoo, Finland, including materials such as liquefied waste plastic and liquefied rubber tires. This lays the foundation to handling larger amounts of liquefied raw materials to support Neste’s strategic aims to advance chemical recycling and transform the Porvoo refinery into a renewable and circular solutions hub.

The new logistics installations comprise dedicated unloading facilities: At the refinery’s harbor, Neste is building an unloading arm with a heating system as well as pipelines to connect the harbor with dedicated storage tanks. Unlike regular crude oil, liquefied waste plastic or discarded rubber tires require heating to stay liquid. At the same time, the systems need to come with higher resistance to corrosion. In addition to the unloading arm and pipelines, Neste is also building a vapor recovery unit, contributing to emission control of the operations.

The new logistics infrastructure is expected to be completed in 2024. It will, therefore, be available when Neste finishes construction of its liquefied waste plastic upgrading unit at the Porvoo refinery, which is currently being built as part of the project PULSE, planned to be finalized during 2025. At the upgrading unit, the liquefied raw materials are turned into high-quality feedstock for the plastics and chemicals industry.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the conference program for Hygienix™ 2024, November 18-21, The Renaissance Nashville Hotel, Nashville, TN. This year’s theme, “Driving Absorbent Hygiene Product Innovation: Consumer Desires, Market Dynamics & Sustainability Solutions,” will provide insights into the latest industry advancements.

Event highlights include:

Pre-conference webinars

• “Non-PFAS Hydrophobic Technology for Polypropylene Nonwovens”
• “Harnessing AI to Enhance Transparency and Trust in Brand Sustainability”

Workshops (Monday, November 18th)

• “Fundamentals of Absorption Systems and Opportunities in Adult Incontinence”
• “Innovations in Menstrual Care”
• “Baby and Infant Care Market Dynamics”

Networking opportunities

• Lunch Arounds with founders of successful hygiene start-ups
• Lightning Talks – supercharged elevator pitches
• Tabletop Exhibits of leading-edge absorbent hygiene suppliers
• Receptions – three extended networking events

Presentation Preview

• Absorbent Hygiene Insights, LLC, “Exploring the Performance of Polyaspartic Acid Superabsorbents in Hygiene Products”
• China National Household Paper Industry Association (CNHPIA), “Latest Development of Disposable Hygiene Products Industry in China”
• Glatfelter Industries (France) SAS, “Capitalizing on Capabilities to Support the Shifting Hygiene Industry”
• Gottlieb Binder GmbH & Co. KG, “Synergy of Components - Upstream Advancements Offering Downstream Sustainability Opportunities”
• Handas Consulting, “The Intersection of Nonwovens, Sustainability and the Environment: An African Perspective”
• INDA, “UN Plastics Treaty Update”
• INDA, “Business Not as Usual – The Impact of Reusables on the Absorbent Hygiene Market”
• Curt G. Joa, Inc., “Efficient Material Utilization in Hygienic Incontinence Articles”
• Joii Ltd., “Using Nonwoven Period Care Products and an AI-backed Mobile Application to Diagnose Heavy Menstrual Bleeding”
• Kuraray Europe GmbH, “Connecting Consumer Insights with AHPs: Designing Elastics & Naturality”
• The LYCRA Company, “From Farm to Fiber: Developing Elastane with 70% Renewable Content”
• MyMicrobiome GmbH, “The Menopausal Skin Microbiome – What Do You Need to Know?”
• Price Hanna Consultants LLC, “Shifting Sands in the Global Economy for Absorbent Hygiene Products”
• Principle Business Enterprises, “The High Cost of Adult Incontinence”
• RPK Consulting, “Shifting to Sustainability: Natural Fibers in Diapers and the Rise of Eco Brands”
• Texol S.R.L., “Functional Substrates to Preserve Skin Microbiome”
• SK Leaveo, “Comprehensive Sustainability in Hygiene Products: Exploring Biodegradable Alternatives and Circular Economy”
• SPARK Solutions For Growth, “There’s an App for That! The New World of Incontinence Tech”
• University of Pennsylvania, Division of Urology, “Latest Medical & Surgical Treatment for Incontinence”
• ZymoChem, “The Final Frontier: A Bio-Based Source for Super Absorbents”

Hygienix Innovation Award™
A highlight of the event, the Hygienix Innovation Award™ will feature presentations from three finalists on Tuesday, November 19th. The winner, to be announced on Thursday, November 21st, will be recognized for their innovative contributions to absorbent hygiene products. Nominations are open until September 16th, 2024. Last year’s winner, Sequel Spiral™ Tampon, received FDA clearance in August 2023 and is expected to be widely available in 2024.

The Lenzing Group has been awarded platinum status in the EcoVadis CSR rating. The rating comprehensively covers the four most important practices in the area of corporate social responsibility: environment, fair working conditions and human rights, ethics, and sustainable procurement.

For the fourth time in a row, Lenzing has been awarded platinum status by EcoVadis. This puts Lenzing in the top one percent of companies rated by EcoVadis worldwide. Lenzing achieved the greatest progress this year in the categories of sustainable procurement and ethics. Lenzing also outperformed the previous year in the areas of labor and human rights as well as certifications. Since its foundation in 2007, EcoVadis has developed into on of the largest and most trusted providers of sustainability ratings for companies and has created a global network of more than 130,000 rated companies worldwide. The methodological framework evaluates companies' policies, measures and activities, as well as their published reports on the environment, labor and human rights, ethics, and sustainable procurement.

In line with its "Naturally Positive" sustainability strategy, the Lenzing Group has set ambitious targets in each of its core strategic areas to further strengthen its transition from a linear to a circular economy model. Every year, Lenzing provides updates on its sustainability initiatives and the progress made in its annual sustainability report. This level of commitment and transparency was also positively emphasized by EcoVadis in its assessment.

bluesign and SCTI donate the Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI) Methodology to ZDHC aiming to advance sustainable chemistry within the textile industry. This collaboration aims to revolutionize chemical management in the textile, leather and fashion industries, while addressing environmental impact in a holistic manner.

For decades, the use of hazardous chemicals in clothing has been a major challenge. Despite industry efforts with numerous overlapping standards and voluntary schemes - the textile, leather and fashion industries struggle with varying regulations, inconsistent data and a lack of common action. Inconsistent regulations, limited transparency, and little coordinated action hinder progress, while consumers do not receive information about the overall environmental impact of these industries.

Leading organizations in the textile sector are elevating the conversation to tackle these issues head-on with converging assessment tools.

SCTI, a group of innovative and pioneering chemical manufacturers, aims to bring positive change to the textile industry and make sustainable chemistry the norm. bluesign has extensive experience in ensuring safe and responsible chemical management, environmental and worker safety as well as resource efficiency in the production of textiles. The ZDHC Foundation, driven by major fashion brands, is on a mission to detox the fashion industry by providing tools and guidelines for sustainable chemical management.
The Start of the Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI):
In 2022, SCTI and bluesign announced the development of the first comprehensive Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI) for the textile industry. The pioneering work leverages best available technologies, while transcending existing chemical assessments, and introduces a one-stop-shopping tool for a broader assessment of environmental impact. Such an approach was missing. Now, the SCI introduces a standard common language for convergence and alignment throughout global textile.

The SCI brings new parameters to assess how chemical products improve resource utilisation in the processes they are used along the life cycle of a garment. Key building blocks include supply chain transparency, responsible sourcing, feedstock reducing fossil dependency, product carbon footprint, resource consumption, efficiency in use during textile production, end use impact and end-of-life of consumer applications. This transparent framework makes it easier for the industry to evaluate the sustainability impact of chemicals present in a garment and promote circularity.

A Collaborative Donation to Advance the Industry:
To advance and foster industry-wide collaboration, SCTI and bluesign are donating, the SCI to ZDHC as the cornerstone of its Chemicals to Zero (CTZ-A) program. CTZ-A represents the highest level of sustainable chemistry within ZDHC. In 2024, the SCI content will undergo ZDHC's stakeholder engagement and consultation processes, aiming to enhance the Roadmap to Zero Program by addressing sustainability and circularity. ZDHC will make the SCI content freely available to the public, enabling widespread adoption and impact.

The ZDHC program is well-positioned to complement the expertise of bluesign and SCTI and to scale its impact within a multistakeholder structure. This collaboration empowers manufacturers and brands to make informed, responsible choices in terms of chemicals and processes, committing to sustainable chemistry and benefiting society.

Fashion for Good and its footwear partners adidas, Inditex, ON Running, PVH Corp., Reformation, Target, and Zalando announce a new initiative aimed at accelerating and validating the next generation of footwear innovations. This builds on the organisation’s existing work leveraging their expertise in scouting, validation, innovation and collaboration. This initiative will address the key intervention points needed to drive footwear circularity spanning four work streams across the supply chain from materials to end of use. Industry wide collaboration will be vital to overcome the various roadblocks we face in this space. Therefore, Fashion for Good is launching a call for action, asking all relevant innovators to apply and collaborators to join in the movement.

Around 23.9Bn shoes are produced globally each year, they are often made using over 40 different components from a range of different materials including TPU, EVA, PU and rubber. The industry faces significant challenges due to this high complexity of shoe construction. This combined with a low collection rate, results in a vast majority of discarded footwear ending up in landfills. Fashion for Good sees the need to address this challenge and focus on laying the foundation for footwear circularity as well as accelerating innovation.

Therefore, Fashion for Good will double down their work in this space, building on their existing projects including the Fast Feet Grinded pilot, which tests and validates Fast Feet Grinded's footwear recycling process. Expanding on existing workstreams Fashion for Good will collaborate with our footwear focused partners, including adidas, Inditex, ON Running, PVH Corp., Reformation, Target, and Zalando

To effectively address the challenges in footwear sustainability, Fashion for Good has identified the key intervention points across the shoe lifecycle and structured work into four core workstreams:

1. Materials - Scouting and validating sustainable alternatives for footwear materials including TPU, PU, EVA, leather, and rubber
2. Design - Defining circular design in the footwear space and collectively driving guidelines to build a circular infrastructure
3. End of Use: Sorting, Disassembly, & Recycling - Developing a comprehensive data set on post-consumer footwear waste flows, including (non-)rewearable fractions, volumes, construction and composition. As well as scouting and validating solutions for repair,  end of use, disassembly and recycling of footwear
4. Traceability - Laying the foundation by amalgamating a footwear traceability data protocol to build traceability for evidence to substantiate sustainability claims

CALL FOR INNOVATIONS
Fashion for Good is on the lookout for breakthrough sustainable solutions in the footwear sector that maintain performance and durability. If you have a relevant technology, whether you're an innovator, university, or established company, can apply by 20th September 2024 here.

CARBIOS and SASA, a manufacturer of polyester, fiber, filament yarn, polyester-based polymers, specialty polymers and intermediates, have signed a Letter of Intent (LOI) to cooperate through SASA’s potential acquisition of a license for CARBIOS’ unique PET biorecycling technology. This licensing agreement would allow SASA to construct and operate an enzymatic depolymerization plant in Adana, Turkey, with a capacity of 100,000 tons per year of prepared PET waste, and would give access to a circular recycling technology, enabling the production of polyester pellets, fibers and textiles from various waste sources, including polyester textile waste. With CARBIOS' biorecycling technology, SASA would diversify its offering to meet the growing global demand for sustainable materials in the textile industry, primarily catering to the European market.

Less than 1% of textile waste is currently recycled into new textile fibers^[1].  With European regulations moving towards the incorporation of more recycled content (at least 20% of recycled fibers by 2030), demand for recycled polyester in the EU is anticipated to increase, naturally positioning Turkey as a major producer alongside Asian countries.  In this context, SASA is striving to become the largest supplier of high value-added polyester in the region and beyond. To achieve this, SASA aims to introduce recycling as part of its activities, which already encompass the whole value chain from PET production to fiber and textile conversion. CARBIOS’ PET biorecycling technology plays an important part in SASA’s ongoing transformation strategy, which includes back integration, capacity expansion, even higher competitiveness, as well as circularity.

CARBIOS has developed a enzymatic depolymerization technology that enables efficient and solvent-free recycling of PET plastic and textile waste into virgin-like products. CARBIOS has ambitious plans to become a leading technology provider in the recycling of PET by 2035. After the recent announcement of a joint Letter of Intent with Zhink Group in China, this new Letter of Intent for a potential licensing agreement in Europe confirms global traction for CARBIOS biorecycling technology, and marks another significant step in the international roll-out of its licensing model. In addition to the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant which is currently under construction in Longlaville, France, this potential plant in Turkey would process PET waste that is currently not recyclable using conventional recycling technologies.

[1] System Circularity and Innovative Recycling of Textiles | Circular Cities and Regions Initiative (europa.eu)