From the Sector

The 56th INNATEX in Frankfurt addresses urgent issues in the Green Fashion sector. From 19 to 21 July 2025 at the Messecenter Hofheim RheinMain, the international trade fair for sustainable textiles offers not only an exhibition of more than 200 Green Fashion labels but also a range of new elements. As a general trend, a rise in the number of young, progressive HERITAGE brands is evident.  

Increase turnover with the right digital strategy 
First there will be a motivating presentation by CDH Mitte (the wholesale and retail industry association for the German states of Hessen, Thuringia and Rhineland Palatinate) entitled ‘Digitalisation that sells – how textile and lifestyle brands are actually reaching new customers today’. Speaker Meltem Alca demonstrates, with the aid of a digital showroom, how emotive appeals to customers and modern sales psychology work. The presentation is aimed at fashion designers, labels, agencies and retailers. 

“Nowadays, anyone wanting to increase sales needs to sell in the same way that people make decisions – personally, intuitively, digitally,” says Meltem Alca. “Video, voice and neuro-sales tools make relationship-based sales strategies easier. These new concepts enable customers to be addressed through emotions, they are brain-friendly and they are measurable.” 
Likewise new to the programme is the Handelsverband Hessen’s expert session ‘Security in retail: shoplifting, rights, prevention’. In this Q&A session, Manuel Hable (Head of Security & Fraud Prevention at JC New Retail AG, the holding company for the Peek & Cloppenburg Group), Ina Kasperski (police superintendent at the State of Hessen Office of Criminal Investigation) and Stefan Siegel (Managing Director of security firm Rentario Sicherheitsmanagement GmbH) will be providing practical suggestions for dealing with a problem affecting physical retail stores ever more frequently. 
 
Foresight, progress and world events 
The keynote speech ‘On the state of sustainable fashion: what is important now’ explores why, despite climate change, the focus on sustainability is reducing while fast fashion flourishes. Speaker Nina Lorenzen of Fashion Changers presents the background and the opportunities that arise, even – in fact especially – for smaller businesses. 

“We all share the vision of a fair and sustainable world, but without a strategic view of sales, profitability and readiness to continue developing, businesses no longer get very far,” says Alexander Hitzel, INNATEX Project Manager. “That may seem obvious but it’s not at all easy in practice. From digitalisation and increasing levels of shoplifting to societal trends, change is evident on many different levels. Companies would do well to respond to this and act for the long term.” 

Three days of inspiration for fashion folk 
In the foyer, on all three days of the fair, Lena Huber will be welcoming visitors and exhibitors and sparking a fascination for plant-based textile dyeing. Fashion professionals can discover techniques for handling natural dyes in this interactive dyeing workshop staged in association with Fashion Campus 2030 and Halt.Clothing. 

Further highlights of the programme include the Community Talks with moderator Mirjam Smend (Greenstyle Munich): one of her panels concerns ideas for the circular economy (‘The second, third, fourth chance: keeping fashion and materials in circulation’), while the other looks at fashion that unites the zeitgeist and timelessness (‘Made to last: contemporary fashion with substance and attitude’). 

More and more younger brands 
The in-demand DESIGN DISCOVERIES, companies exhibiting at INNATEX for the first time, bring together some very diverse themes. mor Khadi Streetwear combines hand-spun denim from India with a casual street style. The latest line from the Berlin-based Zamt label creates minimalist unisex designs from deadstock materials. Sloppy Tunas is bringing along boardshorts made from recycled materials, while moefe has women’s office-wear in organic cotton. First-time exhibitors include Rotholz with casual coolness for women and men, and Patron Socks in fun patterns.

After being previewed at key industry events like Kingpins Amsterdam and Denim Première Vision Milan and following the success of several industrial-scale trials, Officina39 announces the official launch of ZeroPP|ALL.IN, a breakthrough process that allows for the complete replacement of Potassium Permanganate (PP) in denim finishing. The innovation lies in a significant simplification: the entire workflow can now be performed directly onto raw garments using just one product, making the system more accessible, efficient, and sustainable than ever before.

Despite its well-documented toxicity and environmental risks, PP remains widely used for its ability to deliver worn, vintage effects at low cost. Finding a viable replacement has been a key challenge for the industry, until now. Finally, Officina39 presents a unique innovative product that replaces Potassium Permanganate at the beginning of the process and can be applied directly to raw garments.

ZeroPP|ALL.IN offers a four-step workflow:

1. Spray or nebulization application – The ZeroPP|ALL.IN single product is applied directly onto raw denim garments.
2. Laser marking – Performed immediately after ZeroPP|ALL.IN single product application, to define graphics or wear patterns.
3. Dry Ozone treatment – Executed immediately after Laser marking without rinsing; ozone reacts with the laser-marked areas to replicate the typical indigo corrosion of PP.
4. Final washes and finishing – To deliver the complete, ready-to-market garment. This one-cycle process reduces time, energy, and water consumption, while enhancing safety, transparency, and creative control. It’s the ultimate solution for brands and laundries aiming to transition away from hazardous legacy practices, positioning ZeroPP|ALL.IN as a feasible and cost-efficient real solution for the industry.

“ZeroPP|ALL.IN represents the fulfillment of a path we began years ago,” says Andrea Venier, Managing Director of Officina39. “Through continuous refinement, real-world  testing, and feedback from our customers and partners, we’ve achieved a true turning point. The result is a streamlined, single-product process applied directly to raw garments, finally making the full replacement of Potassium Permanganate both sustainable and industrially viable.”

The textile industry continues to face growing regulatory and market pressures to shift toward more sustainable and inclusive production models.

Launched at the June Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2025, the Fashion Impact Toolkit provides an impact inventory and framework to help textile companies navigate sustainability  challenges. This interactive resource is designed for companies across the complex textile value chain, from raw material producers and retailers to recyclers and remanufacturers, and is applicable across major sub-sectors, including high-street fashion, luxury, footwear, sportswear, and textile manufacturing. It can serve as a starting point to help companies map their areas of influence based on parameters such as materials, processes, and geographies.

“We hope that the Fashion Impact Toolkit will be a valuable resource for the textile industry as it navigates increasing regulatory and stakeholder pressure,” says Federica Marchionni, CEO of the Global Fashion Agenda. “By identifying and acting upon the most critical sustainability implications across the value chain, companies can foster greater resilience, trust, and long-term transformation. We are proud to collaborate with Deloitte to support this much-needed shift.”

Developing an impact inventory
The Fashion Impact Toolkit outlines nearly 3,000 potential impacts across value chain stages, including challenges and opportunities, to help inform leaders’ decision-making. Geographical scoping was applied to serve as the basis for identifying potential impacts across the main stages of the textile lifecycle.

The resulting value chain mapping and impact inventory highlight key hotspots and pressure points across six distinct stages: production of materials, garments manufacturing, product distribution and use, end-of-life management, material recycling, and high-value recovery activities.

A framework to help drive transformation
The interactive Fashion Impact Toolkit is structured according to the current European Financial Reporting Advisory Group’s (EFRAG) European Sustainability Reporting Standards (ESRS). To help organizations navigate the toolkit and turn insights into action, the toolkit follows a seven-step framework: 

1. Identify the position in the value chain
2. Generate material- and geography-specific insights
3. Translate potential sector-wide impacts to company-specific ones
4. Quantify the identified potential impacts
5. Define the risks and opportunities
6. Shape the ambition and strategy
7. Collaborate for systemic change

A stepping stone to circular transition
The Fashion Impact Toolkit can serve as a stepping stone toward a circular economy. Circular strategies can help reduce a wide range of identified environmental impacts and can be effective in building resilience across the value chain. 

Outlast Technologies, a global pioneer in temperature regulation, announces the launch of a next-generation fabric developed in collaboration with Reggiani Group, Italy’s renowned innovator in luxury textiles. This latest advancement is designed to elevate thermal com-fort across fashion, casualwear, and performance apparel - offering intelligent climate con-trol without compromise.

The new fabrics are the result of an intense collaboration between the two companies, combining Outlast’s patented temperature regulating technology with Reggiani’s heritage of textile excellence. At its core is a system of microcapsules filled with natural wax that absorb, store, and release heat as needed - constantly adapting to changes in body activity and ambient temperature. The result is a dynamic textile that keeps wearers in their com-fort zone, regardless of climate or activity level.

Engineered for discerning brands in high-end fashion, luxury athleisure, and technical sportswear, the fabric meets the evolving expectations of today’s consumers - who demand both advanced performance and responsible production. Developed using sustainable pro-cesses and carefully selected materials, the fabric reflects both companies’ deep commit-ment to innovation with purpose.

With this launch, Outlast and Reggiani Group are redefining what premium fabrics can achieve - fusing functionality, sustainability, and elegance into a single textile platform tailored for the next generation of apparel.

“This collaboration is a natural step in our Group’s ongoing pursuit of cutting-edge textile solutions,” says Giovanni Reggiani, CEO of Reggiani Group. “By combining Outlast’s tech-nological expertise with our tradition of material innovation, we have created a fabric that anticipates the needs of the future,” ads Marco Spola, General Manager of the Group.

“In a world of constant temperature shifts - from climate-controlled offices to parked cars baking in the sun - these fabrics allow wearers to stay comfortable without a second thought,” said Luca Nicolo, Outlast Sales Agent for Italy and France. “Our collaboration with Reggiani represents the perfect synergy between breakthrough technology and textile craftsmanship, and we’re proud to introduce this innovation to Europe and beyond.”

In a constantly evolving fashion landscape, where aesthetics meets awareness and luxury evolves beyond simple beauty, where materials are called to embody wellbeing, responsibility and versatility, Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei stands as a rare material: precious in its origin, essential to the experience.

Rare because it is produced exclusively by Asahi Kasei in Japan through a highly specialized, and closed-loop process. Rare because it originates from cotton linters — a natural derived pre-consumer material — and accounts for only 0.02% of global fiber production. Rare because it offers a one-of-a-kind aesthetic, sensorial and functional identity, recognized and valued by designers and brands worldwide.

But Bemberg™ is not simply rare — IT IS A FIBER TO LIVE. Its true value unfolds through experience: worn, touched, and explored across diverse lifestyles and when the occasion arises. With its silky softness, fluid drape, luminous appearance, moisture management and skin-friendly comfort, Bemberg™ offers an unparalleled sense of wellbeing to the wearer — ensuring freshness in summer, warmth in winter (especially when blended with other fibers), and a constant feeling of ease, elegance and comfort. This is why Bemberg™ represents not only a technical fiber, but a true partner for those who seek comfort in motion, sophistication in simplicity, and responsible elegance in every moment.

Born 94 years ago in Japan by Asahi Kasei, Bemberg™ has evolved far beyond its origins, becoming a versatile material for multiple categories and hybrid wardrobes: from high-end outerwear to intimate apparel, from fluid knitwear to athleisure and lifestyle collections. Whether in luxury tailoring, couture surfaces, performance wear or modern ceremonial dressing, Bemberg™ elevates each garment through its distinctive touch and graceful adaptability. It is a fiber that opens new creative doors, allowing designers to build collections where design, innovation and responsibility coexist harmoniously. As fashion enters a new era of fluid silhouettes, sensorial materials, and conscious luxury, Bemberg™ offers an exclusive creative platform for brands that seek not just beauty, but meaning and elevated values.

In addition, Bemberg™ carries a prestigious heritage rooted in circular economy values. Produced exclusively in Japan from cotton linters — a natural, pre-consumer material — Bemberg™ embodies a unique form of RESPONSIBLE INNOVATION. Regenerated cellulose obtained from the manufacturing process of cottonseed oil through a closed-loop process ensures transparency and traceability, delivering certified sustainability credentials, including RCS, OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100, ISO 14001, and biodegradability certification (OK biodegradable MARINE certification by TÜV Austria).

At the heart of Bemberg™’s journey is a collaborative network of European partners: spinners, weavers, knitters, and finishers. Partnerships that are essential to ACTIVATE the values and the potential of the fiber, transforming it into high-end fabrics that respond to the needs of a contemporary, conscious and sophisticated wardrobe. Bemberg™ IS NOT SIMPLY  meant to be WORN, but  to be  LIVED.  

At Milano Unica, Première Vision, A Fabric Affair NYC and Feel The Yarn, Bemberg™ partners present their latest developments for Fall/Winter 2026-2027 — a collective journey where smart fiber, design, and craftsmanship converge to redefine the future of premium fashion.

Sparxell, the Cambridge-based colour platform technology company founded by University of Cambridge scientists Dr Benjamin Droguet and Professor Silvia Vignolini, has announced the launch of its first textile ink derived from its revolutionary dye-free pigments in partnership with Positive Materials, marking a pivotal moment in making sustainable colour technology accessible to fashion brands worldwide.

Sparxell’s textile ink represents the world's first commercially available plant-based, biodegradable colouring solution that is bioinspired, eliminating toxic dyes, synthetic plastics and mined metals and minerals whilst delivering exceptional performance standards.

Launching in Sparxell’s signature blue, the ink is available in matte and shimmer finishes – enabling brands to integrate the breakthrough technology through standard orders rather than bespoke projects. 

This milestone represents a significant step towards democratising access to sustainable colour innovation across the fashion industry, from emerging designers to established high-end houses and mass-market brands.

Sparxell’s textile ink is available from the end of June 2025, with printing orders processed through Positive Materials. Partnership rollout includes an all-over printed cotton jersey featuring Sparxell's breakthrough technology, available from September 2025 in European markets.

The initial blue colour launch represents the first of multiple colours planned for release throughout 2025, with Sparxell's bio-inspired platform enabling virtually unlimited colour variations.

Sparxell's textile ink harnesses the same structural colour principles found in nature such as in Morpho butterfly wings, engineering plant-based cellulose at the microscale to create vibrant colours through light manipulation rather than chemical formulas. This bio-inspired approach eliminates toxic dyes, mined metals and minerals, and petroleum-based materials whilst delivering superior colour vibrancy and durability.

Launch textile production is powered by Sparxell's partnership with Positive Materials, a leading textile company operating at the intersection of design, technology, and manufacturing.

Positive Materials supports the validation and scale-up of Sparxell's breakthrough by integrating it into its existing production infrastructure, providing the manufacturing expertise and operational capacity needed to take the technology from prototype to production-ready. 

The partnership enables Sparxell to scale production whilst maintaining strict sustainability standards throughout the manufacturing process.

Dr Benjamin Droguet, Founder and CEO of Sparxell, said:
"This textile ink launch transforms how brands can access our breakthrough technology. For too long, the textile industry had no choice other than to accept that vibrant colours meant environmental damage. Sparxell's bio-inspired technology shatters that assumption, delivering exceptional results from plant-based cellulose.

“This is just the beginning - our vision is to make bio-inspired colour technology the new standard across fashion, proving that high performance and working in harmony with nature are perfectly aligned."
Elsa Parente, Co-CEO and CTO of Positive Materials, said: 
"Rather than requiring custom development projects, fashion designers and procurement teams can now order the most sustainable colourant options out there as easily as conventional alternatives, but with the added benefit of containing 100% biodegradable pigments that are free from toxic chemicals.

“Our collaboration with Sparxell represents exactly the kind of innovation the textile industry needs, aligning perfectly with our mission to create low-impact textiles that don't compromise on performance."

The textile ink launch addresses growing industry demand for sustainable alternatives as the global textile industry currently uses over 10,000 different chemicals in colouration processes, releasing 1.5 million tonnes of toxic dyes into the environment annually contributing up to 2% of global GHG emissions.[1][2] Sparxell's plant-based solution significantly reduces energy need and water consumption whilst eliminating harmful chemical pollution.

The launch builds on Sparxell's recent commercial momentum, including a €1.9 million grant from the European Innovation Council and participation in LVMH's prestigious La Maison des Startups accelerator programme.

Lower costs, less energy intensive, and with zero waste water, the new QuantumCOLOUR™ process is set to revolutionize wool textile colouring: Woolmark, the global authority on wool, has teamed up with COLOURizd™, pioneers in dry textile colouring processes, to introduce a revolutionary new method to colour wool and wool blends. 

QuantumCOLOUR™ is a cutting-edge yarn colouring process that significantly reduces resource consumption and costs. Using just 0.5L of water per kilogram of yarn, this technology eliminates the need for bleaching, pre-treatment and wastewater discharge. This makes the COLOURizd™ QuantumCOLOUR™ a reduced resource-intense colouration process, where only the wetting agent and pigment binder system are required.

“After extensive testing on Merino wool and wool blends, we realized the team at COLOURizd™ is on to something truly revolutionary for the wool industry,” said Woolmark General Manager Processing Innovation & Education Extension Julie Davies. “The QuantumCOLOUR™ process provides durable solutions, creating faded to saturated tonal depths of colour for wool and wool blends. And since it uses very little water, suppliers can choose to colour wool and wool blend yarns without the need for wastewater processing infrastructure.”

Traditional dyeing requires a variety of chemicals, including caustic soda, acids, bleach, and salts, all washed in with between 60 and 120 liters of water per kilogram of yarn. The COLOURizd™ method uses none of these chemicals, instead utilising a bluesign® certified pigment and binder injected into a yarn fibre bundle. The result is a process that allows for a range of colours and supple textures.

“Woolmark represents the gold standard within the wool industry and they will be instrumental in helping to offer our lower impact, higher performance process to new markets,” said COLOURizd™ CEO Jennifer Thompson. “Our current clients include Kontoor Brands (Wrangler and Lee), Cone Denim, and GANT, and working with Woolmark will allow us to reach an entirely new market, bringing sustainability and performance solutions to wool manufacturers around the globe.”

Successfully validated on 100% Merino wool, as well as blends with cotton, TENCEL™ and nylon, on a range of yarn counts from 30/2NM to 80/1NM, the COLOURizd™ QuantumCOLOUR™ pigment process meets all standards for colourfastness and durability. Assessed through authorised laboratory partners, Woolmark testing was carried out on yarns, fabrics and garments, showing the technology delivers consistent colour performance and long-lasting wear.

Woolmark and COLOURizd™ will introduce this new technology during Pitti Immagine Filati.

Textile solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan will participate in the Future Fabrics Expo 2025 exhibition in London, England, 24th – 25th June. Held during London Climate Action Week, Future Fabrics Expo showcases sustainably and responsibly produced materials to the textile industry, and is considered a platform for exchange of knowledge and sourcing of sustainable textiles, materials and leading innovations for fashion, home and interior brands. 
 
SHIMA SEIKI is showcasing just such an innovation in the form of its APEXFiz® subscription-based design software. APEXFiz® supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling for various textiles including flat knitting, circular knitting, weaving, pile weave, socks, embroidery and print. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. Virtual samples can furthermore be used in e-commerce to gauge consumer demand before production begins, allowing production to be adjusted to optimize inventory and minimize leftover waste. Virtual sampling on APEXFiz® thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain. 
 
SHIMA SEIKI will be displaying virtual sample swatches at both the Curated Textiles Area and the SHIMA SEIKI booth to demonstrate just how real and expressive digital simulations can be. Virtual sampling is not limited in use for product planning and design by visitors, but is perfect for consideration by fellow exhibitors as well, as it gives them the opportunity to consider a truly sustainable method of planning, designing and evaluating their sustainable fabrics made from sustainable materials. 

Monterey Textiles developed ECO-FYRE, an innovative recycled aramid fabric designed for the gas and oil industry. This sustainable solution tackles the growing problem of uniform waste sent to landfills by recycling soiled garments back into fiber form. Blended with virgin aramids, the fabric delivers superior flash fire protection, color fastness, and comfort while supporting environmental responsibility. Extensive lab testing and wear trials confirmed the fabric’s performance in harsh conditions without sacrificing safety or durability. 

ECO-FYRE offers a closed-loop recycling model that reduces manufacturing waste, minimizes environmental impact, and supports companies focused on sustainability—delivering both protection for workers and meaningful progress for the planet. Moreover, the integration of this technology has also allowed for a more efficient production cycle, helping Monterey Textiles offer competitive pricing without compromising quality.

General Recycled® (GR) stated that its patented aramid recycling technology played a pivotal role in the development of Monterey Textiles' new Eco-Fyre® fabric, which was honored with the Innovation Award for Sustainability at the 2025 Network Association of Uniform Manufacturers and Distributors (NAUMD) annual conference.

"Monterey's success with Eco-Fyre® underscores the value and potential of our patented recycling process," said Ted Parker, President of General Recycled. "Partnering with Monterey and Filspec to bring this sustainable solution to market has been incredibly rewarding. This recognition highlights the growing industry demand for circular, closed-loop innovations in flame-resistant textiles."

Textiles functionalized with antiviral agents are intended to reduce the risk of transmission of pathogens, particularly in a medical environment. These antiviral properties must be carefully tested and verified in laboratory tests. The biological testing laboratory of the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) has examined antiviral activities with coronaviruses as part of an interdisciplinary research project on textiles for infection control.

Viruses can survive on plastic surfaces or textiles for several hours to days. These surfaces therefore play an important role in the transmission of viruses as pathogens. Numerous studies were done on this topic during the SARS-CoV-2 pandemic. Textiles treated with antiviral agents can help to reduce this risk of transmission. This offers added value, especially for textiles used in medical environments.

In order to confirm these antiviral properties, laboratory tests are the state of the art and help to minimize trials in a medical environment. However, working with viruses is very complex and elaborate, as viruses cannot be proliferated on culture media like bacteria. By definition, viruses are not living organisms because they are dependent on host cells to replicate. For laboratory tests, this means that both technical expertise in microbiology and in cell culture technology must be combined for successful work. For laboratory activities involving human and animal pathogens, official authorization is required. The DITF biological testing laboratory is authorized for work with pathogens in accordance with the German Infection Protection Act and the Animal Pathogens Ordinance up to risk group 2. These are microorganisms that can cause disease in humans or animals which can be well controlled generally.

Usually test laboratories carry out antiviral tests with so-called bacteriophages because they are easier to handle. These viruses use bacteria as host cells to replicate. A different, more realistic approach was taken at the DITF as part of a research project. Here, antiviral activity was determined against a coronavirus. With the MHV virus, a corona virus was chosen that is genetically very closely related to the SARS-CoV-2 virus and uses eukaryotic cells as a host. Eukaryotic cells are cells with a nucleus such as those found in humans and animals. The test procedure for determining the antiviral efficacy against coronaviruses had to be adapted to both the viruses and the host cells. In case the host cells are infected by the viruses and used as a “replication machine”, these cells show damages, so-called cytopathic effects, which are clearly visible under the light microscope. The visible damages to the host cells are used to determine the number of viruses indirectly as they are not visible under the light microscope due to their very small size.

As part of the joint research project with Heraeus Precious Metals GmbH & Co. KG to develop antimicrobial protective clothing for infection control based on AGXX® technology, a test protocol was developed at the DITF biological laboratory to determine the antiviral activity against a coronavirus. A significant inactivation of MHV coronaviruses of more than 99 percent was demonstrated in textiles finished with AGXX®. The tests on the antiviral properties of textiles against a coronavirus make an important contribution to the development and quality control of antiviral textiles.