From the Sector

Smart textiles have the potential to revolutionise healthcare. In his doctoral thesis in textile technology at the University of Borås, Emanuel Gunnarsson presents unique solutions to the bottleneck that has long inhibited the market.

With an ageing population, increasing demands are being placed on healthcare and smart textiles can offer a solution where only imagination sets limits. “The long-term goal of most smart textiles is for them to be so easy to use that the user doesn't think of them as anything more than regular garments. No special procedure should be needed to use them. If we succeed in that, we won't burden healthcare by having healthcare personnel administer vital parameter monitoring such as blood pressure and pulse, as the user can handle it themselves,” said Emanuel Gunnarsson.

In his work, he has investigated how a t-shirt for measuring heart rhythm and movement patterns, and garments for electrostimulation, can be produced in a single step. This involves the connection between the contact surfaces (electrodes), the insulated conductive paths between the electrode and the contact point, and the electrical measuring equipment required.

“This, as far as we know, has never been described before. We are completely convinced that this is the solution to a significant bottleneck when it comes to getting the smart textile market going in earnest,” said Emanuel Gunnarsson.

His work has resulted in two different simple ways to produce smart textiles. He demonstrates that sensors can be integrated using standard textile manufacturing methods. The research also includes criticism of some of the methods used to measure the functionality of smart textiles, and advice on how to do it better instead.

“The next natural step will be to see how these garments cope with one of the toughest challenges a garment faces, namely washing. Especially as these garments must be worn closest to the skin, they will need to be washed relatively often,” said Emanuel Gunnarsson.

Studies from other universities indicate that the yarns used to measure signals from the body do not withstand many washes, but after a small pilot study, Emanuel Gunnarsson is hopeful of the opposite.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced three recipients for the INDA Lifetime Service Award and Lifetime Technical Achievement Awards. David Powling, Paul Latten, and Arnold Wilkie are being recognized for their key contributions to the advancement of the nonwovens industry and INDA.

David Powling and Paul Latten will receive their awards at the World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference, June 18th beginning at 4:30 pm
Arnold Wilkie will receive his award at the RISE® Conference, October 1st at 4:30 pm.

The Award recipients are:

David Powling
David Powling has worked for Kimberly-Clark Corporation for nearly 25 years and has been a contributor to the Wipes Task Force and Technical Committees at INDA and EDANA for over 15 years. Powling served as Chairman of the INDA Wipes Task Force from 2009-2013. His work on these committees include developing the first and second edition of the Flushability Guidance Document (GD) and he was later instrumental in the roll out of the third and fourth edition GDs. Throughout this time, Powling coordinated activities with Kimberly-Clark Corporation to provide critical supporting data, as these flushability test protocols were developed.

Powling has been actively involved in collection studies where he was key in framing the work packages of those studies, collating and analyzing the data, and drafting reports. These collection studies include: Moraga, CA (advisor); Maine – Part #1 and Part #2 (hands-on); Jacksonville (hands-on); and the Northern and Southern California studies in 2023, which combined, was the largest study to date. Powling led the charge in the California study and was personally involved in identifying 1,745 samples.

Powling has been a key technical contributor to the INDA Government Relation efforts that has resulted in labelling regulations in multiple U.S. states. He has also been an active participant in efforts to develop an ISO standard for flushable products.  In this effort, he was a test method sub-team leader during the preparation of the proposed ISO standard responsible for organizing appendices of existing flushability methodologies. Additionally, Powling has been awarded, or has pending, 25+ U.S. patents, including many covering the development of dispersible wet wipes.

Paul Latten
Paul Latten has been an active member of the nonwoven and fiber industries for over 35 years. Most recently he has led innovation at Southeast Nonwovens, commercializing more than 75 new nonwoven products per year. Prior to joining Southeast Nonwovens, Latten held senior leadership positions with Basofil, Consolidated Fibers, Invista, and KoSa (and Trevira and Hoechst Celanese precursors to KoSa.)

Latten has a successful career of reinvigorating company R&D efforts by instilling a focus on customer-centric innovation. He is an inventor of record for a number of patents and pending applications. Latten has given numerous presentations on innovative nonwoven materials, at events such as INDA’s World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference, RISE® (Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics), the VISION International Conference, and the Converting and Bonding (CAB) Conference.

His recent innovations have been diverse in scope and include nonwovens for use in hydrogen fuel cells, moisture detection media, proprietary wipe designs, and natural fiber-based packaging. Aside from new fiber and nonwoven products, Latten has championed process innovation that has resulted in tangible output gains that broadened the market opportunity for his current and prior companies.

Latten’s portfolio of innovations has spanned across the nonwoven markets, often involving wetlaid and drylaid nonwovens. These include materials for moisture detection, synthetic papers, fuel cell cathodes, protective covers for treats, melamine nonwovens for surface treatment, and the development of binder fibers. His work also touched upon disposable hygiene applications entailing dry-laid web containing hollow synthetic fibers to improve absorbent core fluid uptake.

Latten has been a board member of INDA for multiple terms and served as Chairman in 2008-2010. Additionally, he has contributed to many INDA conference planning committees, helping drive the success of these events.

Arnold Wilkie
Arnold Wilkie has a distinguished career in advancing yarn, fiber, and nonwoven technologies since 1970. Since 1988, he has been President and Owner of Hills, Inc. where he has sustained their innovative culture. Wilkie has over 40 patents and applications covering yarns, bicomponent fibers, ultra-fine fibers, nanofibers, dissolvable filaments, meltblown nonwovens, and polymer processing innovations. He established Hills as a leading innovator in bicomponent fiber nonwovens and in the equipment to produce these materials. During Wilkie’s time leading Hills, their pilot capabilities have become well-known and highly regarded for enabling material innovations.

Many of his patents pertain to the development of equipment solutions that enable the production of complex bi- and multi-component fiber structures. These solutions include the method of forming a continuous filament spun-laid web, the method and apparatus for producing polymer fibers and fabrics including multiple polymer components, the method and apparatus for controlling airflow in a fiber extrusion system, and controlling the dissolution of dissolvable polymer components in plural component fibers.

Arnold Wilkie, President, Hills, Inc., earned his bachelor’s degree in Mechanical Engineering from the University of Tennessee and an MBA from the University of West Florida. He is a licensed Professional Engineer in Florida, and has been engaged in the synthetic fibers industry since 1970. The first 17 years were with the Monsanto Company, where he held positions in Fiber Process Engineering, Fiber Product R&D, and Product Management. Since 1988, he has been a majority Owner and President of Hills, Inc., a 52-year-old company located in West Melbourne, Florida, specializing in the development, manufacture, and supply of advanced custom fiber extrusion equipment. Wilkie has been involved with and supported The Nonwovens Institute, since its founding in 1991 as the Nonwovens Cooperative Research Center (NCRC), with Hills joining as a Member in 2001

Solvay awarded a scholarship to facilitate an educational alliance between the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) and Fermi High School in Cecina. The initiative unfolded during an event held at Solvay's Rosignano site in Italy, providing a platform for students and faculty. Through this partnership, 200 Fermi High School students participated in STEM* and digital lessons from MIT's Global Teaching Labs project, emphasizing the teaching of scientific disciplines by the American university.

Beyond the scholarship award ceremony, students received a tour of Solvay's factory in Rosignano. The tour highlighted the company's dedication to safety, sustainability, and bridging the gap between academia and industry challenges. The experience illustrated the practical application of academic studies in an industrial context, showcasing Solvay's advanced control procedures, safety protocols, technological innovations, digital transformation efforts, and sustainability measures.

Discussions during the event included key sustainability topics such as water conservation, energy efficiency, waste management, and Solvay's commitment to promoting a balanced work-life culture and diversity within the workplace.

This collaboration aligns with Solvay's global Corporate Citizenship program. Through this program, Solvay supports individuals and communities, channeling efforts to tackle worldwide societal challenges through strategic investments in education, sustainability, and local community initiatives.

*STEM stands for science, technology, engineering and mathematics

A collaboration between Deakin University researchers and Australia’s largest commercial linen supplier Simba Global is tackling a critical global issue, the spread of harmful microplastics through our laundry.

Clothing and textiles are estimated to generate up to 35 per cent of the microplastics found in the world’s oceans, making them one of the biggest contributors. But there is still a lot to be learnt about the characteristics of these microplastics and exactly how and why they are generated.

Researchers at the ARC Research Hub for Future Fibres in Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials (IFM) have teamed up with Simba Global, a global textile manufacturing and supply company, to better understand the extent and type of microplastics shed when their products are laundered. Simba Global wants to lead the charge to reduce the environmental impact of textiles.

Lead scientist IFM Associate Professor Maryam Naebe said working with an industry partner on the scale of Simba Global meant the research could have a huge real-world impact.

Simba Global is the major linen supplier to Australia’s hospitals, hotels and mining camps, resulting in 950,000 tonnes of textile products – including bedsheets, bath towels, scrubs and much more – going through the commercial laundering process each year. It also supplies international markets in New Zealand, Singapore and the US.

“As part of our research, we will investigate potential solutions including the pre-treatment of textiles to reduce the shedding of microplastics, or even increasing the size of the plastics that break down so they can be better captured and removed by filtration during the laundering process,” Associate Professor Naebe said.

“Microplastics are now ubiquitous in the environment, they’re in the air we breathe, the food we eat and the earth we walk on. The magnitude of the problem is bigger than previously thought.

“Of serious concern is the mounting evidence that microplastics are having a negative impact on human and animal health. There are not just physical, but chemical and biological impacts.”

Associate Professor Naebe’s team have taken the first steps in the project, analysing wastewater samples from commercial laundries with high-powered electron microscopes in their Geelong laboratory, part of the largest fibres and textiles research facility in Australia.

The team recently presented a new scientific paper at the Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX) Conference 2023, which started the important process of formally categorising these types of microplastics, as well as developing standard terminology and testing methods.

“Because our understanding of microplastics is still in its infancy, we needed to start right at the beginning,” Associate Professor Naebe said.

“We need to have a standard definition of what is a microplastic. Up to this point that has been lacking, which makes it difficult to compare and incorporate other studies in this area.

“We are now developing a systematic method for sampling and identifying microplastics in laundry wastewater. It has been tricky to measure the different sizes, but this is important information to have. For example, there are studies that suggest some sizes of microplastics are causing more issues in certain animals.

“The next step will be establishing an essential method to prevent the release of microplastics from textile laundering. This may involve a coating on the surface of the textile or better ways to collect the waste during the washing process.”

Simba Global Executive Chair Hiten Somaia said the company had a strong focus on sustainability, driven by the business’ purpose statement.

“We are proud to partner with Deakin University in what is the first significant research into textile microplastic pollution in Australia. What we are most excited about is sharing the results of this research with all other textile markets in Australia – including clothing – and putting an end to microplastic pollution from textiles.”

Epson befragte für sein diesjähriges Klimabarometer rund 30.000 Menschen aus 39 Ländern. Ein besonderes Augenmerk legt die Studie in 2023 auf die „Generation COP“ – die Generation, die seit der ersten Klimakonferenz im Jahr 1995 geboren wurde und die mit den zunehmenden Folgen des Klimawandels groß geworden ist.
 
Die aktuelle Studie zeigt: Der Klimawandel wird von den Befragten über alle Generationen und Ländergrenzen hinweg als das zentrale globale Problem genannt. Erwartet wird von den Umfrageteilnehmer:innen jedoch, dass Technologie ein entscheidender Faktor für dessen Lösung sein wird. In Deutschland sehen über die Hälfte (55 Prozent) der Befragten den Klimawandel als das größte Problem an, mit denen die Welt heute konfrontiert ist – das entspricht auch dem weltweiten Durchschnittswert. Der Klimawandel positioniert sich damit noch vor der Inflation (51 Prozent) und der Armut (41 Prozent). Die Umfrage fand im Juli 2023 statt, in Deutschland wurden über 1.000 Personen befragt.
 
Die „Generation COP“ – Optimismus bei denjenigen, die mit den Folgen des Klimawandels am längsten leben müssen
Auch wenn es regionale Unterschiede gibt: Das Klimabarometer macht deutlich, dass die „Gen COP“ weltweit gesehen diejenige Generation ist, die insgesamt mit dem größten Optimismus in die Zukunft blickt. Fast die Hälfte der Befragten dieser Gruppe (49 Prozent) geht international davon aus, dass die Klimaprobleme noch zu ihren Lebzeiten gelöst werden. Dem gegenüber blicken die Altersgruppen der 45- bis 54-Jährigen (42 Prozent) sowie Personen ab 55 Jahren mit 32 Prozent am wenigsten optimistisch auf die kommende Zeit.
 
Bei den deutschen Befragten herrscht weniger Optimismus: nur knapp ein Drittel (32 Prozent) der unter 30-Jährigen Befragten schaut positiv in die Zukunft und geht davon aus, dass die Klimaprobleme noch zu deren Lebzeiten gelöst werden. Bei den über 45- und über 54-Jährigen sind es sogar nur gut ein Viertel (26 Prozent).
 
In der Umfrage wurde ebenfalls deutlich, dass es zwischen den Generationen hinsichtlich der Maßnahmen, die zum Schutz des Klimas ergriffen werden müssen, unterschiedliche Meinungen gibt. Auch die selbst ergriffenen Maßnahmen unterscheiden sich in den Altersgruppen. Gemessen am weltweiten Durchschnitt zeigt die Gen COP in neun der 14 Kategorien eine geringere Aktivität, um den Klimawandel zu beeinflussen. In 12 von 14 Kategorien sind sie ebenfalls weniger aktiv als ihre Mütter und Väter.
 
Aktivität und Inaktivität bei persönlichen Maßnahmen zum Klimaschutz
Auf globaler Ebene berichten gut ein Drittel aller Befragten (38 Prozent), dass sie Auslandsreisen aus geschäftlichem oder privatem Anlass bereits reduziert haben und weitere 30 Prozent geben an, die Reduktion der Auslandsreisen zu beabsichtigen. Andererseits sagt jedoch fast jeder sechste „Das werde ich niemals tun“ (17 Prozent). Bei den deutschen Befragten liegt der Anteil derjenigen, die das Reisen bereits eingeschränkt haben, bei 43 Prozent und der Anteil derjenigen, die keine Einschränkungen bei ihren Reisen planen, bei 23 Prozent.
 
Die „Inaktiven“ lassen sich in allen abgefragten Bereichen feststellen, sind aber in der deutlichen Minderheit. Zu den Punkten zählen beispielsweise „Geringerer Konsum tierischer Produkte“ (18 Prozent), „Nicht nachhaltige Marken boykottieren“ (15 Prozent) und „Freunde und Familie dazu anspornen, sich besser über die Klimakrise zu informieren“ (10 Prozent).
Die Gründe für diese Inaktivität sind vermutlich vielfältig. Sie umfassen unter anderem geografische, kulturelle und wirtschaftliche Faktoren und wohl auch das Vertrauen in die Fähigkeit der Menschheit, das Problem zu lösen, ohne dass individuelle Maßnahmen ergriffen werden müssen.
 
Technologie als Möglichmacher („Enabler“)
Technologie ist für die Befragten eines der wichtigsten Mittel im Kampf gegen die Auswirkungen des Klimawandels. Bei der Frage, welche wichtigste Maßnahme Unternehmen zur Lösung des Klimaproblems beitragen könnten, gab es fünf Bereiche, die eindeutig am häufigsten angegeben wurden. 48 Prozent nennen dabei die Investition in Umwelttechnologien. Fast genauso oft werden Verbesserungen im Recycling und bei der Wiederverwendung von Produkten (45 Prozent) genannt, gefolgt von geringerem Ressourcenverbrauch (28 Prozent), dem Anspornen von Mitarbeiter:innen zur Beteiligung an Maßnahmen für den Umweltschutz (21 Prozent) sowie die Kompensation schädlicher Auswirkungen von CO₂ und Kunststoff (21 Prozent).

ISKO provided their latest innovation in material science to British designers, Priya Ahluwalia, Masha Popova, Chet Lo and Aaron Esh, for the London Fashion Week SS24 season.

Alongside supplying their latest denim fabrics, ISKO opened its doors to its London-based product development centre, Creative Room London, for finishing and washing of their final designs as well providing expertise and knowledge in denim design and construction.

Priya Ahluwalia
For Ahluwalia’s Spring Summer 24 collection, entitled Acknowledgements, Creative Director and founder Priya Ahluwalia’s research led her on a journey of creative rediscovery.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric, which is made entirely from recycled and regenerated fibres, was used to create the flower motif denim showcase within 3 looks across jeans and jackets. This development contains no virgin cotton and uses a minimum of 60% recycled materials and the remainder is regenerated cellulose fibres while still giving a look and feel identical to traditional denim and speaks to Ahluwalia’s ongoing commitment to sustainable design and business practices.

Chet Lo
This season, Chet Lo took an active stand in reclaiming the power lost during his youth, healing the childhood wounds inflicted by a society that sidelined differences instead of celebrating them.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric and specialist lasering techniques from ISKO’s Creative Room was used across three looks featuring signature Chet Lo erotic laser prints across denim bottoms.

Aaron Esh
The SS24 season marked the brand’s debut at London Fashion Week, a homecoming of sorts for Esh, who was born and raised in the heart of the British capital, studied at Central Saint Martins and became a finalist at the LVMH Prize earlier this year. The early impulses of Aaron Esh remain steadfast: clothes that combine establishment rigour with the rebellious spirit of youth culture, devotedly crafted for a generation who feels somewhere in-between.
Aaron created bootleg denim ripped jeans made entirely from ISKO Denim using R-TWO50 fabric, which comprises a minimum of 50% pre and post-consumer recycled content. The designer noted the addition of denim accompanied by leathers add a new level of depth to their latest collection.

Masha Popova
Masha Popova’s sophomore catwalk outing, MONSTER was a “seasonless” offering that combines Autumn Winter 2023 and Spring Summer 2024.
Masha continued her obsession with denim manipulation, using various finishings including over-dyeing, flocking, patchwork, scratching and fraying in a variety of colours from vibrant green to silver across jeans, tops and jackets, all developed with the help of ISKO’s Creative Room, London.

• Green Fashion community increasingly ‘thinking out of the box’

Networking and agility are in greater demand than ever – that was the conclusion at the close of the 52nd INNATEX which took place from 29 to 31 July 2023. 244 Green Fashion labels presented their collections to 1500 visitors at the international trade fair for sustainable textiles. Audience figures thus matched the level at the previous summer edition of the fair in 2022. With 244 brands, INNATEX again delivered remarkable variety, with many new exhibitors and fresh looks.

“We're pleased that our figures are remaining constant,” says Jens Frey, Managing Director of trade fair organiser MUVEO GmbH. “Undeniably, sustainable brands and the retail trade are currently living through a long period of challenges. But from our point of view, the Green Fashion sector is responding with extraordinary willpower and perseverance. Why? Out of a sense of conviction and because sustainability is the future.”

Future-related topics were also the subject of panel talks and personal discussions at various points. A key aspect was the urgent need for cooperation agreements and networks to open up new sales channels and fields of activity. Experts at the fair also recommended an honest review of business strategies that may have outlived their usefulness. As Dr Eva Stüber of Cologne’s Institute for Retail Studies (IFH Köln) points out, “The pandemic, the war of aggression, inflation, digitalisation – there are many factors prompting a change in lifestyles and demands. What is required now is creativity. Brands and retailers can exploit new potential by, for example, checking their ranges for market relevance, being sharper in their targeting, making shopping a social event, joining up with people from entirely different areas and not immediately rejecting apparently mad ideas.”

From August 20^th to 21^st, 2023, the INNATEX Showroom will take place in Bern.

The 53^rd INNATEX fair will be held from January 20^th to January 22^nd, 2024.

Leaders assembled at the renowned forum for sustainability in fashion to mobilise action and usher in a transformative phase for the industry.

Hosted in the Copenhagen Concert Hall, on 27-28 June, Global Fashion Summit convened over 1000 revered representatives from brands, retailers, NGOs, policy, manufacturers, and innovators to transform ambition into action. The Summit was presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), the non-profit organisation that is accelerating the transition to a net positive fashion industry, under the patronage of HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark.

This year’s theme ‘Ambition to Action’, galvanised participants to transform ambitions into concrete actions that can drive the industry towards more sustainable practices, both socially and environmentally. Under this premise, the event presented content experiences focused on tangible and evidence-based impact, with over half of the programme dedicated to educational and action-oriented business case studies.

This edition included more speakers and content than ever before, with the dynamic and action-orientated sessions spanning across four different stages. The Summit also facilitated more than 10 strategic roundtable meetings that brought together executives and policy makers for productive dialogues on how to address pressing sustainability issues and act accordingly. The content integrated the five priorities of the Fashion CEO Agenda, alongside critical challenges and tangible opportunities relating to some of the key forces that are shaping the fashion industry today: data, policy and storytelling.

Attendees heard from 137 speakers including HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark; Antoine Arnault, Image & Environment, LVMH Group; Jonathan Anderson, Creative Director & Founder, JW Anderson and Creative Director, Loewe; Virginijus Sinkevičius,  Commissioner for the Environment, Oceans and Fisheries, European Commission; Henriette Hallberg Thygesen, Chief Delivery Officer, Maersk; Aude Vergne, Chief Sustainability Officer, Chloé; Nicolaj Reffstrup, Founder, GANNI; Fanny Moizant, Co-Founder & President, Vestiaire Collective; Noel Kinder, Chief Sustainability Officer, Nike; Óscar García Maceiras, CEO, Inditex; Dr. Lewis Akenji, Managing Director, Hot or Cool Institute; Rachel Arthur, Advocacy Lead, Sustainable Fashion, United Nations Environment Programme; and many more.

Innovation Forum connected fashion companies with sustainable solution providers
This year’s Summit also presented an Innovation Forum, enabling small and large companies to meet with 26 sustainable solution providers – equipping them with the concrete tools to quickly turn words into meaningful actions. More than 350 facilitated business meetings between fashion companies and sustainable solution providers took place during the Summit.

Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition will take place on 27 September 2023, which will mark the second time the Summit has been hosted outside of Copenhagen in its 14-year history.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) and Carbios, a biotech company developing and industrializing biological solutions to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, announce the signing of a non-binding Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) to form a Joint Venture for the construction of the world’s first PET biorecycling plant in France.  

Based on and subject to the comprehensive terms set out in the MOU, Indorama Ventures plans to mobilize about €110 million for the Joint Venture in equity and non-convertible loan financing , pending final engineering documentation and final economic feasibility studies. Both parties have acknowledged their mutual support for the implementation of the project and their intent to finalize contract documentation before end 2023.

Subject to the successful performance of this first plant in France, Indorama Ventures confirms its intention to potentially expand the technology to other PET sites for future developments.

Under the agreement signed June 1, Carbios, which filed for plant permitting in December 2022, should acquire 13ha land from Indorama Ventures’ existing PET plant at Longlaville and expects to be granted permits by Q3 2023, allowing start of construction by end of 2023 and targeted commissioning in 2025.  The land surface offers the possibility to double capacity. Pursuant to this MOU, Indorama Ventures shall ensure 100% of output repolymerization and both partners shall collaborate to secure feedstock supply.

The total capital investment for the new plant is re-estimated to be around €230 million, taking into account recent impact from inflation. Project costs shall be financed by the sums mobilized by Indorama Ventures, the French State and Grand-Est Region subsidies available for the project , and by equity capitalization of the Joint Venture by Carbios. Part of Carbios’ equity injection into the Joint Venture shall be financed by a portion of Carbios’ current cash position (i.e. €86 million as of 30 April 2023). Carbios is actively examining the best options to finance its remaining equity injection into the Joint Venture and will choose the most appropriate solution and timeline based on market conditions.

The project is part of Indorama Ventures’ Vision 2030 ambition to build on its leadership as a global sustainable chemical company. The company’s ESG commitments include spending $1.5 billion to increase its recycling capacity to 50 billion PET bottles per year by 2025 and 100 billion bottles per year by 2030. To meet these goals, Indorama Ventures, the world’s largest producer of recycled PET resin used in beverage bottles, is investing in new recycling technologies, including advanced recycling, in addition to expanding its global footprint of mechanical recycling sites, including two in France.

Carbios has developed a disruptive enzymatic depolymerization technology that enables efficient and solvent-free recycling of PET plastic and textile waste into virgin-like products with an aim to achieve true circularity. Carbios has ambitious plans to become a leading technology provider in advanced recycling of PET by 2035. After successful ongoing operations in its demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand in France, Carbios has been collaborating with Indorama Ventures for over a year to assess the commercial and technical feasibility of the technology. The world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant at Longlaville will have a capacity to process about 50,000 tons of post-consumer PET waste per year, including waste that is not recyclable mechanically, equivalent to 2 billion PET colored bottles or 2.5 billion PET trays.

• TreeToTextile sustainable textile fibre demo plant in Sweden

TreeToTextile, owned by H&M Group, Inter IKEA Group, Stora Enso, and LSCS Invest, invested €35 million in constructing a textile fiber process technology demonstration plant in Sweden. AFRY supported TreeToTextile throughout the project in the development and implementation phases from 2016-2022. The demonstration plant is now in the start-up phase.

TreeToTextile is offering a new technology to produce bio-based textile fibers with a low environmental footprint and aims to make sustainable textile fibers available to all. The new fiber is a regenerated cellulosic fiber, produced from renewable and sustainably sourced raw materials from forests. TreeToTextile has invested €35 million in developing and constructing a new demonstration plant in Nymölla, Sweden. This investment is a crucial step prior to the scale-up and commercialization of this technology.

AFRY has been the leading consultant and engineering partner of TreeToTextile from its early stages of project development in 2016, continuing onto demo plant implementation engineering from 2020-2022 In the project development phase, AFRY’s assignment included several pre-feasibility and feasibility studies, process design, up-scaling evaluations, and supplier pilot runs planning. In the demo plant implementation phase, AFRY was responsible for the engineering, project management and site services, also providing many additional services like permit and procurement support as well as machine and IT solutions.

“AFRY and TreeToTextile have a long-lasting, mutually developing relationship that we hope to continue. Together with AFRY, we have overcome the challenges through close collaboration, flexibility, broad competence and most important of all, mutual commitment”, says Olli Ylä-Jarkko, CTO at TreeToTextile.

The commissioning of the demonstration plant started in the summer of 2022, and the project was handed over to TreeToTextile for start-up and further optimization of the process.

“I’m proud of the deep and long-lasting cooperation with TreeToTextile. This project shows AFRY’s ability and wide competence to meet various demands of customer investment projects – from early phase development to implementation. AFRY’s long experience with bio-based materials, combined with our extensive process industry and project execution experience, makes us a unique partner for industrial clients in accelerating their bio-based fibers to scalable commercial production”, says Lisa Vedin, Head of Process Industries Sweden at AFRY.