From the Sector

Garmon Chemicals confirms itself as a pioneer in chemistry specifically applied to garment treatment, at the forefront in terms of product research and active promotion on the sustainable issue. The Dutch show is the ideal stage to present a preview of the latest innovation born out of Garmon’s volcanic R&D department. It is Avol Lime, the revolutionary and ecologicallyadvanced neutralizing agent. Used in combination with Avol Oxy White (the bleaching agent that represents the safe alternative to potassium permanganate), it allows to obtain a fully safe and sustainable bleaching process.

white&green: solutions for eco-bleaching
white&green is the ultimate solution to obtain a safe and sustainable jeans discoloration process. The new line provides two avant-garde solutions: two highly performant products, both representing a safe and conscious alternative.
Two souls presenting unique characteristics:

The “white” soul

• the hightest level of whiteness
• superior bright shades
• stylish vintage looks
• extraordinary contrasts

The “green” soul

• safe alternative to dangerous products
• significant energy savings
• classified in ZDHC gateway (from level 1)
• greenofchange® approved

• China Interdye, booth A100, from 10 to 12 April 2019, Shanghai World Expo & Convection Center, Shanghai, China

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, will be at China Interdye to present its system solutions for optimized productivity and/or value creation in textile coloring and manufacturing.

Archroma offers a wide portfolio of dyes and chemicals aiming to increase sustainability and innovation along the entire value chain, from fiber to finish.
At China Interdye, visitors will be able to experience how Archroma can help them create value in their textile applications and markets.

The systems and innovations presented have been developed and selected for their compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable.

The EU-funded Project, in which Devan Chemicals is a key partner, held a kick off meeting end of February 2019 at the EU Commission in Brussels, Belgium. The project consortium, led by Belgian R&D centre CENTEXBEL, consists of 17 European partners from across the value chain including design, manufacturing, NGOs, and research and innovation.

The focus of the consortium is on coated and painted textiles and plastic materials which are currently not recyclable. Ambitious plastic recycling targets of 50% have been set by the European Plastics Industry, and to meet these targets, smart solutions to enable the circular use of textile and plastic parts with multi-layer coatings must be considered.

DECOAT has therefore been established to investigate triggerable smart polymer material systems and appropriate recycling processes. The solutions will be based on smart additives (like microcapsules or microwave triggered additives) that will enable the efficient of coatings and other finishes, activated by a specific trigger (heat, humidity, microwave, chemical) to permit recycling.        

Devan’s specific role is in the development of microcapsules that will release its active core on application of a certain trigger (e.g. heat) at the end of life of the article. This active core material may be something that, for example, will promote the detachment of different coating layers (by separating them), opening the possibility for recyclability/re-use of the base materials. Different active core ingredients will be evaluated, and Devan will develop processes for each type of core ingredient and for each type of coating layer/matrix.

The bold aim of the four-year project is to decrease landfill by 75% of coated articles that are presently difficult to recycle, such as clothing, electronic goods and automotive components. A reduction in the carbon footprint by at least 30% for the considered products is aimed for. By enabling the recycling of such materials, DECOAT is expected to generate in the medium term a new market valued at over 150 million Euros in Europe.

Reinach, Switzerland - Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced that the production of its new aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo has been accelerated due to the high demand encountered on the market.

Aniline-free Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liquid was first announced in May 2018 at the Planet Textile Conference held in Canada, and allows a cleaner way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue color that consumers associated with denim and jeans.

Archroma makes the Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 dye in the most sustainable way as currently possible. The new dye is produced in Archroma’s facility in Pakistan, a plant that made the headlines in 2012 for being what Archroma believed to be the industry’s first zero liquid discharge plant.

“True to our commitment towards continuous innovation, Archroma challenges the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable. Denisol® Pure Indigo is result of our efforts to challenge accepted technologies in order to find a better way to advance sustainability, and it is therefore extremely exciting to see that brands, retailers and manufacturers are eager to offer a more sustainable denim to consumers. We owe the successful launch of Denisol® Pure Indigo to the shared vision of the textile value chain to preserve our planet and its people, after all – it’s our nature”, comments Alexander Wessels, CEO of Archroma.

* Below levels of detection
Denisol® is a trademark of Archroma registered in many countries.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, and Carlin, the trend office who pioneered trend forecasting back in 1947, are heading together to Premiere Vision Paris, where they share a booth fully dedicated to color creativity, inspiration and performance.
Carlin is well known in France and abroad for its "trend-oriented" expertise from brand strategy and collection design, to color creation and trend forecasting. Carlin serves famous brands in the fashion, cosmetic or sportswear industry, such as GAP, Empreinte, Byredo, Birchbox, or Samsung.

Carlin x Archroma collaboration
Archroma launched the 'Color Atlas by Archroma®' in 2016, a unique tool dedicated to providing fashion designers and stylists with off-the-shelf color inspiration that can be implemented in production with just a few clicks.
The Color Atlas contains 4,320 colors on cotton poplin, and online, almost double compared to similar tools available to textile and fashion specialists. More brands are turning to the Color Atlas and Archroma for color creation and implementation, such as American Eagle Outfitters, Athleta, Express, and Lands’ End.
Archroma and Carlin started their collaboration in July 2018. Carlin is using the color references of the Color Atlas during its color workshops throughout France, as well as in its 20 yearly publications.
At Premiere Vision, Archroma and Carlin will be together in one exhibition space, allowing visitors to enjoy a full consultation from color trends to color inspiration to color implementation from the first mood board all the way into production.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced that Thailand-based Absolute Denim will be the first denim manufacturer to switch 100% of its production to aniline-free* indigo dyeing.

Absolute Denim is a Thailand-based denim manufacturer producing high quality denim with a focus on eco-friendlier materials and processes. The company can produce up to 2 million meters of denim per month (that's approximately 1.5 million pairs of jeans!), for customers that include some of the biggest brands and retailers in the world.

Archroma’s Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liquid dye was first launched in May 2018 as a non-toxic way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans.

During production, some of the aniline stays locked into the indigo pigment and is difficult to wash off the fabric. The remainder of the aniline impurity, approximately 300 metric tons annually, is discharged during dyeing. This can be an issue as aniline is toxic to aquatic life. In addition, exposure levels to factory workers can be high. As a result of its toxicity (more hazardous than alkylphenols) it is now starting to feature on the restricted substance lists (RSL) of some major clothing brands and retailers.

The new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liq was therefore developed as an aniline-free* indigo solution for designers, manufacturers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration.

Archroma tested Denisol® Pure Indigo at Absolute Denim mill in Thailand. Archroma wanted to be sure that the new indigo dye would perform exactly the same as conventional indigo.

James Carnahan, Head of Sustainability at Archroma, comments: “At Archroma we continuously challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable - but we cannot do it alone. Without forward-thinking manufacturers such as Absolute Denim to consciously adopt these eco-advanced innovations in their daily production, like our aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo, we will not be able to move this industry forward on our resource-constrained world we live in. As consumers are increasingly aware of, and concerned about, climate change and ecological threats, this is not only the right thing to do - it is also good for business.”

“Deep down inside most of us want the world to be a better place for our loved ones and for future generations,” insists Vichai Phromvanich, Board Member, Absolute Denim, “starting with how we live, what we eat, what we wear, still trying to be cool, fashionable, still trying to be environmentally conscious. Archroma’s aniline free indigo project is therefore something we as a new generation manufacturer have supported from the beginning, by opening our doors for tests in the project phase, and now by sending out our articles to many of our customers. For us, after all, a nice pair of jeans looks even nicer without aniline!”

* Below limits of detection

• Performance Days - November 28 and 29, 2018 – Hall C1 Booth B18
• Two of TINTEX’s fabrics have made it into the PERFORMANCE FORUM Jury’s Pick Category that represents fabrics which are a valuable contribution to this season Performance Days Focus Topic “WATER – OUR RESPONSIBILITY”

See, touch and experience the latest collection from TINTEX as they reveal a wonderful range of innovative fabrics that redefine fashion, inspire creativity, spark emotion and optimize responsible solutions. TINTEX, being an ingenious leader in textile and research innovation for over twenty years, transforms a new generation of cotton and other natural based materials. Established in the Porto region as authorities in superior dyeing and finishing techniques making TINTEX Textiles the perfect choice for fashion.

All the recent awards bestowed, demonstrate TINTEX continue research and commitment. They have been awarded for the Best product of the Base Layer Category by ISPO jury, moreover they have just received the prestigious German Design Awards 2019 and last but not least, they are selected as finalists for the Future Textile Awards in the category Best Innovation for Sustainable Textiles.
TINTEX continues to lead the way, as they proudly take part in the Make Fashion Circular initiative, by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation and activate change industry wide. This initiative aims to collaborate and innovate towards a new textile economy based on the principles of a Circular Economy.

In addition, since this November, TINTEX is a bluesign® system partner, thus means that they are responsibly acting parties of the textile value chain committed to applying the bluesign® system, continuously improving their environmental performance and always been focused on a sustainable future.

A milestone for TINTEX and fashion, as they launch Naturally Clean - an exceptional smart finishing process that is uniquely responsible. Naturally Clean enhances the natural beauty of cotton, takes a cost effective modern approach to eliminate aggressive treatments and optimizes clean surfaces, vivid colors, providing an exquisitely smooth handfeel. Naturally Clean achieves this by using Novozymes technology, a company that is indeed the world leader in biological solutions. Second, using textile chemicals with the lowest possible environmental impact, without compromising performance, from Beyond Surface Technologies AG. Naturally Clean maintains the original characteristics for an extended period of time. All materials are Oeko-Tex and soon bluesign® certified, thus eliminating harmful substances.
TINTEX’ Autumn/Winter 2019/2020 collection includes vibrant tones, refreshing turquoise and electric green, light and warm copper with chocolate browns that connect the natural and spiritual in an extra-sensorial universe. Infused with a stunning palette of nostalgic and multicultural colors - warm yellow with darkened reds, dynamic purple with urban greys - that express globalization and human connection.
Key smart ingredients of the season are:

• A New Generation of Cotton: GOTS certified organic cotton, Supima® cotton, and ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi the smart cotton that saves up to 77.9% water consumption and introduces the concept of a circular economy.
• SeaCell™ and Smartcel™: produced using the Lyocell process in a closed loop with no chemicals released as waste. The patented process of SeaCell™ allows that the positive properties of the seaweed are permanently preserved within the fiber, even after multiple washing cycles. Smartcel™ includes the essential trace element zinc providing anti-inflammatory capabilities.
• REFIBRA™ by Lenzing technology involves upcycling a substantial proportion of cotton scraps e.g. from garment production, in addition to wood pulp, where the raw material is transformed to produce new TENCEL™ Lyocell fiber to make fabrics and garments.
• Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei: A new generation GRS Certified material, made from cotton linters, with a biodegradability certification by Innovhub. A matchless, high tech natural material, with a special handfeel and aesthetics.
• ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei
  - ROICA™ EF has a percentage of pre-consumer recycled content that is more than 50%, and thanks to this it has been GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.
  - ROICA™ V550 a premium stretch innovative yarn boasting the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold Level for Material Health product and ingredients as it was evaluated throughout the supply chain for lower impacts on human and environmental health. Striving toward eliminating all toxic and unidentified chemicals for a safe continuous cycle. Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificate - ROICA™ proudly breaks down without releasing harmful substances.

Of special interest this season, the two TINTEX’s fabrics that made it into the PERFORMANCE FORUM Jury’s Pick Category for their contribution to this season Topic “WATER – OUR RESPONSIBILITY”.

A smart rib developed to reduce the water usage as most as possible, from cultivation of raw materials until fabric finishing. A blend of TENCEL™ Modal, cellulosic & biodegradable material treated with no hazardous chemicals, pesticides nor fertilizers, and European hemp, a fast-growing plant that requires very little water and no herbicides, pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or GMO seeds. Both fibres are biodegradable.

The second selected article is a 100% Merino Wool jersey made unique thanks to Colorau® by TINTEX, a patented natural dyeing process technique that uses vegetable herbs and extracts. A great amount of water was saved by avoiding subsequent washing steps. Also, lower water pollution is achieved by avoiding synthetic dyestuffs.

Emphasis on Process, Third-party Validation and Outcome-based Testing
Florida Linen Services has earned the Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification for its Rockledge plant, reflecting their commitment to best management practices (BMPs) in laundering as verified by on-site inspection and their capability to produce hygienically clean textiles as quantified by ongoing microbial testing.

The Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification confirms the organization’s continuing dedication to infection prevention, compliance with recognized industry standards and processing healthcare textiles using BMPs as described in its quality assurance documentation, a focal point for Hygienically Clean inspectors’ evaluation. The independent, third-party inspection must also confirm essential evidence that:

• Employees are properly trained and protected
• Managers understand regulatory requirements
• OSHA-compliant
• Physical plant operates effectively

To achieve certification initially, laundries pass three rounds of outcome-based microbial testing, indicating that their processes are producing Hygienically Clean Healthcare textiles and diminished presence of yeast, mold and harmful bacteria. They also must pass a facility inspection. To maintain their certification, they must pass quarterly testing to ensure that as laundry conditions change, such as water quality, textile fabric composition and wash chemistry, laundered product quality is consistently maintained. Re-inspection occurs every two to three years.

This process eliminates subjectivity by focusing on outcomes and results that verify textiles cleaned in these facilities meet appropriate hygienically clean standards and BMPs for hospitals, surgery centers, medical offices, nursing homes and other medical facilities.

Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification acknowledges laundries’ effectiveness in protecting healthcare operations by verifying quality control procedures in linen, uniform and facility services operations related to the handling of textiles containing blood and other potentially infectious materials.

Certified laundries use processes, chemicals and BMPs acknowledged by the federal Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), Centers for Medicare and Medicaid Services, Association for the Advancement of Medical Instrumentation, American National Standards Institute and others. Introduced in 2012, Hygienically Clean Healthcare brought to North America the international cleanliness standards for healthcare linens and garments used worldwide by the Certification Association for Professional Textile Services and the European Committee for Standardization.

Objective experts in epidemiology, infection control, nursing and other healthcare professions work with Hygienically Clean launderers to ensure the certification continues to enforce the highest standards for producing clean healthcare textiles.

The Rockledge plant joins two other Florida Linen locations (Pompano Beach and Jensen Beach) that earned Hygienically Clean Healthcare Certifications in 2017. Florida Linen has provided healthcare laundry and linen services throughout Florida since 2003. “Congratulations to Florida Linen Services on their certification,” said Joseph Ricci, TRSA president and CEO. “This achievement proves their commitment to infection prevention and that their laundry takes every step possible to prevent human illness.”

Universal Linen Service of Louisville, KY, has earned the Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification, reflecting their commitment to best management practices (BMPs) in laundering as verified by on-site inspection and their capability to produce hygienically clean textiles as quantified by ongoing microbial testing. Universal Linen Service is an independently-owned and operated linen service provider that serves all markets.

The Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification confirms the organization’s continuing dedication to infection prevention, compliance with recognized industry standards and processing healthcare textiles using BMPs as described in its quality assurance documentation, a focal point for Hygienically Clean inspectors’ evaluation. The independent, third-party inspection must also confirm essential evidence that:

• Employees are properly trained and protected
• Managers understand regulatory requirements
• OSHA-compliant
• Physical plant operates effectively

To achieve certification initially, laundries pass three rounds of outcome-based microbial testing, indicating that their processes are producing Hygienically Clean Healthcare textiles and diminished presence of yeast, mold and harmful bacteria. They also must pass a facility inspection. To maintain their certification, they must pass quarterly testing to ensure that as laundry conditions change, such as water quality, textile fabric composition and wash chemistry, laundered product quality is consistently maintained. Re-inspection occurs every two to three years.

This process eliminates subjectivity by focusing on outcomes and results that verify textiles cleaned in these facilities meet appropriate hygienically clean standards and BMPs for hospitals, surgery centers, medical offices, nursing homes and other medical facilities.

Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification acknowledges laundries’ effectiveness in protecting healthcare operations by verifying quality control procedures in linen, uniform and facility services operations related to the handling of textiles containing blood and other potentially infectious materials.

Certified laundries use processes, chemicals and BMPs acknowledged by the federal Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), Centers for Medicare and Medicaid Services, Association for the Advancement of Medical Instrumentation, American National Standards Institute and others. Introduced in 2012, Hygienically Clean Healthcare brought to North America the international cleanliness standards for healthcare linens and garments used worldwide by the Certification Association for Professional Textile Services and the European Committee for Standardization.

Objective experts in epidemiology, infection control, nursing and other healthcare professions work with Hygienically Clean launderers to ensure the certification continues to enforce the highest standards for producing clean healthcare textiles.

“Congratulations to Universal Linen Service on their certification,” said Joseph Ricci, TRSA president and CEO. “This achievement proves their commitment to infection prevention and that their laundry takes every step possible to prevent human illness.”

Devan Chemicals, Innovator für Textilveredelung, präsentiert weitere Ergebnisse zu seiner ‚Kühlkomfort‘-Technologie Moov&Cool® für den Bekleidungs- und Sportartikelmarkt. Die patentierte Polymertechnologie wurde erstmals auf der Performance Days im April 2018 vorgestellt.

Moov&Cool ist eine patentierte Polymertechnologie, deren dauerhafte Wärmeaufnahmekapazität und Wärmeleitfähigkeit in Kombination mit einem außergewöhnlichen, ausgewogenen Feuchtetransfersystem für ein angenehm kühles Empfinden sorgt. Neben schneller Schweißaufnahme unterstützt die Technologie auf ausgewogene Weise auch die kontrollierte Schweißverdunstung. Als hochaktuelle Lösung zur Behandlung von Textilien wurde sie gezielt entwickelt, um die Leistungsfähigkeit von Profisportlern zu steigern und den Komfort von Breitensportartikeln zu verbessern.

Wahrhaft einzigartig
Devan erhebt den Anspruch der absoluten Einzigartigkeit seiner Technologie. „Wo andere Lösungen beim Verdunsten von Schweiß auf den Wind vertrauen, um ein kühles Hautgefühl zu erreichen, nutzt Moov&Cool die bei sportlichen Aktivitäten erzeugte, überschüssige Wärme, um die Körperkerntemperatur zu senken“, betont Dr. Vanessa Daelman, Business Unit Manager Performance bei Devan. „Das Prinzip wirkt auch bei reduzierter Windgeschwindigkeit, wie beispielsweise in Sporthallen.“

Darüber hinaus ist die Technologie nicht nur von Nutzen in heißen Klimazonen, sondern isoliert auch gegen Kälte. „Wenn Moov&Cool kälteren Temperaturen ausgesetzt wird, verengen sich die Poren der polymeren Schicht, sodass die Wärme zwischen dem Körper und dem Gewebe zurückgehalten wird“, so Dr. Daelman weiter.
Devan hat ein spezielles System entwickelt, um Sportartikelhersteller zur bestgeeigneten Nutzung der Technologie zu führen. Ziel des Systems ist die spezifische Dimensionierung von Moov&Cool für den vorgesehenen Einsatzzweck.

Testergebnisse
Devan legt großen Wert auf wissenschaftliche Nachweise und unabhängige Test. Das Unternehmen hat seine patentierte Technologie daher in Zusammenarbeit mit der Bakala-Akademie und der Universität Leuven strengen Prüfungen unterzogen. „Nach umfassenderen Tests mit Leistungssportlern können die Trends, die wir anfänglich sahen, inzwischen bestätigt werden“, sagt Dr. Daelman. „Moov&Cool bewirkt eine signifikante Absenkung der Körperkerntemperatur und hat einen positiven Effekt auf Herzfrequenz und Wärmeempfinden. Die vollständigen Testergebnisse werden wir auf der Performance Days am 28. und 29. November präsentieren.“

Von der Natur inspiriert
Devan zufolge gab ein Mechanismus in Pflanzen den Anstoß zur Entwicklung von Moov&Cool. „Pflanzen haben kleine, porenähnliche Öffnungen (Stomata) auf der Unterseite ihrer Blätter, die sie abhängig von den Umgebungsbedingungen öffnen und schließen“, erklärt Dr. Daelman. „So können sie ihren Wasser- und Wärmehaushalt regulieren.“
Devan präsentiert Moov&Cool im Detail während der Performance Days in München vom 28. bis 29. November auf Stand P11 in Halle C1.