From the Sector

From Resource-efficient and Recycled Fibres for Textiles and Building Panels to Geotextiles for Glacier Protection: Six award nominees present innovative and sustainable solutions for various industries in the cellulose fibre value chain. The full economic potential of the cellulose fibre industry will be introduced to a wide audience that will vote for the winners in Cologne (Germany), and online.

Again nova-Institute grants the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award in the context of the “Cellulose Fibres Conference”, that will take place in Cologne on 13 and 14 March 2024. In advance, the conferences advisory board nominated six remarkable products, including cellulose fibres from textile waste and straw, a novel technology for dying cellulose-based textiles and a construction panel as well as geotextiles. The innovations will be presented by the companies on the first day of the event. All conference participants can vote for one of the six nominees and the top three winners will be honoured with the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award. The Innovation award is sponsored by GIG Karasek (AT).

In addition, the ever-growing sectors of cellulose-based nonwovens, packaging and hygiene products offer conference participants insights beyond the horizon of traditional textile applications. Sustainability and other topics such as fibre-to-fibre recycling and alternative fibre sources are the key topics of the Cellulose Fibres Conference, held in Cologne, Germany, on 13 and 14 March 2024 and online. The conference will showcase the most successful cellulose-based solutions currently on the market or those planned for the near future.

The nominees:

The Straw Flexi-Dress: Design Meets Sustainability – DITF & VRETENA (DE)
The Flexi-Dress design was inspired by the natural golden colour and silky touch of HighPerCell® (HPC) filaments based on unbleached straw pulp. These cellulose filaments are produced using environmentally friendly spinning technology in a closed-loop production process. The design decisions focused on the emotional connection and attachment to the HPC material to create a local and circular fashion product. The Flexi-Dress is designed as a versatile knitted garment – from work to street – that can be worn as a dress, but can also be split into two pieces – used separately as a top and a straight skirt. The top can also be worn with the V-neck front or back. The HPC textile knit structure was considered important for comfort and emotional properties.

HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0) – Flame-retardant Board made From Upcycled Fibre Waste From the Paper Industry – Honext Material (ES)
HONEXT® FR-B board (B-s1, d0) is a flame-retardant board made from 100 % upcycled industrial waste fibres from the paper industry. Thanks to innovations in biotechnology, paper sludge is upcycled – the previously “worthless” residue from paper making – to create a fully recyclable material, all without the use of resins. This lightweight and easy-to-handle board boasts high mechanical performance and stability, along with low thermal conductivity, making it perfect for various applications in all interior environments where fire safety is a priority. The material is non-toxic, with no added VOCs, ensuring safety for both people and the planet. A sustainable and healthy material for the built environment, it achieves Cradle-to-Cradle Certified GOLD, and Material Health CertificateTM Gold Level version 4.0 with a carbon-negative footprint. Additionally, it is verified in the Product Environmental Footprint.

LENZING™ Cellulosic Fibres for Glacier Protection – Lenzing (AT)
Glaciers are now facing an unprecedented threat from global warming. Synthetic fibre-based geotextiles, while effective in slowing down glacier melt, create a new environmental challenge: microplastics contaminating glacial environments. The use of such materials contradicts the very purpose of glacier protection, as it exacerbates an already critical environmental problem. Recognizing this problem, the innovative use of cellulosic LENZING™ fibres presents a pioneering solution. The Institute of Ecology, at the University of Innsbruck, together with Lenzing and other partners made first trials in 2022 by covering small test fields with LENZING™ fibre-based geotextiles. The results were promising, confirming the effectiveness of this approach in slowing glacier melt without leaving behind microplastic.

The RENU Jacket – Advanced Recycling for Cellulosic Textiles – Pangaia (UK) & Evrnu (US)
PANGAIA LAB was born out of a dream to reduce barriers between people and the breakthrough innovations in material science. In 2023, PANGAIA LAB launched the RENU Jacket, a limited edition product made from 100% Nucycl® – a technology that recycles cellulosic textiles by breaking them down to their molecular building blocks, and reforming them into new fibres. This process produces a result that is 100% recycled and 100% recyclable when returned to the correct waste stream – maintaining the strength of the fibre so it doesn’t need to be blended with virgin material.
Through collaboration with Evrnu, the PANGAIA team created the world’s first 100% chemically recycled denim jacket, replacing a material traditionally made from 100% virgin cotton. By incorporating Nucycl® into this iconic fabric construction, dyed with natural indigo, the teams have demonstrated that it’s possible to replace ubiquitous materials with this innovation.

Textiles Made from Easy-to-dye Biocelsol – VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland (FI)
One third of the textile industry’s wastewater is generated in dyeing and one fifth in finishing. But the use of chemically modified Biocelsol fibres reduces waste water. The knitted fabric is made from viscose and Biocelsol fibres and is only dyed after knitting. This gives the Biocelsol fibres a darker shade, using the same amount of dye and no salt in dyeing process. In addition, an interesting visual effect can be achieved. Moreover, less dye is needed for the darker colour tone in the finished textile and the possibility to use the salt-free dyeing is more environmentally friendly.
These special properties of man-made cellulosic fibres will reassert the fibres as a replacement for the existing fossil-based fibres, thus filling the demand for more environmentally friendly dyeing-solutions in the textile industry. The functionalised Biocelsol fibres were made in Finnish Academy FinnCERES project and are produced by wet spinning technique from the cellulose dope containing low amounts of 3-allyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl substituents. The functionality formed is permanent and has been shown to significantly improve the dyeability of the fibres. In addition, the functionalisation of Biocelsol fibres reduces the cost of textile finishing and dyeing as well as the effluent load.

A New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre – TreeToTextile (SE)
TreeToTextile has developed a unique, sustainable and resource efficient fibre that doesn't exist on the market today. It has a natural dry feel similar to cotton and a semi-dull sheen and high drape like viscose. It is based on cellulose and has the potential to complement or replace cotton, viscose and polyester as a single fibre or in blends, depending on the application.
TreeToTextile Technology™ has a low demand for chemicals, energy and water. According to a third party verified LCA, the TreeToTextile fibre has a climate impact of 0.6 kg CO2 eq/kilo fibre. The fibre is made from bio-based and traceable resources and is biodegradable.

The report details sustainability efforts at its Boennigheim headquarters and targets for 2024. Hohenstein has replaced previous environmental guidelines with strategic development in accordance with Environmental, Social and Corporate Governance (ESG) and adopted a sustainability roadmap for the future.

Hohenstein has been implementing environmental and social measures for decades. As the first neutral assessment of these measures in 2019, Hohenstein participated in the ECOfit programme in Baden-Württemberg, Germany. A regular external assessment is to be introduced in 2024.

• Environmental: Overall, energy consumption was actively reduced, and renewable energy use promoted. Hohenstein also collected rail and air travel data to be used in CO2 accounting in 2024.
• Social: Hohenstein actively involved its employees in sustainability activities based on a survey and internal education. In future, Hohenstein will improve the ratio of female managers and implement a training campaign on the company values for employees.
• Governance: Hohenstein management has prioritized good communication through regular colloquia for employees and access to human resources consultation. They intend to intensify the dialogue with employees through further events.

There are only a few days left until the SEEK community comes together at the Station Berlin on 16 and 17 January 2024. The team around SEEK's Show Director Marie-Luise Patzelt is looking forward to welcome around 200 brands, speakers such as Jessica Arnold (Adidas), Sebastian Haufellner (Lodenfrey), Yannik Dietrich (Breuninger), Martyna Zastawna (Vogue), numerous game changers from the sustainability scene and new fashion and lifestyle inspirations.

The new alliance between SEEK and UNION Showroom presents its joint project "THE JUNCTION" for the first time. A selection of high-quality brands with a focus on craftsmanship, origin, and history will be presented in Station Berlin's exclusive loft spaces, includes brands such as A New Sweden, Bruné, Freenote Cloth, Fullcount, Godspeed, Good-Alls, Hidden Aces, Nudie Jeans, Oodoo Boots, Paltò, Viberg, White Sand, and Tenue. THE JUNCTION starts simultaneously with UNION on 14.01.24 and ends with SEEK on 17.01.24.

The SEEK brand portfolio currently encompasses almost 200 brands, including 46 % conscious brands and 45 % newcomers. Buyers and visitors can look forward to brands such as Aer Scents, Bask in the Sun, Chrome, Danner, Dedicated, Givn Berlin, Hestra, Kangaroos, Novesta, Palladium, Pyrenex, Santa Cruz Skateboards, Welter Shelter and Woodbird. Newcomers include Afoam Stories, A Good Company, Dale Of Norway, Good Wool Story, Heimat, Hen's Teeth, Open Era, Pompeii, The Jogg Concept, Wax London and many more.

The SEEK Conscious Club forms the heart of the January edition and is developing into the "place to be" of the sustainability scene. Purpose-driven business practices, systematic sustainability and practical standards will become even more crucial in 2024. With this in mind, the SEEK team introduces the innovative "360 Sustainability Validation" with its partners IVALO.COM and studio MM04. The "360 Sustainability Validation" - powered by IVALO.COM and consulted by studio MM04. Customers can see brand sustainability in 8 different sustainability categories. 360 is a commercial production value chain analysis tool that provides results that are comparable. The aim is to make the complex sub-areas of sustainability in fashion more transparent and comparable. The SEEK team has been working with the sustainability experts at studio MM04 for a long time and is delighted to be part of this important step towards standardising sustainability evaluations. Participating brands in this years Conscious Club are Basic Apparel, Bread & Boxers, Cabaia, Camper, Dawn Denim, Flamingos Life, Isaora, Jan'n June, Kings of Indigo, Rita Row, Secrid, Stapf and Thinking Mu, amongst others.

Together with renowned experts, SEEK is once again presenting a content programme with live interviews, talks, panels and community classes. Speakers such as Carl Tillessen (Deutsches Mode Institut), Steffen Liese (JD Sports), Stephan Huber (Style in Progress), Penny Whitelaw (Good on You), Mimi Sewalski (Avocadostore), Valerie Vogel (Engelhorn), Cheryll Mühlen (J'N'C), Rune Orloff (Pool), Sabine Rogg (Trendbüro), Anthony Lui (A New Sweden), Patrick Bergmann (Famefact), Florian Müller (Müller PR & Consulting) will share their insights exclusively with the SEEK community. The diverse programme includes themes such as pricing and profiling success strategies in times of disruption, a "no-bullshit" guide for brand spaces, the most important LinkedIn and consumer trends for 2024, new chances for recruiting and leadership as well as mental health in fashion.

Monforts' new Montex 8500 stenter line was recently installed at Curt Bauer’s plant in Aue in Germany.

Curt Bauer has been in continuous operation for 150 years, beginning as a weaving mill in Aue in the Ore Mountains region of Saxony back in 1882. Today, with 120 employees, the company has an annual production of 2.2 million metres of fabric and specialises in three key fields – home textiles, special damask fabrics for West African garments and technical textiles.

A first Montex stenter was installed by Monforts at the Aue plant in 2003 and an older machine from a third party supplier was also still in operation prior to the latest upgrade.
“The replacement of our older existing stenter, which was installed in 1985, was long overdue,” explains Gert Bauer. “It had a maximum working width of 2.2 metres and we were looking to both increase productivity and reduce energy requirements.”

As a consequence, the company opted for a new Montex 8500 line with a working width of 3.2 metres equipped with the MonforClean heat recovery and exhaust air purification system. The Montex stenter remains unmatched in terms of its robustness and long service life and with MonforClean technology, the waste heat from the drying process is used to pre-heat the drying air. This results in a radical reduction in the conventional heat supply required, compared to full gas and thermal oil heating. Overall energy savings of up to 40% can now be achieved compared to conventional stenters.

The first challenge at the Aue plant was how to fit the significantly larger machine into the available space without restricting the area required for docking operations.

The special multi-level configuration that Monforts designers and Curt Bauer’s team devised in order to meet these requirements involved raising all of the line’s drying zones – with a combined length of over 28 metres – on scaffolding platforms, to enable the ground floor space below them to continue to be fully utilised.

The next challenge involved configuring the MonforClean system without having to make any costly changes to the roofing structure. This, Gert Bauer observes, demanded “millimetre precision”.

With the new line now fully operational, the savings it is providing have yet to be fully calculated.

SEEK is not only presenting the first edition of its new chapter in January 2024 but is also welcoming a new partner on board: UNION Showroom. The new alliance from Berlin combines the strengths of both formats intending to offer buyers from all over the world an even more comprehensive experience in Germany's fashion capital.

With united forces, the two teams led by Marie-Luise Patzelt (SEEK) and Felix Engelmann (UNION Showroom) are showcasing their new project "THE JUNCTION". A selection of brands will be presented in Station Berlin's exclusive loft spaces, including Nudie Jeans, Tenue, Viberg, White Sand, Paltò, Freenote Cloth, Ootoo Boots and A New Sweden. At the same time, the lofts are the transition to the UNION Showroom, taking place at the neighbouring Kühlhaus. The collaboration embodies the idea of a cooperative platform that enables buyers to discover the best collections from both platforms.

THE JUNCTION starts simultaneously with UNION on 14.01.24 and ends with SEEK on 17.01.24.

Vietnam is the subject of increasing investment across an array of industries, with its textile sector going from strength to strength in a short space of time. To give key players from across the textile spectrum an opportunity to make their presence felt in this market, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will make its debut from 28 February – 1 March 2024. Taking place at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), the new fair will cover three main product sectors, namely apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres, and garments; home textiles; as well as technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, and printing technology.

In line with the industry’s anticipation, the country was identified as the ideal location for ASEAN’s new comprehensive textile platform for several key reasons. Vietnam’s pro-business policies, strategic geographical location, abundant labour force, and favourable trade agreements have contributed to its rise as a global textile manufacturing hub. Agreements such as the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP); the Indo-Pacific Economic Framework for Prosperity (IPEF); and 15 free trade agreements (FTAs) covering over 60 countries and regions, will further enable participants from across the value chain to conduct cross-border business after connecting at next year’s show. In addition, several key travel initiatives that serve international players have been implemented, including the country’s APEC Business Travel Card programme^[1], availability of e-visas to all nationalities, and visa-free travel for select countries^[2].  

Exhibitors from multiple textile sub-sectors converge in February
In Vietnam’s home textile segment, rising urbanisation, emerging young consumers, and higher disposable incomes are interrelated factors driving growth^[3]. Globally, three of the top trends include recycling; utilising green fibres; and the increasing use of technical fabrics for enhanced comfort and health. At the fair, confirmed home textiles exhibitors include Hanyang Eco Tex, Hohmann GmbH, Phuong Nam Feather, and SIGMA, set to showcase their most up-to-date products, covering bedding, upholstery fabrics, curtain, and sun protection.
 
Utilised for automobiles, civil aviation, construction, health care, and more, Vietnam's exports of technical textiles reached USD 676.6 million for the first nine months of 2022, up 17.1% compared to the same period in 2021^[4]. This in turn bodes well for the country’s import prospects of quality machinery and equipment. Hoping to cater to domestic demand at VIATT 2024, international suppliers in this category include Julai, SIGMA, and Skwentex.

Meanwhile, apparel-related products make up the lion’s share of the country’s textile exports – according to Vietnam Textile & Apparel Association (VITAS), in 2022 these numbered USD 29.1 billion. From Ho Chi Minh to Hanoi, numerous international fashion brands have a manufacturing presence, including Adidas, H&M, Lacoste, Lululemon, Nike, The North Face, Uniqlo, and many more. At next year’s fair, exhibitors such as Avery Dennison, Lenzing, Stylem Takisada-Osaka, and Texwinca, will aim to draw the attention of apparel brands and a wide range of other domestic and international buyers.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), covering the entire textile industry value chain.

^[1] ‘Everything You Need to Know About Traveling to Vietnam with an APEC Business Travel Card’, April 2023, Vietnam Briefing, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/apec-business-travel-card-vietnam.html/ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[2] ‘Vietnam Introduces E-Visa for All Nationalities from August 15, 2023’, August 2023, Vietnam Briefing, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/vietnam-introduces-e-visa-for-all-nationalities-from-august-15-2023.html/ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[3] ‘Vietnam Home Textile Market Size & Share Analysis’, 2023, Mordor Intelligence, https://shorturl.at/wQVWZ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[4] ‘Vietnam's technical fabric exports continue to be positive’, October 2022, Web Portal of Supporting Industry of Vietnam, https://shorturl.at/lmnvX (Retrieved: November 2023)

Autoneum’s sustainable, textile and lightweight Propylat technology reduces both interior and exterior noise of vehicles. Propylat was originally developed by Borgers Automotive, which was acquired by Autoneum in April 2023. The versatile technology is characterized by a flexible material composition of natural and synthetic fibers with a high recycled content and contributes to significant waste reduction thanks to its complete vertical integration. In addition, the fully recyclable technology variant Propylat PET is now part of the sustainability label Autoneum Pure.

The ongoing electrification of mobility as well as increasingly strict regulatory requirements for vehicle performance in terms of sustainability and acoustics are presenting new challenges to car manufacturers worldwide. With Propylat, Autoneum now offers another lightweight, fiber-based and versatile technology whose sound-insulating and -absorbing properties as well as high content of recycled materials help customers address these challenges. Propylat-based products not only contribute to reducing pass-by noise and improving driver comfort, but they are also up to 50 percent lighter than equivalent plastic alternatives; this results in a lower vehicle weight and, consequently, less fuel and energy consumption as well as lower CO2 emissions.

Autoneum's innovative Propylat technology consists of a mixture of recycled synthetic and natural fibers – the latter include cotton, jute, flax or hemp, for example – that are consolidated using thermoplastic binding fibers without adding any further chemical binders. Thanks to the flexible fiber composition and the variable density and thickness of the porous material, the properties of the respective Propylat variant, for example with regards to acoustic performance, can be tailored to individual customer requirements. This allows for a versatile application of the technology in a variety of interior and exterior components such as wheelhouse outer liners, trunk trim, underbody systems and carpets. For instance, Propylat-based wheelhouse outer liners significantly reduce rolling noise both inside and outside the vehicle while at the same time offering optimum protection against stone chipping and spray water.

In terms of sustainability, Propylat always contains a high proportion of recycled fibers – up to 100% in some variants – and can be manufactured with zero waste. Thanks to the full vertical integration of Propylat and Autoneum’s extensive expertise in recycling processes, the technology also contributes to a further significant reduction in production waste. Moreover, the Propylat PET technology variant, which consists of 100% PET, of which up to 70% are recycled fibers, is fully recyclable at the end of product life. For this reason, Propylat PET has been selected for Autoneum Pure – the Company’s sustainability label for technologies with excellent environmental performance throughout the product life cycle – where it will replace the current Mono-Liner technology going forward.

Propylat-based components are currently available in Europe, North America and China.

The EPTA – European Pultrusion Technology Association in cooperation with the American Composites Manufacturers Association (ACMA) invites you to the 17th World Pultrusion Conference which takes place on 29 February – 1 March 2024 in Hamburg, Germany.

This conference takes place every two years and is the meeting point of the European and worldwide Pultrusion Industry. More than 25 international speakers from Finland, Belgium, Germany, France, Spain, The Netherlands, Turkey, UK, USA, Canada and others will present practical presentations about innovative applications, technologies and processes. Equally current market trends and developments are on the agenda.

This World Pultrusion Conference takes place again in the week before the JEC World Composites Show (5-7 March 2024, Paris).

The program is available here.

Although the dates for INDEX™26 had already been announced (21-24 April 2026), the organiser has decided to postpone the event to May to avoid a scheduling conflict.
INDEX™26 will therefore take place from 19 to 22 May 2026. This will allow exhibitors and visitors to be present at both events.

ITMA ASIA + CITME, Asia’s leading trade fair for textile machinery, took place in Shanghai with a considerable presence of VDMA member companies. The round about 40 exhibiting VDMA members covered nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning and manmade fibers, nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting & hosiery, finishing & dyeing and textile processing. They were part of a strong German presence with a total of around 60 German exhibitors – including non-machine manufacturers.

During a press conference on the first day of the show, Dr. Janpeter Horn, chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association and managing director of August Herzog Maschinenfabrik expressed: “After years of cancelled or postponed trade fairs and travel restrictions, this year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME is the first edition of the show that can be attended not just by Chinese but by visitors from various countries and regions. The event is a good opportunity to meet customers and partners again in person and not just on a screen. ITMA ASIA + CITME provides a good chance to deepen the already good relations with China and other Asian countries further and to set-up new partnerships.”

Dr. Horn continued to present latest facts and figures about the German textile machinery industry. Between January and August 2023, the overall exports of textile machinery and accessories summed up to 1.7 billion euros, which was a slight decrease compared to the same period in 2022. The shipping to almost all major markets decreased between January and August: China: 440 million € (2022: 453 million €), Turkey: 205 million € (2022: 265 million €), USA: 177 million € (2022: 144 million €), India: 170 million € (2022: 228 million €).

Numerous VDMA member companies have production sites in the major Asian markets China and India and serve their customers in these countries from there. A latest VDMA business climate survey among the textile machinery companies in China showed, that 75% of all participants assessed their current business situation as either good (6%) or satisfactory (69%). For the coming quarter, 50% of the companies see the market to decline. Asked about the business situation during the next six months, 44% of the companies expect the market to remain stable, 56% expect the situation to become worse. This is also reflected in the HR of the companies: 63% expect the number of employees to remain unchanged.