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new sleep promoting technology Photo Devan
27.01.2025

Devan Chemicals: New sleep promoting technology with biobased microcapsules

Devan, a global leader in sustainable textile finishes, launched an innovative sleep promoting technology, “Devan Sleep Tight”, at Heimtextil 2025. This technology enhances sleep quality and overall quality of life, as confirmed by an independent clinical trial.

Inspired by the global "Beauty Sleep" trend, Devan introduces its latest innovation in sleep wellness. The active ingredient is derived from an upcycled by-product of Australian Tea Tree oil. This active ingredient acts by two complementary pathways, inhalation and skin contact, to improve nighttime benefits and skin regeneration to provide a healthier looking skin and revitalized look by morning.

Designed for use in textiles such as bedding and sleepwear, the new solution aims to transform nightly rest into a rejuvenating ritual, perfectly aligning with modern consumers' desire for holistic self-care.

The technology boosts the melatonin action, reduces the production of ROS (reactive oxygen species), stimulates the production of antioxidant genes and protein and stimulates the collagen gene expression.

Devan, a global leader in sustainable textile finishes, launched an innovative sleep promoting technology, “Devan Sleep Tight”, at Heimtextil 2025. This technology enhances sleep quality and overall quality of life, as confirmed by an independent clinical trial.

Inspired by the global "Beauty Sleep" trend, Devan introduces its latest innovation in sleep wellness. The active ingredient is derived from an upcycled by-product of Australian Tea Tree oil. This active ingredient acts by two complementary pathways, inhalation and skin contact, to improve nighttime benefits and skin regeneration to provide a healthier looking skin and revitalized look by morning.

Designed for use in textiles such as bedding and sleepwear, the new solution aims to transform nightly rest into a rejuvenating ritual, perfectly aligning with modern consumers' desire for holistic self-care.

The technology boosts the melatonin action, reduces the production of ROS (reactive oxygen species), stimulates the production of antioxidant genes and protein and stimulates the collagen gene expression.

+97% Biobased microcapsules
The technology is based on microencapsulation. First the active ingredients are incapsulated. Next, the biobased microcapsules are applied to the textile. The treated textiles touch our skin and the capsules break due to friction between the body and the textile. The content of the biobased capsules is then released and absorbed by the skin, while the volatile components of the active ingredients are simultaneously inhaled.

The microcapsules are readily biodegradable (tested according to the OECD 301B guideline). Possible applications are pillows, bed sheets, bed accessories, sleepwear, ...

Clinical study
33 healthy female and male subjects, aged between 18 and 60 years, with sleep problems, were using a treated pillow cover with R-Vital NTL 10015 Sleep Tight every night for 30 days. Each subject was required to fill out the Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index and a quality of life (QoL) questionnaire, focused on the sleep quality, quality of life and overall well-being, before and after 30 days of using the respective product. The Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index (PSQI) is a scientifically validated tool widely used to reliably assess and measure sleep quality.

The data shows that after 30 days of using a pillow case treated with R-Vital NTL 10015, subjects experienced notable improvements in several key areas of sleep and quality of life. The most significant changes were seen in sleep quality, sleep latency, sleep disturbances, reduction of daytime dysfunction and quality of life.

Showcased at Heimtextil 2025 in Frankfurt
Devan’s Sleep Tight technology was prominently featured at Heimtextil in Frankfurt, both by Devan and several of its partners. Notable among them were Crispim Abreu Lda and Lameirinho, two Portuguese companies specializing in bed linen and sleepwear, as well as Naturtex from Hungary, a leading producer of quilts and pillows.

The first productions are already underway, ensuring the technology will be available on the market by the second quarter of 2025. These alliances empower Devan Sleep Tight to deliver unparalleled value to manufacturers, retailers and consumers alike.

Source:

Devan Chemicals NV

Graphic/Photos: Bangladesh Labour Foundation
07.01.2025

Bangladesh: Automation led to more than 30% decline in total workforce

A Study Dissemination on ‘Assessment of Technological Transition in the Apparel Sector of Bangladesh and Its Impact on Workers’ has arranged by Bangladesh Labour Foundation (BLF), Solidaridad Network Asia & Brac University.

Automation had led to a 30.58% decline in the total workforce across production processes in the ready-made garment (RMG) sector with the majority of the displaced workers being helpers, according to the study.

While automation has boosted economic growth and productivity in the sector, it has simultaneously created significant challenges for RMG workers—especially women, older employees, less literate individuals, and those lacking skills or confidence.

The sweater factory subsector experienced the highest workforce reduction, with a 37.03% decline per production line, followed by woven factories, which saw a 27.23% drop. In terms of specific production processes, the cutting stage showed the most pronounced reduction, with a 48.34% decrease in workers, whereas the sewing process experienced a comparatively smaller decline of 26.57%.

A Study Dissemination on ‘Assessment of Technological Transition in the Apparel Sector of Bangladesh and Its Impact on Workers’ has arranged by Bangladesh Labour Foundation (BLF), Solidaridad Network Asia & Brac University.

Automation had led to a 30.58% decline in the total workforce across production processes in the ready-made garment (RMG) sector with the majority of the displaced workers being helpers, according to the study.

While automation has boosted economic growth and productivity in the sector, it has simultaneously created significant challenges for RMG workers—especially women, older employees, less literate individuals, and those lacking skills or confidence.

The sweater factory subsector experienced the highest workforce reduction, with a 37.03% decline per production line, followed by woven factories, which saw a 27.23% drop. In terms of specific production processes, the cutting stage showed the most pronounced reduction, with a 48.34% decrease in workers, whereas the sewing process experienced a comparatively smaller decline of 26.57%.

The findings emphasize the urgent need to address “Just Transition” issues, which aim to balance economic advancement with equitable outcomes for displaced workers, as highlighted in the study’s executive summary.

Source:

Bangladesh Labour Foundation

Source; Retviews study by Lectra
21.11.2024

Black Friday fashion trends: Insights from the new Retviews study by Lectra

  • Considering that 2024 summer discounts have increased compared to the previous year (+6%), even sharper price cuts are expected for Black Friday and Cyber Monday
  • Outerwear: the growing popularity of suede garments suggests that brands should focus their discounts on other outerwear, such as down jackets
  • Sneakers: basic and slim-fit models are selling out quickly, while those with a more structured fit are experiencing slower turnover

With Black Friday and Cyber Monday just around the corner, fashion brands are called upon to make conscious and targeted decisions to remain competitive during this peak season. In this context, Lectra, a leader in Industry 4.0 within the fashion, automotive and furniture sectors, leveraged real-time data from Retviews – its AI-powered solution for automated market intelligence to offer insights on increasing sales, reducing stocks and boosting profitability. These tips aim to guide brands in developing the most effective discount strategies based on key fashion trends for the year’s most popular shopping period.

  • Considering that 2024 summer discounts have increased compared to the previous year (+6%), even sharper price cuts are expected for Black Friday and Cyber Monday
  • Outerwear: the growing popularity of suede garments suggests that brands should focus their discounts on other outerwear, such as down jackets
  • Sneakers: basic and slim-fit models are selling out quickly, while those with a more structured fit are experiencing slower turnover

With Black Friday and Cyber Monday just around the corner, fashion brands are called upon to make conscious and targeted decisions to remain competitive during this peak season. In this context, Lectra, a leader in Industry 4.0 within the fashion, automotive and furniture sectors, leveraged real-time data from Retviews – its AI-powered solution for automated market intelligence to offer insights on increasing sales, reducing stocks and boosting profitability. These tips aim to guide brands in developing the most effective discount strategies based on key fashion trends for the year’s most popular shopping period.

Discounts: marked reductions are expected, but targeted at specific categories
For brands, preparing year-end discounts require careful planning to align with consumer preferences. The summer sales period, which represents the highest sales peak before winter promotions, serves as a valuable indicator. AI-based solutions, such as Retviews, are useful to identify and track items that only sell with discounts versus those with high sell-through rates and regular restocking. This allows brands to pinpoint when and where discounts are necessary, optimizing inventory and maximizing profitability.

In particular, Retviews data shows that summer discounts in Europe increased by 6% in 2024 compared to the previous year, suggesting even sharper price cuts for Black Friday and Cyber Monday.

In 2023 the average discount rate slightly decreased compared to 2022 (35% vs 37%); however, weaker summer sales this year indicate a greater quantity of products in stock, which may prompt brands to increase their reductions (following a trend that had already established itself in the United States in 2023, when discount rates had risen to 40%, compared to 37% in 2022).
Strategic and targeted price reductions, however, will help brands maintain margins while also meeting the demands from fashion enthusiasts. So, which product categories are likely to see the most significant discounts?
 
Autumn jackets: full price for suede outerwear, discounts on down jackets
In the autumn-winter season, outerwear is at the heart of collections, with this year's styles ranging from denim and leather to suede. Suede stands out as a premium, on-trend fabric with high consumer demand. For instance, in ZARA's latest collection, suede jackets quickly became bestsellers, with the brand’s blazers consistently selling out and being restocked, despite their premium pricing.
 
The popularity of suede highlights its potential as a full-price item, allowing brands to focus discounts on other pieces and prioritize full-price sales for trend-driven items. Classic and timeless styles continue to dominate, from tailored blazers to sophisticated silhouettes seen in prêt-à-porter, premium, and luxury collections. Meanwhile, down jackets, which are a key part of the Gorpcore trend, could now be considered a less promising investment for brands and may therefore see deeper discounts this Black Friday.

Sneakers: slim fits are bestsellers, while running shoes see lower demand
When it comes to sneakers, there has been a surge in popularity for classic, aerodynamic styles, with consumers gravitating towards slim and basic models inspired by Adidas classics such as Sambas, Gazelles, and Spezials. These slimmer, retro-inspired models are selling out quickly, while more structured sneakers appear to have slower turnover rates. According to Retviews data, retro and colorful sneakers have become bestsellers in brand collections from Adidas, Puma and Zara. On the other hand, bulkier, running-style sneakers are experiencing lower demand, with larger stock levels. Consequently, these items may be subject to special discounts.

Source:

Lectra

Photo PaperTale
10.10.2024

PaperTale: Digital twin supply chain

A digital twin supply chain has recently been established by Swedish start-up PaperTale for Sail Racing – a brand well known for its durable and long-lasting performance garments for the marine industry.

The PaperTale system for Sail Racing fully maps a complex network, beginning with farmers in Australia, moving to garment workers in Pakistan and finally reaching consumers in Scandinavia. It incorporates data collection from the three countries using NFC tags and blockchain technology to provide detailed supply chain insights and ensure regulatory compliance for the brand.

Introducing the usually anonymous factory workers responsible for each individual garment to the person buying it is what sets PaperTale apart from other tracking systems – a next level of personalisation that will make a valuable contribution to raising the debate on the true cost of textiles.

A digital twin supply chain has recently been established by Swedish start-up PaperTale for Sail Racing – a brand well known for its durable and long-lasting performance garments for the marine industry.

The PaperTale system for Sail Racing fully maps a complex network, beginning with farmers in Australia, moving to garment workers in Pakistan and finally reaching consumers in Scandinavia. It incorporates data collection from the three countries using NFC tags and blockchain technology to provide detailed supply chain insights and ensure regulatory compliance for the brand.

Introducing the usually anonymous factory workers responsible for each individual garment to the person buying it is what sets PaperTale apart from other tracking systems – a next level of personalisation that will make a valuable contribution to raising the debate on the true cost of textiles.

“Our system captures the supply chain of a product from cradle to grave, in real-time,” says company founder Bilal Bhatti. “By integrating it into existing planning and management systems, factories and brands can gather and verify the flow of material and their social and environmental data in real-time. Data is added to a public blockchain so it is extremely hard to tamper with, further increasing trust. When a product is finalised, consumers can scan an NFC tag or QR-code to view the entire journey a product has travelled, which craftsmen were involved in the production, and if they have been paid fairly.”

“This technology is a game-changer in that we provide verified information about the social aspects of the manufacturing process and not just information about the components of the garment,” says Bilal. “We need products and processes to be much more connected with people, especially in such a complex supply chain where a high percentage of the work is carried out by contract workers who are unregistered and often exploited.

“When the entire product journey is visible using real-time and verified data, higher trust is created all the way from factories to consumers. Our system makes it possible to start the dialogue on the cost of sustainability, paving the way to increase incentives that result in proper wages, contracts and workplace safety. In respect of environmental sustainability, real-time data makes real-time measurement possible, which will also stimulate brands and factories to reduce emissions, water usage and pollution.”

The collaboration is further highlighted as the primary case study in a just-released white paper prepared by Deloitte, as a guide to how companies could most effectively prepare for the European Commission’s upcoming Digital Product Passport (DPP) and other related legislation.

Source:

PaperTale

CLOT Gazelle in linen khaki and blue (c) adidas
21.08.2024

adidas: CLOT August Collection

adidas Originals and Edison Chen present the next chapter of their collaboration with the debut of an updated CLOT Gazelle in linen khaki and blue. The ongoing collaboration debuts its first global apparel range with the CLOT August Collection by Edison Chen.

As Edison Chen continues to build bridges between East and West, Chen brings together renowned Spanish football players, Vicky Lopez and Mapi Leon, and Tino El Pingüino, an influential rapper in the Latin music scene, to celebrate this new collection through a campaign that opens the door to their own imaginations. Coming together as one, each collaborator invites to experience a taste of their daily reality and the adventurous paths they tread along the way, igniting creativity and inviting consumers to step into new realms through the creative lens of Edison. With this campaign, Edison Chen was inspired to bring together fashion and cultural impact through the sport of football and music, all inspired by Chen’s extensive travels throughout Europe. The campaign embarks on a journey to create something new out of a classic with an untraditional execution for sportswear.

adidas Originals and Edison Chen present the next chapter of their collaboration with the debut of an updated CLOT Gazelle in linen khaki and blue. The ongoing collaboration debuts its first global apparel range with the CLOT August Collection by Edison Chen.

As Edison Chen continues to build bridges between East and West, Chen brings together renowned Spanish football players, Vicky Lopez and Mapi Leon, and Tino El Pingüino, an influential rapper in the Latin music scene, to celebrate this new collection through a campaign that opens the door to their own imaginations. Coming together as one, each collaborator invites to experience a taste of their daily reality and the adventurous paths they tread along the way, igniting creativity and inviting consumers to step into new realms through the creative lens of Edison. With this campaign, Edison Chen was inspired to bring together fashion and cultural impact through the sport of football and music, all inspired by Chen’s extensive travels throughout Europe. The campaign embarks on a journey to create something new out of a classic with an untraditional execution for sportswear.

The CLOT Gazelle by Edison Chen arrives with premium nubuck details on a jute upper and an espadrille sole now adorned with blue stripes. The espadrille gives the shoe a luxurious touch while the khaki coloring achieves a playful, relaxing tone. Derived from the study of traditional Espadrille-making and inspired by classic Espadrille artisans, the stitching was applied to the final construction of the CLOT Gazelle, with special attention given to how the upper is assembled to the bottom. The cotton tape is all custom engineered for the shoe and beaded using an intricate process inspired by Eastern influence. Finally, the midsole is custom engineered for maximum support, highlighting the new construction process.

More information:
Edison Chen adidas linen
Source:

adidas AG

Salzburg Research: Sensors built into firefighter jacket (c) Salzburg Research
13.08.2024

Salzburg Research: Sensors built into firefighter jacket

Salzburg Research and the University of Salzburg developed an intelligent firefighter jacket on behalf of the fire service supplier Texport GmbH. Sensors built into the jacket report impending overheating and immediately initiate countermeasures. The prototype has now been successfully tested in the fire simulation system under real conditions.

Firefighting operations are very demanding: high temperatures, heavy protective clothing, physical exertion, and psychological stress put an enormous burden on the emergency services. If it gets too hot in the suit, heat stress occurs when the core body temperature reaches around 38.5° Celsius. Those affected are more willing to take risks, more impulsive, may make wrong decisions, and overestimate their physical capabilities. In extreme cases, firefighters can collapse.

Salzburg Research and the University of Salzburg developed an intelligent firefighter jacket on behalf of the fire service supplier Texport GmbH. Sensors built into the jacket report impending overheating and immediately initiate countermeasures. The prototype has now been successfully tested in the fire simulation system under real conditions.

Firefighting operations are very demanding: high temperatures, heavy protective clothing, physical exertion, and psychological stress put an enormous burden on the emergency services. If it gets too hot in the suit, heat stress occurs when the core body temperature reaches around 38.5° Celsius. Those affected are more willing to take risks, more impulsive, may make wrong decisions, and overestimate their physical capabilities. In extreme cases, firefighters can collapse.

Salzburg Research worked with the University of Salzburg to find ways to automatically avoid heat stress. The first step was to identify the critical point at which firefighters are at risk of overheating. To do this, sensors were integrated into the jacket to measure sweat and humidity. In an initial laboratory study, 19 participants were subjected to physical stress tests in full gear. The optimal sensors and their placement were determined in order to reliably determine heat stress. The algorithm developed now recognizes the point at which it becomes too hot for firefighters.

A cooling system was then installed in the jacket lining to improve the vital parameters and well-being of the firefighters and increase the safety of operations. The innovative air cooling system sparingly uses the air that firefighters carry in an additional compressed air cylinder.

Prototypes of the fire jacket were tested in the summer under real conditions in the fire simulation system. Twelve firefighters completed a simulated fire mission with and without the cooling system. Sensor data and feedback confirmed the effectiveness of the system.

The research work was funded as a cross-state cooperation within the framework of the WISS2025 strategy of the state of Salzburg.

Source:

Salzburg Research Forschungsgesellschaft m.b.H.

Emanuel Gunnarsson, University of Borås Photo University of Borås
19.04.2024

Healthcare: Solution for smart textile production

Smart textiles have the potential to revolutionise healthcare. In his doctoral thesis in textile technology at the University of Borås, Emanuel Gunnarsson presents unique solutions to the bottleneck that has long inhibited the market.

With an ageing population, increasing demands are being placed on healthcare and smart textiles can offer a solution where only imagination sets limits. “The long-term goal of most smart textiles is for them to be so easy to use that the user doesn't think of them as anything more than regular garments. No special procedure should be needed to use them. If we succeed in that, we won't burden healthcare by having healthcare personnel administer vital parameter monitoring such as blood pressure and pulse, as the user can handle it themselves,” said Emanuel Gunnarsson.

In his work, he has investigated how a t-shirt for measuring heart rhythm and movement patterns, and garments for electrostimulation, can be produced in a single step. This involves the connection between the contact surfaces (electrodes), the insulated conductive paths between the electrode and the contact point, and the electrical measuring equipment required.

Smart textiles have the potential to revolutionise healthcare. In his doctoral thesis in textile technology at the University of Borås, Emanuel Gunnarsson presents unique solutions to the bottleneck that has long inhibited the market.

With an ageing population, increasing demands are being placed on healthcare and smart textiles can offer a solution where only imagination sets limits. “The long-term goal of most smart textiles is for them to be so easy to use that the user doesn't think of them as anything more than regular garments. No special procedure should be needed to use them. If we succeed in that, we won't burden healthcare by having healthcare personnel administer vital parameter monitoring such as blood pressure and pulse, as the user can handle it themselves,” said Emanuel Gunnarsson.

In his work, he has investigated how a t-shirt for measuring heart rhythm and movement patterns, and garments for electrostimulation, can be produced in a single step. This involves the connection between the contact surfaces (electrodes), the insulated conductive paths between the electrode and the contact point, and the electrical measuring equipment required.

“This, as far as we know, has never been described before. We are completely convinced that this is the solution to a significant bottleneck when it comes to getting the smart textile market going in earnest,” said Emanuel Gunnarsson.

His work has resulted in two different simple ways to produce smart textiles. He demonstrates that sensors can be integrated using standard textile manufacturing methods. The research also includes criticism of some of the methods used to measure the functionality of smart textiles, and advice on how to do it better instead.

“The next natural step will be to see how these garments cope with one of the toughest challenges a garment faces, namely washing. Especially as these garments must be worn closest to the skin, they will need to be washed relatively often,” said Emanuel Gunnarsson.

Studies from other universities indicate that the yarns used to measure signals from the body do not withstand many washes, but after a small pilot study, Emanuel Gunnarsson is hopeful of the opposite.

Source:

University of Borås

A Dress For Venice 2023 Illustration by Jacopo Ascari for A Dress For Venice 2023
05.09.2023

A Dress For Venice - Debut at the International Film Festival

The project "A Dress For Venice" get on the Red Carpet at the Venice Film Festival to advocate for sustainability. September 7th, actress Margot Sikabonyi will wear a dress from the collection designed by conscious designer Tiziano Guardini, illustrated by artist Jacopo Ascari, and produced by Martina Vidal Venezia, with the following materials:

  • Bemberg™: The innovative and biodegradable fiber from the Japanese company Asahi Kasei.
  • Burano lace: Produced by the historic Martina Vidal Venezia for four generations.

"Returning to Venice and experiencing the emotions of this place and the artists who have enriched it is exhilarating," says Tiziano Guardini. "It's a work based on volumes, shapes, three-dimensionality, colours and materials research… from Mariano Fortuny to the Ottoman Empire's Turcherie."

Illustrator Ascari adds, "I started with a careful study of the works of Canaletto, Guardi and Bellotto, masterpieces of Eighteenth-Century Vedutismo. I portrayed new perspectives on the city's splendour, enhanced by Guardini's vibrant shapes and color choices."

The project "A Dress For Venice" get on the Red Carpet at the Venice Film Festival to advocate for sustainability. September 7th, actress Margot Sikabonyi will wear a dress from the collection designed by conscious designer Tiziano Guardini, illustrated by artist Jacopo Ascari, and produced by Martina Vidal Venezia, with the following materials:

  • Bemberg™: The innovative and biodegradable fiber from the Japanese company Asahi Kasei.
  • Burano lace: Produced by the historic Martina Vidal Venezia for four generations.

"Returning to Venice and experiencing the emotions of this place and the artists who have enriched it is exhilarating," says Tiziano Guardini. "It's a work based on volumes, shapes, three-dimensionality, colours and materials research… from Mariano Fortuny to the Ottoman Empire's Turcherie."

Illustrator Ascari adds, "I started with a careful study of the works of Canaletto, Guardi and Bellotto, masterpieces of Eighteenth-Century Vedutismo. I portrayed new perspectives on the city's splendour, enhanced by Guardini's vibrant shapes and color choices."

On Thursday, September 7th, at 12:30, in the Veneto Region's room at the Hotel Excelsior on Lido, Elena Donazzan, Councilor for Education, Training, Employment, and Equal Opportunities, will present the project alongside its creators Laura Scarpa and Lorenzo Cinotti of Venezia da Vivere, designer Tiziano Guardini, artist Jacopo Ascari, and actress Margot Sikabonyi.

"We conceived A Dress For Venice for Homo Faber in 2019, to celebrate Venice's 1600 years of craftsmanship," explains Laura Scarpa. "This year, the research extends to sustainable innovation thanks to an international team of designers, artisans and companies," continues Lorenzo Cinotti.

The project reaffirms Venice's role as an international laboratory to reflect on the planet's future. "A Dress For Venice" is a limited-edition collection realized with the support of a network of companies identified by the Tavolo Veneto della Moda (Confartigianato, CNA, Confindustria, Confesercenti and Confcommercio of Veneto), the global platform C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy), the partnership of Camera Buyer Italia and the media partnership of The Italian Rêve.

The presentation of the collection to buyers will take place at the Marina Guidi showroom in mid-September, while it will have its dedicated exhibition on Friday, October 20th, during the Venice Fashion Week.

"A Dress for Venice" is endorsed by the Comune di Venezia, the Regione del Veneto, and Homo Faber - Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte, which promotes worldwide high craftsmanship and savoir-faire.

Partners in the project Infinity srl and Tessitura Grisotto, renowned Italian textile manufacturers who expertly craft Bemberg™ fiber into exquisite fabrics. Creazioni Digitali, a specialized company in sublimation digital printing, carries out the prints on Bemberg™ textiles with its unique project GreenDrop; with inks that reduces the water consumption.

Other partners include Marina Iremonger, Camera Buyer Italia, and the Tavolo Veneto della Moda, representing Confartigianato, CNA, Confindustria, Confcommercio, and Confesercenti.

More information:
Venice Asahi Kasei Bemberg™
Source:

C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub

(c) Eastman Naia
03.08.2023

Yarn made with Naia™ fibers standing for sustainability and style

The priority of sweater manufacturers has always been to select ingredients and fibers that are soft, hypoallergenic, and of the finest quality to meet consumer expectations that their sweaters are comfortable yet durable and easy to care for. According to the recent Eastman consumer study of sweater lovers, the sweaters consumers want to add to their wardrobes are soft, comfortable, stylish, and versatile. However, consumers are very disappointed when their sweaters look and feel differently after wearing and washing. Choosing fibers and materials that deliver comfort, quality and ease of care is essential to win with consumers. Today, these are compounded by the ever-present consumer demand for a sustainable paradigm. The promise of Naia™ from Eastman is exactly to make sustainable style accessible to brands and inclusive for everyone through a portfolio of fibers that doesn’t compromise on quality, comfort, or garment care.

The priority of sweater manufacturers has always been to select ingredients and fibers that are soft, hypoallergenic, and of the finest quality to meet consumer expectations that their sweaters are comfortable yet durable and easy to care for. According to the recent Eastman consumer study of sweater lovers, the sweaters consumers want to add to their wardrobes are soft, comfortable, stylish, and versatile. However, consumers are very disappointed when their sweaters look and feel differently after wearing and washing. Choosing fibers and materials that deliver comfort, quality and ease of care is essential to win with consumers. Today, these are compounded by the ever-present consumer demand for a sustainable paradigm. The promise of Naia™ from Eastman is exactly to make sustainable style accessible to brands and inclusive for everyone through a portfolio of fibers that doesn’t compromise on quality, comfort, or garment care.

The results of soft and cozy blends between the versatile Naia™ fibers and other materials can be appreciated in the collections of Naadam and The Gap, which this year presented its third collection of men's sweaters blended with Naia™ and cotton. By using Naia™ blended knits in their collections, brands are not just choosing a sustainable ingredient, but also a certified and circular supply chain: all Naia™ cellulosic fiber is produced in a safe, closed-loop process where solvents are recycled back into the system for reuse. Eastman Naia™ partners with Textiles Genesis to provide track and trace solutions for brands. All Naia™ fibers are OEKO-TEX™ STANDARD 100 certified, ensuring no use of hazardous chemicals, and certified by TÜV AUSTRIA as biodegradable and compostable, also in the ocean, as supported by a recently published ocean degradation study conducted by Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI).

Naia™ fibers are designed to create unlimited possibilities for uncompromising, sustainable style: among these, Naia™ Renew staple fiber permits to create eco-conscious blends that are supremely soft, quick-drying and consistently reduce pilling which are ideal for T-shirts, casual wear, sweaters, comfy pants and home textiles. Produced from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% certified* recycled waste materials, Naia™ Renew creates the same top-quality fabrics as traditional Naia™ fibers, but with a reduced carbon footprint of around 35% — and it’s available at scale. The innovative cellulosic acetate materials can be blended with cotton, modal, merino wool, recycled polyester, or multiple content fancy yarns. Naia™ blended yarns deliver super softness for supreme wearing comfort in knitwear, and sweaters made with Naia™ Renew can have good dimensional stability and shape retention even after multiple washes. Versatile Naia™ denier sizes can be used in different yarn spinning processes, giving the yarn spinners freedom of creativity for trendy yarn designs perfect for year-round basic sweaters with good quality and a durable look. The unique cross section of Naia™ staple fibers enables designs that accommodate four seasons of wearing comfort.

 

Source:

Menabo for Eastman

(c) Premium Exhibitions GmbH
19.04.2023

PREMIUM and SEEK redefine "trade fairs" - FEEL CONNECTED AGAIN

With its new Trend and Event Platform, the Premium Group presents a new concept for a progressive community. According to Premium Group classic trade fair formats are over - this summer it's all about (re)connection, real emotions and new perspectives. The emphasis lies on the most relevant trends and the power of networking, but in a more personalised and intimate way.

With its new Trend and Event Platform, the Premium Group presents a new concept for a progressive community. According to Premium Group classic trade fair formats are over - this summer it's all about (re)connection, real emotions and new perspectives. The emphasis lies on the most relevant trends and the power of networking, but in a more personalised and intimate way.

PREMIUM and SEEK are focusing on a more rigorous curation of promising brands and collections as well as various opportunities to connect. An extensive content programme of keynotes, round tables, live interviews, study presentations and panels on the most important trends will offer two diverse and time-efficient days. The areas of concentration encompass sustainability, technology, fashion, business, lifestyle, and beauty. The repertoire of topics include marketing themes such as LinkedIn and Tik Tok, new tech tools such as ChatGPT or Virtual Dressing as well as news from the metaverse. Sustainability topics such as denim, circularity, re-commerce, vintage and the new Green Deal laws will be discussed as well as cross-industry topics such as female empowerment, Gen Z and modern leadership.
     
PREMIUM marks the first event of the season for womenswear. New silhouettes, design trends, provocation and the current zeitgeist are brought to the forefront with a carefully curated selection of brands. The fashion scene and visitors can look forward to the best of denim, hyper-femininity, beauty, well-being, future Berlin icons and innovations from the tech and lifestyle sphere. New talents will also have the opportunity to pitch their labels to a professional audience. SEEK focuses on heritage, Y2K, modern sportswear, outdoor and sustainable brands, which will be shown in the CONSCIOUS CLUB. Other highlights will include talks and inspiring activations from the community.

"We listen, research and curate the most important trends for the industry. To do this, our team of experts travels across Europe and exchange ideas with representatives from the entire industry. The results of months of work can be discovered in two days," says Maren Wiebus, Creative Director of the Premium Group.

Today, attention is the most important currency for the fashion industry. This is also why, for the very first time ever, the Premium Group events will take place over only two days instead of three. At the same time, generally accepted norms and rules are questioned, taken apart, and put back together again. The organisers of Premium Group invite fashion professionals to discuss the rules and redefine them together.
 
The summer editions of PREMIUM and SEEK will take place on 11 and 12 July at the new old location Station-Berlin in the heart of Berlin.

Source:

Premium Exhibitions GmbH

(c) Hohenstein
15.03.2023

Hohenstein: First 3D measurement study to improve garment sizing for children

Garment fitting pioneer Hohenstein has conducted the first ever measurement series on babies and toddlers. The data will aid the pattern development and fit assessment that is particularly challenging for children's clothing. The new database will help brands and manufacturers design their children's clothing in an accurate, efficient and more sustainable way using fit testing and pattern optimisation.

Hohenstein has been taking body measurements for all target groups since 1957. Based on regular serial measurements taken with 3D body scans over 20 years, data is continuously updated. With the measurement of toddlers and babies, Hohenstein is now closing a large gap in the German market for the first time. 5626 girls and boys in sizes 56 to 182 were measured. This means that 3D scans of infants are available for the first time. The 3D body data form an indispensable basis for customer-specific measurement tables, child-friendly patterns and gradings, optimal fits as well as 3D children's avatars for the simulation of clothing.

Garment fitting pioneer Hohenstein has conducted the first ever measurement series on babies and toddlers. The data will aid the pattern development and fit assessment that is particularly challenging for children's clothing. The new database will help brands and manufacturers design their children's clothing in an accurate, efficient and more sustainable way using fit testing and pattern optimisation.

Hohenstein has been taking body measurements for all target groups since 1957. Based on regular serial measurements taken with 3D body scans over 20 years, data is continuously updated. With the measurement of toddlers and babies, Hohenstein is now closing a large gap in the German market for the first time. 5626 girls and boys in sizes 56 to 182 were measured. This means that 3D scans of infants are available for the first time. The 3D body data form an indispensable basis for customer-specific measurement tables, child-friendly patterns and gradings, optimal fits as well as 3D children's avatars for the simulation of clothing.

Hohenstein offers a wide range of tests for safe children's clothing from a single source. In addition to fit and pattern, Hohenstein carries out risk assessments and safety tests for children's clothing (e.g. cords according to DIN EN 13682), UV protection according to different standards, tests for harmful substances according to OEKO-TEX®, among others. Toy testing is also part of the portfolio.

Source:

Hohenstein

Texaid
02.03.2023

New project “Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock”

Textile waste is a problem in Europe. Out of 7-7.5 million tonnes of textiles discarded every year, 30-35 % are collected separately – and of that quantity, 15-20 % are sorted by medium and larger sorting facilities within the EU. After sorting, 60 % still qualify as wearable clothes, however after a second or third collection-loop, all of the textiles become non-wearable sooner or later. Therefore, fibre-to-fibre recycling is becoming increasingly important to preserve the valuable resources.
 
The textile recycling value chain is not yet mature, but we are on the verge of a turning point, as different fibre-recycling technologies are deployed on a large scale. If successful, the textile recycling industry could reach a recycling rate of 18 to 26 percent of gross textile waste in 2030. This would create economic, social and environmental value that could total 3.5 to 4.5 billion euros in 2030.

Textile waste is a problem in Europe. Out of 7-7.5 million tonnes of textiles discarded every year, 30-35 % are collected separately – and of that quantity, 15-20 % are sorted by medium and larger sorting facilities within the EU. After sorting, 60 % still qualify as wearable clothes, however after a second or third collection-loop, all of the textiles become non-wearable sooner or later. Therefore, fibre-to-fibre recycling is becoming increasingly important to preserve the valuable resources.
 
The textile recycling value chain is not yet mature, but we are on the verge of a turning point, as different fibre-recycling technologies are deployed on a large scale. If successful, the textile recycling industry could reach a recycling rate of 18 to 26 percent of gross textile waste in 2030. This would create economic, social and environmental value that could total 3.5 to 4.5 billion euros in 2030.

Today, there is a sorting gap to achieve a circular economy for textiles in Europe. To feed this new circular value chain, a significant sorting-capacity increase is needed with 150 to 250 sorting and recycling facilities nearby, as the McKinsey-study “turning waste into value” assessed.

There is also a technology and capacity gap in sorting for reuse and recycling to ensure that high quality raw materials from non-wearable textile waste can be made available on a large scale. This is why the “Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock” project was initiated by TEXAID, within the ReHubs initiative together with well-known stakeholders of the textile value chain.

The major outcome of this project will be a sorting-factory blueprint fulfilling the requirements to the future needs of fibre-to-fibre recycling, enabling the future of more sustainable textiles by using recycled fibres. TEXAID, who is leading the project, is committed to build and operate scalable sorting facilities across Europe, the first with a capacity of 50,000 tonnes by the end of 2024.

Companies like Concordia, CuRe Technology, Decathlon, Inditex, Indorama Ventures, L’Atelier des Matières, Lenzing, Marchi & Fildi, PurFi, Södra, Worn Again and others are taking part in the project to jointly evaluate technologies and the business case for scaled sorting for reuse and recycling. ITA Academy GmbH (in cooperation with RWTH Aachen) together with CETIA has been commissioned for the assessment of technologies. The outcome will be an innovative sorting system 4.0, building on cross-functional technologies with digitalization and automation are at the heart.

21.02.2023

Polartec®: New technology reduces fiber fragmentation in laundering tests

  • Iconic 200 Series fleece to be the first fabric made from this new process.

Polartec®, a Milliken & Company brand, announces Polartec® Shed Less Fleece, a new milestone in its industry-leading efforts to reduce textile fiber fragment shedding. Shed Less is a process that combines yarn construction, knitting, chemistry, and manufacturing to reduce home laundry fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85%. The first fabric to receive this new technology is the brand’s iconic Polartec® 200 Series Fleece, the modern version of the original PolarFleece® launched in 1981, and in 1993, the first performance fleece knit from yarn made from recycled plastic bottles.

The Shed Less process works by engineering the lofted fibers that give fleece its soft hand the ability to resist breaking and rubbing off during home laundering, cited as one contributing factor to the spread of fibers fragments (commonly referred to as microfibers). Polartec® Shed Less Fleece achieves this while maintaining all of the attributes that continue to make Polartec fleece a staple of midlayer collections - lightweight, breathable and warm.

  • Iconic 200 Series fleece to be the first fabric made from this new process.

Polartec®, a Milliken & Company brand, announces Polartec® Shed Less Fleece, a new milestone in its industry-leading efforts to reduce textile fiber fragment shedding. Shed Less is a process that combines yarn construction, knitting, chemistry, and manufacturing to reduce home laundry fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85%. The first fabric to receive this new technology is the brand’s iconic Polartec® 200 Series Fleece, the modern version of the original PolarFleece® launched in 1981, and in 1993, the first performance fleece knit from yarn made from recycled plastic bottles.

The Shed Less process works by engineering the lofted fibers that give fleece its soft hand the ability to resist breaking and rubbing off during home laundering, cited as one contributing factor to the spread of fibers fragments (commonly referred to as microfibers). Polartec® Shed Less Fleece achieves this while maintaining all of the attributes that continue to make Polartec fleece a staple of midlayer collections - lightweight, breathable and warm.

The brand used the AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) TM212-2021 test method for fiber fragment release during home laundering. This test was conducted with large sample sizes to account for variability. The testing concluded that Shed Less Fleece reduced fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85% compared to the baseline fabric.

“In 2016 we began looking into how we might test for fiber loss because there wasn’t a lot of research on the issue.” said Aimee LaValley, Polartec Textile Development, Dye and Chemistry Manager. “This led to new products like Polartec Power Air™, new manufacturing processes, as well as our participation in the TextileMission workgroup to study the issue on an interdisciplinary basis.”

TextileMission was a three year collaborative initiative of academia and industry to reduce the impact of textile microplastics funded by the German Federal Ministry of Education and Research. Founding partners include The Association of the German Sporting Goods Industry, Hochschule Niederrhein - University of Applied Science; TU Dresden - Institute of Water Chemistry; Vaude Sport; WWF Germany; Adidas AG; Henkel AG; Miele & CIE; and Polartec, LLC.

Polartec® Shed Less Fleece will be initially launched in the United States and will be available to customers beginning March 1, 2023. The brand plans to apply the Shed Less process to many other industry-leading fabric platforms and manufacturing facilities around the world.

27.06.2022

Transforming textile waste into feedstock

Europe has a 7-7.5-million-ton waste problem, of which only 30-35% is collected today. The ReHubs initiative launched in 2020 has now completed a Techno Economic Master Study (TES) and it sheds light on key figures and options to collaborate to solve the European waste problem.

In two and a half year all EU member states are obliged to separately collect textile waste. Currently there are no large-scaled plans to use that waste.  The largest portion of the waste (around 85%) comes from households.

Europe has a 7-7.5-million-ton waste problem, of which only 30-35% is collected today. The ReHubs initiative launched in 2020 has now completed a Techno Economic Master Study (TES) and it sheds light on key figures and options to collaborate to solve the European waste problem.

In two and a half year all EU member states are obliged to separately collect textile waste. Currently there are no large-scaled plans to use that waste.  The largest portion of the waste (around 85%) comes from households.

The ReHubs initiative brings together key European and world players to solve the textile waste problem by transforming “waste” into a resource and to boost textile circular business models at large scale. The completed TES has accessed critical information on solving the European waste problem. It is estimated that to reach a collection rate from 18 to 26 percent by 2030, 7 billion euro will be needed. Once matured and scaled, the textile recycling industry could become a profitable industry with a total market size of 6-8 billion € and around 15,000 direct new jobs by 2030. As a first step the ReHubs Initiative announces different actions forwards, including projects on this pathway, which one is to transform textile waste into feedstock.

TEXAID has been supporting ReHubs since the start and contributed significantly involved to the Business Council and the Steering Committee of the initiative. As strongly committed industry leader TEXAID is taking the lead on the project to transform textile waste into feedstock for recycling processes. In order to handle the increasing quantities of post-consumer textile waste a massive scale up of sorting and preparation for recycling of used textiles is needed. TEXAID is committed to lead the work on developing new technologies and building up additional capacities for the handling and preparing of textile waste for textile recycling in Europe. In a first phase this involves the built up of a new sorting and pre-processing facility with the capacity of 50’00 tons p.a. by 2024.

More information:
ReHubs Texaid
Source:

TEXAID

(c) ChemSec, report Not Quite 100%
28.04.2022

ChemSec' Study: Consumer brands demand clarity on recycled plastics

A new interview study from NGO ChemSec shows that there is a gap between supply and demand when it comes to recycled materials, causing confusion and bottlenecks. Among other things, suppliers go out of their way using elaborate trade schemes to reach the coveted ”100% recycled” tag, which – it turns out – is not that important to consumer product brands. Far more crucial aspects, according to several major B2C companies, are:

  • Honest communication towards customers
  • Comprehensive information from suppliers
  • Clear standards for recycled material

These are some of the conclusions from NGO ChemSec’s survey and interview study with 26 highly well-known consumer product brands. All brands responded to a survey concerning their current plastic use, as well as their needs, expectations and challenges regarding using more recycled material, to enable the shift to a circular economy for plastics.

Ten of the brands then participated in in-depth interviews on the same topics:, Essity, H&M, IKEA, Inditex , Lego, Mars,  SC Johnson, Tarkett, Unilever and Walgreens Boots Alliance.

A new interview study from NGO ChemSec shows that there is a gap between supply and demand when it comes to recycled materials, causing confusion and bottlenecks. Among other things, suppliers go out of their way using elaborate trade schemes to reach the coveted ”100% recycled” tag, which – it turns out – is not that important to consumer product brands. Far more crucial aspects, according to several major B2C companies, are:

  • Honest communication towards customers
  • Comprehensive information from suppliers
  • Clear standards for recycled material

These are some of the conclusions from NGO ChemSec’s survey and interview study with 26 highly well-known consumer product brands. All brands responded to a survey concerning their current plastic use, as well as their needs, expectations and challenges regarding using more recycled material, to enable the shift to a circular economy for plastics.

Ten of the brands then participated in in-depth interviews on the same topics:, Essity, H&M, IKEA, Inditex , Lego, Mars,  SC Johnson, Tarkett, Unilever and Walgreens Boots Alliance.

Is non-mechanical recycling the answer?
Only about ten percent of all discarded plastics is recycled today, which is of course not nearly enough to achieve a circular plastics economy. Despite ambitions and initiatives to reduce plastics use – replacing the materials with other, more sustainable ones – the “plastic tap” is not expected to be turned off anytime soon. Quite the opposite, which makes raising the recycling rates more important than ever.

Although commercially viable, traditional (mechanical) recycling is afflicted with severe flaws, such as legacy chemicals, quality and functionality issues, as well as the lack of clean and sorted waste streams. The brands cited quality and functionality issues as the main obstacles for using more recycled material in their products.

This opens up for non-mechanical recycling, sometimes referred to as chemical recycling, where the plastic is either dissolved or broken down into smaller building blocks. Harmful additives and other hazardous chemicals can be removed in the process, and a material comparable to virgin plastic can be achieved – at least in theory.

So far, however, non-mechanical recycling technologies are costly, energy-intensive, and often require the addition of a great deal of virgin plastic to work – the very material that needs to be phased out.

The chain of custody models needs to be detangled
Apart from these production issues, there is a wide range of chain of custody models surrounding non-mechanical recycling, including mass balance and book & claim, which enable trade of credits or certificates for recycled material.

This cuts the physical connection between input and output, making it possible for a supplier to sell a material as “100% recycled”, when the actual recycled content could be zero.

This is a major issue for the brands ChemSec has spoken to, who value honest and correct communication towards customers. It turns out, perhaps somewhat surprisingly, that being able to slap a “made from 100% recycled plastic” label on a product is not all that important to brands.

To the brands, a physical connection between input (the discarded plastic waste headed for recycling) and output (the product at least partially made from recycled plastics) is far more important.

A physical connection, along with correct and adequate information from suppliers, as well as clearer standards and guidelines than what is available today, is what brands require to increase the use of recycled material and move us closer to a circular economy for plastics.

More information:
ChemSec plastics Recycling
Source:

ChemSec

DNFI: Microplastic pollution is a global challenge Photo: pixabay
10.12.2021

DNFI: Microplastic pollution is a global challenge

Microplastic pollution is a global challenge across many industries and sectors – one of critical importance being textiles.

A 2021 study by the California Ocean Science Trust and a group of interdisciplinary scientists acknowledges that microfibres from textiles are among the most common microplastic materials found in the marine environment. Every time synthetic clothes are manufactured, worn, washed, or disposed of, they release microplastics into terrestrial and marine environments, including human food chains. Synthetic fibres represent over two-thirds (69%) of all materials used in textiles, a proportion that is expected to rise to 73% by 2030. The production of synthetic fibres has fuelled a 40-year trend of increased per capita clothing consumption.

Global textile consumption has become:

Microplastic pollution is a global challenge across many industries and sectors – one of critical importance being textiles.

A 2021 study by the California Ocean Science Trust and a group of interdisciplinary scientists acknowledges that microfibres from textiles are among the most common microplastic materials found in the marine environment. Every time synthetic clothes are manufactured, worn, washed, or disposed of, they release microplastics into terrestrial and marine environments, including human food chains. Synthetic fibres represent over two-thirds (69%) of all materials used in textiles, a proportion that is expected to rise to 73% by 2030. The production of synthetic fibres has fuelled a 40-year trend of increased per capita clothing consumption.

Global textile consumption has become:

  • more reliant on non-renewable resources,
  • less biodegradable, and
  • increasingly prone to releasing microplastics.

The increased consumption is also discretionary, driven by consumer desire and remains unchecked. Thus, the long-term trend in the textile industry parallels the intentional addition of microplastics to products such as cosmetics. The contrast is that the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has recommended such intentional additions be restricted, whereas the over-consumption of synthetic fibres continues unchecked. One way for the EU to account for and mitigate microplastic pollution is through an EU-backed methodology measuring and reporting microplastic emissions, so that consumers and procurement officers have the information needed to minimise microplastic pollution resulting from their purchasing decisions.

There is a critical opportunity to address microplastic pollution in the fashion textile industry through the EU Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) methodology. To meet the environmental objectives of the Circular Economy Action Plan, the EU is proposing that companies substantiate their products’ environmental credentials using this harmonised methodology. However, microplastic pollution is not accounted for in the PEF methodology. This omission has the effect of assigning a zero score to microplastic pollution and would undermine the efforts of the European Green Deal, which aim “to address the unintentional release of microplastics in the environment.”

The incorporation of microplastic pollution as an indicator would increase the legitimacy of the PEF method as well as better inform consumer purchasing decisions, especially as the European Green Deal seeks to “further develop and harmonise methods for measuring unintentionally released microplastics, especially from tyres and textiles, and delivering harmonised data on microplastics concentrations in seawater.”

Whilst we continue to learn about the damage of microplastics and there is new knowledge emerging on the toxic impacts along the food chain, there is sufficient information on the rate of microplastic leakage into the environment to implement a basic, inventory level indicator in the PEF now. This is consistent with the recommendations of a review of microplastic pollution originating from the life cycle of apparel and home textiles. There are precedents in PEF for basic level (e.g., ‘resource use, fossils’) and largely untested (e.g. land occupation and toxicity indicators) indicators, and therefore an opportunity for the EU to promote research and development in the measurement and modelling of microplastic pollution by including such emissions in the PEF methodology. For such an indicator, the long and complex supply chains of the apparel and footwear industry would be a test case with high-impact and a global reach.

Source:

DNFI / IWTO – 2021

With the "SmartTex" shirt, astronauts can wear the necessary sensors comfortably on their bodies. © DLR
SmartTex Shirt
27.10.2021

Research for cosmic missions: SmartTex provides data on vital functions

It looks like a normal shirt, but it has it all: The new SmartTex shirt uses integrated sensors to transfer physiological data from astronauts to Earth via a wireless communication network. In this way, the effects of the space environment on the human cardiovascular system will be evaluated and documented, especially with regard to long-term manned space missions. Developed by the German Aerospace Center (DLR) in cooperation with DSI Aerospace Technology, the Medical Faculty of Bielefeld University and textile research partner Hohenstein, SmartTex will be tested for the first time as part of the Wireless Compose-2 (WICO2) project by German ESA astronaut Dr. Matthias Maurer, who will leave for his ‘Cosmic Kiss’ mission on the International Space Station (ISS) for six months on October 30, 2021.

It looks like a normal shirt, but it has it all: The new SmartTex shirt uses integrated sensors to transfer physiological data from astronauts to Earth via a wireless communication network. In this way, the effects of the space environment on the human cardiovascular system will be evaluated and documented, especially with regard to long-term manned space missions. Developed by the German Aerospace Center (DLR) in cooperation with DSI Aerospace Technology, the Medical Faculty of Bielefeld University and textile research partner Hohenstein, SmartTex will be tested for the first time as part of the Wireless Compose-2 (WICO2) project by German ESA astronaut Dr. Matthias Maurer, who will leave for his ‘Cosmic Kiss’ mission on the International Space Station (ISS) for six months on October 30, 2021.

"We were already able to gain valuable insights into the interaction of the body, clothing and climate under microgravity conditions during the previous projects Spacetex (2014) and Spacetex2 (2018)," explains Hohenstein Senior Scientific Expert Dr. Jan Beringer. The insights provided at the time by the mission of ESA astronaut Dr. Alexander Gerst have now been directly incorporated into the development of the new SmartTex shirt at Hohenstein. "Matthias Maurer can wear his tailor-made shirt comfortably on his body during his everyday work on the International Space Station. For this, we used his body measurements as the basis for our cut development and the production of the shirt. We integrated the necessary sensors as well as data processing and communication modules into the shirt's cut in such a way that they interfere as little as possible and are always positioned in the right place, regardless of the wearing situation. This is the prerequisite for reliably measuring the relevant physiological data." The SmartTex shirt is intended to provide a continuous picture of the vital functions of astronauts. This will be particularly relevant for future long-term manned space missions to the Moon and Mars.

For example, during the BEAT experiment (Ballistocardiography for Extraterrestrial Applications and long-Term missions), Matthias Maurer will be the first astronaut to wear a T-shirt equipped with sensors that measure his ballistocardiographic data such as pulse and relative blood pressure. For this purpose, the sensors were calibrated in the :envihab research facility at the DLR Institute of Aerospace Medicine in Cologne. Details on the contraction rate and opening and closing times of the heart valves, which are normally only accessible via sonography or computer tomography, can also be read from the data material. The goal is to study the effects of the space environment on the human cardiovascular system. To be able to analyse these effects realistically, Matthias Maurer's ballistocardiographic data will be recorded before, during and after his stay on the ISS. For the future, a technology transfer of the SmartTex shirt for application in the field of fitness or even in telemedicine is conceivable.

Wireless Compose-2 (WICO2)
The project was planned and prepared by the German Aerospace Center (DLR) and its cooperation partners DSI Aerospace Technology, Hohenstein and the University of Bielefeld. The wireless communication network reads sensor data and can determine the position of people and objects in space by propagation times of radio pulses. It is also available as a platform for several experiments on the ISS. The determined data is temporarily stored within the network and read out at regular intervals by the astronauts. These data packets are then transferred to Earth via the ISS link and analysed by the research teams. It can generate its own energy from artificial light sources via solar cells.

 

 

ESA astronaut Dr. Matthias Maurer in summer 2021 during preliminary talks on the Cosmic Kiss mission in DLR's :envihab in Cologne. © DLR


Sensors measure physiological data during a test run on Earth. © DLR


With the "SmartTex" shirt, astronauts can wear the necessary sensors comfortably on their bodies. © DLR

Dr. Jan Beringer, Hohenstein Senior Scientific Expert. © Hohenstein

Ascend Performance Materials, APMPR063 ©Ascend Performance Materials
SARS-CoV-2, Influenza A inactivated by zinc-embedded nylon fabric.
22.09.2021

SARS-CoV-2, Influenza A inactivated by zinc-embedded nylon fabric

  • A paper published in ACS Applied Materials Interfaces details effectiveness, describes protocol for future testing

An international team of scientists and engineers from the University of Cambridge, the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, ResInnova Labs and Ascend Performance Materials has found that a nylon fabric embedded with zinc ions successfully inactivated 99% of the viruses that cause COVID-19 and the common flu.

Face masks, protective clothing and filters are used to slow the spread of viruses. But poor-quality masks can harbor active viruses from infected wearers, posing a transmission risk.

“A major challenge is absorption and inactivation,” said Vikram Gopal, Ph.D., co-senior author and chief technology officer at Ascend Performance Materials. “Respiratory viral illnesses, such as COVID-19, and the flu, are transmitted through droplets and aerosols. Polypropylene, the material in commonly used disposable masks, is a hydrophobic plastic and does not absorb moisture. Instead, the viruses can sit on the surface of the mask, posing a transmission risk when the mask is handled.”

  • A paper published in ACS Applied Materials Interfaces details effectiveness, describes protocol for future testing

An international team of scientists and engineers from the University of Cambridge, the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, ResInnova Labs and Ascend Performance Materials has found that a nylon fabric embedded with zinc ions successfully inactivated 99% of the viruses that cause COVID-19 and the common flu.

Face masks, protective clothing and filters are used to slow the spread of viruses. But poor-quality masks can harbor active viruses from infected wearers, posing a transmission risk.

“A major challenge is absorption and inactivation,” said Vikram Gopal, Ph.D., co-senior author and chief technology officer at Ascend Performance Materials. “Respiratory viral illnesses, such as COVID-19, and the flu, are transmitted through droplets and aerosols. Polypropylene, the material in commonly used disposable masks, is a hydrophobic plastic and does not absorb moisture. Instead, the viruses can sit on the surface of the mask, posing a transmission risk when the mask is handled.”

Cotton also has problems, Dr. Gopal said. “Cotton effectively absorbs moisture, but it doesn’t inactivate the virus – again, posing a transmission risk,” he said. In the paper published in ACS Applied Materials Interfaces, the researchers described how a fabric made of nylon 6,6 embedded with active zinc ions absorbed virus-containing moisture droplets and effectively inactivated the particles. The fabric produced a 2-log, or 99%, reduction of virus particles in one hour.

The research team also was able to demonstrate that nylon with active zinc ions remains stable over time, keeping its virus-inactivating properties after 50 washes. “The study shows how nylon textile fabric with zinc outperforms the widely used cotton and polypropylene materials at virus absorption and inactivation,” Dr. Gopal said. The findings have significant implications for future development of PPE, Dr. Gopal said. “Pathogen-free PPE does more than just cut down the risk of transmitting the virus,” Gopal said. “By making PPE washable and reusable, you reduce the need for single-use products, keeping hundreds of millions of masks out of landfills.”

RUDOLF GROUP: Bio-Based DWR Performance from Natural Sources (c)RUDOLF GROUP
It makes sense and it’s logic. It’s BIO-LOGIC
13.01.2021

RUDOLF GROUP: Bio-Based DWR Performance from Natural Sources

The RUDOLF GROUP is an uncontested agent of positive change especially when it comes to pioneering technologies that help transforming the textile and fashion industries. A shining example of conscious leadership played by the RUDOLF GROUP over the past decades is the invention and introduction of fluorine-free Durable Water Repellency (DWR) for textile and apparel. Since 2003, the RUCO-DRY product line has gradually convinced the industry that water-resistance can be achieved through the study and replica of natural models. “Biomimicry and the study of lotus leaves and bird’s feathers were instrumental in developing the very first fluorine-free DWR’s” says Dr. Gunther Duschek, Managing Director at RUDOLF GROUP.

Fifteen years later, RUDOLF GROUP does it again and takes a significant leapfrog. It pushes the boundaries of R&D well beyond fluorine-free, embraces nature and introduces water repellent performance entirely based on natural components. “We are launching two brand new, distinctive product propositions entirely manufactured from natural sources that do not compete with human and/or animal nutrition” continues Dr. Duschek.

The RUDOLF GROUP is an uncontested agent of positive change especially when it comes to pioneering technologies that help transforming the textile and fashion industries. A shining example of conscious leadership played by the RUDOLF GROUP over the past decades is the invention and introduction of fluorine-free Durable Water Repellency (DWR) for textile and apparel. Since 2003, the RUCO-DRY product line has gradually convinced the industry that water-resistance can be achieved through the study and replica of natural models. “Biomimicry and the study of lotus leaves and bird’s feathers were instrumental in developing the very first fluorine-free DWR’s” says Dr. Gunther Duschek, Managing Director at RUDOLF GROUP.

Fifteen years later, RUDOLF GROUP does it again and takes a significant leapfrog. It pushes the boundaries of R&D well beyond fluorine-free, embraces nature and introduces water repellent performance entirely based on natural components. “We are launching two brand new, distinctive product propositions entirely manufactured from natural sources that do not compete with human and/or animal nutrition” continues Dr. Duschek.

RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR is an absolute breakthrough and the first Durable Water Repellent (DWR) agent based on plant-derived processing wastes. In fact, RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR is made of natural waste that accumulates as by-product during the processing of cereal grains in the food industry. The leftover material that would otherwise be disposed of is refined to create a powerful water and stain repellent textile finish.

“By turning natural waste into DWR we have optimized the biologic character of RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR where the active component is made of more than 90% bio carbon” states Dr. Dirk Sielemann, R&D Director at RUDOLF GROUP. He continues: “Although most of the product is composed by recycled biomass, RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR meets the performance and durability of conventional water repellent textile finishes”.

RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE is an equally outstanding product innovation where DWR is entirely based on a carefully selected mix of natural plant extracts. The well-balanced mix of plant-based ingredients combines excellent water and stain repellent effects with breathability and a natural handfeel. 

Unlike other 100% renewable raw materials, those used in the making of RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE are chemically and genetically non-modified and are not used as food, feed or fuel. Furthermore, all of the plant extracts that compose RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE are subject to a strict conservation and sustainability framework. “That’s why the supply of RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE is likely to remain limited to the creation and marketing of performance outdoor and sports apparel programs embedding state-of-the-art sustainable technology” concludes Dr. Duschek.

Both RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR and RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE are marketed through the BIO-LOGIC trademark, registered by RUDOLF GROUP.

 CAALO SS2020 collection with Bemberg™ lining (c) CAALO Bemberg™
CAALO SS2020 collection with Bemberg™ lining
29.04.2020

Bemberg™ key-statement for sustainability

  • Bemberg™ presents a great deal of novelties with a true key-statement for sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular!
  • The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber Cupro derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing.


“Sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources”.

In Bemberg™’s production the whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA (Istituto per la Certificazione Etica e Ambientale) and validated by President of Ecoinnovazione Paolo Masoni ex Research Director of ENEA (Ente per le Nuove tecnologie, l’Energia e l’Ambiente).

  • Bemberg™ presents a great deal of novelties with a true key-statement for sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular!
  • The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber Cupro derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing.


“Sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources”.

In Bemberg™’s production the whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA (Istituto per la Certificazione Etica e Ambientale) and validated by President of Ecoinnovazione Paolo Masoni ex Research Director of ENEA (Ente per le Nuove tecnologie, l’Energia e l’Ambiente).

While recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange (an influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns), Bemberg™ yarns are also entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free - meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

A special focus deserves Velutine™ Evo, the new fibrillation finishing technology for Bemberg™ fabrics only that guarantees another level of sustainable benefits without sacrificing the Bemberg™ amazing and unique touch. As part of the company’s continuous innovation, Velutine™ Evo brings better environmental, energy and water profiles for the benefit of Bemberg™ partners in the manufacture of their ranges.
The sustainable achievements of the new finishing technology have been measured by LCA - Life Cycle Assessment study by ICEA and proved to guarantee environmental benefits such as -16.5% of greenhouses gas emissions and -21% of overall consumption of energy resources. On top of that Velutine™ Evo means also -20.5% of electricity savings, -15.9% of steam production and -19.5% of water consumption.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

Bemberg™ collaborated also with the premium brand CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO uses Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it’s unique colour.

CAALO uses as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit. This versatile blazer features a removable hood, hidden welt pockets, button closure, and removable cargo pockets.