From the Sector

• Revenue up 5.7 percent year-on-year to EUR 658.4 million
• EBITDA more than doubles year-on-year to EUR 71.4 million
• Free cash flow of EUR 87.3 million (compared with minus EUR 132.3 million in the first quarter of 2023) and thereby positive for the third consecutive quarter
• Performance program shows positive effect on revenue, EDITDA, and free cash flow
• Lenzing confirms EBITDA guidance for 2024

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose for the textile and nonwovens industries, recorded a further improvement in fiber sales volumes in the first quarter of 2024. An expected recovery in markets relevant for Lenzing has to date failed to materialize. Fiber prices remained at a low level. Although the costs of raw materials and energy continued to decrease, they remained higher than in the pre-crisis 2019 year.

Outlook
Even though the IMF has upgraded its growth forecast for 2024 from 3.1 percent to 3.2 percent, a number of risks remain for the global economy: potential geopolitical shocks, persistently higher inflation and key interest rates, as well as market risks emanating from the Chinese real estate market are currently considered to be the most relevant.

General inflation and falling incomes in real terms are continuing to exert a negative impact on consumer sentiment. A recovery in the consumer clothing market, which is important for Lenzing, will also depend on a further normalization of stock levels.

The currency environment is expected to remain volatile in regions relevant to Lenzing.

In the trend-setting market for cotton, a stable price trend is expected for the 2023/2024 harvest season.

Earnings visibility remains limited overall.

Revenue and earnings in the first quarter exceeded Lenzing’s expectations, despite the persistently difficult market. Lenzing is ahead of schedule with the implementation of its performance program. By appointing a separate Managing Board member, the projects identified to date are to be implemented even more rapidly, and new potentials are to be leveraged. Lenzing expects that these measures will increasingly contribute to further earnings improvement over the coming quarters compared to the first quarter of 2024.

Taking the aforementioned factors into consideration, the Lenzing Group confirms its guidance for the 2024 financial year of year-on-year higher EBITDA.

In structural terms, Lenzing continues to anticipate growth in demand for environmentally responsible fibers for the textile and clothing industry as well as the hygiene and medical sectors. As a consequence, Lenzing is well positioned with its “Better Growth” strategy and plans to continue driving growth with specialty fibers as well as its sustainability goals, including the transformation from a linear to a circular economy model.

Major developments:

• Currency-neutral sales up 8% driven by growth in all regions except North America
• Double-digit DTC growth reflects strong adidas sell-through
• Gross margin improves 6.4pp to 51.2%, reflecting healthier inventory levels, reduced discounting, lower sourcing costs and a more favorable business mix
• Operating profit of € 336 million compared to € 60 million in the prior-year period
• Inventories down more than € 1.2 billion versus the prior year to € 4.4 billion
• Top- and bottom-line guidance upgraded on April 16 due to successful start to the year

Full-year outlook
adidas expects revenues to increase at a mid- to high-single-digit rate in 2024
On April 16, adidas upgraded its full-year financial guidance as a result of the better-than-expected performance in the first quarter. adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues to increase at a mid- to high-single-digit rate in 2024 (previously: increase at a mid-single-digit rate). Within this guidance, it is assumed that the remaining Yeezy inventory will be sold on average at cost, resulting in sales of around € 200 million throughout the remainder of the year. This corresponds to a projected total amount of Yeezy-related sales of around € 350 million in FY 2024 (previously: around € 250 million), of which around € 150 million were generated in the first quarter. For its underlying business, adidas remains focused on scaling its successful franchises, introducing new ones, and leveraging its significantly better, broader, and deeper product range. Improved retailer relationships, more impactful marketing initiatives, and the company’s activities around major sports events are also expected to contribute to sales increases throughout 2024.

Outlook impacted by significant currency headwinds
Unfavorable currency effects are projected to weigh significantly on the company’s profitability in 2024. They are expected to continue to adversely impact both reported revenues and the gross margin development in the remainder of the year.

Operating profit of around € 700 million projected
Following the better-than-expected performance in the first quarter, the company also increased its full-year profit guidance on April 16. The company’s operating profit is now expected to reach a level of around € 700 million (previously: to reach a level of around € 500 million). The improved bottom-line guidance includes a contribution of around € 50 million from Yeezy (previously: no Yeezy contribution) related to the drop in Q1. The sale of the remaining Yeezy inventory is assumed to result in no further profit contribution during the remainder of the year.

Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris opens its doors from 1 to 3 July at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. More than a thousand exhibitors from the world's major sourcing countries will be offering inspirational sources for building collections for 2025-2026. This season's show will focus on suppliers of innovative products and solutions for high-performance and sustainable fashion.

Yarn in the spotlight
Taking us further upstream in the industry and for the first time at the Parisian trade shows, a pavilion featuring yarn producers will be found at the exhibition. Co-organised with Yarn Expo, a Shanghai show in the Messe Frankfurt galaxy, this dedicated pavilion will feature companies from China, India, Pakistan and Taiwan.

A Leather trends area at Leatherworld, partnerships at Avantex
As in previous summers, this season’s show will bring together all the different aspects of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris. Leatherworld, the platform dedicated to leather sourcing, is announcing the return of a South African pavilion. This area will also host a Leather Trends area created and run by Italian publisher Edizioni AF, a specialist in the leather industry. Particular attention will be paid to the design processes and choice of materials used by Italian accessories and footwear manufacturers.

A number of new features are also expected in the Avantex innovations area: Partnerships with the IFA Paris fashion design school, the TCBL association and the TUV Rheinland certification body, which will showcase  solutions in sustainable fashion and textiles, and provide an opportunity to discuss these issues at expert round tables.

Furthermore, the fair will be showcasing Texpertise Econogy, the sustainable economy approach developed by the international Messe Frankfurt group to guide visitors in their sourcing choices. Following its launch in February, the upcoming event will continue to promote sustainability with a number of features and provide a platform for green pioneers.

International technology group ANDRITZ has successfully started up a new nonwovens production line supplied to Teknomelt Teknik Mensucat San. ve Tic. A.S. in Kahramanmaras, Türkiye. The new neXline wetlace CCP (carded-carded-pulp) line produces nonwoven roll goods for biodegradable, plastic-free wet wipes

By combining the benefits of two technologies, spunlace and wetlaid, the line enables the use of bio-based fibers, like viscose and wood pulp, to produce a high-performance and sustainable wipe with the same technical product characteristics and performances as a conventional wipe made of synthetic fibers while protecting the environment.

Teknomelt is one of the leading manufacturers of nonwoven meltblown, spunbond, SMS and SMMS fabrics in Türkiye. The company serves a wide range of markets, exporting 45% of its production. With the new ANDRITZ Wetlace CCP line, the company is expanding its range of sustainable nonwovens production for wipes. 

RadiciGroup announced the launch of the first physical and digital nylon traceability project at Techtextil 2024. A gilet made from the yarn manufactured in one of the Group’s European industrial sites, which, thanks to a QR code on the garment, can reveal its origin and display information about its production process.

Product traceability is a key element in guaranteeing transparency along the entire supply chain, as it means each stage of production – from spinning to weaving and from packaging through to retail – can be monitored and recorded. The project, made possible by a partnership with FibreTrace, allows manufactured nylon yarns to be traced both physically and digitally. In fact, RadiciGroup inserts a tracer (an inorganic additive) that is uniquely associated with the yarn and remains identifiable throughout all stages of processing – on both the fabric and the finished garment. Naturally, the tracer does not alter the esthetical, functional and technical performance of the yarns in any way.

In terms of digital traceability, during the production stages a scanner detects the presence of the tracer and can transmit the data relating to provenance onto a dedicated digital platform. Finally, the consumer, via a QR code, can access the digital platform that provides all information concerning the provenance of the product and its journey through the supply chain.
 
“This project is the result of almost two years’ work by our Research & Development team. We’re very proud to bring to the market the first physical and digital nylon traceability solution and we plan to extend this initiative to other fibres produced by the Group,” emphasised Filippo Bona, R&D Manager of RadiciGroup Advanced Textile Solutions.

Archroma has introduced a new bio-based durable water repellent (DWR) finish that helps mills and brands produce apparel that is soft to the touch and yet offers robust rain and stain protection and an improved sustainability profile.

PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ is designed to provide great water repellence on all kinds of fibers while achieving a soft handle and avoiding undesired effects like yellowing and chalk marking. It performs especially well on synthetic fibers and their blends, making it ideal for apparel, outdoor wear and home textiles.

The new DWR is based on 50% renewable carbon content based on ASTM D6866 and is free of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) and formaldehyde. It is also crosslinker-free, which makes it more flexible in use. While offering good wash durability on its own, PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ can be combined with a crosslinker like ARKOPHOB® NTR-40, which has a biocarbon content of 40%, to further boost wash and/or dry-cleaning resistance.

Sportswear, fashion and home textiles treated with the PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ durable water repellent qualify for the High IQ® Repel assurance program. The High IQ® program assures consumers that these products deliver performance, protection and comfort and meet strict environmental standards.

The next AACHEN-DRESDEN-DENKENDORF INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE CONFERENCE will take place on November 21/22 2024 in Stuttgart on site.  

You are invited to submit abstracts for oral or poster presentations related to the following topics:

• Textile Mechanical Engineering
• Biobased Fibers
• High Performance Fibers
• Fiber Composites and Lightweight Construction
• Circular Economy and Recycling
• Medicine and Health
• Functionalization and Finishing
• Transfer Session “From Idea to Practice”

 
Deadline abstract submission for oral presentations: April 30, 2024
Deadline abstract submission for poster presentations: September 30, 2024

Partner countries for 2024 are Belgium, Netherlands and Luxembourg.

adidas announced preliminary results for the first quarter of 2024. In Q1, currency-neutral revenues increased 8% versus the prior year level. In euro terms, the company’s revenues grew 4% to € 5.458 billion (2023: € 5.274 billion). The company’s gross margin improved 6.4 percentage points to 51.2% during the quarter (2023: 44.8%). Operating profit reached € 336 million in Q1 (2023: € 60 million).

As a result of the better-than-expected performance during the quarter, the company has increased its full-year guidance. adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues to increase at a mid- to high-single-digit rate in 2024 (previously: increase at a mid-single-digit rate). The company’s operating profit is now expected to reach a level of around € 700 million (previously: to reach a level of around € 500 million).  

The latest Yeezy drop generated revenues of around € 150 million and an operating profit of around € 50 million in the first quarter. In its guidance, the company assumes the sale of the remaining Yeezy inventory during the remainder of the year to occur on average at cost. This would result in additional sales of around € 200 million and no further profit contribution during the remainder of the year.

The company continues to expect unfavorable currency effects to weigh significantly on the company’s profitability this year. These effects are projected to continue to negatively impact both reported revenues and the gross margin development in 2024.

The Supervisory Board of Lenzing AG appointed Dr. Walter Bickel as a member of the Managing Board and Chief Transformation Officer of Lenzing AG with effect from April 15, 2024 until December 31, 2025. The experienced manager will strengthen the Lenzing Managing Board and will be responsible for the further development and implementation of the performance program. Lenzing AG’s existing performance program was successfully initiated by the Managing Board in autumn 2023 and focuses on positive free cash flow, strengthened sales and margin growth, and sustainable cost excellence. The appointment of a separate member of the Managing Board for the performance program underlines its importance for the economic recovery of Lenzing AG and will make a significant contribution to achieving the goals. In addition, this ensures that the existing Managing Board can devote all the necessary resources to its core tasks in sales, operations and finances.

Dr. Walter Bickel is an expert in implementing yield increase programs. He has decades of leadership experience in management consulting and in leading positions in industrial companies. As a member of top management, he has successfully supported comprehensive performance programs at companies such as KUKA, Treofan and Syntegon. At Lenzing, Walter Bickel will further advance and accelerate the performance program, which has already made important contributions to improving earnings, and tap into additional performance improvement potential aiming for a significant sustainable increase of Lenzing’s earning power and competitiveness.

Archroma will introduce its new Super Systems+ concept and highlight product innovations at Techtextil 2024, being held in Frankfurt, Germany from April 23 to 26.

A highlight of Archroma’s participation in Techtextil, Super Systems+ are powerful end-to-end systems that combine fiber-specific processing solutions and intelligent effects. The Super Systems+ suite encompasses wet processing solutions that deliver measurable environmental impact from sizing to finishing; durable colors and functional effects that add value and longevity to the end product; and cleaner chemistries that eliminate harmful or regulated substances.

For textile partners to the automotive industry, Archroma is introducing DOROSPERS® KHF, a new range of high-lightfast disperse dyes that provide optimum build up on polyester microfiber, including artificial suede for car interiors.

For nonwoven applications in fields such as healthcare, hygiene and filtration, Archroma recommends APPRETAN® FFX6750, a new addition to its range of high-performance zero-formaldehyde acrylic copolymers, and APPRETAN® FFX1540.

APPRETAN® FFX1540 is a new APEO free and formaldehyde free self-crosslinking polymer, medium soft with very low tackiness, and strongly hydrophobic, developed for the chemical bonding of nonwovens and for the coating of technical textiles, where low water absorption and high-water tightness are required, combined with high durability in severe environment.

For workwear and uniforms that protect people under adverse conditions, Archroma solutions include HELIZARIN® ULTRA-FAST, for printing with pigment dispersions and metallic pigments, and the new ALBAFIX® ECO Plus wet fastness improver. Archroma’s PFC-free PHOBOTEX® R-ACE durable water repellent delivers excellent water repellence while preserving fabric quality and ensuring sustainability. Archroma has also expanded the revolutionary AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT range of resource-saving dyes with new colors.

Further solutions for active wear and workwear include the newly launched bio-based PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 durable water repellent product, which is PFAS free, formaldehyde free and crosslinker free, as well NYLOFIXAN® HFS, a new fixing agent for polyamide and blends that is fully compliant with the latest restrictions on bisphenol compounds.

Archroma is also launching ARKOPHOB® NTR-40 at Techtextil 2024. The company’s first crosslinker with an improved sustainability profile, its monomers are partially derived from renewably sourced, plant-based raw materials. Another new innovation is biocide-free OX20, an odor-neutralizing technology launched by Archroma in partnership with SANITIZED AG.

For home textiles, mills and brands can select ARKOFIX® NZW formaldehyde-free* resin for high whiteness and extraordinary product stability, with no yellowing during storage at elevated temperatures, even over a prolonged period of time. For a super-soft handle, the SILIGEN® EH1 is a vegan silicone macro-emulsion softener with 35% plant-based active content.