From the Sector

RadiciGroup announced the launch of the first physical and digital nylon traceability project at Techtextil 2024. A gilet made from the yarn manufactured in one of the Group’s European industrial sites, which, thanks to a QR code on the garment, can reveal its origin and display information about its production process.

Product traceability is a key element in guaranteeing transparency along the entire supply chain, as it means each stage of production – from spinning to weaving and from packaging through to retail – can be monitored and recorded. The project, made possible by a partnership with FibreTrace, allows manufactured nylon yarns to be traced both physically and digitally. In fact, RadiciGroup inserts a tracer (an inorganic additive) that is uniquely associated with the yarn and remains identifiable throughout all stages of processing – on both the fabric and the finished garment. Naturally, the tracer does not alter the esthetical, functional and technical performance of the yarns in any way.

In terms of digital traceability, during the production stages a scanner detects the presence of the tracer and can transmit the data relating to provenance onto a dedicated digital platform. Finally, the consumer, via a QR code, can access the digital platform that provides all information concerning the provenance of the product and its journey through the supply chain.
 
“This project is the result of almost two years’ work by our Research & Development team. We’re very proud to bring to the market the first physical and digital nylon traceability solution and we plan to extend this initiative to other fibres produced by the Group,” emphasised Filippo Bona, R&D Manager of RadiciGroup Advanced Textile Solutions.

Archroma has introduced a new bio-based durable water repellent (DWR) finish that helps mills and brands produce apparel that is soft to the touch and yet offers robust rain and stain protection and an improved sustainability profile.

PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ is designed to provide great water repellence on all kinds of fibers while achieving a soft handle and avoiding undesired effects like yellowing and chalk marking. It performs especially well on synthetic fibers and their blends, making it ideal for apparel, outdoor wear and home textiles.

The new DWR is based on 50% renewable carbon content based on ASTM D6866 and is free of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) and formaldehyde. It is also crosslinker-free, which makes it more flexible in use. While offering good wash durability on its own, PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ can be combined with a crosslinker like ARKOPHOB® NTR-40, which has a biocarbon content of 40%, to further boost wash and/or dry-cleaning resistance.

Sportswear, fashion and home textiles treated with the PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ durable water repellent qualify for the High IQ® Repel assurance program. The High IQ® program assures consumers that these products deliver performance, protection and comfort and meet strict environmental standards.

Nichts ist nachhaltiger, als Dinge zu nutzen, die bereits da sind. Daher verfügen die meisten Filialen des Hamburger Outdoor Ausrüsters Globetrotter über eigene Werkstätten, in denen verschiedene Pflege- und Reparaturservices angeboten werden. Passend zum Earth Day (22. April) eröffnete der Einzelhändler vor kurzem eine weitere Werkstatt in Stuttgart. Am 6. Mai wird Globetrotter seine bisher größte Reparatur-Werkstatt in Köln eröffnen.

Auf 25 Quadratmetern bietet die Werkstatt in der Stuttgarter Erlebnisfiliale zahlreiche Pflege- und Reparaturservices für Outdoor-Ausrüstung und Bekleidung, wie etwa das Waschen, Imprägnieren oder Wachsen von Bekleidung, Schuhen, Schlafsäcken und Co. Ebenso können kleinere Näharbeiten und Reparaturen von Hardware durchgeführt werden. In Köln eröffnet im Mai die bis dato größte Filialwerkstatt mit einer Fläche von 83 Quadratmetern.

„Der heutige Earth Day erinnert uns daran, dass wir noch immer mehr Ressourcen verbrauchen, als gut für uns und unseren Planeten ist. Wir leben in einer Wegwerfgesellschaft. Wer seine Kleidung und Ausrüstung richtig pflegt, repariert und lange nutzt, trägt dazu bei, Abfall zu reduzieren und Ressourcen zu schonen,“ so Product Lifecycle Managerin Christiane Gawlik. „Daher bieten wir zahlreiche Services, die die Lebenszeit von Produkten verlängern.“ Bereits im Jahr 2018 wurde die erste lokale Werkstatt in Frankfurt eröffnet, in den Folgejahren wurden weitere Stores ausgestattet.

Mittlerweile kauft Globetrotter außerdem in allen Filialen gebrauchte Bekleidung und Ausrüstung seiner Kund:innen an und bietet dort auch ein breites Outdoor-Sortiment aus zweiter Hand. Beide Angebote sind auch online verfügbar. Auf alle Waren gibt der Händler eine Gewährleistung von zwölf Monaten. Auch ein Miet-Service für Outdoor-Ausrüstung wird sowohl online als auch in ausgewählten Filialen angeboten – darunter auch die Stores in Stuttgart und Köln.

Im Fokus des Messeauftritts Epsons auf der texprocess 2024 (23.4. bis 26.4., Messe Frankfurt) steht die Präsentation eines gemeinsam mit den Partnerunternehmen Summa aus Gistel, Belgien, und der Multi-Plot aus Bad Emstal aufgebauten Herstellungsprozesses von bedruckten Textilien. An den Ständen der Firmen sehen Fachbesucher:innen jeweils einen Abschnitt eines Produktionsprozesses mit reibungslos ineinandergreifenden Schritten. Der zentrale Teil des Workflows ist ein SureColor F9400H Drucker, der die textilen Motive auf Transferpapier druckt. Daneben zeigt Epson auf seinem Stand die Hybriddrucker SC-F2200 und SC-F1000 für Anwendungen aus dem DTG- & DTFilm Bereich. Der Auftritt Epsons auf der texprocess 2024 wird abgerundet durch eine Auswahl von Textilmustern, die von Druckern der industriellen Textildruckerreihe Monna Lisa angefertigt wurden.

Die Aufgabe des Epson SC-F9400H in dem textilen Workflow ist der Druck des Designs auf ein Transferpapier, das anschließend mit einem Kalander des Typs HJ 75 von Multi-Plot unter Einwirkung von Hitze und Druck in das gewählte textile Medium eingebracht wird. Nach der Kalandrierung des Designs auf dem Textil schneidet ein L1810 Laserschneider von Summa als letzten Schritt des Workflows das Material für eine Weiterverarbeitung zurecht.

Zum Druck des Designs selbst wird die Software „Epson Edge Print“ eingesetzt, die auch ein Farbmanagement ermöglicht. Dazu wird der neue Epson SD-10 Automated Scanning Table zusammen mit der im Lieferumfang des Scantisches enthaltenen Software „Edge Color Lite“ Software eingesetzt.

Der SD-10 Automated Scanning Table ist eine Lösung, mittels dem das Epson SD-10 Spektralphotometer automatisch Farbcharts einliest und so schnell und einfach präzise Farbprofile erstellt. Als Option für das seit letztem Jahr erhältliche SD-10 Spektralfotometer und der Software „Edge Color Lite“ bildet der neue SD-10 Automated Scanning Table eine benutzerfreundliche Komplettlösung zur Erstellung von ICC-Profilen. Auch ist mit dem SD-10 Automated Scanning Table und Edge Color Lite die Überprüfung und der Abgleich mehrerer Drucker desselben Modells möglich, sodass die Kalibrierung einzelner Geräte untereinander vereinfacht und beschleunigt wird.

Trends such as fitness lifestyle and vitality, the quantified self movement, active ageing and the outdoor boom will significantly change the sports, health and wellness sector in the coming years. In addition, technical innovations will redefine the way people stay fit and healthy. The DiMo - Digital Motion joint project aims to help shape the transformation process. It ran in its first round in 2023 and will be continued for another four years with DiMo-NEXT.

The project aims to conduct transdisciplinary research into how people's experience of exercise can be improved, performance increased and a sustainable lifestyle made possible. The potential offered by digital technologies, particularly in the field of sensors, plays a key role here. The topic of clothing is also important as an interface between technological solutions and people. This is why KARL MAYER and Grabher are among the 26 project partners from industry and research, representing the textile industry.

The textile machinery manufacturer KARL MAYER is contributing its expertise in the field of wearables to the project work. The TEXTILE CIRCUIT team of its TEXTILE MAKERSPACE has already successfully implemented various projects in this area. In addition, an MJ 52/1 S from KARL MAYER is used at V-Trion, Grabher's research company in Lustenau, for the production of electrically conductive textiles.

DiMo-NEXT will be launched on April 1, 2024, shortly before Techtextil 2024 in Frankfurt am Main. KARL MAYER will present its contribution to the project work at the trade fair for the sector.

Smart textiles have the potential to revolutionise healthcare. In his doctoral thesis in textile technology at the University of Borås, Emanuel Gunnarsson presents unique solutions to the bottleneck that has long inhibited the market.

With an ageing population, increasing demands are being placed on healthcare and smart textiles can offer a solution where only imagination sets limits. “The long-term goal of most smart textiles is for them to be so easy to use that the user doesn't think of them as anything more than regular garments. No special procedure should be needed to use them. If we succeed in that, we won't burden healthcare by having healthcare personnel administer vital parameter monitoring such as blood pressure and pulse, as the user can handle it themselves,” said Emanuel Gunnarsson.

In his work, he has investigated how a t-shirt for measuring heart rhythm and movement patterns, and garments for electrostimulation, can be produced in a single step. This involves the connection between the contact surfaces (electrodes), the insulated conductive paths between the electrode and the contact point, and the electrical measuring equipment required.

“This, as far as we know, has never been described before. We are completely convinced that this is the solution to a significant bottleneck when it comes to getting the smart textile market going in earnest,” said Emanuel Gunnarsson.

His work has resulted in two different simple ways to produce smart textiles. He demonstrates that sensors can be integrated using standard textile manufacturing methods. The research also includes criticism of some of the methods used to measure the functionality of smart textiles, and advice on how to do it better instead.

“The next natural step will be to see how these garments cope with one of the toughest challenges a garment faces, namely washing. Especially as these garments must be worn closest to the skin, they will need to be washed relatively often,” said Emanuel Gunnarsson.

Studies from other universities indicate that the yarns used to measure signals from the body do not withstand many washes, but after a small pilot study, Emanuel Gunnarsson is hopeful of the opposite.

Eastman, a specialty materials company and producer of Naia™ cellulosic fibers, has formed a collaboration with Debrand, a logistics company specializing in finding sustainable solutions to apparel waste.

Teaming up with Debrand for collection of the waste, Eastman is using its molecular recycling technology to recycle 5,000 pounds of pre- and post-consumer apparel waste. The process breaks down apparel waste to its molecular building blocks and uses the certified recycled material to create Naia™ Renew fibers — circular fibers made from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% recycled waste material via Global Recycled Standard-certified mass balance.

Eastman and Debrand are showcasing the transformative potential of molecular recycling technology to address the textile waste crisis. By providing more circular solutions for apparel waste, this partnership sets a new standard for sustainable practices in the fashion industry. Prior to its collaboration with Eastman, Debrand secured a strategic investment from Waste Management, a provider of comprehensive waste management in North America, to deliver circular solutions across the U.S. and Canada.

Eastman continues to partner with strategic brands and organizations to drive innovation and enhance the infrastructure for a circular economy in the textiles industry. Recently, Eastman teamed up with Patagonia to recycle 8,000 pounds of its unusable apparel.

Stratasys Ltd. announced the launch of its Direct-to-Garment (D2G) solution for the J850 TechStyle™ printer, the newest offering in the Stratasys 3DFashion™ direct-to-textile printing technology. The first example of its application is an Urban Tattoo denim collection which will be revealed at the Texprocess exhibition in Frankfurt, Germany on April 23.

The D2G solution is ideal for customization and personalization by enabling the application of full color multi-material 3D print directly on fully assembled garments of various fabric types including denim, cotton, polyester, and linen. It allows fashion brands to facilitate personalized and bespoke designs for customers, including the ability to tailor 3D prints according to individual preferences, sizes, and styles.  

Available in two sizes, the D2G tray kits facilitate the personalization of garments ranging from jeans to jackets, enabling designers and manufacturers to adopt more sustainable practices by reducing material waste. The seamless workflow delivers ease of calibration and compatibility with various garment sizes, streamlining the production process and fostering the creation of unique, personalized apparel.

Demonstrating this innovation, the Urban Tattoo collection showcases the potential and the ease of direct-to-garment 3D printing. Working with noted designers Karim Rashid, Travis Fitch, Zlatko Yanakiev at Meshroom along with Foraeva Studio, this collection shows the transformation of ordinary garments into pieces of wearable art, imbuing them with personal identity and meaning.

Like body tattoos, Urban Tattoos promote a deeper emotional connection, encouraging the upcycling of existing garments and contributing to a more sustainable fashion ecosystem. This aligns with Stratasys’ strategy for Mindful Manufacturing™. Stratasys has been able to create a new collection that will appeal to multiple brands that reach across diverse socio-economic backgrounds.

adidas unveils the team kits that will be worn at the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. With one central design story, all adidas teams and athletes are united under a design DNA that celebrates the unique identities of each nation.

All athletes share a passion for their sport, but this internal fire burns brightest around major international tournaments. In Paris, adidas will capture the flame that burns within every athlete through impactful fonts and detailed graphics – that feature across all apparel created for its 15 officially sponsored teams. To express the fire within athletes, the kits’ graphics, typeface, and all over print use a repeated line pattern which is brought to life through pops of color

Beyond team kits, adidas’ offering extends to the 2024 athlete pack – a 49-strong footwear collection which equips athletes across 41 different disciplines – more than 20 of which may be seen during the field of play this summer.

Epson hat erstmals die höchste Einstufung des MSCI ESG Ratings „AAA“ erhalten. MSCI ESG Ratings ist ein globaler Investmentindex für Umwelt, Soziales und Unternehmensführung (ESG), der von der Ratingagentur MSCI (Morgan Stanley Capital International) bereitgestellt wird. MSCI recherchiert und analysiert dafür den Umgang eines Unternehmens mit ESG-bezogenen Risiken und Chancen und ordnet es auf einer siebenstufigen Skala von AAA („Leader“) bis CCC („Laggard“) ein.
Epson führt sein erstes AAA-Rating auf sein Engagement zurück, international anerkannte, CSR-basierte Standards für die Beschaffung zu erfüllen sowie der Verbesserung der Systeme für Governance und die Entwicklung des Humankapitals im Jahr 2023.
 
Die Seiko Epson Corporation (TSE: 6724) wurde zudem als Bestandteil für den MSCI Japan ESG Select Leaders Index, den MSCI Japan Empowering Women Index (WIN) sowie für alle weiteren ESG-basierten Indizes für japanische Aktien* ausgewählt, die im japanischen Government Pension Investment Fund (GPIF) aufgenommen sind.
 
Epson hat vier wesentliche Felder identifiziert, auf die sich das Unternehmen konzentriert: Nachhaltigkeit in einer Kreislaufwirtschaft zu erreichen, die Grenzen der Industrie zu erweitern, die Lebensqualität zu verbessern und sozialer Verantwortung gerecht zu werden – dies geht damit einher mit der Philosophie des Unternehmens, gesellschaftliche Probleme zu lösen und dauerhafte Werte zu schaffen.