From the Sector

HeiQ AeoniQ™ becomes an active brand partner of the Canopy initiative with eleven other companies to address the growing climate and biodiversity crises by committing to keep Ancient and Endangered Forests out of our man-made cellulosic fiber supply chain.

The commitments that HeiQ AeoniQ™ is making are part of solutions-driven non-profit Canopy’s Pack4Good and CanopyStyle initiatives which currently represent collectively 950 brand partners. Together, the initiatives are shifting supply chains away from vital forests to low-impact, circular Next Gen Solutions.

“We must rapidly replace oil-based polyester in the textile industry causing microplastics, global warming, landfill and ecosystem degradation. Cellulose is the most abundant biopolymer in the world and is best suited to replace polyester. However, we must pay attention to cellulose feedstock sources. Our forests, a potential cellulose feedstock, are one of the most important solutions to addressing the effects of climate change. Approximately 2.6 billion tons of carbon dioxide, one-third of the CO₂ released from burning fossil fuels, is absorbed by forests every year. Around 12.5% of global greenhouse gas emissions (5-10 GtCO₂e annually) come from deforestation. We are losing forests at an alarming rate. Every year, around 10 million hectares of forests globally are destroyed. We need immediate action to increase forests again. Canopy is our go-to partner to replace polyester with circular & sustainable cellulose feedstock for our innovative HeiQ AeoniQ™ fiber revolution.” said Carlo Centonze, HeiQ Group CEO.

Paper packaging is also a key driver of forest loss globally, as 3.1 billion trees are cut down annually to produce the boxes and bags in which products are packaged and shipped. Paper packaging production has increased by 65% over the past two years.

“The range of companies and sectors represented in today’s announcement reflects the breadth of market response to the growing climate and biodiversity crises and intensifying supply chain disruptions,” said Nicole Rycroft, Founder and Executive Director of Canopy. “Today’s brand partners add significant momentum to global conservation efforts and the movement to transform ‘take, make, waste’ supply chains to be lower-impact and Next Gen.”

Today, as part of Pack4Good, HeiQ AeoniQ™ committed to:

• Eliminate Ancient and Endangered Forests from our paper packaging supply chain.
• Reduce material use through design innovation.
• Maximize recycled content.
• Explore and scale alternative Next Gen fibers (such as agricultural residues).
• Where virgin fiber is necessary, use FSC-certified fiber.

Carbios  has been granted the building permit and operating authorization for the world’s first PET[1] biorecycling plant, allowing construction to start. The plant will be built in Longlaville in the Grand-Est Region on a 13.7-hectare site adjacent to the existing PET production plant of Indorama Ventures, its strategic partner.

This state-of-the-art facility, scheduled for commissioning in 2025, will play a crucial role in the fight against plastic pollution by providing an industrial-scale enzymatic recycling solution for PET waste. Carbios’ technology enables PET circularity and offers an alternative raw material to virgin fossil-based monomers, allowing PET producers, chemical companies, waste management firms, public entities, and brands to have an effective solution to meet regulatory requirements and fulfill their sustainability commitments. The plant will have a processing capacity of 50,000 tons of post-consumer PET waste per year (mostly waste that is non-recyclable mechanically, equivalent to 2 billion colored PET bottles or 2.5 billion PET food trays) and will generate 150 direct and indirect jobs in the region.
 
The plant will be built on a 13.7-hectare site acquired by Carbios on Indorama Ventures’ existing PET plant site without suspensive conditions. The land area gives the possibility to double the facility’s capacity.
 
A plant designed to minimize its carbon footprint
The plant is designed to maximize circularity, with high-quality output products, and minimize its environmental footprint, especially with regards to energy consumption. Optimizations are underway to further increase the recycling of water required for the process.

Located near the borders with Belgium, Germany, and Luxembourg, the plant’s location is strategic for nearby waste supply. Moreover, Carbios’ biorecycling technology can process complex waste that conventional technologies cannot recycle and produce food-grade products, enhancing the plant’s flexibility for waste supply. Carbios and Indorama Ventures will collaborate to ensure the feedstock supply of the Longlaville plant, located in a geographical area where the supply potential could reach 400,000 tons in 2023, and up to 500,000 tons in 2030 with improved selective collection.

Carbios has already secured an initial supply source by winning part of the CITEO tender for the biorecycling of multilayer food trays. The consortium composed of Carbios, Wellman (a subsidiary of Indorama Ventures), and Valorplast has been selected to handle 30% of the tonnage proposed by CITEO. Carbios will handle the portion of the flow consisting of multilayer food trays at its Longlaville plant starting in 2025.
 
Plant funding secured
In July 2023, Carbios successfully completed its capital increase for approximately €141 million, the largest capital increase on Euronext Growth since 2015. This amount is mainly intended to finance the construction of this plant, for which the total investment is estimated at around €230 million. The portion of the investment not funded by the proceeds from the July 2023 capital increase is expected to be covered by Indorama Ventures, which plans to mobilize approximately €110 million for this project, French state subsidies of €30 million, and €12.5 million from the Grand-Est Region, as well as a portion of Carbios Group’s available cash, which amounted to €78 million as of 30 June 2023.

Toray Industries, Inc. will expand the French subsidiary Toray Carbon Fibers Europe S.A.’s production facilities for regular tow medium- and high-modulus carbon fibers (up to 24,000 filaments). This move will increase annual capacity at the Abidos plant (South-West France) from 5,000 metric tons annually, to 6,000 metric tons. Production is expected to start in 2025.

Demand for medium- and high-modulus carbon fibers is rising in Europe, driven by a push to move towards a net-zero society. This growth is mainly due to higher build rates for commercial aircrafts (secondary structures and engines), as well as centrifuge for energy production, satellites, and high-end automobiles. By boosting carbon fiber production capacity in Europe, Toray is responding to its customers’ demand for medium and high-modulus carbon fibers, as befits the market leader.

Digital fashion outlet Otrium announces the launch of a dedicated garment refurbishment and repair programme for damaged returns following a successful pilot scheme. The initiative is being run in partnership with Bleckmann, experts in supply chain management for fashion and lifestyle brands. Working with Bleckmann’s team of circular fashion experts from The Renewal Workshop, Otrium is taking the next step in its strategic journey to help reduce the number of that might ultimately end up in landfills or destroyed.
 
Most of the returns that Otrium currently receives can be easily restored and put back on sale. However, in rare cases, returned items are damaged. “Preventing waste is an important part of Otrium’s DNA, and thanks to our partnership with Bleckmann and their Renewal Workshop team, we can now repair the majority of damaged returns and put them back into circulation,” said Kevin Carolan, Director of Logistics at Otrium. “We are happy that we can use our position in the fashion supply chain to create lasting change and accelerate towards our mission of reducing the volume of garments that go to landfill.”

Since 2020, Otrium is exploring refurbishment and repairs with their third-party logistics provider Bleckmann. In April 2023, both partners started a three-month pilot at Bleckmann’s facility in Almelo, the Netherlands, to expand the programme with a broader range of repairs and optimised processes through data use. During the pilot, the Renewal Workshop team at Bleckmann refurbished more than 1,000 returned garments, shoes and accessories for Otrium each month.

“With hundreds of high-end labels on the platform, we needed an efficient solution tailored to the needs of a wide range of products – from shoes and coats to bags,” explained Marlot Kiveron, Head of Sustainability at Otrium. “The Renewal Workshop team worked closely with us to develop a streamlined and scalable process that could grow in line with our ambitions, delivering like-new repairs at the speed of e-commerce. Their combination of purpose, professionalism, agility and expertise makes them the ideal partner for this kind of project.”
 
Bleckmann’s integrated data capabilities were also crucial to the success of the partnership. “Data collection and analysis can be vital in demonstrating the commercial viability of sustainability initiatives,” said Tamara Zwart, Director of Renewal at Bleckmann. “Using our advanced stock tracking systems, we determined that 70% of the renewed Otrium stock had been sold within seven weeks. We’re all delighted with the results!”
Furthermore, carbon-tracking software Vaayu calculated that on average, a refurbished return sold on Otrium avoids 2.760kg of carbon emissions and 69g of waste proofing that this programme can have a positive impact on both: the planet and the business.

Having established the business case, the team decided to expand the initiative beyond the pilot phase. “This project is a milestone in our sustainability journey,” concluded Marlot. “It’s a key part of our ongoing commitment to finding more ways to reduce our environmental impact while helping to ensure that more clothes get worn. By the end of 2023, we aim to repair at least 25,000 damaged garments. Together with Bleckmann and their renewal experts, we’re well on our way to proving that this circular business model can be a valuable part of our future growth.”

On the occasion of Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition 2023, Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has released the 2023 edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda  — a concise report to support the establishment and implementation of leadership strategies to achieve a net positive fashion sector that puts back more into society, the environment, and the global economy than it takes out. In a first for the Fashion CEO Agenda, this edition has been developed to include subsequent action areas for brands, retailers, and producers.  

With less than seven years to deliver on the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals, fashion industry leaders, together with the broader sector, must take urgent steps to make sustainability an integral part of their business strategies. Developed for executives of fashion brands, retailers, and producers, the Fashion CEO Agenda is a succinct resource to support executives in accelerating tangible action across five socio-environmental sustainability priorities:  

• Respectful and Secure Work Environment
• Better Wage Systems
• Resource Stewardship
• Smart Material Choices
• Circular Systems

The 2023 edition includes action areas that have been established through several years of stakeholder engagement and reinforced through the  global Fashion Industry Target Consultation, led by GFA in partnership with the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP). The organisations consulted several hundred industry stakeholders through numerous regional workshops and surveys translated into several languages to help inform a holistic framework that captures global perspectives on social and environmental sustainability.  

Action areas outlined in the report include promoting worker access to effective grievance mechanisms, promoting fair compensation and living wages, establishing water stewardship, and addressing overproduction.

Moreover, the report reiterates the need to adopt existing industry-aligned targets, including UNFCCC’s time-bound targets on decarbonisation and the uptake of preferred and low climate impact materials. The material actions outlined are based on consensus across industry stakeholders and topical experts. Extensive stakeholder engagement demonstrated that substantial action is still urgently needed from all actors in the value chain, while such action must be informed by local contexts.

To complement the Fashion CEO Agenda, GFA has created a 2030 Fashion Sector Vision, which presents where the overall sector should be in relation to each of the five sustainability priority areas within only seven years - a critical milestone on the road to net positive by 2050. The objective is to unite the broader sector, consisting of industry actors such as brands, retailers, and producers and other key stakeholders including consumers, citizens, NGOs, innovators, policymakers, and investors. To realise this Vision, it is imperative that the sector moves from ambition to action – the theme underpinning Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition 2023. GFA now calls on fashion leaders to align their corporate strategies to the priorities and actions laid out in the Fashion CEO Agenda and for the wider sector to support in fostering a conducive environment for scaling this transformation.

The Lenzing Group has received certification from the internationally recognized EU Ecolabel for its fibers at the Indonesian site. This means that Lenzing fibers produced in Purwakarta (PT. South Pacific Viscose) meet high environmental standards. The product portfolio thus expands and qualifies for the production of LENZING™ ECOVERO™ brand fibers for textiles and VEOCEL™ brand fibers for nonwoven applications.

The substantial investment of EUR 100 mn to modernize the Indonesian site has enabled Lenzing to significantly reduce its specific emissions. In addition, the site recently began sourcing energy from renewable sources and is driving the conversion to biomass in line with Lenzing's goals of reducing group-wide carbon emissions per ton of product sold by 50 percent by 2030 and achieving carbon-neutral production by 2050.

Anthropogenic climate change is one of the most pressing problems of our time, to which both the global textile and nonwovens industries make a major contribution. LENZING™ ECOVERO™ viscose fibers (for textiles) and VEOCEL™ Viscose (for nonwovens) have been proven to cause significantly less greenhouse gas emissions and water pollution than conventional viscose. At the Indonesian site, Lenzing also plans to produce the innovative LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Black fibers in the future, which also require less energy and water in textile chain thanks to the spun-dyeing process and thus also have a lower carbon footprint in their life cycle as a textile product.

Die AZL Aachen GmbH, bekannter Innovationspartner für Industriekooperationen auf dem Gebiet der Leichtbautechnologieforschung, startet eines neuen Projekts mit dem Titel "Trends und Designfaktoren für Wasserstoffdruckbehälter". Das Projekt wird Fragestellungen der Industrie in Bezug auf die Wasserstoffspeicherung adressieren.

AZL Aachen GmbH, a recognized innovator in lightweight technologies research and industry collaboration, announces the initiation of a new project titled "Trends and Design Factors for Hydrogen Pressure Vessels". The project aims to address industry needs surrounding hydrogen storage.

Hydrogen has gained significant attention as a key technological solution for decarbonization, with high pressure storage and transportation emerging as vital components. Its applications extend from stationary storage solutions to mobile pressure vessels employed in sectors such as transportation and energy systems.

The AZL team, renowned for its high reputation in providing market and technology insights as well as developing component and production concepts in the format of Joint Partner Projects seeks for companies along the whole composite value chain interested in further developing their application know how in this economically highly relevant field.

The project will provide an in depth exploration of market insights, regulatory standards, and intellectual property landscapes. Beyond this, there is a dedicated focus on staying updated with state of the art and advancements in design, materials, and man ufacturing techniques.

An integral component of the project involves the creation of reference designs by AZL´s engineering team. The reference designs will encompass a variety of pressure vessel configurations and will consider a diverse range of materials and production concep ts.

With the scheduled project start in October 2023, and a project timeline of approximately nine months, AZL encourages companies active across the composite value chain to participate. Companies interested in participating or seeking further information should reach out directly to the AZL expert team.

Toray Composite Materials America, Inc. headquartered in Tacoma, Washington, has been awarded the "Boeing Supplier of the Year" award, a leadership-nominated award given to supplier companies that support and propel Boeing's strategic objectives through risk-sharing and enduring partnerships. This year, 12 companies were selected from among 11,000 Boeing suppliers worldwide, and CMA was selected as one of them for the Alliance Award. This is Toray's second award from Boeing, receiving the Supplier of the Year Excellence Award in 2019.

Toray began supplying Boeing in 1975 when it first qualified TORAYCA™ T300 carbon fiber for commercial application on the Boeing 737. Since then, Toray has provided high-performance carbon fiber and highly toughened, primary structure carbon fiber composite prepreg on various programs.

The trophy was presented by William A. Ampofo II, Vice President of Parts & Distribution Services and Supply Chain for Boeing Global Services and Chair of the Supply Chain Operations Council to CMA.

DyStar, a leading specialty chemical company announced the release of its thirteenth annual Integrated Sustainability Report. The report is prepared in accordance with the updated GRI Standards 2021: Core Options. Despite the challenging business landscape and economic situations, DyStar remains committed to delivering tangible values that the Group has strategically created through the six major capitals, using the Integrated Reporting <IR> framework.

DyStar’s business strategies have proven their effectiveness and delivered significant progress toward its 2025 targets. The company has successfully reduced its environmental footprint in Greenhouse Gas Emission intensity and Wastewater production intensity by more than 30%, compared to the baseline year 2011.

More specifically, DyStar’s Scope 1 and Scope 2 Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Emissions intensity was 45% lower (tCO₂e per ton production) than the baseline year 2011, with a totaled GHG emission of 56.91 thousand tCO₂e. This is also 9% lower when compared to FY2021.

Similarly, for Wastewater production intensity, DyStar achieved a 52% reduction compared to baseline year 2011, and a 24% reduction from FY2021.

Some other key highlights and value-adds include (when compared to FY2021):

• Financial Capital: The results of production efficiency and streamlining manufacturing indirectly contributed to the reduction of 5.8% in operating cost
• Manufactured Capital: Apart from ensuring quality suppliers through DyStar’s internal audit, DyStar’s effort on environmental performance and climate impacts with the Institute of Public & Environmental Affairs (IPE) was recognized and ranked second by industry on IPE’s Green Supply Chain Corporate Information Transparency Index (CITI)
• Intellectual Capital: The innovative Cadira® modules continue to support the supply chain with a lower carbon footprint
• Human Capital: The full launch of DyStar University (DSU), a proprietary LMS, supports the learning and development of employees globally
• Social Capital: DyStar’s culturally diverse workforce organized a variety of activities and events in support of its global community and made a total contribution of USD 128,946 to various corporate social responsibility (“CSR”) program.

Despite the harsh economic headwinds, these figures further demonstrated the effectiveness of DyStar’s initiatives that were installed throughout the reporting year.

DyStar maintains a cautious yet optimistic outlook on its global performance.

To reach its goal of being the world’s leading supplier of enhanced recycled polyethylene terephthalate (PET), gr3n is signing a binding Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) with its shareholder Intecsa Industrial to set up a Joint Venture.

gr3n together with Intecsa Industrial will join forces and build a “First-of-a-Kind” manufacturing facility able to produce 40.000 tons of virgin-like PET, commencing EPC phase in Q4-2024 and aiming to be operational in 2027. gr3n’s chemical recycling technology is capable of processing PET from various industries including textile waste, closing the loop for hard-to-recycle PET applications.

The world’s first industrial-scale MADE PET recycling plant will have the capability to process post-industrial and post-consumer PET waste including hard-to-recycle waste, to produce approximately 40.000 tons of virgin PET chips from the recycled monomers saving nearly 2 million tons of CO2 during its operating life. The post-consumer and/or post-industrial polyesters will be both from bottles (colored, colorless, transparent, opaque) and textiles (100% polyester but also mixtures of other materials like PU, cotton, polyether, polyurea, etc. with up to 30% of presence in the raw textile).

The technical concept of the MADE plant is to break down PET into its main components (monomers) so they can potentially be re-polymerized endlessly to provide brand new virgin PET or any other polymer using one of the monomers. Polymers obtained can be used to produce new bottles/trays and/or new garments, essentially completely displacing feedstock material from fossil fuels, as the recycled product has the same functionality as that derived traditionally. This means that gr3n can potentially achieve bottle-to-textile, textile-to-textile, or even textile-to-bottle recycling, moving from a linear to a circular system.

gr3n’s process has the potential to change the way PET is recycled worldwide, enabling huge benefits for both the recycling industry and the entire polyester value chain. Many efforts have been made in the past to transfer enhanced recycling from research laboratories to the manufacturing industry, but the economics and skepticism of the first adopters have constantly blocked the progress of the proposed solutions. Thanks to the MADE technology developed by gr3n, this approach is now feasible and makes gr3n one of the few companies with the potential to provide a reliable enhanced recycling solution that closes the life cycle of PET, and also offers food grade polymer material, processes a large variety of waste and reduces the carbon footprint of these materials usually destined for incineration or landfill.