From the Sector

Just ahead of the fall season, adidas Originals and Pharrell Williams return to launch an array of new colors of their gender-neutral Humanrace Premium Basics Collection. The FW22 drop features a premium, heavyweight jersey crafted from cotton from Better Cotton, which supports more sustainable cotton farming. Designs are punctuated with the signature puff-print logo execution and large ‘Humanrace’ chest branding on select pieces.

The collection comprises the PW Basics Tee, PW Basics Short, PW Basics Hoodie, PW Basics Pant, PW Basics Crew , and PW Basics Long Sleeve Tee. Each item is available in sizes ranging from 3XS-2XL and in seven colors chosen by Pharrell, including Night Grey, Alumina, Light  Grey Heather, Linen Green, Halo Blue, Almost Pink, and Almost Yellow.

Coisne et Lambert, the group composed of the two companies TDV Industries and Klopman International, a leader in the production and marketing of technical fabrics for the professional clothing and PPE sector, announced the acquisition of TAD Teintures et Apprêts Danjoux.

TAD is specialized in the dyeing and finishing of knitted fabrics and has been in the market for over 30 years. Based in Le Coteau (France), the company has a production site of 9,000 m² and is a major player in the civil and administrative markets for technical textiles for professional clothing, medical, sport and apparel.

With a well equipped R&D laboratory, responsive and innovative sampling and production processes, TAD is ISO 14001 certified to manage its environmental performance.

TAD will extend the group's textile know-how adding expertise in knitwear finishing (dyeing, finishing and functionalities). The complimentary nature of their skillsets will allow the three companies to develop synergies for the benefit of their common and specific markets.

This integration will enable TAD to strengthen its specific business model and its services as a French finishing company over the long term, for the benefit of its historical and future customers.

The group, which is made up of the two companies TDV Industries and Klopman International, achieved a turnover of 185 million euros for the 2021-2022 financial year and employs more than 600 people. It also intends to expand its presence in new markets and geographical areas. Klopman International and TDV Industries want to offer markets more complete, flexible and competitive solutions for professional, civil and military clothing.

• Stéphane Ferreira joined Carbios as Director of Operations and Executive Committee Member, on October 10, 2022.
• Frédéric Alarcon appointed Licensing Manager
• Arnaud Tillon appointed Group Marketing Director
• New areas of expertise complete the seniority of Carbios’ leadership team, following June appointments of Mathieu Berthoud as Sourcing and Public Affairs Director, Lionel Arras as Industrial Director, and Pascal Bricout as Strategy and Finance Director.
• Departure of Martin Stephan, Deputy CEO

Carbios strengthens its organization with the appointment of Stéphane Ferreira as Director of Operations. He will be in charge of the business’ global development and will steer the relationship with Carbios’ industrial and commercial partners.

Stéphane Ferreira's team will be reinforced by two new members, including:

• Frédéric Alarcon, Licensing Manager, who joined Carbios on September 5. His role is to build and deploy the process licensing model that is at the heart of Carbios’ business model;
• Arnaud Tillon, Group Marketing Director, who joined the firm on September 12. He will support the company’s development by defining and deploying the marketing strategy. He is also in charge of reinforcing the customer culture within the organization.

Martin Stephan will leave his position as Deputy CEO on October 15, 2022, after nearly six years at Carbios.

Emmanuel Ladent, Carbios’ Chief Executive Officer: "The appointment of Stéphane Ferreira as Director of Operations is excellent news for Carbios. His extensive experience in global markets will help Carbios reach a new level, by deploying the company’s proprietary technologies on a large scale. I am also very pleased with the recent arrivals of Frédéric Alarcon and Arnaud Tillon, whose respective expertise in licenses and mass-market offers will be invaluable. Lastly, on behalf of all Carbios’ teams, I want to salute and thank Martin Stephan for his continued commitment to the company’s development. His experience, expertise and skills have been key to developing partnerships which have enabled Carbios to be so close to industrial deployment and recognized as the future worldwide leader of plastics and fibers in the circular economy."

HEATHCOAT FABRICS partnered again with BRÜCKNER Textile Technologies and their sales partner ADVANCED DYEING SOLUTIONS to install a finishing line for industrial textiles. HEATHCOAT FABRICS specializes in the production of technical textiles in the fields of texturising, weaving and warp knitting as well as dyeing and finishing. The prroducts are manufactured for use in the automotive, healthcare, defence, and aerospace industries

Mrs. Regina Brückner, CEO and owner of the BRÜCKNER Group stated: "To meet the complex re-quirements of HEATHCOAT is not easy because of the great variety of technical textiles produced. Our line has to finish light as well as heavy articles, so the design, control and the whole line layout have to be flexible, functional and still easy to operate. Fortunately, the team at HEATHCOAT FABRICS is very innovative and open-minded, and together we worked hard to develop the right technology and han-dling. We are very happy that we could convince this customer, whom we appreciate very much, with the productivity of our line and of course with our technological know-how."

The direct gas heated BRÜCKNER POWER-FRAME stenter with its staggered heating source arrangement every half zone provides best available temperature consistency across the length and the width of the stenter. The unit is equipped with a low-lub, horizontally returning combined pin / clip chain and several fabric paths, especially designed for the different fabrics being processed. Together with HEATHCOAT FABRICS technologists, the BRÜCKNER design team developed a special delivery end of the stenter with different edge trimming and slitting possibilities. Depending on the kind of products, the fabrics can be batched on large diameter A-frames, wound on cardboard tubes or plaited into trolleys.

Carbios announced the appointment of Pascal Bricout as Chief Strategy and Financial Officer and a member of the Company’s Executive Committee.

Mr. Bricout will oversee the management and organization of Carbios’ Finance division. He will also steer the Group’s Strategy, investor relations and the launch of the company’s Corporate Social Responsibility policy. He joins the company with over 30 years’ experience in finance, strategy and international mergers and acquisitions.
 
Prior to joining Carbios, Mr. Bricout served as Chief Financial Officer for Michelin in Asia, which is a major area of growth and development for the company. Over the past 10 years, he has focused primarily on major strategic mergers and acquisitions.

Mr. Bricout holds a Master Degree in Finance from Université Paris-Dauphine. He began his career at PwC, as a manager in the International Transactions Services teams in Paris and London.

Mr. Bricout, Carbios’ Chief Strategy & Financial Officer noted: “I am thrilled to be joining Carbios and proud to take part in this concrete, meaningful advance toward circular economy. Having developed unparalleled breakthrough technologies in plastic and textile biodegradation and biorecycling, Carbios now needs to execute a successful industrial and commercial phase. This is crucial for companies using PET to achieve, from 2025, their sustainable development goals. Within this dynamic context, Carbios and its subsidiary, Carbiolice, are poised to become global leaders in the development and industrialization of innovative bioprocesses to revolutionize the life cycles of plastics and textiles.”

The Lenzing Group and VERBUND, an energy transition company, launched the first development stage of the largest ground-mounted photovoltaic system in Upper Austria. Together with its energy partner VERBUND, Lenzing is also paving the way for the transition to zero-emission mobility. The installation of electric vehicle charging infrastructure at the company’s premises underlines Lenzing’s commitment to the energy transition process.

Thanks to the ground-mounted photovoltaic system at the “Ofenloch” landfill site, Lenzing, in conjunction with VERBUND, is consistently moving forward on the path to a carbon-free energy supply and has commissioned the first half of the new photovoltaic system with a peak power of 2,780 kWp. Full commissioning of the system with a peak power of 5,560 kWp is envisaged in mid-October. Annual electricity production will amount to 6,000,000 kWh, which is expected to cut CO₂ emissions by some 4,400 tonnes per year. The Austrian pioneer in fiber production already commissioned three rooftop photovoltaic systems in spring/summer of 2022, with a peak power of 1,454 kWp and annual electricity production of some 1,508,000 kWh. The electricity flows directly into the company’s on-site production and will also power electric charging stations in future. In the first development stage, 16 wallboxes are set to be installed by the end of the year. A further 32 charging points are planned for 2023. The charging stations will be accessible to staff, visitors and the company’s own vehicle fleet.

“VERBUND’s photovoltaic operator model allows us to make the transition to solar power without incurring investment costs or risks. Thanks to the constant expansion in renewable energy, we remain on course to ecologize the value chain, while optimizing our carbon footprint, cutting costs and reducing the load on the grid, as we are using nearly 100 percent of photovoltaic power in our production,” explains Christian Skilich, Chief Pulp Officer of the Lenzing Group.

Within the scope of the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) initiative “The Sustainability Pledge”, to improve transparency and traceability for sustainable garment and footwear supply chains, the Swiss company Haelixa traces Egyptian cotton from the source up to premium shirts.

The UNECE and United Nations Centre for Trade Facilitation and Electronic Business (UN/CEFACT) has been developing over the period 2019-2022 policy recommendations, implementation guidelines, a call to action, and a traceability toolbox including blockchain and DNA tracing solutions, which has been implemented in few different textile supply chains. Haelixa is part of the group of experts that develops such policy recommendations and conducts projects with key industry players to set traceability benchmarks and later develop them into standards.

Fashion brands are often responsible for complex global value chains and traceability is the needed tool to enable trust, transparency and credible sustainability. The magnitude of the supply chain traceability challenge can be overwhelming for brands, but the UNECE initiative framework facilitates the alignment with suppliers, provides the necessary guidance and the needed tools, with Haelixa as physical traceability provider.

To make the premium shirts traceable, Haelixa has developed a DNA marker to label the raw material, premium Egyptian cotton. The DNA marker has been applied as fine spray to GIZA 96 lint cotton in Borg Al Arab, Egypt and used to produce the finest fabric by Swiss manufacturer Weba. Once applied to the fibers, Haelixa’s DNA markers stay safely embedded into the material and withstand the industrial processing, ensuring traceability from the source until the finished garment. Samples of lint cotton, yarn, and fabric at different steps were verified with a test based on PCR, and the correct DNA marker was detected, thereby enabling the identification of the premium product, of its origin and the specific supply chain. The forensic data obtained were recorded on a blockchain system provided by UNECE. The marked fabric was used to make Hugo Boss cotton dress shirts. As one of the leading premium fashion brands and partner to the UNECE project, Hugo Boss is responsible for a complex global value chain and strives for high sustainability standards and is looking at traceability options.

“In cases like this one, where the material is of the highest quality and the product is shipped from one facility to another for premium processing, adding physical traceability is critical to ensure that the origin, quality and processing claims can be backed up" says Gediminas Mikutis, CTO and co-founder at Haelixa.

Maria Teresa Pisani, Economic Affairs Officer and Project Lead at UNECE, emphasized: “Traceability and transparency are crucial elements to protect environmental, social, and human rights along global value chains. At UNECE, we aim to enhance traceability approaches by exploring new and innovative solutions that help identify and address negative impacts in the fashion industry.”

Two startups in India have won Paint the Future awards and the chance to continue working together with AkzoNobel to accelerate their solutions.

The winning submissions answered the company’s call for innovative ways to enhance the digital consumer experience for Dulux paints in India. The winners are:

• HyperReality Technologies - Collaborative platform for inspiration and visualization of a space in the metaverse
• Fluid AI - Multi-channel, conversational, immersive and interactive AI platform to guide consumers during their painting journey

Having already signed letters of intent to work together on sustainable business opportunities, the two winners now join AkzoNobel’s accelerator program.

The India startup challenge is the third regional edition of Paint the Future. Run in partnership with NASSCOM Industry Partnership Program (NIPP), the challenge attracted 207 submissions from 33 cities across India.

Nine finalists were invited to an intense two-day bootcamp program, where customized sessions with AkzoNobel experts helped them further refine their solution’s value proposition before the final pitch to the Paint the Future jury.

Pincroft, UK’s largest textile dyer, printer and finisher, developed a new camouflage pattern for the Dutch Ministry of Defence as part of their Defensie Materieel Organisatie’s (DMO) ‘STRONG’ programme that aims to supply combat clothing and equipment to all military personnel part of the Royal Netherlands Navy, Army, Air Force and Marechaussee.

The new fabric and camouflage pattern boast the new Netherlands Fractal Pattern and will be used in at least 480,000 sets of uniforms for soldiers worldwide. The camouflage pattern is being manufactured in a green or woodland style for the Army, Air Force, Marechaussee and Marines, while the Navy receives a blue or marine style design. Pincroft followed the guidelines of the new Netherlands Fractal Pattern (NFP) to create an eight-colour camouflage design that provides high levels of disruption to give soldiers better concealment when needed.

The fabric was created by global workwear textile manufacturer, Carrington Textiles, specifically following the Dutch MoD’s requirements on comfort and protection. The result is a lightweight yet durable textile of 210gsm with a composition of 50% cotton, 50% high tenacity nylon and Ripstop for added strength.

The high cotton content of the fabric creates a uniform that’s comfortable to wear due to its softness to the touch, and breathability, as well as providing moisture wicking properties, key elements for the tough conditions soldiers work in. The addition of high tenacity nylon to the fabric, provides added strength and durability, with the Ripstop properties of the fabric offering tear resistance.

Around 480,000 trousers and jackets will be delivered to officers from the Royal Netherlands Navy, Army, Air Force and Marechaussee, during a uniform roll out part of the Dutch MoD’s ‘STRONG’ programme that aims to equip the armed forces in the next 18 months with versatile uniforms and equipment that are adjustable according to the assignment. The pack also includes a raincoat, combat shirt and baseball cap.

SHIMA SEIKI announces a sales promotion package for the apparel industry together with KDDI, Linking 3D fashion design with cross-reality― realizing digital catalogs, VR showrooms and new customer experience allowing 360-degree viewing without actual samples

Leading fashion technologist SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan together with telecommunications company KDDI Corporation of Tokyo, Japan launched "XR Mannequin for APEXFiz," a sales promotion package that links SHIMA SEIKI's APEXFiz design software for the apparel industry with KDDI's XR (cross-reality) technology.

XR Mannequin for APEXFiz will be offered to the apparel industry. Using an XR Mannequin that enables viewers to check product images from any angle in 360 degrees on various devices, XR Mannequin for APEXFiz enables digital catalogues with 3D virtual sample image data of garments designed on APEXFiz design software, 360-degree VR showrooms, as well as digitally extended stores. It also realizes virtual proposals at exhibitions, showroom-style stores with no inventory, and user-friendly purchase experience on e-commerce sites, and more. It also allows users to reduce excess stock at stores and create new sales opportunities.

Eventually, by adding movement to models wearing Virtual Samples and rendering them on a cloud server, customers will be able to view high-resolution virtual fashion shows on their smartphones and other devices.

 Until now, the apparel industry has been making actual product samples in each of the planning and design stages of production. This process not only takes an enormous amount of time and cost, but generates waste of raw materials including fabric that require disposal. At the retail stage, stores also needed to have various sizes and colors in stock to address a wide range of customer preferences, resulting in excess inventory.

With SHIMA SEIKI's APEXFiz, designs can be evaluated without making actual samples, minimizing resources spent on sample production as well as lead time, enabling environmentally-friendly manufacturing.

In May 2022, KDDI developed a high-resolution XR mannequin for apparel sales, with support from Google Cloud. It enables various devices such as store signages and smartphones to check products from any angle in 360 degrees, enabling stores to sell products without maintaining inventory.

SHIMA SEIKI and KDDI combines APEXFiz and XR Mannequin to start providing XR Mannequin for APEXFiz. This brings DX solutions to all stages in the supply chain for the apparel industry, from planning and design to sample making, production, distribution, and retail sales. SHIMA SEIKI and KDDI will continue to create services together that link each other's products, to bring about a sustainable society by reducing excess stock, and providing a customer experience that gives peace of mind when purchasing products.