From the Sector

During the Innovate Textile & Apparel (ITA) virtual textile machinery show which will run from October 15th-30th 2020, Monforts will be emphasising its leadership position in three key fields – advanced coating, denim finishing and fabric sanforizing.

With its multi-head capability, the latest Monforts texCoat coating system provides flexibility with an unprecedented range of options and a wide range of modules available.

Refinements
“Since we acquired the coating technology that our systems are based on we have made a lot of refinements and all of them are reflected in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics,” says Monforts Head of Technical Textiles, Jürgen Hanel.
“Our systems have the shortest fabric path from the coating unit into the stenter and we have all variations of coating application systems too – and all of these options are available in wider widths, with the engineering and manufacturing from a single source here in Europe.”

CYD
Denim finishing is meanwhile a field in which Monforts has an undisputed lead and it has been working closely with its many partners in the key denim manufacturing countries of Bangladesh, Brazil, China, India, Mexico Pakistan and Turkey to develop advanced solutions. The latest of these is the CYD yarn dyeing system.
“CYD is based on the proven Econtrol® dyeing system for fabrics*,” explains Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski. “It integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparatory processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – in order to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. The CYD system has been developed in response to a very strong market demand.”

Pre-shrinking
Monforts has also recently delivered a significant number of its latest Monfortex sanforizing lines to customers around the world.
Sanforizing is vital to final fabric quality, pre-shrinking it by compressing prior to washing, to limit any residual or further shrinkage in a made-up finished garment to less than 1%, for perfect comfort and fit over an extended lifetime.

As with industry-leading Montex stenters, Monfortex lines benefit from the latest Qualitex 800 control system which allows all parameters to be easily automated via the 24-inch colour touchscreen, including production speed, control of all fabric feed devices, rotation spray or steaming cylinder options, the width of the stretching field and the rubber belt pressure. Up to 10,000 separate process parameter records can be generated and stored by the data manager.

*Econtrol® is a registered mark of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany.

Retrofitting a wiping robot to spinning systems is well worthwhile. This is confirmed by the experiences of those customers who have already installed the wiping robot. Oerlikon Barmag wiping robots have been cleaning spin packs at filament yarn manufacturing facilities in China and India for several months now, increasing efficiency considerably.

Regular wiping of the spin packs is important for process stability and yarn quality. These can be positively influenced using wiping robots, because – as confirmed by data acquisition and analysis at the respective manufacturing facilities – the yarn break rate can be reduced by up to 30% by automating the wiping process. And the yarn break rate has a direct impact on the key production figures; to this end, a considerable reduction translates into pure profit for yarn manufacturers.

Can also be retrofitted to existing systems
The Oerlikon Barmag wiping robot can be retrofitted to numerous spinning plants. Suspended from a track system mounted on the ceiling, the system automatically and autonomously targets the individual positions in accordance with the scheduled wiping cycles. In addition to the scheduled wiping processes, there are also events that cannot be planned or that are not immediately visible. Depending on the degree of integration into Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Smart Factory solutions, the wiping robot is able to identify issues such as yarn breaks or parallel wiping processes and to independently offer solutions.

The wiping robot operates in a cross-line manner. Here, the wiping quality remains constant 24/7. The high wiping quality has a positive influence on both the stability of the overall process and on the yarn quality. The time saved between cleaning cycles is a further advantage: using the robots, the interval between two wiping processes can be extended by up to 25%. The considerable increase in the spinning process efficiency achieved by the wiping robot also has a positive impact on margins. For example, one customer deploying the wiping robot was able to reduce its production costs for the same yarn by more than 3%.

Baldwin Technology Company Inc. will be offering two virtual opportunities for customers to learn more about the company’s innovative non-contact spray finishing systems. These technologies will be showcased in October during an in-depth webinar event, as well as during the Innovate Textile and Apparel Virtual Trade Show.

The interactive and free webinar “How to Deliver Sustainability with Non-Contact Spray” will be held twice on October 13, with a recording provided for all who register for later viewing. During this event, industry veteran Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s Business Development Leader for textiles, will discuss the sustainable functionality of the Precision Spray and Ahlbrandt Rotor Spray technologies.

The Innovate Textile and Apparel Virtual Trade Show will take place online October 15 to 30. In Baldwin’s virtual booth, the company will showcase its non-contact spray systems for finishing and remoistening. Its TexCoat G4, TexMoister G2 and Ahlbrandt Rotor Spray technologies are designed to save chemistry, time and production costs, while enabling sustainable textile production.

“We are excited to present our revolutionary non-contact spray systems during the webinar and the virtual Innovate Textile and Apparel show,” said Stanford. “Participants will learn how non-contact spray has become a game-changing technology in sustainable textile finishing. It dramatically cuts chemical waste and energy consumption, while increasing productivity and quality. We will show attendees how our systems work and in what applications they are ideal for, as well as take questions. These are great opportunities to experience innovations that drastically improve both the process and product quality, while saving time and chemistry, and contributing to a more sustainable future.”

• Fabric finishing and sanforization systems installed in the US and Turkey to enhance productivity

ST. LOUIS - Baldwin Technology Company Inc. has successfully installed six new fabric finishing and sanforizing precision spray systems in the US and Turkey. Despite the COVID-19 pandemic, the installations were completed in just 60 days, thanks to close collaboration between onsite Baldwin textile team members, local agents and remote support from the company’s product and technology center in Sweden.
For textiles, non-wovens and technical textiles, Baldwin’s precision spray technology processes a wide range of low-viscosity water-based chemicals, such as softeners, anti-microbial agents, water repellents, oil  repellents, flame retardants and more.

These systems enable fabric producers to significantly reduce chemical and water consumption, while speeding up production times and eliminating production steps, including drying and bath changeovers when switching fabric colors. “Our customers are major manufacturers in fabric dying, finishing and remoistening, and we want to provide outstanding service and support—even in times like this,” said Rick Stanford, Business Development Leader at Baldwin and the commercial leader of the US installations. “Not only does our precision spray technology enhance productivity in their process, but there is also zero waste, which goes hand-in-hand with the increased sustainability focus in the textile industry.”

In North Carolina, two new TexCoat G4 precision spray systems are now in production with major international vertical manufacturers of outdoor living, performance fabrics and automotive fabrics. In Georgia, a major vertical manufacturer of workwear and protective fabrics installed a sanfor precision spray system, which has helped the customer obtain deeper penetration of moisture into fabrics treated with durable water repellents. In Turkey, three new TexCoat G4 systems were installed in Çorlu, northwest of Istanbul, for a large producer of knit fabrics, such as T-shirts. “In Turkey, the manufacturer purchased and installed one TexCoat G4 system before COVID-19, and the customer was so pleased with the results that, during the pandemic, three more were purchased,” said Simone Morellini, Sales Manager- EMEAR at Baldwin and the commercial leader of the Turkish installations. “The systems were manufactured and installed during the lockdown, and now, all four systems are up and running, and being used heavily on a daily basis.” “With the success we have seen, we plan to apply the same strategies for upcoming installations, including the next one in Honduras: strong local management and customer coordination, combined with  effective remote support during the installation,” said Stanford.

• Gorilla Protect is a new company formed in May this year to promote the Catus face mask – a major leap forward in the effectiveness of personal protection products that are available to consumers in the fight against Covid-19.
• Behind Catus and the new company is Nova Textil, the established fabric finishing company based in Grefrath, Germany, and now run by father and son team Rainer and Oliver Hurtz.

Single stenter

Rainer Hurtz founded Nova Textil with a single Monforts Montex stenter and just five employees in 1999 and has steered its constant development and growth over the past twenty years.

“Our initial focus was on the coating of mainly glass fibre fabrics, awnings and sun protection products for outdoor furnishings,” he said. “We had a great customer who was providing us with so many orders that by 2005 we took the decision to order a second Montex stenter, in a special configuration. This also allowed us to enter the market for blackout and digital printing fabrics. We’ve had a great ongoing relationship with Monforts from the beginning.”

A third Montex stenter line was installed at the company’s Grefrath plant in 2015, by which time the company had grown to 40 people and a major new market had opened up in the supply of fabrics for promotional materials at exhibitions and trade shows.

“We had a fantastic two years in 2018 and 2019 and everything was going great for the first three months of this year, but in April it all came crashing down,” said Oliver Hurtz. “Coronavirus put an end to trade shows in 2020, which had a very serious impact on our business.”

At the same time, however, the company was exploring the potential of a new biocidal product from one of its chemicals suppliers which has both antiviral and antimicrobial properties.

Filtration

“We had already been producing coated fabrics for hot gas filtration and realised that in combination with this new microporous coating we had the basis for a very effective single-layer face mask,” Rainer said. “Achieving this with a single layer product rather than the usual three has resulted in a significant advance in comfort for the wearer and because the mask is able to disinfect itself and helps regulate humidity, it can be worn a number of times without needing to be washed, for greater convenience. It only needs to be washed when it gets dirty and can also be washed up to twenty times without losing its properties, which has to be preferable to single-use disposables.”

Catus face masks are based on 100% woven cotton and the active ingredients in the finish are a reaction mass of titanium dioxide and silver chloride certified to ISO 20743 for their antibacterial effect, and to ISO 18184 for their antiviral effect.

They are proven to  eliminate over  99.99% of the human coronavirus 229 E, with the multiplication of microorganisms such as germs and bacteria prevented by the biostatic action of silver salts and viruses destroyed by oxygen-releasing substances and a mechanism that attacks their fatty envelope. The virus membrane loses its cholesterol content and the virus is inactivated.

Colours

Gorilla Protect next plans to make the masks available in four colours – black, Bordeaux, olive and grey – and is also working on colour branding and printing labels.

“It’s not possible to print on the surface of the mask after it has been coated, but its is possible for volume orders to be printed before the treatment,” Oliver Hurtz said.

“Face masks are going to become an established part of life in the West like they are in Asia and need to be as comfortable and convenient as possible for the wearer,” his father concluded. “With these things in mind, we believe Catus is a significant step forward.”

Optimum wool dyeing solution aligned to ZDHC MRSL standards

Singapore – Huntsman Textile Effects’ LANASOL® CE dyes, provide the industry with the sustainable alternative to after-chrome dyes for wool. LANASOL® CE dyes offer a consistent, safe and reliable dyeing process that can effectively replace chrome dyes for wool. This helps mills conform to ZDHC MRSL standards and meet the stringent requirements of global brands and retailers.
The use of Chrome VI, including Dichromate, is banned in the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL). Wool processors working for brands and retailers that have adopted ZDHC MRSL must therefore act quickly to finalize their chrome replacement developments.

Developed by Huntsman Textile Effects specifically to meet these challenges, LANASOL® CE is a state-of-the-art chrome-free dye range that allows mills to discontinue the use of after-chrome dyes. LANASOL® CE outperforms traditional after-chrome dyes across the board – at every level of dyeing and processing.

“LANASOL® CE dyes have always been recognized as the leading brand in the wool industry. Our innovative dyeing auxiliaries and successful dyeing systems with LANASOL® CE provide the highest technical performance, helping customers to protect the natural beauty of wool, achieve water, energy and time savings while rendering chrome dyes obsolete,” said Alessandro Larghi, Global Marketing Manager for Wool at Huntsman Textile Effects.

As a champion of a sustainable textile industry, Huntsman Textile Effects has long been a strong advocate for the shift away from after-chrome dyes. Huntsman Textile Effects first introduced LANASOL® CE in 1997, before the introduction of any regulation on the restricted use of dichromate.

• Kettelhack GmbH – a German leader in the dyeing and finishing of monochrome fabrics for high-quality and durable workwear and bed linen – has this year retired its existing Monforts sanforizing line after 35 years of daily service, replacing it with a new one.

The first line was installed in 1985 during a decisive time for the company.

Taking the helm in the early 1980s, Jan Kettelhack – the current CEO, owner and great grandson of Heinrich Kettelhack who founded the company back in 1874 – made a number of decisions that have secured its success over the following decades.

In 1982 Kettelhack had to vacate its existing plant in the city of Rheine due to urban development restrictions and despite a general sense of crisis in the European textile industry at that time, opted to relocate and build a new highly automated plant that was not reliant on mechanical and personnel-intensive processes. This was aligned with a greater focus on competitive international sales.

From 1986, the company’s proficiency as a specialist in solid-colour textiles led to workwear textiles becoming a bedrock of the business. Continuous investments in machinery and technical equipment have resulted in a fully integrated and rationalised single source site dedicated solely to what the company does best – the expert dyeing and finishing of textiles.

Crucial process steps

These stages in the textile value-added chain, Jan Kettelhack has observed, are crucial to the quality of a final product in workwear – whether it stands the test in everyday use, how comfortable it is, and how many washes it can withstand.

Central to this is the sanforizing process, which pre-shrinks a fabric by compressing it prior to washing. This limits any residual or further shrinkage in a made-up finished garment to less than 1%, to ensure perfect comfort and fit over an extended lifetime.

“We certainly can’t complain about the performance of the old Monfortex sanforizing line which gave us so many uninterrupted years of service, but certain spare parts for it were becoming increasingly hard to source, the control unit was becoming a little unstable and we couldn’t risk potential interruptions to our production schedule,” says Kettelhack plant manager Hendrik Pleimann. “In many ways, the new Monfortex sanforizer is much the same as the old one in terms of its mechanical reliability and robust construction, but of course today’s drives are much more efficient, and when it comes to the automation features and control units – and the data we can generate and analyse for increasing efficiency – that’s a whole new world.”

Qualitex 800

The two-metres-wide Monfortex line benefits from the latest Qualitex 800 control system which allows all parameters to be easily automated via the 24-inch colour touchscreen, including production speed, control of all fabric feed devices, rotation spray or steaming cylinder options, the width of the stretching field and the rubber belt pressure.

The integrated Compactomat system allows a continuous indication and control of the shrinkage values and the temperatures of the shrinking cylinder and felt calender. Up to 10,000 separate process parameter records can be generated and stored by the data manager.

Full line management can be optimised via the batch-specific calculation of all process material consumption and water and electricity use, with any standstill times analysed and immediately corrected for the future.

Any further assistance required is available via Monforts Teleservice, with direct connection to technicians and virtual access to machine analysis.

Professional

Commissioning of the new Monfortex line at Kettelhack commenced in January and it was fully operational in a relatively short time.

“This was a very professional installation provided by the Monforts team with whom we have a very good relationship dating back many years, and everyone knew what was required from both sides,” says Mr Pleimann. “Our operators have found the new line very user friendly and we are very pleased with how everything proceeded so smoothly. An unexpected benefit is that the new line is also a lot quieter, of course, which is something our operatives are appreciating.”

Key features of the Monfortex line are the proven fabric preparation, weft straightening and spreading units, prior to the compressive shrinkage machine with a 750mm shrinking cylinder, and a felt calender equipped with 2,000mm diameter drying cylinder. The line also features an integrated automatic grinding unit.

Customer service

Kettelhack is processing primarily cotton and polyester woven fabrics, with lyocell becoming increasingly popular in workwear for its softness and comfort.

As part of its customer service, the company stocks more than a million metres of grey fabric and at least 1.2 million metres of finished and rolled standard fabric in its warehouse at any one time, with a further 750,000 metres permanently in production.

While a significant cost, this commitment ensures Kettelhack customers can be fully flexible and rely on it as a partner.

“As a family-run company with around a hundred employees, Kettelhack operates very differently to bigger businesses which have to constantly consider their immediate quarterly profits,” Mr Pleimann concludes. “The thinking at Kettelhack is in terms of the next twenty years and ensuring that the business will be just as successful for the next generation as it is today. We also have a very flat organisational structure in which everyone is involved and takes an active part, which makes it a very nice place to work.”

Rester Oy, which is developing the plant in Paimio, recycles companies' end-of-life textiles, and Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto Oy (LSJH), which will hire a production area at the same facility, processes households' end-of-life textiles. The plant will process 12,000 tonnes of end-of-life textiles every year, which represents about 10% of Finland’s textile waste.

The textile industry’s end-of-life textile problem is intolerable. Natural resources are increasingly used to manufacture products, but these materials are lost at the end of their life cycle. About 100 million kilograms of textile waste are generated annually in Finland alone. Reusing this material could reduce the textile industry’s carbon footprint and significantly reduce the use of natural resources.

Rester Oy and LSJH will drive the textile sector towards a circular economy and begin processing textile waste as an industrial raw material. The Nordic countries’ first industrial end-of-textile refinement plant will open in Paimio in 2021. The 3,000-square-metre plant is being developed by Rester Oy, which recycles companies' end-of-life textiles and industrial waste materials. LSJH, which processes households’ end-of-life textiles on its production line, will hire part of the plant.

Outi Luukko, Rester Oy’s board chair, says, “The processing plant will begin a new era of textile circular economy in Finland. As industry pioneers, we are launching a system change in Scandinavia. The transition of the textile industry from a linear model to a circular economy is essential, as virgin materials cannot sustain the current structure of the textile industry. And why should it, when there is so much recyclable material available?”

From the perspective of Rester Oy’s main owner, work clothing supplier Touchpoint, the circular economy plant not only represents resource efficiency, but is also necessary from the perspective of the entire life cycle of a responsible work clothing collection.

Luukko adds, “Finding a local solution to a global problem is a huge leap in the right direction and raises Finland's profile as a pioneer of circular economy."

The future plant will be able to process 12,000 tonnes of end-of-life textiles annually, which represents about 10% of Finland’s textile waste. Both production lines produce recycled fibre, which can be used for various industrial applications, including yarn and fabric, insulating materials for construction and shipping industries, acoustic panels, composites, non-woven and filter materials, and other technical textiles, such as geo-textiles.

LSJH is piloting a full-scale refinement plant

LSJH has launched a pilot production line for processing households' end-of-life textiles. Unfortunately, consumers' end-of-life textiles are heterogeneous, making them a challenging raw material for further processing. Before processing, the textiles are sorted by material into various fibre classes using optical identification technology developed by LSJH and its partners. This ensures the quality of the raw material and the resulting fibre products.

Jukka Heikkilä, managing director for Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto, explains: “On the basis of the experiences gathered from the pilot project, Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto is preparing a full-scale refinement plant in the Turku region. As soon as 2023, the plant will process Finnish households' end-of-life textiles. The project involves all waste treatment plants owned by Finnish municipalities.”

Paimio has ambitious goals for circular economy companies

Rester’s initiative aims to create a circular economy cluster in Paimio that combines the processing and reuse of end-of-life textile fibres. Paimion Kehitys Oy, which is owned by the City of Paimio and the local association of enterprises, supports the development of circular economy companies in Paimio.

Mika Ingi, managing director for Paimion Kehitys Oy, says, “We want to step out of our traditional municipal role and create significant added value for everyone taking part. That is why we are involved in the development of a new modern service model based on ecosystem thinking. We are piloting the textile cluster, followed in the coming years by clusters focusing on plastic, construction, and energy. The aim of our service is to support and help develop new profitable business by bringing circular economy companies and their potential customers to innovate together."

The foundation stone of the processing plant was laid today (18 August 2020). The processing plant will begin operations in February 2021.

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"A New Eco high-tech force of Nature", a bold claim, a daring attitude and true facts. ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei has concentrated all its key values into a Nature-driven and high-tech fabric collection that respects the environment and human being.

Sustainability, active climate control, exquisite touch and extreme performance co-habit the textiles: the collection is made of wovens and knits where the main technology is represented by GRS - Global Recycle Standard certified polyamide and polyesters, sometime combined with ROICA™ recycled stretch yarns and dyed and finished with Oekotex Standard 100 certified processes and/or by BlueSign® partners’ companies.

But there is much more than it meets the eye.

Behind the new collection is a great story of sustainability.

"Our international team strives to innovate with a human-based approach to research and develop solutions that meet high-performance standards as well as the transparency and traceability of both the ingredients and the supply chain", says Mr. Hashimoto, Senior Managing Director of Asahi Kasei Advance, the global materials innovator and manufacturer.

Indeed, the company has set the high bar all its suppliers and partners must match. Such criteria include: thoroughly transparency and traceability of both materials and production, corporate responsibility at all levels and a strategic commitment granted by influential certifications such as GRS - Global Recycle Standard for recycled ingredients and processes, as well as Bluesign® and OekoTex Standard 100 certifications, which focus on environmentally-friendly impact of the dyeing and finishing processes.

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The coronavirus pandemic and its massive impact on the automotive industry led to an un-precedented market slump in the first half of 2020 and a corresponding revenue decline at Autoneum. Revenue in local currencies fell by –32.7% compared to the prior-year period, and in Swiss francs by –36.8% to CHF 730.6 million. The turnaround program for the North American sites made further progress in the first six months and is showing the targeted results. However, they were clearly overcompensated by the massive impact of the corona-virus crisis, which led to a negative net result of CHF –54.9 million despite comprehensive cost flexibilization measures.

Like the entire automobile industry, Autoneum was massively impacted by the effects of the corona-virus pandemic in the first half of the year. The temporary plant closures at almost all customers in every region, especially in the second quarter of the year, not only led to an unprecedented market collapse, but also to a production stop at all 55 Autoneum sites. Starting in February in China and one month later in all other regions, vehicle manufacturers temporarily shut down production completely. The corresponding massive drop in global vehicle production led to a slump in revenue at Autoneum of –32.7% in local currencies. This reflects the development of the market in the first half of 2020, which contracted by –33.2% year-on-year. Revenue in Swiss francs at Autoneum fell by –36.8% to CHF 730.6 million (prior-year period: CHF 1 156.1 million). Revenue development in all Business Groups outperformed the respective markets, particularly in Asia and the SAMEA (South America, Middle East and Africa) region.

 Like the entire automobile industry, Autoneum was massively impacted by the effects of the corona-virus pandemic in the first half of the year. The temporary plant closures at almost all customers in every region, especially in the second quarter of the year, not only led to an unprecedented market collapse, but also to a production stop at all 55 Autoneum sites. Starting in February in China and one month later in all other regions, vehicle manufacturers temporarily shut down production com-pletely. The corresponding massive drop in global vehicle production led to a slump in revenue at Autoneum of –32.7% in local currencies. This reflects the development of the market in the first half of 2020, which contracted by –33.2% year-on-year. Revenue in Swiss francs at Autoneum fell by –36.8% to CHF 730.6 million (prior-year period: CHF 1 156.1 million). Revenue development in all Business Groups outperformed the respective markets, particularly in Asia and the SAMEA (South America, Middle East and Africa) region.

Autoneum promptly responded to the pandemic-related market slump by adopting extensive cost-cutting measures in all regions. These include the reduction of employee costs by, among other things, adjusting time accounts, introducing short-time work at eligible locations and temporary layoffs as well as headcount reduction, mainly among temporary workers. In addition, operating expenditures were limited to the absolutely necessary. The investment volume for 2020, already reduced from previous years, was downsized even further. Autoneum continues to benefit in this regard from the high level of investments undertaken in recent years.

 Although the coronavirus crisis and the measures taken to contain it dominated Autoneum’s course of business in the first half of 2020, the Company achieved necessary operational and financial im-provements during this period. The comprehensive turnaround program for the North American sites made further progress and is on track. Efficiency improvements already achieved there had a posi-tive effect on the figures of the first half-year, but were significantly overcompensated by the substan-tial impact of the COVID-19 crisis. Savings and cost flexibilization measures taken immediately and implemented worldwide in view of the revenue loss could not offset the ongoing, capacity-related fixed costs. This led at the Group level to a negative EBIT of CHF –31.8 million (prior-year period: CHF 16.4 million), which equates to an EBIT margin of –4.4% (prior-year period: 1.4%). The net result decreased because of the severe revenue shortfall to CHF –54.9 million (prior-year period: CHF –6.0 million).

Outlook
For 2020 Autoneum expects revenue to develop at market level. Although customers’ production volumes should increase again in the second half of 2020 compared with the first semester, latest fore-casts indicate that they will remain clearly below the level of the second half of 2019. Immediately implemented and ongoing cost reduction measures as well as further operational optimizations also within the turnaround program in North America will lead to improvements in the second half of the year. Due to the current uncertainties, a reliable statement on the net result for the full year 2020 thus cannot be made. With regard to the mid-term targets, a recovery of the profitability level is expected, but it will largely depend on the market development.