From the Sector

OutDoor2018: Schoeller’s coldblack® technology has been specifically optimized for use on knitted and woven fabrics so brands can now expand their product application uses. Under the blazing sun, textiles with coldblack® heat up less and stay cool to the touch. Südwolle Group, a leading manufacturer of high quality yarns, has also recognized the ideal combination of merino and coldblack®. With this, the wear comfort of wool apparel can be tangibly improved.

Wool is well known for its various property benefits, including insulation, natural antibacterial protection, odor control, light weight and nearly wrinkle free composition. Not only in the winter time, but also in summer particularly merino wool, a special high-quality type of wool, regulates moisture balance and thus the body temperature. The fibers can absorb a great deal of moisture or sweat and transport it away from the body. Warm ambient air quickly dries the material and causes a cooling evaporation, which makes it very comfortable to wear merino apparel in the summer time.

coldblack® technology from Schoeller supports the natural properties of wool because it reliably reduces heat build-up when exposed to the sun. Together with the help of Südwolle Group, the finish has been optimized specifically for the use in merino apparel. The yarn manufacturer chooses coldblack® for a variety of uses, especially for knitting and weaving yarns for sports and outdoor apparel and develops such products individually according to its customers’ requirements.

Stéphane Thouvay, Managing Director Product Management & Innovation at Südwolle Group, summarizes the use of the technology as follows: “coldblack® is part of our product range for the summer time, which we will be presenting at OutDoor show in Friedrichshafen. The technology reduces not only heat build-up, but also enhances the natural UV protection of wool without affecting the look and feel of the fabric. Therefore coldblack® perfectly fits into our yarn selection for sports and outdoor apparel, for example in our collection ʻYarn in Motion’. For end consumers garments made of coldblack® yarns can optionally be labeled with hangtags.”

When used in high-quality woolen fabrics, coldblack® has already proven its performance and is being used by renowned brands in various collections of men’s suits. Since 2008, the technology has been licensed by more than 200 brands, in sports particularly in the field of cycling, triathlon and golf. All components of the finish are bluesign® approved.

• Fibres for automotive composites, technical textiles, hygiene and medical nonwovens
• UltraLink fibres offer sustainable system cost reduction solutions to the automotive industry
• Meralux offers improved liquid management for a dry feeling
• Stand 2034, ANEX 2018, 6-8 June, Tokyo Big Sight, Japan

Beaulieu Fibres International, the leading European polyolefin fibre supplier, marks its Asia Nonwovens Exhibition and Conference (ANEX) debut with unique products and capabilities to support innovation at a local level within the automotive and hygiene segments.

At Stand 2034, Beaulieu Fibres International demonstrates its commitment to the global market growth for automotive composites and technical textiles, as interest increases in adopting lightweight materials to reduce vehicle weight and fuel efficiency.

The company will present UltraLink bonding fibres that improve the mechanical, thermal and functional properties of the final part, allowing customers to meet OEM specific standards in a more sustainable way. They are available in both MONO and BICO technology – a first for the composites industry.

Jefrem Jennard, Global Sales Director – Industrial Fibres, comments: “Beaulieu Fibres International developed UltraLink fibres over the past two years to provide an answer to the automotive industry’s continuous strive for lower weight, lower emission, lower cost and better properties. They are being introduced in new global automotive programmes with SOP 2019-2021. We are delighted to introduce them to the Asian market at ANEX.”

At ANEX 2018, Beaulieu Fibres International also presents its platform of unique Meralux fibres offering significant improvements to the dryness of nonwoven for hygiene and medical applications. The BICO fibre has a special cross section, which enables it to provide bulk, opacity and enhanced fluid management compared to standard round fibres to nonwoven constructions. As a result, a dry feeling is achieved for the final nonwoven.

Petra Bohle-Stricker, Global Sales Director – Hygiene Fibres, comments: “As Asia Pacific heads towards becoming the largest regional tissue and hygiene market by the end of 2025  , nonwovens producers can already take advantage of the benefits of Meralux to launch new and innovative products that will grab the attention of global and local manufacturers. Visitors to our ANEX booth can experience Meralux fibres first-hand in nonwoven samples.”

Since Meralux was first launched in April 2017, the portfolio has expanded to include Meralux T and Meralux Soft. Beaulieu Fibres International is currently expanding its production programme with polyester-core (PET) BICO. In addition a pilot line for new developments is under construction. Both are expected to come on stream in 2018.

At Kingpins Amsterdam, RUDOLF GROUP launches a selection of chemical auxiliaries for fashion and function as well their new HUB 1922.
The RUDOLF GROUP, not completely new to garment and denim finishing, decides to take the first steps of what will be a long and exciting journey in the field. In order to shorten the distance with both manufacturers and apparel brands and retailers it deploys two synergic initiatives:

• A refined selection of chemicals auxiliaries targeting garment finishing and delivering, in addition to current aesthetics, sophisticated functionalities that take denim to the next level in terms of both performance and enhanced quality.
• The launch of a new project that, combining German engineering and Italian style, provides solutions at the crossroad of fashion and utilitarian functionality. The project, called HUB 1922, introduces elements of unorthodox diversity and fosters collaborative environments that can be truly disruptive.

The word HUB is evocative of the main part of something where there is most activity, whereas the number, 1922, is the year of foundation of the RUDOLF GROUP and therefore symbol of heritage, tradition and significant experience. Ultimately, HUB 1922 wants to be the unmatched one-stop shopping for fashion and function, innovation and creativity in garment processing. A hub that enables continuous, synergetic, and powerful collaboration with brands and retailers to deliver disruptive innovations in the global markets.

It introduces functional chemistry in an universe that is almost entirely driven by aesthetics and the extension to other materials and product categories (such as outdoor apparel and performance wear), of knowledge and techniques developed for denim over the past 50 years. Very aware of its status of rookie and yet very determined, the project HUB 1922 begins exploring through concepts and values rooted in deep scientific knowledge, true responsibility, technical innovation and fresh creativity.
At Kingpins Amsterdam, HUB 1922 will present 3 concepts rooted in RUDOLF’s sophisticated and conscious chemistry:

• ODYSSEY: a voyage through textures and innovation, softness, comfort and signature handfeels.
• SHELTER: performance inspired by natural models for urban protection and for much reduced domestic washing.
• MEMOFLEX: A modern-day miracle preventing denim from sagging and bagging. A truly denim Botox that shows improved quality on many stretch fabrics.

Since when it was founded, almost 100 years ago, RUDOLF GROUP’s secret of success is being big enough to matter, small enough to care. Captured in this definition are an obvious desire to play a meaningful role in the textile industry and an equally palpable vocation to customer service.

Alberto de Conti, Head of Rudolf Fashion Division: “Every generation has their time to make a mark on the world. Considering the environmental emergencies in garment production and the lack of real innovation on the retail shelves, for the current generation of companies active in garment finishing that time is now.”

RUDOLF GROUP acknowledges therefore that there is an additional opportunity to responsibly further redefine the future and turns their sizeable R&D power towards refining their approach to what is fashion quintessential staple: garment and denim finishing. Through a renewed, highly responsible involvement in garment finishing and with the introduction of HUB 1922, the RUDOLF GROUP wants to send out a message of true optimism. It is about showing the entire industry that there is a blank canvas ahead and tangible difference can be made.

Idéal Fibres & Fabrics Comines received the Textile Industry Award during the award ceremony of the “Trophées de l’Industrie des Hauts-de-France” (Trophies of the Industries of Hauts-de-France) which is hosted each year by the Société Industrielle du Nord. These trophies reward companies who are selected by trade and pooling associations based on their exemplary performance, innovations and achievements in an area of specialty which is different each year.

Idéal Fibres & Fabrics Comines (IFFC), a subsidiary of the Belgian Beaulieu International Group of companies, announced today that it was awarded the Textile Industry Award, which is one of the Trophies of the Industries of Hauts-de-France. The award ceremony took place on the 29th of March of this year at the Cité des Échanges of Marcq en Baroeul, France. Michiel Leys, Manufacturing Manager for Europe and General Manager of the production site, and Loïc Derôme, Operations Manager at IFCC, attended the ceremony and received the prize in person.

As part of the Industry Week, the ceremony is each year a time of exchange, optimism and encouragement to flagship companies of the industrial trades.
Idéal Fibres & Fabrics Comines’ production site has been based in the North since 1993 and manufactures high quality polypropylene and polyamid based textured yarns for applications in the automotive, and commercial and residential building sectors. “We regularly invest in technology on the one hand, and in safety, security and working conditions on the other”, says Loïc Derôme, Operations Manager at IFCC. “For the past two years, we have invested around for million euros and, this year, we are in the on-going process of further developing our manufacturing resources to meet the technical needs of the market and to increase the safety of our site.”

“We have selected IFCC because of its significant surface, but also because it is a French company belonging to a Belgian group, who decided to build on France as a country”, adds Eric Mezin, Délégué Général UIT Nord. Such attributes as open-mindedness, strong focus on sustainable development and effective communication efforts in view of attracting new talents, including among older, more experienced people, are but a few of the multiple aspects that accounts for the election of IFFC as an award-winner.

Montalvo, international specialists in web tension control, announces its newest product offering, Axial Activated Core Chucks. As part of their “Defender Series Core Chucks,” the Montalvo Axial Activated Core Chuck is designed for shaft-less unwinding and rewinding applications requiring maximum roll/core gripping and/or utilizing floor pick up.
The Defender Axial Activated (DAA) Core Chucks, sometimes referred to as lug chucks, are cost effective, rugged, and durable core chucks capable of withstanding even the dustiest environments while being simple to utilize.
An exclusive “safe lock” model expands the capabilities of the AA core chucks even further by resolving any potential risk of the core not fully tightening and ensuring the roll is always perfectly concentric. Cores are engaged as a result of radial lug expansion as the core is loaded into the chuck, ensuring maximum grip so you can Achieve More.

Montalvo’s Director of Sales and Marketing, Bryon Williams says, “Our new axial activated chucks and total Defender series of core chucks gives our customers a superior product offering in performance, quality, cost, safety, and service life. Axial activated chucks are a cost-effective way to “defend” against core damage, extending their service life while maintaining the highest levels of safety. The drop-in replacement design ensures no additional installation requirements for customers looking to upgrade their current core chucks.”

Additional DAA Core Chuck features include:
•    Rapid Expansion Jaws - ensure secure roll control immediately upon engagement
•    Dual Core Models - for processes utilizing multiple core sizes - one chuck, two core sizes
•    E-Flange™ Option - eliminates operator interaction in removing cores while making core ejection fast and easy; reducing risk of jammed cores
•    Photocell Ready™ Option - allows use of photocell or other sensors
•    Customer Specified Mounting Holes - ready for immediate installation upon delivery
•    Several Finishes Available - Black Oxide standard, Nickel Plating optional
•    Drop-In Replacement Design - for easy upgrading of existing installations

About Montalvo
Since 1947 the Montalvo Corporation has specialized in manufacturing, integrating, retrofitting and servicing a wide range of tension control products for a variety of industries including, converting, paper, film, foil, nonwovens, plastic, corrugated, packaging, medical, composite and more. Montalvo’s products include load cells, tension controllers, tension indicators, amplifiers, tension control brakes and clutches, sensors, safety chucks, and core chucks. Montalvo has four worldwide offices in the USA, Denmark, Germany & China. http://www.montalvo.com

For the first time at FILO Milano, Filatura C4 is proud to present, in addition to the already established Re.Verso™ collection for contract, the Blue Drop winning fabric by Audejas, made with Re.Verso™ re-engineered wool. A result born from the shared commitment and vision to integrate a new generation of eco values into their circular economy creations.

Since 1962, Filatura C4 has been known for smart innovation in furnishing contract markets and is now specializing in the recovery of both technical and natural fibers. The company offers a wide range of styles and typologies of yarns for the Technical, Natural and Classic categories. From the choice of raw materials up until the final packaging, Filatura C4 develops and proposes, together with its partners, tailored solutions apt to satisfy a diversified demand. Thanks to its background and its grounding, Filatura C4 is a unique partner for Re.Verso™ in the contract sector.

The collection was planned to satisfy the market’s increasingly more specific needs, which require increased specialization and responsibility in the recovery of textile fabrics. Thanks to the Re.Verso™ system, the company offers quality products with low environmental impact through the use of pre-consumer wool packaging cuts which are collected, selected and processed in an accredited, fully transparent and traceable way. The Re.Verso™ collection is mainly employed in contract and home furnishing.

The Re.Verso™ product is available in a range of counts going from 5,000 to 9,500 Nm and it can be supplied both in singles and in twisted plies.  Re.VersoTM yarns by Filatura C4 are certified by ICEA (Environmental and Ethical Certification Institute) according to GRS (Global Recycled Standard) issued by the international body Textile Exchange and can boast unique savings (in comparison to virgin wool) in terms of energy (-27%), water consumption (-53%), and CO2 emissions (-49%), as certified by the LCA (Life Cycle Assessment) study led by Prima Q.

At Filo, Filatura C4 presents the prizewinning product signed by Audejas, leading Lithuanian producer of upholstery and home textile fabrics since 1946, made for the 75% of wool (55% Re.Verso™ wool) in mix with 20% polyamide and 5% other fibres. This product received the Blue Drop Award on the second day of MoOD 2017. MoOD Brussels is an exhibition dedicated to producers of upholstery, window and wall coverings for the residential and contract market. The Blue Drop exhibition is an inspiring overview of the “best of the best” of what you can find at MoOD selected from creations submitted by exhibitors. Unique in its own way because it is the world’s only quality label of its kind for interior textiles. The “Floris” fabric by Audejas, won the first prize of the Circular Material category, being recognized as a  product that made great effort reducing waste by focusing on eco-centric materials.

At Milano Unica, as key inspiring article, ILUNA presented an exclusive and elegant lace long dress, created in collaboration with Valery, starting from an all over textronic ultralight lace with a complex organic design completely made of recycled materials, using ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, a world-first range of responsible made premium stretch yarns, demonstrating, once more, how the two leading innovators continue their close partnership to present the most “advanced” and responsible solutions to the market today.

Nevertheless, for ILUNA smart innovation is not just a project even, at its space at Milano Unica visitors will had the opportunity to discover the new collection and also to experience and touch the latest boundaries of lace smart innovations. This season novelties include:

1. Green Label collection, the Iluna dedicated range featuring a new responsible approach in respect of the planet and people, able to deliver innovation, beauty and quality, at 360°. This season, in addition to the all over, jacquard, double jacquard and mesh offer, the line is also featuring  new stretch Galloon laces fully made with GRS certified recycled  materials, including the stretch thanks to the introduction of the unique ROICA™ sustainable yarn part of the ROICA™ Eco-Smart family. 
2. ILUNA is also proud to introduce a worldwide première: Eco- Smart family made of sustainable yarns allover laces made with NAIA cellulosic fiber by Eastmann combined with ROICA™ premium stretch sustainable yarn   realized on warp knitting jacquard looms. A unique innovation, with an interesting look & feel combined with a special softness!  
3. ILUNA has strategically included in all their stretch laces only ROICA™ Eco-Smart family of sustainable yarns since some time. The company is pleased to introduce the latest version of this yarns that are able to deliver 3 functions in one:  premium stretch, sustainability combined with the ROICA™ Colour Perfect family function offering excellent flawless and world unique colour dimensions, homogeneity.
4. For the salon, another première:  in cooperation with ROICA™ and Cupro by Asahi Kasei, Iluna is pleased to introduce ‘Smart Bucket Bag’ as a  special  limited edition gift. In origin, this was a roomy bag shaped like a bucket taller than it is wide with a rounded bottom. It first came to fashion in the 1900's, from a pouch with a string and a hardened bottom. Federica Annovazzi idea started from the traditional shape, but it went way beyond and imade it contemporary by smart materials and manufacturing. A beautifully crafted ‘double face recipe’ made  combining a luxurious Cupro fabric by Infinity with an Iluna stretch Double face Smart Bucket bag lace designed and produced with ROICA™ Eco-Smart family of sustainable yarns. The bag is manufactured exclusively by Made in Carcere a cooperative of women in rehabilitation, so creating a useful social exchange as well as a responsible and smart one. The Made in Carcere brand was founded in 2007, thanks to Luciana Delle Donne, founder of Officina Creativa, a non-profit social cooperative.
5. ILUNA can also boast its new STeP (Sustainable Textile Production) certification by Oeko-Tex, a certification that clarifies and communicates the company’s sustainable production commitment. In addition to this, all products are Oeko-Tex 100 certified.

ILUNA’s newest digital programs:

• ILUNA has created the new e-shop offering its exclusive materials to smaller companies looking for added values as: creativity, innovation, made in Italy and responsibility. 
• The whole collection is also visible online at its web site, previous registration, and orders can be done directly online always aiming to customers care.

Today ILUNA represents the largest European lace producer, and thanks to its journey toward the most contemporary way to innovate that includes responsibility, has also become a reference point in the international market for a lace offer that is beautiful, innovative and responsible at the same time. An alchemy of design and sustainable innovation, the only eco-fashion line that includes lace and stockings, capable of combining ethics and high quality standards with a fashion image of bright and deep colors. 

DyStar and RotaSpray successfully developed their indigo spray dyeing procedure for production on a bulk level which allows denim producers to significantly reduce their environmental impact.

The solution was first introduced at ITMA Milan in 2015. Since then, DyStar and RotaSpray have been working together to develop it further and make it available for bulk production in important Denim markets like Turkey, India and Pakistan. With the recent breakthrough, they are now announcing a salt-less dyeing solution for the denim industry. This new technology is awarded important ECO certificates and offers high flexibility for dyeing small lot sizes, reduced water usage and effluent discharge lower impact on yarn in the dyeing process and simplified recipe changes.

The new Spray dyeing technology combines DyStar Indigo Vat 40% Solution, Sera® Con C-RDA (a unique organic reducing agent) and the effective optimization of spraying parameters of the EPO patented RotoDyer® and the RotoCoater® spraying technology. Although rotary atomizers have been established for several decades in the textile industry they were mainly used for rewetting textiles with moisture. But recent cost pressure and a global demand for more sustainable solutions were motivators for the R&D of the industry and led to the recent technology leap.

On sheet dyeing ranges (slasher), with process and layout modifications, coatings including DyStar Indigo Coat, Cassulfon®, Remazol®/Levafix® and Imperon® dyes can be applied by spray dyeing as well. The spray application of fixing agents and oxidation chemicals can be integrated into sheet dyeing (slasher) as well as rope dyeing machines.

Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, is pleased to announce the appointment of Holger Max-Lang as Managing Director of Lectra Central & Eastern Europe region, Russia. Holger Max-Lang is based in Ismaning, near Munich, Germany.

Central & Eastern Europe and Russia is a strategic region for Lectra, offering strong potential in the Group’s main market sectors thanks to: a robust automotive industry; a dynamic furniture industry, especially in Germany and Poland; and a close connection between fashion brands in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and suppliers in Eastern Europe.

Holger Max-Lang will focus on delivering Lectra’s customer-focused strategy to empower fashion & apparel, automotive and furniture businesses to succeed as they embrace Industry 4.0. Anchored in the digitalization of industrial processes, from design to production, Industry 4.0 is redefining how factories are organized; smart and connected, they are driving the value chain, propelling a new digitalized lifecycle for products. 

“The transformation to Industry 4.0 is in full swing: the Industrial Internet of Things, Software as a Service (SaaS), cloud technology, data analyses and data exploitation have become key,” underlines Daniel Harari, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, Lectra. “Working for Lectra for over 15 years, Holger has a deep experience and knowledge of Lectra’s DNA, and is in a very strong position to support our customers in the digitalization of their processes.”

“Industry 4.0. started in Germany. Therefore, many companies are keen to adopt its principles in our region. Lectra is very well-positioned to support our customers in their transformation,“ says Holger Max-Lang. “In my role, I am looking forward to a growing dialogue with our customers and prospects, to bring them a full understanding of the expertise we have built - and are building. We will leverage this expertise to boost our customers’ competitiveness and generate higher added-value for their businesses.”

Following marketing and sales positions in the IT and automotive industry sectors, Holger joined Lectra Germany in September 2002 as a salesperson for automotive accounts. He then held diverse sales’ roles in the region, including the position of Sales Manager for all Lectra markets in Central & Eastern Europe region, Russia. Since September 2017 Holger has held the role of Business Development Director, Automotive, with the responsibility to develop the leather cutting activity worldwide.

Gorham, ME, USA – Montalvo, international specialists in web tension control, has promoted Bryon Williams to Director of Sales and Marketing. Mr. William’s will oversee Montalvo’s North America sales efforts, and global marketing strategy with an emphasis on building relationships within existing and new industries, managing Montalvo’s internal and external sales team, and continuing to further Montalvo’s marketing strategy. Previously Mr. Williams worked as Montalvo’s Global Marketing Manager.

Montalvo’s CEO Robin Goodwin says “Bryon has been with Montalvo since 2010, during which time he has shaped and elevated our global branding and marketing strategy while helping to manage our product portfolio. Bryon is highly committed to delivering excellence both internally and externally, directly benefitting our customers and his colleagues. He will bring this commitment and dedication to his new role, to grow Montalvo even further.”

Before Montalvo, Mr. Williams specialized in customer communication and marketing coordination at JobsintheUS.com and Sunday River Ski Resort. Mr. Williams attended Bryant University and earned a Bachelor’s in Business Administrant in Marking and Communication and is currently earning his Masters of Business Administration in Leadership from Saint Joseph’s College of Maine.