From the Sector

2050 is the year when adidas plans to achieve climate neutrality. It’s also the year when it’s expected that our oceans will contain more plastic than fish, that is, if we don’t act now. Adidas' solution to help end plastic waste and achieve climate neutrality? Sustainable innovation.

Last year adidas announced the Three Loop Strategy – their roadmap to help end plastic waste. At the heart of this is Circular Loop – Made To Be Remade.

The concept behind Made To Be Remade (MTBR) is simple: when one piece of plastic has fulfilled its purpose, it must be remade to fulfil another. Their attitude is that the end of one thing equates to the beginning of the next, and that their products’ lives can be extended by remaking them into new products.

Adidas' Circular Loop creation process has come a long way since they introduced FUTURECRAFT.LOOP – their first running shoe made to be remade – in 2019. From what started as a beta program of just 200 pairs has developed into a concept within the business that spans across multiple categories and in April this year saw the first commercial launch – Ultraboost Made To Be Remade.

Ultraboost Made To Be Remade will see the next generation released in November this year (2021). The shoe will be created in part from the previous generation. Featuring a torsion bar that contains 25% reused content from the Futurecraft Loop Gen 2.

W21 will see another adidas icon join the MTBR family - Stan Smith Made To Be Remade. Just like the Ultraboost model, Stan Smith MTBR has been created entirely from TPU – from laces to midsole and everything in between.

Adidas’s best-loved Outdoor products are also receiving the MTBR treatment. Alongside Stan Smith MTBR, October will welcome the TERREX Free Hiker Made To Be Remade, featuring a TPU knitted upper and TPU outsole, making it the first TERREX hiking shoe to use the technology. The shoe will be accompanied by the launch of the TERREX Made To Be Remade Anorak – their second-generation prototype following on from the FW20 FUTURECRAFT.LOOP Anorak, which will be commercially available in 2022.

• From C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021 to Special Project at WHITE Milan, the streetstyle Portuguese brand shows urban outfits for everyday heroes fighting for the environment, with a holistic approach to sustainability

After being rewarded with the 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award, the Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to present its Spring/Summer 2022 collection developed with C.L.A.S.S. ecohub support. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte has worked in close contact with the Milanese hub in order to create a 40 pieces collection where the approach to materials, suppliers, new business models and communication could include and support a holistic view of the sustainable values aligned with style, performances, look and touch and Duarte identity.

The inspiration behind the collection is the superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog, an English Cocker Spaniel - which is the World Keeper fighting against the environmental issues mankind has generated. Like a protector of sustainability, it battles modern monsters as Smog Man, Fire Man, Deforestation Man and Wave man, who respectively represent the issues of air pollution, climate change, forest destruction and water overconsumption. A very simple, direct and engaging way of talking about hot topics and simple, direct solutions.

The collection is made of 20 outfits, mainly unisex apart from some of them typically feminine as the crop tops. Hints of bright red and mustard yellow are alternated with denim, grey and pale azure tones, blending in with the colorful prints. Accents of black - used in inserts or as piping - seem to emphasize the outline of the garments. The different textures of the materials create a sense of movement, further enhanced by the unique patterns. All the garments’ prints are exclusively designed by the designer, following each collection inspiration: this time, they recall urban landscapes and the appeal of big metropolis, with Tadao as protagonist in prints, patches and ankle socks.

Among the most representative Duarte outfits we find:

• A matching sweater with trousers made of Newlife™, a yarn 100% made In Italy coming only from post- consumer, traceable plastic bottles.
• A unisex oversized bomber is crafted from Newlife™, lined with precious 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami and matched with printed neoprene hoodie and shorts.
• Long-panelled unisex coat and trousers made with ReLAST® denim by Candiani, a responsible textile featuring a premium recycled stretch yarn, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei. The coat is lined with a fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami in 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter.
• The same sustainable stretch yarn is implied in the responsible tulle by Iluna Group, and featured in a shorts and top women’s ensemble, paired with a neoprene printed bomber. The tulle is skillfully matched with 100% Tencel™ back in the loop fabric by Maeba International underneath it.

Ana Duarte is part of a new generation of designers with a new approach to sourcing and production: her research goes into different kind of business models to fit her responsible innovation and style needs at the same time. That’s why in her collection we can find amazing and unique combination of organic, recycled, Back in The Loop, innovative materials that are the right choice for the look&touch and the performance she’s looking for. The result is cool yet respecting people and the environment in full traceability thanks to certified and sometimes even circular solutions. Working with components from various sources and business models requires a certain expertise and a particular sensibility we find in Ana Duarte’s design solutions and in her responsible interpretation of streetwear.

• JUMBO-Textil offers elastic high-tech braids – produced on high-tech systems

Developing narrow textile solutions for our customers – quickly, flexibly and precisely – that is our claim. For us and for our technology. Because first-class industrial solutions require first-class technology. Highly automated and digitally controlled. Technology like that found in our variation braider from Herzog – the high-performer among modern braiding machines. JUMBO-Textil is the first narrow textile manufacturer ever to produce elastic hole cords on the special system.

High-performance system for extremely stable textile components
The special system combines sophisticated bobbin lace technology with digital control and thus enables the production of highly complex, individually specifiable braided structures. The variation braider's technology ensures an uninterrupted fibre course across all branches. This not only allows individual, idiosyncratic geometries, it also and above all helps with the stability of the components. This is because where other methods create branching points that are susceptible to breakage due to laser cutting, seams or knots, the variation braider simply braids through the branched strands. As the fibre course is not interrupted in braided branches, the resilience of the textiles is significantly increased. And individual braids are created for very different applications.

Bobbin lace technology for highly complex structures
Unlike in classical braiding systems, the impellers of the variation braider are arranged in a square. Up to eight different strands can be braided and interlaced with the textile all-rounder. All bobbins can be programmed separately and thus the bobbin lanes can be combined variably and individually. JUMBO-Textil also produces tubular braids with precisely defined braided openings, triaxial braids and highly complex preforms with the variation braider. The geometries of the narrow textiles range all the way to net structures. For braided cables, we create stable connections in the core-sheath braiding by weaving the core and the protective sheathing, which provides protection especially at the turns: there is no longer any undesired core and sheath slippage.

Individual braid architectures – for automotive, outdoor and more
Complex non-elastic cords from the variation braider have been in operation at JUMBO-Textil for a long time. For hole cords – or bifurcation cords (from the Latin: furca, the fork) – the bobbin points are individually programmed so that the arrangement and length of the branching precisely meet the requirements. It is used, among others, in the automotive sector, in the construction industry and in the outdoor sector to hang or unhang elements without using metal.

Elastic hole cord from the elastics specialist
The elastic hole braids by JUMBO-Textil are new on the market. "The variation braider offers us fantastic possibilities: we can pre-configure what we want to braid and are completely free to do so. The repeat is computer-controlled," explains Holger Vehring, Project Engineer at JUMBO-Textil. "A seamless braided cable harness tubular that organises the cable mess (for automotive), braided hoses with defined openings for conductive elements in smart textiles or rehab applications, as tensioning elements in backpacks or functional clothing – the possible applications are vast. Thanks to this technology, textile – i.e. lighter, quieter and more flexible – components can be used for numerous applications in which metallic materials were previously used due to the fragile branching points."

Global energy consumption reached a record high in 2019, following a 40-year trend for rapidly increasing energy demand that was only halted by the Coronavirus pandemic. It’s estimated that more than 80 % of this energy is still generated from fossil fuels that produce CO2 emissions and contribute to climate change. Renewable energy offers a solution to this problem, but saving energy whenever possible is an even more effective approach. That are the motives for Trützschler to develop the intelligent card TC 19i, which sets a new benchmark for energy-efficient carding.

The intelligent Trützschler card TC 19i features the unique T-GO gap optimizer, which continuously and automatically monitors and adjusts the carding gap to an ideal position during production. Innovative drive- and air technology further reduce energy consumption of the TC 19i.

The most energy-intensive elements in a carding machine are the drive, the dust suction process and the compressed air system. Permanent suction is needed to remove dust and cotton waste in key places. Smart optimization of these areas has made the intelligent card TC 19i a benchmark for energy efficiency in carding because it uses less electricity, lower suction pressure and less compressed air than other machines, while providing the highest production rates currently available on the market.

In a head-to-head comparison between the TC 19i and a high-performance card from a competitor, the TC 19i consumed at least 10 % less energy per kilogram of material produced when manufacturing rotor yarn from a cotton and cotton waste mix. The compared energy values included electric power consumption and energy required for suction and compressed air and were measured in both cards at the same production of 180 kg/h. A 10 % reduction in energy per kilogram of sliver produced, as proven here by TC 19i, can have a significant impact on a spinning mill’s profitability; annual savings worth a five-digit sum are frequently possible, depending on factors such as the output of the mill. The customer trial also showed TC 19i’s excellent reliability at the customer’s usual production rate of 180 kg/h, and even demonstrated stable performance at 300 kg/h in the same application. Because the TC 19i with T-GO gap optimizer realizes maximum production rates at no compromise in quality, manufacturers can reduce their energy demand and investment costs drastically: Less machines are needed to achieve the desired output, and energy consumption per production is reduced.

This improvement was made possible by a long and sometimes challenging innovation process involving mathematical models of air flows, as well as flow simulations and prototypes. By combining the final flowoptimized parts in the TC 19i, Trützschler’s experts have developed a card that operates with suction pressure of just -740 Pa and with an air requirement of only 4200 m³/h. This translates into 40 % less energy demand for air technology compared to the latest high-performance competitor model.

• In 2021 Pedex GmbH in Affolterbach was nominated for the ‘Großen Preis des Mittelstandes’ (a business award for small and medium sized companies).

The ‘Großen Preis des Mittelstandes‘ award has been the single most popular business award in Germany since 1994. This award isn’t just about numbers, jobs or innovation but the business as a whole. Every November, the Oskar-Patzelt-foundation invites nominations of medium-sized companies for the competition from communities, associations, organisations and companies. The nomination can be for medium-sized companies from the industrial, commercial, service and trade sectors.

The businesses are evaluated according to 5 competition criteria:

• Overall development of the business
• Creation and safeguarding of jobs and apprenticeships
• Modernisation and innovation
• Involvement in the region
• Service and customer focus, marketing

The winner and the finalists are decided by twelve regional juries and a final jury. In each competition region there can be three prize winners selected from five finalists. The official announcement was made on 18th September 2021 at a Gala evening in Würzburg. Jakob Jonsson (CCO) received the prize on behalf of Pedex GmbH, a prize winner for Hesse. Pedex GmbH is looking forward to the announcement of the national winner which is taking place in Dresden on 30th October 2021.

• JEC Forum DACH: a primising agenda highlighting composites innovatioon in the region

September 7, 2021 - JEC Forum DACH's primary goal is to promote the region DACH area's dynamic composites ecosystem through a promising program that includes conferences, startup competition, and awards. The first edition of the JEC DACH Forum, unique in its format and content, will occur in the Forum of Messe Frankfurt from November 23 to 24, 2021.

For two days, the JEC Forum DACH program will offer the opportunity to exchange and learn about the current and future developments of Composites in the DACH region through a rich program of conferences, the JEC Composites Startup Booster, and the JEC-AVK Awards. JEC Forum DACH will include pre-arranged Business Meetings between sponsors and attendees as well as sponsors' workshops. Advance registration is required to attend this forum that expects to gather 500 participants.

Conferences, keynotes and market overview

JEC Forum DACH will feature cutting-edge live conferences with exclusive keynotes organized by the AVK.
The composites industry provides a significant impetus, e.g. in its process technologies for hybrid structures or integrated manufacturing and modern mobility or new materials in the booming construction sector. There's been an increasing number of marketable ideas for recycling and sustainability solutions. Furthermore, an exclusive report on current market developments in the European composites market will be delivered.

JEC Forum DACH will also feature a fulfilling conference program with experts from the industry giving insights on the latest developments in high-performance composite technologies and applications.

Each day of the forum will be broken down as-is:
•    Two keynote speeches led by one or two high profile experts
•    Conferences/technical presentations
•    Workshops and Business Meetings

Please find the program of the conference attached.

• New HYPER model produces extraordinary printing quality at unparalleled speed, approaching single-pass throughput

Electronics For Imaging, Inc. is launching its third new digital textile printer of 2021, delivering the world’s highest real production throughput for a scanning digital textile printer. The EFI™ Reggiani HYPER is a scanning printer available in 1.8-metre, 2.4-metre or 3.4-metre widths. With an up to eight-colour configuration, the EFI Reggiani HYPER prints at up to 13 linear metres per minute in two-pass production mode, making it the fastest textile scanning printer on the market. The new printer is suitable for high-quality production on knitted or woven fabrics and is designed with smart technology that enables it to be integrated into Industry 4.0 projects.

The new EFI Reggiani HYPER targets the industrial high-speed segment of the multi-pass textile printing sector. Not only is it the fastest multi-pass printer that EFI Reggiani has ever developed, but the fastest of its kind in the market, offering extraordinary printing quality with unmatched productivity.
 
The HYPER’s superfast carriage with 72 printheads can print two passes with production quality at speeds up to 13 metres per minute for a 1.5-metre-wide roll, or up to 10 metres per minute for a 3-metre-wide roll. On a 3.4-metre Reggiani HYPER printer, users can print a pair of 1.5-metre-wide rolls in parallel, delivering a total throughput of up to 20 metres per minute, which is comparable to some single-pass printers currently in the market.
 
The printer is powered by EFI Reggiani genuine inks, with high-quality formulas developed to ensure the best performance in terms of runnability and longer printhead life while producing astonishing colour depth and brightness, as well as excellent fastness properties.       

• Parade Example for physical Trade Shows

A whole year without physical trade fairs, long months without personal exchange: last week the physical International Textile Trade Show MUNICH FABRIC START and the International Denim Trade Show BLUEZONE took place for the textile industry in Munich. The team at Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH is bringing a bit of normality back to the industry, but also to event management. Thanks to detailed, Covid-19 compliant fair formats, the organisers show that trade fairs are possible and can be successfully implemented with the appropriate measures.

More than 600 international suppliers presented their new collections and developments for Autumn.Winter 22/23 in around 1000 collections in the Fabrics, Additionals, Design Studios, Sourcing, ReSource and Sustainable Innovations areas at MUNICH FABRIC START as well as denim, sportswear and KEYHOUSE at BLUEZONE.

A winning fusion of BLUEZONE & KEYHOUSE well-attended events

Under the motto "BACK TO THE FUTURE", BLUEZONE offered a way back to the tactile experience of textiles and the reunion of the denim community. In addition to international denim weavers and manufacturers, visitors to the Zenith Hall also saw a qualitative selection of KEYHOUSE exhibitors who presented their futuristic innovations for the fashion industry.

Positive visitor & exhibitor echo despite Covid-19 measures

In keeping with the season's title "RISE", the visitors were greeted by inspiring, colourful trend forums with unique highlights for Autumn.Winter 22/23 collection development. In the halls, the industry was able to discover a trade show with the well-known and proven pre-pandemic quality with manufacturers and suppliers presenting in all 8 areas. Non-European suppliers were represented by agencies and offered well-attended show in show concepts.

The newly formed ReSOURCE x SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Area also drew in the crowds. In a modern atmosphere, information was shared on sourcing sustainable textiles and additionals as well as innovative concepts. Another highlight was the launch of FABRIC.iD, the innovative process for the complete digitisation of fabrics to greater serve the industry's digital future.

The Turkish company ARIKAN Mensucat Industry and Trade Inc. was founded in 1993 and is located in Kahramanmaraş, one of the southernmost cities of the country. Today, the family-owned company employs around 1,500 people and finishes around 55 tons of knitwear every day. In addition to many well-known Turkish fashion manufacturers, ARIKAN also supplies international manufacturers in Europe, Russia, the Gulf States and other leading international markets.

The German machinery manufacturer BRÜCKNER supported the Turkish company from the very beginning. From the foundation of the dyeing and finishing plant, BRÜCKNER supplied three stenters for the finishing of the high-quality knitted fabric in 2014. Two more lines followed in 2016. For decades, BRÜCKNER has been the market leader for the finishing of knitted fabric. Especially for very fine and elastic fabric, special line configurations and technological know-how are necessary to be able to produce a high-quality end product. During the drying and heat-setting process, for example, extremely accurate and uniform temperature distribution over the entire length and width of the dryer is essential. In the BRÜCKNER stenter this is achieved, among other things, by the alternating arrangement of the thermal zones every 1.5 meters and by the proven split-flow air system.

The machine operators at ARIKAN appreciate the easy control of BRÜCKNER lines. The visualization is intuitively designed and offers many auxiliary systems for an optimized production process. In addition, significant energy savings can be achieved with just a few changes to the machine parameters.

The management at ARIKAN attaches great importance to energy saving, especially in the fabric finishing department. The drying process is one of the most energy-intensive in the entire process chain, therefore the biggest savings can be made here. These have a direct impact on the manufacturing costs of the textiles and thus on competitiveness in the market. In the meantime, talks are already in progress for another BRÜCKNER line which will include a very special feature: a combined heating system for the dryer. For many customers - and so also for ARIKAN in Turkey - e.g. steam energy is available free or very cheap. With the combined heating system developed by BRÜCKNER it is possible to use this steam energy for heating up the dryer and thus to achieve significant savings. If the available steam is not sufficient for a running process, it is automatically switched over to gas heating. This mode of operation does not only have an effect on the energy costs, but also makes a considerable contribution to environmental protection.

Im THE SKY im Dreischeibenhaus wurde Mode-Pionier und Nachhaltigkeitsvordenker Heiko Wunder am Sonntagabend, 25. Juli, mit dem Modebusiness Award ausgezeichnet. Die Landeshauptstadt ist für den gebürtigen Düsseldorfer nicht nur Lebensmittelpunkt, sondern auch Ideenschmiede und Keimzelle seines nationalen Erfolgskonzepts: seiner Modemarke "wunderwerk".

Mit Anfang 20 entstand bei Heiko Wunder der Wunsch, eine modische, ressourcenschonende und konsequent nachhaltige Modekollektion auf den Markt zu bringen: "wunderwerk". "Im Namen meiner Modemarke stecken zwei Worte: Werk kommt dabei von ehrlich verrichteter Arbeit, und das Wunder passt wegen meines Nachnamens sehr gut dazu", so der Preisträger.

Oberbürgermeister Dr. Stephan Keller: "Der Modebusiness Award geht in diesem Jahr an Heiko Wunder, der nicht nur die lokale Modeindustrie maßgeblich geprägt hat, sondern auch eine nationale Einflussgröße in der Mode und Vordenker im Verknüpfen von Produktion und Nachhaltigkeit ist. Ich freue mich sehr, dass Mode hier in Düsseldorf nach wie vor erlebt und gelebt wird und viele namhafte Akteure aus der Mode- und Handelsbranche zur Verleihung des Modebusiness Awards zusammengekommen sind, um der Auszeichnung einen würdigen Rahmen zu verleihen."

Die Verleihung des Modebusiness Awards fand erstmalig im Rahmen der Düsseldorf Fashion Days – Festival Edition statt, die vom 21. bis zum 28. Juli 2021 sowohl Order- und Fachveranstaltungen als auch Shoppingevents und Modenschauen im gesamten Stadtgebiet präsentierten. Die Idee: Die bekannten und seit Jahrzehnten etablierten Ordertage für Fachhändler auf Messen und in den rund 600 Showrooms, die seit dem Sommer letzten Jahres unter der Marke Düsseldorf Fashion Days stattfinden, wurden um Events für Endkonsumenten erweitert. Dadurch entstand ein Mode- und Lifestyle-Festival für die gesamte Stadt, welches mit dem Shopping Day am Samstag, den 24. Juli, einen Höhepunkt für die Privatkundinnen und -kunden fand. Der Modebusiness Award war hingegen für das Fachpublikum der deutschsprachigen Modewirtschaft ein gelungener Abschluss des Wochenendes.