From the Sector

Once again Tonello will be present their technologies and partnerships at Kingpins from October 18-19.

DyeMate, the ozone, THE Laser
DyeMate is Tonello's new "patent-pending" technology that reinterprets the traditional indigo garment dyeing process, by making it automatic and repeatable, efficient and sustainable: carried out in a nitrogen atmosphere, without oxygen, with controlled reduction and oxidation, to achieve results that are perfectly comparable, in terms of authenticity and "aesthetic flavor," to those of denim that fades and becomes vintage with the passage of time.

Tonello will present a collection of garments with super bleach effects. With OBleach, EGO and O-Zone triad redefined the garment bleaching process, including no harmful chemicals such as chlorine and permanganate, in favor of sustainable and healthy production.

The entire collection will be embellished and finished with aesthetic solutions and details: the natural overdyeing of Wake, the ultra-thin graphics made with THE Laser Lab, the reproducible breakages of THE Laser T and TM.

Collections, design, collaborations
The MSP - Most Sustainable Product - collection, developed together with Kingpins and Denim House, designed by Piero Turk and Serena Conti, and processed in Tonello's Research and Development Center with the latest responsible finishing technologies, returns this year.

Tonello will also present another project: ONE Denim. A collection that aims to combat resource waste in the denim industry by demonstrating concretely how many new denim garments could be made from a single fabric by optimizing processes and choosing appropriate technologies and production methods. The fabrics chosen are from Sharabati Denim, the design is by Piero Turk, and the collection is processed by Tonello.

SA-KE
This project was born out of a dialogue between Tonello's technology and the creativity of British designers Sadia Rafique and Kelly Harrington, who produced as many as 70 artworks that are partly physically present at Kingpins and partly published in a book-zine that tells the philosophy and logic of this unique and original work. A work that combines technology, expressive research and all new forms of image generation, across the boundary between natural and artificial, but still totally human.

Archroma and Shima Seiki have expanded their partnership to bring the industry’s largest library of colors for cotton and polyester to the SDS®-ONE APEX design, planning and virtual sampling system and APEXFiz® (hereafter SDS®-ONE APEX series) subscription software.

Now offering a total of 5,760 color references, SDS-ONE APEX series has added all 1,440 colors for polyester from The Color Atlas by Archroma® to its color library of 4,320 Color Atlas colors for cotton poplin. The new polyester collection ranges from neutral earth tones to vibrant jewel tones and on-trend fluorescent colors, with shades suitable for sportswear, fashion, home furnishings, automotive textiles and more.

The extended color library in SDS®-ONE APEX series will help designers and manufacturers to visualize and evaluate their design choices on realistic fabric simulations and then put them into production with dyes and finishes that meet their desired sustainability profile. The Shima Seiki system also offers a smooth transition to machine programming for quick and accurate production, reduced waste and accelerated time to market.

Each of the 5,760 Color Atlas color references in the SDS®-ONE APEX series design software is available as a physical color standard that includes precise dyeing recipes and compliance data, as well as access to expert technical support from Archroma around the world.

“Polyester remains the most popular choice across many textile segments where high performance is a must. Users of Shima Seiki’s advanced SDS®-ONE APEX series platform will now be able to select from the industry’s largest library of colors for both cotton and polyester and, more importantly, trust that their choice can be reliably executed,” Chris Hipps, Head of Strategic Business Development, Archroma Color Management, said.

“Our colors are formulated with dyes that comply with international eco-standards and work with Archroma’s groundbreaking coloration systems, like FAST SPORT,” he continued.

The innovative company RUDOLF has been honoured for its outstanding achievements in the field of sustainability and environmental protection and has won the coveted Responsible Care Federal Competition 2023 in the category SME.

The award was presented as part of a competition organised by the German Chemical Industry Association (VCI). Responsible Care is a voluntary initiative of the chemical industry. Its aim is continuous improvement in the areas of environmental protection, health and safety. Chemical companies and associations in more than 50 countries support the initiative. The award-winning project of the innovative company RUDOLF impressed the jury with its pioneering technology, which reduces CO2 emissions by up to 99.9 % compared to conventional cooling systems. „The project uses near-surface geothermal energy for industrial cooling - according to the motto „Efficiency First“ the most efficient way has been chosen!“ - Jury statement
 
TerraCool‘s winning system uses near-surface geothermal energy as the most natural form of cooling. It utilises the constant temperature of around 10°C at a depth of around 10 metres below ground. A specially developed heat exchanger system takes advantage of this natural cooling effect. In the future, it will be used to cool chemical production processes at RUDOLF. The main advantage of this technology is that it is CO₂ neutral. The technology is highly efficient and consumes only 0.1 % of the electricity used by conventional cooling systems.  By using natural resources, the system reduces CO₂ emissions by up to 99.9 % compared to conventional cooling systems, resulting in a very presentable carbon footprint. Another impressive aspect is its high energy efficiency. With just 1 kW of electrical energy, the system generates up to 600 kW of cooling capacity, thanks to the use of a highly energyefficient circulating pump system. Energy is, and will continue to be, a valuable „raw material“ for our industry and one that we need to manage carefully. The system is self-contained and has no contact with groundwater. No environmentally harmful refrigerants or antifreeze are required. With this technology, RUDOLF has made a pioneering contribution to the climate-neutral transformation of the economy, proving that innovative solutions can go hand in hand with environmental protection and sustainability. The Responsible Care award recognises the company‘s commitment to a greener future.

Dyneema^® announced the launch of a next-generation unidirectional (UD) material innovation based on its third-generation fiber at the polymer level: a development poised to enhance the safety and mobility of law enforcement officers and military forces through molecular engineering.

This evolution enables a higher-tenacity fiber – resulting in increased ballistic stopping power when used in the new UD material, Dyneema^® SB301, for protective armor applications. The seismic shift in performance enables body armor manufacturers to design soft armor vests 10–20% lighter than previous protective solutions.

Beyond strength, Dyneema^® SB301 has the advantage of being made from bio-based Dyneema^® fiber, which enables a carbon footprint up to 90% lower than generic high modulus polyethylene (HMPE) fiber.

Now available for use in law enforcement vests for the US market, Dyneema^® SB301 material is manufactured in Greenville, North Carolina, in compliance with the Berry Amendment, with additional markets to follow.

“In every situation, weight is now considered to be the top priority after ballistic stopping power,” said Marcelo van de Kamp, global business director for personal protection at Avient. “That’s because survivability is directly tied to weight savings when speed and agility determine outcomes. We’ve long been known as the ‘world’s strongest fiber™,’ but that won’t stop us from finding new opportunities to get stronger. This new product is the latest demonstration of our commitment to both innovation and protection.”

Carbios, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, inaugurated its textile preparation line at its demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand.

To streamline the textile preparation phase, which is currently carried out by hand or on several lines, Carbios has developed a fully integrated and automated line that transforms textile waste from used garments or cutting scraps into raw material suitable for depolymerization with its enzymatic biorecycling process.  

The patented line integrates all preparation stages (shredding and extraction of hard points such as buttons or fasteners), and provides Carbios with a high-performance, scalable development tool. The platform will help validate the biorecycling technology for textiles at demonstration plant scale (by 2024), and provides Carbios with expertise in working with collection and sorting operators to specify the quality of textiles and the preparation steps needed to make them suitable for enzymatic recycling.

Digital fashion outlet Otrium announces the launch of a dedicated garment refurbishment and repair programme for damaged returns following a successful pilot scheme. The initiative is being run in partnership with Bleckmann, experts in supply chain management for fashion and lifestyle brands. Working with Bleckmann’s team of circular fashion experts from The Renewal Workshop, Otrium is taking the next step in its strategic journey to help reduce the number of that might ultimately end up in landfills or destroyed.
 
Most of the returns that Otrium currently receives can be easily restored and put back on sale. However, in rare cases, returned items are damaged. “Preventing waste is an important part of Otrium’s DNA, and thanks to our partnership with Bleckmann and their Renewal Workshop team, we can now repair the majority of damaged returns and put them back into circulation,” said Kevin Carolan, Director of Logistics at Otrium. “We are happy that we can use our position in the fashion supply chain to create lasting change and accelerate towards our mission of reducing the volume of garments that go to landfill.”

Since 2020, Otrium is exploring refurbishment and repairs with their third-party logistics provider Bleckmann. In April 2023, both partners started a three-month pilot at Bleckmann’s facility in Almelo, the Netherlands, to expand the programme with a broader range of repairs and optimised processes through data use. During the pilot, the Renewal Workshop team at Bleckmann refurbished more than 1,000 returned garments, shoes and accessories for Otrium each month.

“With hundreds of high-end labels on the platform, we needed an efficient solution tailored to the needs of a wide range of products – from shoes and coats to bags,” explained Marlot Kiveron, Head of Sustainability at Otrium. “The Renewal Workshop team worked closely with us to develop a streamlined and scalable process that could grow in line with our ambitions, delivering like-new repairs at the speed of e-commerce. Their combination of purpose, professionalism, agility and expertise makes them the ideal partner for this kind of project.”
 
Bleckmann’s integrated data capabilities were also crucial to the success of the partnership. “Data collection and analysis can be vital in demonstrating the commercial viability of sustainability initiatives,” said Tamara Zwart, Director of Renewal at Bleckmann. “Using our advanced stock tracking systems, we determined that 70% of the renewed Otrium stock had been sold within seven weeks. We’re all delighted with the results!”
Furthermore, carbon-tracking software Vaayu calculated that on average, a refurbished return sold on Otrium avoids 2.760kg of carbon emissions and 69g of waste proofing that this programme can have a positive impact on both: the planet and the business.

Having established the business case, the team decided to expand the initiative beyond the pilot phase. “This project is a milestone in our sustainability journey,” concluded Marlot. “It’s a key part of our ongoing commitment to finding more ways to reduce our environmental impact while helping to ensure that more clothes get worn. By the end of 2023, we aim to repair at least 25,000 damaged garments. Together with Bleckmann and their renewal experts, we’re well on our way to proving that this circular business model can be a valuable part of our future growth.”

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK is celebrating a year of achievements since its new Fibre Development Centre was first opened. This period has shown a marked acceleration in the number of client technical trials conducted, involving the ever-increasing development of new polymers.

FET designs, develops and manufactures extrusion equipment for a range of high value textile material applications worldwide, offering melt spinning, wet spinning and spunbond/meltblown options. Since its inception in 1997, a major part of FET’s service portfolio has always been to collaborate with industrial and research establishments in testing, evaluating and developing high value materials with diverse, functional properties. FET’s previous Process Development Laboratory presided over the development of about 60 new polymer types in multifilament, monofilament and nonwoven formats.

Since the new Fibre Development Centre came on stream, this process has accelerated and the number of new polymers has now increased to over 70, with considerably enhanced facilities more than doubling capacity and increasing efficiency. Clients frequently spend several days on site participating in development trials and technical sales meetings, so the new Centre is designed to make their stay even more efficient and comfortable.

With more new trials booked for the rest of the year and well into 2024, it is expected that many more new polymers will be developed, with sustainable fibres leading the way.

The new Orthopac RXVMC-20 automatic straightening system for forward control of knitwear with strong distortions can remove distortions in textile webs even faster and more precisely.

"With the new straightening concept, special attention was paid to the straightening mechanics and their interaction with the analysis electronics of the scanner system," explains Head of Sales Thomas Höpfl. Two individually controlled and driven straightening modules with a total of four bow and three skew rollers ensure that the correction of bow and skew distortions takes place in small steps. The control concept is also new. A scanner group at the infeed of the straightening machine detects distortions even before they reach the correction rollers. This way, the rollers are brought directly into position and the fabric is corrected from the very first centimetre. A scanner group at the outlet also detects possible residual distortion, which is corrected at the second straightening module. This enables an even more precise and faster response when it comes to reacting to rapidly changing distortions.

The Orthopac RXVMC therefore shows its full strength when straightening knitwear and distortion-sensitive fabrics. Knitted fabrics are special in terms of distortion dynamics. It is difficult for operators when changing the fabric rolls to join the relatively short fabric webs with weft and loop-straight seams. Before and after unavoidable insufficient seams, the distortion (e.g. right before to left before) changes abruptly. Conventionally, the distortion change is only detected by scanning at the output of the straightener.
 
The RXVMC concept enables a shortened reaction time to jumping distortion, (especially in the case of seams) due to the improved scanning concept with scanning at the outlet and inlet. This reduces knitted fabric outside the straightening tolerance up to 50 percent after each seam. Fewer fabric pieces have to be reprocessed. It guarantees higher quality goods and thus less waste.

Founded in 2013, NOPINZ is a UK-based manufacturer of clothing for cyclists and triathletes. The company's first product was the ‘SpeedPocket’, a product that allows competitors to attach their race numbers more easily (and with ‘no pins’) while improving the all-important aerodynamics. Soon recognising the customer demand for premade attire with incorporated number pockets, the company embarked on a mission to manufacture these new product lines itself. Today, NOPINZ boasts a diverse portfolio, with 60% of its products made in-house, catering to a growing customer base across the UK and international markets. NOPINZ creates speed suits for some of the world’s top cycling teams, as well as competitive amateurs.

NOPINZ places a strong emphasis on sustainability and is committed to minimising its environmental impact. Using a microfactory approach gives better oversight and control of the manufacturing process, including sourcing materials sustainably and locally where possible, reducing transportation, and improving access to recycling. “Our ‘zero to landfill’ policy, means that we reduce our wastage where possible and either recycle or donate excess product to charity,” Blake adds. “We hope to become a B-Corp company in the future.”

“We tested out a few printers, before we ultimately settled on Mimaki,” Blake Pond, the founder of NOPINZ explained. Now the company’s line-up entirely consists of Mimaki’s textile dye sublimation solutions.
“During our search we prioritised the ability to produce fluorescence and accurately replicate colours. Customers often come to us with existing kit made by other manufacturers, which they want to match, so accurately replicating colour is extremely important. And even without existing kit, customers occasionally ask for specific pantone colours. When it comes to cycling kit, colour is often pivotal when considering where to buy from.”

As two flagship dye sublimation printers, both the TS300P-1800 and TS55-1800 are equipped to print on the various technical fabrics that are needed for cycling attire and faithfully reproduce colours to meet customer expectations.

Since 1967, ‘OETI - Institute for Ecology, Technology and Innovation’ has made a name for itself worldwide as an accredited and notified centre of excellence. With decades of experience as a service provider, the company specialises in the testing and certification of textiles, leather, personal protective equipment (PPE), floor coverings and interior furnishing materials. It also assesses indoor air quality. As a founding member of the international OEKO-TEX® association (1992) and official OEKO-TEX® testing institute, OETI also comprises the entire OEKO-TEX® product portfolio.

Between its own international branches and the branches of OETI’s Swiss parent company, TESTEX AG, OETI’s network of locations spans several continents. Recently, one more branch has been added in Pakistan (headquartered in Faisalabad).
OETI Pakistan is managed by Akhlaq Hussain, who has decades of experience in the textile and apparel industry for testing, inspection, certification, auditing, product safety, training and sustainability management.

Akhlaq Hussain’s main goal is to ‘create visibility for the OETI brand in Pakistan. We want to offer sustainable, reliable, and competitive services to Pakistan’s textile industry. My aim is to foster Pakistan’s exports by offering more sustainable certifications and training in environmental and social topics as well as due diligence in supply chains, which are in high demand in European countries.’

Markus Lang’s - OETI’s Global Head of Marketing & Sales – main goal is to ‘increase the awareness of sustainability within Pakistan’s textile and leather industry, which is also the main objective of our future development.’