From the Sector

• Customer Story
• Technology takes uniform making to the next level
• To meet new challenges in the professional garment market and preserve over a century of savoir-faire, Balsan chose Lectra to modernize its production tools.

The challenge

A Groupe Marck company, Balsan designs and manufactures corporate and ceremonial clothing, tailored and customized uniforms, and personal protective equipment and clothing for the public and private sector which comply with international standards. The biggest challenge is to meet the new expectations of customers who seek increasing levels of customization with ever-shorter time-to-market deadlines.
The professional garment sector is subject to the same pressures as prêt-à-porter, and Balsan’s challenge was to produce customized clothing more quickly using intelligent manufacturing methods.

Results

Balsan was a pilot partner for the Fashion On Demand by Lectra solution. This alliance allowed Groupe Marck to take a new approach, involving not only the use of Fashion On Demand by Lectra’s connected cutter, but upstream software solutions as well, which are configured based on the company’s needs to best match its work methods while updating and accelerating the production process. “Using a measurement chart, Fashion On Demand by Lectra allowed us to generate well-adapted and customized patterns with which to produce our garments. The solution also provides extensive flexibility: we can send the model to the cutter, select the cutting orders and  even group them by fabric, and detect defects and launch re-cuts when necessary. This improves overall performance and delivers estimated productivity gains of 7%”. Stéphane Quiniou, Industrial and Quality Director, Groupe Marck

Lectra's response

Balsan was a pilot partner for the Fashion On Demand by Lectra solution. This alliance allowed Groupe Marck to take a new approach, involving not only the use of Fashion On Demand by Lectra’s connected cutter, but upstream software solutions as well, which are configured based on the company’s needs to best match its work methods while updating and accelerating the production process.

• Performance assurance program for textiles with advanced moisture management technology

Huntsman Textile Effects has extended its HIGH IQ® performance assurance program to help mills, brands and retailers meet consumer demand for garments with durable moisture management. HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort performance program is built on the industry’s broadest and most advanced moisture management agents to deliver durable, long-lasting performance.
As consumers around the world adopt more active lifestyles and outdoor activities, the need for cool, dry and comfortable sports and athleisure wear is on an upward trend.
HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort performance program allows garments to breathe, while at the same time, transports moisture away from the body. This ensures consumers can stay cool, dry and fresh throughout. The unique technology supports accelerated evaporation, ensuring garments dry quickly for long-lasting comfort.

“Today’s consumer seeks comfort and performance in their active lifestyle. With Huntsman’s HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort performance assurance program, we offer durable moisture management so your garment remains breathable, stays cool and attains the comfort of cotton. Unique quick-dry properties created by the natural microclimate of the garment help to reduce post-exercise chill, making the effects highly suitable for sports and active wear,” said Lee Howarth, Global Marketing Manager, Huntsman Textile Effects.
Only mills that meet Huntsman’s stringent requirements earn the right to use the HIGH IQ® performance assurance hang tags as point-of-sale product branding. Updated hangtags and promotional materials are available to support mills and brands in communicating the benefits of the HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort performance assurance program.

The technology that drives the HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort program complies with the requirements of bluesign® for safe and sustainable textile production. Furthermore, fabrics produced with HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort moisture management are suitable for STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified textile products. The global leader in intelligent effects, Huntsman Textile Effects developed the HIGH IQ® global performance assurance program to help mills, brands and retailers produce high-performance textiles with built-in sun protection, freshness, friction protection and water repellence, in bright whites and color that lasts. The program is based on innovative dyes and effects and unparalleled technical support and application know-how from Huntsman Textile Effects to help mills improve their productivity and competitiveness.
 

„CONTENT, EXCHANGE AND INSPIRATION“

“We are on exactly the right track with our focal topics and concepts on the subject of Digitalisation, Sustainability and Retail Experiences. The feedback was overwhelmingly very positive. The concepts we have developed in recent months are spot on the contemporary pulse and there is considerable need for dialogue between all the parties. At PREMIUM we succeeded in breathing life into a new dynamic with the new brand mix in the halls and the focus on key looks. The stands looked truly amazing and a lot of time had clearly been spent working on the collections, too. The buyers loved the overall impact of this. They felt better appealed to, oriented – and entertained.
 
The PREMIUM GROUP stands for content, communication and inspiration. The feedback on the quality of the visitors to PREMIUM, SHOW&ORDER X PREMIUM and SEEK resonated overwhelmingly positively. Visitors are taking new trends and contacts home with them. There were buyers visiting from Stylebop, Macy’s or Caliroots. 

Swiss textile innovator HeiQ launches a new fluorine-free product in their HeiQ Eco Dry product family for a full range of durable water repellence technologies, from apparel to footwear options. As one of the pioneers in this field, HeiQ is the go-to solution provider for many apparel brands that seek fluorine-free sustainable water repellent solutions. Used by over 50 brands worldwide today, HeiQ Eco Dry is a family of innovative, eco-friendly and PFC-free water repellent textile technologies.

After adding HeiQ DuPont™ ECO-LED to the range last year, recently HeiQ has further developed another technology targeting footwear materials. This new solution, HeiQ Eco Dry FW, is Oeko-Tex® conform and bluesign® pending, enables very high hydrophobic properties, and is suitable for wool, polyamide and their blends. It does not compromise on breathability and is fluorine-free. For leather on footwear, HeiQ DuPont™ ECO-LED is recommended. With HeiQ Eco Dry, brands protect their products in a sustainable manner.

“Summer just started. And in many countries it also means the start of rainy season!”, says Hoi Kwan Lam, Chief Marketing Officer at HeiQ. “We work with over 150 brands all over the world on a daily basis and what we see is the unstoppable growth in their craving for innovative, sustainable and effective solutions.” continues Lam. “Our ecological solutions allow brands to send a positive message and maintain a sustainable image. Today, 58% of consumers that are willing to pay more make their purchase decisions based on a brand’s environmental commitment*. We are happy for such a trend and it also means business opportunities for all”.

Anita Tillmann on the new season, new topics and a new generation.

“We’re feeling a special vibe in Berlin at the moment. The new generation is cool, fresh, engaged. Despite the fact that we, in our 40s, 50s and up, wear the same sneakers and almost the same look as our children, it's a long time since we topped the cool list. We need the young crowd, these stars of tomorrow, their style, their ideas and their unconventional and open ways of thinking. Everyone should come to Berlin to meet them, listen to them, or at least watch them. If you only look to the past you won't create a good future.”

CRAFTING STORIES.
“Berlin feels reckless, flexible, sometimes wonderfully aimless, unconstrained and unpredictable, which gives my creativity a huge boost. I am fascinated by always meeting people from all over the world who have chosen to make Berlin their base so that they can be free and creative, because Berlin offers the space to do that – whether in a studio, or at WeWork or Berghain.”

CHANGING STORIES.
“Only 9 per cent of the 9.1 billion tonnes of waste plastic that accumulates around the world was recycled and 12 per cent was incinerated. We give talks daily on the theme of avoiding plastic and we are working with the City of Berlin on concepts for a plastic-free Fashion Week. Only together can we shake things up.”

TELLING STORIES.
“Emotionalisation begins at the trade show stand rather than in-store. If the sparks don't fly at the trade show it will be tricky to tell the brand story or implement the presentation of the brands across the sales areas. Firstly, the aim is to use key looks and storytelling to capture buyers’ attention and make statements. We are working together with the brands on showcasing differentiating factors and genuinely presenting something new. Secondly, we recommend bringing young sales staff along to Berlin as well, to internalise this dynamic as well as the brand stories; and to then make these stories come alive for end consumers across the sales areas.”

For SEEK’s 10thBirthday we want to give something to those who are usually overlooked. Together with One Warm Winter, we are wrapping up Goodie Bags for the homeless and taking them where they are actually needed – to the streets. That’s why we are asking brands to donate old collection pieces, samples, stock, etc.
 
“We are really happy to team up with One Warm Winter for our SEEK donation initiative. We want to counteract the omnipresent throwaway mentality. Every step counts. Homelessness is a growing issue, especially in Berlin – we hope to bring some warmth to the city streets.”
– SEEK Team
 
“With the GiveBag the fashion industry is setting an important example in terms of awareness and sustainability. Ultimately, these bags are filled with what is often left out by the economy: true charity.”
– Dominic Czaja, One Warm Winter
 
The huge One Warm Winter GiveBag will be filled on all three show days (15–17 January) in front of the SEEK location at Arena Berlin. Every donor will receive a donation receipt and stay informed about the next steps. The GiveBags will be handed out to people in need by the SEEK team and One Warm Winter at the next charity event.

Additional support will be provided by TOMS with a requested voluntary donation in exchange for a nice hot coffee. The end sum will be matched by TOMS and donated directly to One Warm Winter.
 
“Giving is at the heart of everything we do at TOMS, but it’s projects like this that are in our own backyard that hit home the most. Homelessness is one of the issues closest to our hearts, so we couldn’t be more honoured to work with SEEK and One Warm Winter this season to lend a hand to our friends in Berlin that need it most.”
– Lisa Hogg, TOMS EMEA Marketing Director
 
The reaction from the SEEK brands towards our initiative has been amazingly positive – almost all of them are actively and enthusiastically participating by donating garments that cannot be sold anymore.
 
“Palladium Boots is very excited about this call for action and being able to take part in supporting the cause. City terrain is what we are built on and we are glad to gift a little warmth and particularly the gesture of humanity together with SEEK and One Warm Winter.”
– Melanie Bruss, Marketing Manager, Palladium Boots D, AT & NL
 
“The entire CHIEMSEE family is amazed by this initiative! It’s a great feeling to pass on some warmth and distribute it more fairly. Thank you SEEK and One Warm Winter for the idea – the fashion industry definitely needs more of those!”
– The CHIEMSEE family

Virginia-based Launderer Recognized for Commitment to Sustainability and Conservation Practices
Handcraft Linen Services, the Richmond, VA-based independent medical launderer, has been certified Clean Green, reflecting the company’s dedication to operational efficiency and sustainability. Linen, uniform and facility services companies receive this distinction by adhering to TRSA-designated water and energy use thresholds and deploying best management practices (BMPs) consistent with the ASTM International environmental laundering standard.
 
Handcraft Linen Services’ customers can be assured their reusable healthcare textiles are washed, dried and finished with processes that maximize sustainability and reduce greenhouse emissions. Clean Green certified operations demonstrate significant commitment to conservation and green operations through these BMPs:
•             Recovering heat from drained hot water and heat dispersed from the process of warming water
•             Recapturing drained water from rinses for reuse
•             Using environmentally friendly detergents
•             Removing solids and liquids from wastewater
•             Solar energy and energy-efficient lighting
•             Recycling programs
•             Re-routing trucks to save vehicle fuel
•             Spill prevention plans
 
The Clean Green certification is valid for three years at a time. TRSA inspects laundry facilities seeking certification and approves documentation of their water and energy use and BMP deployment through production reports they submit to auditors during the inspections. TRSA’s certification management protocol includes auditor training by the association’s inspection program administrator.
Clean Green aligns with the ASTM International standard, Guide for Sustainable Laundry Practices, which recognizes key criteria for the certification as universal indicators of maximum sustainability in commercial laundry work. ASTM’s review of TRSA BMPs verified these as the most effective and practical techniques for a laundry to achieve green objectives.
TRSA members prompted development of the standard, which was vetted in the sustainability subcommittee of the ASTM Committee on Textiles. Top technical experts, scientists and environmental professionals from outside the linen, uniform and facility services industry reviewed the BMPs. ASTM is the global leader in developing and delivering voluntary consensus standards unparalleled in building consumer confidence in product and service quality.
 
“I applaud Handcraft Linen Services for their sustainability efforts and maintaining the highest standards in their production and delivery operations,” said Joseph Ricci, TRSA president and CEO. “Meeting all the criteria for certification is not easy, but the company is committed to industry-leading processes and technologies.”

Huntsman Corporation (NYSE: HUN) is pleased to announce that the Patent Re-examination Board of the State Intellectual Property Office, China (PRB) upheld Huntsman’s Chinese Patents Nos. ZL00106403.7 and ZL200480003051.4.  These patents were contested by Shaoxing Bangyi Chemical Co., Ltd. and Taixing Jinyun Dyestuff Co., Ltd. By its ruling, the PRB rejected the positions of the petitioners and confirmed that Huntsman’s patented technology, which is used in Huntsman’s NOVACRON® Super Black G and NOVACRON® Super Black R dyes, is Huntsman’s valuable innovation for producing deep black shades.

Huntsman sued Jiangsu Jinji Industrial Co., Ltd. and Taixing Jinyun Dyestuff Co., Ltd. for infringing the above mentioned Chinese Patents at the Beijing Intellectual Property Court by using Huntsman’s patented technology in six black dyestuff products. Huntsman is seeking substantial damages and an injunction against further infringement.  Huntsman is also seeking substantial damages and an injunction against further infringement in a separate lawsuit against Zhejiang Longsheng Group Co., Ltd., Zhejiang Keyong Chemical Co., Ltd., and Shanghai Colva Dyestuff Industry Co., Ltd. This matter is currently being heard before the High People's Court, Shanghai.  In earlier decisions, both the Shanghai Intermediate People’s Court and the Shanghai High People’s Court ruled that Shanghai Colva Dyestuff Industry Co., Ltd. had infringed Huntsman’s Chinese Patent No. ZL00106403.7 by manufacturing and selling Colvazol Super Black LC-G and Colvazol Super Black LC-R dyes.

Rohit Aggarwal, President of Huntsman Textile Effects said: “We are very pleased with the PRB’s decision which demonstrates the State Intellectual Property Office’s commitment to steadfastly uphold intellectual property rights in China which protect valuable and advanced technology. This encourages companies like Huntsman to continue to invest in research and development in our aim to bring cutting-edge innovation to the textile industry. Huntsman will vigorously pursue those who are infringing our intellectual property rights to stop the unlawful infringement and pursue full compensation for our losses”.