From the Sector

Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG announces its participation in the Febratex trade show from August 20 to 23, 2024. The event will take place in Blumenau, Brazil, a hub for textile and garment production.

The company will present its latest advancements in straightening technology and process control. The booth will be jointly hosted by Mahlo’s sales agency MBR Textile and Christian Matthias, the head of Mahlo’s application department. They will be available to provide in-depth knowledge and demonstrations of Mahlo's solutions.

Mahlo’s technology addresses the critical needs of textile manufacturers, ensuring high-quality production with minimized distortion and optimized processes. The company’s automatic straightening system guarantees thread-
straight fabric across various applications, thanks to its modular design that can be tailored to individual production environments. Additionally, Mahlo offers several process control systems designed to optimize stenter frame operations by measuring and controlling parameters such as dwell time, thread density, and residual moisture. These systems help manufacturers improve textile quality, save raw materials, and reduce energy costs.

In a position paper published, the companies organised in the VDMA Textile Machinery Association comment on the ambitious EU regulations and their national implementation for the sustainable and circular transformation of the textile and clothing industry.

The production of textiles requires a large number of resources, such as water, energy and chemicals. “The members of VDMA Textile Machinery support customers with products worldwide to utilise great potential already at the textile production stage to thereby reduce CO2 emissions“, explained Verena Thies, Deputy Chairwoman of VDMA Textile Machinery.

The position statement emphasises the importance of efficient processes, circular economy and binding rules for all market participants. Besides, the position paper summarises the status of textile-to-textile recycling processes as well as the framework conditions for reprocessing of recyclates. The companies of VDMA Textile Machinery develop processes and technologies for recycling and provide the technical prerequisites for the efficient reuse and recycling of textile raw materials, whether natural or man-made fibres.
The Executive Board of VDMA Textile Machinery stresses additionally, that the new EU regulations for circular economy and their national implementation must be designed with realistic targets, measurable effects and as little bureaucracy as possible. Furthermore, market surveillance is needed to ensure a level playing field for all market participants.

On behalf of the industry, the VDMA Textile Machinery Association calls for creating better location conditions in Germany and EU as a favourable environment for innovation und competitiveness for textile machinery manufacturing to significantly advance the sustainability of the textile industry: The Textile Machinery Association strongly emphasises the need for a wide range of low-cost green energy, which is essential for the implementation and sustainable use of recycling solutions in the manufacturing industry. The association also sees the positive shaping of location conditions (the potential for skilled labour, a reduction in bureaucracy, shorter approval periods, investment security and predictability as well as a reduction in the tax burden) as a decisive factor for supporting sustainable business in the highly competitive textile and clothing industry.

Flos and B&B Italia, furniture brands of Made in Italy design, take part in the Casa Italia Paris 2024 project, the hospitality house that will host the athletes and guests during the XXXIII Olympic Games, to be held in the French capital from 26 July to 11 August 2024.

Along with other design brands and contemporary Italian artists, the two companies participate for the first time at Casa Italia Paris 2024 showcasing their most iconic creations, both classic and contemporary, in the venue’s indoor and outdoor spaces, taking guests on a spectacular and evocative journey that epitomizes Italian elegance and beauty.

As Official Partner of Casa Italia Paris 2024, B&B Italia is furnishing the living, lounge and outdoor areas with some of its most recognisable products that combine unique design, quality, comfort and function as well as sustainability, an increasingly crucial element intrinsic to furniture designed to last over time. The UP Series by Gaetano Pesce, the Camaleonda sofa and Le Bambole seating by Mario Bellini, the Planck tables by Piero Lissoni, and the Allure O’ table and Flair O’ chairs by Monica Armani will furnish Casa Italia, highlighting a dialogue with the context through the choice of distinctive shapes, colours and materials.

The ongoing dialogue created by the brand’s products continues through to the outdoor lounge areas, where Casa Italia’s green spaces are dotted with products from the B&B Italia Outdoor collection, the brand’s outdoor furniture line launched in 2007. The Ribes sofas by Antonio Citterio, the Crinoline chairs by Patricia Urquiola and the Borea tables by Piero Lissoni will welcome athletes and guests creating stylish aesthetic synergies with the Le Pré Catelan gardens.

Flos has worked at the lighting project for Casa Italia Paris 2024 as Official Supplier, with the aim of making light a precious element for highlighting the works of art and the objects that enrich the setup of the Italian hospitality house, so that the exhibition and its narrative itinerary can be enjoyed both during daytime and nighttime hours. Light is used to shape the space in such a way as to create visual hierarchies among the superb items on display, without forgetting the ambient lighting needed for the celebratory events that will take place in the venue. The Flos lighting display includes some of the brand’s most recognisable suspension creations, such as cocoon models Taraxacum and Viscontea by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni and Zeppelin by Marcel Wanders. These interact with more recent and timeless collections, such as Glo-Ball by Jasper Morrison, Arrangements by Michael Anastassiades, IC and Captain Flint floor lamps, also by Anastassiades, and Bellhop Floor by Barber Osgerby.

For the exterior green spaces, Flos has chosen stylish outdoor floor lamps that create a harmonious dialogue with the surrounding architecture. These include Captain Flint Outdoor and IC Outdoor, designed by Michael Anastassiades, featuring bases in precious materials such as Tuscan imperial travertine and volcanic stone from the slopes of Mount Etna. Finally, Flos Architectural, the brand’s professional lighting division for large-scale projects, has equipped Casa Italia with innovative tech solutions that include The Tracking Magnet, an ingenious patented system with magnetic fastening LED lights in spot or linear versions for functional, efficient lighting that is also comfortable and non-invasive.

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel (Freudenberg Apparel) announced the production opening of its state thermal insulation factory located in Long Thanh District, Vietnam. This facility specializes in the production of comfortemp®, Freudenberg’s renowned high-performance thermal insulation material, designed to elevate fashion and sportswear apparel.

This additional new factory extends Freudenberg Apparel's thermal insulation production across key Asian markets, including the Chinese mainland and South Korea. It also significantly strengthens Freudenberg Apparel’s global production capabilities and supply network. This expansion will bolster the company's competitive edge in Asia and reaffirms its ongoing dedication to innovation and evolution within the apparel industry.

"By localizing the production of our thermal insulation materials in Vietnam, we are not only reducing lead times for our customers but also streamlining the supply chain, ensuring we continue to deliver exceptional value for customers," stated John McNabb, Chief Technology Officer at Freudenberg Performance Materials. The Vietnamese facility is equipped to produce sustainable thermal insulations, providing customers with options that align with their sustainable garment production initiatives and goals.

The Paris 2024 Summer Olympic Games are just around the corner and a global sports frenzy is underway. However, intense summer workouts often lead to sportswear absorbing excessive sweat, becoming clingy and cumbersome, causing discomfort and potentially impacting performance. A research team from the School of Fashion and Textiles at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University (PolyU) has developed the iActive™ sportswear range which features a root-like liquid transport system and a skin-like active perspiration dissipater and utilises nature-inspired, anti-heat textile fabrics to expedite sweat removal, effectively reducing the weight and stickiness of activewear caused by sweat accumulation during exercise.

The human body has millions of sweat glands that are vital for regulating body temperature by dissipating sweat for evaporation to cool the skin’s surface. With unabating greenhouse gas emissions, the number of very hot days annually is expected to increase significantly. This will lead to elevated energy consumption and increased sweating during physical activity and outdoor labour. Even when wearing highly breathable clothes with good sweat-wicking properties, individuals may still experience discomfort due to excessive sweat accumulation.

A research team led by Dr SHOU Dahua, Limin Endowed Young Scholar in Advanced Textiles Technologies and Associate Professor of the School of Fashion and Textiles at PolyU, has invented the iActive™, intelligent, electrically activated sportswear with a nature-inspired active perspiration function.

Its nature-inspired technologies, including low-voltage-driven artificial “sweat glands” created by skin-like anti-heat textile fabrics and a root-like branching liquid transport system that aligns with the body’s sweat map, can actively and programmably remove sweat to a perspiration dissipater at the lower region of the sportswear. The all-textile sweat dissipater is compact and operates at a safe output voltage of approximately 5-9V, and its battery is easy to detach from the clothing, making it convenient for users to repeatedly wash the clothing by hand or in a washing machine to maintain hygiene. When the human body’s sweat rate is low, iActive™ can still be used independently without the battery.

Based on the optimised wettability pattern and gradient, the research team utilises a skin-like textile fabric to transport sweat one-way quickly and dissipate it from the inside to the outside. This feature reduces the stickiness and weight of clothing, improves breathability and ensures the garments remain dry and comfortable to wear. Experimental findings indicate that iActive™ creates a breathable and dry skin microclimate by dissipating sweat at a rate that is three times faster than the maximum human sweating rate. This innovation can also prevent discomfort from coldness and moisture after a workout. In comparison to traditional fabrics, the textile materials in iActive™ are 60% lighter and 50% less clingy when soaked, providing the wearer with all-round comfort and enabling sports enthusiasts and athletes to perform at their best.

Furthermore, a mobile app further aids personalised sweat management by wirelessly adjusting the sweat level of iActive™. This innovation is versatile and can be seamlessly integrated into a variety of textile materials to facilitate sustainable mass production. Beyond sportswear, iActive™ is also well-suited to protective clothing and workwear for individuals engaged in prolonged, high-intensity physical labour and outdoor occupations, including healthcare professionals, construction workers, firefighters, law enforcement officers and others, thereby significantly enhancing their work performance.

Dr Shou Dahua stated, “The extreme weather and high temperatures resulting from global warming have elevated the importance of heatstroke prevention and cooling measures on a global scale. Drawing on the vivid phenomena of thermal insulation and directed liquid flow in nature, we aim to foster innovation and sustainable advancement in garment manufacturing by inventing intelligent clothing and materials to address global challenges. We seek to harness the power of technology to infuse fresh perspectives into the traditional clothing industry, thereby enhancing its competitiveness.”

His research team has also developed a premium fabric named Omni-Cool-Dry™, drawing inspiration from volcano dwelling beetles. This fabric not only provides ultra-fast sweat dissipation and ensures all-day comfort with its dry and breathable features under dynamic thermal conditions, but also reflects solar radiation and emits body heat into the cold universe, enabling passive cooling. The team is working hard to leverage the benefits of both inventions to further enhance the sweat-dissipating and cooling capability of iActive™ sportswear.

Dr Shou Dahua, a core member of the PolyU Research Institute for Intelligent Wearable Systems and the Research Centre of Textiles for Future Fashion, has recently been bestowed with the 2023 Distinguished Achievement Award by The Fiber Society for his outstanding contributions to the fields of personal thermal and moisture management, intelligent wearables and soft robotics. The accolade is presented annually to an individual researcher worldwide. He has also received international innovation awards, including consecutive TechConnect Global Innovation Awards in 2021 and 2022. Moreover, his research papers have been published in various internationally renowned academic journals including Science Advances, PNAS, Advanced Functional Materials, and Advanced Energy Materials. Dr Shou will be chairing The Fiber Society Spring 2025 Conference at PolyU.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, and The Nonwovens Institute (NWI), announced a collaboration agreement to provide continuing education to the nonwovens industry. This agreement expands upon the ongoing partnership between INDA and NWI, whereby the two organizations have successfully presented training programs, covering the full spectrum of the nonwovens value chain from raw materials to processes to products.

Under terms of the agreement, INDA and NWI will develop and present a full roster of training courses, featuring a combination of classroom learning supported by hands-on activities in NWI’s world-class nonwoven production and testing labs on the Centennial Campus of North Carolina State University. The two organizations will also work together to explore additional educational programming to serve the needs of the nonwovens industry as they evolve over time.

The current roster of INDA/NWI training courses include:

• Elementary Nonwovens
• Intermediate Nonwovens
• Fiber and Filament Extrusion Fundamentals
• Meltblown Technology
• Nonwoven Bonding Fundamentals
• Nonwoven Fabric Property Development and Characterization
• Nonwoven Product Development and Innovation
• Spunbond Technology

Course registration is open to INDA/NWI members and non-members. The INDA/NWI Short Course Value Pack program enables companies to purchase a block of registrations, which can be used by any combination of employees to register for any combination of training courses, at a discounted rate. Value Packs are available in bundles of 5, 10, 15, and 20 registrations, with discounts ranging from 10 percent to 25 percent, depending on the size of the Value Pack.

Today more than ever, sustainability in the fashion sector is an imperative that is reshaping the dynamics of the sector. These are important changes driven both by increasing CSR regulations (for example, Business of Fashion revealed that, according to 87% of players, the new regulations will impact their company in 2024), and by consumers’ habits (increasingly sensitive to the topic and consequently more careful in purchasing choices). In this scenario, Lectra analyzed real-time data from Retviews – its artificial intelligence-based solution specialized in competitive intelligence and automatic benchmarking – and unveils how Retviews’ empowers brands to navigate the complexities of sustainable and optimized collection planning.

According to Retviews data, to face sustainability challenges and best orient in the current complex fashion landscape, it will be crucial for brands to keep 5 key indications in mind:

1. Planning sustainable collections
Faced with the new regulations, brands are called to rethink their strategies, without losing sight on performance. For this reason, brands are already moving to optimize and rationalize the creative processes of their collections with a view to sustainability. In particular, Retviews' real-time data analysis reveals a growing trend towards sustainability in the collections of leading brands, where there are important investments in sustainable fabrics for both upper and lower garments. In particular, in the "Top" section, shirts show the most significant growth year over year among the eco-responsible options.

2. Sustainable prices (in every sense)
In this context, the redefinition of prices requires a strategic balance between market dynamics and the consumer's willingness to pay for products redesigned in terms of CSR. Retviews data shows a significant increase in costs in sustainable top collections. However, has this shift affected stock levels?

3. Inventories: optimized management
Tracking stock levels is crucial to season management, as it helps identify best-selling items and trends, as well as identify which items would sell better at full price versus those that should be discounted.
The new premium prices for sustainable collections require optimization of the sales rate, a waste limitation to minimum and a reduction of unsold goods rate.
Analyzing the tops category - In the tops category, where sustainably made products prevail with significantly higher price points than generic tops, Retviews' real-time data reveals that sustainable collections boast a higher sell-out rate compared to non-sustainable products. This superior sell-out rate underscores consumers' willingness to pay a premium for sustainability

4. Traceability and certification of collections
Certification is essential in verifying sustainability claims, fosters trust and ensures compliance. Not only that, it is also important to understand the value of the certifications and which ones appear most frequently in the various markets so as to make targeted decisions and adapt the assortments accordingly. This also let brands to prioritize the right mix of fabrics that can reflect the desires of local consumers. Retviews data highlights a particular focus on “Recycled Claim Standard” (RCS) certification in Europe and on “Fair Trade” and “Good Cashmere Standard” certified garments in the United States.

5. Mix of sustainable fabrics
About environmental impact, fabrics also play a fundamental role. Through data-driven tools, brands are able to find valuable information on sustainable materials that are gaining tractions in collections and thus make informed and strategic decisions in the process of planning their creations.

The Circular Valley Convention is a new trade fair format organised by Messe Düsseldorf in cooperation with the non-profit Circular Valley Foundation and with scientific support from the renowned Fraunhofer Institute for Environmental, Safety, and Energy Technology called UMSICHT.

The convention looks at the circular economy from a holistic perspective: across industries and materials – and all phases of the circular economy, from smart circular design to the reuse and further utilisation of products.

As a central global platform for the circular economy, it brings together decision-makers and experts from business, academia, politics, and society in one place. Under the motto "Uniting Industries for a Circular Tomorrow", it promotes their networking in order to present and jointly develop circular solutions and processes and drive forward the transformation towards a circular economy.

Messe Düsseldorf is contributing its many years of expertise to the Circular Valley Convention stemming from a wide range of trade fairs such as K, interpack and drupa, which are closely related to the circular economy. The non-profit Circular Valley Foundation, the cooperation partner of the convention, has a comprehensive understanding of the circular economy and a large network. The scientific support provided by the Fraunhofer Institute for Environmental, Safety, and Energy Technology UMSICHT and the associated expertise round off the extensive professional support.

The Circular Valley Convention covers all phases of the circular economy: from the use of renewable raw materials to product design, manufacturing, logistics, and operations all the way through to collection, sorting, and recycling, featuring solutions for different material classes and value chains. The convention combines applied research and practice and is a content hub for top decision-makers and experts. With the guiding theme "Enabling Circular Economy", the focus is on three central topics that enable the transformation towards a circular economy:

• Enabling Value Chains: the implementation of efficient, sustainable, and cross-industry circular solution strategies to maximise the use of resources and make business models fit for the future.
• Enabling Technologies: the transfer of circular competencies such as redesign, refurbish, remanufacture & recycle. The goal is to optimise products and processes using technologies that comply with the principles of the circular economy.
• Enabling Materials: the promotion of the efficient use and recycling of various materials, aiming for the extension of product lifespans and the integration of cross-material circular strategies for the sustainable use of resources.

the Circular Valley Convention offers a three-part event format consisting of a conference, an expo, and a networking event on the evening of 12 March 2024. Over 100 high-calibre speakers are scheduled to attend the conference. More than 130 exhibitors and partners are expected to attend the expo, the marketplace for future-oriented circular solutions, which offers insights into new trends, innovations, and best practice examples.

TradeBeyond, a provider of supply chain solutions, has announced its latest AI-powered innovation, its PO Line Risk Rating. This toolset revolutionizes quality management and risk assessment by leveraging artificial intelligence to analyze thousands of historical data points, providing businesses with accuracy and efficiency in managing their supply chain’s quality risks.

Part of TradeBeyond’s Pivot88 platform, its PO Line Risk Rating functionality uses advanced machine learning algorithms to continuously improve risk assessments for quality failures. By employing predictive analytics to evaluate multiple risk factors such as product type, materials used, country of origin and many others, the system assigns a percentage risk score to each purchase order line, indicating the likelihood of quality issues or delays. This allows businesses to proactively identify and address high-risk PO lines.

This functionality provides critical insights and reporting on the most significant risk factors affecting each PO line. Risk ratings are displayed as part of users’ existing workflows, enabling better planning and prioritization of inspections and audits. Customizable risk thresholds allow quality managers to set their own parameters for risk levels, ensuring that resources are allocated effectively and strategically.

Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei presents its Velutine™ Evo brand, a finishing refinement technology developed by the Japanese laboratories of Asahi Kasei for Bemberg™. It offers a new way to generate fibrillation, featuring fabrics with a more “quiet-relaxed” appearance combined with a delicate and sensitive touch. VelutineTM Evo also brings environmental, global warming (CO2 emission) and water profiles for the benefit of BembergTM partners in the manufacture.

The roll out of the evolved VelutineTM Evo technology will start its journey and activation with Infinity, a BembergTM partner and textile manufacturer located in Rovereto, in the Trentino Alto Adige area of Italy. Research and experimentation with new materials and finishings are part of Infinity’s daily work and results are guaranteed through attention to traceability, the use of certifications, and quality control throughout the process. Each material is closely selected from a sustainability standpoint, while the chemical impact of treating textiles is something that they also take extremely seriously. Infinity guarantees the traceability of every product that they make. Every step of the working process can be traced, thanks to a network of trusted suppliers who share their ethos and values.

Asahi Kasei is also releasing the LCA study report - Life Cycle Assessment. The study evaluated and quantified the environmental impact indicators associated with the technological processes involved in the production of BembergTM dyed fabric through the application of the traditional technology of fibrillation. LCA report study made by Centro Tessile Serico Sostenibile confirms all the projected data savings:

• Global Warming Potential: 30% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions
• Water consumption for ennobling process: 40% reduction