From the Sector

In a position paper published, the companies organised in the VDMA Textile Machinery Association comment on the ambitious EU regulations and their national implementation for the sustainable and circular transformation of the textile and clothing industry.

The production of textiles requires a large number of resources, such as water, energy and chemicals. “The members of VDMA Textile Machinery support customers with products worldwide to utilise great potential already at the textile production stage to thereby reduce CO2 emissions“, explained Verena Thies, Deputy Chairwoman of VDMA Textile Machinery.

The position statement emphasises the importance of efficient processes, circular economy and binding rules for all market participants. Besides, the position paper summarises the status of textile-to-textile recycling processes as well as the framework conditions for reprocessing of recyclates. The companies of VDMA Textile Machinery develop processes and technologies for recycling and provide the technical prerequisites for the efficient reuse and recycling of textile raw materials, whether natural or man-made fibres.
The Executive Board of VDMA Textile Machinery stresses additionally, that the new EU regulations for circular economy and their national implementation must be designed with realistic targets, measurable effects and as little bureaucracy as possible. Furthermore, market surveillance is needed to ensure a level playing field for all market participants.

On behalf of the industry, the VDMA Textile Machinery Association calls for creating better location conditions in Germany and EU as a favourable environment for innovation und competitiveness for textile machinery manufacturing to significantly advance the sustainability of the textile industry: The Textile Machinery Association strongly emphasises the need for a wide range of low-cost green energy, which is essential for the implementation and sustainable use of recycling solutions in the manufacturing industry. The association also sees the positive shaping of location conditions (the potential for skilled labour, a reduction in bureaucracy, shorter approval periods, investment security and predictability as well as a reduction in the tax burden) as a decisive factor for supporting sustainable business in the highly competitive textile and clothing industry.

Autoneum significantly increased its revenue consolidated in Swiss francs by CHF 109.8 million to CHF 1 212.3 million compared to the prior-year period, supported by inorganic growth. In a slightly declining market, the Company succeeded in increasing its EBIT margin excluding special effects by 1.3 percentage points to 5.4%. A solid net result of CHF 36.1 million was generated in the first half-year of 2024. Due to the positive margin development, the Company now expects an EBIT margin of 5.0% to 5.5% for the current financial year (previously 4.5% to 5.5%).

In the first half of 2024, automotive industry production volumes were somewhat restrained world-wide and even declined slightly in Europe. While economic conditions in the automotive supply industry have improved to a certain extent since the coronavirus crisis, high vehicle prices in some markets were putting a damper on demand. Only North America and Asia recorded slight growth compared to the same period of the previous year.

Despite the flat market development, Autoneum managed to significantly increase both revenue and profitability before special effects over the prior-year period. This positive development was achieved through the automotive business of traditional German company Borgers, which had been acquired as of April 1, 2023, and thus contributed for the first time to the entire reporting period. At the same time, Autoneum achieved operational improvements worldwide.

Outlook
The current S&P market forecasts assume that global automobile production will decline by 2.0%* in 2024 compared with 2023. Based on the forecast market development and further operational improvements, Autoneum continues to expect total revenue in 2024 of CHF 2.3 billion to 2.5 billion and free cash flow in the high upper double-digit million range. Due to the positive margin develop-ment, the company now expects an EBIT margin of 5.0% to 5.5% (previously 4.5% to 5.5%).

* Source: S&P Global Light Vehicle Production Forecast of July 17, 2024.

Flos and B&B Italia, furniture brands of Made in Italy design, take part in the Casa Italia Paris 2024 project, the hospitality house that will host the athletes and guests during the XXXIII Olympic Games, to be held in the French capital from 26 July to 11 August 2024.

Along with other design brands and contemporary Italian artists, the two companies participate for the first time at Casa Italia Paris 2024 showcasing their most iconic creations, both classic and contemporary, in the venue’s indoor and outdoor spaces, taking guests on a spectacular and evocative journey that epitomizes Italian elegance and beauty.

As Official Partner of Casa Italia Paris 2024, B&B Italia is furnishing the living, lounge and outdoor areas with some of its most recognisable products that combine unique design, quality, comfort and function as well as sustainability, an increasingly crucial element intrinsic to furniture designed to last over time. The UP Series by Gaetano Pesce, the Camaleonda sofa and Le Bambole seating by Mario Bellini, the Planck tables by Piero Lissoni, and the Allure O’ table and Flair O’ chairs by Monica Armani will furnish Casa Italia, highlighting a dialogue with the context through the choice of distinctive shapes, colours and materials.

The ongoing dialogue created by the brand’s products continues through to the outdoor lounge areas, where Casa Italia’s green spaces are dotted with products from the B&B Italia Outdoor collection, the brand’s outdoor furniture line launched in 2007. The Ribes sofas by Antonio Citterio, the Crinoline chairs by Patricia Urquiola and the Borea tables by Piero Lissoni will welcome athletes and guests creating stylish aesthetic synergies with the Le Pré Catelan gardens.

Flos has worked at the lighting project for Casa Italia Paris 2024 as Official Supplier, with the aim of making light a precious element for highlighting the works of art and the objects that enrich the setup of the Italian hospitality house, so that the exhibition and its narrative itinerary can be enjoyed both during daytime and nighttime hours. Light is used to shape the space in such a way as to create visual hierarchies among the superb items on display, without forgetting the ambient lighting needed for the celebratory events that will take place in the venue. The Flos lighting display includes some of the brand’s most recognisable suspension creations, such as cocoon models Taraxacum and Viscontea by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni and Zeppelin by Marcel Wanders. These interact with more recent and timeless collections, such as Glo-Ball by Jasper Morrison, Arrangements by Michael Anastassiades, IC and Captain Flint floor lamps, also by Anastassiades, and Bellhop Floor by Barber Osgerby.

For the exterior green spaces, Flos has chosen stylish outdoor floor lamps that create a harmonious dialogue with the surrounding architecture. These include Captain Flint Outdoor and IC Outdoor, designed by Michael Anastassiades, featuring bases in precious materials such as Tuscan imperial travertine and volcanic stone from the slopes of Mount Etna. Finally, Flos Architectural, the brand’s professional lighting division for large-scale projects, has equipped Casa Italia with innovative tech solutions that include The Tracking Magnet, an ingenious patented system with magnetic fastening LED lights in spot or linear versions for functional, efficient lighting that is also comfortable and non-invasive.

The German Pavilion is confirmed to return from 19 – 21 September at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre. For the first time since borders reopened, industry leaders gathering under the banner will bolster the fair’s innovation and sustainability with a comprehensive showcase, from raw materials to machinery, complemented by diversified fringe events across the fairground.

Located in a prime area of the International Hall, the German Pavilion is set to draw crowds with its reputable products and technology. Assembling under the pavilion this year will be some new and returning German exhibitors, having made their names in the sub-categories of automotive nonwovens, industrial-use monofilaments, weaving machinery, and many more. After confirming their participation, Hansa Industrie-Mixer, J.H. Ziegler Nonwovens and New Materials, Lindauer Dornier, Monosuisse, and Perlon will showcase their expertise together with other highlighted exhibitors, including:

• Autefa Solutions – A full-service provider for turnkey nonwoven lines and machines, the company offers machines for fibre opening and blending, carding, crosslapping, needle punching, spunlace, thermobonding, amongst others. At the fair, the company will showcase technology spanning 10 application areas.
• Emtec Electronic – The company develops specialised test devices for the nonwoven and textile industries. An innovation said to quantify handfeel, its TSA Tactile Sensation Analyzer objectively measures the softness, smoothness and stiffness of textiles and nonwovens, as well as their recovery and elongation.
• Neuenhauser Group – The Neuenhauser Textile division provides fully-automated cleaning systems, transport automation solutions, winding technology, high-performance can coilers and weaving machine accessories. With decades of experience, the Group will debut at the fair with various innovative Agrotech, Buildtech, and Geotech solutions.
• Reifenhauser Enka Tecnica – A specialised provider of spinnerets and precision components to the man-made fibre industry. The company manufactures a broad spectrum of spinnerets and spin packs for all spinning processes, as well as premium jet strips for hydro-entangling with extra-long service life.
• Reifenhauser Reicofil – A well-known provider of spunbond, meltblown and composite lines for nonwoven applications in the hygiene, medical, filtration and industrial sectors. Offering a wide range of machinery at the show, the company is developing technical solutions for sophisticated and sustainable applications, with a strong focus on machine intelligence and energy efficiency.

New fringe events to further advocate innovation and sustainability
At this year’s fair, AiDLab^[1] will present its AI-based Textile Inspection System (AiTIS). A world first, AiTIS automatically and accurately detects material defects in nonwovens (especially for mask making), and various textiles, reflecting the collaborative efforts of AiDLab and a Hong Kong healthcare brand. At the event, Professor Calvin Wong, CEO & Centre Director of AiDLab, will introduce the system. This will be followed by a panel discussion and Q&A session with independent consultant Mr Eric Sham and moderated by AiDLab’s Mr Barry Tai, including insights on how advanced technology is reshaping the textile industry landscape.

Going beyond innovation, the fringe programme will also for the first time include Econogy Talks^[2] and sustainability tours to reflect Messe Frankfurt’s commitment to a sustainable future. Fairgoers can also visit the Innovation Showcase Area for outstanding industry achievements, with the focus this year on cutting-edge technology, green development and high-end applications. Product submission is now open. Contact us to submit your products, or register here for your visitor badge.

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

Cinte Techtextil China will be held from 19 – 21 September 2024.

^[1] The Laboratory for Artificial Intelligence in Design, jointly established by The Hong Kong Polytechnic University and the UK’s Royal College of Art, under HKSAR government funding
^[2] ‘Texpertise Econogy’ – the umbrella for Messe Frankfurt’s sustainability activities at its more than 50 textile trade shows worldwide

RadiciGroup and Atalanta Bergamasca Calcio announce the renewal of their partnership for the 2024/25 season. RadiciGroup will be the "Sponsor del Cuore" (Heart Sponsor) for the Italian Serie A league and the Supercoppa Italia, which will take place in January 2025 in Riyadh, while it will be the "Sleeve Partner" in the UEFA Champions League and Coppa Italia matches.

RadiciGroup therefore remains the "Sponsor del Cuore" of the Atalanta team, renewing the partnership started in 2017. Over these years, during which the Nerazzurri have achieved success, RadiciGroup has always supported the management, coach, players, and staff of Atalanta. This relationship is based on shared values such as attention to the territory, passion for the black and blue colours, and the ability to showcase an incredible game that highlights each player's talent within a winning team. Atalanta concluded the 2023/24 season triumphantly, winning the Europa League and giving Bergamo fans a trophy.

Everyday clothing may soon be able to capture and record body movements, according to new research published by the Universities of Bath and Bristol.

Harmless low voltages are passed through conductive threads which are stitched into garment seams to create electrical circuits. Their resistance changes with the movement of the wearer's body.
This work opens up new possibilities to make digital clothing which senses and captures movements much more accurately than is possible using current phones and smart watches.

The paper describing the new clothing concept, presented this week at the Designing Interactive Systems (DIS) conference in Copenhagen, lays the foundations for e-textile designers and clothing manufacturers to create cutting-edge garments that could enhance exercise, physiotherapy and rehabilitation.

Paper co-author Dr Adwait Sharma from the Department of Computer Science at the University of Bath said: "Our research focuses on integrating technology into everyday clothing to track the effectiveness of physiotherapy exercises done at home. Doing these exercises correctly to recover from injuries is crucial, but it's difficult to know if you're doing them properly alone.
“SeamSleeve helps address this challenge by enabling physiotherapists to monitor your progress remotely. This technology could be particularly beneficial for conditions like Multiple Sclerosis, where monitoring movement is essential.”

According to Dr Sharma, current fitness trackers often don’t provide enough detail for physiotherapy. SeamSleeve is unique in that it covers the entire arm, allowing it to capture important movement data.

“We’ve successfully developed a working system based on machine learning to track 12 different arm exercises using SeamSleeve,” said Dr Sharma. “This paves the way for exciting future remote physiotherapy and exercise monitoring applications."

Professor Mike Fraser from the University of Bristol’s School of Computer Science added: "We're excited by the opportunity for clothing manufacturers to implement our designs in sleeves and other garment seams.
“We've shown that common overlocked seams in standard garment constructions can do a good job of sensing movement. The design avoids the need for a separate power source by pairing the seam with a charging coil, drawing the energy wirelessly from a mobile phone placed in the pocket.

“This means advanced motion sensing garments could be made without altering existing manufacturing processes.

"We have also shown that smartphone apps using advanced Artificial Intelligence (AI) techniques can use this movement data to match body movement to specific postures or gestures such as physiotherapeutic exercises."

Archroma is collaborating with Zydat Inc. to bring the complete Color Atlas by Archroma® color library to the Vivid Color Library Management (CLM) color-matching platform for faster and more accurate inkjet digital printing of fashion and textiles

Archroma’s Color Atlas is the textile industry’s largest library of engineered color standards, with more than 5,760 color references formulated to comply with leading eco-standards and deliver consistent and accurate color reproduction.

With these colors available within Vivid CLM’s online color palette optimization and correction tools, designers can more quickly and easily create and share their color palettes for more accurate inkjet printing. This can reduce the burden of pre-production color proofing and streamline the color management process to help deliver high-quality printed fabric and apparel in a fast and economical way.

Vivid CLM was launched by Zydat in February 2024. It offers a unique and designer-oriented solution to color matching with a proprietary algorithm that translates complex spectral data into a Red-Green-Blue workflow and allows the user to print, scan and check the color, with automatic adjustments to improve accuracy. The solution’s palette storage system allows colorists to share palettes across the ecosystem.

In addition to accessing all of the 5,760 colors in the Archroma Color Atlas portfolio as digital standards within Vivid CLM, users of the software may also choose to refer to Archroma’s physical color library in multiple formats. They can also tap into Archroma’s expertise around the world for technical support with sustainable coloration systems and achievability on alternate substrates.

The Color Atlas by Archroma® is part of the Archroma Color Management+ design and development solution for more sustainable textiles and fashion through fast color selection and creation, consistent and accurate color reproduction, and reduced environmental impact.

The summer edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris welcomed nearly 1,200 exhibitors from 26 countries. This season event was characterised by a number of new features and the dynamics remained satisfactory. Next event: February 10, 2025, in a partially renovated Paris-Le-Bourget exhibition centre for a session rich in initiatives.

The latest edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, offered in its full version with the Avantex and Leatherworld sectors, ended on July 3 with attendance levels down on the July 2023 session. Over and above a possible "Olympic Games effect" and its consequences on transport and accommodation costs in the capital, the current economic situation is prompting the show's organizers to explore all alternatives to adapt the offer to market demand. However, these results do not seem to have had any impact on the flow of business between visitors and exhibitors, who reported a fairly positive overall climate.

The dynamic on the booths remained steady and the exchanges satisfactory, as shown by several manufacturers particularly well established on the European market. Indian shirt manufacturer Sheraton Apparel, for example, made around thirty solid contacts over 3 days, and reported several serious approaches to African distributors. The same goes for SMIT, a Turkish company specialising in Made in Turkey sourcing, which was able to see its main European customers and open up new contacts with Canadian and Brazilian buyers.

An expanded offering
At the Near Sourcing Hub, the phygital sourcing space connected by QR Code to the B2B digital platform of Messe Frankfurt France partner FourSource, inquiries to exhibiting companies remained much the same as in 2023. The visitor profile, on the other hand, focused on buyers from networks of small multi-specialist boutiques looking for an original mid-to-top-range offering. It was in response to this market demand for differentiation that the show organizers decided to extend Apparel Sourcing's range to include new categories in the fashion accessories sector, such as jewelry and bags.

High-profile initiatives
Other innovations were also on show this summer. The yarn pavilion - a first conceived in collaboration with Yarn Expo, originally a Shanghai show run by Messe Frankfurt - showcased the expertise of Chinese, Indian, Pakistani and Taiwanese companies, while at the same time highlighting upstream products and services. At Avantex, where some twenty suppliers of solutions for more sustainable fashion were grouped together, the new Designer Hub enabled designers and buyers to discover some original initiatives, such as that of stylist Jean-Luc François' association, supported by Messe Frankfurt's Texpertise network, which trains people who are far from employment, or the 3D design studio Scotomalab.

Materra wins 2024 Avantex Fashion Pitch award
The Avantex Fashion Pitch jury has awarded the 2024 prize to Materra. This British start-up, founded in 2019, designs solutions to support the cotton cultivation adapted to climate change. At the other end of the chain, it offers brands a service designed on a Cotton-As-A-Service model that encourages them to source from the producers it supports. Materra will benefit from a €2,800 stand at Avantex Paris 2025 donated by Messe Frankfurt France, plus €2,000 from Texpertise Network, the textile sector network of the Messe Frankfurt Group, and 1 year's incubation at Foundry donated by IFA Paris, official partner of the competition.

A trendy area at Leatherworld
New for 2024, the Leatherworld sector inaugurated its Leather Trend area, developed in collaboration with publisher Edizioni AF and the Arsutoria School design centre. Designed around the expertise of Italian companies specialising in the manufacture of leather shoes and bags, this inspirational space presented the autumn-winter 25-26 trends through 4 creative axis built around the expression of simplicity, nature, dynamism (sportswear collections) and finally romanticism. Leather Trend was also an opportunity to discover the new leather tanning technology developed by Ecotan, which avoids the use of metals (Chrome) and chemicals in the leather preparation stages thanks to the use of vegetable tannins.

adidas announced preliminary results for the second quarter of 2024. In Q2, currency-neutral revenues increased 11% versus the prior year. In euro terms, the company’s revenues grew 9% to € 5.822 billion (2023: € 5.343 billion). Excluding Yeezy sales in both years, currency-neutral revenues increased 16% during the quarter.

The company’s gross margin reached 50.8% in Q2 (2023: 50.9%). The underlying adidas gross margin improved strongly, reflecting better sell-throughs, reduced discounting, lower sourcing costs and a more favorable category mix. The significantly smaller Yeezy business had a negative impact on the year-over-year comparison. The company’s second quarter operating profit increased to € 346 million (2023: € 176 million), including a contribution of around € 50 million from the sale of parts of the remaining Yeezy inventory.

Following the better-than-expected performance during the quarter and considering the current momentum, the company has increased its full-year guidance. adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues to increase at a high-single-digit rate in 2024 (previously: increase at a mid- to high-single-digit rate). The company’s operating profit is now expected to reach a level of around € 1.0 billion (previously: to reach a level of around € 700 million).

Within its guidance, the company assumes the sale of the remaining Yeezy inventory during the remainder of the year to occur on average at cost. This would result in additional sales of around € 150 million and no further profit contribution during the remainder of the year.

The company continues to expect unfavorable currency effects to weigh significantly on the company’s profitability this year. These effects are negatively impacting both reported revenues and the gross margin development in 2024. This was particularly the case during the first half of the year.

Polartec, a Milliken & Company brand and premium creator of innovative and more sustainable textile solutions announced the launch of its newly revamped website. Designed to deliver a seamless and engaging browsing experience for all, the site now caters more effectively to the company’s brand partners and its growing base of direct consumers. It also makes it easier for users to discover the Polartec performance guarantee.

The new website features a fresh new look and feel, along with significant enhancements to improve the user experience. With a strong emphasis on accessibility and user engagement, the revised site ensures that visitors can quickly find the information they need, whenever and wherever they want it. Key features include:

• Modern Design and Structure: The site’s intuitive navigation and streamlined design allow our users to access vital information quickly and easily from any entry point.
• Dynamic Animation: Integrated modern animation enhances engagement and facilitates the interactive and highly enjoyable browsing experience.
• Optimized Content: Overhauled and strategically optimized for SEO, the new content reflects our refreshed positioning while ensuring high visibility in search engine results.

Just as Polartec is dedicated to pushing the boundaries of textile innovation while prioritizing the planet, the new navigation menu reflects this commitment by ensuring fast, easy access to primary sections and important information. And, by highlighting sustainable practices, groundbreaking fabrics and exclusive textile technologies, the new website meets the needs of renowned sportswear apparel companies, top-tier athletes and everyday users alike.

• Fabrics: Explore Polartec’s extensive range of high-performance fabrics.
• Sustainability: Learn about Polartec’s commitment to sustainability and eco-friendly practices.
• Brands: The newly named Products section features our partner brands and their products
• News: Stay up to date with the latest information and company news.
• About Us: Gain insights into Polartec’s company values and mission.