From the Sector

Jamé’s concept.   
Jamé is inspired by the ancient Pay-Jamé: a piece of clothing that a woman or a man used to wear for fluid wellbeing 24/7 regardless of the activity, or the location, or duration time it is needed for. It’s a comfy refined outfit to make people feel free.

Jamè’s values.
Jamé is designed and made in Italy, digitally printed and created to deliver wellness, style, and 24/7 comfort.  
Jamé’s fabric of choice is Bemberg™, a textile that gives Jamé the highest contemporary qualities: Jamé garments are cool in summer, warm in winter, perfect all year round, fashionable, trendy and versatile. The ideal companion for everyday activities, Jamé is perfect for both indoors and outdoors, the perfect outfit for every occasion, day or night.

Environmental responsibility.
Every Jamé clothing is 100% recyclable and manufactured following a very contemporary and responsible made-to-order business model. The latest and greatest digital print technology assures us to avoid waste and over-production.
This means endless customization possibilities, creating a long lasting, high-quality product.

Styling.
Thanks to the expertise and knowledge of its founders Patrizia Marforio and Niccolò Zucchi Frua, Jamé’s vision is deeply rooted in the Italian design and textile tradition.
Jamé's historic archive - made up of more than 17.000 different textures from the 1920s to present day - seamlessly translating into the widest and deepest pattern choice in this one-of-a-kind collection.

Jamé’s fabric of choice:
Bemberg™ is the name of a technologically advanced fiber produced by Asahi Kasei. Bemberg™ is based on regenerated cellulose fiber made from the smart tech transformation of cotton linters.
As a pre-consumer material obtained from the manufacturing process of cotton seeds oil that is converted into fiber through a traceable and transparent closed loop process, Bemberg™ DNA is deeply based on a circular economy approach.
Bemberg™ is gentle on the skin, with amazing touch and exceptional moisture management properties: it quickly absorbs and releases moisture through very small waterways, keeping the wearer cool, fresh, and comfortable at any time of the year.

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) and Textile Exchange are delighted to announce the renewal of the global ISO IWA 32:2019 proficiency test for a second year in a row, under technical support from Wageningen Food Safety Research.

The initiative aims to provide the sector with an up-to-date overview of global laboratories that can currently conduct GMO testing as per the ISO IWA 32:2019 protocol – a common language among laboratories worldwide to screen for the potential presence of genetically modified (GM) cotton along the organic cotton value chain.

The joint project involving three global NGOs in the textile sector, announces that it has reached a new milestone with an expanded list of twenty-one laboratories from Europe, Asia and North America who have successfully passed a new round of the proficiency test in 2021.

As qualitative GM cotton screening using the ISO IWA 32:2019 protocol is mandatory within the GOTS and OCS (Organic Content Standard) supply chain and OCA’s Farm programme, the expanded list will provide many stakeholders in Organic Cotton with the clarity they need for taking all reasonable precautions to prevent GM cotton in their organic cotton produce while supporting the rapid sector growth seen globally.

The updated overview of the laboratories that successfully passed the proficiency test in 2021 has now been jointly published by GOTS, OCA and Textile Exchange.

The initiative now in its second year, will drive greater transparency along the organic cotton supply chain in a move that the partners hope will become a fixed bi-annual initiative stemming from the positive feedback from the initial launch in 2020.

The textile service provider Hohenstein has successfully extended its accreditations as a testing laboratory and certification body to include FFP (Filtering Face Pieces) respiratory masks in accordance with DIN EN 149, thus completing its portfolio in the textile mask sector. The necessary functional and safety tests on community masks, medical masks and FFP respiratory masks contribute to consumer safety. In addition, Hohenstein has not only been a member of the German Mask Association since September 2021, which pools the expertise of all mask manufacturers and suppliers in Germany, but also supports the Quality Working Group with its expertise in the field of textile protective clothing.

Filtering Face Pieces are primarily used for the self-protection of the wearer and are intended to protect from harmful aerosols, particles and droplets. There are different protection levels for FFP respiratory masks (FFP 1-3), depending on how well they retain liquid and solid particles. In occupational safety, they are part of personal protective equipment (PPE) and fall under category III. Their protective function is specified throughout Europe by the DIN EN 149:2009-08 standard, which requires laboratory tests and practical performance tests with test persons. The Hohenstein testing laboratory carries out reliable proof of the safety of FFP respiratory masks in several test steps:

• Through visual inspection, the Hohenstein experts assess the correct labelling, the comprehensibility of the enclosed instructions for using the masks, as well as the functionality and packaging.   
• Laboratory tests can determine, among other things, breathing resistance, filter medium transmittance and inward leakage. The practical performance of FFP respiratory masks is assessed through realistic tests with test persons.
• Test persons can also be employed to assess other parameters such as skin tolerance, field of vision or headgear comfort.
• Optional tests, such as testing FFP respiratory masks for harmful substances, complete the safety verification.

Since the beginning of the pandemic, a particularly large number of FFP respiratory masks with doubtful and even false labelling have been in circulation, so reliable and neutral testing and certification of these products is essential. Hohenstein, with its many years of extensive experience in the testing and certification of personal protective equipment, thus offers the ideal service for customers who value testing quality "Made in Germany".

As a testing laboratory for medical devices, Hohenstein also offers testing of medical face masks for their bacterial filtering performance, differential pressure as an indicator of breathing activity, microbiological purity and cytotoxicity, among others. Medical face masks fall under the Medical Devices Regulation 2017/745 and fulfil the requirements according to EN 14683. The testing service provider Hohenstein has already taken a big step towards safety and functionality with the introduction of its quality label for Tested Community Masks in June 2020 and also tests according to the first European Guideline for Everyday Masks, the CEN Workshop Agreement (CWA) 17553:2020.

After thorough consultation with the exhibitors and partners of the event, JEC Group has decided to postpone the 2022 edition of JEC World. The world’s leading composites event will now take place from May 3rd to 5th, 2022, at the same venue Paris Nord Villepinte, as well as online via the JEC World Connect digital platform.

JEC World gathers the whole value chain of the composite materials industry in Paris, France every year and is “the place to be” for composites professionals from all over the world. The event brings together not only all major global companies, but also innovative startups in the field of composites and advanced materials, experts, academics, scientists, and R&D leaders. JEC World is also the “festival of composites”, offering a unique showcase of what composites can offer to various application sectors, from aerospace to marine, from construction to automotive, and an unlimited source of inspiration for participants from these industries.

“We are fully dedicated to supporting the composites industry and to fostering its development via our events and media activities. Exhibitors and partners are strongly supporting JEC World, their leading event and want to meet in person in 2022 to activate business, share knowledge and highlight innovations. Postponing from March to May is a way to offer improved conditions to satisfy the industry requirements for such a trade fair as JEC World”, says Eric Pierrejean, CEO of JEC Group.

The JEC World team has decided to postpone the event after conducting a survey of its exhibitors and partners, confirming that a large majority is in favour of the new dates in May. As already planned, for three days, the event will offer for the first time a digital platform, JEC World Connect, in parallel to the in-person event in Paris for an augmented digital experience. Even after the show, via the JEC Web TV, unique content will be available to extend the reach of the event.

“Our main concern is to create the best possible conditions for our participants for successful networking, inspiration and business success. With a postponement of eight weeks we can enable this and offer to the industry the event it deserves. Taking the decision now, after consultation of all exhibitors, was necessary to give them planning and preparation visibility,” adds Thomas Lepretre, VP Events, Sales and Operations.

Sistema Moda Italia confirms its Innovation Area for the 34th edition of Milano Unica, an area which responds to the growing demand for innovation in products, processes and services able to give specific performances or made with innovative and sustainable systems. And right here we find Sitip’s technical fabrics for clothing, with the COSMOPOLITAN Fashion-tech fabrics collection, modern and comfortable, dedicated to contemporary urbanwear/sportswear style and which perfectly meets the new needs required by the market and by the final consumer: performance and design.

COSMOPOLITAN Fashion-tech is declined into urbanwear through the sartorial technical fabrics that the company has defined Techno Sartorial: a tailoring that combines flawless cuts with exceptional fabric performance.

For the production of contemporary urbanwear, thought for the city, Sitip showcases the man’s suit made of jacket+trousers in warp-knit Cosmopolitan Citylife fabric: bi-stretch nylon with UV protection (UPF 50+), quick drying, easy care and skin comfort. Highly performing, breathable, comfortable, insulating and with an exceptional fit: incredible elegance and comfort that enhance the contemporary urbanwear style.

For women, Sitip presents COSMOPOLITAN Fashiontech fabrics dedicated to athleisure, with leggings made - for the summer version - in Cosmopolitan London, a bi-stretch circular knitted fabric, no seethrough, breathable, comfortable on the skin with UV protection (UPF 50+), with easy care and perfect shape retention, and - for the winter version - in Cosmopolitan Paris GZ, a circular knitted fabric raised on the reverse side, with the same properties as the previous one and thermoregulation characteristics.

The Instinct fabric is available in the recycled and raised version NATIVE INSTINCT GZ: a GRS certified thermal fabric made with pre-consumer recycled yarns, bi-stretch, breathable, resistant to pilling, easy care and high comfort, ideal for sporty knitwear and urbanwear part of the NATIVE SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES family, the Sitip fabric collection produced with GRS certified recycled yarns and low environmental impact chemicals with a lower consumption of natural resources , able to respect the environmental and social criteria extended to all the stages of the production chain, including the traceability of raw materials. Sitip also operates in line with international certifications such as OEKO-TEX®, BLUESIGN®, GRS and adheres to the ZDHC gateway, adding to these an ISO 14001 environmental management system, which certifies the company’s commitment to reducing pollution risks.

Hohenstein, a leading specialist in fit and pattern engineering, has joined forces with digital size pioneer, Presize. The partnership now offers a variety of business services, including reliable size tables and digital scaling, that empower online retailers to automatically recommend appropriate garment sizes.

Merging traditional size tables, reliable garment fits and digital body measurements with smartphone technology reduces the number of returned online purchases. Proper fit also reduces waste, lowers footprint and bolsters customer loyalty.

“The better a brand understands sizes, fits and target groups, the more accurately they can automate size recommendations. We help brands meet the different requirements of various sizes, so the fit is comfortable across customer ranges, collections and suppliers,” states Simone Morlock, Head of Hohenstein’s Digital Fitting Lab.

This size and grading advice is now underpinned by digital measurement services and technology based on artificial intelligence. “All it takes to work out the right size, based on a user’s individual body measurements, are some quick questions regarding their age, height and weight, plus an optional video to take measurements. We use an algorithm that learns as it goes along, and this improves the advice given on sizes with each order or return,” states Presize co-founder and CEO, Leon Szeli.

Join the free webinar on “Hohenstein Meets Presize - How sizing fundamentals and reliable fit can increase the effectiveness of smartphone body measurements and reduce eCommerce returns” on March 24, 2022.*

*Click here for more information.

CO₂ as renewable carbon source
Carbon is the main element in numerous materials used in industrial processes and in our daily lives. It is currently mostly provided from fossil sources. But what if carbon could be used directly from CO₂ emissions? Biotechnology shows particularly great potential for the eco-effective conversion of climate-damaging CO₂ emissions into valuable basic chemicals. A consortium of 12 partners investigated this pathway in the EU-funded BioRECO₂VER project, examining the conversion of CO₂ emissions from refineries and the cement industry into the chemical building blocks isobutene (C₄H₈) and lactate (C₂H₆O₃).

Innovative chemo-enzymatic concept for CO₂ Capture
Project partner Luleå University of Technology (LTU) focused on the first process step of capturing and concentrating CO₂ from industrial point sources. Their team developed a hybrid chemo-enzymatic process consisting of a novel solvent blend and an ultrastable carbonic anhydrase (CA) enzyme. The solvent blend included an amino acid ionic liquid and a tertiary amine and displayed a good compromise between enzyme compatibility, absorption rate, capacity and desorption potential. In addition, LTU generated ultrastable enzyme mutants that showed 50% increased resistance to selected flue gas inhibitors compared to the original CA. This 3-component CO₂ capture process was scaled up in a pilot rig, and the set-up further used for real off gas pre-treatment in the project.

Two unique pilots for biotechnological CO₂ Conversion/Utilization
The biotechnological conversion of (captured) CO₂ and the co-substrate hydrogen by microorganisms poses technical and economic challenges because it takes place in the liquid phase and the substrates are gases which are poorly soluble. The BioRECO₂VER project investigated two approaches to address this: fermentation under elevated pressure and bio-electrochemistry with in situ production of hydrogen.

Pressurized fermenter
Project coordinator VITO designed a flexible and multifunctional high-pressure fermenter, customized for research activities with advanced online sensors, monitoring and control, and also including a membrane filtration unit to achieve high concentrations of the microbial biocatalysts. The set-up was broadly tested in the BioRECO₂VER project both with pure CO₂ and CO₂-rich off-gases but can also be used for investigations involving other poorly soluble gases, such as methane, oxygen, or synthesis gas. Pressures up to 10 bar can be applied.

First solely CO₂-based bio-electrochemical platform
University of Girona designed and tested a bio-electrochemical platform. The key differentiators of the pilot plant are:

• Two parallel lines to test engineered strains and bio-electrochemical systems
• Fully automated pilot plant capable to control key operational parameters (pCO₂, pO₂, pH₂, pH, Temperature) to intensify the process performance
• Solid-liquid separation unit (membrane) to recover the planktonic cells and return them into the bio-electrochemical systems.

This unique infrastructure will be used beyond the project to support further research and development activities in the broad area of CO₂ capture and conversion.

The final program will provide valuable information on the various use-opportunities for cellulosic fibres through a policy overview, a special session on sustainability, recycling and alternative feedstocks, as well as the latest developments in pulp, cellulosic fibres and yarns. In addition, examples of non-wovens, packaging and composites will offer a look beyond the horizon of conventional application fields.

You can expect to see the “Top 6” candidates of the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2022” in Cologne. For the second time, the innovation award will be granted to the innovative cellulose fibre industry for developing new technologies and applications. All producers and inventors along the entire value chain from feedstock to the final product are invited to join the competition. The Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2022 Award will be voted for by conference delegates as well as online participants on the afternoon of 2 February.

The internationality of this Cellulose Fibres gathering is reflected in its colourful line-up of international speakers. 42 speakers from 12 countries will demonstrate the differences in regional development paths and their transferability to other areas.

You can view the final program here.

Weihnachten ist die Zeit des Gebens – und der Januar traditionell der Monat des Zurückgebens. Ob der zu große Pullover oder das T-Shirt in einer Farbe, die man seit Jahren nicht mehr getragen hat: Das im Januar traditionell erhöhte Retourenaufkommen stellt Einzelhändler jährlich vor Herausforderungen. Mit Omnichannel-Lösungen und dem R-Turn-Tag von Checkpoint Systems können Einzelhändler ihr Retourenmanagement verbessern und betrügerische Retourenversuche reduzieren.

Produktrückgaben sind kein neues Phänomen. Sie sind ein unausweichlicher Aspekt des Verkaufs von Waren. Eine klare und faire Rückgabepolitik ist nicht nur gesetzlich vorgeschrieben, sondern trägt auch wesentlich zu einem kundenfreundlichen Einkaufserlebnis bei. Da jedoch die Online-Verkäufe allgemein und auch pandemiebedingt in die Höhe schnellen, fungieren die physischen Geschäfte zunehmend als Sortierzentren für Rücksendungen. Im ersten Pandemiejahr 2020 wurden im Online-Weihnachtsgeschäft 1,1 Billionen Dollar weltweit umgesetzt. [1] Für 2021 liegen noch keine Zahlen vor, der Verdacht liegt jedoch nahe, dass die Zahlen weiter gestiegen sind. Nach Angaben des Beratungsunternehmens Invesp werden mindestens 30 % aller online bestellten Produkte zurückgegeben, im Vergleich zu 8,89 % bei Käufen in stationären Geschäften. [2] Dies führt zu Kostenproblemen und zusätzlicher Komplexität für die Einzelhändler.

Sobald ein Artikel zurückgegeben wird, wird er nicht einfach wieder ausgestellt. Jeden Tag treten Tausende von Artikeln ihre kostspielige Reise zwischen Verarbeitungszentren und Lagerhäusern an, wo sie gereinigt, neu verpackt und für neue Besitzer vorbereitet werden. Das ist zum einen zeitaufwendig, zum anderen stellt es Einzelhändler auch bezüglich der Bestandsübersicht vor Herausforderungen. Und wenn der Artikel dann wieder in die Läden kommt, sind die Produkte oft nicht mehr in der Saison und müssen mit einem Preisnachlass verkauft werden.

Effiziente Verwaltung von Retouren durch RFID
Wie kann dieser Rückgabeprozess effizienter gehandhabt werden? Wie kann die Bestandsübersicht aktuell gehalten werden und wie wird sichergestellt, dass die Artikel so schnell wie möglich wieder verkauft werden, bevor sie aus der Mode kommen?

Der Schlüssel für eine effiziente Retourenverwaltung liegt in der RFID-Technologie. Gerade im Januar mit seinem erhöhten Retourenaufkommen sparen Einzelhändler durch den Einsatz von RFID wertvolle Zeit, da durch das Einscannen der Produkte gleichzeitig der Bestand aktualisiert wird. Einzelhändler können so sicher sein, jederzeit einen Bestandsüberblick in Echtzeit zu haben und wissen jederzeit, welche Ware sich aktuell wo befindet – im Geschäft, im Lager oder im Versandzentrum. Das spart personlaufwendige händische Inventurzählungen und sorgt dafür, dass die Artikel schneller wieder auf die Fläche zurückgelangen – und dort wieder verkauft werden können.

Wardrobing: Betrügerische Rückgaben reduzieren
Seit einigen Jahren leiden Einzelhändler unter einem besonderen Rückgabephänomen: Wardrobing. Kunden kaufen Kleidung, Schuhe und andere Artikel mit der Absicht, sie zu bestimmten Anlässen zu nutzen oder zu tragen und sie anschließend wieder an den Einzelhändler zurückzugeben. Gerade für Weihnachten oder Silvester wünscht sich der eine oder andere ein besonderes Outfit – und gibt dies im Januar als ungetragen zurück. Wardrobing wird von 85 % der Einzelhändler bestätigt [3] und sie geben zu, dass betrügerische Rücksendungen „erhebliche“ oder „sehr erhebliche“ Auswirkungen auf ihr Geschäft haben. Wie können Einzelhändler mit solch betrügerischen Retouren umgehen und deren Zahl verringern?

Die Lösung ist der R-Turn-Tag von Checkpoint Systems. Dieses Etikett verhindert wirksam, dass Kunden Waren kaufen, benutzen und gegen volle Rückerstattung zurückgeben, ohne ehrliche Kunden zu beeinträchtigen. Denn der Tag ist so am Kleidungsstück platziert, dass er beim Tragen jederzeit sichtbar wäre und wirkt so visuell abschreckend auf potenzielle Wardrober. Die Kunden können den Tag zu Hause mit ein paar einfachen Handgriffen sicher entfernen, da sie dank des innovativen Verriegelungsmechanismus nie mit dem Pin des Tags in Berührung kommen. Einmal entfernt, kann er jedoch nicht wieder angebracht werden und kennzeichnet das Kleidungsstück daher als getragen.

Das Etikett kann an jeder beliebigen Stelle des Kleidungsstücks, auch am Saum, angebracht werden. Einzelhändler können den Tag an der Quelle anbringen, um eine präzise Platzierung zu gewährleisten, oder im Geschäft, indem sie eine vertikale Anbringung verwenden, die den Stoff nicht beschädigt oder markiert. Die Personalisierung des R-Turn-Tags mit Branding, Logo, Farben und/oder Botschaften des Einzelhändlers sorgt für ein ansprechendes Design

[1] https://www.salesforce.com/news/press-releases/2021/01/12/all-wrapped-up/
[2] https://www.invespcro.com/blog/ecommerce-product-return-rate-statistics/
[3] https://theloadstar.com/retailers-hit-for-added-transport-costs-as-wardrobing-becomes-the-fashion/  

The Hygiene Division of Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) is pleased to announce that two of its manufacturing sites have achieved International Sustainability Carbon Certification Plus Certification.

FiberVisions’ Varde site in Denmark, a polypropylene fiber producer, and Avgol’s Uzlovaya site in Russia, a spunlaid nonwovens producer, satisfied audits related to traceability and the reasonable use of biomaterials.

Shachar Rachim, CEO, IVL Hygiene Division, part of IVL’s Fibers business segment, said: “This accreditation underscores our commitment to support our customers to achieve their carbon dioxide reduction targets through using carbon neutral fibers. The certification is assurance that our nonwoven fabrics and fibers meet all the ISCC’s demanding standards for recycled-renewable materials. Our certified facilities can trace the product’s composition through the supply chain, without needing to requalify the materials.”

IVL expects that the ISCC Plus certification of these two sites will be followed by similar certifications at other manufacturing plants. A broad portfolio of technologies is being developed to address how component materials interact with the environment to improve recyclability, reduce raw material consumption, and minimize the impact of fugitive wastes.