From the Sector

• Connect people, data and processes with Lectra’s latest solutions to power up design and development teams

Paris – Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, introduces collaborative solutions specifically developed for design and product development teams, enabling fashion companies to affront tighter deadlines and handle wider product mixes with speed and serenity.

With the rise of e-commerce, digitally dependent consumers expect personalized, innovative fashion delivered to their doorstep at the click of a mouse.

Fashion companies are struggling to keep up with consumer demands and looking for new ways to speed up design and development without compromising quality. Design teams work faster than ever to deliver fresh, eye-catching collections. Product development teams rush to transform new designs into consumer-ready products. Given the accelerated pace of the fashion marketplace, information sharing has become vital for these teams.

Lectra has developed two new solutions to fulfill the specific needs of these teams, Lectra Connected Design and Lectra Connected Development. These solutions deliver collaborative environments that integrate business applications to aggregate, standardize and store data from all design and product development stages. These innovative solutions make every-day working life less stressful by allowing criteria-based searches, inciting users to capitalize on data links, and providing them with innovative tools and services to speed up their processes.

Lectra Connected Design facilitates collaboration between textile and fashion designers, colorists, graphic designers, technical designers and their managers by providing design teams with a connected environment. Team members can access the platform via their Lectra Kaledo® design software and Adobe® Creative Cloud, share inspiration and review collections together or upload inspirations via dedicated mobile apps. This solution gives users the visibility needed to streamline, automate and monitor the entire design process to ensure that they remain creative under severe time constraints.

In the same way, Lectra Connected Development connects patternmakers, graders, technical design teams, managers, cost and margin specialists, marker makers and sample teams through data. It allows team members to connect through Lectra Modaris® 2D and 3D patternmaking software and Lectra Diamino® Fashion marker-making software. Thanks to the wide range of standard libraries and mobile applications provided, teams will improve the efficiency of technical specifications creation. The automation of business processes and real-time communication allow product development teams to avoid errors and deliver the right product quality and fit.

“We recognize first and foremost that today’s fashion industry professionals need to feel well-equipped and at ease in order to perform well under tight deadlines,” explains Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra. “We are confident that by introducing a new and easy way of collaborating through sound data management, both offers will help design and product development teams work faster and more easily to build quality into the products they design and develop. That way, they can reach their fullest potential as key contributors to their companies’ success.”

On Febuary 20, 2018 – Hexcel congratulated Airbus on delivering the first A350-1000 to Qatar Airways earlier today, following successful FAA and EASA Type Certification on November 21.
Hexcel is a major supplier of advanced materials for the A350 XWB program, and composite materials make a significant contribution to the weight savings, performance and fuel efficiency of both aircraft in the family, the A350-900 and the A350-1000. This stretched version of the aircraft is 7 meters longer than the A350-900, carries an additional 40 seats, and offers similar unrivalled comfort and efficiency. Both versions are powered by latest generation Rolls-Royce Trent XWB engines.

Hexcel’s HexPly® M21E/IMA carbon fiber/epoxy prepreg is used to manufacture all composite primary structures of the aircraft, including the fuselage panels, keel beam, wing and empennage. The lower wing cover is the biggest single civil aviation part ever made from carbon fiber and spans 32 meters long.

A further advancement is the introduction of CFRP in other structural components such as the pylon upper spar and door surround. For the first time on an Airbus aircraft, Hexcel’s HexMC® carbon fiber/epoxy molding compound has also been used for the A350-1000 fuselage crutches.

“I send my congratulations to Airbus on delivering the first A350-1000 to Qatar Airways,” said Nick Stanage, Hexcel Chairman, CEO and President. “Hexcel is proud to be a partner-supplier to Airbus and to have Hexcel carbon fiber and composite materials incorporated into so many structural parts in the A350 XWB family.”

The market for the production of carpet yarn is increasingly evolving towards more demanding processes. However, beyond commodity products, standard plants can no longer fully exploit their advantages. From 20th to 22nd March 2018, Oerlikon Neumag will be presenting an economical alternative in Shanghai in hall W3, booth F03 at the Domotex asia/Chinafloor, the leading floor covering trade fair in the Asia-Pacific region: the BCF plant Sytec One with single-end technology.

If the requirements for the production of BCF yarns increase, for example, from recycled polyester or fine filaments, then this can also lead to higher breakage rates. Highly standardised production plants must then often strike compromises with regard to throughput, quality or cost-efficiency. In such cases, the Sytec One offers a good solution instead of the mostly three-end technology plants for standard processes.

Single-end technology with 98% productivity

This BCF plant works with only one yarn (end) per position, making it ideal for demanding production processes. The reason: when a yarn break occurs only one yarn tears, all other yarns continue to run. This not only simplifies troubleshooting, it also reduces the re-threading time. In addition, less waste is produced. As a result, the productivity of the Sytec One is still over 98% for ten breakages a day, while a plant with three-end technology only reaches around 92%.

Faster processes due to a straight yarn path

In addition, the absolutely straight yarn path of the Sytec One enables significantly higher process speeds of up to 15% in spinning and texturing processes compared to multi-end technologies. Higher total titers of up to 6,000 dtex can also be produced without any problems. The gentle yarn guidance also ensures minimum friction on the individual filaments. This means less yarn breaks and a more stable process.

Optimised key component: spinning pack

Last but not least, the engineers at Oerlikon Neumag have developed a new design for the spinning pack. This central component of every BCF machine significantly influences the yarn quality. The corresponding solution for the Sytec One optimises the polymer flow in the spin pack, thus reducing the polymer dwell time. This leads to shorter product and colour change times and increases the plant efficiency. In addition, the spinning packs were widened so that yarns with up to 500 filaments can now be produced.

The product mix is decisive

In view of these advantages, the single-end Sytec One is recommended for processes with high breakage rates, fine filaments, frequent colour changes or in general when demanding processes take up an increasing share in the business. "The product mix is decisive for the choice of technology," sums up Alfred Czaplinski, Sales Manager BCF at Oerlikon Neumag. "We are happy to advise on the optimal solution and offer both single-end and three-end plant technologies." 

Good business at the Domotex Hanover, Germany

In the run-up to the trade fair, the Domotex Hanover in mid-January was already proving to be a promising harbinger. With four lively trade fair days and contract conclusions in the lower double-digit million euro range, mainly from the European and Asian markets, the order intake for Oerlikon Neumag was very good.

Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 with patented, dual-action technology

SANITIZED AG presents a new unique dimension to odor-management for functional polyester textiles. The newly developed wash-resistant Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 has a dual-action effect: on the one hand it prevents the bacteria from docking on the textile, and on the other, it adsorbs odors whilst the garment is being worn. The underlying technology that has been further developed was awarded the Swiss Technology Award. Goodbye permastink!

Manufacturers of functional polyester textiles from all over the world face the same challenge: freshly washed garments develop an unpleasant odor even after a short wearing period. The cause of this undesirable effect is not the human perspiration itself, but the bacteria that break down the perspiration. This process of decomposition generates the characteristic sweet, pungent smell. Once the bacteria, or the odor molecules, have penetrated into the surface of the polyester textile, they remain there permanently. Machine wash cycles and special detergents will never completely eliminate them. The bacterial colonization produces a biofilm on the polyester, which not only causes unpleasant odors, but also has a negative impact on the properties of the material.

Surface modulation with anti-adhesive properties
This is exactly where the new, dual-action technology from SANITZED AG comes into play: the surface of the textile is "coated" with Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 in the padding process. This creates a protective film on the surface of the textile. The bacteria use this anti-adhesive protective film as the basis for latching onto the garment. The bacteria can therefore be completely washed out in a normal wash cycle, consequently preventing any biofilm from forming. An anti-adhesion test method was developed in cooperation with EMPA to prove this Wash Effect.

The second advantage: Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 has a high adsorbing effect. Odors are "trapped" and removed during a normal wash cycle. The new product is the result of a technology that has been further developed and was awarded the Swiss Technology Award. The odor adsorption is identified using GC-MS.

As the Product Manager at SANITIZED AG, Urs Zihlmann, succinctly puts it: "Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 marks the end of permastink in polyester textiles." Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 can be combined with other Sanitized®products, in particular with products based on zinc pyrithione. The treatment does not influence the feel of the final treated textile.

Wash-resistant, sustainable and still "no nano"
The odor-reducing function is clearly still going strong even after 50 wash cycles. This is even the case if garments are washed at 30°C, either by hand or in the machine, meaning consumers save on water and energy, not to mention that the piece of clothing will look great for longer.

As with all its other products, SANITZED AG does not use any nano technology. The Hohenstein Institute has awarded the company the rating Skin Friendly, the bluesign®registration is underway. The product also bears the label Eco Passport by OEKO-TEX®.

"The unique, dual Odor Control Function of Sanitized®Odoractiv 10 enjoys a unique position in the market and it furthermore fulfills two market requirements: the prevention of permastink and the minimization of odor intensity during wear. Almost all manufacturers of functional polyester textiles are confronted with this problem," commented Urs Zihlmann. "The new technology creates tangible added value for consumers. This is a competitive differentiating
advantage for global marketing."

As with all other products, the service provided by SANITIZED AG includes technological advice before and during production, in the definition of the verified efficacy and in the use of the Sanitized®Ingredient Brand for promotional purposes.

RONSE - Devan Chemicals, a Belgian-headquartered provider of finishing technologies, recently launched a new multifunctional antimicrobial brand line. The brand line consists of their well-known, but recently rebranded quat-silane antimicrobial solution, combined with extra features. This enables textile manufacturers to apply multiple functionalities via one single treatment.

BI-OME®, Devan’s recently rebranded antimicrobial solution, has been launched with interesting extra features. The speciality chemical provider has combined its antimicrobial technology with other functional finishes in its product range and now offers a variety of combinations:

• BI-OME® Quick dry combines the antimicrobial properties (for odour control) with advanced moisture management properties to promote efficient and faster evaporation to aid cooling and comfort.
• BI-OME® Stretch combines the antimicrobial solution with stretch recovery properties for better fit.
• A more revolutionary variation is BI-OME® AV, which has an antiviral activity in addition to its antimicrobial properties.
• Of course, BI-OME®, the antimicrobial solution without any extra features, remains available.

Devan’s experience with antimicrobial technology goes back a long time. More than 25 years of research led to the creation of the BI-OME® product range. Thanks to the combination of a cross-border support package (mill training, quality control, etc.) and unique product excellence (non-migrating, no use of silver), Devan’s antimicrobial technology is widely chosen across the globe.

BI-OME® is fully BPR and EPA compliant, Oekotex and Bluesign registered, can be delivered worldwide and is applicable for apparel, home textiles, bedding, transport & mobility, etc.

The AZL will continue its collaboration on composites in buildings and infrastructure after completing an initial market and technology study which identified new potentials for composite technologies in buildings and infrastructure markets. The aim of the new AZL Workgroup which will meet for the first time on January 25th, 2018 is to jointly develop new applications and to support the business development for composites in these two growing markets. The meeting is open to interested companies from the composite industry as well as the building and infrastructure markets.

The aim of the initial workgroup meeting will be to turn insights from the study into a long-term workgroup collaboration and to define topics and initiatives for the joint cooperation in the field of process and manufacturing technologies, fire safety regulations, materials as well as standards and norms. Industrial keynote presentations will introduce these action fields and will provide an insight into building and infrastructure applications for composites. The meeting will furthermore provide a platform to network with companies along the entire composite value chain.

Dr. Amer Affan, CEO and founder of AFFAN Innovative Structures based in Dubai is in charge of various composite projects for buildings such as the Museum of the Future in Dubai: “We have been utilizing structural composites in construction since 2010. Composites is a truly high-tech material compared with the traditional building materials (steel, concrete, timber and aluminum) but it is still to be recognized as such in the conservative and price-sensitive building industry. AZL, particularly its location at the RWTH Aachen University and its partner companies, offers a good platform to progress the use of composites in construction.”

AZL together with more than 25 companies just completed the Joint Market and Technology Study on “New Potentials for Composite Technologies in Buildings and Infrastructure” establishing a broad knowledge on business opportunities for composite technologies in these two growing markets. In a structured approach, the study determined the key segments as well as the technologies/applications with the highest market and technological potential. Analyses of 20 market segments, investigation of 438 applications, technology analyses of 25 highlight components and 11 detailed business cases were elaborated throughout the study. Additional to requirement analyses for materials and production technologies, new concepts for efficient profitable production technologies and cost engineering analysis were developed. With the workgroup, the AZL will take this initiative a step further with the aim to build a long-term cooperation platform for composites in buildings and infrastructure markets.

Justin Jin, CEO of the Korean company AXIA Materials participated in the study and is part of the AZL Partner Network: “As producer of large thermoplastic composite sheets and composite SIP (Structural Insulated Panel), we are eager to drive composites in B&I applications with the best efficient way. The AZL study on Buildings and Infrastructure provided us a great networking with key players in this business field and opportunities to strengthen our products with the key elements from partners. The study also gave us a proper market understanding including market size/volume in numbers to prove the value of this technology to building industry. We are looking forward to following up on these first insights and to realize applications with the AZL and its partners.”

Besides the networking options, the meeting will offer the opportunity to get an insight into the activities of the AZL Network consisting of nine research institutes at the RWTH Aachen Campus and more than 80 companies from 21 countries. During an optional guided tour, participants will visit selected institutes at the RWTH Aachen Campus. The meeting is open to all interested companies and free of charge.

More Information on Meeting and the Study
Information on AZL activities in the field of buildings and infrastructure:
www.azl-lightweight-production.com/composites-buildings-infrastructure
Details and registration to first Workgroup Meeting on January 25th, 2018:
http://www.azl-lightweight-production.com/termine/1st-workgroup-meeting-buildings-infrastructure

• Lectra’s latest PLM solution selected by Jinfa Labi to improve its product development process through supply chain digitization

Paris – Lectra, the world leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using fabrics, leather, technical textiles and composite materials, is pleased to announce that Jinfa Labi, one of the first publicly listed maternity and infant clothing companies in China, has chosen Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0 to help digitally transform their supply chain, making it more efficient, integrated and connected.

Spurred by the continued growth of the Chinese economy, young Chinese parents are now demanding maternity and baby products that are more personalized and sophisticated in terms of material and design. To meet these new market needs, Jinfa Labi has chosen to implement Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0 after researching on all PLM vendors in the market. With the help of this solution, the company aims to further improve their product development process by digitizing their entire supply chain, from design to production, enhancing business agility and collaboration. By embracing digitalization, the company hopes to make progress in adopting the government initiative “Made in China 2025”.

Lectra’s ultimate collaborative platform—Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0—gives fashion and apparel companies the extra speed and agility they need to tackle the challenges of Industry 4.0 head on. With the widest functional scope on the market, this technology serves as the intelligent backbone for the digital supply chain, facilitating the entire design-to-production process. This ensures a consistent flow of error-free data between process, technology and people, thus enabling organizations to quickly adapt to different business models and keep pace with the latest trends.

“As one of the first domestic companies to engage in R&D, design, production and distribution of baby clothing, Jinfa Labi is now growing exponentially. We are looking for a partner with a worldwide perspective and in-depth knowledge on the industry’s best practices,” said Lin Ruowen, General Manager, Jinfa Labi. “And Lectra fits the bill. Their latest PLM solution connects CAD, industry-standard software, company IT systems and external suppliers together, allowing us to fully digitize our supply chain by covering all production stages. We can then focus on improving our core competencies.”

“We are confident that Lectra will help Jinfa Labi make their mark for “Made in China 2025”. This Industry 4.0-based initiative will not only revolutionize the way in which manufacturers operate but also change the way in which the brands and retailers run their businesses. Lectra is committed to providing the technology and support that our customers need to thrive in this new digital era,” said Andreas A. Kim, Managing Director, Lectra, Greater China. “Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0 is the only PLM solution purpose-designed for the fashion industry that covers the entire value chain. We hope to leverage our 44 years of experience in the fashion industry to help Jinfa Labi succeed through operational excellence.”
 

As a combined effort of the CSI color team and DyStar’s technical experts, DyStar and CSI are launching the first 2 issues of the Sustainable Color and Trend magazine with Cadira® color palettes.

This new magazine inspires Designers and Color Managers by offering palettes and color combinations that are Eco-friendly and Inspired by Nature. Not only does the magazine include a wide range of color palettes, but also color validation in CSI’s Relative Color Popularity (RCP) information as well as sustainable dye recipes that have been formulated based on the Cadira resource optimization process.

The Cadira Concept is a module in DyStar’s Resource Efficiency program. It helps to considerably shorten lead times and reduce water, waste and energy consumption. Cadira Concepts have been developed for different substrates and dyeing procedures. This launch focuses on both reactive dyeing of cotton as well as polyester & recycled polyester dyeing.

The reactive-issue – Inspired by Nature – offers color palettes with softer, muted tones, levels of neutrals and earthy shades of green. The recipes are based on DyStar Levafix® and Remazol® combined with Sera® chemicals for an optimized dyeing and wash-off process.

The Polyester issue offers more vibrant color options with saturated colors and brights for active wear and outdoor clothing and accessories. The recipes are based on Dianix® dyes and the dyeing process can be optimized by use of the Optidye® PES program.

“We are conscious about our environment so we wanted to create a magazine with an ecological color and optimized processes so that our customers can pick the right color that will help them reduce their environmental impact in the design process.” Says Ron Pedemonte, VP of Sales and Marketing Americas.

CSI will fcus more on color palettes with ecological dyes and low impact processes when offering color and trend information to customers in the future. More eco-friendly color palettes will be available very soon.

More information about CSI color trends and the Cadira process is available in the DyStar Website and CSI Website. www.dystar.com / www.csicolors.com

Fashion forecaster MintModa and Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, announce a new strategic partnership leveraging the respective strengths of both companies in color creativity. Combining Archroma’s scientific color expertise with MintModa’s clear, narrative-driven color forecasts provides fashion and design-related industries with an actionable and trend-right color resource.
Launched last year, Color Atlas by Archroma offers 4320 new shades, extending their custom color business with a readily available, time-efficient color management system. MintModa’s ColoRevolution offers highly-curated color analysis and direction on its cloud-based subscription trend service. Because color plays a starring role in the visual language of social media, carefully chosen palettes are essential for capturing a new generation of connected consumers.

“People today are constantly exposed to a barrage of vibrant media on multiple devices. The customer is now visually sophisticated, a voracious consumer of ever-changing images depicting highly-styled products, places and people,” states MintModa founder and creative director Sharon Graubard. “The emotional draw of color, hardwired into humans, becomes an ever-more powerful marketing tool.”
“The Color Atlas by Archroma represents a true labor of love,” said Chris Hipps, Global Director, Archroma Color Management. “The idea is to offer our customers options they never dreamed of. We resonate with MintModa’s progressive, focused approach. In fact, we met because they were searching for a specific shade of blue and couldn’t find it elsewhere. This level of color curation dovetails with our passionate drive and relentless commitment towards excellence.”

At the “Future of Composites in Construction” trade show, CHOMARAT and ALTUS GROUP are presenting CarbonCast®, their flagship line of reinforced-concrete prefabricated wall panels, reinforced with CHOMARAT’s C-GRID® carbon-fiber grids. A recent army-hospital project in Greenville, South Carolina is another success story of this innovative product: 18,600 m² (200,000 sq.ft) of precast insulated panels were installed in record time. Come and learn more about it at the McCormick Place Lakeside Center, Chicago, Stand C 10, on 20-22 June 2017.
“Reducing installation time, improving the fire and safety performance, increasing the service life of structures, and cutting energy consumption are crucial criteria in the choice of a CarbonCast solution,” explains ALTUS GROUP Executive Director John CARSON. CarbonCast® panels are classified ASHRAE 90.1. Thanks to the low thermal conductivity of carbon fiber, C-GRID® reinforced panels offer excellent thermal performance, providing uniform insulation and, therefore, a comfortable, energy-efficient building.