From the Sector

• SGL Carbon receives €42.9 million funding under IPCEI for graphite anode materials (GAM) in lithium-ion batteries
• Funding in the amount of €42.9 million to 2028 for SGL Carbon GmbH from the German Federal Government and the Free State of Bavaria
• SGL Carbon project aims at European production of innovative anode materials as a key value-added step in electromobility

SGL Carbon, a leading supplier of graphite and carbon products, today received a funding notification for the development and industrialization of innovative anode materials made of synthetic graphite for use in lithium-ion batteries. The funding program is part of the second European IPCEI (Important Project of Common European Interest) / EUBatIn (European Battery Innovation) program, which aims at a competitive European value chain for lithium-ion batteries based on innovative and sustainable technologies.

SGL Carbon is one of a few manufacturers of synthetic graphite for anode materials in Europe. The company’s contribution to the IPCEI project ranges from the development of anode materials with increased performance, energy-efficient and sustainable manufacturing processes to novel recycling concepts. It also includes scaling them up to pilot scale and finally mass production. Over the project lifetime until 2028, the goal is to also establish a closed cycle for this cell component. SGL Carbon has already created a solid foundation for the project through previous investments such as the battery application laboratory at its Meitingen site. The German federal government and the Free State of Bavaria provide funding for the SGL Carbon project totaling €42.9 million, which can be drawn down over the duration of the project.

"With our development and industrialization project for new innovative anode materials and processes, we make an essential contribution to establishing a sustainable and competitive European value chain and circular economy for lithium-ion batteries. In turn, this enables us to support our customers with tailored materials and services in their innovation and industrialization process. We are very pleased about the support from the federal and state governments in this important task and would like to express our sincere thanks," explains Burkhard Straube, President Business Unit Graphite Solutions at SGL Carbon.

"In order to produce competitive, high-performance and particularly environmentally friendly batteries in the future, we need innovations. The companies participating in the IPCEIs base their battery materials, cells and systems pursued in the projects on their own research - in cooperation with their partners. This way, we ensure that the battery ecosystem being created in Germany and Europe will also place us among the world leaders in terms of technology," says Elisabeth Winkelmeier-Becker, Parliamentary State Secretary at the German Federal Ministry of Economics and Technology.

"The funding ensures value creation in a central high-tech segment with great future potential, which is ideally suited to Bavaria as a business location. In the course of the project, 25 jobs will be secured or newly created in Meitingen. SGL Carbon is an important company for the entire region and a major employer," says Hubert Aiwanger, Bavarian Minister of Economic Affairs and Bavarian Deputy Minister-President.
 
Synthetic graphite is utilized as anode material for lithium-ion batteries in many fast-growing applications such as electric vehicles, stationary energy storage systems and mobile consumer devices. Compared to natural graphite, synthetic graphite has a better performance, higher quality consistency and easier production scalability, as well as a better profile in terms of environmental footprint and safety in manufacturing. In the project described, SGL Carbon builds on its core competencies in the development and mass production of synthetic graphite.

• 75% recycled content yarn with no performance compromise
• A circular, endlessly recyclable solution for contract, automotive and residential carpets
• Significant resource efficiency in EqoCycle production compared to virgin-based PA6 yarn: 58% reduction in fossil fuel use; 27% less energy consumption; 37% CO₂ emission reduction

B.I.G. Yarns announces its latest development, EqoCycle, a fully recyclable PA6 yarn with 75% recycled content, offering the same high-quality performance of virgin PA6 yarn. The new recycled yarn mainly based on post-industrial waste supports contract, automotive and residential carpet manufacturers with a drop-in circular solution to reduce the ecological footprint of their end products.

EqoCycle is made with recycled granulates derived from pre-consumer recycled and regenerated PA6, certified by Control Union for Global Recycled Standard (GRS) Certification. The use of less virgin materials implicates a decrease of fossil fuels by 58% and a 27% decrease in energy consumption. On top, EqoCycle yarns allow a reduction of 37% of CO₂ eq./kg compared to the fossil based yarns. The environmental impacts of EqoCycle with 75% recycled content were calculated through an LCA analysis, verified according to ISO 14025 and EN 15804+A1 and published in an Environmental Product Declaration (EPD registration number S-P-02415).

Customers have the assurance that for every 1.000 tons of EqoCycle yarn, 13,562 barrels of oil are saved and 2.700 tons of CO₂ emission are reduced, compared to PA6 traditionally made from virgin materials.

Emmanuel Colchen, General Manager Yarns Division, comments: “EqoCycle is a perfect example of how higher resource efficiency in our industry can promote greater circularity in our customers’ industries. Minimizing waste, re-using materials, and saving energy and carbon emissions in production, it provides our customers and carpet brands with a new sustainable alternative that won’t compromise their end-product performance but will support their increasing focus on CO₂ reduction and global warming potential. All part of our wider commitment to encourage decoupling from the need for only virgin feedstocks and moving towards a circular economy for yarns and soft flooring industries.”

EqoCycle is the latest circular solution in B.I.G. Yarns’ PA6 portfolio, joining EqoBalance PA6, based on biomass balance renewable resources, which offers up to 75% CO₂ reduction. Both exemplify the company’s on-going investment in developing new products that better serve customers’ needs in a sustainable way. B.I.G. Yarns fully pursues opportunities to support and solve the global environmental challenges through innovation, investment and collaboration, as part of its sincere belief in, and broader commitment to, Social Responsibility.

The innovation of EqoCycle and EqoBalance PA6 aligns with the company’s active integration of the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) into its business activities, creating value for customers and engaging employees and value chain partners.

A technology to reduce 75% of the water typically used in denim and garment laundry processes, this innovation is evidence of the commitment by Officina+39 to a more sustainable production and planet.

An Italy-based reality with a thirty-year experience on research and chemical application in the textile sector, Officina+39 brings to the table its latest innovation, launched in occasion of Kingpins 24 Flash: the AQUALESS MISSION. It features three products for one innovative process suitable for conventional machines: REMOVER BC, a laser booster, AQUALESS AGED, a waterless compound to give denim abrasion effects and OZ-ONE POWDER, an advanced product to give garments a bleached yet eco-friendly treatment, for a worn and distressed look.

REMOVER BC
This special compound increases laser effect on indigo or dischargeable dyestuff, saving time and energy for a swifter production. Due to the speedy process it also prevents fabric tearing whilst focusing on giving a used look.

AQUALESS AGED
Ideal to give abrasion effects on denim, this waterless treatment has a reduced impact on the environment and can be applied in combination with Oz-One powder both on black and indigo denim.

OZ-ONE POWDER
The sustainable (chlorine and potassium permanganate free) way to give denim that distressed and worn look, with no need of water or high temperatures.

AQUALESS MISSION meets the needs of the industry to reduce water in manufacturing operations, pledging to meet UN’s 2030 SDG 6 of clean water and sanitation, and by doing so protects the planet and its resources.

• C.L.A.S.S. launches the Manifesto for Responsible Fashion and kicks off the CALL TO ACTION of C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021
• What does it mean to be a “game changer” in green fashion?
• What are the false myths of eco-fashion and what are the guidelines for innovating while safeguarding the planet? And how do you tell the story behind a sustainable fashion collection?

An annual competition to reward a visionary creative who combines design, responsible innovation and communication, capable of raising contemporary consumer awareness of the new values of sustainable fashion. This is the Call to Action launched to find the C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021 by Giusy Bettoni of C.L.A.S.S. in the Smart Voices panel "C.L.A.S.S. ICON: Award and Manifesto for Responsible Fashion", moderated by the green journalist Diana de Marsanich, and starring, on the 10th February, the fashion designer Gilberto Calzolari, recipient of the international award for creative visionaries in the world of fashion C.L.A.S.S. ICON Award 2020, and Federico Poletti, Marketing and Communication Director of WHITE SHOW.

C.L.A.S.S. Manifesto  

During the Smart Voice, the C.L.A.S.S. Manifesto for Responsible Fashion, the 2021 edition of the C.L.A.S.S. ICON competition and the Sustainability Formula were presented.

C.L.A.S.S. ICON Award is an international award for visionary creatives in the fashion world who are able to convey the values of sustainability not only to fashion professionals, but also to the wider public: consumers. "We created C.L.A.S.S. ICON to reward visionary designers who create their collections by combining design, innovation and responsibility and who are able to communicate the values behind their garments authentically and effectively to consumers. It's time for storymaking and storytelling to align, otherwise it's just greenwashing" says Giusy Bettoni.

From 15th of February to 15th of April it will be possible to apply by sending an email to classicon@classecohub.org, with a description and objectives of the brand, the sustainability values adopted and the strategy, the designer's profile, a photo-video story of the latest collection, and any previous awards won (all info on http://www.classecohub.org).

During the panel, designer Gilberto Calzolari, the first winner of the first C.L.A.S.S. ICON Award, shared his vision for responsible fashion and his current projects. "My brand is a laboratory of experimentation. I create fashion to open conversations and change the way people behave and think. My creativity, from the choice of fabrics and processes to the image I decide to communicate, are the weapons at my disposal. Since the beginning, I have been really excited to team up with C.L.A.S.S. in order to share a common and challenging journey, with the perspective to be part of a constantly growing network activating mutual support. I have always thought at my collections as a call to action for a better future and now more than ever my mission as C.L.A.S.S. ICON is to make people understand that commitment and sustainability can and must go hand in hand with beauty and elegance. The adage 'kalòs kai agathòs' is one of the classical teachings that should never be forgotten: aesthetics, in my opinion, is inseparable from ethics. That's why I don't just target professionals, but also the end consumer, fashionistas and beyond" says Gilberto.

"For the first edition of C.L.A.S.S. ICON in 2020 Gilberto was decreed as our chosen one, and the path together was sanctioned at that moment: the sharing of values and visions is an indissoluble bond that keeps us united over time. Like Gilberto, each ICON will be part of a community where together with C.L.A.S.S. will try to make a real smart fashion and above all create an important voice," says Giusy Bettoni.

In support of the C.L.A.S.S. ICON award, C.L.A.S.S. presented its Manifesto for Responsible Fashion, which summarises the values that C.L.A.S.S. has been researching, communicating and developing since 2007: the role of the ethical company and its transparent production, the importance of traceable and healthy products, with total respect for people and the environment. A commitment to a circular economy with a positive impact that also means safeguarding the seas, the ocean, the use of water, energy and resources.

"A Manifesto for fashion with the lowest possible impact on the planet and on people and animals’ health thanks to responsible innovation, perfectly up to the challenges of contemporary lifestyle. This is why I created the Sustainability Formula, which only exists when there is design, responsible innovation and we are able to track and measure the impact of products and processes and communicate the new values in an appropriate way. In a word, when there is knowledge" concludes Giusy Bettoni.
 
F = D x I x S x C
F= Fashion
D=Design
S=Sustainability
C=Communication

A decade long collaboration between Swiss textile innovator HeiQ and Spanish premium synthetic fiber manufacturer Nylstar, has resulted in the innovation of a revolutionary new premium antiviral and antimicrobial textile with zero pollution sustainable benefits, Meryl® Skinlife Force powered by HeiQ Viroblock Permanent, winner of ISPO Textrends Award for the Best Product.

The new technology is used exclusively on Meryl® Skinlife Force, an hi-tech fabric that combines the silver-ion active principle antimicrobial properties developed by HeiQ and Nylstar’s hydrogen-based technology which allows the creation of yarns with a very strong molecular cohesion structure. The Hydrogen molecular structure makes Meryl® Skinlife Force a high-performance fabric in terms of moisture management and breathability, offering a natural stretch without elastane as well as excellent durability thanks to its continuous and high tenacity filaments. The robust durability of HeiQ Viroblock Permanent is achieved thanks to the silver particles being added directly into the raw polymer of the yarn thereby keeping these properties active for the lifetime of garments. Fabric samples successfully demonstrated a very strong antimicrobial efficacy with over 99.99% reduction of both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria after 100 washes. Antiviral test is underway.

Both HeiQ and Nylstar will be “exhibiting” at ISPO Munich Online from February 1st to 5th. Nylstar won the Textrends 2021 Award for the Best Product in the Base Layer Category.

• Sappi implements innovative barrier paper technology to increase production

Sappi will introduce new barrier coating technology for functional paper packaging at its speciality mill in Alfeld, Germany, strengthening its position as the leading global provider of sustainable paper packaging solutions. Explaining the decision, Berry Wiersum, CEO Sappi Europe stated: “Expanding the use of our proprietary barrier coating technology underpins Sappi’s drive to maintain our leading position in barrier coated paper as well the commitment we have with our customers in developing innovative future focused packaging solutions which contribute towards a sustainable future”

•    Investment in sustainable barrier coating technology
•    Comprehensive expertise in future focused functional paper packaging
•    Where performance meets environmental accountability

The demand for paper and paperboard packaging continues to rise dramatically as consumers become increasingly mindful of the impact their buying choices have on the environment.  The call for innovative, truly sustainable solutions has never been louder. Sappi is striving to support its customers to go beyond traditional film and foil-based material solutions, growing its products ranges to meet the demands of our ever-changing world. Working directly with brand owners Sappi seeks to create future-oriented circular solutions in line with growing collective global responsibilities.

The desire to continuously evolve to meet and exceed the business needs requires ongoing investment in innovation in order to create the solutions of tomorrow. Sappi’s acquisition of Rockwell Solutions has deepened the company’s barrier paper manufacturing knowledge. Adding barrier coater capacity at Alfeld Mill further upscales our capabilities, brings this unique combination of paper, dispersion and coating technology to more customers and enables Sappi to offer customers even more competitive and attractive paper packaging solutions.

Sappi has made great strides to provide future-focused products and services – matching and exceeding the needs of consumers now and in the future – delivering recyclable packaging solutions in line with the requirements of a circular economy. Environmental accountability is at the heart of both Sappi and its customers’ needs. Through this initiative Sappi will continue to challenge the conventional packaging industry with new ideas and solutions in order to make it easier for the world and the planet to follow a circular-economy strategy.

Underwear and loungewear specialist MEY announces the launch of its product series "Zzzleepwear,” developed to improve the quality of sleep for men and women. Setting new standards in the sleepwear category, functionality and technical innovation are the focus of the product styles that also offer stylish looks and wearer comfort.

People who sleep well recharge their batteries and can start the next day full of energy. However, many people suffer from sleep problems that can have a long-term negative impact on health and well-being. MEY’s Zzzleepwear was built to address that.

„Zzzleepwear“ reflects far-infrared rays
Fabrics of the "Zzzleepwear" series are equipped with energear™ technology from schoeller®. They reflect the body's own energy, which is emitted in the form of far-infrared rays. The textile finish is based on a titanium-mineral matrix, which reflects far-infrared rays back to the body. This effect can have a positive impact on the body and its energy balance. The understanding of far infrared rays and their positive properties has its origin in Asian healing medicine. Far Eastern medicine has incorporated life energy, "Qi" in Chinese, for centuries. More and more people are discovering that their performance increases when energy balance and energy flow are in harmony. schoeller® is transferring this function to textiles, and MEY is using the finish for the first time in nightwear.

Further fabric properties and design features
For the new "Zzzleepwear" series, the energear™ coating is applied to the inside of the fabric in a honeycomb-like form. It thus represents the core of the series. In addition, the fabric with melange structure is made of natural cotton and thermoregulating fibers that provide high breathability. The large proportion of natural cotton fibers increases the wearing comfort of this special nightwear. The "Zzzleepwear" series offers different color variations, as well as outstanding design features like flat seams and an interior print in the neck area.

Podcast with soporific effect
MEY wants to lull its customers to sleep in a particularly original way: A Spotify code is printed on every item in the series. By scanning this code, customers can listen to a sleep podcast created especially for the selected pair of pyjamas. In the eleven-part good night story, the products tell their own manufacturing story, from the cotton field to the fabric production in Albstadt to the store – so boring, it will have customers nodding off in no time.

In a roundtable discussion during the recent Innovate Textiles & Apparel (ITA) textile machinery exhibition, imogo Founding Partner Per Stenflo and representatives from a number of like-minded European companies discussed the opportunities for new spray application technologies for the dyeing and finishing sector.

These technologies can achieve tremendous savings for manufacturers compared to traditional water-intensive processes it was explained at the event, held online from October 15-30th.

Pioneer
imogo – one of the latest companies to join TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – is one of the key pioneers in this area with its Dye-Max system. Dye-Max spray dyeing technology can slash the use of fresh water, wastewater, energy and chemicals by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems. This is due to the extremely low liquor ratio of 0.3-0.8 litres per kilo of fabric and at the same time, considerably fewer auxiliary chemicals are required to start with.

Obstacles
Such technologies, however, face a number of obstacles to adoption and during the ITA discussion it was agreed that 2020 has not provided the ideal climate for adventurous investors. “The textile industry is quite conservative and is definitely in survival mode at the moment and it is not the time to be a visionary,” said Stenflo. “Day to day business is about staying alive – that’s the reality for many of our customers.” Nevertheless, all of the panellists agreed that sustainable production will remain top of the agenda for the textile industry in the longer term and spray technologies for dyeing and finishing processes will be a part of it.

“Any investment in something new is a risk of course, and we have to be able to explain and convince manufacturers that there’s a good return on investment, not only in respect of sustainability, but in terms of making good business sense,” said Stenflo. “Here we could use the help of the brands of course, in putting pressure on their suppliers to be more sustainable. Governments also have a role to play, in providing incentives for producers to move in the sustainable direction. Sustainability alone will never cut it, there has to be a business case, or it won’t happen.”

Marketing
The marketing of sustainable new fibers is comparatively easy for the brands compared to explaining the difficult textile processes and the chemistries involved in fabric and garment production, he added.

“These fibers, however, currently go through all the same dirty processes that we need to get away from, so it must happen,” he said. “In developing our technologies, it has been important for us to avoid disrupting existing supply chains, stick with using off-the-shelf chemistries and dyes, and involve the dye manufacturers who are an essential part in how operations are driven today. “In fact, collaboration across the entire textile supply chain – from the brands right back to the new technology developers – is essential in moving the sustainability agenda forward.

Business models
“We are also looking into new business models in terms of how to reduce or lower the thresholds for investment and minimise the risk for the manufacturers who are looking to be the innovators,” he concluded. Also taking part in the ITA roundtable discussion were Simon Kew (Alchemie Technology, UK), Christian Schumacher (StepChange Innovations, Germany) Tobias Schurr (Weko, Germany), Rainer Tüxen (RotaSpray, Germany) and Felmke Zijilstra (DyeCoo, Netherlands).

European innovations
“It’s fantastic that all of this innovation is taking place in Europe based on established know-how and forward thinking,” said TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson.

“Spray application technologies are a perfect illustration of how new digital technologies can lead to more sustainable production, in this case by replacing water-intensive processes with the highly precise and controlled application of dyes and chemistries as vapour.
“There was a major project by the Swedish research organisation Mistra Future Fashion recently, involving many brand and academic institute partners. The project’s Fiber Bible 1 and 2 reports conclude that it’s very difficult to make assumptions that one fiber is better than another, because it’s so much about how fabrics and garments are being produced from them. The study also found that 55% of the chemicals used in a garment comes from the dyeing. This is where a number of TMAS companies can make a difference.
“An organic or recycled cotton t-shirt is not automatically more sustainable than a conventional cotton t-shirt, or even one made from synthetics – the alternative fibers are a good start but you have to consider the entire life cycle of a garment, and that includes the smart technologies in textiles production.
“TMAS members – backed by Swedish brands and advanced research institutes – are playing an active part in pushing forward new concepts that will work, and I have no doubt that digitalisation now goes hand in hand with sustainability for the textile industry’s future.”          

• Sateri pledges to Be World’s Leading Net-Positive Fibre Producer

Sateri, one of the world’s largest viscose producer, has launched its sustainability vision for 2030 to guide the company’s strategic growth in the coming decade. The Vision is anchored around four key pillars in response to environmental and social challenges faced by the cellulosic fibre industry: Climate and Ecosystem Protection, Closed Loop Production, Innovation and Circularity, and Inclusive Growth.

The Vision comes with a time-bound roadmap and measurable targets. It encompasses notable targets including net-zero carbon emissions by 2050, achieving 98% Sulphur recovery rate at all its mills by 2025, utilising textile waste and produce viscose products with 50% recycled content by 2025 and 100% by 2030, and supporting more than 300,000 local families and smallholder farmers to develop sustainable livelihoods.

Highlighting the significance of the Vision to the company, Sateri’s President Allen Zhang said, “As a raw material supplier, Sateri will do our part and respond to the urgent need to decouple growth from further resource impact. This is something that will underpin our growth, in addition to QPC (Quality, Productivity, Cost) and continuous improvement which are well-embedded in the company.”*

Sateri’s 2030 Vision was conceived after months of discussions with management members and external stakeholders including customers, brands and NGOs. The process was facilitated by BSR, a sustainability consultancy, led by its Asia Pacific Vice President, Jeremy Prepscius.

“The challenges facing the garment industry require all value chain participants to invest, innovate and integrate sustainability into their business models. This requires leadership and alignment and will need determination to succeed, which is what Sateri is striving to do,” said Prepscius.*

In the coming months, Sateri will form workgroups to develop action plans to deliver on the identified targets. Progress towards realising Sateri 2030 Vision will be reported in the company’s annual sustainability report and online sustainability dashboard.

Read more about Sateri 2030 Vision: www.sateri.com/sustainability/vision2030/

*Please see attached document for more information

• On October, 20th, 2020, the State Prize for Innovation was awarded to the Lenzing Group for their LENZING™ Web Technology.
• Lenzing thus received the highest award for particularly innovative achievements in Austria.

Lenzing – On Tuesday, October 20, 2020, the Lenzing Group was awarded the coveted “State Prize for Innovation”. Lenzing emerged as the winner with its project LENZING™ Web Technology and thus received the highest recognition for particularly innovative achievements in Austria. The novel process combines fiber and nonwovens production in only one step, setting new standards in terms of efficiency, circularity and ecological sustainability. Margarete Schramböck, Federal Minister for Digital and Economic Affairs, presented the award to Gert Kroner, Vice President Global Research & Development.

“This award is a great recognition of our work. Our goal is to grow continuously with sustainable innovations and to look beyond our fibers, to the needs of our customers and partners and to the needs of consumers worldwide. With the LENZING™ Web Technology we have created an exciting and promising solution for eco-friendly products in line with our corporate strategy sCore TEN and support consumers in their daily needs in a sustainable way”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group.

Biodegradable nonwovens for a clean environment

The pollution of the environment by plastics is one of the most urgent problems of our time. Every day, millions of hygiene products and wipes around the globe end up in garbage and sewage. Most of them consist of up to 80 percent polyester or other fossil, non-biodegradable materials and therefore pollute the environment. With the LENZING™ Web Technology, Lenzing has developed a patented technology to counter this problem: Sustainable and eco-friendly nonwovens are produced from the renewable raw material wood. These are not only plastic-free, they also score points for their particularly high environmental friendliness. “Thanks to a unique self-bonding mechanism, in which the filaments bond with each other during the spinning process, binders, which are found in many nonwovens, are no longer needed. As a result, the nonwovens produced with LENZING™ Web Technology are 100 percent biodegradable and do not pollute either humans or the environment”, says Gert Kroner, Vice President Global Research & Development of the Lenzing Group.

The Austrian State Prize for Innovation is awarded annually by the Federal Ministry for Digital and Economic Affairs to the most innovative Austrian company. In 2020, the competition took place for the 40th time.