From the Sector

As the tradition goes, twice a year the functional fabric fair Performance Days selects the most innovative fabrics, accessories and finishes for their Performance Forum. This year, two functional finishes from textile innovator Devan Chemicals (Moov&Cool® & R-Vital™) were chosen. R-Vital™ was awarded with the ‘100% Jury Like’ stamp, meaning all the members of the Jury selected the sample, a recognition only granted to a handful of the 1400 applications.

R-Vital™ – ‘100% Jury Like’
R-Vital™ is a range of microencapsulated active ingredients that boost textiles with anti-oxidative effects. The microcapsules, attached to the fibre, deliver antioxidants to the body upon friction. The ‘100% Jury Like’ sample is treated with a well-chosen blend of Ubiquinol (Q10), Sea kelp and Thyme oil, which enhances recovery after sports performances. As R-Vital™ is also suitable for other market segments, such as bedding textiles, Devan enables its customers to compose their own blend, allowing them to create truly unique products and hence properties.
Marleen Van der Auwera, BU Manager Health & Wellness is happy to see that R-Vital™ is getting some more attention. “When the technology was first launched about a year ago, we noticed people had some difficulties understanding the concept because it was so revolutionary to them”, she says. “But this recognition really indicates more and more people are seeing its potential.”

Moov&Cool®
Moov&Cool® is a patented polymer technology, providing a cool comfort feel through a combination of durable heat absorption capacity and a unique, balanced moisture transfer system. By lowering the body core temperature, the finishing treatment helps professional athletes to take their performance to the next level. Furthermore, the technology is also designed to enhance comfort during physical activities of recreational athletes.
Moov&Cool® was first launched at Performance Days in April and will be presented in full detail at the upcoming edition, which will take place on November 28^th & 29^th in Munich, Germany.

The Mechanical Engineering Industry Association (VDMA) has awarded two prizes to graduates of the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University - the dissertation prize and the creativity prize of the Walter Reiners Foundation of German Textile Machinery 2018. ITA alumnus Dr Benjamin Weise was awarded the dissertation prize for the development of novel fibres for textile charge storage devices. For their work on a guide to 4D product design, Jan Merlin Abram and Aalon Tal (both ITA students) were honoured with the creativity prize. The dissertation prize is endowed with €5,000 whilst the creativity prize contains a one-year scholarship of €250 per month. Peter D. Dornier, President of the Walter Reiners Foundation and Chairman of the Management Board of Lindauer DORNIER, presented the awards on the 18 September 2018 at the 18th Textile Machinery Forum in the Digital Capability Center in Aachen, Germany.

Graphene revolutionizes all-in-one - supercaps, reduction of terahertz radiation and antistatics

In his dissertation "Development of graphene-modified multifilament yarns for the production of textile charge storage devices", laureate Dr Benjamin Weise developed novel fibres made of polyamide and graphene and further processed them into textile surfaces. The newly developed polyamide graphene fibres are featuring a multitude of advantages:

• Due to their high performance in the charge storage area, they are predestined for use in double-layer capacitors, so-called super capacitors, or supercaps in short. Compared to lithium-ion batteries, supercaps offer significantly higher power density and a longer lifetime as no chemical reactions are taking place. towing to the graphene platelets in the filaments, it is now possible for the first time to integrate a charge storage device directly into a textile without having to sew in a rechargeable battery. This new fibre is therefore suitable for prospective use in smart textiles, for instance in a textile defibrillator.
• The new graphene-modified polyamide fibres can attenuate inident terahertz radiation up to 25 % of their original intensity. Terahertz radiation, for example, offers transmission rates of 100 Mbit/sec and is therefore of high interest for high-performance wireless communication. However, the radiation could damage sensible electronics as in aircrafts if this technology will be used widespread. Consequently, the shielding of the radiation is of high importance, e.g. in the form of fibre composite components in the aircraft, which protect the on-board electronics.
• As the fibres are showcasing a dissipative electrical conductivity, personal protective equipment is another prospective field of application.  

The development of a pilot process for graphene-modified fibres and the production of textile demonstrators are novel and disruptive attainments of Dr Weise’s PhD thesis and the reason for the award ceremony to him. Due to its outstanding properties, the European Union is funding research on graphene within the frame of the "Graphene Flagship" with an overall budget of one billion Euro (source: http://graphene-flagship.eu/project/Pages/About-Graphene-Flagship.aspx).

Modular product design of 4D products is now possible in simplified form

How can three-dimensional products change their shape over time and thus become "four-dimensional"? The students Jan Merlin Abram and Aalon Tal provide answers to this question in their project work "Leitfaden zur Auslegung hybrider morphender Textilien am Beispiel eines Scharniers" (Guidelines for the Design of Hybrid Morphing Textiles Using the Example of a Hinge), for which they were awarded the creativity prize. In their work, the students offer a guideline for the development of a four-dimensional textile from the idea to the demonstrator. Four-dimensional textiles, for example, consist of a hybrid material of elastic textile on which three-dimensional structures are printed. The fourth dimension describes the change in shape and/or a property over a defined period of time (= morphing).  This change is caused by external influences such as light and heat.

Every year, the Foundation of the German Textile Machinery awards prizes for the best dissertation, diploma or master's thesis and the creativity prize for the smartest student research project. Further prizes were awarded to Eric Otto, ITM Dresden, and Susanne Fischer, Reutlingen University.

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles has always been at the forefront of the China and Asia markets for participants to find the latest products from around the world and learn about the current market trends. This year, a series of fringe programme events together with some new show features will inspire fairgoers throughout the four-day fair.

New features for contract business

Given the growing demand for textile solutions for architecture, interior design and the hotel industry, the coming August fair will highlight leading contract upholstery suppliers with distinctive labels. In addition, the show will feature a showcase area at hall 5.1 which displays quality contract upholstery from exhibitors. The area will be decorated by interior designers, demonstrating the functionalities of different contract textile products.

To introduce the opportunities that the textile industry can capture from contract business, both domestic and international architects, hoteliers, interior designers and industry experts have been invited to share their insights about design, market, materials and project management on the Contract Business Days, on 28 & 29 August.

Naima A Khan, founder and interior designer from The Green Design in UAE, for instance, will be speaking on The Art of Sustainable Interior Design. She has worked with many international home fashion retail store developers, as well as textile and interior companies, and is experienced in using therapeutic colour schemes, sustainable materials and sunlight in different design projects. Another guest, Esra Lemmens, who is also a designer and active speaker at design events, will talk about the expanding importance of design throughout Dubai as well as her suggestions for doing business in Dubai.

Other speakers also include Martin Oliu from the international design company, Harmony World Consultant and Design (HWCD). He has participated in a broad area of design such as architectural construction & interior design and is responsible for various luxury residential and hotel design projects. Professor Thomas Charles, who has been working on industrial product design and research for user experience & consumer behaviour study, business strategy and branding designs will give a talk on ‘The Power of Innovative Design’. Trevira CS will also participate in the Contract Business Day through their Chinese representative, Jenny Zhang, who will share how the permanently flame retardant Trevira CS textiles can fit into contract business.

Digital printing and technics remain a focal point

The Digital Printing Micro Factory concept was first introduced in the 2017 edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles, and received much attention and positive feedback. To cater to the growing demand for efficient, one-step textile solutions, Global Fortune Limited from Hong Kong will work jointly with Kornit Digital and Bullmer to set up a Micro Factory at this August’s fair. An advanced digital printing system – Allegro & Cut by Kornit Allegro – will be introduced. The system streamlines the entire production process by combining printing and drying together so multiple machinery is not needed. It is also eco-friendly as one single ink set suits various fabric types, and designs will be printed in shapes and sizes that are ready for cutting. Visitors can learn more about the complete production process from printing and cutting to sewing via the onsite demonstration.

In addition to forums discussing how digital printing helps flexible production, there will also be an array of forums where some top domestic industry players will share their experience in resolving  technical problems in productions and satisfying requirements in different product tests.

Forward-looking events to ignite inspiration

The trend committee formed by international trendsetter the NellyRodiTM Agency has developed three themes, namely Caring Future, Crazy Future and Emo Future for the 2019 International Lifestyle Trends. Apart from the trend area where product displays are located, visitors can get a better understanding about the future living styles from the panel discussion and trend area tour. The agency’s creative director, Vincent Grégoire, will guide tours to explain the trend concept. He will also join other industry experts in the panel discussion on consumer lifestyle trends.

Another inspiring event during the show is the Future Talk in which representatives from different industries including fashion brand Shiatzy Chen, home appliance giant Haier, gourmets and lifestyle experts will share their perspectives on the future trends.

The show will be held from 27 – 30 August in the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai. Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Autumn Edition is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA).

To find out more about this fair, please visit: www.intertextilehome.com.

Mostafiz Uddin, Managing director, Denim Expert Ltd., founder and CEO, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange spoke at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2018 during a panel on Tuesday the 15th of May 2018 about the Transparency in the supply chain.

This makes him the first Bangladeshi garment manufacturer to participate as a panel speaker at a CFS ever. His speech revolved around the apparel industry in his home country of Bangladesh and how his vision influences the way his company manufactures.
The panel was visited by over 1300 top profile participants, including her Highness the Crown Princes of Denmark. It was opened by CEO Leslie Johnson of the C&A Foundation.

Mostafiz Uddin said after the panel: “I am thankful to the CFS organisers for giving me such a great opportunity and honour, to my country to share the true story of Bangladesh and our apparel industry.”
About Mostafiz Uddin: Mostafiz Uddin is managing director of Denim Expert Ltd., an environmentally sustainable and socially responsible compliant garment manufacturing plant in Chittagong, Bangladesh. A visionary entrepreneur in the development of sustainable apparel systems, Uddin is personally driven by social and environmental ethics and is recognised as a game changer through his introduction of sustainable practices, innovation and fashion disruption, which he sees as key to the future of the Bangladesh apparel industry.
Uddin founded the Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) to promote sustainable practices within the Bangladesh apparel industry and to improve the country’s image via various initiatives under the banner of BAE, including the Sustainable Apparel Forum, the Bangladesh Fashionology Summit and Bangladesh Denim Expo. Through these endeavours he strives to promote the advancement of sustainable practices, including environmentally sound production methods, full transparency, innovation, circularity and technology.

About the Copenhagen Fashion Summit: The sixth edition of the Summit also boasted 75 high-level speakers, including sustainability thought leader David Roberts of Singularity University; EU Commissioner for Competition Margrethe Vestager; COO Eric Sprunk of NIKE; CEO Spencer Fung of Li & Fung; Vogue US fashion director Tonne Goodman; sustainability pioneer Dame Ellen MacArthur; models and entrepreneurs Lily Cole and Edie Campbell, the founders of Highsnobiety, Vestiaire Collective, Fashion Revolution, and many more. The hosts were Amber Valletta, actress, model and entrepreneur, and Tim Blanks, editor-at-large of The Business of Fashion.

Wrapping up two days of intense leadership roundtables, conversations and business meetings was a panel discussion featuring the Strategic Partners of Global Fashion Agenda: Kering, H&M, Target, Li & Fung and Sustainable Apparel Coalition, who took the stage to address why sustainability should be a leadership priority and to discuss some of the recommendations from the Pulse of the Fashion Industry 2018 report, released the week prior to the Summit.

• New collaboration of sustainable viscose suppliers formed in China

Digital Printing Zone debuts at Spring Edition
Despite the economic ups and downs in China over the last few years, demand for premium European textiles remains high.
Whether it be premium wool for the flourishing suiting market, ladieswear fabrics, lace & embroidery for high-end domestic brands each with hundreds of stores across the country, innovative yarns & fabrics for the booming sports and activewear sectors, or original pattern designs for the thousands of new online fashion brands, European suppliers remain the go-to option for Chinese buyers looking for quality and style.

As one of the undisputed leaders in the European textile scene, Italy is always a good bellwether of the trends between Europe and China. After a less than stellar 2016, Italy’s fabric exports to the Mainland China and Hong Kong markets grew by 12.4% in the first 10 months of 2017[1]. The expected demand for European brands at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics will be most evident in the SalonEurope zone, which features exhibitors from Austria, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Switzerland, Turkey and the UK, as well as country pavilions & zones from France, Germany, Italy and Turkey.

There is also continuing demand for overseas expertise when it comes to more technical areas such as sustainability and digital printing, solutions to which can be found in the fair’s All About Sustainability area and Digital Printing Zone.

SalonEurope showcases the continent’s full textile expertise
The best of the best from Europe will be on display in this edition’s SalonEurope, with a range of products across the whole textile spectrum on offer. Some of the highlights this edition include:

• Alumo (Switzerland): celebrating its 100-year anniversary this July, Alumo has undertaken a complete refresh of their brand, highlighting the character of their mill in Appenzell, Switzerland that has deep roots in the local textile industry. This edition, they will showcase a renewed collection of luxury shirting fabrics with intricate designs and added functions such as natural stretch and wrinkle-free, and a newly enlarged, never-out-of-stock ‘Sartorial’ collection.
• Hatfil Tekstil Isletmeleri (Turkey): a Turkish-Italian joint venture, they offer a huge range of yarns including eco-friendly options such as organic, BCI and fair trade yarns, as well as cotton, Tencel, Amicor, bamboo, cashmere, modal and other varieties.
• Hohenstein Textile Testing (Germany): offering testing services, OEKO-TEX® services and certifications, the Hohenstein Quality Label and more.
• Ricamificio Paolo Italy SpA (Italy): an embroidery manufacturer, they have developed a new technique using very thin embroideries to produce a lace-like effect, which can also be customised to the customer’s requirements in no more than four weeks. They have also produced a quilt-like fabric suitable for spring / summer garments which is made from materials such as silk organdie, cotton yarn or lurex to produce a shiny effect.
• Teseo Tessitura Serica Di Olmeda SpA (Italy): for their summer 2019 collection, Teseo is inspired by the natural elements with increased attention to sustainability with GOTS-certified bio silk and eco-friendly yarns. New articles are lighter and enriched with yarn-dyes, include jacquard stripes and checks, gauze and devoré bands to add transparency, and more.

New collaboration of sustainable viscose suppliers formed in China
While the textile industry in China still has a long way to go in terms of sustainability, genuine progress is being made at both a government and company level. January of this year saw the implementation of a new environment protection tax, with companies charged for noise, air & water pollution and generating solid waste[2]. Replacing a pollutant discharge fee that had been in place for 40 years, the new tax is set by local governments – with some of the regions suffering from worse pollution setting higher rates – and also incentivises companies with lower emissions.

In another encouraging move, 10 leading global viscose producers in China have come together to form the Collaboration for Sustainable Development of Viscose (CV) to promote the sustainable sourcing and responsible production of viscose. These 10 producers collectively account for over 50% of the world’s viscose staple fibre production, and have partnered with two trade associations to adopt a sustainability roadmap for the viscose industry. Built around credible international sustainability standards and programmes, the CV Roadmap aims to provide guidance to viscose producers on sustainable sourcing and production practices.

The CV collaboration will make its debut appearance in the fair’s All About Sustainability zone, where visitors can learn more about this initiative, as well as sustainable developments in the Chinese textile industry. Apart from an educational programme and garment display area, the zone will also feature a number of exhibitors other than CV.

Digital Printing Zone debuts at Spring Edition
While digital printing is rapidly gaining traction in the global textile industry, this is especially so in China due to its potential to reduce pollution during the production process. Amongst the exhibitors looking to take advantage of this in the fair’s new Digital Printing Zone is MS Italy, a market leader in the design, development and distribution of innovative digital ink-jet printing systems and associated consumables, which serves the high-end, roll-to-roll textile printing and specialty material markets. Also exhibiting is DIGITEX which will introduce the latest digital- and inkjet-printed natural and manmade fabrics.

Apart from digital printing exhibitors, a day-long forum will inform fairgoers on the exciting possibilities of digital printing. Held on day 2 of the fair, the Fast Fashion and Digital Printing Application Forum features sessions on fast fashion technology & trends and digital printing applications. These are followed by a series of discussions on topics such as flexible supply chains, business opportunities created by digital printing and IP protection. The forum also includes a presentation on the findings of a six-month study conducted by Fashion Print, a Chinese publication, for which they visited hundreds of textile companies, printing and dyeing enterprises, as well as their suppliers to produce a research paper on the digital textile printing market and technology.

In addition to Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, four other textile fairs also take place at the National Exhibition and Convention Center: Yarn Expo Spring, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition, fashion garment fair CHIC and knitting fair PH Value.

• Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition 2018 is co-organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Textile Information Centre. For more details on this fair, please visit: www.intertextileapparel.com. To find out more about all Messe Frankfurt textile fairs worldwide, please visit: www.texpertise-network.com.

[1] http://hk.fashionnetwork.com/news/Italian-textile-industry-back-on-growth-track-in-2017,944760.html
[2] http://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile-news/china-imposes-environment-protection-tax-beginning-jan-1-239965-newsdetails.html

At the Famab award ceremony in Ludwigsburg on 23 November, the Trevira City fair stand – shown at Orgatec 2016 in Cologne last year – won the Golden Apple in the architecture category – Best Stand M. The Famab Award is a hugely prestigious accolade for integrated brand experiences. It honours major international projects in the fields of architecture (temporary or permanent) and interpersonal communication.

Trevira´s CEO, Klaus Holz, said, “We are delighted that our Trevira City has been awarded the Golden Apple. We would like to thank interior designers raumkontor for coming up with such a fantastic idea for our stand, and we´d also like to say a big thank you to the organisers for making the award ceremony at the Forum am Schlosspark in Ludwigsburg such an enjoyable experience.”

The Trevira City, which was developed by the interior designers at raumkontor and realised by Buchhold and Glindemann GmbH, took up the fair’s theme: “New Visions of Work”. Trevira City, which comprised eight houses made of fabric, showed textile solutions for modern work environments. It offered a new perspective on modern work environments where the borders between working and living become blurred, thereby demanding new approaches to design. In between the houses, an open space was created that stands for the central themes of efficient work processes: communication, creativity, inspiration, networking, and motion.

The fibre manufacturer, who was a first time exhibitor at Orgatec, presented its stand in collaboration with six fabric partners who showcased their products in one of each of the houses: Baumann Dekor, Casalegno Tendaggi, Fidivi, Hohmann, Müller Zell, Pugi. The various facets of the exhibition display the huge range of possibilities created by the participating manufacturers with their Trevira CS products.

Other fabric suppliers also contributed to the textile furnishings of the fair stand. Création Baumann, JAB Anstoetz, Mattes & Ammann, and Silent Gliss were the sponsors for the textile decorations in the two Trevira houses.

Bobingen - The Trevira City fair stand, which was presented at Orgatec 2016 in Cologne, has been nominated for the Famab Award in the category architecture. The Famab Award is a highly renowned award for integrated brand experiences. The award is presented to important international projects in temporary and permanent architecture or interpersonal communication.

Head of Marketing Anke Vollenbröker: “We are delighted that the stand concept, which was designed for us by the interior designers at raumkontor, has been nominated for the important Famab Award. We are already extremely excited to see whether Trevira City will be awarded the Bronze, Silver, or Golden Apple at the award ceremony in the Forum am Schlosspark in Ludwigsburg on 23 November.”

The Trevira City, which was developed by the interior designers at raumkontor and realised by Buchhold and Glindemann GmbH, took up the fair’s theme: “New Visions of Work”. Trevira City, which comprised eight houses made of fabric, showed textile solutions for modern work environments. It offered a new perspective on modern work environments where the borders between working and living become blurred, thereby demanding new approaches to design. In between the houses, an open space was created that stands for the central themes of efficient work processes: communication, creativity, inspiration, networking, and motion.

The fibre manufacturer, who was a first time exhibitor at Orgatec, presented its stand in collaboration with six fabric partners who showcased their products in one of each of the houses: Baumann Dekor, Casalegno Tendaggi, Fidivi, Hohmann, Müller Zell, Pugi. The various facets of the exhibition display the huge range of possibilities created by the participating manufacturers with their Trevira CS products.

Other fabric suppliers also contributed to the textile furnishings of the fair stand. Création Baumann, JAB Anstoetz, Mattes & Ammann, and Silent Gliss were the sponsors for the textile decorations in the two Trevira houses.

The session will explore what the digital revolution means for business, and how innovations in manufacturing are the new reality that help create sustainable products that last and can be scaled to suit each actor through smart customization.
IMPRIMA S.p.a. is the global holding company dedicated to research, development and innovation in the textile printing and finishing arena. It is the first Fully Digital Industrial Platform, that today can offer a fully digitalized process in every step of its manufacture. Thanks to the acquisition of 100% of the German finishing and textile printing company KBC and 100% the Italian company GUARISCO by WISE SGR, Imprima is enriched by an international outlook that makes it extremely competitive in the market, which will be reinforced in the coming months with additional acquisitions in Italy and abroad, taking care to maintain best practices in terms of quality and service and the business identity of each company. In this way, Imprima represents a preferred partner for the fashion retailers.
IMPRIMA boasts a Total Water Management guarantee through its own chemical/physical process of water depuration technologies able to reduce the consumption of water up to 90%, avoiding effluents, by circulating it in a virtuous recycling process, for example now needing only 1 liter of water compared to traditionally 12 liters needed in the past.