From the Sector

The second C.L.A.S.S. ICON AWARD expands its vision embracing fashion streetwear with an attitude and bets on DUARTE, an emerging label committed to sustainability that shows a new way of being cool, yet responsible. “The C.L.A.S.S. ICON AWARD is much more than prize, it’s an open workshop with influential professionals that will support DUARTE in reaching the next level and being able to share my vision for responsible fashion”, comments Ana Duarte.

The designer (b.1991) launched her label DUARTE in 2016 just after graduation. Since then, the fresh, colourful and power-propelling brand has conquered both catwalks and cities’ streets with a responsible message. “Sustainability means durability, fair work practices, recycled materials and zero-waste,” is Ana’s mantra. Indeed, the collection is the result of a virtuous balance between production and locally-sourced, recyclable high-quality materials harnessed from factories’ deadstock. DUARTE also means circularity, the garments can be re-used and upcycled to create new collections.

The C.L.A.S.S. ICON AWARD is a project led by C.L.A.S.S. with the special support of IDEE BRAND PLATFORM which assists fashion brands in commercial activity, WHITE Milano, international fair supporting the new generations and independent brands with special projects since its inception and responsible shopping platform Renoon. Together they will all support DUARTE for a full year at 360°, from consultancy to communication.

The European textile and apparel industry welcomes the organisation of the EU-US Summit in Brussels, and hopes that political leaders will launch a new era of closer cooperation across the Atlantic. Both the Covid19 pandemic and recent geopolitical tensions call for global solutions; the EU and the US should take a leadership role in developing that new global framework.

EU-US trade in textiles and apparel have dropped by nearly 20% in 2020 (just under €6 bln), while imports from other countries, in particular China, have increased spectacularly (+45% into the EU). At the same time, global supply chains came under pressure, and access to certain raw materials for the industry became difficult and costly.

Against this background, EURATEX does not call for protectionism, but a better functioning of global supply chains, with common rules which are applied by all. The EU and US authorities should put their full influence to establish a level playing field for our industry across the globe, promoting environmental and social standards. Sustainable and circular textiles should become the norm, thus contributing to a greener planet and creating high quality jobs.  

At bilateral level, the EU and US should resume their work on mutual recognition of standards and certification procedures, thus saving considerable costs for our companies while maintaining the highest safety standards. Custom procedures can be simplified on both sides, and joint research, e.g. in smart textiles, should be promoted.

EURATEX welcomes the recent progress in provisionally eliminating additional duties on several American and European products due to the Airbus-Boeing trade dispute. It is a very positive sign that EURATEX would like to highlight in a particularly difficult context for the textile and clothing industry at European, American and even global levels. EURATEX calls on both US and EU institutions to eliminate such duties permanently and build on a common positive agenda for the benefit of EU and US companies and consumers.

EURATEX Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented: "Both the EU and US are developing a new business model for their industry. We should make sure these models can complement and reinforce each other. If not, we risk losing global leadership, not just in terms of market share but also in terms of values and standards."

The new, industrial, entry-level EFI™ Reggiani BLAZE scanning printer from Electronics For Imaging, Inc. is making its debut at the ITMA Asia tradeshow, 12-16 June in Shanghai, China. The high-quality printer is an easy-to-use, smart solution to help textile companies blaze their successful trail into the world of efficient, sustainable industrial inkjet printing. It is equipped with EFI Reggiani’s state-of-the-art technology, offering high quality, reliability and flexibility on the widest variety of designs.

Cutting-edge technology in a compact footprint
The EFI Reggiani BLAZE printer is designed to give textile companies the opportunity to enter the digital textile printing market with a compact solution. The new, 1.8-metre wide printer offers an innovative, low-maintenance, continuous recirculation ink system equipped with a level sensor and degassing as well as a printhead crash protective system for longer printhead life and superior uptime.
 
Thanks to its cutting-edge printhead reliability and low maintenance costs for a competitive TCO (total cost of ownership), the BLAZE printer can produce up to 125 linear metres per hour with a printing resolution up to 600x1200 dots per inch (dpi). The printer – which delivers excellent productivity as one of the fastest digital inkjet solutions in its class – has eight 300-dpi dual channel printheads and can print in up to eight colours with full variable drop size.

Flexible fabric feed and handling for higher productivity
The EFI Reggiani BLAZE is equipped with a continuous and switchable belt washing unit to remove water and fabric hairs. An embedded device for adhesive application offers the possibility to use thermoplastic, resin and permanent adhesives.
 
The printer also includes other features for enhanced productivity and value, including a 400-mm roll unwinder, expandable shafts, an air gun and a pneumatic bar for standard fabrics.

Efficient software and electronics technology
The Reggiani BLAZE printer offers a friendly and intuitive user interface with real-time image processing and flexible queue management. The software also runs a WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get) job editor, as well as tools to accurately predict printing speed and ink usage.

EFI Reggiani TERRA Silver enhancement
EFI has also released an enhanced version of the EFI Reggiani TERRA Silver printer, a 1.8-metre wide printer operating with EFI Reggiani’s unique TERRA pigment ink with binder solution for high-quality, highly sustainable, direct-to-textile printing without steaming or washing.

Features:

• A new recirculating ink system for superior reliability and minimum maintenance at start up and during production
• Several printing modes to ensure maximum flexibility in terms of design capability
• New, real-time image processing that eliminates time spent in image pre-calculations
• A user friendly, intuitive interface
• A more-efficient polymerisation process that takes place as printed textile goes through the printer’s on-board dryer.

Having undergone further development, the new cradle feeder 100 now offers more functions and is even smarter. The cradle feeder 100 comes with an integrated cut-off system, intelligent controls, and smart roll-off features that take textile cutting to new levels of productivity and automation.

Just like its highly successful predecessor, which was introduced in 2017, the cradle feeder 100 is capable of advancing stretch fabrics from rolls completely without tension and resulting distortions. The integrated unwind-control system continuously monitors the rate in which the material is fed onto the cutter and manages that process with even greater precision than the previous model.

At the heart of the technological advances that come with new feeder is the optional integrated cut-off feature. It slices through the material at the end of a marker even while the cutter is still busy cutting. This makes it possible to switch rolls and prepare for the next job without interrupting the production process. Especially for users who frequently need to process short markers, this translates into significant time-savings in job preparation and setup. The cut-off function can be initiated manually by the user or set to occur automatically in the cutter software.

On the occasion of releasing its 2021 Spring Report, EURATEX calls the European Institutions to implement a new Industrial Strategy which will effectively support the European textiles industry. EURATEX welcomes the fact that Textile and Clothing industry is recognised as one of the 14 essential ecosystems of the European economy, but we need to take effective measures to support these sectors, and take into consideration the global dimension.

Economic data for 2020 in EURATEX Spring Report show preoccupying trends. Figures reflect a dramatic contraction in demand and production: EU turnover contracted by -9.3% in textiles (which is in line with the general manufacturing average) and by -17.7% in clothing, compared with 2019. Furthermore, supply chain disruptions and substantial price increases of some raw materials are putting significant pressure on the T&C industries across Europe. The trade deficit for European textiles and clothing jumped from € -47 bln in 2019 to € -62 bln in 2020, an increase of more than 30%, which is almost entirely due to the import of Chinese face masks and related products. Fortunately, more recent figures from the 1st quarter of 2021 indicate some signs of recovery.

That figure illustrates very well today’s political discussions on the future of the European industry. Many European companies have made considerable efforts to adapt their production to the pandemic, but clearly this was not enough. Whether the production cost in Europe is too high or the EU should adapt its procurement rules, the industry needs have a coherent long-term plan to become more competitive and conquer new markets.

EURATEX General Assembly highlighted the critical role of the new EU Industrial Strategy. The inclusion of textiles and clothing in the fourteen ecosystems is a step in the right direction to consolidate the industrial base but we should look also at the global challenges. European companies should continue investing in innovation, design and quality, in combination with a structural move towards more sustainable textiles. At the same time, the EU should create an environment - both inside the Single Market and globally - where everybody plays by the same rules.

There are good reasons why narrow textiles are used so frequently in the fitness and rehabilitation sector: they are flexible, safe, light, durable, skin-friendly and have a low injury potential. Essential components are JUMBO textiles: Elastics can be used to convert kinetic energy into potential energy. This is why elastic cords and cables are some of the essential components of almost all fitness equipment and tools. After all, it is the elasticity of the trampoline cords that gives the jumping-sheet its necessary force. Only elasticated expander cords create the desired resistance of the classic strength training equipment.

The force-elongation ratio of elastic cords and cables – like all other properties – is specified individually and optimally for the respective application. Depending on the specific requirements of the narrow textiles in the respective product, expert teams develop cords and cables made of high-tech fibres and on high-tech equipment: technical textiles that are a perfect fit for the equipment and its functions.

Furthermore, non-elastic cords – depending on type and design – are essential as tension and connection elements for the functionality of fitness equipment. Textile components are often also an integral part of the equipment technology as fastening or fixing systems.

Sappi offers Transjet Tacky Industrial, a coated dye sublimation paper for digital transfer printing, specially developed for high-speed inkjet printing on highly elastic textiles. Also new is the uncoated dye sublimation paper Basejet, which has been developed for light designs for high-speed digital printing of fashion and home textiles.

• Transjet Tacky Industrial: Immediate tack effect, high ink transfer, fast ink drying; no ghosting on elastic textiles thanks to reversible tack
• Basejet: Consistent print quality for light designs, fast ink-drying, very fast transfer process

Transjet Tacky Industrial enables highly elastic fabrics to be printed on industrial high-speed machines that work with a higher glycol content, such as printheads from Kyocera. The paper is first printed with the desired image or pattern which is then transferred to the elastic polyester fabric by means of heat and pressure.

Sublimation paper for the textile industry
The new dye sublimation paper offers many benefits for the textile industry, which frequently has to adapt to changing trends. As it is suitable for use on high-speed digital printers, significantly more designs can be printed in the same time than was previously possible on plotters. Thanks to a special heat-reactive coating, the paper adheres to highly stretchable content, while the reversible tack prevents ghosting and textile shrinkage. Transjet Tacky
Industrial has a high ink load capacity so the print can be better accentuated due to strong colour saturation. The design remains clearly visible when the fabric is stretched to its maximum, which is often the case with sportswear in particular.

Basejet specially for light designs
Sappi has also added the Basejet uncoated dye sublimation paper to its portfolio, an additional solution for the digital printing of fashion and home textiles in consistent print quality. The uncoated dye sublimation paper is intended in particular for light designs and cost-driven production processes.

Ahlstrom-Munksjö has expanded its portfolio of biodegradable and renewable fiber-based solutions for food packaging papers, receiving compostability certification from the Biodegradable Products Institute®.

Continuing to be at the forefront of sustainable product offerings, Ahlstrom-Munksjö’s FluoroFree® and ParaFree® food packaging papers produced in North America are now BPI® certified, in addition to offering multiple sustainability attributes in a single product.  

These certifications facilitate the possibility for Ahlstrom-Munksjö customers, whether converters or brand owners, to achieve their own sustainability goals. By using a scientific process, BPI officially certifies compostable products that meet ASTM D6400 and ASTM D6868 standards for compostability. BPI Certification proves that a material will compost in a commercial composting facility, leaving behind no toxic residue or microplastics.

In addition, Ahlstrom-Munksjö’s ParaFree® Wax Alternative papers have achieved BPI Certifcation; papers manufactured without the addition of paraffin or other petroleum-based materials. ParaFree® products create a more sustainable alternative to this type of widely used quick service restaurant packaging. These products maintain a high-level of performance and are stronger on a pound-for-pound basis, allowing for improved yield and lower transportation costs and reducing its overall impact.

This year, EFI™ Reggiani celebrates 75 years of heritage, innovation and glamour in the textile world. As part of its anniversary celebration, the textile technology innovator is revealing the imminent launch of three new digital textile printers.

Reggiani Tessile – which was one of the largest fabric manufacturing companies in Italy – created the company to meet its needs in machinery development. Then known as Reggiani Macchine, the company grew tremendously over five decades thanks to continuous product innovation and close customer relationships.

From the creation of its first traditional printer to its latest technological innovations, EFI Reggiani’s tradition and dedication to its products have contributed to the global transformation of the textile market. EFI Reggiani solutions are used in high-quality, highly productive operations in all of the world’s major textile manufacturing centres. New EFI Reggiani innovations also help facilitate the spread and localisation of industrial textile manufacturing closer to end users in new geographic markets.

In the growing industrial, entry-level segment of the market, EFI Reggiani is strengthening its multi-pass offering by introducing two new scanning machines, which will help facilitate customers’ needs to manufacture closer to the end consumer. The pair of scanning printers EFI Reggiani is bringing to market in 2021 will enable new customers to take their first steps in industrial textile digital printing.

Kornit Digital, specialised in digital textile printing technology, announces Johannesburg, South Africa-based apparel decorator Vic Bay Apparel has implemented two Kornit Storm HD6 systems for sustainable, single-step production on demand. This installation answers increased demand for small orders and high-colour graphic designs, resulting from a dramatic growth in their e-commerce operation.

Vic Bay Apparel has been a manufacturer, supplier, and wholesaler of basic t-shirts and golf shirts for 25 years, supplying blank apparel to decorators and resellers of promotional clothing. They predominantly service resellers in the tourism, workwear, printing, embroidery, and advertising markets.